Not every job is a high dollar custom build, we work with people on all sorts of different budgets. The next project we've got is CRAZY.. My favorite project of my career. It's going to be insane, I hope you guys are ready to see something that's never been seen before on this platform. I'll give you a three-word hint: Cliffside, Windmill, Repairs.
Hey man, you have no idea of how much I like your work and you are a great figure to follow. However this time around I would please advice you to look and double check, maybe with a structural engineer to give you his opinion.. I do not know if you read about the balcony that sheared off with 13 people at Berkeley, six of them died(It was supposed to hold 60lbs per square ft) I am pretty sure what you did may hold 4 or 5 people easily but over time you do not know how will the owners make use of the balcony. I have read many stories of balconies that fail way under their designed capacity. Kind regards, and hope that you take my humble opinion the best way possible.
You do do nice work and you’re correct in using tape on joists, with that being said always, always overbuild when deck is not ground level. Supports are a must especially since the existing joists were compromised, rotted, cut back, repaired, with no idea how many people will walk out on it. Sistering on an existing joist is fine but cantilevered out that far with no support underneath is just plain dangerous. My opinion may not matter though but over 40 years as a carpenter / deck builder its always better to be safe than sorry.
I cannot begin to tell you how many deck builds I see that neglect to install some type of waterproof tape on top of the joists. So glad to see that you know how important of a step it is.
@@bbss4048 yes. should never be standard lumber with a deck built with spaced deck boards, (opposed to solid surface sundeck type deck with a slope and membrane/vinyl layer and soffit underneath)
You guys do amazing work! I wish crews here in the Phoenix area would post their work to see how they really operate and take care of details. It's hard to find a decent builder you can fully trust! Seeing your videos, I would be able to pass you a job and fully trust that all the small things will be perfect.
Good idea on the tape, but installing your fascia board like like will only invite water and debris to collect, rotting out the rim board. Also, you can't seriously leave that without a beam underneath. Even with new lumber, that cantilever from the house wall is huge. Nevermind the joists that were half to 3/4 the way rotted off.
She’s staying without a beam under, if any more of the joist were rotten I’d say we’d run a beam.. Wouldn’t leave it without stomping all over it. We put 4 of us up there @ 750 lbs and jumped all over. It’s solid. 🤷♂️
Honestly, I wouldn't leave it there if it had a bounce to it. I bought the material for post and beam in case it wasn't fit for it.. We've done a ton of work on this place, if they have any complaints we'll throw them under. I did a rad little beach front deck back before YT in 2016, I'd like something bigger / larger budget to show more.. But here's what we had. 😂
@@MattBangsWood Hey man, you have no idea of how much I like your work and you are a great figure to follow. However this time around I would please advice you to look and double check, maybe with a structural engineer to give you his opinion.. I do not know if you read about the balcony that sheared off with 13 people at Berkeley, six of them died(It was supposed to hold 60lbs per square ft) I am pretty sure what you did may hold 4 or 5 people easily but over time you do not know how will the owners make use of the balcony. I have read many stories of balconies that fail way under their designed capacity. Kind regards, and hope that you take my humble opinion the best way possible.
I agree on the fascia board trapping debris. I just pulled off a fascia board installed this way and was amazed how much collected between them.Rim board had started to deteriorate. Better to overhang composite deck board and use composite fascia board that you never have to paint.
I struggle to wrap my head around using the old joists and cantilever with that much water rot plus dry rot. I always be sure to over build decks as they need it for that one time life event of a graduation/wedding/family death etc. where everyone is so caught up no one thinks about overloading the deck with kegs, food. people etc.. I not only would not take the risk, I'm on the east coast and years back it happened down the Jersey shore on a College graduation where one large deck was above another and it caused quite a few deaths. I was also on one about this size and was sitting near a keg as I watched a heavy girl step out on it. I heard a weird noise and it went so quick that everyone's stories after was nuts in what they thought was happening as it went. some thought earthquake all kinds of things. That is high enough for death and severe injury, also cannot tell how bad they are right at and in the house. If it doesn't hold you will beef it up ? I recently turned down a deck I demo'ed as I realized the guy I subbed it off of wanted to use the old sub-par beaming. What if they get hit with such an event ? There should be no "if" it holds with decks. Seriously hope you consider this free advice.
Should be 5/4 pvc on rim not wood ,won’t last . flash rim joist and use 1/4 in pvc spacers to let water exit between rim joist and trim .That’s a nice detail but if not done properly it won’t last
Thank you for the video. I like the valley flashings on the roof shots at the end. I will use the cantilever explanation to fix roof rafter tails. I want extra strength for the structure. Keep up the good work.
I'm just doing a 48 x 16 deck replacement in WNY, and going with helical piers which will give me less than 1/2 the required concrete piers, and end up being able to bear far, far more weight for essentially about the same cost. Steel Fortress beams 7x2 will suport 2x10 joists. Also going with either the G-tape or the Zip. Yes, thought about skipping it, however after seeing the rot here, it would be penny-wise and pound foolish. I think if you wanted to avoid showing the end grain, you could have put the facia 1/2" lower, taped it, and then cut strips of Trex as your 1/4 -1/2 round pieces on top of that. I think you can use a router on Trex, so cut the factory rounded edge of a first strip of end grain cover, round off newly cut edge with a bullnose or round bit, cut that off, etc, etc.
