Just thought of this method for mine and told my wife that I haven't seen anyone else do it this way. Told her they only have some that clamp to the outside of the way and it can slip.(thought I was so smart). Then watched your video and saw you already did it.(should have known,LOL). This is the one I am going to make. Just sold my Jet lathe to a young military fella and gave him your channel to learn how to use a lathe. Thanks
Thanks Mr. Pete! I have a 10-inch Atlas without a stop, and I've thought of buying one. You did a great job of showing the limitations of the factory stop. I'll figure a way to make my own along the lines of what you've shown, particularly the feature of clamping between the ways.
Nice work Mr. Pete! Thank you for clarifying the purpose, or should I say "limitations" of a carriage stop. I am an old hand when it comes to wrenching on cars or even welding high pressure pipelines and free-standing oil tanks, but I have just purchased my 1st lathe. So while the theories and purposes of lathe use are fairly apparent, much of the practices and procedures are still foreign to me. At 44yrs. young, I am uncertain about the chances of making it into the regional college's shop certification program, simply because of time, distance, and financial constraints. I believe we are never too old to learn, and I would love to be the lone dinosaur in Stockton, California's shop program, but as a full time farmer and the lone care-giver for my elderly father, I'm just not sure how I would find the time. Therefore, thank you for providing persons like myself a place to attain an education in machining from my living room. Take care and "Aloha"...Chuck.
Another great video. And nice stop piece. Iv'e said this before maybe, but you are doing society a great favor by offering these videos. These skills will be one day lost and we may need to learn them again....Thanks again & keep the vids coming...PL
Tubalcain, thanks again for all of the teaching of DIY, that seems to be going the way of the dodo... us Students would be sad pressed to do this trip down proficiency lane without you r help.
Great idea just made one myself only with a few changes instead of the rod and set screw I milled a pocket in the middle and use a piece of round stock threaded it and some threaded rod for the stop works great thank you for the inspiration .
Mr Pete, I like your approach here, going between the ways. I agree w other commenters about using a 1/2-20 or similar threaded stop, and making the whole part as low as possible to add clearance. That probably does not concern you as you have other machines to use as well, and are less likely to swing maximum diameter work on a lighter duty machine like that when you have the Clausing available.
I may build one for my craftsman atlas. I made the other kind and its ok but like you stated its a pain to get to the bolt to tighten it down. it will twist if you jam or power into it. I generally feed that last bit by hand gently. also I was under the impression the lead screw has a built in slip clutch just before the gear box. at least if I recall correctly that's what I read when I replaced my lead screw a few years back. correct me if I'm wrong on that. still learning so much from your teaching ability. thanks a million!
Thanks for This Idea.I made one for the Outside Edge. I was wanting too mount and Indicator on Something. You just Finished my idea with Your design. Thank You
Another great video. This idea can be adapted to suit almost any machine depending on your own requirements and ingenuity. Looking forward to the next video, whatever it may be. :-)
Nice Lyle. I made a spring-loaded multi-position stop for my Atlas (1937 model, so it has the thin ways) and it suffers from the problem where it can rotate out of position.
The Atlas carriage stop looks like an afterthought, the micrometer stop is nice though. "Don't throw that out son, it might come in handy" my dad would say (often).
Hey mr pete either I'm going crazy and can see into the future or I have saw this video before, ??? Great video though I watched the whole thing again I have a mini lathe and am too looking for a carriage stop, great idea, :))) thanks again
Nice. The only issues I can see is a bit of loss of swing due the bolt heads. Maybe an allen head set screw for the stop lock and some recessed socket head bolts to lock the carriage stop? If you're not concerned about something hanging uo on the bolt heads it looks great.
russhellmy I agree. I have the luxury of having air near my lathe and short blast of air cleans them right out. If you size the bolts the same yon can use only one key instead of two wrenches. I am just thinking of preventing crashes or limiting swing of the work.
Nice. I just bought one of these, but I don't have the stop for it. I think I will make a hook that pinches the way from side to side and then use a micrometer head for the stop.
I would have threaded the block 1/2-20 for a stop screw instead of the rod. That is .050" per revolution. Fairly easy to then make it a micrometer stop, or just use a 1/2-20 bolt for a while. Easier to fine adjust either way.
I was thinking maybe thread the stop rod and hole instead of a square head bolt. Seems like the threaded rod would be stronger although maybe not as fast to adjust, it might be worth it for the strength.
mrpete222 great job on the stop. For your micrometer version couldn't you do something similar but incorporate the factory stop that you already have? I'd cannibalize the one that only had one clamp bolt.
harperjmichael A piece of sandpaper, folded and inserted between the flat way and the factory made stop "may" have prevented the stop from moving..worth a try..
