We were working at a federal laboratory and the QAQC guy came around and asked me what I torqued at. I proceeded to quote a wise funny man and told him "I tighten them until I a crack and then a quarter turn back" Well he did not think that was funny and went and got my supervisor and demanded all of the 100s of bolts that I had tightened had to be removed and replaced even though I told him it was a joke and quoted the proper torque spec (125 lb ft) Even though my coworkers and superintendent thought it was funny when I told them, the QAQC guy for that fed lab did not and called me Incompetent and that i had questionable ethics.
Oooo that fed lab guy must be really important eh. So important he constantly needs to prove what a douchbag he is. Not to worry, those kind of people are living in a hell of their own devising.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 The fed lab guy is unavailable for comment due to safe and effective gov mandated turbidity, viscosity and flow problems in his cardiovascular apparatus with a few neurological impairments on the side.
I had a 18v dewalt, about 15 years of age, that was destroyed by a 6" hole saw. It still works, but it's slow, glows orange, and creates an odd aroma when you use it.
Mine got real silly . The motor busted out of the case as I was pushing on it. It was kinda funny to see the guts spin in the case and rip wires and turn to a stop,it reminded me of that engine dyno blowup where all that's left is the crank sitting there.
One man's odd aroma is another man's incense. I'd consider that drill a censer and use it to bestow blessings on yer fellow sinners and sinnerettes. The hacking cough is a sign that the Holy Spirit has come.
I was always under the impression that the right way to tighten them was to reef on it until you hear the crack from your wrist, then shake your hand vigorously while using liberal amounts of profanity. It’s always worked for me.
then use the channel locks to actually hold it in place. i've grown somewhat tired of keyless and cordless for any thing other than drilling small holes in wood and driving drywall/deckscrews.
I think maybe this came from the fact that the latest keyless chucks(last 5 or 6 years at least) on at least the Dewalt drills, do act differently than the older ones. With the older ones, you'd just hold the chuck and press the trigger to either tighten or loosen the chuck, and it worked great, But the newer ones, if you tighten by pulling the trigger, you then need to give it a good twist by hand IN THE TIGHTENING DIRECTION, in order for it to hold well. Lot's of folk think their newer drill chucks are defective because of this.
The official method is to grab the chuck and pull the trigger Same idea as hitting that little red button on the angle grinder, it stops instantly and ejects the locking ring for the disc
After dealing with an old grinder for a while that tended to eject whatever's on it when it's coming at a stop- a full speed disc would be horrifyingly dangerous, but also really fun to play with haha
Fidel's son, Justin, has. Then, just like your loyal canine companion rolling over for a satisfying belly rub, many Canadian beavers have become accustomed to the fast finger. An unhappy beaver is dangerous to be around.
Why bother telling them? They already know or don't care. It's for the vidya views. You commenting on those stupid videos only helps to drive the algorithm in their favor.
It actually has been in a manual, can't remember which though, I believe it was 3 manufactures that backed up the rumor about the feature, those that didn't back it up was either a didn't know humpty or a cheap tools place person that knows absolutely nothing.
Never had a problem with a ratcheting chuck coming loose assuming it was tightened properly to begin with. Always seemed like they they were better than keyed chucks too
I saw a video just a few hours ago claiming this on just about all major brands. The only thing that happened when I tried it on my Dewalt was that it got 1 click closer to loosening, which is as much as I expected. It only takes a few seconds of critical thinking to have the BS detector go off.
Exactly what I said when I saw it... "Wait, that's just a click closer to loosening.... BULLSHIT!" It's already locked when you tighten it, that's the damn purpose of a locking chuck from the get go!
You see something like this all the time, really. They sell a product with x name and it's the exact same as their y name product but the y cost more. What gives? What difference is there? Marketing, and deactivated features or otherwise neutered product output. Corvette vs cadallic cts, same chassis, same engine, corvette always faster, ctsv is detuned. Cell phones, new flagship comes out but now there's three varieties, they all have the same dimension but supposedly different specs? Que? Same shit on the inside, just subjectively neutered for a price point. So in this case brands hide features/output capability in order to sell the same package in a different box for more money.
@@772tsweet77 If the drill doesn't hold a bit without you using some super secret 'feature' you're most likely not going to buy the same brand again. Secondly this wouldn't be the same as designing something to fail just after warranty, if a drill doesn't hold onto bits while in warranty people are going to warranty it. Hiding a feature rather than omitting it makes zero sense, if you cant omit the feature on even the most basic drill you sell you sell the feature as a brand-standard feature, you don't hide it on every single fucking product you sell in the hope that people are going to buy more drills from you somehow.
Keep looking at those patents - I've found a few that reference manual locking mechanisms that use a cam to positively lock the mechanism above and beyond the ratchet for hammer drill applications (Rohm and Jacobs have some variation). Though I have yet to find the exact incarnation described in the video making the rounds.
Interesting! When I was a machinist, we never put drills in a chuck in a CNC mill or lathe. It would be crazy to see a chuck with the kind of force those machines have. I like that you destroy your tools so we don’t have to. Great work!
That collet set in 1/64ths, Letters, Numbers, and Metric sure does take up a lot of shelf space though. I guess you can only get away with a few sizes of a CNC drill because you can helix-mill or bore odd sizes from a pilot hole.
Eh... I've used 'em before. The runout is always garbage and they slip if you look at them funny but sometimes all you need is two odd sized holes per part in a five part run so you just load what you've got and run it with your hand on the feed hold. If it makes you feel any worse the shop I am thinking of where that happened the most was also mounting the chuck via a taper drill to CAT50 adapter.
In a lathe it is no big deal if it isn't in live tooling it isn't spinning, not used often but can be used just make sure it's tight because if it pushes back you will have problems with following tools.
I had a dude at work tell me this trick and I told him to pound sand. Meanwhile, his bits keep falling out because "the lock on his drill is fucked up" 🤣
I got a DeWalt DCD796 and I can confirm that when I insert the bit and as I tighten the chuck I feel the initial locking motion, hear a clear "click", then FOLLOWED by several ratcheting sounds. So that backwards click movement you'd feel/hear is that indeed the first initial locking mechanism disengaging.
As someone who has gone through probably 20 Bosch drills in the last 8 years and has broken more Chucks than Shaquille O'Neal, this was a no wiper. I think the guy in the original video watched a few QD suppressor mount videos and thought drills were the same.
To be fair, the guy in the original video didn't say it was a real thing or not. He was posing the question to his audience because he called several of the major brands and a bunch of their techs confirmed it as a feature of the chuck. And a couple said either they weren't sure, or they hadn't heard of it.
Tell me bud, did your bearing on your Bosch head start developing slop/play every time? I've got a genuine Bosch unit and honestly it works like a champ but the head's already been replaced and again it developed noticeable slop.
@@NG-VQ37VHR 'didn't say it was a real thing or not' Realize, this is quite possibly real, but not anything 'hidden', simply a consequence of an emergent function of the chuck. Tighten the chuck tight. Any energy into the chuck hits that wall of 'tight' and can bounce back, loosening the chuck. Tighten the chuck tight, then back off slightly. Any energy into the chuck moves the chuck forward, hammering it more tight, then can bounce back. The 'bounce back' energy then may not exceed the 'more tight' part of the energy. There are other things where you do a similar 'back off of right at the edge, because if you don't a hammer effect can make it loosen up'. Energy reflecting backwards from something that can no longer move forward is a thing. Put a ball bearing next to a huge piece of steel as a backing object. Hit the bearing with a hammer, and notice that not only does your hammer bounce back, the bearing comes away from the backing object as well. There is a reason people are saying their bits loosen up if they leave the chuck 'tight', but don't if they back the moving part off. Don't take that lightly, they aren't all just making it up.
