Yes sir, another dandy and informative video. You are right about the Unibit. Those things are a life saver. I prefer the two flute Lennox or Greenlee variety (sharper, and stay sharper a lot longer. Possibly still made where they should be, in the USA). Another option to look at in the hole saw department are the Greenlee carbide tipped cutters. Very nice clean burr free holes in up to 3/16" material. Also very good for cutting some of the tougher boron alloy steels in cars nowdays.
Thanks for the videos, I always learn something from watching them. I would like to point out in part one when you were using the 1/2" chassis punch, that there are 4 marks around the outside diameter as shown at 1420. If you layout a perfect X through the center where you want the hole, Align the marks on the cup with the marked out X and the hole will be centered with where you want it. Also when using the larger chassis punches that use the 3/4" bolt, use the 1/2" punch first. This is how I use them for conduit sizes. Thanks again.
One of my favorite ways to cut holes in sheet metal is to use "Brad point" drill bits. They make a clean hole with little or no burrs. Good information!, thanks for sharing!
13:30 For a finer finish with Dremel discs I usually end the cut short of the layout lines then insert an unmounted hacksaw blade (or a snapped-off junior hacksaw blade) to finish the cuts exactly at the line instead of going over. Tape some of the blade to make a handle area if you don't have a holder, it's kinder on your hands/gloves that way. You can't beat a nice sharp chassis punch though.
On hole saws, make sure you get the right sort for the material. I tried cutting steel with just a regular cheapo hole saw. Lot of noise, heat, but not much cutting.
In the workshop of the company I made my apprenticeship at they had a hold down attached to the drill press table to hold the sheet metal in place while drilling. I found that this is a really great feature when you use a normal drill bit. It had a quick release mechanism as well and we all used this a lot. I'm actually surprised that you don't have one of these. I used it for drill bits to up to 30mm (over 1").
In the first video "Not that anyone is going to do this" ..like hell... my belt got lose so I grabbed an old cheap socket and ground it down to a pointed and put that on my belt and hammered through it on my vise's anvil -- because I am not going to buy a leather punch for one hole and my leatherman makes a sloppy ass hole. The unidrill is designed for making holes in the outside cases of electronics. They're handy for custom jobs. A switch might be one size, an LED another... you can drill half a dozen size holes in your project case swiftly and easily & relatively cost effective. 4:41 I fought with my single cutter hole saw until I figured out that the key to this is the relief angle -- it was totally missing on the harbor freight one I had. Once I ground that in it worked much better (meaning less smoke, the first made enough to make smoke signals!) and if this is your only option it'd not bad. I have found one place this can "shine" -- when a new lock is installed in a smaller hole and the typical hole saw needs a pilot bit. This works well w/o one on a dp. BTW, HF has diamond wheels for the dremel quite cheaply. Good for all kinds of cutting and even sharpening your carbide teethed tool bits. 6:24 not to hard to resharpen those. My 1/2 hand drill has very good VSR so it will do a spped where you barely see it move. I bought that Craftsmen 3 handled drill on layaway when I was 15 years old with my paper route money. I was so proud of that drill for so long!
If you need a suggestion for a video, then let me suggest making a radio chassis. Your demonstration of chassis punches reminded me of the process of punching metal, bending it into a box and fastening the folded metal. All dim memories from a wasted youth... Still it may make an interesting 'quick' project.
Tom at the OxToolCo channel showed use of rotabroaches for making holes in thin sheet. Worked great, with no burrs. They also work in thicker metal. For production uses there's also laser, plasma, and water jet machines that do quick and accurate work, but those aren't practical for home use unless you have a lot of money and space.
Before you "dremel" the sheet metal, drill 4 tiny holes, 1 in each corner. Then slice away. You get a nice small radius in the corners, and no need to over-cut. Want a larger radius? Use a bigger bit!
Great video as always. When using the craftsman type saw ( dont know what its name is, jigsaw?) Make sure you got the proper type of theet orientation on the blade. The blades for metal only cuts on the upward stroke unlike blades for wood etc. If you dont it will jump around like crazy:)
I always thought those steps drills were a gadget too. UNTIL I actually used one -- they are quicker and safer. Can't tell you how many times i've struggled with making larger holes with conventional drills. I was glad at that time my drill press only had a 1/3 HP motor - or I could have had a real bad day. Those other adjustable pivoting death machines sure aren't worth taking the chance with - despite my trying -- all can go well UNTIL it snags - OH BOY. Using the hole saws - I've found that in soft materials (plastic) to run them in reverse. I know everyone will say how it damages the cutter. But otherwise in soft material they grab too hard especially using a portable drill. I also like to use the chassis punches like you mentioned. Got a whole series of those from my Dad and he used to make lots of Ham Radio equipment with aluminum chassis.
