I needed to copy some decorative plaster work which was removed when our house was "converted" in the 1920s - your videos were a great help, so many thanks.
I use the silicon that dentists use for moulding large fillings. It is cheaper than your silicon putty. Two versions so far: one is rolling two equal amounts together but it sets very fast and less flexible than yours. The other is a putty plus a smaller amount of paste which allows you to extend the moulding time and have something more flexible but i done know if it is as flexible as yours. Love your videos. thank you for sharing so much of the techniques and your own secrets
@@simonnoble6243 you have to be careful with some dental silicone they can shrink. So if you want to keep the mould it's not great. I had a lovely silicone putty by Tiranti, but they stopped making it. Its was as you described you could mix more or less from the tube to make it go longer or shorter
Ma'am if I had known you were here I would have arrived sooner! Thank you!!! This putty method has really given me some ideas for future work on my own things. I don't make anything for sale, but sometimes I don't buy things because of broken bits and pieces, but now...
Prepare five or ten small 5-20 grams balls of the silicone parts, not mixed together, and then it’s really quick to grab two balls and squish together. You get a better workflow and less loss due to drying. Loved the dragon - and really recognised the “don’t know for what, I just got to have it” 😂❤
Great, Great, video Ms. Ruth! I seriously went to sleep watching you, and now I have woken up and I am watching you again. I apprenticed many moons ago under a furniture restoration designer in the Berkshire's, MA. He was fabulous. You are both alike in ways, great teachers, with great patience. I was such a novice back then in my late 20's, and I am realizing what information I learned long ago I am still that same novice, but now, I am now in my early 50's, but now have lousy recall! 🤣🤣🤫🤫☹ BUT, there is always bright-side, thanks to your videos, I am remembering, and learning a vast amount of information from your videos. I am excited to start some projects that I have put on hold b/c I was just unclear of where to start (e.g. I could not remember gilding process). Thank you !! Best, Julie C
This was a great video!! I’m a metalsmith, but do a lot of lighting restoration and am currently in the thick of a furniture restoration job (which is why I was originally watching your compo video and as always, happily got sucked into Ruth auto play). I have never ever thought of taking 1-part molds of sconce components for future use, which I am so excited about!! I live in Savannah, GA, which is chock full of incredible antique lighting. I’m about to oil gild and rewire 6 pairs of sconces. In other news, as a tedium-obsessed jeweler, I thoroughly enjoyed the clip of you cleaning up the frame before casting it. I have been using my wax carving tools on the furniture job and I strongly recommend them. Most are various dental tools, but you would really love wolf wax tools. They’re pricier than dental tools, but they’re perfect for scraping away bits of all shapes and sizes. I recommend both sets. I use them for all sorts of things! Anyway, thanks for all of your informative videos!! I really like the way you approach your work and you have really helped me become a better gilder.
Incredible videos Ruth. I just binge watched ten of them. Now I need to decide which technique to start collecting supplies for: gilding or moulding 🤔🤗
The joy of starting something new 😁. Depends if you are needed to repair something before gilding. I think the whole reason I do my job is to get a mould collection. I have thousands of them now. Thanks for the views 😊
Love the repeats! Thank you for your grand videos. The image of your shop is inspiring too. Have you ever filmed a visual and the why? of your works stations?
Fantastic video Ruth, resulting in me purchasing some of this product and I vouch also that it is excellent and fast. I used to use a really slow setting mould compound before. I restore clocks and very often mouldings are missing, so I normally remove another piece and replicate that. I use a piece of glass to make the mouldinon which is brilliant because I can turn it over quickly to make sure I have pushed it down to get crisp edges. I think under normal circumstances you would have had enough time before it started going off because you would not be describing the progress. It would be ideal if it just had another couple of minutes before setting. But thank you really like and love your clear precise instructions. Fantastic.
Interesting video, haven’t seen this kind of silicone before. Can imagine it being really handy for a quick mould. I do metalworking in a fine art foundry and normally the moulding department uses quite thin silicone that is painted on in layers. It takes quite a while to do but can pick up incredible details like the artists fingerprints in the clay.
Hi, I use the liquid silicone for my good moulds that I want to keep. This silicone putty is good for moulds you need for just that job. They will keep for a bit but best to jacket if you want it to last a bit longer as it sags.
@@RuthTappinGilder Yes a jacket is very important on bigger things. They always make a fibreglass jacket when moulding sculptures. It often seems like the most complicated part as it’s a bit like a designing 3D jigsaw puzzle as you need to work out how it can be taken apart to create the least amount of overhangs otherwise you cannot get the wax or whatever you are casting back out again. As I said your videos are really interesting. I know absolutely nothing about antique restoration (other than bronze sculptures) or gilding and find them very informative.
