I can't thank you enough for this video. The knowledge of experienced gentlemen like yourself is what TH-cam needs more of. I'm hoping you just saved my biscuits with my jammed up 3/4" chuck. THANK YOU!!!!!
Hello Sir. I would like to thank you for your great information you provided. You are the only person who has a video on taking apart a chunk and with it I was able to completely restore a rusted out chuck. It is now very smooth and feels new! I used a bearing puller and a bench vise to get it done. have a great day and God bless!
Cheers mate, you just saved my skin! I was half way through a job and an hour outside of town. For anyone struggling with this, I use a steel pipe and lump hammer (no hydraulic press). When you go to put it back together, I struggled to get it to press on in line. I just kept at it and it straightened itself up.
I watched another video where the guy said leave the teeth stick out so they don't get caught and crack the housing, then I see you video and decided to try it, well the tooth caught. Buying a new chuck now.
Really had to beat the snot out of it to get the two pieces apart, but I won in the end. Some of the teeth when broken on one of the jaws. Got it cleaned up and ready for new grease tomorrow. Fingers crossed! Thanks again for the video.
Very good and straightforward tutorial. I'm fixing up an old delta benchtop model and the drill works great,but the chuck is tough to open and close. Hopefully I can get the chuck off and get it apart. I dont have a press or anything if it's to seized on.
Hey Pineknot, Very helpfull vidio, I got a Jacobs # 36B Chuck, 3/4" capacity to put on my Champion # 200 post drill. I had to get my Brother to maker me an arbor to fit the old style chuck on the drill. But the chuck was turning kinda hard in spots so I knew it had to have some grit up in it but did'nt know how to take it apart, So I'll give her a good cleaning and see if that works! Thanks and take care!
Really! Your video gave the what I beeded to tear into that sucker! Found out that the sleeve was/is cracked. Not sure if it was cracked when I got there or I did it myself. Come to find out, you DO need to run the jaws down a little. when pressing that sleeve. I had them all the way up and chipped a couple of teeth. No biggie, until I had to drive them out of the chuck body. Then it was 3 hours of cautiously filing the gouges from those 3 bores. WOW! That was testing :-) Later man! & thanks again G50
Do all Keyed Chucks come apart like the one that you are showing? I've got an old 1938 Boice Crane Drill Press with a Jacobs 1/2" Keyed Chuck that needs to be removed from the spindle and cleaned up. Will it come apart the same way as this one? Thanks for any help. Greg
As far as I am aware all keyed chucks come apart this way, however I have never worked on a ball bearing chuck. I have no reason to beleave that it would be different. If for some reason you want to remove it from the quill or what ever adaptor it is using be sure to look on the chuck to see how it is attached. Some chucks are friction fit to a taper such as a Morse or Jacobs, others may the threaded. Some will even have a screw inside holding it on. If you open up the chuck to its widest point you may be able to see it it does or not. If it is on a taper they sell special little shim type tools to help take it off the taper. Unless you want to get rid of the chuck you won't have to remove it from the adaptor. Just take it apart as shown. I hope this helps.
pineknot42 Hey pineknot, thanks for the help. My chuck is a Jacobs 1/2" 6A-33 which of course means it is a 6A type chuck and has a 33 taper. This chuck can be either knocked or pressed onto a 33 tapered arbor. In my case, the arbor is the end of the drill press spindle. Not sure about the ball bearings in them. I have seen some original "new old stock" re-build kits for this series chuck on ebay that were pretty cheap. They had the threaded jaws and the 2 rings, might be something for me to keep in mind. These old U.S.A. made chucks were really well made, and precise too. Can't beat 'em. Thanks again, Greg
I don't know why you had the trouble. Some of the chucks can be a little tight. About your vise. I used to have a made in China vise and I was hammering something on the jaws and sheared off the screws that hold the jaws on. I don't know if this is what happened or not. If it is and you can get the screw out go to a fastener place or to Tractor Supply and get some grade 8 screws to put in. They are a lot stronger and should not shear as easy. Sorry for not getting back sooner. Out of town.