Watched all the vids, unfortunately I don't have enough monney to buy the tutorials. I would assume that the stopping rod would get mushroomed at some point of using the stop... Any how the vids are so great and the effort to make them is simply epic. P.S. I am a CNC machinist from europe- Latvia. Best regards.
I know this is way after the fact but I'm curious as to why you didn't disassemble one of the micrometer stops and incorporate the mechanism into your new stop.
Hey tubalcain, I have a Atlas 10" Lathe, 36" bed, D series, circa 1936 (I believe so) and it is missing the entire leadscrew assembly with gears. Do you have any idea where I can get these parts? Also would you happen to know the thread size for a new 4 jaw chuck? Love all the videos!
Pitch it if it is worn out or useless, I agree, to heck with the enviro-nazi's. I like your videos, they are well done and informative. I wish I had a lathe.
No disrespect intended, I'm just curious... at about 13:36 you say drill 13/64 to tap 1/4-20, but isn't the correct size for a 1/4-20 thread at 75% (recommended for aluminum) a #7 drill?
Tapping Aluminum a person wants to use the high Spec. of Pitch (major & Minor Dimenision Stuff) .Because the Tap will Rip the threads if the Tap drill is too Small. WD-40 is the Best Lube for Machining or Tap ping Aluminum.
Thank you david that was apprecaited...I found the video. Very interesting way to go about it. I have seen quiet a few people make a compound that swivels to make round ends or balls as well. I was just curious how master Pete did it :)
Ever thing a threaded rod instead of set screw on a smooth rod, maybe using 2 nuts 2 pinch lock? Just a thought, i could imagine how many dumb suggestions u might get. Just wanted add one more. Thx for the vid
Nice project, I don't like the set scree sticking up like that, a potential snag point for dwarf strings, or even could foul a large diameter part. Also if the set screw comes even slightly lose which might happen after several bump stops, then the rod could move without you noticing, then the whole point of the stop is worthless. I'd be taking the micrometer parts out of the retired stops and repurposed one to the new stop, brings the project from a 6/10 to a 9/10, if I were your metal shop teacher. It also give you a topic for a follow up video.
So you answered your own ridiculous command to throw away anything that was broken! Repurpose, reuse. Your aluminum should have been "thrown out" under your dictum. That is the problem with absolutes and pontificating. It can bite you in the butt. Something former teachers should know to guard against. After a sermon from the mount don't fall off! Other than that I enjoyed the video. To further answer why "so many of you get on me about this..." there are a lot of us that live where if it isn't in the scrap box we can't get it and if we could it is expensive. So rebuying what we have thrown away is wasteful. I would double check on the atlas parts too. It seems to me I bought a lantern style thread cutting tool from an outfit that did nothing but parts a couple of years ago. I also recall an advertisement in Home Machinist of at least one such outfit.
Douglas Thompson. you are being a pointless and pedantic ass, for one he checked him self in the very same comment. I get where hes coming from because like him I also am a packrat, thus I had to develop rules for my self...that I often break. second, a piece of raw stock is fundamentally NOT broken or worn out, by definition.
Just thought of this method for mine and told my wife that I haven't seen anyone else do it this way. Told her they only have some that clamp to the outside of the way and it can slip.(thought I was so smart). Then watched your video and saw you already did it.(should have known,LOL). This is the one I am going to make. Just sold my Jet lathe to a young military fella and gave him your channel to learn how to use a lathe. Thanks
We invented the same device, just five years apart. Thanks for the reference do the young man
Thanks Mr. Pete! I have a 10-inch Atlas without a stop, and I've thought of buying one. You did a great job of showing the limitations of the factory stop. I'll figure a way to make my own along the lines of what you've shown, particularly the feature of clamping between the ways.
Nice work Mr. Pete! Thank you for clarifying the purpose, or should I say "limitations" of a carriage stop. I am an old hand when it comes to wrenching on cars or even welding high pressure pipelines and free-standing oil tanks, but I have just purchased my 1st lathe. So while the theories and purposes of lathe use are fairly apparent, much of the practices and procedures are still foreign to me.
At 44yrs. young, I am uncertain about the chances of making it into the regional college's shop certification program, simply because of time, distance, and financial constraints. I believe we are never too old to learn, and I would love to be the lone dinosaur in Stockton, California's shop program, but as a full time farmer and the lone care-giver for my elderly father, I'm just not sure how I would find the time.
Therefore, thank you for providing persons like myself a place to attain an education in machining from my living room.
Take care and "Aloha"...Chuck.
I LIKE it! Simple, straightforward, yet elegant in design and operation. Excellent application of an improvement to an existing device!
Nice job. Always nice to see an idea go from conception all the way to production like that. Thanks for sharing.
Another great video. And nice stop piece. Iv'e said this before maybe, but you are doing society a great favor by offering these videos. These skills will be one day lost and we may need to learn them again....Thanks again & keep the vids coming...PL
Thanks for watching----and thanks for the encouragement.
