Or you can steal the lock, get the pins out of it, then decode it, go online, order a key, then YOU have a key for where ever that you can use whenever. But yeah. You can buy your own cores, operating keys and control key haha
So one thing you can do is create a lock that instead of pins, has one unit thick wafers piled on top of each other. The result of this is that the lock will still "function", however will be unlockable with any key. Since most people don't try incorrect keys on their locks, this gives the owner the impression that the lock still functions correctly, yet gives the perpetrator the ability to come and go at will. That said, for a padlock, unless it's distinctive in some way, this would be easier implemented in the field by just replacing the whole padlock with your custom one, rather than just the core.
@ Brian Ashton & Ben Snow ---> Post a TH-cam video parody of that... titled as "Master Bang 2 Locks Open" with the hash tag #Brazzers... 2 Master Locks Banged Open Together... stand back & observe how many viral views it gets on TH-cam.
Destroying or picking, I enjoy this channel both because it’s entertaining watching you speedily open them, and because I’m terrified when I reflect on the implications
In theory, that's one of the things putting a hardened steel plate in front of the lock protects from... But in practice, I imagine the screw would, instead, completely mess up the softer brass internals of the cylinder.
adder2204 I’m guessing unless it has a self jamming or fusing mechanism which would render it permanently locked through the infliction of the damaged, then probably not. Years ago I was involved with building armoured cars; in them the strength of the protection comes down to as much the car as well as the driver, they provide escape time not full on defence or bunker protection, a good driver will get you out a bad one will get you killed. Perhaps much like it, a lock is a deterrent not an insurmountable barrier 🤷🏻♂️
From a material standpoint, if you were to use a hardened steel core, I guess it would be fairly difficult to insert the screw properly, and in that case pulling the core would then be kinda hard. As I'm kind of a noob when it comes to locks, I don't know wether hardened core exist. I bet they would be quite costly, and probably not worth the price increment with regard to a brass core with a good reinforced shielding.
This is me and today I was able to put all those videos of yours I watched to open a lock for a locker at work that someone lost the key to. Luckly it was a very bad lock and a raking attack was all I needed but I would had no idea what to do if it wasn't for this videos (Obviously I was authorized to open the locker but a intern lost the key and we would have to destroy something to get back in otherwise!)
"Okey so today we have this Masterlock next gen padlock. Firstly I am just going to drill this screw into the key-way." *click nose as padlock opens* "okey, well that's all I have time for today."
man, seeing you holding onto the lock while driving that screw into it is pretty terrifying. I would imagine the chances of getting hurt are minimal, but i would imagine that any accident would likely be a pretty gnarly one.
You just had 1 million subscribers, you are already at 1.2 million...... another 200,000 subscribers already? This is awesome seeing him go from starting out to being the most subscribed youtube lock picker.
All locks provide in security situations is provide 3 basic things; (1.) Adequate deterrence to physical attack, (2.) Buy time for detection in the event of a physical attack or other means of mechanical bypass or nondestructive manipulation. (3.) Require specialized tools/equipment & skillful strategic planning to affect a successful defeat via forced entry or nondestructive manipulation [such as picking/raking/bumping or decoding/impressioning of the locking mechanism itself.] Most locks with 3rd party ratings (UL-437 or ANSI/BHMA 156.30) for resistance to the above mentioned attacks have been tested mostly by using common, commercially obtained tools, such as drills, hanmers, cutters, and the like... not involving anything seemingly exotic as specialized tools such as this demonstrated lock core/cylinder puller. In fact, UL-437 specifically lists the qualifying tools used in its tests regarding the resistance of high security locking devices against physical, forced entry attack vectors. ANSI/BHMA 156.30 Has similar testing criterion to UL-437 with the addition of slightly longer resistance time when it comes to nondestructive manipulation, such as lock-picking in particular, in addition to effective patent-protected key-control technology to prevent unauthorized key duplication for high-security rated lock & key systems. However, a high security locking device is only as secure as whatever it is secured to; such as a door (as in the case of a padlock securing a door or a gate) or an immovable object (as in the case of a padlock/chain combination that is securing portable equipment against theft or unauthorized use.) Hasps mounted to wood doors using small, short wood screws could easily be pried or torn free from it's mountings regardless of whatever padlock is used with it... whereas the same hasp that is through-bolted to the door & frame would then offer a significant amount of resistance to prying and hammer blows... (once again, using commonly obtained hand-tools that could be acquired from the local retail hardware store.) I'm sure that once this particular form or method of physically attacking and defeating locks reaches mainstream attention (as such as what lock-bumping did nearly some 15 years ago), lock manufacturers will then respond with the typical reactive approach of engineering or designing their products to more adequately resist such physical attack methodology... In practice, physical security locks only provide one layer or aspect of security, as there are other security layers or aspects to be considered, in particular - what I call "passive observation or monitoring systems" of security alarms, surveillance cameras, trained guard/attack dog(s), roving security guards or sentries... as well as other more exotic technologies (such as infrared heat & motion sensing triggers that are designed to work integrated into an alarm system with other sensing technologies... Multiple security layers or different sets of locked barriers such as doors or gates would definitely act as a viable deterrent to the casual thief or prowler...
