Its very hard to get something like this down to the numbers shown here. A part from the mentioned elephants foot you also have other printing problems and that the plastic is soft and hard to measure correctly. But yes, its a good tip to improve it a little bit. (With a size as K2:s, it might be interesting to do the print tests in all four corners of the build plate to see if it gives the same result)
If would be hard to find a cheap set of calipers that can measure almost a 500mm diagonal. But yes, that would be a great test. A 12 inch or 300mm set are somewhat cheap. I could make the test a 200mm square with a 282mm diagonal.
@@theincompetentcraftsman I meant that you can print the current setup but in four copies in the four different corners. I'm not totally sure the result will be the same for all four rectangles.
Two questions, if I may. First, why do you reset the skew correction to start with and then reset it when the current print is done? Wouldn’t just leaving the set correction at the start work? Or would the skew correction be cumulative? And second, the factory installation for Klipper only has the Fluidd interface. Do you know if the Mainsail interface can be added. When I install Klipper on my K1 Max, I always install both interfaces. I like Mainsail better. And a similar question, do you know how to set the camera in Fluidd? All my attempts have failed and I have ended up with a bunch of cameras that don’t work, and I have been unable to delete them. Thanks so very much.
Hey brother Does your k1 get good first layers at high temps like 105/260 60chamber ? Mine gets terrible first layers with ASA at those temps Would you be willing to test ? So far everyone is just printing PLA and saying how amazing it is even to buying an enclosed printer with a chamber heater for PLA is stupidity at the highest……
Thanks for the video. Noob question here: To disable skew correction like you mentioned at the end would i just comment (#) out the gcode macros in all the appropriate places within printer.cfg or delete files& gcode completely? Got 2 broken feet abd want to do this with a before and after reinstalling new feet once they arrive
Correct. Or just wait till after you get your feet to implement the skew correction. Maybe print a piece with the broken feet, one with the new feet, then add skew correction.
This is a great suggestion. I'll try this on my other printer too. Have you tried to implement adaptive mesh? It appears thst they have some hard coded requirement of a 9x9 mesh, which causes a "index out of range" critical error if you use less. After which a power cycle is needed, otherwise the print head crashes on y homing!
Adaptive mesh might be a bad idea because of the big plate. My build plate have a variation of between 0.6 and 0.8 mm, imagine what happens if it tries to move the head outside of the adaptive mesh (for example to change color on first layer) when printing at 0.2mm layer height. It would need to be given a z-hop of at least a mm outside of the adaptive mesh, not sure if it does that.
Good points about needing z hop between color swaps. I'll look closer on my next color print to see if it z hops much, before moving to cut the filament. I tried printing the calibration and measured 100.04, ~142.2 and ~142.5 without making changes. Not reprinted yet though...
Great work. Right now I copied your configuration files and loaded them into my K2 plus... we'll see
Awesome! If you copied my printer.cfg file, make sure you run the auto leveling, bed pid, and hotend pid (in that order) before you print anything.
Its very hard to get something like this down to the numbers shown here. A part from the mentioned elephants foot you also have other printing problems and that the plastic is soft and hard to measure correctly. But yes, its a good tip to improve it a little bit. (With a size as K2:s, it might be interesting to do the print tests in all four corners of the build plate to see if it gives the same result)
If would be hard to find a cheap set of calipers that can measure almost a 500mm diagonal. But yes, that would be a great test. A 12 inch or 300mm set are somewhat cheap. I could make the test a 200mm square with a 282mm diagonal.
@@theincompetentcraftsman I meant that you can print the current setup but in four copies in the four different corners. I'm not totally sure the result will be the same for all four rectangles.
Two questions, if I may. First, why do you reset the skew correction to start with and then reset it when the current print is done? Wouldn’t just leaving the set correction at the start work? Or would the skew correction be cumulative?
And second, the factory installation for Klipper only has the Fluidd interface. Do you know if the Mainsail interface can be added. When I install Klipper on my K1 Max, I always install both interfaces. I like Mainsail better. And a similar question, do you know how to set the camera in Fluidd? All my attempts have failed and I have ended up with a bunch of cameras that don’t work, and I have been unable to delete them. Thanks so very much.
Hey brother
Does your k1 get good first layers at high temps like 105/260 60chamber ?
Mine gets terrible first layers with ASA at those temps
Would you be willing to test ? So far everyone is just printing PLA and saying how amazing it is even to buying an enclosed printer with a chamber heater for PLA is stupidity at the highest……
I haven't printed asa yet. If I run into any issues when I do print asa, I'll post my results/problems.
In addition, Creality recommends printing PLA with the top off of the K1 series printers anyway.
Thanks for the video. Noob question here: To disable skew correction like you mentioned at the end would i just comment (#) out the gcode macros in all the appropriate places within printer.cfg or delete files& gcode completely? Got 2 broken feet abd want to do this with a before and after reinstalling new feet once they arrive
Correct. Or just wait till after you get your feet to implement the skew correction. Maybe print a piece with the broken feet, one with the new feet, then add skew correction.
This is a great suggestion. I'll try this on my other printer too. Have you tried to implement adaptive mesh? It appears thst they have some hard coded requirement of a 9x9 mesh, which causes a "index out of range" critical error if you use less. After which a power cycle is needed, otherwise the print head crashes on y homing!
Adaptive mesh might be a bad idea because of the big plate. My build plate have a variation of between 0.6 and 0.8 mm, imagine what happens if it tries to move the head outside of the adaptive mesh (for example to change color on first layer) when printing at 0.2mm layer height. It would need to be given a z-hop of at least a mm outside of the adaptive mesh, not sure if it does that.
It could be implemented, like @drosendahl said, other parts of the firmware/configuration files would also need to be changed.
Good points about needing z hop between color swaps. I'll look closer on my next color print to see if it z hops much, before moving to cut the filament. I tried printing the calibration and measured 100.04, ~142.2 and ~142.5 without making changes. Not reprinted yet though...
I'm new to this. K2 has been ordered. Did you flash the firmware with kilipper?
Klipper comes standard
thanks cool
It helped a bunch on my K1 printers