Hi Matt I name is Don I'll watch your videos but when you were building that deck you're done a fine job putting that sealer on top of the floor joists but you made one mistake you should have taken all the floor joists check them for moisture content and then put a good latex paint with mold resistant chemical in it painted them all first inside and out then you would have had a perfect job because you wouldn't have got the mildew on it later. I've done this for years and it works out good but you got to use the spit test to check to see if the wood is dry a drop of water on it but goes in the wood it's ready for paint if it don't let it dry. Don
Ok, Fox is an elf! He can walk on stuff without actually putting weight on it. Giving him a nailer is just like him having an automatic bow. The Legolas of framing.
Ya the water always seems to find a place to sit /cause problems even with mods. I thought of the tape to late. My rim is doubled tho I got some paint on all the knots. Also seems like if u woulda jus do a 2x4 replacement with the sister would be stronger tho patience with removing properly is key.
@MattBangsWood Apologies if I missed the explanation, but how far into the wall are the sistered joists and did you have access to fasten them together inside the building envelope?
They used 2x for the decking? Wow. Oh, the hot tub. I see why now. I build my deck with my preferred moisture content which is a little on the wet side. I frame it in with joists set in and i kiln the deck with my large 50x50 tarp and a propane heater. I have the joists stable using temporary 2x4s every 4 feet to keep the joista straight and prevent twisting or bending when i dry them out. Them when i get my chosen moisture content i use painters tape and i run vlean lines 1 inche down on the joists. Then i use a liquid moisture barrier that i roll on in two coats, 1 light and then 1 medium. Then i use the tarp and kiln dry the whole thing for 40 minutes and then take off the supports for the joists i used to ensure they dont get twisted or bent. At that point I custom make bracketry for ALL inside corners in the decking by using a thicker steele plate that I put in the bender and form my custom braketry that will go everywhere joist hangers do not go. I make them so that they wrap onto the top of the yhe joist about 2 square inches and i beat them in enough ao they are flush when installing the decking. I ensurw that the seal for my moisture barrier isnt compromised by applying librally the liquid onto the tops of the braketry where i had to beat them in. I let it dry naturally without my heater method and usually at this point i take the day off or go to lunch. Then i come back and install all the railings, stringers, decking on stairs which i put a moisture barrier on stringers but just the tops and i coat them about a half inch around the edge going verticlly down. Then i make sure everything is good to go, i cut out any LED recessed lighting I am installing which i do on most every deck, and i burnseal the cutout and then put my membrane on the cutout and dry it quickly and coat it again and dry it quickly again with a small heat gun. Then i install the last of the bracketry on the stringers for thw stairs and the deck boards for them and i start laying my decking down with my preferred mositire content that i like and i attaxh with 2.5 inch deck screws and then after sinking in all them screws which I do quickly, i then throw my huge tarp over the whole deck and railings again and run the propane heater underneath the deck for a few hours to dry the deck out and cure everything really well. At that point i check that all the LED pighting is working and if I did the low voltage box and wiring for it then I tie it all in and all wires and make sure the system is tuned to turn on and off when needed. Then I make 2 tags for the deck with building materials, construction overview and lumber size dor replacement if needed down the line, paint/stain codes and brands and finishes, screw type and branding, and finish and lengths, and then warranty info for the deck and a seperate small section on the tag that lists the lighting, the brand, the power supply unfo amd size amd voltage/wattage, bulb size and output rage iptions and recommended lumens, and finally warranty info on that too, who to call or write to and the name and address of company and products used. I include two labels on the deck that both state all of this and my number and company name at the very bottom to call for questions, concerns, repairs, maintenance, or upgrades. Then i make two itemized reciepts/bill of sales to the customer, one made of rag paper that is thick and laminated and I include all the blueprints, materials, info on troubleshooting, warranty info, the codes for paint and stain and branda again, and the lighting used and bulbs and lumens, wattage, voltage, and the transformer info, pight fixtures info, and wire size and all that good stuff. Then lastly the pricing is on the itemized final copy only with all the totals and grand total included and the warranty info is all on the bottom with the length of warranty and full replacement or repair stipulations and what voida warranty and all that is on that. The two i give them are usually two pages front and back on thick rag paper, and the other is 4 pages on regular thin paper and of corse i give them a few copies for the insurance people if needed or the next home owners if needed or whatever. The other one i laminate and it is on rag paper with no pricing info because it is mainly for just knowing what is what and what materials are used and how to repair, when to repair, and how the warranty works. The second one is more for lawyers, insurance adjusters, mortgage company, bankers, loan experts, or family members giving a loan or paying for the son or daughters home improvement which is all too common. When i install the tags on the decks I buid I make abthickly laminated and uv reaistant rag paper with bold letters and I install it on the underaide of the decking and it just has materials and sizes and lengths and hardware used amd paint used and everything needed tobunderatqnd what to fix it with if nessesary or where to buy things for it. I also include paunt/stain with the brand amd color code and finish on the plastic jar provided to them by me and filled with their products for touch up or repairs. I also inch a few small artist brushes that i attach to the side with velcro hook and loop. It is a very neat way of doing things. I include the everything for them and give them about a quart of touch up for each deck color and a pint of the white if a white is used for the painting of the rails. They get all the info they need to buy more so i don't worry too kuch about more of a need for white than the deck color uaually. I do what i do and it works. I attaxh the lavels with this info in short onto the bottom of the deck and they get the other. it is also saved and they have the paperwork too with coata and in full detail qith blueprints. in total my standard is two short labels on the deck attached to it on opposite sides underneath and then one full length laminated on rag paper and thick and then one copy with prices foe them with copies of that last one on regular paper or everyone else who should need to have it. This makes things very professional and inclusing extra bulbs for the lighting in brand new packages and the touch up oits i provide they absolutely love me for it and think it is so smart. Its food that they know too that i dont force them to use me for rwpairs and upgrades in ten years and that they can call whoevwr and i am not hiding the materials and the info on thwir deck i installed so that it is just easier to contqct me and i automatically get the buianess not because i am good and gice quality work at a reasonable price but because i have the knowledge of thw materials and other do not. The cuatomer appreciates me being open and honest like that and i think i get a lot more business by making sure they will be okay in any event even if i am not the one around. 😊
Where u raised that 2"x10" board to hide the end of decking , would it have been a good idea to place zip tape on the inside of 2×10 overlapping joist tape?