Time and noise seem to by the issues involved with unauthorized access. The more time it takes and/or the noisier the attack is the more likely you are to be caught. So you choose your defense along these lines. I would expect multiple defense lines when securing high value items.
Here is some Background about the Zieh-Fix Glocke (Core remover) Its a device commonly used by Firefighters in Germany (and probabaly by many others) to open doors of people in need of help. Thats because its pretty fast, reliable and easy to use. Most importantly it only destroys the Lock and Not the whole door. Just so you know that this isnt its intended use, but still pretty intresting to See how ist handles such locks
Have a problem in San Francisco with people using lockpick guns to get into and steal tools from weather guard toolboxes (truck bed toolboxes). Could you do an episode on making these locks resistant to that type of attack?
@Ian Duke Do you know of a lock that can replace the weatherguard lock? It doesn't rotate, it moves axially (ionno if I spelled that right) if I could just replace the core, I would.
I've seen you do some product reviews in the past, but I'd really be interested in seeing you break down your personal tool collection and your rationale for why you have it in the kit vs other alternatives.
Haha, we learned during german police training that the tool "Zieh-Fix" is a tool often used for burglaries. Obviously a very effective tool to get in somewhere rather quickly and effectively. So if i ever find one of these on a suspect, it's a jackpot.
I always knew the retaining cam was the weak link of the BEST system. Frank Best probably knew this as well. They were always impossible for me to pick however.
It's still much, much better than the spring loaded pin that Schlage ICs use. Just drill a hole, push pin, remove core. Only need to go through about 1/8" of material for a common padlock size. Found that out when I assembled a SFIC lock with the over-rotation disk in backwards. Couldn't turn the core to open the lock or remove the core to fix my mistake.
I would suggest using a knipex 8603250 smooth jaw pliers to hold the outside of the puller. It'll give you the extra leverage you need and won't damage the face of the puller.
After you finish with the core puller you should hit it with the ramset, and then leave it where your other locks can see. That way they know what happens to locks that disappoint you.
LPL, can you do a longer form video, where you go through your process of figuring out what to do with a new lock? most of the time you pick something, you've probably already ruled out a bunch of things first. I'd love to see your process.
High tension work with bare hands right next to the tension point always makes me so anxious. Just thinking "I sure hope that screw doesn't break." But LPL is certainly much smarter in this stuff than I am. I can't imagine he'd put himself in danger.
the main defense against a core puller is using hard but not brittle metals like spring steel however the cost is 2-3x brass which is why its not commonly used. Brass is cheep and easy to machine because its a soft metal
Was my thought exactly. Although in my case, was thinking he would read the pinning of the original core, get a key cut for it and build a new lock core with the same pins so the owner was unaware. Not sure how possible that is, but sounds like fun to me.
I would like to see it used on a Kwikset Smart Lock, newest generation. To see if a new core can be put back in the lock and everything works as before, without the tool doing any damage to the housing.