I used to get some from ResinPro (labels are in Italian though!) for Sprig for my ceramics and art work, it took about 20mins to set but they too didn't make containers to fit your hand in and I wouldn't say I have big hands, they all need to have a rethink in sizes! 🤬👍
I'm just wondering when you microwave the compo and the rabbit glue. What wattage is your microwave? (You may have mentioned it, and I've missed it?) Thanks 👍
@@simonhenderson4126 I think it's 800w. just stop after the first 20 seconds then do 5 seconds until you learn about the right times. As its so easy to over heat.
La Mansilla que nos muestra de silicona es muy práctica y de una excelente capacidad de reproducción. Además me llama la atención de que no precise de ningún producto adicional para el desmoldeo. Gracias por la información tan valiosa.
Brilliant tutorials. Thanks so much. Have you ever found it necessary to stablize the little bits in the substrate before applying the silicone? -Please and Thanks
Brilliant! Having binge watched a lot of your vids how exciting to find a new one on a Sunday afternoon, thanks. You have inspired me to have a go! As a piano, and furniture restorer this is not something I have tried before, can you recommend any good books to help me on my way? Thanks for the inspiration
Was going to ask what things you restor. Can't always make videos every week but I try. I'm properly going to do a video going through the books I have. Some are good some are just bad!
Thank-you for taking the time to make this video..Can I ask you where do you purchase compo from? There are so many casting agents out there...I just want to get the right one if you do something like this?
Brilliant videos for reference. Are you or anyone else able to recommend a brand for silicone putty? I've had a couple of brands that are hit and miss for grabbing details. Thanks you are a super star.
Thank you, the silicone I use is in the description. Here it is www.mbfg.co.uk/polycraft-silicone-putty.html I do try to put links to things I am using in the description. 😁
Hi Ruth, great video really interesting, unfortunately for me it arrived a week after I'd done the same job 😀 . I used a putty from amazon (pebeo, siligum) which cost about £11 for 100g, expensive but the small amount was ideal for the repairs I had to do. I wish I'd known that you sold compo I would have called round a picked some up, I cast my small repairs from plaster of paris and inserted them into the old frame I am working on. After watching your oil gilding video I have oil glided over the new plaster. Do you have any tips on ageing the new gilding? The fame is distressed and the new sections of gold stand out, so I would like to blend them in better.
Glad you like the videos. The aging of the gold will be part of the teaching payed for video. I'm planning them out now, but not sure how long till they will be available.
Hi Ruth. Love the little dragon. As you say, "come in handy even if I never need it!". Where did you purchase the materials from?. Did you put any kind of release agent on the areas you were duplicating prior to applying the putty? 🤔 Have a good week Mike 👽
Superb stuff again. Thank you. Do you need to pre-treat frame areas generally prior to applying the silicon putty or silicon liquid, in order to prevent losses occurring from the frame that you are taking the mould from??
@@RuthTappinGilder Hi Ruth, thanks for the response. Love your videos. One more question, If I am restoring a picture frame that the ornaments on it has small cracks on it, will gesso cover those areas and provide a smooth surface for gilding? Thanks
I needed to copy some decorative plaster work which was removed when our house was "converted" in the 1920s - your videos were a great help, so many thanks.
@@camatheson5596 glad it was helpful for you. 😊
@@RuthTappinGilder Very helpful - I've enjoyed watching you on the Restorers many times, and it was an extra pleasure to come across the videos.
Just to let you know that I watch every video to the end and I rewatch them. I'm fascinated with your craft and I love frames.
Thank you 😊
Hopefully there will be some more for you to watch this year.
I use the silicon that dentists use for moulding large fillings. It is cheaper than your silicon putty. Two versions so far: one is rolling two equal amounts together but it sets very fast and less flexible than yours. The other is a putty plus a smaller amount of paste which allows you to extend the moulding time and have something more flexible but i done know if it is as flexible as yours.
Love your videos. thank you for sharing so much of the techniques and your own secrets
@@simonnoble6243 you have to be careful with some dental silicone they can shrink. So if you want to keep the mould it's not great. I had a lovely silicone putty by Tiranti, but they stopped making it. Its was as you described you could mix more or less from the tube to make it go longer or shorter
Ma'am if I had known you were here I would have arrived sooner! Thank you!!!
This putty method has really given me some ideas for future work on my own things. I don't make anything for sale, but sometimes I don't buy things because of broken bits and pieces, but now...