'tsokay and nah i was using a planetary gear from an automatic tranny as a piece to hold the lip, anvilled by the sidewalk, and with the jaws all the way in on the chuck,i couldnt secure a punch in the jaws LOOSELY to help. and i rigged up a thing so that i could use my cheap-a vise as a press, i had to use a pipe on the turner thing (lol) and still, all that gave was, (drum roll please lmfao) ...the threads that hold the forcing screw....
Not sure I understand what you mean. If you are talking about the drill motor, the only thing in there that favors charcoal are the brushes, Should be two of them. You can buy them in several places.
pineknot42 They are actually called brushes. Look in the town you are in or near you for someplace that repairs small motors such as what you have. Try to get the exact size that you have. Some have electrical wiring made into them and some do not. If you can't get the exact size try to get as close as you can. If the ones you get are a little over size get a piece of emory cloth, 240 or close, and place the emory cloth or sand paper if you can't find emory cloth on a flat surface and carefully slide the brush back and forth over the emory cloth to bring it down to the size you need. Use care not to break or damage the wiring coming out of the brush. Be sure to clean the commutator where the brushes ride. Also take a piece of metal that will fit the grooves in the commutator and clean those too, just enough to make sure there is nothing sticking above the commutator. Hope this helps.
I can't thank you enough for this video. The knowledge of experienced gentlemen like yourself is what TH-cam needs more of. I'm hoping you just saved my biscuits with my jammed up 3/4" chuck. THANK YOU!!!!!
Hello Sir. I would like to thank you for your great information you provided. You are the only person who has a video on taking apart a chunk and with it I was able to completely restore a rusted out chuck. It is now very smooth and feels new! I used a bearing puller and a bench vise to get it done. have a great day and God bless!
Cheers mate, you just saved my skin! I was half way through a job and an hour outside of town. For anyone struggling with this, I use a steel pipe and lump hammer (no hydraulic press). When you go to put it back together, I struggled to get it to press on in line. I just kept at it and it straightened itself up.
I watched another video where the guy said leave the teeth stick out so they don't get caught and crack the housing, then I see you video and decided to try it, well the tooth caught.
Buying a new chuck now.
Really had to beat the snot out of it to get the two pieces apart, but I won in the end. Some of the teeth when broken on one of the jaws. Got it cleaned up and ready for new grease tomorrow. Fingers crossed! Thanks again for the video.
Very good and straightforward tutorial. I'm fixing up an old delta benchtop model and the drill works great,but the chuck is tough to open and close. Hopefully I can get the chuck off and get it apart. I dont have a press or anything if it's to seized on.
thanks my granddad gave a big drill press to my dad but now its stuck ! i think it need some tlc and this video is what i need to do it for him
I am glad it was of help to you.
Very helpful video. This man is very smart. He speaks my language with the details. Thank You sir!
Sounds like you did a great job. I too have had to use some, friendly persuasion, to take some apart.
Thanks, Sorry I don't get on here alot. I enjoy seeing info that others have. No need reinventing the wheel.
Thank you Sir. You got me thru an old 16N and its working pretty good now.
Hey Pineknot, Very helpfull vidio, I got a Jacobs # 36B Chuck, 3/4" capacity to put on my Champion # 200 post drill. I had to get my Brother to maker me an arbor to fit the old style chuck on the drill. But the chuck was turning kinda hard in spots so I knew it had to have some grit up in it but did'nt know how to take it apart, So I'll give her a good cleaning and see if that works! Thanks and take care!
Thank you so much for your time and consideration
Thanks! Ready to take apart & clean out the "drag" area in my 33 Jacobs now.
Glad you liked it and it helped..A lot on here have really helped me. As you can see I don't check my mail a lot.
Thanks again
Really! Your video gave the what I beeded to tear into that sucker! Found out that the sleeve was/is cracked. Not sure if it was cracked when I got there or I did it myself. Come to find out, you DO need to run the jaws down a little. when pressing that sleeve. I had them all the way up and chipped a couple of teeth. No biggie, until I had to drive them out of the chuck body. Then it was 3 hours of cautiously filing the gouges from those 3 bores. WOW! That was testing :-)
Later man! & thanks again
G50
thanks, that should help me fix my chuck which has jammed.
