You are lying about something...you better hope BMR doesn't sue...I have the kit and it doesn't use allen wrench bolts. Looks like you tried to do a short cut because of the tight installation and used a Allen bolt instead of the hardened steel bolts that comes with the kit.... THAT'S YOUR ERROR NOT BMR.... using weak bolts.. Just because something is metal doesn't mean it's equal in strength.... Use the required strength bolts instead of easier alloy allen wrench bolts.
I think you’re on too something, If you watch the video again… the Allen head bolts are a factory upgrade… and the bushing kit’s supplied bolts are DEFINITELY stronger, I think what’s going on is the bolts were used in the wrong application
i've seen videos of those suckers and the movement is excessive but i suspect ford has allowed for that much movement for a reason. i'm not super impressed with the 2 piece bolt situation. i was gonna see about just filling the voids with window weld like we used to do back in the day.
Bias plys will definitely soak up a lot of that drivetrain shock ad will help prevent part breakage. Radials are a bad idea on manual cars because it’s guaranteed to tear up parts like you did regardless of how much reinforcement you put. Manuals have too much force because you hit the tire hard unlike an auto that can preload the drivetrain before you launch. It’s ok though, it’s racing and stuff happens but yea stay away from radials on stick cars.
I just broke my Steeda bolt on the rear passenger side. Lucky the bolt snapped off in the diff cover. I have a spare.looking at the energy suspension bushings. They replace the factory bushings. Looks like a bitch to remove factory bushings...
You need to replace the entire diff bushing. That means you need to take out the stock setup (many ways to do that some cut the steel sleeve) then get any of the diff bushings offered, BMR or Steeda. The ones you are using are cheap and will not help the problem. My opinion is the bolts will keep breaking at the weak point which is on the threads and at the end of the diff hole. I broke many. After I watch one of the big named companies show how you drill out the threads on the diff and use through bolts and nuts i never broke another. Also no tire hop, added an upgraded adjustable sway bar will top it off.
Upgrade bolt kit?.. wtf are you talking about? The bolt in your hand looks like a Allen wrench bolt used for seats or strut towers... definitely not as strong as the bolts in the kit . Those little bumps on the head of bolts are strength markers there's a reason you don't see them on Allen head bolts THEY'RE SIGNIFICANTLY WEAKER.
Quite a rant on a product, maybe deserved, maybe not. After watching the whole video, including the outtro roll. I noticed something. With all the upgrades to this car (and it a lot), to make 981RWHP/768TO, maybe you have just exceeded the shear strength on those bolts. Might upgrade to titanium bolts?
Happened to my friend practically month layer with his roush blower car, and he made less than 700hp. I also found from reading forums and talking to the techs over at HPJ Performance this mod fails all the time due to the deflection, and their is only 1 way to manage this.
@liquidsmokemustang1537 the BMR kit 050 or the steeda brace, which is way more but doesn't involve cutting out and removing the rear rubber bushings and pressing in the new solid mounts of the BMR kit.
You are lying about something...you better hope BMR doesn't sue...I have the kit and it doesn't use allen wrench bolts. Looks like you tried to do a short cut because of the tight installation and used a Allen bolt instead of the hardened steel bolts that comes with the kit.... THAT'S YOUR ERROR NOT BMR.... using weak bolts.. Just because something is metal doesn't mean it's equal in strength.... Use the required strength bolts instead of easier alloy allen wrench bolts.
I think you’re on too something, If you watch the video again… the Allen head bolts are a factory upgrade… and the bushing kit’s supplied bolts are DEFINITELY stronger, I think what’s going on is the bolts were used in the wrong application
Bmr sells an upgrade hardware kit RH017 and it comes with the Allen bolts
I just got the BMR kit it comes with the upgraded allen bolts, hes not lying, you have the old kit.
i've seen videos of those suckers and the movement is excessive but i suspect ford has allowed for that much movement for a reason. i'm not super impressed with the 2 piece bolt situation. i was gonna see about just filling the voids with window weld like we used to do back in the day.
Bias plys will definitely soak up a lot of that drivetrain shock ad will help prevent part breakage. Radials are a bad idea on manual cars because it’s guaranteed to tear up parts like you did regardless of how much reinforcement you put. Manuals have too much force because you hit the tire hard unlike an auto that can preload the drivetrain before you launch. It’s ok though, it’s racing and stuff happens but yea stay away from radials on stick cars.
I just broke my Steeda bolt on the rear passenger side. Lucky the bolt snapped off in the diff cover. I have a spare.looking at the energy suspension bushings. They replace the factory bushings. Looks like a bitch to remove factory bushings...
Hopefully I'll see you at the next event in October
I still have major boost issues. This is boost weather and I should be boosting 20psi and only boosting 7psi. FML
I wonder if the aluminum inserts would be better? 🤔
I cut out the rub and went with bmr 050 kit. It's completely solid now. Heard those fail as well. Only true fix is what I used.
You need to replace the entire diff bushing. That means you need to take out the stock setup (many ways to do that some cut the steel sleeve) then get any of the diff bushings offered, BMR or Steeda. The ones you are using are cheap and will not help the problem. My opinion is the bolts will keep breaking at the weak point which is on the threads and at the end of the diff hole. I broke many. After I watch one of the big named companies show how you drill out the threads on the diff and use through bolts and nuts i never broke another. Also no tire hop, added an upgraded adjustable sway bar will top it off.
did you use the BMR supplied bolts or something else?
Yes I did
Upgrade bolt kit?.. wtf are you talking about? The bolt in your hand looks like a Allen wrench bolt used for seats or strut towers... definitely not as strong as the bolts in the kit . Those little bumps on the head of bolts are strength markers there's a reason you don't see them on Allen head bolts THEY'RE SIGNIFICANTLY WEAKER.
Quite a rant on a product, maybe deserved, maybe not. After watching the whole video, including the outtro roll. I noticed something. With all the upgrades to this car (and it a lot), to make 981RWHP/768TO, maybe you have just exceeded the shear strength on those bolts. Might upgrade to titanium bolts?
Happened to my friend practically month layer with his roush blower car, and he made less than 700hp. I also found from reading forums and talking to the techs over at HPJ Performance this mod fails all the time due to the deflection, and their is only 1 way to manage this.
@@TheHotSauceGT350 And what’s the fix? I’m not running this kind of power but, if/when I upgrade, I certainly wouldn’t want that kind of failure.
@liquidsmokemustang1537 the BMR kit 050 or the steeda brace, which is way more but doesn't involve cutting out and removing the rear rubber bushings and pressing in the new solid mounts of the BMR kit.
@@TheHotSauceGT350 Did you run the Steeda subframe brace or bmr irs support bars along with these diff bushings?
@@TroyRossberg BMR subframe brace.
Well those bushings look sus to me brand new. 😊not solid urethane will hold.
The new stuff looks nice
My BMR kit has snapped twice.
What were you doing? Mine sounds like absolute shit
Biase ply what a weight difference 😊