Matt, what do journeymen framers make in California? I'm a Texas and Louisiana based framer with almost 13 years in, was just curious because I know everything is so much more expensive in California.
Did you drill into the end cap by each hoist to confirm the length inside the home? I’ve done some sketch stuff but this one would keep me up at night. Throw that beam nicely with decorative corners and lights to make it fancy like. Keep banging
sorry when my terming isn´t on point, but is there a gap between the white outside board and the restored long front board ? you taped the two beams with zip but screwed the outside boards right to the others. can´t water get stucked there as well ? excuse me if i messed smthg. anyways great work there
@@MattBangsWood yeah i get it ive had this exact same thing bite me had to completely start over i hope it turns out well for ya thank you for replying really enjoy your work
Wish I would have seen this a month ago. Just had some total jabroni rebuild my deck for me and he did a terrible job. I would have put the zip tape on myself if I'd known about it.
Good job on this one, Matt! Just wondering, how old was the deck? It's interesting, that some of the pieces were pretty good, some were literally dust. Take care.
@MattBangsWood I just did the exact same thing on my back deck! It's mahogany which is a bitch in itself to maintain let alone find and replace. The guy who built used pool liner to create the membrane but it's completely rotten thru and to make matters worse he pinned the pool liner down with big ass staples. Before I used zip tape, I thought about using ice and water/grace tape but it's very expensive. I love that you can repair sections of the joists too, I will likely use that so thanks. Also, I don't know if you reply to these comments or if anyone else can help but I plan on using IPE oil for my deck, should I put a coat of sanding sealer down before I sand, or will that effect the oil when I put on after?
I want to on a larger scale / bigger budgeted project.. When I say this place was done on a budget.. I mean, we might have taken a loss, I'd have to run numbers. We'll see!
Hey man, you have no idea of how much I like your work and you are a great figure to follow. However this time around I would please advice you to look and double check, maybe with a structural engineer to give you his opinion.. I do not know if you read about the balcony that sheared off with 13 people at Berkeley, six of them died(It was supposed to hold 60lbs per square ft) I am pretty sure what you did may hold 4 or 5 people easily but over time you do not know how will the owners make use of the balcony. I have read many stories of balconies that fail way under their designed capacity. Kind regards, and hope that you take my humble opinion the best way possible.
Bro, why did you use the table saw that way? I could hear and see the pitch and stress caused on the saw. I love the zip tape tip though! That stuff comes in real handy. I even used zip system in a small shed I’m building!
Gotta question that sistering action on a deck. When those 90 yr olds pass away and a younger couple moves in and has a party, your asking for a disaster and front page headlines as it collapses from shoddy if not illegal build
Decks are the most dangerous things people build wrong! lvl rimboard hangars and threw bolts and nasty treks decks. should do it out of redwood. i have helped build many decks and 2 had hot tubs on em they take alot more than most builders care to do. i like the bitch on the joist like wrapping the windows. You actually put 22 1/2 on the skirting that is what's up.
I don’t agree with the tape idea, you are screwing threw it water will indefinitely penetrate with absolutely no way to dry which will cause mold and mildew which will eat threw the center out. Same concept as undercoating a car one chip or nick cause more corrosion then if it wasn’t treated. For longevity spacing is key as well as being sealed not painted, you should never paint a deck or it’s framing, same concept it has no weigh to dry!
I think i would have cut the joises back 1.5 inches from wall. add a band and then bolt the ledger onto that. but if you dont want any posts then i guess this is the way to go
I always told my sons these rules for life . Don’t smoke pot , don’t knock any of these broads up and for the love of Christ don’t ever ever buy a house with a wooden deck . Ask me how I know . Good video !
