Buying another broken Range Rover p38 Unseen. Will it drive home????
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2024
- This range rover p38 came up for sale on FB market place due to having a slipped liner. It will need a new engine for sure but will it drive home?
Have a listen to the engine and see what you think?
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Nice little channel. Anyone who’s helping to save these old range rovers or anything Land Rover is alright in my book!
Thank you, I know a few us doing it, Its bit of fun and rewarding at the end
Proud owner of a 97 P38
Have an L405 these days but still think the P38 was the best looking RR ever. Maybe not the most reliable but gorgeous.
P.S I don't think P38 are expensive to maintain, it's the titillating and upgrading which costs the money..... unless you need to replace the engine? Never had a 4.6, only later 4.0 and diesels. I have owned RR for 30 years, 3 door and classic plus several Discos and gaylanders, would never go back to Series ownership, big pair of "rose tinted" needed for those!
I’m currently enjoying my Disco 2 V8, but love the look of the P38 and L322 Range Rovers…one day perhaps.
Tappers has same on mine so redid cams new lifters etc
Turned out to be a broken rocker shaft
I picked up a 99 2.5 a few weeks back for £500 in Oslo blue. Currently working my way through the car, mostly future proofing rather than fixing. This will be number five, I have an L322 4.4 V8 as my daily which will probably go to the grave with me. My CEO seems to be cool with me buying anything LR even though, unknown to her, they relieve the Kid's College fund on a regular basis, nope, that's a lie, I find them easier to work on, cheaper for parts and on the whole more reliable than the family cars currently in the fleet. Chrysler 300c touring... front suspension is knocking, fuel lift pump is whining and recently sorted ABS sensor has gone again, Wifey's Mazda 6 has a grinding and knocking noise due to our bloody awful roads out here in the sticks and keeps bottoming out due to low ground clearance.... can't wait to get the P38 into service!
Just love the P38, I have the Gems Engine in mine with top hat linners now
The gold one is a Gems, I do prefer the Gems to the Thor. Where did you get your Top Hat out of interest?
@LandyManLewis I used Tuener Engineer for the rebuild, but not 100% happy with the rebuild, but that is a long story. All sorted now and runs like a dream
@@LandyManLewis But the Gems don't have the full diagnostics in the socket under the dash, so you can't easily plug in a normal little gadget and read off or cancel the faults (I've got three cheap ones and they don't work). And that's the problem I have.
Thats only downside but I think thats the same for the thor as well, luckily the Nanocom does both and you can drill down to all the info you need but they come with a heavy price tag.
Interesting , thanks a lot landy man
Mine sounded very similar to that and was diagnosed as a worn cam.
A fantastic buy. Mine went the same way, but would guzzle coolant. I stripped the engine and got the block top hatted by V8 Developments (who are a cracking bunch), runs a treat now. I'd be interested to hear what the centre box delete sounds like as id like to get a bit more noise from my exhaust system, but without being offensive or chavvy! 😂
My friend used V8 developments as well and was very pleased with the service. I will get some video's for you once the engine is fixed :) however I find the center box delete a bit much so I might put a standard box back in. Thank you for your comment.
I bought one with centre box delete and also found it a bit too noisy and replaced it
Its a lovely color
I haven't seen one in that colour, I bet it will look good with a good polish
@@LandyManLewis same here, makes the p38 look pretty modern, specially with the painted bumpers. Till you see the little screens ahha, you gonna have to shows the playstation, thats pretry cool
@moomoo_mootorsports I will, I think I still have some old Play Station games somewhere. I will keep you posted on the progress.
Check the rocker shaft hasn't snapped, had the same issue on mine, the oil pipe gets blocked and the shaft fails.
@stevenjones4521 oh good shout, he did say when he changed the oil for the first time the oil was like mud,
That’s the tappers worn or broken
Nice colour of that p38 whats the name of that blue
Its one I haven't seen before, its Caledonian Blue
When the manifold blows they often sound like this. Any loss in power?
Hiya. I have had that before but this is a bit more serious, it's metalic sound and down on power. Be interesting to see what it is
New to channel. Do you have any experience with the P38 1996 Gems SRS. fault reset tools? Thinking about getting one and would like to confirm tool compatibility and function for the most reasonable cost. I am hoping you have some info or threads to some one. Thank you. WCW
Hi WCW, the only tool I have used to read and reset the SRS light is my NANOCOM, I don't know anyone else who has tried other tools I am afraid. if you have a fault have you checked the little yellow connectors under the seat, that's a really common issue.
I've used my Hawkeye to reset SRS faults, you need a separate dongle with the Hawkeye to connect to the OBD port on my 2000 model, Hawkeye will read the codes then take it from there. mine were due to one of the SRS warnings bulbs had blown in the dash, there are two bulbs easy fix, four years later was open circuit driver air bag, common enough, remove the knee panel find the yellow connector for the air bag, discount and clean with electrical terminal cleaning spray lube, leave to dry for a while and reconnect, I cleared the code with the reader, but from memory if it's happy after cycling the ignition and running the engine it might clear of the dash, but hold it as an historical in memory, number of months later still fault clear.
I went on a date as I was looking for a new wife, as I lost mine to cancer (wives are important to have) and my P38 started to sound like your car outside the pub where I met her (No. 130something). I tried to laugh off the loud rattling and misfire and went inside and chatted for an hour or so. After my date had left (she wasn't suitable wife material), I went outside to have a good look at the car but couldn't find anything obviously -wrong, like a plug cap had fallen off. So I drove off slowly and later took it to a garage, as I didn't have time to strip it down myself. They took off the rocker cover on the offending bank and found the rocker shaft had snapped in half! I had never heard of that happening before and nor had the garage. So at least one of the cylinders wasn't firing as the rockers weren't doing their job and the valves weren't opening and shutting properly! I got a good 2nd hand one and they fitted it and the car's been fine (engine wise) ever since. However, I still can't get it through the MOT because of the frickin safety systems and sensors all over it and dash warning lights showing and the car locking and unlocking throughout the night and horn blaring randomly sometimes as I drive it. So, I have it insured and just drive locally around the country lanes and still love it.
Thanks for your comment, sorry to hear about your wife. typical the P38 always develops faults when you least expect it and the most inappropriate timing! Least you could have said you couldn't pay for the meal/date as you need to have the car fixed :) But on a serious note a few people here have mentioned a snapped rocker so when the weather improves will be interesting to see.
swap the drivers door latch mechanism to solve the locking and unlocking
@@stevel9914 Thanks a lot Steve, but I've done that twice already, using locks from scrapped cars. I've cleaned all connectors to it and the door outstation and changed the volumetric sensor above the interior mirror. When it rains the water drips from the interior light fitting onto the centre console gear selector and heater controls, but I don't see how these things would make it lock and unlock. Most recently, the door lock motor has stated to whirr when I try to lock the car and the button doesn't go down anymore, so I can't manually lock the car and worse still, I can't use the EKA code to get in anymore, as, turning the door key does nothing now. Any other ideas would be welcome, please!