OMG, I drove a ground rod in with a sledge. Took forever. Thanks for showing that. We were considering a steel building, but I have seen several videos that showed too many problems.
love to watch that stuff. I never took to electrical work. Interested about it but just never took the time to learn all about how it all fits together with power, neutral, and ground, amps, volts and ohms. Impressed though with what a neat job you did and all the forethought to think ahead for access points and future expansion.
Sir, nice work. You get the near and workman like title. The only thing I can say for sure you got wrong was your 8 x 8 box is required. 352.26 is that PVC pipe section covering the 4 quarter bends before a pull point. Now, for anyone about to do this, the NATIONAL ELECTRIC CODE (NEC) can be modified or thrown completely out by your local building guys NEC 90.4. Please call the building people before you even start the build. Section 230.70 talks about a building disconnect out side the building or close to the entrance inside. If you are beyond what is "close to the entrance" and there might be a lot of rework. Move your panel one foot and the solution might be to replace your wire reach that far. 352.44 again the PVC pipe section calls for slip joints for the PVC pipe to expand and shrink with temperature. There is a chart, but the inspector can require or not. 250.32 talks about grounding this type of building. There is an exception to the ground rod and a reference to the grounding system section which can be seen as needing 2 ground rods. A phone call or two can get all these questions answered. Also, consider adding some extra empty pipes to your trench while it is open. Cable/internet, a dinner bell/emergency alert system, and building security systems can simply be pulled into the pipes with any re-digging of any trench. Also, consider a bathroom fan type timer on your outside light to allow you to walk away with the light on and not return.
I think from other Electricians, that on a Sub-Panel, you tie-in to the Main Panel for the Ground Rod, you are Not to put in a Ground Rod at the Sub-Panel. And do Not Bond the Neutral and the Ground at the Sub-Panel (Which you did correctly). That way everything happens at the Main Breaker and your breakers work safely. Just FYI, from what I heard.
So you’re 1/2 correct. When you read or heard that sub panels dont require a ground rod - that’s completely true. HOWEVER that only applies to sub panels in the SAME building/structure as that building should already employ a ground rod (or two). The main purpose of the ground rod is protection from lightning which is why the secondary structure must have its own ground rod (and in some municipalities- now TWO ground rods) Hope that clarifies things a bit!
That ground rod just needs to have a ground resistance of less than 25 ohms. Code is kind of dumb in that if it's greater than 25 a second rod is required and that's it. Nevermind two rods could be 100+ ohms of ground resistance, just needs to be two. It's dumb and not safe. In the utility world we have to sink ground wells until that number is less than 25 no matter how much it takes, which makes sense.
Love how your shop turned out! Did you ever get the garage door opener for it? If you did what kind did you go with and did you have to change the doors or were the original doors good enough? Absolutely love the 55 Chevy! I first took notice to a 57 gmc 9300 I believe that's the Canadian version on a Show we watch. Been looking for one since lol!
Please check out my new channel which is all footage INSIDE the shop, featuring lots of tools, cool car builds and projects! youtube.com/@intheshoptv?si=7O4L7XoUQ7wdjo-c
Thanks! I went 18”. Thats what they require here (no frost line) and consequently, all the rental trenchers are 18” machines. Didn’t even need to go that deep though honestly. Thats true with receptacles
You need 2 ground rods 6' apart or more. You only need 1 ground rod if you are using it as a supplementary ground to a cold water pipe or rebar in footing.
An important part of 352.44 is the fact that the expansion fitting is required where the expansion is in a straignt run "between securely mounted items". Appropriate bends in the run allow for expansion without an expansion joint. Here we have a total of 4’ of conduit and no frost heave whatsoever. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Thanks for sharing this! I’m planning to do something similar for my detached garage. I’m considering stubbing the conduit up through the slab and into the wall. Is there any reason you didn’t do it this way? Is it just because it would be cumbersome to coordinate the conduit run with the concrete crews and building erectors?