Tubalcain, thanks again for all of the teaching of DIY, that seems to be going the way of the dodo... us Students would be sad pressed to do this trip down proficiency lane without you r help.
THANK YOU
Still the best machining tutorials on TH-cam!
Mr Pete is held in high regard on certain machinist forums.
Great little project Mr. Pete ! Thank you for sharing it with us !
Great idea just made one myself only with a few changes instead of the rod and set screw I milled a pocket in the middle and use a piece of round stock threaded it and some threaded rod for the stop works great thank you for the inspiration .
Mr Pete, I like your approach here, going between the ways. I agree w other commenters about using a 1/2-20 or similar threaded stop, and making the whole part as low as possible to add clearance. That probably does not concern you as you have other machines to use as well, and are less likely to swing maximum diameter work on a lighter duty machine like that when you have the Clausing available.
great little idea mr pete it works well and easy to see and access keep the great videos coming
Another problem solved and another great video as the result. Thank you sir!
I'm going to make this today and it's what my lathe is needing. It's awesome! Merry Christmas Mr.Pete !
Very nice work as always. A vast improvement to the stock designs.
I like it. Planning to make one for my Atlas 618!! Thanks Mr. Pete.
One thing for sure it will not twist when the saddle contacts it as the others did - I think it is a significant improvement overall,
I may build one for my craftsman atlas. I made the other kind and its ok but like you stated its a pain to get to the bolt to tighten it down. it will twist if you jam or power into it. I generally feed that last bit by hand gently. also I was under the impression the lead screw has a built in slip clutch just before the gear box. at least if I recall correctly that's what I read when I replaced my lead screw a few years back. correct me if I'm wrong on that. still learning so much from your teaching ability. thanks a million!
Thanks for This Idea.I made one for the Outside Edge.
I was wanting too mount and Indicator on Something.
You just Finished my idea with Your design.
Thank You
Another great video. This idea can be adapted to suit almost any machine depending on your own requirements and ingenuity. Looking forward to the next video, whatever it may be. :-)
Nice Lyle. I made a spring-loaded multi-position stop for my Atlas (1937 model, so it has the thin ways) and it suffers from the problem where it can rotate out of position.
The Atlas carriage stop looks like an afterthought, the micrometer stop is nice though.
"Don't throw that out son, it might come in handy" my dad would say (often).
What do you think!! well i think that's a Great little project Mr. Pete Thank you for sharing it with us !
Great project and video...thanks for sharing, and educating, as always.
Nice project. Easy to build. Thanks for sharing.
I got a 13'' South Bend. Made one that rides on the way. Thanks for the tip.
Awesome
Hey mr pete either I'm going crazy and can see into the future or I have saw this video before, ??? Great video though I watched the whole thing again I have a mini lathe and am too looking for a carriage stop, great idea, :))) thanks again
Nice. The only issues I can see is a bit of loss of swing due the bolt heads. Maybe an allen head set screw for the stop lock and some recessed socket head bolts to lock the carriage stop? If you're not concerned about something hanging uo on the bolt heads it looks great.
Being flush would be nice, but Allen key sockets would be terrible . . . always filling up with swarf.
russhellmy
I agree. I have the luxury of having air near my lathe and short blast of air cleans them right out. If you size the bolts the same yon can use only one key instead of two wrenches. I am just thinking of preventing crashes or limiting swing of the work.
Nice alternative design for a carriage stop.
That's a great design! I'm going to have to make one for myself
another informative and entertaining production!!!
thank you
I'd suggest using a single centered bolt for mounting and offsetting the stop rod.
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Nice. I just bought one of these, but I don't have the stop for it.
I think I will make a hook that pinches the way from side to side and then use a micrometer head for the stop.
Paul Ste. Marie That'll work
Well done very nice! You rock TK!
I would have threaded the block 1/2-20 for a stop screw instead of the rod. That is .050" per revolution. Fairly easy to then make it a micrometer stop, or just use a 1/2-20 bolt for a while. Easier to fine adjust either way.
Can still be done, with 5/16 he still has the meat for a 1/2 -20.
just got to be carful with large diameter work or the chuck jaws may hit it ?
Nice simple design I like it.
Simple and Effective = AWESOME !!!
🤙
I was thinking maybe thread the stop rod and hole instead of a square head bolt. Seems like the threaded rod would be stronger although maybe not as fast to adjust, it might be worth it for the strength.
mrpete222 great job on the stop. For your micrometer version couldn't you do something similar but incorporate the factory stop that you already have? I'd cannibalize the one that only had one clamp bolt.
harperjmichael A piece of sandpaper, folded and inserted between the flat way and the factory made stop "may" have prevented the stop from moving..worth a try..
