Great video, thanks for sharing. After doing this exercise a few hundred times myself, might have some useful tips: 1) Take the opportunity to clean all threads in the head and on the bolts, inspect and roll the pushrods on a flat surface to check straightness. 2) I usually use WellSeal on the gaskets, just as a matter of course 3) I placed the paper gaskets under the metal cups which hold the crush rings to get the recommended crush depth 4) I mark the middle push rods with a bit of Typex on the head to identify them when looking through the hole. Sometimes they tends to "cross" during assembly with the other push rod. 5) I use some light grease on both ends of the pushrods, just to prevent them from jumping out of their cups during assembly. 6) I use "lash caps" on top of the valve stems to increase the area where the valve adjusters "hit". Of course this means shortening the adjusters a bit, otherwise they hit the covers. 7) Don't forget that there are small sealing washers under the 6 small Allen bolts. They usually tend to "stick inside". Forgetting them may cause a leak 8) Beware that with the T160 Trident the arrangement differs, hence different pushrods are used.. Keep up the good work 🙂 Greetings, Leo
It’s a long link but here is where those breathers can be found, www.eurojamb.com/products/triumph-bsa-750-rocker-box-vent-kit-a75-t150-t160-triple-us-made?variant=1196931219477¤cy=USD&gad_source=1
Hi Jesse , what are the size and place to buy the X rings, I’d really like to use them but I’m having trouble finding the right size..? Also could you tell me again the size and where to buy the linear bearing in the clutch? Your videos are very helpful and I’ve watched all of them, some twice. Almost forgot, is the X ring between the Cush drive shaft and the clutch a different size than the pushrod tubes, please advise, thank you so much
FAG Bearings SINGLE ROW ANGULAR CONTACT BALL BEARINGS (7203-B-2RS-TVP) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX7CIC4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 x-ring or o-ring for clutch. There is a Triumph Oring that fits in this location also any Triumph parts dealer for Vintage Triumph motorcycles can get it or has it (it fits a T160) Part Number: 60-4419 X ring Quad Seal # 211 size 0.139" width (thick) 0.796" I.D. 1.074" O.D. We Bought a Quad Ring Assortment from Amazon Here is a link: www.amazon.com/568-ORK-QUAD-Quad-Sizes-total-rings/dp/B01D0BAO0G/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0?pd_rd_w=HQD0K&content-id=amzn1.sym.225b4624-972d-4629-9040-f1bf9923dd95%3Aamzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=225b4624-972d-4629-9040-f1bf9923dd95&pf_rd_r=2EAZJYC26VE7Y1AZKD3S&pd_rd_wg=QuYQz&pd_rd_r=e5676ffe-fee7-48f7-b765-0169fce0b5e5&pd_rd_i=B01D0BAO0G No the x-rings are not the same size. LP Williams sells the correct X-ring for the Pushrod tubes Here is a link to the web site and part Number 70-4752Q www.triumph-spares.co.uk/pushrod-tube-sealing-rubber-quadring-70-4752q
I'm in the middle of replacing pushrod seals and top end gaskets on an 78 OIF Bonneville. This is the first time I've taken a top end apart. As I dissembled it I realized the previous owner didn't put push rod seals in there. The front PRT didn't leak much at all but the rear one is the reason I took it apart. As I put it back together I realized why the previous owner left out the seals... using the thinnest seal I have in my kit, the gap between the head and the cylinder is way too much. And when I put it together with no seals in place, I can't lift up the pushrod tubes at all to measure for a seal. There's no gap. After doing some problem solving....I've ordered one of the thicker copper head gaskets to try to make room for the thinnest pushrod seal in my kit. I'm hoping that works, I refuse to put this thing back together with no pushrod seals like the last guy. I also have a plan B...I ordered a couple of the trident pushrod gaskets, which didn't come on the 650 or 750 twins for some reason. I thought maybe if I have a very thin gap at the bottom of the pushrod tube (too thin for the white squishy seals) I could use the thicker version of the trident gaskets, which are around .030. I may be able to create a seal with one of those. We'll see. I'm enjoying the process....and the problem solving part of it all. Although if I can't solve the problem it'll probably stop being fun. : )
There are different lenght pushrod tubes for all the various years of Triumph twins also had different tappet blocks also and since your not the first to take it apart or know whats been done to it in the last 46 years it could have just about anything someone had laying around so everything needs checked and verified. This link is to a very informative article. www.jrcengineering.com/technical-support/understanding-triumph-tappet-blocks-and-pushrod-tubes/ Compare this info to your parts. Make sure you have what you're supposed to have. If all your parts are correct I'd be very suspicious that your head gasket surface has been planed down those heads bend in the center very easily if they put it together at one time with way too much pushrod tube crush something has to give! Then next time a machinist thought it was warped and machined off way to much. There is an 0.080" thick copper head gasket available which is twice as thick as standard. I hope all goes well with your bike.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks. I have a quick follow up for you. I ordered that thicker gasket and when I put in on to check the gap... I realized when I had been mocking it up before, the top PR o-rings rings were not totally seated in the head. When I got them correctly seated, that extra large gap I had disappeared. I thought I looked everything over... I pulled the head off and put it back on several times just to sure, but for some reason I didn't realize the top of the pushrod wasn't quite all the way in. It was a tiny amount, but it was enough to make a difference. So now I've gone back to the regular thickness copper gasket and it looks as if the thinner seals (that came with my kit) will work fine. (Knock on wood.) Looks like ordered a 30 dollar copper gasket and 10 dollars with of trident gaskets that I don't actually need. I'm just glad I realized it before putting it all back together and not having enough squish. It's all in the name of learning. : )
Hi Jessee lm from NZ l just brought a 72 bonneville gold tank and the main fuse by the battery keeps blowing any clues please. There are some loose wires by the coils not connected.