Yes, those big drills can really grab. Kind of scary. Sometimes I never heard of running a holesaw backwards, I will try it in soft materials. I am in the process today of Shooting a video of drilling large holes. We’ll see how that works.
Nothing wrong with the circle/fly cutter (like you showed at about 4:15) to cut larger holes in aluminum. For cutting 4"+ holes in aircraft aluminum panels, there's really nothing better. Just need to be careful and don't turn it to fast. Also should back-up the work if possible...especially behind the pilot/pivot point.
Getting slowly caught up. Cutting holes in sheet metal is a bear. I have the scars to prove. Have a Whitney hand punch, hole saws and even a couple of greenlee punches to use. I do a lot of work in sheet metal. I also have a ring and circle shear. I do a lot of sheet metal work. Good information.
I very much enjoy your videos! I have a couple of suggestions for inclusion in future. First, since there is nothing more useless than the "keyless" chucks used on most portable drills today, how about some words about how to remove a chuck so it can be replaced? Second, some info. on how to properly tighten a Jacobs chuck using all three key positions to minimize runout. Maybe even a demo of measured runout using only one position on the chuck, versus drawing the jaws up evenly, by using the holes in rotation. Thanks. LADye
Yes sir, another dandy and informative video. You are right about the Unibit. Those things are a life saver. I prefer the two flute Lennox or Greenlee variety (sharper, and stay sharper a lot longer. Possibly still made where they should be, in the USA). Another option to look at in the hole saw department are the Greenlee carbide tipped cutters. Very nice clean burr free holes in up to 3/16" material. Also very good for cutting some of the tougher boron alloy steels in cars nowdays.
Thanks for the videos, I always learn something from watching them. I would like to point out in part one when you were using the 1/2" chassis punch, that there are 4 marks around the outside diameter as shown at 1420. If you layout a perfect X through the center where you want the hole, Align the marks on the cup with the marked out X and the hole will be centered with where you want it. Also when using the larger chassis punches that use the 3/4" bolt, use the 1/2" punch first. This is how I use them for conduit sizes.
Thanks again.
Thanks-I never noticed those marks!
One of my favorite ways to cut holes in sheet metal is to use "Brad point" drill bits. They make a clean hole with little or no burrs. Good information!, thanks for sharing!
13:30 For a finer finish with Dremel discs I usually end the cut short of the layout lines then insert an unmounted hacksaw blade (or a snapped-off junior hacksaw blade) to finish the cuts exactly at the line instead of going over. Tape some of the blade to make a handle area if you don't have a holder, it's kinder on your hands/gloves that way. You can't beat a nice sharp chassis punch though.
Thanks-good idea.
On hole saws, make sure you get the right sort for the material.
I tried cutting steel with just a regular cheapo hole saw. Lot of noise, heat, but not much cutting.
You should use the bi-metallic types - made by Blu-Mol, sold under the Milwaukee, Starret, DeWalt and other brand names...
"Don't send me 2 cents"
~
lol
~~
Love your quick wit, dry, but still funny.
~~~
Hope all is well,take care.
James
In the workshop of the company I made my apprenticeship at they had a hold down attached to the drill press table to hold the sheet metal in place while drilling.
I found that this is a really great feature when you use a normal drill bit.
It had a quick release mechanism as well and we all used this a lot.
I'm actually surprised that you don't have one of these.
I used it for drill bits to up to 30mm (over 1").
In the first video "Not that anyone is going to do this" ..like hell... my belt got lose so I grabbed an old cheap socket and ground it down to a pointed and put that on my belt and hammered through it on my vise's anvil -- because I am not going to buy a leather punch for one hole and my leatherman makes a sloppy ass hole.
The unidrill is designed for making holes in the outside cases of electronics. They're handy for custom jobs. A switch might be one size, an LED another... you can drill half a dozen size holes in your project case swiftly and easily & relatively cost effective.
4:41 I fought with my single cutter hole saw until I figured out that the key to this is the relief angle -- it was totally missing on the harbor freight one I had. Once I ground that in it worked much better (meaning less smoke, the first made enough to make smoke signals!) and if this is your only option it'd not bad.
I have found one place this can "shine" -- when a new lock is installed in a smaller hole and the typical hole saw needs a pilot bit. This works well w/o one on a dp.
BTW, HF has diamond wheels for the dremel quite cheaply. Good for all kinds of cutting and even sharpening your carbide teethed tool bits.
