Looking good! They do make HO code-70 track to model less traveled track. (Spurs, branch-lines, etc.) Another option, to get the same look, is to remove some of the ties and space out the remaining ties, unevenly, on code-83 track.
@JosephMusgrove The customized code 83 might be the way to go, as I have a lot of it available. We'll see where we are when we get building on the High Line!
Very nice update, neat to see all the benchwork. On the BN Minnesota Division I used 5/16” plywood with cork roadbed on the main level. I Wouldn’t recommend doing it again…. But it does give a look of natural terrain as the roadbed follows or has been raised on smaller depressions . Nice looking FOBNR car!
Very nice. Many of the techniques you are using are the same that I am using. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing the progress on your layout.
You are doing a great job on your layout. I am doing HO Montana rail link 18 x15 in my garage, right now I am working on the yard on the south end. I,ve got my layout broken in to 4 districts we have classes on how to do things like wiring mountains, laying track and switches. In my there will be someone to show how to sculpt mountains. I go my the ( MRL man ) Neil schwerdt in west valley city Utah. But you are doing a nice job 😊
@neilschwerdt3493 Thanks for checking in, Neil! MRL is a fallen flag now! I've always liked that line and the BN heritage behind it. Sounds like you are doing excellent work there in UT. Helping others learn and enjoy the hobby. Did you mean to say that you also have a social media presence somewhere?
Commercial track for HO comes in 100, 83, and 70. If you want to hand lay a siding or some abandoned track, most modern profile wheels should run on code 55. Code 40 would be pushing your luck due to the spike heads, but you could use PC board ties to maintain gauge and visual tricks to suggest spikes - the old "looks good from 3 feet away" rule. AnyRail is the planning software I just (like in this month "just") opted for. It's easy to learn, has a full selection of track components in all scales. It's free if using under 50 pieces of track - $59 for the paid version. I wanted something cheat-proof (vs paper and pencil) but I have no desire to spend hours or days or weeks learning a complex CAD program. Been there, did that decades ago, and not eager to revisit those memories. Maybe someday for 3D printing, but not today.
It would be a blast to hand lay a short length of track on a branch line spur! Might have to look into code 70. Your timing on mentioning anyrail is perfect because that is on of my primary candidates that I will ask about in the next video. I have exactly zero CAD experience, but have self taught on many other types of applications software. Perhaps no 100% proficient but pretty dangerous!
THANKYOU FOR DETAIL VIDEO AS GREAT WATCHING GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PLAN THERE USED SMALL V ROUNT BIT MAKE LOWER PART INEXT TRACK LOOK LIKE BUILIT LAND NEXT TRACK FROM AUSTRALIA
Great minds think alike, right? The halfway drywall serves a purpose in the partition walls, to allow air movement back into the far reaches of the layout. And to save money and time!
Congrats on the layout. Just a few comments. Use DCC friendly turnouts. If you don't you'll regret it. Use circuit breakers to protect your DCC system. Ensure that you can reach all track otherwise you'll have problems. Have fun.
Yes on all those counts! I was admonished to keep my reach-in at 24 inches max. DCC turnouts for sure. Plan on using a lot of Tortoise machines. Thinking of using Frog juicers on the main level as we're going to lack space to install Tortoise machines. Breakers... How about a PM42?
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroad I use NCE wireless with Tony's PSX breakers. You look as if you plan on having a lot of turnouts so I'd recommend considering the Fast Tracks turnouts to save $$$. I built 105 to replace the non DCC friendly turnouts. I was a novice to start but was able to build 5 in a day (over 8 hours). At the end of the day, I vowed to never do that again until 2 days later when I repeated everything in one hour less. My turnouts are hand thrown using Caboose throws. Keeping everything within 2 feet is very practical. You may not need to power your frogs if your locos have all wheel pickup. Track cleaning is important. I use no-ox and wish that I'd had it 50 years ago. Use metal wheels on your rolling stock and weigh your cars following the NMRA standards. The metal wheels track better and seem to help keep the track cleaner. My track is all code 83. Wireless DCC allows for walk around operation which allows you to use manual turnout control. My layout is 2 level in a 26 x 20 room. I use a helix which goes around my furnace & water heater with each loop 30 ft and a grade of 1%. My helix is double track. I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba. My e-mail is ddownie@shaw.ca and my name is Dave Downie. Best regards.