Come down each day to drill through case hardened steel with diamond bits. Until they fail and are carried away by Rhinemaidens. To drink electrons and sing 'til midnight.
I am so glad you made this video. As a man that has used battery drills since they first came out I had never heard of the one click back lock feature. I have never needed it either. I have only had one drill in my life that had bits drop out of it through usage. That was a Ridgid that I returned for service three times. When I got it back on the third time, they had sent me a new drill.
There's a lot of people who never properly used a tool in their whole life, who are self proclaimed tool experts just because they own a bunch. But the sad part is that there's enough "tools" behind home computers to buy their BS and even make them successful on the interwebs. However, for those of us who regularly wear tools out, the second hand market is pretty fantastic. Once I bought a second hand 22V Hilti drill. The guy sold it because it had some scratches. His garage looked like a tool shop showroom. I was about to ask him if I should take my shoes off when he opened the door.
The large hole saw is actually reducing the shock experienced by the tightening sleeve so it doesn't easily undo even if fully unratcheted. I think if you try it again with just a simple drill bit the experiment will give the expected results.
@@BrianRRenfro The DeWalts did it alot i used at work. Had to be careful though cuz they also liked to get stuck at full open if you just grabbed it by hand and put it in reverse and let er rip to open it up.
Ive done lots of repetative batt drilling and its the steel outer that has enough weight to undo itself, hence you had better results with the plastic makita chuck.
Someone tell these creators that, much like a drill chuck, their car isn't properly parked until their parking pawl falls on the previous tooth. Maybe we can keep them in their driveways long enough to stop any more of their "secrets" being revealed.
Couldn't ask for a better vijeo before bed! When I saw the title of the initial vijeo, my BS allergy started to kick in. But... Yet again uncle AvE summoned the blue smoke monster to show us all... Don't believe everything you see online
What needs to be done is a Project Farm style test where you see the force needed to pull a bit out. Apply X number of clicks and then pull with a force gauge to see how much.
Ahh Hilti, the job I worked at had 5 of them die in a year in our shop, two died completely while three at first stopped having the autobrake when letting go, then couldn't change direction. The battery also lasted just for a few holes with 10mm drill, mind you they were on a "intelligent" charger when being cycled and all under Hilti's regular checks. Oh also two got their chucks destroyed also in matter of months. They weren't abused, drilling mostly plastics and aluminium. I don't know if it's the same with other brands, I'd love to hear.
I tried a couple hilti cordless drills. their chucks are garbage, drills complete with battery too heavy and way overpriced. I have to say their service is great. Had a 3 month old drill got a little wet from the rain(aka completely submerged in the wheelbarrow) 2 days after i dropped the machine off at the hilti store i got a call; my machine was repaired, complete new exept the housing(because of the serial no.) and free of charge. Now i have almost everything Makita, 1/3 of the price compared to Hilti and cant really complain about makitas preformance, still use hilti for epoxy anchor grout
I am sorry to hear the hilti's are such junk. Disappointing cause I've always had my eye on them being the premium industrial name brand While I think makita makes better tools, i have to say my dewalt drills I literally kick around on the job site when they're in my way. I don't forsee having issues with them I've been drilling half inch holes in steel with them, augering 4" post holes in rocky soil with my dcd485, mixing 5 gal buckets of drywall mud, paint and thinset on 3rd and 2nd gear, and they are such a blast to use. The first time i had to mix mortar with my bosses new makita 1/2 inch drill and I smoked it and he took it back. not saying anything cause I do believe makita makes a better quality more smoothe tool with often better features but I've been having good luck with dewalts drills
I use Makita cordless tools installing stair railings and banisters. I buy the cheapest LXT drill drivers and impacts as I'm only drilling 1" or smaller holes in wood, but a lot of them for balusters. I've never had an impact die, but the drills last about two years with daily use. Every one I've owned eventually starts slipping gears.
I hopped you would take care of this and you do not disappoint! I watched the other video yesterday and thought it sounded like the the direction change of a socket wrench.
I also thought it was BS, but I have tried it and it really tightens up the Chuck. Setup: I have a paint mixer that I use to mix concrete powder with water (I know... It is Bad for the bearings and there are better Tools for it...). Without clicking the Chuck back, the paint mixer often gets loose after a few minutes. With the back click, it has been Holding for over a week of continued use (several 8Ah batteries). So at least with a 18V Bosch Drill, it works.
I don't remember where I first saw this, year or two ago maybe. And I thought it was from an official manufacturer source. Maybe it was on the Skookum subreddit? Wish I could remember because it wasn't just some random Joe. Useless without a good source, I know :( . In any case, I never even bothered to test it because my logic was "It's slower to do and I've never had an issue with the chuck letting go, so why would I care if this is some enhanced grip mode?"
@@arduinoversusevil2025 Hmm, no specific memory of this, don't remember the watery audio, but yeah, that's about how long it was. Timing is roughly right, it was a while ago. To think, there used to be hundreds of these little statements that, before the internet, no one could ever verify. It's rare to see something be passably believable but still BS in thr modern day
I've broken enough of these chucks and inspected the parts to know that such a feature doesn't exist. Loosening it only loosens it. But I've got an open mind, anyone who thinks otherwise is welcome to show me the mechanism by which this happens.
Well hey even your name is chuck but youre wrong. I have Milwaukee drills with the feature. Let me look through the manual and quote it for you old timers
Thanks for the definitive clarification. I have noticed slight differences between different drills Chuck mechanisms and after seeing the video immediately went and checked the next drill I used. I have the Metabo which didn't but when I first got it I noticed it acted a little different from most of the keyless Chuck drills I've used. So the next day I tried to DeWalt at work and sure enough it did disengage. So I'll just say I confused it seems to be a common design element that got passed through pretty much everybody's designs.
I bet a new tool is super excited when it arrives at the empire of dirt for its first day. Right up until the other tools tell him that you are the kid from toy story.
I've just always tightened chucks (keyed and keyless) until I couldn't tighten them anymore, within reason. Stuff doesn't slip, loosen, or fall out. Conclusion: Tighter = stronger hold.
I reverse back and forth with wire wheels as the wires will sharpen one way or another. Since trying this locking feature I don't swear as much trying to find where the wire wheel went.
…and that’s why I automatically take those off and put a keyed Jacobs chuck on. Bonus feature,you put a 1/2 chuck on what used to be a puny 3/8 cordless drill.
I use a couple of keyless chucks daily. I'm glad I have not watched that dumbular video that's makin' the rounds. I'm glad I waited for youze to sets us straight. Thanks from Jet City Turbines! Come visit if you're ever up FSJ way.
So happy you made this video. I saw those other videos amd decided to try for myself. After trying the "back click" my hole saw loosed multiple times. Something I've never had happen doing it the normal way.
Great Video, AvE. I wonder how many Waterheads are going to return there drills because the secret chuck lock is not working and the bits keep falling out. I always thought if the chuck slips, grab the Channel lock 440’s and tighten it down some more. The other option would be to grind flats on bit to break the bit instead of spinning, drill bits that is. Thanks for spreading truth.