My patent pending padlock securement mechanism will block removing a lock core as you just did. A major US padlock mfg. Is coming out with a new high security padlock. They should invite you to their factory for lunch and testing lock first.😊
A moderately powered cordless 18v 1/2” impact wrench with a deep socket on top of that tool would mince the core out in under 10 seconds I’d bet 👍🏼 Are you up for that challenge LPL??
If you are already using a drill to drive the screw into the core, why not try to use the drill to turn the nut on the core puller instead of a separate wrench? Obviously this attack wouldn't be concerned about a little noise associated with a cordless drill, and it seems like that would be quite a bit faster.
I wonder, would one of those portable electric crimping tools (pex pipe, ferrules for electrical work) or a tool for creating punchouts in electrical boxes would have enough power to pull a core?
Nice one :) Two things I don't really understand: the core looks to be made of steel, why is the (important!) retention lug made of soft brass? And two, why is the core and/or at least the first pin in the core not made of hardened steel? It was way too easy to drill the screw in it...
I would like to see this core puller tried against the Bowley lock. I think the Bowley would win. It might even still be operable with the original key.
from the first time i saw that piece that holds SFIC cores in, i thought it was tiny. ive always thought it looked way too small and wondered why it isnt made a bit bigger.
Perhaps a pipe wrench on the core puller would give extra leverage too. Although it looked like the screwdriver mad a world of difference so a heavy pipe wrench is unnecessary
Met another fan of yours in Tampa a couple of weeks ago who happens to be a lawyer. Come to think of it, he kinda sounds like you.... hmmm.... (Obviously he’s not you. There are no basements in Florida.).
The flats at the core end of the puller are presumably for a wrench. Which would give you a lot more leverage and make life a lot easier than using that screwdriver.
the core puller is a very dangerous tool especially if you get a spark ply socket and adaptor for a cordless drill you someone could make quick work of a lock and be into your property fairly quickly. i think that is why core pullers should be restricted tools requiring proof that you are a locksmith to get one just like the universal decoder keys you showed on other videos
The one in the video is not (only) for locksmiths, but mainly for fire dept and rescue units. Typically used to open locked / closed doors, not padlocks; there's angle grinders and suchlike for those, and the noise is NOT an issue - speedy entrance with minimal side damage is. Therefore, those are sold specifically to non-locksmiths.
I know it wouldn’t make much difference in practice, but how different is the feel with a lock in-use by using a core puller as opposed to having a fresh lock on a desk? I.E. is it harder, easier, etc.? Much like when you pick/bypass some locks, a real world application for some kind of scope would be nice.
![[1591] The Replicant: Pocket Key Casting Perfected!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L5Fus7qbRZM/mqdefault.jpg)
![[1591] The Replicant: Pocket Key Casting Perfected!](/img/tr.png)
![[1588] My 36 Inch King Dick Wrecks Locks!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7X2PuE6ELmg/mqdefault.jpg)
so after stealing the stuff locked behind this, you can steal and reuse the lock as well.
thats a very econimical design
Georg Plaz I imagine stealing all the stuff and rebuilding the lock and the person has to hire a locksmith to find out they’ve been robbed
its as if you we're never there... hmm
Or you can steal the lock, get the pins out of it, then decode it, go online, order a key, then YOU have a key for where ever that you can use whenever. But yeah. You can buy your own cores, operating keys and control key haha
So one thing you can do is create a lock that instead of pins, has one unit thick wafers piled on top of each other. The result of this is that the lock will still "function", however will be unlockable with any key. Since most people don't try incorrect keys on their locks, this gives the owner the impression that the lock still functions correctly, yet gives the perpetrator the ability to come and go at will.
That said, for a padlock, unless it's distinctive in some way, this would be easier implemented in the field by just replacing the whole padlock with your custom one, rather than just the core.
Lol 😂😂
Remove core, replace core with your own one. Lock owner comes back with his key and cannot get in. LPL Pranks
You tried to stop me from stealing stuff from your garage, gg you played yourself
Can we see a lock being picked using only a Master Lock?
Bang two masterlocks against each other, both pop open.