@@cprtrain Thank you for the encouragement and thoughtful response, Dave! I'll be slowing way down on the switch use going forward on the main and upper deck, using code 83 switches. I should be in good hands there. Plan on using Caboose Industries ground throws also. The rest of this stuff is good best practices. Majority of my railcars have some kind of metal wheels under them. I have a buddy who is an Intermountain dealer. Even if he wasn't, their 36" wheels would be my favorite. Mostly properly weighted (NMRA-ish) cars. I'm fussy about couplers - Kadee only if I can help it. You are just up the road from us! I assume from your handle and location that you must be a CP fan. Have been noticing them some more lately after seeing that series on CP in BC and Alberta. Beautiful! Would love to explore more of Canada if we ever get time!
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroad Try to catch CP's 2816 on its way to Mexico. I'm hoping to catch the Big Boy if and when it travels east. I use Intermountain wheels (33") exclusively. I'm first generation diesels circa 1959. I model the CPR but do have a few friends who model the "other" Canadian RR. I'm still trying to convert them .
@cprtrain Unfortunately the closest the CP 2816 will be to me is five hrs away on a day that I have to work!!! I got a charge out of your 'other' Canadian railroad comment. I'm not a fan either. Their paint schemes have been amazing over the years. But that stunt they pulled with the KCS a few years ago was not great. I've come to feel more kinship with the CP guys than any other outfit in Canada. Although I will always bleed green!!!
@stevedrake36 Thanks Steve! No 2x4s in the layout construction itself. I used some 1x4s under the Sioux City yard, mainly because they were leftovers from another project. The rest of the open grid is cheap pine 1x3s. May even use 1x2s on the main level. Most of the gusset support members are salvaged 1x2s from another guys layout.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice video thanks for sharing looks great 😊😊👍👍👍
Thanks!!!
Looking good! They do make HO code-70 track to model less traveled track. (Spurs, branch-lines, etc.) Another option, to get the same look, is to remove some of the ties and space out the remaining ties, unevenly, on code-83 track.
@JosephMusgrove The customized code 83 might be the way to go, as I have a lot of it available. We'll see where we are when we get building on the High Line!
Very nice update, neat to see all the benchwork. On the BN Minnesota Division I used 5/16” plywood with cork roadbed on the main level. I Wouldn’t recommend doing it again…. But it does give a look of natural terrain as the roadbed follows or has been raised on smaller depressions .
Nice looking FOBNR car!
Thanks for noticing the FOBNR car, John! I've tried to work with that thin plywood before. It never ends well on a model railroad!!!
Great update. It’s really coming along.
Thanks Derek! Progress might be a little exadurated, but I hope to have a burst of neew benchwork after I get all the Tortoise machines in!
Dig the LEGO T! Layout looking good.
thank you sir! Milo and I got matching shirts last summer. We probably should do a video of us and the Galaxy Cruiser one of these next times!
Thanks for sharing. Good luck on your project!
@georgejetson4378 Thank you George!
Very nice. Many of the techniques you are using are the same that I am using. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing the progress on your layout.
@johnbanicki7232 Certainly! The old tried and true methods. I'm looking forward to progress too! Thank you for watching, John!
You are doing a great job on your layout.
I am doing HO Montana rail link 18 x15 in my garage, right now I am working on the yard on the south end.
I,ve got my layout broken in to 4 districts we have classes on how to do things like wiring mountains, laying track and switches.
In my there will be someone to show how to sculpt mountains.
I go my the ( MRL man ) Neil schwerdt in west valley city Utah.
But you are doing a nice job 😊
@neilschwerdt3493 Thanks for checking in, Neil! MRL is a fallen flag now! I've always liked that line and the BN heritage behind it. Sounds like you are doing excellent work there in UT. Helping others learn and enjoy the hobby. Did you mean to say that you also have a social media presence somewhere?
Amazing tshirt!!
I got them from a tshirt vendor on ebay. They came in many colors, same as the plastic minifigs... agonizing choice. Settled on blue for Milo and i.
Very nice video! 100° F to 15° F and up to 100 % humidity here in NE Georgia.
Sounds like a good testbed for the dead rail concept!!!
Commercial track for HO comes in 100, 83, and 70. If you want to hand lay a siding or some abandoned track, most modern profile wheels should run on code 55. Code 40 would be pushing your luck due to the spike heads, but you could use PC board ties to maintain gauge and visual tricks to suggest spikes - the old "looks good from 3 feet away" rule.
AnyRail is the planning software I just (like in this month "just") opted for. It's easy to learn, has a full selection of track components in all scales. It's free if using under 50 pieces of track - $59 for the paid version. I wanted something cheat-proof (vs paper and pencil) but I have no desire to spend hours or days or weeks learning a complex CAD program. Been there, did that decades ago, and not eager to revisit those memories. Maybe someday for 3D printing, but not today.