Watched all the vids, unfortunately I don't have enough monney to buy the tutorials. I would assume that the stopping rod would get mushroomed at some point of using the stop... Any how the vids are so great and the effort to make them is simply epic. P.S. I am a CNC machinist from europe- Latvia. Best regards.
I know this is way after the fact but I'm curious as to why you didn't disassemble one of the micrometer stops and incorporate the mechanism into your new stop.
Great job I would add a magnetic pan or just a magnet.
Hey tubalcain, I have a Atlas 10" Lathe, 36" bed, D series, circa 1936 (I believe so) and it is missing the entire leadscrew assembly with gears. Do you have any idea where I can get these parts? Also would you happen to know the thread size for a new 4 jaw chuck? Love all the videos!
MattsMotorz Your only hope is ebay for parts. I think the thread is 1 1/2"-8, but measure it.
Okay thank you!
Well done, might make one for my hvlh
Gets the job done good job sir
Nice I have the same lathe with no stop so perhaps I’ll have one shortly
Yes
Great job!
How about moving the stop to the back side like your compound stop on tip # 77? Means a threaded hole but avoids chips and you can put dial on too.
Wouldn't this design require you have to completely remove the pinch plate to install/uninstall?
I like this design a lot compared with the factory stop. Nice project.
45 the top edges so not as many chips will collect. Nicely done!!
Pitch it if it is worn out or useless, I agree, to heck with the enviro-nazi's. I like your videos, they are well done and informative. I wish I had a lathe.
I think I'll make one for my Atlas 10F after I rework the gears.
I like that. Thank you sir. Think I'll make one for my Smithy.
very nice Lyle
Great job, miter the edges
I like it. I think ill make one for my south bend.
I like this so much I'm going to make one for my 6" atlas
No disrespect intended, I'm just curious... at about 13:36 you say drill 13/64 to tap 1/4-20, but isn't the correct size for a 1/4-20 thread at 75% (recommended for aluminum) a #7 drill?
#7 Drill - .201" DIA
13/64" Drill - .203" DIA
For all intents and purposes, it really doesn't matter...
the difference between #7 and 13/64 is what? like 0.002? Im no machinist, but I cant imagine it makes a bit of difference in this case.
Tapping Aluminum a person wants to use the high Spec. of Pitch (major & Minor Dimenision Stuff) .Because the Tap will Rip the threads if the Tap drill is too Small.
WD-40 is the Best Lube for Machining or Tap ping Aluminum.
666alikat Oh, yeah, I didn't even think to check their actual sizes! Derp.
Cameron Medri Yeah I didn't even think to check the actual sizes. I guess I should've done that first!
Good work
how did he round the end of the rod like that?
hi with a form tool check out one of his older videos he shows how to make them
Thank you david that was apprecaited...I found the video. Very interesting way to go about it. I have seen quiet a few people make a compound that swivels to make round ends or balls as well. I was just curious how master Pete did it :)
awesome work......
Thanks Great video!
looks good
excellent
Like it.... I will do the same.
Good thinking
Ever thing a threaded rod instead of set screw on a smooth rod, maybe using 2 nuts 2 pinch lock? Just a thought, i could imagine how many dumb suggestions u might get. Just wanted add one more. Thx for the vid
I hate it when things go cockeyed. lol - The new term for scrap is re-purposed materials. - It's different.
neat job ,.
That dull blade should be thrown out or sharpened right away
Pretty nifty!!!
Nice project, I don't like the set scree sticking up like that, a potential snag point for dwarf strings, or even could foul a large diameter part. Also if the set screw comes even slightly lose which might happen after several bump stops, then the rod could move without you noticing, then the whole point of the stop is worthless.
I'd be taking the micrometer parts out of the retired stops and repurposed one to the new stop, brings the project from a 6/10 to a 9/10, if I were your metal shop teacher. It also give you a topic for a follow up video.
I like it
Remove propeller
So you answered your own ridiculous command to throw away anything that was broken! Repurpose, reuse. Your aluminum should have been "thrown out" under your dictum. That is the problem with absolutes and pontificating. It can bite you in the butt. Something former teachers should know to guard against. After a sermon from the mount don't fall off!
Other than that I enjoyed the video. To further answer why "so many of you get on me about this..." there are a lot of us that live where if it isn't in the scrap box we can't get it and if we could it is expensive. So rebuying what we have thrown away is wasteful.
I would double check on the atlas parts too. It seems to me I bought a lantern style thread cutting tool from an outfit that did nothing but parts a couple of years ago. I also recall an advertisement in Home Machinist of at least one such outfit.
Douglas Thompson. you are being a pointless and pedantic ass, for one he checked him self in the very same comment. I get where hes coming from because like him I also am a packrat, thus I had to develop rules for my self...that I often break.
second, a piece of raw stock is fundamentally NOT broken or worn out, by definition.