My first thought was that it was complete bullshit, especially knowing how a ratcheting chuck works internally…. However, I have to play devils advocate, and question why several of the tech support lines appear to confirm it is the “proper” way to use the chuck? Perhaps the original thinking was to prevent the chuck from being over tightened? Or becoming jammed?
I've experienced varying levels of inconsistencies with drill chucks I think it has a lot to do with quality control when they're built to I've had exact same brand same type Chuck one work great one always loosen up since new
had one 18 Volt Dewalt that would not stay tight, unless tightened with Channel Loks, very annoying...only one I have run across that did not stay tight
Did you try the one click back trick with the bad chuck? I'm sure it will work with that one. The manufacture just didn't tell you about it because it's a SECRET!
I've found that chucks will get dust in them (think jacobs chucks on hammer drills), at which point you can tighten them all you want, but all the torque you're putting into the collar is being borne by friction in the mechanism instead of force against the drill shank. Dirty chucks won't get as tight as they should and they won't stay tight. A lot of keyless chucks like those found on cordless tools are really never meant to be disassembled, so cleaning them is pretty much out of the question. It's a fair point to make that Jacobs-style chucks have no place on a hammer drill, but that ship has already sailed. Still, drilling masonry isn't the only way to get abrasive dust into the chuck.
Outside of the main topic, 'cos why not. I love that you keep the volume down when violating the equipment in this or other way. Senks for not abusing my eardrums via headphones.
The quarter inch reverse click works. I drill utility poles with my Dewalt DCD998 drill all day. If I fail to reverse lock the chuck my 3/4"*18" bit will fall out after about 3 poles. Once locked it stays in until I remove it.
@@jimmeyers8960 I know for a fact it works but never disassembled to investigate it. IMO I believe you are simply disengaging the forward ratcheting mechanism and that prevents high torque and vibration from loosening the chuck. I simply know for a fact it works on my drill.
That little trick is how I loosen the bit. My locking chucks use a slip ring that pulls back. The only unknown feature is that the handle is also a hammer. Not really, but its robust enough to drive in a plastic insert. I want my electric drill/screwdriver to have a handle that is made for light hammering.
I know it's not engineered to work but there's so much anecdotal evidence of it working there has to be something like let's say a tooth is engaged 70% and a motion applies that presses it down to dead flat. the momentum of that force can be enough to chain react and loosen enough for a bit to fall out
Thank you. I did see the video and thought, “Hey, that’s cool.” I tried it on one of my DeWalt drills. The bit still falls out if I don’t tighten the chuck enough. I’ve been calling BS on this. Intuitively it just didn’t sound right. Chuck likes it tight.
That does present an interesting improvement to be made to the patented design. You could make it so that backing off the chuck could tighten down and effectively push the pivot point of the pawl forward half a click before it disengages. That outer ring looks to have plenty of space for lengthening the notch in it and give it a second detent that releases the pawl. You'd basically get some free mechanical advantage right at the last ratchet but it's not like you really need it.
No, you'd just be introducing a failure point that would cause the chuck to fail with something in it. The problem with that is the bolt you have to remove to disassemble the chuck is at the bottom of the chuck, meaning a chuck that failed this way would ruin the entire drill. Oh, yes, you can remove and replace a chuck cheaply and easily, by the way, it's designed to prevent you from haveing to replace the entire drill when the chuck nut goes bad. In fact, you can rebuild and repair any part of the drill.
I did this on my Dewalt dcd791 after watching a video recently, and it locks the chuck like the devil's grip. It's impossible to open up the chuck without pliers - and my forearms are big.
I don't count clicks, just tighten really hard down on the bit, then turn the chuck in reverse a smidge until I feel it let's go. I actually followed the video you point to, and it worked for me. I haven't tested it on any other drill yet.
I find the quarter turn back trick works but only on certain keyless chucks. Also, when the chuck jambs like that, Smack the jaws against something hard (like an apprentice) to loosen it.
Honestly if you actually used warranties I wouldn't be at all surprised if they came with a specific clause "Warranty void when used by AvE" Ever consider a job in stress testing equipment?
I've always preferred keyed chucks anyway (although I have 2 makita 331s and the 453 shown here with keyless chucks) there is just something about the key I trust more knowing it's tightened down because I did it.
Keyed chucks is the only ones that works... These tight by hand ones leads to damaged wrist from trying to tighten them more and more when your drill just rotates inside the chuck because it is impossible to tighten it enough.
I was skeptical about this 'trick'and was eager to prove it (hopefully true). So I tried it. Lost a Unibit into a bench tank full of oil by trying it. Would the Unibit have fallen out if I didn't try it? Dunno. What I *DO* know is it didn't prevent it.
THANK YOU! I saw the original video and thought it just didn't add up, not the video it self but the claim itself. 16 hours later here you are doing the proper testing. Good on you!
I really like your video. When I first heard of the secret click, it sounded like a lot of BS. I think that you may be missing the point for the lock pawl. The inertial mass of the large hole saw is supported and moved by the chuck jaws, and should not be able to loosen the chuck (as was evident in your test). The lock pawl is to stop the inertial mass of the chuck itself from loosening the jaws when suddenly stopped, suddenly reversed (or possibly while using the hammer function).
I found a similar hidden feature on my car that allows my to get DOUBLE my usual gas mileage! As I'm driving down the road at high speed, I simply change the gear selector from "D" to "R" and just like that, my MPG doubles!
@@robert_g_fbg I did that with my 4 cylinder Chevy Monza in the 1980's and was told by my friend that it was illegal, I called the police and that officer claimed it was a unsafe practice to do that, illegal I don't recall if he said so??? Common sense to disengage the clutch going down hills, YES. Very very steep hills maybe NO..
I also heard you should not tighten cutoff wheels on angle grinders all the way. You wanna tighten it and then back half a turn. If it's too tight the vibration will cause it to break but if you loosen it a half turn it gives it some elasticity. lol. Don't do this. I just made this BS up. but maybe I should make a video out of it and make a quick buck while endangering people.
your not entirely wrong though, every 250lb welding gorilla who has seen that 14th hour will tell ya "it's a tool not a day at the gym, don't tighten the disk down so hard you crush it." actually did this myself tired wasn't thinking so i just right cranked it down spun that disk up got about half way through the pipe before it popped off the hub and ran across the shop scaring the shit out of everyone. Rule o thumb is don't use the bar tool to tighten cut off disks. that tool is for grinding disks and removing disks. The inertia will tighten them down for you just use your hand on the disk and hold the stop button in and for god sake make sure it's unplugged well you do.
I'd been doing it wrong for years. Until the day I was hiding from "El Jeffe" in the outhouse, reading the manual for my new cordless drill. I had been tightening the chuck like I was squeezing the last drop out of my prick, and STILL spinning 1/2" bits whilst wallowing out the holes for 5/8" hardware. I wish I could find it again, but I'd swear I read it myself... "Tighten, then turn back to disengage something-something to prevent the hand-job-o-magic chuck® from loosening during vigorous use"... Did it work for me? Yes. YMMV
I had the same experience. I definitely read that in one of the DeWalt manuals while taking a shit at the shop. It was probably 10 years ago but I know without a doubt that I've read it in a DeWalt manual before!!!!
“Anti-theft Teal”. (By golly the most underrated line of the video.) As a person who happened to find a makita in an RTU upon arrival. I will use this term from here on out. Thanks
I'm not sure what the mechanics behind it are, but I DO in fact use this trick on my Metabo Futuro Plus S1M chuck that I installed on my dewalt DCD791. It pretty much never looses a bit with this trick. I've been doing it soo long that it's just normal for me. When I get back to work I'll try it the 'standard way' with no back click, I'm sure we'll get another metal panel job that needs like 200 holes drilled. I'll try it both ways and let you know how it goes...
