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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2024
- Hydraulic Lifter Preload Explained & Different Types of Lifters in a engine. How much adjustment needed to the rocker nut 1/2, 3/4, or 1 Turn? Also in this video you'll see the difference between a hydraulic lifter and a solid lifter and the different types of lifters. Heat expansion is also a consideration in engine lash but varies in different applications and materials such as aluminum heads or cast iron.
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Video Chapters
0:05 How to Determine Hydraulic Lifter Pre-Load (Preload)
0:40 Disassemble Hydraulic Lifter
1:35 Measuring Hydraulic Lifter Plunger Travel
1:50 Parts of a Hydraulic Lifter
2:40 Measuring Plunger Travel with Spring in
3:10 How Much Turning Rocker Nut Moves The Plunger (per Thousandths Of An Inch)
3:40 Different Lifter Types Shown
4:30 A Couple of NASCAR Lifters
Find me on Instagram, Twitter @DHammiam
#HydraulicLifter #Preload #Engine - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Great video. Great demonstration and very helpful info. Thanks for making and posting 👍
Thank you, I appreciate that. Thanks for watching also. I’m working on more information type videos
Not many of us see inside these parts. Good visual demonstration. Great job hubby!
Thanks. I try to think about having access to a good view that most don’t have especially when the engine is in a vehicle
Good information!
Thank you. I appreciate that and for watching. I have so many video ideas, I just need more time 😅
What should my intake and exhaust lash be on my 454big block .030 over with aftermarket cam and what I believe are solid roller lifters
Thanks in advance
Jack from Rhoads Lifters also recommends 3/4 turn past zero lash for his original design.
Man this is gold, i can basically use this to dial in pushrod length on a harley? I just determine the measurement between the halfway point and the top in my lifter then add that to the length between the top of the pumped up lifter and the rocker arm with the head seated and TDC of compression? Using adjustable pushrods
Thanks! Yes that should be correct to figure out pushrod length. I’m not sure how much the Harley expands with heat though so account for that some
I kind of starting to understand pump up.
You said this lifter is a ELGHL-1817-16. So its an Elgin lifter. I‘ve got the exact same lifter from Qualcast. All of these lifters are reboxed, i know. But does these particular lifters work well in your engine? The internals of these looks very similar to the old Stanadyne design with check valve plates instead a check ball, and the stamped „C“ oil metering valve…
They do work well. I've never had any issues from them. I probably could have left the part number off the video but someone would ask I'm sure. Actually the lifter I took apart was an original from the 1964 327.
I’m doing a 350 build with a set of Johnson flat tappets & stock stamped steel rocker arms. The plunger travel is .140 & a complete turn of the adjuster is .070 in case anyone needs to know.
Thank you for the information
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My son spent $6k on a SBC about 6-7 years ago. Of course he can't find and documents and the speed shop says they don't keep build sheets!
So, with the intake of and some light, can I tell if they installed hydraulic or solid lifters? Mind you, I can't get any rocker to move on base cam circle but it has the lock nut / set screw on the rockers. He has ticking noise I guess.
I spent almost 40 years at a dealer, not building engines?
I am not taking the install of this SBC because I have other things to do as winter comes and I recover from back surgery #7.
DK, ASE master tech since 78.
You can tell if there is lash on each valve when the cam is on the base circle. Use a feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve tip or just feel and see if there is lash. If there is and you can’t force the lifter to collapse with using a larger gauge then it must be. If you’re able to keep putting thicker and thicker feeler gauges in then that looks like hydraulic lifters
@@dhammiam You are right, I got my fiber optic on a light inside the valley and the lifter has a "C-Clip" not the retaining wire clip. My son lost all his cam card & paper work as the short block was done at a Speed Shop 26 miles north of Omaha. They said they don't have his 2008-2010 file of build sheet. They have the 1.52 rockers with allan head lock screw and I have SnapOn sets of "Go, No-Go" feeler blades. I just no the proper comp cam lash setting! If too tight, it can burn an exhaust valve. Plug 5 spark plugs where loose, timing off, AFB needs choke set then fast idle cam adjusted and "Then" set air / fuel. This is a car you chain, lock the hood and keep the key.
Plus, I just had back surgery 10 days ago, another pair of electrodes inside the epidural space, now on right side works as left does nothing. Last Dec, Jan and now. Doc say a lot of scar tissue! Douuh!
Not without pulling the Head if it's tapping though that's all you need to know the heads have to come off regardless tear it down and up top end internals. Or ship it to me
@@oscarlandag1831 Thanks, but after identifying the solid lifters, I used my SnapOn set of go-no/go feeler blades and if memory serves me, I went 0.08" on intakes and 0.10" on exhaust. Anyone on TH-cam that had a method for adjusting solid lifters used these specs. I inspected the plugs, adjusted timing with my dial-advance, set idle as low as I could get it, set A/F just until RPM's dropped, then backed out 1/2 turn rich. Runs quit and screams like a true American Eagle. I'm just glad I don't have to buy tires. He is happy yet has a quick temper and abrasive personality as I had my first of 3 lumbar surgeries after he was born and found this 10lb kid at 21" hard to hold and later harder to kept fed. God bless everyone and merry Christmas (12/24/2022) as we zoom toward 2023. This is when we get flying cars and robot maids to prepare dinner by pushing buttons! No...Wait? That was George Jetson! Sorry you all!
Stay safe and call the ones you care. DK, ASE master, retired.
(I can't afford to buy a new intake valve from Rock Auto much less sent out the heads. It is my son's 500HP beast, not mine! But thanks! I have all "Nu-Way" tungsten carbide cutters in 4 boxes. They work best!
Sounds like you did a perfect job 👍 Happy New year to ya make 2023 great. Someday the Jetsons predictions will be reality, flying cars and all. Take care
It's not rocket science but it is rocker science
I like that! 😂
These "c stamped metering disk" type of lifter internals have given me the most issues/collapsed lifters ... i avoid them like the pfizer jab😂
I avoided the jab too but hindsight maybe I should avoid these lifters as well
I came across two sets of 8 genuine Ford lifters so I bought the two sets of 8 for my next engine build. One set is from 1986, those have the check ball, the other set is from 2006, those have the check disc. I get the feeling the check ball is more reliable for quiet operation. Both sets are hard as a rock and correctly ground on the lifter faces though. My current engine I put a Comp XE250H and the matching lifters, I am pretty sure those are the check disc type, nosiest pieces of shit on startup I've ever heard but they get quiet within a minute of run time in the winter and summer time they usually don't make any noise at all. Really tired of hearing that after 11 years of having that cam installed. I have another Comp XE262H in a 390 with the matching lifters and those never make any noise at all except the first second or two on startup after sitting a week. Those are also check disc. Not sure whats up with the 2012-2013 Comp high energy lifters.
Too much to blead down. Adjust 1/4 turn up from the bottom, that way you get no pump up and the lifter gets filled instantly at start up.
So, it's a little bit like a solid lifter, right ?
That's right, instead of a tight lash you get a true anti pump up.@@angerx4