Partially that, but with the metal tube sill plate (bottom frame rail), you dont want to remove a section to make way for the conduit. Nor did I want to stub up in front of the frame rail and sacrifice floor space in a small shop. If it was a stick frame building with 2x6 sill plates, it wouldn’t be an issue.
I am sure this is a dumb question to you pros but I noticed a quick shot of the bad you use for tools and wire nuts while doing electrical. Do you happen to know which bag you got? I want to get one and keep it set up for every time I do electrical. Thank you sir!
Great video, I would have liked to see the wire connection into your meter disconnect box on the house! You just showed the conduit running along the house and into the box but it would have been nice to see the connection there as well. Also that looked like 2224 Mobile Home feeder line to the shop, did you direct bury that without conduit to the shop and then just use conduit when it comes back out of the ground to the shop or house? Thanks!
Yes, MHF is rated for direct burial but must be enclosed in conduit once it “stubs up”. I had filmed the connection at the meter pan but it got messed up somehow so I omitted it. Thanks for watching!
I just built a galvanized metal shop and was looking to run electric to it. If you don't mind me asking, how much did all the material cost wiring , breaker box , etc ?
Hope that you drove the ground rod below grade level. The left #2 wire appears to be stripped too much but not a violation. Did not see him use a torque driver to tighten wires in sub panel. Believe a full 100 amp feed to garage would have been better in case you want to install a 240 volt 50 amp EV charger recrptacle.
I think the other side of the ground rod may have exited in China. In this shop we’re running a 240v compressor, welder and HVAC already with plenty of amperage to spare. As for an EV…. I have no plans or interest in my foreseeable future of owning one.
I never liked how the conduit stubs through a building it seems like they should use a compression gasket fitting, i dont think they exist. You rely solely on caulk to keep water out. It's a leak waiting to happen.
(Replying from my new channel) I don’t remember what I paid for it but if you’re interested in using this wire specifically, its called MHF and is readily available at most of the “big box” hardware stores. Good luck
im running a 60g compressor, 30a mini split, welding machine, office, 12 shop receptacles, door opener, 3 lighting circuits and a mini fridge… with plenty of room for more.
@@HiddenCreekHomestead30a minisplit?😮. Meaning it's on a 30a, breaker right? Because I'm about to run electricity to my shop and will install a minisplit and running they just pull like 9 to 13a I think. I'm going to read about grounding because I thought you didn't have to run the ground from the main. Just need to run a grinding rod from the sub panel. Thanks for the video
@@AB_thingsDFW sub panel gets its own ground rod (sometimes 2) ONLY if its on a separate structure. My shop is separate from my house so I added a ground rod. The 30a circuit for the minisplit also has a ground as part of its own circuit.
Thanks Glenn! I was actually surprised at the regulation on private property here outside of city limits. My property was listed as “unrestricted” but they use that term pretty loosely. Their definition of “unrestricted” is a lot different than mine lol
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OMG, I drove a ground rod in with a sledge. Took forever. Thanks for showing that. We were considering a steel building, but I have seen several videos that showed too many problems.
Glad to see you back. The shop looks great, I am sure you are going to get a lot of enjoyment having such a nice place to work. Have a Blessed day.
Thank you, Ive been in need of this space for too long.
love to watch that stuff. I never took to electrical work. Interested about it but just never took the time to learn all about how it all fits together with power, neutral, and ground, amps, volts and ohms. Impressed though with what a neat job you did and all the forethought to think ahead for access points and future expansion.
Thank you, I cheated though… Im an electrician by trade. 18yrs
Sir, nice work. You get the near and workman like title. The only thing I can say for sure you got wrong was your 8 x 8 box is required. 352.26 is that PVC pipe section covering the 4 quarter bends before a pull point.
Now, for anyone about to do this, the NATIONAL ELECTRIC CODE (NEC) can be modified or thrown completely out by your local building guys NEC 90.4.