It would be a blast to hand lay a short length of track on a branch line spur! Might have to look into code 70.
Your timing on mentioning anyrail is perfect because that is on of my primary candidates that I will ask about in the next video. I have exactly zero CAD experience, but have self taught on many other types of applications software. Perhaps no 100% proficient but pretty dangerous!
THANKYOU FOR DETAIL VIDEO AS GREAT WATCHING
GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PLAN THERE
USED SMALL V ROUNT BIT MAKE LOWER PART INEXT TRACK LOOK LIKE BUILIT LAND NEXT TRACK
FROM AUSTRALIA
@rjl110919581 Thank you for watching! Love hearing from friends far and wide!
I like the wall construction, with just the top half drywalled. Done the same way as how I did it.
Great minds think alike, right? The halfway drywall serves a purpose in the partition walls, to allow air movement back into the far reaches of the layout. And to save money and time!
Congrats on the layout. Just a few comments. Use DCC friendly turnouts. If you don't you'll regret it. Use circuit breakers to protect your DCC system. Ensure that you can reach all track otherwise you'll have problems. Have fun.
Yes on all those counts! I was admonished to keep my reach-in at 24 inches max. DCC turnouts for sure. Plan on using a lot of Tortoise machines. Thinking of using Frog juicers on the main level as we're going to lack space to install Tortoise machines. Breakers... How about a PM42?
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroad I use NCE wireless with Tony's PSX breakers. You look as if you plan on having a lot of turnouts so I'd recommend considering the Fast Tracks turnouts to save $$$. I built 105 to replace the non DCC friendly turnouts. I was a novice to start but was able to build 5 in a day (over 8 hours). At the end of the day, I vowed to never do that again until 2 days later when I repeated everything in one hour less. My turnouts are hand thrown using Caboose throws. Keeping everything within 2 feet is very practical. You may not need to power your frogs if your locos have all wheel pickup. Track cleaning is important. I use no-ox and wish that I'd had it 50 years ago. Use metal wheels on your rolling stock and weigh your cars following the NMRA standards. The metal wheels track better and seem to help keep the track cleaner. My track is all code 83. Wireless DCC allows for walk around operation which allows you to use manual turnout control. My layout is 2 level in a 26 x 20 room. I use a helix which goes around my furnace & water heater with each loop 30 ft and a grade of 1%. My helix is double track. I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba. My e-mail is ddownie@shaw.ca and my name is Dave Downie. Best regards.
@@cprtrain Thank you for the encouragement and thoughtful response, Dave! I'll be slowing way down on the switch use going forward on the main and upper deck, using code 83 switches. I should be in good hands there. Plan on using Caboose Industries ground throws also. The rest of this stuff is good best practices. Majority of my railcars have some kind of metal wheels under them. I have a buddy who is an Intermountain dealer. Even if he wasn't, their 36" wheels would be my favorite. Mostly properly weighted (NMRA-ish) cars. I'm fussy about couplers - Kadee only if I can help it.
You are just up the road from us! I assume from your handle and location that you must be a CP fan. Have been noticing them some more lately after seeing that series on CP in BC and Alberta. Beautiful! Would love to explore more of Canada if we ever get time!
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroad Try to catch CP's 2816 on its way to Mexico. I'm hoping to catch the Big Boy if and when it travels east. I use Intermountain wheels (33") exclusively. I'm first generation diesels circa 1959. I model the CPR but do have a few friends who model the "other" Canadian RR. I'm still trying to convert them .
@cprtrain Unfortunately the closest the CP 2816 will be to me is five hrs away on a day that I have to work!!!
I got a charge out of your 'other' Canadian railroad comment. I'm not a fan either. Their paint schemes have been amazing over the years. But that stunt they pulled with the KCS a few years ago was not great. I've come to feel more kinship with the CP guys than any other outfit in Canada. Although I will always bleed green!!!
Great video and layout! Did you use 1 x 4s or did you use 2 x 4s for the frame pieces and joists? Thanks!
@stevedrake36 Thanks Steve! No 2x4s in the layout construction itself. I used some 1x4s under the Sioux City yard, mainly because they were leftovers from another project. The rest of the open grid is cheap pine 1x3s. May even use 1x2s on the main level. Most of the gusset support members are salvaged 1x2s from another guys layout.
@@blackhillsandeasternrailroad Thanks again!