@@MattBangsWood well, more than a mistake, it is more something aesthetic, when you start to put the ridge cap on one side, you have to continue and finish on the other side, and there what they did was start on the two edges and finish in the center of the roof. Thank you for showing us the great work.
why not just install all-new 2x10s? you don't know how many people will be on this thing in the future. these old people could afford a new one. they are tree farmers. they have tons of money im sure.
deck look like shizeit to begin with.. i would have tore it down and re do it. as much as i love cantilever with no obstructions below it.. I don't trust them. Unless the beams are coming from the house s LVL and go a rather long length such as the lengh of the house in which they hang from or are Iron I beams that do the same. 2to1 rule Minumum i mean! (6 foot out =12 foot in)3 to 1 is good as Matt says here. I personally rather go al lthe way when the house is actually built so i can have like a 10 plus foot out Deck. If i put a hot but on it anyway I would put framing under it regarless. A lot of weight. Rather be sure/safe than sorry cause i was some cheap ass 1/2 fasting it. as for the hot tub. Yes put a nice new one in with all the bells and whistles. Your 90 or something You live once. .do it right at this point if you havent :-) 6:12 LOL they would leave it? morons to say the least. If its stripped like this DO it right for the love of building and that later on satisfaction Rain can kiss it later on ..*my rear LOL 7:28 your in with the big boys. Its time you get a contractor "SawStop" saw
Tear it down and you're ledgering up against building in order to attach again. Thus, cutting the side of their home apart into the ancient vinyl siding. Can of works situation.
The husband told me all about the hot tub that he had there, said he's not sure where it went though. We took it out last time we were there. Awesome couple here..
@@MattBangsWood Just thought of something perhaps you can calculate what i need and if it nees to be an LVL or something else. i have 4 posts 4x4 holding a 32 foot deck across the bottom 7.5 fee between each. My thing is i want to use the space under it but cant fit what i want between 2 post. so post 2 and 3 in the middle i want out and need to know what beam to put across that span for the deck. The deck currently is doubled up beam but 4 Joists at 16 feet each and 2doubled up and the other 2 doubled up. To thold them the Beam in the middle holds the Middle section.
@@SuperJimmyBennett first you need a soil test if that can take the load. Then you need bigger posts and well start with or go back to 1. Can that post in the ground go deeper in the ground if I put more weight on it?
yo matt you down widf da .transgender rights movement right matt????????????????likw you company would hire a transgender person based on there skills not there looks right hint hint hint .law say you know
Not every job is a high dollar custom build, we work with people on all sorts of different budgets.
The next project we've got is CRAZY.. My favorite project of my career. It's going to be insane, I hope you guys are ready to see something that's never been seen before on this platform.
I'll give you a three-word hint: Cliffside, Windmill, Repairs.
Im excited for this windmill job. Stay safe out there spiderman. 🤘
I just saw there was a new MATT BANGS WOOD video, so, I stopped what I was doing, to watch. Is my life over ?? Hey from Louisville Kentucky !
Hey man, you have no idea of how much I like your work and you are a great figure to follow. However this time around I would please advice you to look and double check, maybe with a structural engineer to give you his opinion.. I do not know if you read about the balcony that sheared off with 13 people at Berkeley, six of them died(It was supposed to hold 60lbs per square ft)
I am pretty sure what you did may hold 4 or 5 people easily but over time you do not know how will the owners make use of the balcony.
I have read many stories of balconies that fail way under their designed capacity.
Kind regards, and hope that you take my humble opinion the best way possible.
Fantastic job. Glad to see people who still have integrity and consideration for the elder generations. Keep up the good work.
I live in Karachi Pakistan and I like your comment if you don't mind
You do do nice work and you’re correct in using tape on joists, with that being said always, always overbuild when deck is not ground level. Supports are a must especially since the existing joists were compromised, rotted, cut back, repaired, with no idea how many people will walk out on it. Sistering on an existing joist is fine but cantilevered out that far with no support underneath is just plain dangerous. My opinion may not matter though but over 40 years as a carpenter / deck builder its always better to be safe than sorry.
I cannot begin to tell you how many deck builds I see that neglect to install some type of waterproof tape on top of the joists. So glad to see that you know how important of a step it is.
Even if it's treated lumber this still is needed?
@@bbss4048 yes. should never be standard lumber with a deck built with spaced deck boards, (opposed to solid surface sundeck type deck with a slope and membrane/vinyl layer and soffit underneath)
You guys do amazing work! I wish crews here in the Phoenix area would post their work to see how they really operate and take care of details. It's hard to find a decent builder you can fully trust! Seeing your videos, I would be able to pass you a job and fully trust that all the small things will be perfect.
Started using joist tape on all our projects this year!! Awesome stuff! 🙌⚒ future proofing all the way!!
Good idea on the tape, but installing your fascia board like like will only invite water and debris to collect, rotting out the rim board.
Also, you can't seriously leave that without a beam underneath. Even with new lumber, that cantilever from the house wall is huge. Nevermind the joists that were half to 3/4 the way rotted off.
She’s staying without a beam under, if any more of the joist were rotten I’d say we’d run a beam.. Wouldn’t leave it without stomping all over it.
We put 4 of us up there @ 750 lbs and jumped all over. It’s solid. 🤷♂️
@@MattBangsWood alright then. Hard to believe, but I believe you. Lol
Honestly, I wouldn't leave it there if it had a bounce to it. I bought the material for post and beam in case it wasn't fit for it..