@@punker-gamer-trucker-guy put a brazzers tag on that
@ Brian Ashton & Ben Snow ---> Post a TH-cam video parody of that... titled as "Master Bang 2 Locks Open" with the hash tag #Brazzers... 2 Master Locks Banged Open Together... stand back & observe how many viral views it gets on TH-cam.
@@christopherlawler3033 omfg yes someone please do this!
he already did its video 6832
This is the Lock Breaking Lawyer and what I have for you today...
Hahahaha
That core puller is one hell of a piece of kit. It amazes me every time
Decades ago we used giant slide-hammers that were originally used for straightening car bumpers.
Product improvement: Add some detachable (screw-in) handles to the sides of that core puller.
afn29129 David. I guess that if the padlock was locked in place the shackle would stop the padlock from turning
Something he and Bosnian Bill could make.
Or an impact driver with a deep socket
Nice click out of 1,2,3,4,5 all at the same time. Congrats on getting to a million subs!
My Grandfather always said "Locks are for keeping honest people out. Criminals will get in any way, any way they can."
Not letting people know you have shit worth stealing is the best security device and is basically free
Destroying or picking, I enjoy this channel both because it’s entertaining watching you speedily open them, and because I’m terrified when I reflect on the implications
"Hmm, that does not wanna turn."
Padlock: "Holy shit!"
*Opens*
Serious question. Is any lock secure from the core puller?
I want to know the answer to that, too.
In theory, that's one of the things putting a hardened steel plate in front of the lock protects from... But in practice, I imagine the screw would, instead, completely mess up the softer brass internals of the cylinder.
adder2204 I’m guessing unless it has a self jamming or fusing mechanism which would render it permanently locked through the infliction of the damaged, then probably not. Years ago I was involved with building armoured cars; in them the strength of the protection comes down to as much the car as well as the driver, they provide escape time not full on defence or bunker protection, a good driver will get you out a bad one will get you killed. Perhaps much like it, a lock is a deterrent not an insurmountable barrier 🤷🏻♂️
I'm guessing anything with decent drill protection.
From a material standpoint, if you were to use a hardened steel core, I guess it would be fairly difficult to insert the screw properly, and in that case pulling the core would then be kinda hard. As I'm kind of a noob when it comes to locks, I don't know wether hardened core exist. I bet they would be quite costly, and probably not worth the price increment with regard to a brass core with a good reinforced shielding.
Thanks for the demonstration
I expected that the core would separate- leaving the cam and outer ring in place. It’s nice to learn something new.
LPL opening wine: "And if we look down there, we can see we're making good progress pulling that core out..."
This is me and today I was able to put all those videos of yours I watched to open a lock for a locker at work that someone lost the key to. Luckly it was a very bad lock and a raking attack was all I needed but I would had no idea what to do if it wasn't for this videos (Obviously I was authorized to open the locker but a intern lost the key and we would have to destroy something to get back in otherwise!)
LPL ... amazingly strong core puller. A clean and neat extraction mission. Satisfying!
LPL got some HP for the drill on this one. No magic smoke. Nice.
"Okey so today we have this Masterlock next gen padlock. Firstly I am just going to drill this screw into the key-way." *click nose as padlock opens* "okey, well that's all I have time for today."
man, seeing you holding onto the lock while driving that screw into it is pretty terrifying. I would imagine the chances of getting hurt are minimal, but i would imagine that any accident would likely be a pretty gnarly one.
screws are not so keen to pull themselves into flesh
The bit driver he was using makes the chances to almost zero. Worst case scenario the lock just rotates in his hand.
The LockPickingLawyer is probably the only one that could break into your house, change the core and lock YOU out.
You just had 1 million subscribers, you are already at 1.2 million...... another 200,000 subscribers already? This is awesome seeing him go from starting out to being the most subscribed youtube lock picker.
All locks provide in security situations is provide 3 basic things; (1.) Adequate deterrence to physical attack, (2.) Buy time for detection in the event of a physical attack or other means of mechanical bypass or nondestructive manipulation. (3.) Require specialized tools/equipment & skillful strategic planning to affect a successful defeat via forced entry or nondestructive manipulation [such as picking/raking/bumping or decoding/impressioning of the locking mechanism itself.]