Talking about chuck loosening on sudden stops, during my apprenticeship there was that one drill press that had an automatic brake... every single time you drilled something and turned that damn thing off, the chuck would loosen and the drill would fall out, no matter how hard you tightened the chuck... It also had a reverse, unusable with the chuck, sine the acceletation from a DOL switched motor would loosen the chuck on startup in reverse
Has anyone ever found a smaller drill for using those big tooth monsters like in the video? I've burnt up several doing this trying to cut big holes in tanks. I found the secret is using it on low speed, turning reverse direction, and allowing friction to cut the hole slowly, but was wondering if there was a better drill to use that won't create the smoke-screen.
No small drill motor can handle the torque or the heat generated by trying turn a hole saw that large. Think big motor = more better heat dissipation and longevity. Metal housing drills will transfer the heat and handle the torque better than plastic. Look for an OLD Milwaukee corded drill (hole shooter, hole hawg or hammer drill) with an actual keyed 1/2 or 3/4 inch Jacobs chuck (bigger chuck = designed for bigger holes and more abuse). You can find them on ebay, estate or yard sales. They were designed and built for that. You can purchase them cheap because nobody wants a corded drill any more. Bonus if you can get the metal box to store it in. Watch your wrists when using though - there IS a learning curve - they bite! You can also try an abrasive diamond or carbide hole saw bit for metal but you will still have to deal with the torque and heat generated. Or buy a new small drill motor every day and exchange it when it dies 🔥. Plumbers that do new house rough in work drill lots of holes like that daily (in wood) - look at what they are using. Hope this helps.
Chocco has it correct. You need a Hole Hawg type of drill when bits get over the 1/2" size. We use to go through 1 or 2 hammer drills a year before we found out they're only good for drilling through mortar, Makita tended to last the longest. Stepped up to SDS and haven't bought a new one for a decade or so. If you're cutting that many holes in tanks, would a plasma cutter with circle jig be beneficial to you?
I dunno guys, I've been using the quarterturn back trick for two weeks now and my hair's thicker and my hockey stick's longer. But suit yourself.
Yep, it’s made me stronger as well. When I was younger I couldn’t bend my erection, but now I can. That’s visible scientifically measureable progress.
Fired ,, BAAHAA
@@teamidris I think it's the other way round: some part has become weaker, unfortunately ... ;-)
@@raspam :D
And it looks like real hair! Now how much would you pay?
That Makita chose to self-destruct rather than give up it's secrets.
Lol...that's so funny. Thanks for the laugh.
We were working at a federal laboratory and the QAQC guy came around and asked me what I torqued at. I proceeded to quote a wise funny man and told him "I tighten them until I a crack and then a quarter turn back" Well he did not think that was funny and went and got my supervisor and demanded all of the 100s of bolts that I had tightened had to be removed and replaced even though I told him it was a joke and quoted the proper torque spec (125 lb ft) Even though my coworkers and superintendent thought it was funny when I told them, the QAQC guy for that fed lab did not and called me Incompetent and that i had questionable ethics.
Oooo that fed lab guy must be really important eh. So important he constantly needs to prove what a douchbag he is. Not to worry, those kind of people are living in a hell of their own devising.
Heh heh heh...
Can't
Understand
Normal
Thinking.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 The fed lab guy is unavailable for comment due to safe and effective gov mandated turbidity, viscosity and flow problems in his cardiovascular apparatus with a few neurological impairments on the side.
Yeah, the guy sounds like a dick. Dicks aren't funny, they just look funny
I had a 18v dewalt, about 15 years of age, that was destroyed by a 6" hole saw. It still works, but it's slow, glows orange, and creates an odd aroma when you use it.
Many a man has been destroyed by a 6 inch hole..
That means it’s run in and ready to use. The smell is “normal” for that model 😂😂😂
Mine got real silly .
The motor busted out of the case as I was pushing on it.
It was kinda funny to see the guts spin in the case and rip wires and turn to a stop,it reminded me of that engine dyno blowup where all that's left is the crank sitting there.
One man's odd aroma is another man's incense. I'd consider that drill a censer and use it to bestow blessings on yer fellow sinners and sinnerettes. The hacking cough is a sign that the Holy Spirit has come.
@@MrTheHillfolk So the drill prolapsed?
I was always under the impression that the right way to tighten them was to reef on it until you hear the crack from your wrist, then shake your hand vigorously while using liberal amounts of profanity.
It’s always worked for me.
did you know you can fertilize your lawn with old motor oil?
@@noway5096 you can fertilize your wife with wine and chocolate.
Glad I’m not the only one
@@noway5096 but it's a great desert topping so don't waste it.
then use the channel locks to actually hold it in place. i've grown somewhat tired of keyless and cordless for any thing other than drilling small holes in wood and driving drywall/deckscrews.
My back has a secret feature, it clicks when I get out of bed every morning and locks in position
I think maybe this came from the fact that the latest keyless chucks(last 5 or 6 years at least) on at least the Dewalt drills, do act differently than the older ones. With the older ones, you'd just hold the chuck and press the trigger to either tighten or loosen the chuck, and it worked great, But the newer ones, if you tighten by pulling the trigger, you then need to give it a good twist by hand IN THE TIGHTENING DIRECTION, in order for it to hold well. Lot's of folk think their newer drill chucks are defective because of this.
AvE never fails to please, once the patents start coming out you know your're in trouble
This is an accident waiting to happen
The official method is to grab the chuck and pull the trigger
Same idea as hitting that little red button on the angle grinder, it stops instantly and ejects the locking ring for the disc
Standard procedure on pillar drills too, to stop the chuck instead of waiting for it to spin down xD
After dealing with an old grinder for a while that tended to eject whatever's on it when it's coming at a stop- a full speed disc would be horrifyingly dangerous, but also really fun to play with haha
I got a nasty friction burn the last time I did that 🤣
@@uptowndisco2 You're not supposed to grab it with your thighs 😂
We call that efficient.
Didn't Canadia ban that kind of trigger function?
Fidel's son, Justin, has. Then, just like your loyal canine companion rolling over for a satisfying belly rub, many Canadian beavers have become accustomed to the fast finger. An unhappy beaver is dangerous to be around.
That looked like he was using his bump stock…
No but Britain did!
That there be a bubblefack bump stock
Workin on it🙃
Thank you for this, ive been telling these snake oil sellers that its fake and literally no tool manufacturer has this in their manuals anywhere.
Why bother telling them? They already know or don't care. It's for the vidya views. You commenting on those stupid videos only helps to drive the algorithm in their favor.
Who ever reads a manual for a drill? 😂
It actually has been in a manual, can't remember which though, I believe it was 3 manufactures that backed up the rumor about the feature, those that didn't back it up was either a didn't know humpty or a cheap tools place person that knows absolutely nothing.
@@Masterfighterx Which manufacturers, exactly
@@ThatToast Can't remember the third one, but 2 of them were Bosch and Makita.
Never had a problem with a ratcheting chuck coming loose assuming it was tightened properly to begin with. Always seemed like they they were better than keyed chucks too
I saw a video just a few hours ago claiming this on just about all major brands. The only thing that happened when I tried it on my Dewalt was that it got 1 click closer to loosening, which is as much as I expected.
It only takes a few seconds of critical thinking to have the BS detector go off.
