Cheers. My wife often tells me to slow down and explain things more easily, I forget that just because I know how to do something, I shouldn't assume everyone else does. Jennifer's made up with your comment.
So I'm coming from 2 years of riding with about 8600 miles under my belt. I don't ride fast or super hard, I have no interest in top speed runs, but I love the "feel" of supersports. of my 8600 miles, 7500 of it was on a ninja 650 and the rest was on my wifes Harly Nightster. I test rode an S1000RR, ZX6R, and an R7, and I feel like I want the S1000RR the most, not only because of the speed (which isn't the biggest thing to me) but the comfort and the tech with it. I ride ~60 miles a day round trip to and from work on an empty toll road (free tolls for motorcycles). How bad would it be to get an S1000RR and set up a mode to have the "rain" engine settings but a nicer throttle response? If they made an S600RR or something like that I would 100% go for that, I just hear everyone telling me "you can't handle a liter bike" but that's from people who ride liters for hitting that 180 mph mark. I'm simply not interested in going that fast. I'm 31, have a 4 year old at home, have a clean driving record, and can't risk an arrest (or reckless driving ticket) due to work.
You sound like you are struggling to figure out what you need not what you want. You can ride something like a S1000RR set up in a soft setting, suspension, engine, throttle control and you'll find it very smooth and calm easy to ride. The same machine set up in a race type setting will be a very different machine to ride. What machine you pick should fit your requirements, so that's where I would start. Blank paper and write what you need first, budget, size of machine, what you are likely to to do on the machine etc. Then look at machines that fit your criteria. Your 'want' list will always be 'bigger' than your 'need' list, but until you see it all written down you'll struggle to join the dots. Good luck.
I think the DDC Calibration necessary only when you change prelaod. it also doesn't make sense that if you need to change between race pro modes on the fly, that you need to dismount recalibrate and back on. i am maybe wrong
@@MikeSpikeEdwardsddc calibration doesn't do anything when you just change settings in the dash. It won't even run the calibrates unless you change your sag and preload. In the manual it says you can change your damping settings while riding
Good question, I still have the centre stand fitted so I don't have an answer other than there must be a relay or wiring/switch mod that can simulate the side stand switch.
Simply put if you increase the number, zero to +7 you are increasing the amount of traction control which reduces the amount of wheel spin by reducing the power to the rear wheel. From zero to -7 you are allowing the wheel to spin more as the ECU puts more power to the rear wheel thus more spin and more drive. But the range of -7 to +7 is different in the various power modes.
You are looking at this for the wrong direction, there is no 'best set up' the way you should be thinking is 'what is a better setting for me'. DDC is the damping setting for the suspension the first number is the combined rebound and compression for the front suspension, the second number is the rear compression setting and the third number is the rebound setting for the rear suspension. Unless you fit an external dash pot to measure front suspension movement the rebound and compression are linked and you can't alter them individually, however the rear having a external dash pot means the rebound and compression can be altered separately. The higher the number the firmer or harder the damping is but this is a personal setting that you must develop with experience.
No, the power is the same basically, however within the settings you can adjust how the bike feels, how it responds on the throttle. This might initially make it feel more powerful but in fact the actual power output is the same with the exception of the rain mode where the overall response is dialed back.
The lady speaking really helped clear up some questions I was having kudos to her
Cheers. My wife often tells me to slow down and explain things more easily, I forget that just because I know how to do something, I shouldn't assume everyone else does. Jennifer's made up with your comment.
good explanation
This is so helpfull iv just got my s1000rr and it's in the shop for its 1000km service with the de-restriction.
The fun has begun :)
Thanks for the information
So I'm coming from 2 years of riding with about 8600 miles under my belt. I don't ride fast or super hard, I have no interest in top speed runs, but I love the "feel" of supersports. of my 8600 miles, 7500 of it was on a ninja 650 and the rest was on my wifes Harly Nightster. I test rode an S1000RR, ZX6R, and an R7, and I feel like I want the S1000RR the most, not only because of the speed (which isn't the biggest thing to me) but the comfort and the tech with it.
I ride ~60 miles a day round trip to and from work on an empty toll road (free tolls for motorcycles). How bad would it be to get an S1000RR and set up a mode to have the "rain" engine settings but a nicer throttle response? If they made an S600RR or something like that I would 100% go for that, I just hear everyone telling me "you can't handle a liter bike" but that's from people who ride liters for hitting that 180 mph mark. I'm simply not interested in going that fast. I'm 31, have a 4 year old at home, have a clean driving record, and can't risk an arrest (or reckless driving ticket) due to work.
You sound like you are struggling to figure out what you need not what you want. You can ride something like a S1000RR set up in a soft setting, suspension, engine, throttle control and you'll find it very smooth and calm easy to ride.
The same machine set up in a race type setting will be a very different machine to ride. What machine you pick should fit your requirements, so that's where I would start.
Blank paper and write what you need first, budget, size of machine, what you are likely to to do on the machine etc. Then look at machines that fit your criteria. Your 'want' list will always be 'bigger' than your 'need' list, but until you see it all written down you'll struggle to join the dots.
Good luck.
I think the DDC Calibration necessary only when you change prelaod. it also doesn't make sense that if you need to change between race pro modes on the fly, that you need to dismount recalibrate and back on. i am maybe wrong
I agree with the idea of doing it after adjusting the preload, however I was told to do it after any suspension adjustments.
@@MikeSpikeEdwardsddc calibration doesn't do anything when you just change settings in the dash. It won't even run the calibrates unless you change your sag and preload. In the manual it says you can change your damping settings while riding
Awesome thanks
I just want to know what the damping assist setting does
TBH not sure, I assume its something to do with the Dynamic setting.
When doing the DDC calibration, what do you do if you don't have a sidestand? I assume you don't on your race bike?
Good question, I still have the centre stand fitted so I don't have an answer other than there must be a relay or wiring/switch mod that can simulate the side stand switch.
@MikeSpikeEdwards I tried doing it on my mates bike with no side stand and it seemed to fail :-(
Hi can you explain the dtc - and +
Simply put if you increase the number, zero to +7 you are increasing the amount of traction control which reduces the amount of wheel spin by reducing the power to the rear wheel. From zero to -7 you are allowing the wheel to spin more as the ECU puts more power to the rear wheel thus more spin and more drive. But the range of -7 to +7 is different in the various power modes.
Hi what’s the best set up for ddc mine is 2-2-3
You are looking at this for the wrong direction, there is no 'best set up' the way you should be thinking is 'what is a better setting for me'. DDC is the damping setting for the suspension the first number is the combined rebound and compression for the front suspension, the second number is the rear compression setting and the third number is the rebound setting for the rear suspension.
Unless you fit an external dash pot to measure front suspension movement the rebound and compression are linked and you can't alter them individually, however the rear having a external dash pot means the rebound and compression can be altered separately.
The higher the number the firmer or harder the damping is but this is a personal setting that you must develop with experience.
I thought the little orange face on the dash was speaking to him
You've given me a great idea there 😉
is the bike les stronger in normal race mode than Race pro modes ?
No, the power is the same basically, however within the settings you can adjust how the bike feels, how it responds on the throttle. This might initially make it feel more powerful but in fact the actual power output is the same with the exception of the rain mode where the overall response is dialed back.
@@MikeSpikeEdwards Thanks!
Zoom out
What in particular do you want to see by zooming out? I might have covered it in another video.