Prepare five or ten small 5-20 grams balls of the silicone parts, not mixed together, and then it’s really quick to grab two balls and squish together. You get a better workflow and less loss due to drying.
Loved the dragon - and really recognised the “don’t know for what, I just got to have it” 😂❤
Great, Great, video Ms. Ruth! I seriously went to sleep watching you, and now I have woken up and I am watching you again.
I apprenticed many moons ago under a furniture restoration designer in the Berkshire's, MA. He was fabulous. You are both alike in ways, great teachers, with great patience. I was such a novice back then in my late 20's, and I am realizing what information I learned long ago I am still that same novice, but now, I am now in my early 50's, but now have lousy recall! 🤣🤣🤫🤫☹
BUT, there is always bright-side, thanks to your videos, I am remembering, and learning a vast amount of information from your videos. I am excited to start some projects that I have put on hold b/c I was just unclear of where to start (e.g. I could not remember gilding process).
Thank you !!
Best,
Julie C
Thanks for watching, glad you are enjoying the videos and it's jogging your memory. R
This was a great video!! I’m a metalsmith, but do a lot of lighting restoration and am currently in the thick of a furniture restoration job (which is why I was originally watching your compo video and as always, happily got sucked into Ruth auto play). I have never ever thought of taking 1-part molds of sconce components for future use, which I am so excited about!! I live in Savannah, GA, which is chock full of incredible antique lighting. I’m about to oil gild and rewire 6 pairs of sconces. In other news, as a tedium-obsessed jeweler, I thoroughly enjoyed the clip of you cleaning up the frame before casting it. I have been using my wax carving tools on the furniture job and I strongly recommend them. Most are various dental tools, but you would really love wolf wax tools. They’re pricier than dental tools, but they’re perfect for scraping away bits of all shapes and sizes. I recommend both sets. I use them for all sorts of things! Anyway, thanks for all of your informative videos!! I really like the way you approach your work and you have really helped me become a better gilder.
Glad the videos help. Thank you for the tool tip will have a look. 😁
You are so talented it’s incredible. Thank you so much for sharing your videos and your talent. Your teach us a lot and we are learning.
So. Very much enjoying your videos. Thank you for making them!
Incredible videos Ruth. I just binge watched ten of them. Now I need to decide which technique to start collecting supplies for: gilding or moulding 🤔🤗
The joy of starting something new 😁. Depends if you are needed to repair something before gilding. I think the whole reason I do my job is to get a mould collection. I have thousands of them now.
Thanks for the views 😊
Love the repeats! Thank you for your grand videos. The image of your shop is inspiring too. Have you ever filmed a visual and the why? of your works stations?
...me too😅
Fantastic video Ruth, resulting in me purchasing some of this product and I vouch also that it is excellent and fast. I used to use a really slow setting mould compound before. I restore clocks and very often mouldings are missing, so I normally remove another piece and replicate that. I use a piece of glass to make the mouldinon which is brilliant because I can turn it over quickly to make sure I have pushed it down to get crisp edges. I think under normal circumstances you would have had enough time before it started going off because you would not be describing the progress. It would be ideal if it just had another couple of minutes before setting. But thank you really like and love your clear precise instructions. Fantastic.
Inspirational! I am jealous of your mould collection. Suffering from mould-envy lol :)
Its the main reason for doing my job. 😂 just to have a great collection!
Interesting video, haven’t seen this kind of silicone before. Can imagine it being really handy for a quick mould.
I do metalworking in a fine art foundry and normally the moulding department uses quite thin silicone that is painted on in layers. It takes quite a while to do but can pick up incredible details like the artists fingerprints in the clay.
Hi, I use the liquid silicone for my good moulds that I want to keep. This silicone putty is good for moulds you need for just that job. They will keep for a bit but best to jacket if you want it to last a bit longer as it sags.
@@RuthTappinGilder Yes a jacket is very important on bigger things. They always make a fibreglass jacket when moulding sculptures. It often seems like the most complicated part as it’s a bit like a designing 3D jigsaw puzzle as you need to work out how it can be taken apart to create the least amount of overhangs otherwise you cannot get the wax or whatever you are casting back out again.
As I said your videos are really interesting. I know absolutely nothing about antique restoration (other than bronze sculptures) or gilding and find them very informative.
I used to get some from ResinPro (labels are in Italian though!) for Sprig for my ceramics and art work, it took about 20mins to set but they too didn't make containers to fit your hand in and I wouldn't say I have big hands, they all need to have a rethink in sizes! 🤬👍
So frustrating. I did fix it by buying the 3kg tubs instead which are much bigger.