Exactly what I said when I saw it... "Wait, that's just a click closer to loosening.... BULLSHIT!" It's already locked when you tighten it, that's the damn purpose of a locking chuck from the get go!
I believe his last two videos are specifically because of that one.
same
But "critical thinking" is a rare commodity in today's world... good luck getting it delivered as well.
Yeap, same here. Said to my buddy, “Why would I want to start loosing the damn thing?!?”
What motivation would a "brand" have to put a feature into a product and hide it?
Creation of clickbait TH-cam titles of course.
Sell more drills. Hey my chuck won't hold bits anymore. I need a new one.
You see something like this all the time, really. They sell a product with x name and it's the exact same as their y name product but the y cost more. What gives? What difference is there? Marketing, and deactivated features or otherwise neutered product output. Corvette vs cadallic cts, same chassis, same engine, corvette always faster, ctsv is detuned. Cell phones, new flagship comes out but now there's three varieties, they all have the same dimension but supposedly different specs? Que? Same shit on the inside, just subjectively neutered for a price point. So in this case brands hide features/output capability in order to sell the same package in a different box for more money.
@@772tsweet77
If the drill doesn't hold a bit without you using some super secret 'feature' you're most likely not going to buy the same brand again.
Secondly this wouldn't be the same as designing something to fail just after warranty, if a drill doesn't hold onto bits while in warranty people are going to warranty it.
Hiding a feature rather than omitting it makes zero sense, if you cant omit the feature on even the most basic drill you sell you sell the feature as a brand-standard feature, you don't hide it on every single fucking product you sell in the hope that people are going to buy more drills from you somehow.
"I'll tell you in 75 years." -- Pfizer, probably
Keep looking at those patents - I've found a few that reference manual locking mechanisms that use a cam to positively lock the mechanism above and beyond the ratchet for hammer drill applications (Rohm and Jacobs have some variation). Though I have yet to find the exact incarnation described in the video making the rounds.
Interesting! When I was a machinist, we never put drills in a chuck in a CNC mill or lathe. It would be crazy to see a chuck with the kind of force those machines have.
I like that you destroy your tools so we don’t have to. Great work!
That collet set in 1/64ths, Letters, Numbers, and Metric sure does take up a lot of shelf space though. I guess you can only get away with a few sizes of a CNC drill because you can helix-mill or bore odd sizes from a pilot hole.
Eh... I've used 'em before. The runout is always garbage and they slip if you look at them funny but sometimes all you need is two odd sized holes per part in a five part run so you just load what you've got and run it with your hand on the feed hold. If it makes you feel any worse the shop I am thinking of where that happened the most was also mounting the chuck via a taper drill to CAT50 adapter.
In a lathe it is no big deal if it isn't in live tooling it isn't spinning, not used often but can be used just make sure it's tight because if it pushes back you will have problems with following tools.
@@MattOGormanSmith jj
Then how in the hell dou you drill?
Dammit! I knew it was bullshit but I still told everybody 🤣🤣🤣
That's you I totally didn't do that. Also do me a favor and tell people I didn't do that. Actually don't mention me at all.
I'm confused. I do this on my 12v bosch I use everyday and it 100% stops it coming undone
@@adriansmith8213 on my Bosch 18 volt as well, what gives
Well yeah, gotta make sure you're the only one who's really got the goods .
😂😂
I had a dude at work tell me this trick and I told him to pound sand. Meanwhile, his bits keep falling out because "the lock on his drill is fucked up" 🤣
idyits, they are. He'll make for a great supervisor, some day.
Cool story bro.
most likely makita crap.
you need to purchase knipex cobra pliers with the tool to properly tighten the fckn makita chuck.
@@casemodder89 Nah, some other off branded thing, looks derivative of Kobalt I think.
@@MoldyStir-FryFlex?
What I learned from this video: Keep tugging it until the tip falls off. I love this channel!
I got a DeWalt DCD796 and I can confirm that when I insert the bit and as I tighten the chuck I feel the initial locking motion, hear a clear "click", then FOLLOWED by several ratcheting sounds. So that backwards click movement you'd feel/hear is that indeed the first initial locking mechanism disengaging.
As someone who has gone through probably 20 Bosch drills in the last 8 years and has broken more Chucks than Shaquille O'Neal, this was a no wiper. I think the guy in the original video watched a few QD suppressor mount videos and thought drills were the same.
To be fair, the guy in the original video didn't say it was a real thing or not. He was posing the question to his audience because he called several of the major brands and a bunch of their techs confirmed it as a feature of the chuck. And a couple said either they weren't sure, or they hadn't heard of it.
@@NG-VQ37VHR he really should have called Jacobs or Rohm
Why still Borschjt, if they break all the time.
Tell me bud, did your bearing on your Bosch head start developing slop/play every time? I've got a genuine Bosch unit and honestly it works like a champ but the head's already been replaced and again it developed noticeable slop.
@@NG-VQ37VHR 'didn't say it was a real thing or not' Realize, this is quite possibly real, but not anything 'hidden', simply a consequence of an emergent function of the chuck.
Tighten the chuck tight. Any energy into the chuck hits that wall of 'tight' and can bounce back, loosening the chuck.
Tighten the chuck tight, then back off slightly. Any energy into the chuck moves the chuck forward, hammering it more tight, then can bounce back. The 'bounce back' energy then may not exceed the 'more tight' part of the energy.
There are other things where you do a similar 'back off of right at the edge, because if you don't a hammer effect can make it loosen up'. Energy reflecting backwards from something that can no longer move forward is a thing.
Put a ball bearing next to a huge piece of steel as a backing object. Hit the bearing with a hammer, and notice that not only does your hammer bounce back, the bearing comes away from the backing object as well.
There is a reason people are saying their bits loosen up if they leave the chuck 'tight', but don't if they back the moving part off. Don't take that lightly, they aren't all just making it up.
May those sacrificed in the making of this video get to go on and live forever in power tool Valhalla
VALHALLA!!!
Skøl!
Come down each day to drill through case hardened steel with diamond bits. Until they fail and are carried away by Rhinemaidens. To drink electrons and sing 'til midnight.
Once the magic smoke is let out,...there's no putting it back.
WITNESS!!!
I am so glad you made this video. As a man that has used battery drills since they first came out I had never heard of the one click back lock feature. I have never needed it either. I have only had one drill in my life that had bits drop out of it through usage. That was a Ridgid that I returned for service three times. When I got it back on the third time, they had sent me a new drill.
There's a lot of people who never properly used a tool in their whole life, who are self proclaimed tool experts just because they own a bunch. But the sad part is that there's enough "tools" behind home computers to buy their BS and even make them successful on the interwebs. However, for those of us who regularly wear tools out, the second hand market is pretty fantastic. Once I bought a second hand 22V Hilti drill. The guy sold it because it had some scratches. His garage looked like a tool shop showroom. I was about to ask him if I should take my shoes off when he opened the door.
As far as internet yes no's go. The only one that isn't always no, is, will it blend?
I have one, and the answer is YES.
Did you know? You can use old motor oil to fertilize your lawn. 😄
and prevent your front stairs from rotting!
@@arduinoversusevil2025 "I am Jack's carbon footprint"?
The answer is Gatorade. You water your lawn with Gatorade, because it has all the nutrients.
@@CSWeldFab Brawndo has electrolytes, Brawndo has what plants crave. 😆
You can fertilize it with DEF it’s just urea, works great and far cheaper then buying urea branded as fertilizer.