Most locks with 3rd party ratings (UL-437 or ANSI/BHMA 156.30) for resistance to the above mentioned attacks have been tested mostly by using common, commercially obtained tools, such as drills, hanmers, cutters, and the like... not involving anything seemingly exotic as specialized tools such as this demonstrated lock core/cylinder puller.
In fact, UL-437 specifically lists the qualifying tools used in its tests regarding the resistance of high security locking devices against physical, forced entry attack vectors.
ANSI/BHMA 156.30 Has similar testing criterion to UL-437 with the addition of slightly longer resistance time when it comes to nondestructive manipulation, such as lock-picking in particular, in addition to effective patent-protected key-control technology to prevent unauthorized key duplication for high-security rated lock & key systems.
However, a high security locking device is only as secure as whatever it is secured to; such as a door (as in the case of a padlock securing a door or a gate) or an immovable object (as in the case of a padlock/chain combination that is securing portable equipment against theft or unauthorized use.)
Hasps mounted to wood doors using small, short wood screws could easily be pried or torn free from it's mountings regardless of whatever padlock is used with it... whereas the same hasp that is through-bolted to the door & frame would then offer a significant amount of resistance to prying and hammer blows... (once again, using commonly obtained hand-tools that could be acquired from the local retail hardware store.)
I'm sure that once this particular form or method of physically attacking and defeating locks reaches mainstream attention (as such as what lock-bumping did nearly some 15 years ago), lock manufacturers will then respond with the typical reactive approach of engineering or designing their products to more adequately resist such physical attack methodology...
In practice, physical security locks only provide one layer or aspect of security, as there are other security layers or aspects to be considered, in particular - what I call "passive observation or monitoring systems" of security alarms, surveillance cameras, trained guard/attack dog(s), roving security guards or sentries... as well as other more exotic technologies (such as infrared heat & motion sensing triggers that are designed to work integrated into an alarm system with other sensing technologies...
Multiple security layers or different sets of locked barriers such as doors or gates would definitely act as a viable deterrent to the casual thief or prowler...
Time and noise seem to by the issues involved with unauthorized access. The more time it takes and/or the noisier the attack is the more likely you are to be caught. So you choose your defense along these lines. I would expect multiple defense lines when securing high value items.
The forbidden coffee grinder.
What a Awesome video Mr.L.P.L, great stuff,to be learned here
The LPL needs to get those gym gains up. His hands are too pampered for this sort of stuff 😂💪🏻
Here is some Background about the Zieh-Fix Glocke (Core remover)
Its a device commonly used by Firefighters in Germany (and probabaly by many others) to open doors of people in need of help.
Thats because its pretty fast, reliable and easy to use. Most importantly it only destroys the Lock and Not the whole door.
Just so you know that this isnt its intended use, but still pretty intresting to See how ist handles such locks
Have a problem in San Francisco with people using lockpick guns to get into and steal tools from weather guard toolboxes (truck bed toolboxes). Could you do an episode on making these locks resistant to that type of attack?
@Ian Duke Do you know of a lock that can replace the weatherguard lock? It doesn't rotate, it moves axially (ionno if I spelled that right) if I could just replace the core, I would.
I've seen you do some product reviews in the past, but I'd really be interested in seeing you break down your personal tool collection and your rationale for why you have it in the kit vs other alternatives.
Haha, we learned during german police training that the tool "Zieh-Fix" is a tool often used for burglaries. Obviously a very effective tool to get in somewhere rather quickly and effectively.
So if i ever find one of these on a suspect, it's a jackpot.
I always knew the retaining cam was the weak link of the BEST system. Frank Best probably knew this as well. They were always impossible for me to pick however.
It's still much, much better than the spring loaded pin that Schlage ICs use. Just drill a hole, push pin, remove core. Only need to go through about 1/8" of material for a common padlock size. Found that out when I assembled a SFIC lock with the over-rotation disk in backwards. Couldn't turn the core to open the lock or remove the core to fix my mistake.
Going to 1000 Vids, going to do something special LPL?! I'm excited nevertheless!