Please call the building people before you even start the build. Section 230.70 talks about a building disconnect out side the building or close to the entrance inside. If you are beyond what is "close to the entrance" and there might be a lot of rework. Move your panel one foot and the solution might be to replace your wire reach that far.
352.44 again the PVC pipe section calls for slip joints for the PVC pipe to expand and shrink with temperature. There is a chart, but the inspector can require or not.
250.32 talks about grounding this type of building. There is an exception to the ground rod and a reference to the grounding system section which can be seen as needing 2 ground rods.
A phone call or two can get all these questions answered.
Also, consider adding some extra empty pipes to your trench while it is open. Cable/internet, a dinner bell/emergency alert system, and building security systems can simply be pulled into the pipes with any re-digging of any trench.
Also, consider a bathroom fan type timer on your outside light to allow you to walk away with the light on and not return.
Nice job. To make life easer with your cable inside your shop you might want to try flexible conduit instead of the solid pipe. Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching. I almost always run MC in metal buildings.
I think from other Electricians, that on a Sub-Panel, you tie-in to the Main Panel for the Ground Rod, you are Not to put in a Ground Rod at the Sub-Panel.
And do Not Bond the Neutral and the Ground at the Sub-Panel (Which you did correctly). That way everything happens at the Main Breaker and your breakers work safely. Just FYI, from what I heard.
So you’re 1/2 correct. When you read or heard that sub panels dont require a ground rod - that’s completely true. HOWEVER that only applies to sub panels in the SAME building/structure as that building should already employ a ground rod (or two).
The main purpose of the ground rod is protection from lightning which is why the secondary structure must have its own ground rod (and in some municipalities- now TWO ground rods)
Hope that clarifies things a bit!
That ground rod just needs to have a ground resistance of less than 25 ohms. Code is kind of dumb in that if it's greater than 25 a second rod is required and that's it. Nevermind two rods could be 100+ ohms of ground resistance, just needs to be two. It's dumb and not safe. In the utility world we have to sink ground wells until that number is less than 25 no matter how much it takes, which makes sense.
Love how your shop turned out! Did you ever get the garage door opener for it? If you did what kind did you go with and did you have to change the doors or were the original doors good enough?
Absolutely love the 55 Chevy! I first took notice to a 57 gmc 9300 I believe that's the Canadian version on a Show we watch. Been looking for one since lol!
great video - your confidence has really grown
If you mean making videos - THANKS!!! Thats a huge compliment, I still think they’re terrible lol.
@@HiddenCreekHomestead that is what i meant and they never were terrible anyway lol
5:52 those bits are awesome. I used to sell them when I worked at Hilti.
Please check out my new channel which is all footage INSIDE the shop, featuring lots of tools, cool car builds and projects! youtube.com/@intheshoptv?si=7O4L7XoUQ7wdjo-c
Looking good 👍. How deep did you have to trench the wire? Also, when you wire the shop, just remember that you can never have too many outlets.
Thanks! I went 18”. Thats what they require here (no frost line) and consequently, all the rental trenchers are 18” machines. Didn’t even need to go that deep though honestly. Thats true with receptacles
Nice work - did you use wire size 2-2-4-6 wire of 2-2-2-4 MHF wire ?
You need 2 ground rods 6' apart or more. You only need 1 ground rod if you are using it as a supplementary ground to a cold water pipe or rebar in footing.
I believe The mentioned that in the vid
Yeah, probably and I missed it.
What about an expansion fitting on the exposed conduit mounted to the house? That conduit is going to expand and contract over the years.
An important part of 352.44 is the fact that the expansion fitting is required where the expansion is in a straignt run "between securely mounted items". Appropriate bends in the run allow for expansion without an expansion joint. Here we have a total of 4’ of conduit and no frost heave whatsoever. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Thanks for sharing this! I’m planning to do something similar for my detached garage. I’m considering stubbing the conduit up through the slab and into the wall. Is there any reason you didn’t do it this way? Is it just because it would be cumbersome to coordinate the conduit run with the concrete crews and building erectors?