We've done a ton of work on this place, if they have any complaints we'll throw them under.
I did a rad little beach front deck back before YT in 2016, I'd like something bigger / larger budget to show more.. But here's what we had. 😂
@@MattBangsWood Hey man, you have no idea of how much I like your work and you are a great figure to follow. However this time around I would please advice you to look and double check, maybe with a structural engineer to give you his opinion.. I do not know if you read about the balcony that sheared off with 13 people at Berkeley, six of them died(It was supposed to hold 60lbs per square ft)
I am pretty sure what you did may hold 4 or 5 people easily but over time you do not know how will the owners make use of the balcony.
I have read many stories of balconies that fail way under their designed capacity.
Kind regards, and hope that you take my humble opinion the best way possible.
I agree on the fascia board trapping debris. I just pulled off a fascia board installed this way and was amazed how much collected between them.Rim board had started to deteriorate. Better to overhang composite deck board and use composite fascia board that you never have to paint.
Every time I watch one of your videos, I learn something new.
I missed this somehow when it came out last year. Great video!
great job Matt ... this channel of yours has sooo much good stuff. and it will continue to be interesting wherever you go
Looking good Mat.
I struggle to wrap my head around using the old joists and cantilever with that much water rot plus dry rot. I always be sure to over build decks as they need it for that one time life event of a graduation/wedding/family death etc. where everyone is so caught up no one thinks about overloading the deck with kegs, food. people etc.. I not only would not take the risk, I'm on the east coast and years back it happened down the Jersey shore on a College graduation where one large deck was above another and it caused quite a few deaths. I was also on one about this size and was sitting near a keg as I watched a heavy girl step out on it. I heard a weird noise and it went so quick that everyone's stories after was nuts in what they thought was happening as it went. some thought earthquake all kinds of things. That is high enough for death and severe injury, also cannot tell how bad they are right at and in the house. If it doesn't hold you will beef it up ? I recently turned down a deck I demo'ed as I realized the guy I subbed it off of wanted to use the old sub-par beaming. What if they get hit with such an event ? There should be no "if" it holds with decks. Seriously hope you consider this free advice.
Should be 5/4 pvc on rim not wood ,won’t last . flash rim joist and use 1/4 in pvc spacers to let water exit between rim joist and trim .That’s a nice detail but if not done properly it won’t last
Nice looking pres. Roof, must use the new invisible roof vents.
Thank you for the video. I like the valley flashings on the roof shots at the end.
I will use the cantilever explanation to fix roof rafter tails. I want extra strength for the structure.
Keep up the good work.
I live in Karachi Pakistan and I like your comment send 10 month old
You guys are a Class act! Thanks for all the vids.
I did this too for pool deck but before zip tape was available here. Used the stuff for door/window sills
Amazing use of Zip tape
I'm just doing a 48 x 16 deck replacement in WNY, and going with helical piers which will give me less than 1/2 the required concrete piers, and end up being able to bear far, far more weight for essentially about the same cost.
Steel Fortress beams 7x2 will suport 2x10 joists. Also going with either the G-tape or the Zip. Yes, thought about skipping it, however after seeing the rot here, it would be penny-wise and pound foolish. I think if you wanted to avoid showing the end grain, you could have put the facia 1/2" lower, taped it, and then cut strips of Trex as your 1/4 -1/2 round pieces on top of that. I think you can use a router on Trex, so cut the factory rounded edge of a first strip of end grain cover, round off newly cut edge with a bullnose or round bit, cut that off, etc, etc.
I would look into using Epdm instead of the tape on a job that big. Epdm is the rubber roofing material they use on commercial flat roofs
Hi Matt I name is Don I'll watch your videos but when you were building that deck you're done a fine job putting that sealer on top of the floor joists but you made one mistake you should have taken all the floor joists check them for moisture content and then put a good latex paint with mold resistant chemical in it painted them all first inside and out then you would have had a perfect job because you wouldn't have got the mildew on it later. I've done this for years and it works out good but you got to use the spit test to check to see if the wood is dry a drop of water on it but goes in the wood it's ready for paint if it don't let it dry.
Don
I think he said he was going to be painting them in the next video.
Great job fellas. Is the material's pressure treated?
You do beautiful work!!
nice work, thanks for the video, however I would intstall a rim facia/ joist that promotes drainage, not impedes it
Whats up Matt i was watching another video on youtube and noticed you were in it!
Nice job!
Ok, Fox is an elf! He can walk on stuff without actually putting weight on it.
Giving him a nailer is just like him having an automatic bow. The Legolas of framing.
Dude weighs 62 lbs.
I live in Karachi Pakistan and I like your comment
@@MattBangsWood I live in Karachi Pakistan and I follow your channel TH-cam
Ya the water always seems to find a place to sit /cause problems even with mods. I thought of the tape to late. My rim is doubled tho I got some paint on all the knots. Also seems like if u woulda jus do a 2x4 replacement with the sister would be stronger tho patience with removing properly is key.
Very nice job and a lot of long term value added. Where do you work out of mostly?
You could see the joist shifting as they walked across it when they were in fast forward. It looked like it was doing the wave.