I'm predicting an elbow reveal.
true fans have seen his elbows in his skateboard made of locks crossover with that skate channel
Had hoped the screw alone bumps the mechanism and opens it. But ohwell it was funny enough it went in there.
That tool is a beast!! The Germans really know what they are doing!!
I would like to see this type of attack on that squire lock you know the one I’m thinking of the BIG one.
qwertyes didn't LPL and BB shoot that big one with a 50bmg?
jaydel2929 yes that’s why I wanna see this attack with it just to see how durable both are because reason
Squire stronghold 100
I love that core puller, it's nice
I would suggest using a knipex 8603250 smooth jaw pliers to hold the outside of the puller. It'll give you the extra leverage you need and won't damage the face of the puller.
After you finish with the core puller you should hit it with the ramset, and then leave it where your other locks can see. That way they know what happens to locks that disappoint you.
LPL, can you do a longer form video, where you go through your process of figuring out what to do with a new lock? most of the time you pick something, you've probably already ruled out a bunch of things first. I'd love to see your process.
High tension work with bare hands right next to the tension point always makes me so anxious.
Just thinking "I sure hope that screw doesn't break."
But LPL is certainly much smarter in this stuff than I am. I can't imagine he'd put himself in danger.
After all that, the lock held up pretty well.
Nice job. Would be a great tool for locksmith.
Would've liked a look inside the lock after the core was out. Seems you needed a pretty specialized tool to open the lock even after it was gutted.
As the drill started up I thought, "that lock is so screwed."
forbidden pepper grinder
The core puller could do with an added gripper/handle for ease. It looks cumbersome but does the job with ease. Nice. Thanks.
LPL: we don't need the core, we're going to open this lock with a follower.
This took longer than the last two videos combined. Still fun to watch though.
the main defense against a core puller is using hard but not brittle metals like spring steel however the cost is 2-3x brass which is why its not commonly used. Brass is cheep and easy to machine because its a soft metal
Idea to protect against core pullers. Adapt the key way / core to be on some kind of bearing so when you try to screw in it just spins.
Now I can pick your lock and steal your lock!
And reuse your lock
The LockPickingLawyer is the type of guy that would replace the core of a lock with his own after breaking in.
Was my thought exactly. Although in my case, was thinking he would read the pinning of the original core, get a key cut for it and build a new lock core with the same pins so the owner was unaware. Not sure how possible that is, but sounds like fun to me.
That'd sure baffle some investigators.
Hey LPL, have you tried out the newer Tapplock fingerprint lock? I want you to make a video on that and let us know it's vulnerabilities. Thanks!
Looking forward to episode 1000. Imagine it will be something quite special, like an impenetrable masterlock... Lol
"like an impenetrable masterlock" - please don't say things like that: LPL would have to stop at video 999 ...
I can make a masterlock unpickable.
It would also make it unopenable by the key, or anything short of an angle grinder.
You reached 1M subs !!!!
CONGRATS !!!
You have good grip to get as far as you did with no backup
I would like to see it used on a Kwikset Smart Lock, newest generation. To see if a new core can be put back in the lock and everything works as before, without the tool doing any damage to the housing.
Following from Kenya
Great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
'We don't need no vices let Lockpicking Lawyer turn!'
oh man that kinda scared me, thought you lost control of the drill at first lol
Congrats on reaching 1MILLION SUBS!!!
Kinda curious what u have in store for a celebration video
Lockpickinglawer: Laughing at your locks since 2015
Should use a impact drill with the screwdriver and deepwell socket. Will make it a lot quicker.
That core puller could be attached to a pneumatic punch for electrical boxes to make it easier...
My patent pending padlock securement mechanism will block removing a lock core as you just did. A major US padlock mfg. Is coming out with a new high security padlock. They should invite you to their factory for lunch and testing lock first.😊
You’re sitting alone in your house, 3AM and you hear click out of 1, 2 is binding, click out of 3.
Nice click out of 4 and we're in. Now to pick and gut the residents of this house
A moderately powered cordless 18v 1/2” impact wrench with a deep socket on top of that tool would mince the core out in under 10 seconds I’d bet 👍🏼
Are you up for that challenge LPL??