AvE: I'd like to return this clearly defective Makita.
HomeDespot: No. We watch your videos. Your warranty is voided before you walk out the door.
The large hole saw is actually reducing the shock experienced by the tightening sleeve so it doesn't easily undo even if fully unratcheted. I think if you try it again with just a simple drill bit the experiment will give the expected results.
6:40 you should consider getting a bump stock for that, it would save your finger from doing that
Oh no!!! an assault drill!
Bump stocks for drills are illegal in canada and AvE is a humble law abiding citizen that would never dare cross that line.
@@nolansprojects2840 Drill the third hole with your bump stock drill.
By the way, reseting the "click" mechanism after it has loosen by itself is done by opening the chuck jaws all the way, happens all the time at work!
wtf? I've never seen this happen. So is it just cross threading and need to be realigned by stopping at the back of the chuck?
Where do you work? Harbor Freight?
@@BrianRRenfro The DeWalts did it alot i used at work. Had to be careful though cuz they also liked to get stuck at full open if you just grabbed it by hand and put it in reverse and let er rip to open it up.
Ive done lots of repetative batt drilling and its the steel outer that has enough weight to undo itself, hence you had better results with the plastic makita chuck.
Someone tell these creators that, much like a drill chuck, their car isn't properly parked until their parking pawl falls on the previous tooth. Maybe we can keep them in their driveways long enough to stop any more of their "secrets" being revealed.
That only works, if it's in neutral. ;)
Couldn't ask for a better vijeo before bed! When I saw the title of the initial vijeo, my BS allergy started to kick in. But... Yet again uncle AvE summoned the blue smoke monster to show us all... Don't believe everything you see online
What needs to be done is a Project Farm style test where you see the force needed to pull a bit out. Apply X number of clicks and then pull with a force gauge to see how much.
Motion seconded...
And thirded!
Easily done with his hydraulics gear@
Couldn't you just tighten it till it stops and call it good? What's the point of not tightening it all the way
@@matthewklein9225 yea I don't get it either, sounds like complete clickbait BS
That drill experienced death by inrush current.
indeed, moral of the story - buy brushless!
@@stanimir4197 dont buy mukeeta at all.
Ahh Hilti, the job I worked at had 5 of them die in a year in our shop, two died completely while three at first stopped having the autobrake when letting go, then couldn't change direction. The battery also lasted just for a few holes with 10mm drill, mind you they were on a "intelligent" charger when being cycled and all under Hilti's regular checks. Oh also two got their chucks destroyed also in matter of months. They weren't abused, drilling mostly plastics and aluminium. I don't know if it's the same with other brands, I'd love to hear.
I tried a couple hilti cordless drills. their chucks are garbage, drills complete with battery too heavy and way overpriced. I have to say their service is great. Had a 3 month old drill got a little wet from the rain(aka completely submerged in the wheelbarrow) 2 days after i dropped the machine off at the hilti store i got a call; my machine was repaired, complete new exept the housing(because of the serial no.) and free of charge.
Now i have almost everything Makita, 1/3 of the price compared to Hilti and cant really complain about makitas preformance, still use hilti for epoxy anchor grout
I am sorry to hear the hilti's are such junk. Disappointing cause I've always had my eye on them being the premium industrial name brand
While I think makita makes better tools, i have to say my dewalt drills I literally kick around on the job site when they're in my way. I don't forsee having issues with them I've been drilling half inch holes in steel with them, augering 4" post holes in rocky soil with my dcd485, mixing 5 gal buckets of drywall mud, paint and thinset on 3rd and 2nd gear, and they are such a blast to use. The first time i had to mix mortar with my bosses new makita 1/2 inch drill and I smoked it and he took it back. not saying anything cause I do believe makita makes a better quality more smoothe tool with often better features but I've been having good luck with dewalts drills
@@user-bu2mn8do6v yeah chuks get stuck that you can't remove the drillbit, yet slip constantly
I acquired a Hilti drill from a job and I'm starting to think it was more their idea then mine...
I use Makita cordless tools installing stair railings and banisters. I buy the cheapest LXT drill drivers and impacts as I'm only drilling 1" or smaller holes in wood, but a lot of them for balusters. I've never had an impact die, but the drills last about two years with daily use. Every one I've owned eventually starts slipping gears.
I hopped you would take care of this and you do not disappoint!
I watched the other video yesterday and thought it sounded like the the direction change of a socket wrench.
I've never done the secret hack and never really had a problem. I'll just stick with what works
Interesting. Milwaukee has always stated the back turn. We can’t assume they use the Rohm licensed design but I’d be curious to find out.
It’s not in their product manuals though. So how have they mentioned it?
I also thought it was BS, but I have tried it and it really tightens up the Chuck. Setup:
I have a paint mixer that I use to mix concrete powder with water (I know... It is Bad for the bearings and there are better Tools for it...).
Without clicking the Chuck back, the paint mixer often gets loose after a few minutes. With the back click, it has been Holding for over a week of continued use (several 8Ah batteries).
So at least with a 18V Bosch Drill, it works.
I don't remember where I first saw this, year or two ago maybe. And I thought it was from an official manufacturer source. Maybe it was on the Skookum subreddit? Wish I could remember because it wasn't just some random Joe. Useless without a good source, I know :( . In any case, I never even bothered to test it because my logic was "It's slower to do and I've never had an issue with the chuck letting go, so why would I care if this is some enhanced grip mode?"
Makita Australia, some slimy salesguy with a 15 second clip.
th-cam.com/video/IdLFDkZGi44/w-d-xo.html
@@arduinoversusevil2025 Hmm, no specific memory of this, don't remember the watery audio, but yeah, that's about how long it was. Timing is roughly right, it was a while ago.
To think, there used to be hundreds of these little statements that, before the internet, no one could ever verify. It's rare to see something be passably believable but still BS in thr modern day
manu-fracturer
I've broken enough of these chucks and inspected the parts to know that such a feature doesn't exist. Loosening it only loosens it. But I've got an open mind, anyone who thinks otherwise is welcome to show me the mechanism by which this happens.
Well hey even your name is chuck but youre wrong. I have Milwaukee drills with the feature. Let me look through the manual and quote it for you old timers
@@jorgeo1492 it's not in the Milwaukee manuals
@@jorgeo1492 you're full of brown sludge if you think its a legit feature.
HE STILL LOOKING!
@@chadthomasriggs he looked and realized he was wrong
Thanks for the definitive clarification. I have noticed slight differences between different drills Chuck mechanisms and after seeing the video immediately went and checked the next drill I used. I have the Metabo which didn't but when I first got it I noticed it acted a little different from most of the keyless Chuck drills I've used. So the next day I tried to DeWalt at work and sure enough it did disengage. So I'll just say I confused it seems to be a common design element that got passed through pretty much everybody's designs.
That trigger action followed by smoke... Take note, them twiddlers didn't get tired and she was smokin when he was done
6:38 That right there kids is a motion every man gets to perfect before his mid 40`s.
I bet a new tool is super excited when it arrives at the empire of dirt for its first day. Right up until the other tools tell him that you are the kid from toy story.
I've just always tightened chucks (keyed and keyless) until I couldn't tighten them anymore, within reason. Stuff doesn't slip, loosen, or fall out.
Conclusion: Tighter = stronger hold.
Nothing like an engineers perspective and TRUTH, Linda makes the others go instantly flaccid... 🥀
How did you acquire such a talent for destroying drills.
Through many years of virtuous living?