Partially that, but with the metal tube sill plate (bottom frame rail), you dont want to remove a section to make way for the conduit. Nor did I want to stub up in front of the frame rail and sacrifice floor space in a small shop. If it was a stick frame building with 2x6 sill plates, it wouldn’t be an issue.
I am sure this is a dumb question to you pros but I noticed a quick shot of the bad you use for tools and wire nuts while doing electrical. Do you happen to know which bag you got? I want to get one and keep it set up for every time I do electrical. Thank you sir!
Great video, I would have liked to see the wire connection into your meter disconnect box on the house! You just showed the conduit running along the house and into the box but it would have been nice to see the connection there as well. Also that looked like 2224 Mobile Home feeder line to the shop, did you direct bury that without conduit to the shop and then just use conduit when it comes back out of the ground to the shop or house? Thanks!
Yes, MHF is rated for direct burial but must be enclosed in conduit once it “stubs up”. I had filmed the connection at the meter pan but it got messed up somehow so I omitted it. Thanks for watching!
I just built a galvanized metal shop and was looking to run electric to it. If you don't mind me asking, how much did all the material cost wiring , breaker box , etc ?
Hope that you drove the ground rod below grade level. The left #2 wire appears to be stripped too much but not a violation. Did not see him use a torque driver to tighten wires in sub panel. Believe a full 100 amp feed to garage would have been better in case you want to install a 240 volt 50 amp EV charger recrptacle.
I think the other side of the ground rod may have exited in China. In this shop we’re running a 240v compressor, welder and HVAC already with plenty of amperage to spare. As for an EV…. I have no plans or interest in my foreseeable future of owning one.
I did a ufer ground in the slab might be a good idea if local codes allow
They work great, its a little late for that in my scenario though lol
I never liked how the conduit stubs through a building it seems like they should use a compression gasket fitting, i dont think they exist. You rely solely on caulk to keep water out. It's a leak waiting to happen.
They sell gasket material but I much prefer silicone. Leaks aren’t that common on vertical penetrations if caulked properly.
I wanna know what the wire cost and where you got it please about to do the same thing
(Replying from my new channel) I don’t remember what I paid for it but if you’re interested in using this wire specifically, its called MHF and is readily available at most of the “big box” hardware stores. Good luck
Approx how much was garage build plus slab? 30k
$27k just over $30k with grading
13:41 Did you 'direct-bury' that triplex?
It’s MHF cable which is rated for direct burial
So if I run like a big air compressor can I run still what u running
im running a 60g compressor, 30a mini split, welding machine, office, 12 shop receptacles, door opener, 3 lighting circuits and a mini fridge… with plenty of room for more.
@@HiddenCreekHomestead ok thanks so much for responding back to me , by God Grace I’ll be getting my shop next month your video are so helpful
@@matthewbarnes4993 You’re very welcome. Good luck!
@@HiddenCreekHomestead30a minisplit?😮. Meaning it's on a 30a, breaker right? Because I'm about to run electricity to my shop and will install a minisplit and running they just pull like 9 to 13a I think. I'm going to read about grounding because I thought you didn't have to run the ground from the main. Just need to run a grinding rod from the sub panel. Thanks for the video
@@AB_thingsDFW sub panel gets its own ground rod (sometimes 2) ONLY if its on a separate structure. My shop is separate from my house so I added a ground rod. The 30a circuit for the minisplit also has a ground as part of its own circuit.
No county clowns came by to "inspect" your work? Its FIRST class regardless!!!!
Thanks Glenn! I was actually surprised at the regulation on private property here outside of city limits. My property was listed as “unrestricted” but they use that term pretty loosely. Their definition of “unrestricted” is a lot different than mine lol
Get an inspection for insurance purposes.