Thank you! I was wondering how the core puller would work a sfic core. seems a lot easier than drilling it out
I've always wondered if using a cordless impact wrench would be faster at pulling the core than just using a ratchet.
If you are already using a drill to drive the screw into the core, why not try to use the drill to turn the nut on the core puller instead of a separate wrench? Obviously this attack wouldn't be concerned about a little noise associated with a cordless drill, and it seems like that would be quite a bit faster.
I wonder, would one of those portable electric crimping tools (pex pipe, ferrules for electrical work) or a tool for creating punchouts in electrical boxes would have enough power to pull a core?
Why is it only now that the Gradius catchphrase "Destroy the core!" comes into my mind?
*Ah ha!* My new, and much-preferred, method of lock 'picking."
Video suggestion: Making the LockPickingLawyer Lock! [UNPICKABLE]
I'm waiting for Ramset vs Core Puller
Nice one :) Two things I don't really understand: the core looks to be made of steel, why is the (important!) retention lug made of soft brass? And two, why is the core and/or at least the first pin in the core not made of hardened steel? It was way too easy to drill the screw in it...
I'd be curious to see this against something even heftier like the rotalock
Video idea: With day and age smart locks for your home front door are much more common. I don't see you reviewing a set of them. why not?
I am surprised there is no cracking sound as the stress tension wins out over the lock core.
It just quietly surrenders.
@phục êwê What's that... First he breaks their spirit then he breaks them.
I would like to see this core puller tried against the Bowley lock. I think the Bowley would win. It might even still be operable with the original key.
an admirable defense
from the first time i saw that piece that holds SFIC cores in, i thought it was tiny. ive always thought it looked way too small and wondered why it isnt made a bit bigger.
You should review the igloohome Smart Padlock, no way of picking it lol
Please use this on top security locks and turn that bolt using an cordless screwdriver
I think this would work on a Squire Stronghold as the base plate design should shear on one side!
Perhaps a pipe wrench on the core puller would give extra leverage too. Although it looked like the screwdriver mad a world of difference so a heavy pipe wrench is unnecessary
You can drill them in about about 15 seconds anyway
Met another fan of yours in Tampa a couple of weeks ago who happens to be a lawyer. Come to think of it, he kinda sounds like you.... hmmm.... (Obviously he’s not you. There are no basements in Florida.).
Can't help thinking a battery 3/8 impact driver on the end of the core puller would just annihilate most locks like this... And really fast!
I get the feeling you could pick it faster than it took you to extract.
The flats at the core end of the puller are presumably for a wrench. Which would give you a lot more leverage and make life a lot easier than using that screwdriver.
@@Zieh-Fix Padlocks get put on chains with slack in them.
I'd like to see this done on some eurocylinders that have break away anti-snap protection.
No doubt. I want to see that as well!!
and congratulations on the 1m subscribers
Can you open a wine bottle with this?
the core puller is a very dangerous tool especially if you get a spark ply socket and adaptor for a cordless drill you someone could make quick work of a lock and be into your property fairly quickly.
i think that is why core pullers should be restricted tools requiring proof that you are a locksmith to get one just like the universal decoder keys you showed on other videos
The one in the video is not (only) for locksmiths, but mainly for fire dept and rescue units. Typically used to open locked / closed doors, not padlocks; there's angle grinders and suchlike for those, and the noise is NOT an issue - speedy entrance with minimal side damage is. Therefore, those are sold specifically to non-locksmiths.
PERFECT!! This is the lock I was waiting to see this tried on!! I was curious what would happen. Thank you, Harry!!
I'd like to see if a slide hammer could do the same thing. That would be a lot quicker.
Last time I was this early, Master Locks were difficult to pick
Said no one ever
I'd like to see what it looks like using a battery powered drill driver or impact wrench instead of ratchet.
I know it wouldn’t make much difference in practice, but how different is the feel with a lock in-use by using a core puller as opposed to having a fresh lock on a desk? I.E. is it harder, easier, etc.? Much like when you pick/bypass some locks, a real world application for some kind of scope would be nice.
that keymark looks familiar :)