Very beautiful and great job as always thank you
@MattBangsWood Apologies if I missed the explanation, but how far into the wall are the sistered joists and did you have access to fasten them together inside the building envelope?
They used 2x for the decking? Wow.
Oh, the hot tub. I see why now.
I build my deck with my preferred moisture content which is a little on the wet side. I frame it in with joists set in and i kiln the deck with my large 50x50 tarp and a propane heater. I have the joists stable using temporary 2x4s every 4 feet to keep the joista straight and prevent twisting or bending when i dry them out. Them when i get my chosen moisture content i use painters tape and i run vlean lines 1 inche down on the joists. Then i use a liquid moisture barrier that i roll on in two coats, 1 light and then 1 medium. Then i use the tarp and kiln dry the whole thing for 40 minutes and then take off the supports for the joists i used to ensure they dont get twisted or bent. At that point I custom make bracketry for ALL inside corners in the decking by using a thicker steele plate that I put in the bender and form my custom braketry that will go everywhere joist hangers do not go. I make them so that they wrap onto the top of the yhe joist about 2 square inches and i beat them in enough ao they are flush when installing the decking. I ensurw that the seal for my moisture barrier isnt compromised by applying librally the liquid onto the tops of the braketry where i had to beat them in. I let it dry naturally without my heater method and usually at this point i take the day off or go to lunch. Then i come back and install all the railings, stringers, decking on stairs which i put a moisture barrier on stringers but just the tops and i coat them about a half inch around the edge going verticlly down.
Then i make sure everything is good to go, i cut out any LED recessed lighting I am installing which i do on most every deck, and i burnseal the cutout and then put my membrane on the cutout and dry it quickly and coat it again and dry it quickly again with a small heat gun. Then i install the last of the bracketry on the stringers for thw stairs and the deck boards for them and i start laying my decking down with my preferred mositire content that i like and i attaxh with 2.5 inch deck screws and then after sinking in all them screws which I do quickly, i then throw my huge tarp over the whole deck and railings again and run the propane heater underneath the deck for a few hours to dry the deck out and cure everything really well.
At that point i check that all the LED pighting is working and if I did the low voltage box and wiring for it then I tie it all in and all wires and make sure the system is tuned to turn on and off when needed. Then I make 2 tags for the deck with building materials, construction overview and lumber size dor replacement if needed down the line, paint/stain codes and brands and finishes, screw type and branding, and finish and lengths, and then warranty info for the deck and a seperate small section on the tag that lists the lighting, the brand, the power supply unfo amd size amd voltage/wattage, bulb size and output rage iptions and recommended lumens, and finally warranty info on that too, who to call or write to and the name and address of company and products used.
I include two labels on the deck that both state all of this and my number and company name at the very bottom to call for questions, concerns, repairs, maintenance, or upgrades. Then i make two itemized reciepts/bill of sales to the customer, one made of rag paper that is thick and laminated and I include all the blueprints, materials, info on troubleshooting, warranty info, the codes for paint and stain and branda again, and the lighting used and bulbs and lumens, wattage, voltage, and the transformer info, pight fixtures info, and wire size and all that good stuff. Then lastly the pricing is on the itemized final copy only with all the totals and grand total included and the warranty info is all on the bottom with the length of warranty and full replacement or repair stipulations and what voida warranty and all that is on that. The two i give them are usually two pages front and back on thick rag paper, and the other is 4 pages on regular thin paper and of corse i give them a few copies for the insurance people if needed or the next home owners if needed or whatever. The other one i laminate and it is on rag paper with no pricing info because it is mainly for just knowing what is what and what materials are used and how to repair, when to repair, and how the warranty works. The second one is more for lawyers, insurance adjusters, mortgage company, bankers, loan experts, or family members giving a loan or paying for the son or daughters home improvement which is all too common.
When i install the tags on the decks I buid I make abthickly laminated and uv reaistant rag paper with bold letters and I install it on the underaide of the decking and it just has materials and sizes and lengths and hardware used amd paint used and everything needed tobunderatqnd what to fix it with if nessesary or where to buy things for it.
I also include paunt/stain with the brand amd color code and finish on the plastic jar provided to them by me and filled with their products for touch up or repairs. I also inch a few small artist brushes that i attach to the side with velcro hook and loop. It is a very neat way of doing things. I include the everything for them and give them about a quart of touch up for each deck color and a pint of the white if a white is used for the painting of the rails. They get all the info they need to buy more so i don't worry too kuch about more of a need for white than the deck color uaually. I do what i do and it works.
I attaxh the lavels with this info in short onto the bottom of the deck and they get the other. it is also saved and they have the paperwork too with coata and in full detail qith blueprints. in total my standard is two short labels on the deck attached to it on opposite sides underneath and then one full length laminated on rag paper and thick and then one copy with prices foe them with copies of that last one on regular paper or everyone else who should need to have it.
This makes things very professional and inclusing extra bulbs for the lighting in brand new packages and the touch up oits i provide they absolutely love me for it and think it is so smart. Its food that they know too that i dont force them to use me for rwpairs and upgrades in ten years and that they can call whoevwr and i am not hiding the materials and the info on thwir deck i installed so that it is just easier to contqct me and i automatically get the buianess not because i am good and gice quality work at a reasonable price but because i have the knowledge of thw materials and other do not. The cuatomer appreciates me being open and honest like that and i think i get a lot more business by making sure they will be okay in any event even if i am not the one around.