Thanks I will now take apart and clean my chuck
great video thanks for sharing, i have junked some chucks because i didn't no how to get them apart thanks godbless
Thanks, this really helps a bunch. Good video!
Precise and clear, thanks.
Very informative. Thanks!
Most Helpful, Thank You.
Thanks for the good comments. As you can tell I don't check on here to often.
Thanks! Big help for me. Appreciate it!
Nice job, I appreciate it!
whats the different between bearing chuck and other kind of chucks ?
Thanks for the video
Thank you sir.
good video thank you
Do all Keyed Chucks come apart like the one that you are showing? I've got an old 1938 Boice Crane Drill Press with a Jacobs 1/2" Keyed Chuck that needs to be removed from the spindle and cleaned up. Will it come apart the same way as this one?
Thanks for any help. Greg
As far as I am aware all keyed chucks come apart this way, however I have never worked on a ball bearing chuck. I have no reason to beleave that it would be different. If for some reason you want to remove it from the quill or what ever adaptor it is using be sure to look on the chuck to see how it is attached. Some chucks are friction fit to a taper such as a Morse or Jacobs, others may the threaded. Some will even have a screw inside holding it on. If you open up the chuck to its widest point you may be able to see it it does or not. If it is on a taper they sell special little shim type tools to help take it off the taper. Unless you want to get rid of the chuck you won't have to remove it from the adaptor. Just take it apart as shown. I hope this helps.
pineknot42 Hey pineknot, thanks for the help. My chuck is a Jacobs 1/2" 6A-33 which of course means it is a 6A type chuck and has a 33 taper. This chuck can be either knocked or pressed onto a 33 tapered arbor. In my case, the arbor is the end of the drill press spindle. Not sure about the ball bearings in them. I have seen some original "new old stock" re-build kits for this series chuck on ebay that were pretty cheap. They had the threaded jaws and the 2 rings, might be something for me to keep in mind. These old U.S.A. made chucks were really well made, and precise too. Can't beat 'em.
Thanks again,
Greg
pineknot42 glad I could help. A lot of the time the older equipment is better than the new.
+pineknot42 thank you very much I needed to know this.
this makes sense and i tried it for a small 110 v drill chuck, but i f***ked up my bench vise and it didnt budge, WHY?!!?!
I don't know why you had the trouble. Some of the chucks can be a little tight. About your vise. I used to have a made in China vise and I was hammering something on the jaws and sheared off the screws that hold the jaws on. I don't know if this is what happened or not. If it is and you can get the screw out go to a fastener place or to Tractor Supply and get some grade 8 screws to put in. They are a lot stronger and should not shear as easy. Sorry for not getting back sooner. Out of town.
'tsokay and nah i was using a planetary gear from an automatic tranny as a piece to hold the lip, anvilled by the sidewalk, and with the jaws all the way in on the chuck,i couldnt secure a punch in the jaws LOOSELY to help. and i rigged up a thing so that i could use my cheap-a vise as a press, i had to use a pipe on the turner thing (lol) and still, all that gave was, (drum roll please lmfao) ...the threads that hold the forcing screw....
pineknot42 Glad you had success. Sometimes they can really be a bear.
thanks
What is the small charcoal component in drills that runs out called?
Not sure I understand what you mean. If you are talking about the drill motor, the only thing in there that favors charcoal are the brushes, Should be two of them. You can buy them in several places.
pineknot42 yes that's it dose anyone know the name
pineknot42 They are actually called brushes. Look in the town you are in or near you for someplace that repairs small motors such as what you have. Try to get the exact size that you have. Some have electrical wiring made into them and some do not. If you can't get the exact size try to get as close as you can. If the ones you get are a little over size get a piece of emory cloth, 240 or close, and place the emory cloth or sand paper if you can't find emory cloth on a flat surface and carefully slide the brush back and forth over the emory cloth to bring it down to the size you need. Use care not to break or damage the wiring coming out of the brush. Be sure to clean the commutator where the brushes ride. Also take a piece of metal that will fit the grooves in the commutator and clean those too, just enough to make sure there is nothing sticking above the commutator. Hope this helps.