As always, a joy to watch. Some thoughts: Another way to time 1A is, if I recall, 3A and 4A should be moving in opposite directions mid-way through their cycle, and at mid way they're moving a the fastest rate they'll descend/ascend which means the change on a dial indicator is much more prominent. When the two are equal then 1A should be exactly at TDC. It may be more trouble than it's worth to measure it that way, even if you had both pistons lifting precisely equal blocks/rods to measure coming out of the block. But it is a different take on TDC measurement. Re the gaskets. I try to measure the surfaces or scan any gaskets I get so I can turn them into DFX drawings in CAD. That way in a pinch anytime in the future they can be printed in TPU or TPE which have proven to be fantastic gasket materials - far better than paper. If I couldn't get the upgraded JHDT ePTFE gaskets over shim-stock, I'd sure probably consider a TPU gasket assuming one had a print-bed large enough. Might be worth having those DFX files on hand - even if you wanted to send some gasket material, even sheet TPU, through a home hobby CNC vinyl cutting machine like Cricut or Sihouette. Speaking of CAD, I don't recall the specs for those tools being in Kirby's book. It'd be really nice to create some CAD models to make recreation of them easier. (Hint hint). 🙂 Would those timing covers be worth rescuing via some of that low-temp melt aluminum brazing material bonded to the gasket surface instead of epoxy - then running the surface by a cutter on a milling machine? Lastly some of that water pump hardware seems to get some water exposure. Do you think it would be worth putting together a SS Bolt kit for some parts of the engine that aren't in need of high torque specs?
i'm voting the dial indicator because it's what i learned with to do the tdc function and i perhaps saw a NEW tensioner? i am 'working' on a delrin unit design because the factory unit is nla at last check and a nos unit...well...it's old and although not the victim of heat cycling it is the victim of time and ozone/oxygen exposure which may or not be a concern. the cams...although way too much money and time involved with what i have are another matter in that there is a lot of mass being driven by a very long chain and at the top of the rev range things get a bit 'wiggly' in the synch department and that leads me back to chain tension and that factory tensioner. thoughts?
Lurker here, as I hope to acquire one of these in the future! Question, is the hardware on this Metric? Standard? Whitworth? Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the head/cam video. Thank you
Great video as always. However, on the center shaft there is a dot, visible from the top, it is mark of the top dead center, not visible in your case. Do you set it up in a different way later that isn't visible in the video?
Excellent detailed work as always.. you almost panic if you sent this job to a general machine shop.. if they haven't done one before you and then look at your videos, I would start crying.. as you know I've been licensed for almost 50 years. I would probably just have all the mill work done and perform the final assembly.. but then you know what the shop would say if it pukes later.. thanks again Bob..
Superb video - further highlighting how specialized a job the V12 rebuild is - in skills, knowledge and tools...
As always, a joy to watch. Some thoughts: Another way to time 1A is, if I recall, 3A and 4A should be moving in opposite directions mid-way through their cycle, and at mid way they're moving a the fastest rate they'll descend/ascend which means the change on a dial indicator is much more prominent. When the two are equal then 1A should be exactly at TDC. It may be more trouble than it's worth to measure it that way, even if you had both pistons lifting precisely equal blocks/rods to measure coming out of the block. But it is a different take on TDC measurement.
Re the gaskets. I try to measure the surfaces or scan any gaskets I get so I can turn them into DFX drawings in CAD. That way in a pinch anytime in the future they can be printed in TPU or TPE which have proven to be fantastic gasket materials - far better than paper. If I couldn't get the upgraded JHDT ePTFE gaskets over shim-stock, I'd sure probably consider a TPU gasket assuming one had a print-bed large enough. Might be worth having those DFX files on hand - even if you wanted to send some gasket material, even sheet TPU, through a home hobby CNC vinyl cutting machine like Cricut or Sihouette.
Speaking of CAD, I don't recall the specs for those tools being in Kirby's book. It'd be really nice to create some CAD models to make recreation of them easier. (Hint hint). 🙂
Would those timing covers be worth rescuing via some of that low-temp melt aluminum brazing material bonded to the gasket surface instead of epoxy - then running the surface by a cutter on a milling machine?
Lastly some of that water pump hardware seems to get some water exposure. Do you think it would be worth putting together a SS Bolt kit for some parts of the engine that aren't in need of high torque specs?
Bob, excellent instructional video. Luv the step-by-step descriptions as well as the heads-up on what to watch out for. Please keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
Very good - well done for taking the time to make the video and share your expertise.
That's a beautiful looking build.
Great content, very much appreciated
Thank you for sharing your experiences!
Same to you Mike. Your car looks amazing.
i'm voting the dial indicator because it's what i learned with to do the tdc function and i perhaps saw a NEW tensioner? i am 'working' on a delrin unit design because the factory unit is nla at last check and a nos unit...well...it's old and although not the victim of heat cycling it is the victim of time and ozone/oxygen exposure which may or not be a concern.
the cams...although way too much money and time involved with what i have are another matter in that there is a lot of mass being driven by a very long chain and at the top of the rev range things get a bit 'wiggly' in the synch department and that leads me back to chain tension and that factory tensioner. thoughts?
Lurker here, as I hope to acquire one of these in the future! Question, is the hardware on this Metric? Standard? Whitworth? Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the head/cam video. Thank you
Yes and yes
Great video as always. However, on the center shaft there is a dot, visible from the top, it is mark of the top dead center, not visible in your case. Do you set it up in a different way later that isn't visible in the video?
Excellent detailed work as always.. you almost panic if you sent this job to a general machine shop.. if they haven't done one before you and then look at your videos, I would start crying.. as you know I've been licensed for almost 50 years. I would probably just have all the mill work done and perform the final assembly.. but then you know what the shop would say if it pukes later.. thanks again Bob..
Thanks 👍
The front gasket & water pump paper gaskets that comes with these kits seem so thin. Do you add any gasket sealer before putting them on?
Yes, Hylomar.
Soooo what happened to th3 front cover? Was it a bad casting or was there corrosion?
someone had taken a Sawzall to it to get it off because of a frozen stud. Pretty ugly.