😊
Great job !!! I love the videos
Would it bea bad idea ta put that stuff ona all wood deck?that stuff bein the joist tape....
That roof is sweet.
I personally think it would look better with posts.
Where u raised that 2"x10" board to hide the end of decking , would it have been a good idea to place zip tape on the inside of 2×10 overlapping joist tape?
Matt, what do journeymen framers make in California? I'm a Texas and Louisiana based framer with almost 13 years in, was just curious because I know everything is so much more expensive in California.
🙂 Great Job - Good Tip - Nice Video 👍
Would you recommend that table saw, or is there another brand you prefer?
Great tips thank you. 👌 🏴
Hold on I’m confused, builder from New Zealand here do you not use treated timber over there?
Any chance the eat sleep frame repeat hoodie is gonna be back in stock soon? Has said out of stock the last couple times I've looked.
Wow. That's awesome.
Did you drill into the end cap by each hoist to confirm the length inside the home? I’ve done some sketch stuff but this one would keep me up at night. Throw that beam nicely with decorative corners and lights to make it fancy like. Keep banging
I was wondering same thing.
sorry when my terming isn´t on point, but is there a gap between the white outside board and the restored long front board ?
you taped the two beams with zip but screwed the outside boards right to the others.
can´t water get stucked there as well ? excuse me if i messed smthg.
anyways great work there
WOW did not expect this from this channel ive been watching your vids for awhile that job is a demo and rebuild with posts
I do 20-30 things a year and show 5-6. Without tearing into the siding, this was our option.
@@MattBangsWood yeah i get it ive had this exact same thing bite me had to completely start over i hope it turns out well for ya thank you for replying really enjoy your work
Not a fan of those architectural shingles when it comes to installing solar array attachments
Does foil tape not last?
Wish I would have seen this a month ago. Just had some total jabroni rebuild my deck for me and he did a terrible job. I would have put the zip tape on myself if I'd known about it.
What kind of air compressor do you recommend for framing?
Good job on this one, Matt! Just wondering, how old was the deck? It's interesting, that some of the pieces were pretty good, some were literally dust. Take care.
1973 it was built. Wood around here lasts for decades since we don’t get rain. Took 50 years for it to rot.
Seems like you cut the 45 on the sistered joist in the wrong direction.
What happened to the shed build?
Beautiful roof but I would like to see a cricket behind the wide chimney.
It was built up a bit, allowing slope off to the sides. Not a full blown cricket though.
@MattBangsWood I just did the exact same thing on my back deck! It's mahogany which is a bitch in itself to maintain let alone find and replace. The guy who built used pool liner to create the membrane but it's completely rotten thru and to make matters worse he pinned the pool liner down with big ass staples. Before I used zip tape, I thought about using ice and water/grace tape but it's very expensive. I love that you can repair sections of the joists too, I will likely use that so thanks.
Also, I don't know if you reply to these comments or if anyone else can help but I plan on using IPE oil for my deck, should I put a coat of sanding sealer down before I sand, or will that effect the oil when I put on after?
You should do a deck building walkthrough
I want to on a larger scale / bigger budgeted project.. When I say this place was done on a budget.. I mean, we might have taken a loss, I'd have to run numbers.
We'll see!
Hey man, you have no idea of how much I like your work and you are a great figure to follow. However this time around I would please advice you to look and double check, maybe with a structural engineer to give you his opinion.. I do not know if you read about the balcony that sheared off with 13 people at Berkeley, six of them died(It was supposed to hold 60lbs per square ft)
I am pretty sure what you did may hold 4 or 5 people easily but over time you do not know how will the owners make use of the balcony.
I have read many stories of balconies that fail way under their designed capacity.
Kind regards, and hope that you take my humble opinion the best way possible.
Is that untreated wood?
Yup, no ground contact. Painted and closed up. It’s what was here before & what most new construction utilized for above ground decks.
@@MattBangsWood with the tape and paint should be good. Nice, not needing to wait weeks to paint either!
When the roof was done did they do the 5/15? Looks like they just did 5 the entire time
5/15 the whole time.
@@MattBangsWood nice. The company im with has done the most in wny n it amazes me how many people don't know the proper way to install those shingles
What screws were you using? Just the standard 2.5" t-25 deck screws?
I would think 3inch deck screws would be more common than 2.5 inch.
Do u guys use treated joist for decks where ur at? Just asking cause they look like Doug fir joist.
I was wondering the same thing ...
Long term clients ? They are over 90
Damn mat
This project looks like amature hour
Budget hour!
@@MattBangsWood
Blue light special…
I’ve heard of u b4
Ive heard of you too. 💔
@@MattBangsWood
show me sumthin I don’t know :)
Is that all I'm here for? New learning experiences? 😂 I can open a beer bottle with no hands?
Can you give the dimensions on that scaffolding
3x6'8" walk-through, around $150 / set up.
I would have backed my trailor up close and throw all the old deck on it , save a lot of time ,
And also instead of taking all the deck boards with a hammer I’d use my gutster it makes my job easier
I'm here!