I'm not sure how familiar your with 60's and 70's british motorcycles, but since you said you just bought it. I'm going to say something about these bikes that isn't always obvious all pre 1979 british motorcycles are Positive ground and are polarity sensitive. They have Zenor diodes if the battery ever gets hooked up backwards it blows out the Zenor diode and goes to ground causing instant fuse blow. The system can be tested the fuse wire is in the Negative lead Brown with blue stripe. The Red wire is the Positive lead it goes to the frame as ground. You first should now find the Zenor diode it gold in color and has a large blade with a brown wire plugged in its next to the battery box on the right side bolted to the inner air box. Unplug it. Then try to replace the fuse if it don't blow the fuse the Zenor needs replaced. To test it a Zenor in good condition is normally open if testing with a ohm meter red lead on the base and black on the blade needle should not move if it's good. So if testing and the needle moves showing a closed circuit it's bad and needs replaced. Those wires loose you might be talking about probably aren't and issue Lucas wiring harnesses have extra wires here and there for different accessories that didn't always get used and sometimes if points systems are replaced by electronic ignition systems then some more wires are not used. If the battery was hooked up backwards and caused this and the bike also has say a Boyer electronic ignition system in it they also are very polarity sensitive so it could be burnt out also but let's hope that didn't happen. If all is good with Zenor diode testing then there has to be a wire damaged and touching ground some where and can be anywhere from the taillight to the headlight but will need inspecting close. I hope this helps you.
Great video and incredible detailed. Owning a 1972 Trident I learned a lot. Thanks guys for posting. All the best from Holland 🇳🇱
Great video, thanks for sharing. After doing this exercise a few hundred times myself, might have some useful tips:
1) Take the opportunity to clean all threads in the head and on the bolts, inspect and roll the pushrods on a flat surface to check straightness.
2) I usually use WellSeal on the gaskets, just as a matter of course
3) I placed the paper gaskets under the metal cups which hold the crush rings to get the recommended crush depth
4) I mark the middle push rods with a bit of Typex on the head to identify them when looking through the hole. Sometimes they tends to "cross" during assembly with the other push rod.
5) I use some light grease on both ends of the pushrods, just to prevent them from jumping out of their cups during assembly.
6) I use "lash caps" on top of the valve stems to increase the area where the valve adjusters "hit". Of course this means shortening the adjusters a bit, otherwise they hit the covers.
7) Don't forget that there are small sealing washers under the 6 small Allen bolts. They usually tend to "stick inside". Forgetting them may cause a leak
8) Beware that with the T160 Trident the arrangement differs, hence different pushrods are used..
Keep up the good work 🙂
Greetings, Leo
Sure glad I did the tubes and rocker boxes on bare engine setting in the frame!
I bet that was easier,
Hi Jesse, Great video. Where did you find the rocker box breather cap kits? That is a great addition. Greetings from Colorado.
It’s a long link but here is where those breathers can be found, www.eurojamb.com/products/triumph-bsa-750-rocker-box-vent-kit-a75-t150-t160-triple-us-made?variant=1196931219477¤cy=USD&gad_source=1
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks Jesse.
Hi Jesse , what are the size and place to buy the X rings, I’d really like to use them but I’m having trouble finding the right size..? Also could you tell me again the size and where to buy the linear bearing in the clutch? Your videos are very helpful and I’ve watched all of them, some twice. Almost forgot, is the X ring between the Cush drive shaft and the clutch a different size than the pushrod tubes, please advise, thank you so much
FAG Bearings SINGLE ROW ANGULAR CONTACT BALL BEARINGS (7203-B-2RS-TVP)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX7CIC4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
x-ring or o-ring for clutch.
There is a Triumph Oring that fits in this location also any Triumph
parts dealer for Vintage Triumph motorcycles can get it or has it (it
fits a T160)
Part Number: 60-4419
X ring Quad Seal # 211
size 0.139" width (thick)
0.796" I.D.
1.074" O.D.