6:24 not to hard to resharpen those. My 1/2 hand drill has very good VSR so it will do a spped where you barely see it move. I bought that Craftsmen 3 handled drill on layaway when I was 15 years old with my paper route money. I was so proud of that drill for so long!
If you need a suggestion for a video, then let me suggest making a radio chassis. Your demonstration of chassis punches reminded me of the process of punching metal, bending it into a box and fastening the folded metal. All dim memories from a wasted youth...
Still it may make an interesting 'quick' project.
good idea
Tom at the OxToolCo channel showed use of rotabroaches for making holes in thin sheet. Worked great, with no burrs. They also work in thicker metal.
For production uses there's also laser, plasma, and water jet machines that do quick and accurate work, but those aren't practical for home use unless you have a lot of money and space.
Before you "dremel" the sheet metal, drill 4 tiny holes, 1 in each corner. Then slice away. You get a nice small radius in the corners, and no need to over-cut. Want a larger radius? Use a bigger bit!
the great thing about a step drill is the deeper you go, the sharper it gets
To drill holes, smaller holes in sheetmetal, I clamp the metal between two pieces of wood and then drill the hole. Comes out very nicely everytime.
👍👍
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Great video as always. When using the craftsman type saw ( dont know what its name is, jigsaw?) Make sure you got the proper type of theet orientation on the blade. The blades for metal only cuts on the upward stroke unlike blades for wood etc. If you dont it will jump around like crazy:)
They were originally called "sabre saws"
I always thought those steps drills were a gadget too. UNTIL I actually used one -- they are quicker and safer. Can't tell you how many times i've struggled with making larger holes with conventional drills. I was glad at that time my drill press only had a 1/3 HP motor - or I could have had a real bad day.
Those other adjustable pivoting death machines sure aren't worth taking the chance with - despite my trying -- all can go well UNTIL it snags - OH BOY.
Using the hole saws - I've found that in soft materials (plastic) to run them in reverse. I know everyone will say how it damages the cutter. But otherwise in soft material they grab too hard especially using a portable drill.
I also like to use the chassis punches like you mentioned. Got a whole series of those from my Dad and he used to make lots of Ham Radio equipment with aluminum chassis.
Yes, those big drills can really grab. Kind of scary. Sometimes I never heard of running a holesaw backwards, I will try it in soft materials.
I am in the process today of
Shooting a video of drilling large holes. We’ll see how that works.
Those trepanning tools you showed to us, they can be safely used in your bridgeport. ive done it and they are very effective !! I:)
Great video. Your voice reminds me of Jimmy Stewart in a good way.
Wow, thanks!
Have you any footage for creating a D shape hole for a gearbox lever 5mm+ mild steel plate, 10mm D shape spindle from gearbox.
Nothing wrong with the circle/fly cutter (like you showed at about 4:15) to cut larger holes in aluminum. For cutting 4"+ holes in aircraft aluminum panels, there's really nothing better. Just need to be careful and don't turn it to fast. Also should back-up the work if possible...especially behind the pilot/pivot point.
Getting slowly caught up. Cutting holes in sheet metal is a bear. I have the scars to prove. Have a Whitney hand punch, hole saws and even a couple of greenlee punches to use. I do a lot of work in sheet metal. I also have a ring and circle shear. I do a lot of sheet metal work. Good information.
👍👍
What is the best way to put large holes into thicker material on the mill? For example a 3" hole in .25" aluminum or steel.
A boring bar
What about a knockout to make holes? I've used them occasionally!
Please could i cut the metal sheet with just jigsaw?i am worrying to make square holes for LCDs..thanks for you kind information!
Maybe, if it is a metal cutting blade
I very much enjoy your videos! I have a couple of suggestions for inclusion in future. First, since there is nothing more useless than the "keyless" chucks used on most portable drills today, how about some words about how to remove a chuck so it can be replaced? Second, some info. on how to properly tighten a Jacobs chuck using all three key positions to minimize runout. Maybe even a demo of measured runout using only one position on the chuck, versus drawing the jaws up evenly, by using the holes in rotation. Thanks. LADye
I learned most of these tips the hard way. lol
@mrpete222
Drilling in aluminium is easy, but what do you do if your sheet metal is made of 1 mm thick steel?
Those abominations with the lathe toolbits would work nicely in a blacksmith's post drill but not many shops have those now.
3:25 ...no cutting oil(?)
Good Stufffffffffff, I leaned a lot.......
this guy's got SKILZ. :)
Thomas Passaro ....you don't have to spell it out-!!
... it may not grab, but it will pull you off center... (very slowly, but worth noting)
Two words
PLASMA CUTTER makes much of the hole saw approach redundant
(Mildly inebreated, take all my comments as they are, as always)