I'm just wondering when you microwave the compo and the rabbit glue. What wattage is your microwave? (You may have mentioned it, and I've missed it?) Thanks 👍
@@simonhenderson4126 I think it's 800w. just stop after the first 20 seconds then do 5 seconds until you learn about the right times. As its so easy to over heat.
La Mansilla que nos muestra de silicona es muy práctica y de una excelente capacidad de reproducción. Además me llama la atención de que no precise de ningún producto adicional para el desmoldeo. Gracias por la información tan valiosa.
Nice!! Thank you
Brilliant tutorials. Thanks so much.
Have you ever found it necessary to stablize the little bits in the substrate before applying the silicone?
-Please and Thanks
Mostly no, but sometimes if the gesso is very flaky then yes it does.
Your vid’s are wonderful
Brilliant! Having binge watched a lot of your vids how exciting to find a new one on a Sunday afternoon, thanks. You have inspired me to have a go! As a piano, and furniture restorer this is not something I have tried before, can you recommend any good books to help me on my way? Thanks for the inspiration
Was going to ask what things you restor. Can't always make videos every week but I try. I'm properly going to do a video going through the books I have. Some are good some are just bad!
Thank-you for taking the time to make this video..Can I ask you where do you purchase compo from? There are so many casting agents out there...I just want to get the right one if you do something like this?
Compo will be the next video. I make and sell it, the links will be in the description of the compo video
Brilliant videos for reference. Are you or anyone else able to recommend a brand for silicone putty? I've had a couple of brands that are hit and miss for grabbing details. Thanks you are a super star.
Thank you, the silicone I use is in the description. Here it is www.mbfg.co.uk/polycraft-silicone-putty.html
I do try to put links to things I am using in the description. 😁
That's so lovely of you. I'll look for the descriptions in future. Fingers X it's the silicone and not me being completely useless.🤗
Hi Ruth, great video really interesting, unfortunately for me it arrived a week after I'd done the same job 😀 . I used a putty from amazon (pebeo, siligum) which cost about £11 for 100g, expensive but the small amount was ideal for the repairs I had to do. I wish I'd known that you sold compo I would have called round a picked some up, I cast my small repairs from plaster of paris and inserted them into the old frame I am working on. After watching your oil gilding video I have oil glided over the new plaster. Do you have any tips on ageing the new gilding? The fame is distressed and the new sections of gold stand out, so I would like to blend them in better.
Glad you like the videos. The aging of the gold will be part of the teaching payed for video. I'm planning them out now, but not sure how long till they will be available.
Is this through a patron ?
Hi Ruth. Love the little dragon. As you say, "come in handy even if I never need it!". Where did you purchase the materials from?. Did you put any kind of release agent on the areas you were duplicating prior to applying the putty? 🤔
Have a good week
Mike 👽
Link in the description to the putty. No it doesn't need a release agent. Have a great week too. 🖖
Here’s a little suggestion can you use a little tool to get the stuff out because the pots are so narrow 😮
🙂 some sort of small ladle may be. It doesn't break away easily. I've now started standing the pots on their lid which makes it easier to get out.
Smart! Bingo!
Superb stuff again. Thank you. Do you need to pre-treat frame areas generally prior to applying the silicon putty or silicon liquid, in order to prevent losses occurring from the frame that you are taking the mould from??
I'll glue down any loose decoration with fish glue (in tomorrow's video) other than that it doesn't need any release agent or anything.
Would a parting agent provide certainty about getting it off or really not necessary please?
You shouldn't need any release agents. If you mix the two parts of the silicone in the right quantity, then it will just peel off when set.
@@RuthTappinGilder Thanks Ruth!
love when the aliens come in and start talking! 🙂
Hi Ruth I live in US. Thw website says it can not be delivered to US. Is there a recipe for how to make compo? Thanks,
I'm starting to vacuum pack the compo so gold leaf supplies can ship it around the world. Try them www.goldleafsupplies.co.uk/gilders-compo/
@@RuthTappinGilder Hi Ruth, thanks for the response. Love your videos. One more question, If I am restoring a picture frame that the ornaments on it has small cracks on it, will gesso cover those areas and provide a smooth surface for gilding? Thanks
@@seanbani9435 Glad you like the videos. Yes you can, I tend to leave the small one and just fill bigger ones. As I see it as part of the compo aging.
Hi Ruth I m from New Zealand any chance to buy the putty. Product from gold leaf supplier?
Hi Ruth just wondering do you have a recipe for making compo please ?
Compo is the next video. I sell the compo so don't want to give away the recipe, sorry. R
Bahan cetakan apa nama nya ya
Silicone putty by Polycraft.