We Bought a Quad Ring Assortment from Amazon Here is a link:
www.amazon.com/568-ORK-QUAD-Quad-Sizes-total-rings/dp/B01D0BAO0G/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0?pd_rd_w=HQD0K&content-id=amzn1.sym.225b4624-972d-4629-9040-f1bf9923dd95%3Aamzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=225b4624-972d-4629-9040-f1bf9923dd95&pf_rd_r=2EAZJYC26VE7Y1AZKD3S&pd_rd_wg=QuYQz&pd_rd_r=e5676ffe-fee7-48f7-b765-0169fce0b5e5&pd_rd_i=B01D0BAO0G
No the x-rings are not the same size.
LP Williams sells the correct X-ring for the Pushrod tubes Here is a
link to the web site and part Number 70-4752Q
www.triumph-spares.co.uk/pushrod-tube-sealing-rubber-quadring-70-4752q
Thank you!!
I'm in the middle of replacing pushrod seals and top end gaskets on an 78 OIF Bonneville. This is the first time I've taken a top end apart. As I dissembled it I realized the previous owner didn't put push rod seals in there. The front PRT didn't leak much at all but the rear one is the reason I took it apart. As I put it back together I realized why the previous owner left out the seals... using the thinnest seal I have in my kit, the gap between the head and the cylinder is way too much. And when I put it together with no seals in place, I can't lift up the pushrod tubes at all to measure for a seal. There's no gap.
After doing some problem solving....I've ordered one of the thicker copper head gaskets to try to make room for the thinnest pushrod seal in my kit. I'm hoping that works, I refuse to put this thing back together with no pushrod seals like the last guy. I also have a plan B...I ordered a couple of the trident pushrod gaskets, which didn't come on the 650 or 750 twins for some reason. I thought maybe if I have a very thin gap at the bottom of the pushrod tube (too thin for the white squishy seals) I could use the thicker version of the trident gaskets, which are around .030. I may be able to create a seal with one of those. We'll see. I'm enjoying the process....and the problem solving part of it all. Although if I can't solve the problem it'll probably stop being fun. : )
There are different lenght pushrod tubes for all the various years of Triumph twins also had different tappet blocks also and since your not the first to take it apart or know whats been done to it in the last 46 years it could have just about anything someone had laying around so everything needs checked and verified. This link is to a very informative article.
www.jrcengineering.com/technical-support/understanding-triumph-tappet-blocks-and-pushrod-tubes/
Compare this info to your parts. Make sure you have what you're supposed to have. If all your parts are correct I'd be very suspicious that your head gasket surface has been planed down those heads bend in the center very easily if they put it together at one time with way too much pushrod tube crush something has to give! Then next time a machinist thought it was warped and machined off way to much. There is an 0.080" thick copper head gasket available which is twice as thick as standard.
I hope all goes well with your bike.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks. I have a quick follow up for you. I ordered that thicker gasket and when I put in on to check the gap... I realized when I had been mocking it up before, the top PR o-rings rings were not totally seated in the head. When I got them correctly seated, that extra large gap I had disappeared. I thought I looked everything over... I pulled the head off and put it back on several times just to sure, but for some reason I didn't realize the top of the pushrod wasn't quite all the way in. It was a tiny amount, but it was enough to make a difference. So now I've gone back to the regular thickness copper gasket and it looks as if the thinner seals (that came with my kit) will work fine. (Knock on wood.) Looks like ordered a 30 dollar copper gasket and 10 dollars with of trident gaskets that I don't actually need. I'm just glad I realized it before putting it all back together and not having enough squish. It's all in the name of learning. : )
Hi Jessee lm from NZ l just brought a 72 bonneville gold tank and the main fuse by the battery keeps blowing any clues please. There are some loose wires by the coils not connected.
I'm not sure how familiar your with 60's and 70's british motorcycles, but since you said you just bought it. I'm going to say something about these bikes that isn't always obvious all pre 1979 british motorcycles are Positive ground and are polarity sensitive. They have Zenor diodes if the battery ever gets hooked up backwards it blows out the Zenor diode and goes to ground causing instant fuse blow. The system can be tested the fuse wire is in the Negative lead Brown with blue stripe. The Red wire is the Positive lead it goes to the frame as ground.
You first should now find the Zenor diode it gold in color and has a large blade with a brown wire plugged in its next to the battery box on the right side bolted to the inner air box. Unplug it. Then try to replace the fuse if it don't blow the fuse the Zenor needs replaced. To test it a Zenor in good condition is normally open if testing with a ohm meter red lead on the base and black on the blade needle should not move if it's good. So if testing and the needle moves showing a closed circuit it's bad and needs replaced.
Those wires loose you might be talking about probably aren't and issue Lucas wiring harnesses have extra wires here and there for different accessories that didn't always get used and sometimes if points systems are replaced by electronic ignition systems then some more wires are not used.
If the battery was hooked up backwards and caused this and the bike also has say a Boyer electronic ignition system in it they also are very polarity sensitive so it could be burnt out also but let's hope that didn't happen.
If all is good with Zenor diode testing then there has to be a wire damaged and touching ground some where and can be anywhere from the taillight to the headlight but will need inspecting close.
I hope this helps you.