You're quick, I give you that.
@@MattBangsWood only in TH-cam land is that a compliment 😅😅😅
I have that bell clicked!
Bro, why did you use the table saw that way? I could hear and see the pitch and stress caused on the saw. I love the zip tape tip though! That stuff comes in real handy. I even used zip system in a small shed I’m building!
Hey MBW what was your dad doing at 7:15?
Gotta question that sistering action on a deck. When those 90 yr olds pass away and a younger couple moves in and has a party, your asking for a disaster and front page headlines as it collapses from shoddy if not illegal build
Decks are the most dangerous things people build wrong! lvl rimboard hangars and threw bolts and nasty treks decks. should do it out of redwood. i have helped build many decks and 2 had hot tubs on em they take alot more than most builders care to do. i like the bitch on the joist like wrapping the windows. You actually put 22 1/2 on the skirting that is what's up.
better to let the tape go over the edges...
Who is that on your arm?
My grandfather's Coast Guard portrait.
Share your music with us, song titles in the description.
Hello from To'Hajiilee New Mexico
Water the most destructive force in the world
I don’t agree with the tape idea, you are screwing threw it water will indefinitely penetrate with absolutely no way to dry which will cause mold and mildew which will eat threw the center out. Same concept as undercoating a car one chip or nick cause more corrosion then if it wasn’t treated. For longevity spacing is key as well as being sealed not painted, you should never paint a deck or it’s framing, same concept it has no weigh to dry!
I think i would have cut the joises back 1.5 inches from wall. add a band and then bolt the ledger onto that. but if you dont want any posts then i guess this is the way to go
I always told my sons these rules for life . Don’t smoke pot , don’t knock any of these broads up and for the love of Christ don’t ever ever buy a house with a wooden deck . Ask me how I know . Good video !
LOL.
Few screws holding those sisters on a 1/3 rotted cantilever...nope. Not worth the risk
Law of Construction… Those who swing their hammer towards their face will eventually find it. ;@
That scaffold needs a competent person. It’s not fully planked.
Am I the only one who saw the error on the ridge cap of the roof?😃
Where? Lol
@@MattBangsWood well, more than a mistake, it is more something aesthetic, when you start to put the ridge cap on one side, you have to continue and finish on the other side, and there what they did was start on the two edges and finish in the center of the roof.
Thank you for showing us the great work.
Dam,why r some people so petty with their comments.the one comment about why u showing the roof.
They're confused, unsure. I had a feeling people would have question there.
Dang matt is a cutie!
🥸
The Cantilever should be 3/1 not 2/1....
What if there is a load bearing wall on the end of the 2:1?
I just played you in cod
No gloves???
Hi
why not just install all-new 2x10s? you don't know how many people will be on this thing in the future. these old people could afford a new one. they are tree farmers. they have tons of money im sure.
Assuming everyone has tons of money is a bad way of doing business..
I could just build them a new house? 😅
@@MattBangsWood Building a deck that could crash to the ground if 5 people wanted to hang out on it is a bad way to build.
If a customer can't afford to pay for a deck that is strong and safe then they shouldn't have the project worked on.
deck look like shizeit to begin with.. i would have tore it down and re do it. as much as i love cantilever with no obstructions below it.. I don't trust them. Unless the beams are coming from the house s LVL and go a rather long length such as the lengh of the house in which they hang from or are Iron I beams that do the same. 2to1 rule Minumum i mean! (6 foot out =12 foot in)3 to 1 is good as Matt says here. I personally rather go al lthe way when the house is actually built so i can have like a 10 plus foot out Deck. If i put a hot but on it anyway I would put framing under it regarless. A lot of weight. Rather be sure/safe than sorry cause i was some cheap ass 1/2 fasting it. as for the hot tub. Yes put a nice new one in with all the bells and whistles. Your 90 or something You live once. .do it right at this point if you havent :-) 6:12 LOL they would leave it? morons to say the least. If its stripped like this DO it right for the love of building and that later on satisfaction Rain can kiss it later on ..*my rear LOL 7:28 your in with the big boys. Its time you get a contractor "SawStop" saw
Tear it down and you're ledgering up against building in order to attach again. Thus, cutting the side of their home apart into the ancient vinyl siding. Can of works situation.
The husband told me all about the hot tub that he had there, said he's not sure where it went though. We took it out last time we were there. Awesome couple here..
@@MattBangsWood Just thought of something perhaps you can calculate what i need and if it nees to be an LVL or something else. i have 4 posts 4x4 holding a 32 foot deck across the bottom 7.5 fee between each. My thing is i want to use the space under it but cant fit what i want between 2 post. so post 2 and 3 in the middle i want out and need to know what beam to put across that span for the deck. The deck currently is doubled up beam but 4 Joists at 16 feet each and 2doubled up and the other 2 doubled up. To thold them the Beam in the middle holds the Middle section.
@@SuperJimmyBennett first you need a soil test if that can take the load. Then you need bigger posts and well start with or go back to 1. Can that post in the ground go deeper in the ground if I put more weight on it?
Yooooooooooooo
Hi.
yo matt you down widf da .transgender rights movement right matt????????????????likw you company would hire a transgender person based on there skills not there looks right hint hint hint .law say you know