@@Urbicide It's a Canadian thing.
I learned it from assembling switchboards.
Those frames were something else back in the day.
I reverse back and forth with wire wheels as the wires will sharpen one way or another. Since trying this locking feature I don't swear as much trying to find where the wire wheel went.
…and that’s why I automatically take those off and put a keyed Jacobs chuck on. Bonus feature,you put a 1/2 chuck on what used to be a puny 3/8 cordless drill.
I use a couple of keyless chucks daily. I'm glad I have not watched that dumbular video that's makin' the rounds. I'm glad I waited for youze to sets us straight. Thanks from Jet City Turbines!
Come visit if you're ever up FSJ way.
The back it off is only for wheel bearings where you tighten to a certain spec, then back it off and hand tighten it and put a cotter pin through it.
Tighten to a certain spec? Tighten till binding then back off 1/4-1/2 turn put in split pin
So happy you made this video. I saw those other videos amd decided to try for myself. After trying the "back click" my hole saw loosed multiple times. Something I've never had happen doing it the normal way.
It all makes sense now... All the vent holes on the Makita are not just cooling vents but also electric smoke energy release vents...
Great Video, AvE. I wonder how many Waterheads are going to return there drills because the secret chuck lock is not working and the bits keep falling out. I always thought if the chuck slips, grab the Channel lock 440’s and tighten it down some more. The other option would be to grind flats on bit to break the bit instead of spinning, drill bits that is. Thanks for spreading truth.
My first thought was that it was complete bullshit, especially knowing how a ratcheting chuck works internally…. However, I have to play devils advocate, and question why several of the tech support lines appear to confirm it is the “proper” way to use the chuck? Perhaps the original thinking was to prevent the chuck from being over tightened? Or becoming jammed?
I've experienced varying levels of inconsistencies with drill chucks I think it has a lot to do with quality control when they're built to I've had exact same brand same type Chuck one work great one always loosen up since new
Buy drill with quality Jacob chuck and this will not happen
had one 18 Volt Dewalt that would not stay tight, unless tightened with Channel Loks, very annoying...only one I have run across that did not stay tight
Did you try the one click back trick with the bad chuck? I'm sure it will work with that one. The manufacture just didn't tell you about it because it's a SECRET!
I've found that chucks will get dust in them (think jacobs chucks on hammer drills), at which point you can tighten them all you want, but all the torque you're putting into the collar is being borne by friction in the mechanism instead of force against the drill shank. Dirty chucks won't get as tight as they should and they won't stay tight. A lot of keyless chucks like those found on cordless tools are really never meant to be disassembled, so cleaning them is pretty much out of the question.
It's a fair point to make that Jacobs-style chucks have no place on a hammer drill, but that ship has already sailed. Still, drilling masonry isn't the only way to get abrasive dust into the chuck.
That kind of trigger action is usually only used to make the missus happy..
Outside of the main topic, 'cos why not. I love that you keep the volume down when violating the equipment in this or other way. Senks for not abusing my eardrums via headphones.
Grip chuck tightly.
Turn drill on rotating the way to tighten it.
Hold tightly.
When it slips from your grip... It's gudentight.
That actually doesn't work with newer chucks , my dewalt will get a LOT tighter by hand .
@@onthelake9554 thank you for the heads up about newer gear
The quarter inch reverse click works. I drill utility poles with my Dewalt DCD998 drill all day. If I fail to reverse lock the chuck my 3/4"*18" bit will fall out after about 3 poles. Once locked it stays in until I remove it.
You've seen the internal design. What mechanism is "locking"?
@@jimmeyers8960 I know for a fact it works but never disassembled to investigate it. IMO I believe you are simply disengaging the forward ratcheting mechanism and that prevents high torque and vibration from loosening the chuck.
I simply know for a fact it works on my drill.
That little trick is how I loosen the bit. My locking chucks use a slip ring that pulls back. The only unknown feature is that the handle is also a hammer. Not really, but its robust enough to drive in a plastic insert. I want my electric drill/screwdriver to have a handle that is made for light hammering.
I know it's not engineered to work but there's so much anecdotal evidence of it working there has to be something
like let's say a tooth is engaged 70% and a motion applies that presses it down to dead flat. the momentum of that force can be enough to chain react and loosen enough for a bit to fall out
Thank you. I did see the video and thought, “Hey, that’s cool.” I tried it on one of my DeWalt drills. The bit still falls out if I don’t tighten the chuck enough. I’ve been calling BS on this. Intuitively it just didn’t sound right. Chuck likes it tight.
If it were true, the user manual would say so....
Tighten till you hear a crack and then back a quarter turn. That's how you tighten anything plastic. Trust me.
I could smell that cloud of death even through Covid-nose.
Ive had a keyless drill head for a long time, and i never knew about this paul guy who keeps my bits inside
That does present an interesting improvement to be made to the patented design. You could make it so that backing off the chuck could tighten down and effectively push the pivot point of the pawl forward half a click before it disengages. That outer ring looks to have plenty of space for lengthening the notch in it and give it a second detent that releases the pawl. You'd basically get some free mechanical advantage right at the last ratchet but it's not like you really need it.
All i thought was, but why?
"but it's not like you really need it"
Looks like you got there in the end. :P
You sound like someone who doesn't hand drill holes in iron castings very often
No, you'd just be introducing a failure point that would cause the chuck to fail with something in it. The problem with that is the bolt you have to remove to disassemble the chuck is at the bottom of the chuck, meaning a chuck that failed this way would ruin the entire drill. Oh, yes, you can remove and replace a chuck cheaply and easily, by the way, it's designed to prevent you from haveing to replace the entire drill when the chuck nut goes bad. In fact, you can rebuild and repair any part of the drill.
I did this on my Dewalt dcd791 after watching a video recently, and it locks the chuck like the devil's grip. It's impossible to open up the chuck without pliers - and my forearms are big.
I don't count clicks, just tighten really hard down on the bit, then turn the chuck in reverse a smidge until I feel it let's go.
I actually followed the video you point to, and it worked for me. I haven't tested it on any other drill yet.
I find the quarter turn back trick works but only on certain keyless chucks.
Also, when the chuck jambs like that, Smack the jaws against something hard (like an apprentice) to loosen it.
Regardless of it being a home gamer model, the drill isn’t made to bring that mass up to speed with no run time to cool
Honestly if you actually used warranties I wouldn't be at all surprised if they came with a specific clause "Warranty void when used by AvE"
Ever consider a job in stress testing equipment?
Does a wife count as "equipment"?
@@ferrumignis Wife is the stress. I am the equipment. ;)
I've always preferred keyed chucks anyway (although I have 2 makita 331s and the 453 shown here with keyless chucks) there is just something about the key I trust more knowing it's tightened down because I did it.
Keyed chucks is the only ones that works... These tight by hand ones leads to damaged wrist from trying to tighten them more and more when your drill just rotates inside the chuck because it is impossible to tighten it enough.
I prefer keyed chucks too.
But, if I'm honest, I won't give up the convenience of a keyless chuck for everyday nonsense.
@@autumn5592 I think this is more or less where I am on it, unless I'm doing some serious drilling it's not a problem
I just tighten my keyed chuck drill by hand, giving it a nice twist. It's usually good enough and if it slips _then_ i go and get the key.
Absolutely true on the titles that ask a question. Same with google questions….except they don’t give anything but a sales pitch.
My hand has a feature for crimping wires where it clicks once I have squeezed the crimper tight enough.
I was skeptical about this 'trick'and was eager to prove it (hopefully true). So I tried it.
Lost a Unibit into a bench tank full of oil by trying it.
Would the Unibit have fallen out if I didn't try it? Dunno.
What I *DO* know is it didn't prevent it.
Nice action on the trigger there 😁 I wonder where you learnt that 😝
THANK YOU!
I saw the original video and thought it just didn't add up, not the video it self but the claim itself. 16 hours later here you are doing the proper testing.
Good on you!
OMG. You whacked that blue thing till it needed a cigarette!
I posted a link to this video to the comments of that bullshit secrets video.
yes, I can be an asshole sometimes...
Big ups
I really like your video. When I first heard of the secret click, it sounded like a lot of BS. I think that you may be missing the point for the lock pawl. The inertial mass of the large hole saw is supported and moved by the chuck jaws, and should not be able to loosen the chuck (as was evident in your test). The lock pawl is to stop the inertial mass of the chuck itself from loosening the jaws when suddenly stopped, suddenly reversed (or possibly while using the hammer function).
"Theft Deterrent Teal" was my favorite line from this
Betteridge's law of headlines is an adage that states: "Any headline that ends in a question mark can be answered by the word no."
I found a similar hidden feature on my car that allows my to get DOUBLE my usual gas mileage! As I'm driving down the road at high speed, I simply change the gear selector from "D" to "R" and just like that, my MPG doubles!
Mechanics HATE this simple gas saving trick! You'll only need one last fill of the tank for the rest of the vehicle's life!
I actually got a lot of mpg’s back in the day by putting it in neutral and shutting the engine, on long downhills. Ah the simple VW bug days.
@@Kineth1 Yeah they just prevent the actual shift from happening.
@@robert_g_fbg I did that with my 4 cylinder Chevy Monza in the 1980's and was told by my friend that it was illegal, I called the police and that officer claimed it was a unsafe practice to do that, illegal I don't recall if he said so??? Common sense to disengage the clutch going down hills, YES. Very very steep hills maybe NO..
@@robert_g_fbg In New Zealand we used to call that Maori overdrive. Not anymore obviously, ahem.
That test requires ample forearm strength. You were made for this.
Love your straightforwardness
I also heard you should not tighten cutoff wheels on angle grinders all the way. You wanna tighten it and then back half a turn. If it's too tight the vibration will cause it to break but if you loosen it a half turn it gives it some elasticity.
lol. Don't do this. I just made this BS up. but maybe I should make a video out of it and make a quick buck while endangering people.
your not entirely wrong though, every 250lb welding gorilla who has seen that 14th hour will tell ya "it's a tool not a day at the gym, don't tighten the disk down so hard you crush it." actually did this myself tired wasn't thinking so i just right cranked it down spun that disk up got about half way through the pipe before it popped off the hub and ran across the shop scaring the shit out of everyone.
Rule o thumb is don't use the bar tool to tighten cut off disks. that tool is for grinding disks and removing disks. The inertia will tighten them down for you just use your hand on the disk and hold the stop button in and for god sake make sure it's unplugged well you do.
Works great on the quick connect sanding discs. Makes changing them out easy since they’ll auto eject whenever you stop it.
Big drill is hiding this one feature from you! Watched my monetized video to find out!
But first, make sure to like and subscribe. And thank you for my fine sponsor, ManscapeVPN.
Cut all the BS . Be honest . Just tell me where to send you the money . 😂😂😂
Betteridge's Law of Headlines. "Any headline that ends in a question mark can be answered by the word no."
Not sure how these new makita chucks are but older brushless hammer drills they made used Rohm chucks, quite reliable and have a strong hold.
You shoulda seen the company drill after trying to mount self-drilling screws into 3/4" steel columns to mount EMT lol
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@@CastIronPrimate The gave us these 1-1/2 inch once with like a 1/2 self drilling portion. Drained a battery in 4 holes lol
I'd been doing it wrong for years. Until the day I was hiding from "El Jeffe" in the outhouse, reading the manual for my new cordless drill. I had been tightening the chuck like I was squeezing the last drop out of my prick, and STILL spinning 1/2" bits whilst wallowing out the holes for 5/8" hardware. I wish I could find it again, but I'd swear I read it myself... "Tighten, then turn back to disengage something-something to prevent the hand-job-o-magic chuck® from loosening during vigorous use"... Did it work for me? Yes. YMMV
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I had the same experience. I definitely read that in one of the DeWalt manuals while taking a shit at the shop. It was probably 10 years ago but I know without a doubt that I've read it in a DeWalt manual before!!!!
“Anti-theft Teal”.
(By golly the most underrated line of the video.)
As a person who happened to find a makita in an RTU upon arrival.
I will use this term from here on out.
Thanks
Betteridge's law of headlines. If a headline poses a binary yes
o question, the answer is always no.
They/we've been arguing this shit for days, you da man!
Won't matter, that guy will argue this to his grave. You know who; there's one at every job.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 absolutely!
I'm not sure what the mechanics behind it are, but I DO in fact use this trick on my Metabo Futuro Plus S1M chuck that I installed on my dewalt DCD791. It pretty much never looses a bit with this trick. I've been doing it soo long that it's just normal for me. When I get back to work I'll try it the 'standard way' with no back click, I'm sure we'll get another metal panel job that needs like 200 holes drilled. I'll try it both ways and let you know how it goes...
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Talking about chuck loosening on sudden stops, during my apprenticeship there was that one drill press that had an automatic brake... every single time you drilled something and turned that damn thing off, the chuck would loosen and the drill would fall out, no matter how hard you tightened the chuck... It also had a reverse, unusable with the chuck, sine the acceletation from a DOL switched motor would loosen the chuck on startup in reverse
You are doing great work for the community. Thank you.
Has anyone ever found a smaller drill for using those big tooth monsters like in the video? I've burnt up several doing this trying to cut big holes in tanks. I found the secret is using it on low speed, turning reverse direction, and allowing friction to cut the hole slowly, but was wondering if there was a better drill to use that won't create the smoke-screen.
I always get my big amp corded for that, those things will kill just about any cordless, and some corded.
Try just drilling a small pilot hole first.
No small drill motor can handle the torque or the heat generated by trying turn a hole saw that large. Think big motor = more better heat dissipation and longevity. Metal housing drills will transfer the heat and handle the torque better than plastic. Look for an OLD Milwaukee corded drill (hole shooter, hole hawg or hammer drill) with an actual keyed 1/2 or 3/4 inch Jacobs chuck (bigger chuck = designed for bigger holes and more abuse). You can find them on ebay, estate or yard sales. They were designed and built for that. You can purchase them cheap because nobody wants a corded drill any more. Bonus if you can get the metal box to store it in. Watch your wrists when using though - there IS a learning curve - they bite! You can also try an abrasive diamond or carbide hole saw bit for metal but you will still have to deal with the torque and heat generated. Or buy a new small drill motor every day and exchange it when it dies 🔥. Plumbers that do new house rough in work drill lots of holes like that daily (in wood) - look at what they are using. Hope this helps.
Chocco has it correct. You need a Hole Hawg type of drill when bits get over the 1/2" size. We use to go through 1 or 2 hammer drills a year before we found out they're only good for drilling through mortar, Makita tended to last the longest. Stepped up to SDS and haven't bought a new one for a decade or so. If you're cutting that many holes in tanks, would a plasma cutter with circle jig be beneficial to you?
wrong tool for the job...
Do you smoke the drills, when cutting in the proper direction?