I bought a NEJE MAX 4 20w after watching your video， and I expanded it to 750x1030 mm. I love my MAX 4, especially the work area and the E80's cutting like a beast lol. It's very helpful for my business.If I had to do it all over again, I would still go with the NEJE. Thank you for your time and input！
This is a true demonstration of the automatic control of the Z-axis, where automatic lZ control can help achieve flexible control of work at different heights. This is really a great video. Looking forward to your next video.
Love this..recently i Own a neje max 4 to with E 80 module…it is not so powerfull as in this video , maybe a wrong setting like s max value in Lightburn ?
Hello, I have a question regarding the cutting test at minute 6. In the holes you can clearly see an offset of the beginning and end of the cutting. I have that too. What is this or what can be done about it?
Hi, @martinhelm4991; thank you for your comment. Yes, the spot is called pierce spot and corresponds to the position where the laser pucks through the material. It can me minimized by setting the cutting layers to Dynamic power disabling the option "Constant Power Mode". Another way is to use the Lead-in and Lead-out, this is what is normally adopted in industrial applications, basically the laser or plasma puck through in a spot outside the part, than gets in the the cutting path with a short segment. LightBurn offers this option in the settings under advance for layers set to Line, you need to play with it and preview your project before cutting. I hope it helps, Ciao
Hi nice that someone can make it work in 3D, can u share the machine settings pls, my engravings with neje Max 4 extended looks distorted I thinks is something to do with the machine x or y acceleration, pls 🙏
Hi, @jdmej1510; thank you for your comment. That is exactly what I discuss in the Cons section toward the end of the video. The main board should either be in a fixed part of the frame or the connection so they are not dragged around with the movement. Ciao
ciao! grazie per il video, molto utile e accurato..come tutti i tuoi video! avevo una curiosità su questo neje..mi sapresti dire che distanza c'è tra il piano di lavoro (dove appoggia la macchina, escluso l'honeycomb) alla fine del motore dell'asse z? in pratica vorrei sapere l'ingombro massimo in altezza del laser. ti ringrazio Giacomo
Ciao Giacomo, grazie per il commento. L'altezza che mi chiedi é 200mm Fai conto che hai anche il modulo laser che nella posizione piú alta inclusi i cavi raggiunge i 230mm, se invece vui abbassare il modulo cosi da non superare il motore nella posizione piú alta, allora sotto ti rimangono 60mm tra l'ugello ed il piano d'appoggio che sono generalmente sufficienti per lavorare. Spero sia utile. Ciao Giuseppe
@@MiddleRoomWorkshop grazie mille per la risposta! mi serviva l'altezza perche ho in mente di prendere anche io questa macchina e volevo essere sicuro che entrasse nell'enclosure che ho! sei stato gentilissinìmo, al prossimo video! Giacomo
Ggreat video. I have just bought one of these. I am trying to do some material tests from with Lightburn. But I am getting confused about what to do with the z height. When doing a job I would set the material thickness. But I cannot do this from within the material tester. When I run it, the text prints with the laser much higher than when it runs the cut boxes Hiw do I set this up please?
Hi Thank you for your comment. I can suggest whatching my dedicated video here th-cam.com/video/-Rq0_eCy2k8/w-d-xo.html I go over the process in details. Setting the z-axis can be a bit overwhelming, but once done if you do not move the machine or change the cutting bed, all is good. Let me know how it goes. Ciao
Hi, thank you for your comment. Yes, I have a video showing the exact workflow I used to create the very same engraving you saw in this video review. th-cam.com/video/G6zYpj6Fbac/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KSFaE9bZ_nao86y1 Ciao
Very curious about how the uneven engraving works. It mentioned surface modeling on the store page. Does this mean I can import any optimized, 3d scanned object in and have it engrave the uneven surface?
Hi, thank you for your comment. Unfortunately, it is not as straightforward as it looks like. Lightburn does not work in 3D; it can only launch a gcode with a 3D path. If you scan the surface, you then need to import the file into CAM software to produce the tool path you need. In my case, I went for Fusion 360 and used a CNC tooling strategy. Here I show how I went about it th-cam.com/video/G6zYpj6Fbac/w-d-xo.html I hope it helps, Ciao
@MiddleRoomWorkshop thank you so much! I do not have experience with fusion.. time to learn! Your channel as been a great resource for comparing machines and deciding which one to get. I really appreciate the details you put into your videos.
Hi, thank you for your comment. If we compare the lasers, the E40 is better, the spot is smaller, and the cut is cleaner. If we compare the machines leaving the z axis, the machines are comarable in terms of size and performance. I hope it helps Ciao
@@MiddleRoomWorkshop thanks, Budget wisen max3+e40 and max4+a40640 are similar. (And other options like ikier 12w and Falcon 2 22w). I'm trying to figure out if I want/need z axis. I'll probably be cutting up to 10mm wood and doing some engraved for the kids ;) (Have a master 2 with a 3500mw (input) laser)
Hi, thank you for your feedback. I am currently working with the Falcon 2 22W and I am very satisfied with it. The z-axis is nice, but is another thing to set and maintain, and honestly, the traditional manual focus with a clearance plate is quicker. Unless you do not want to do fancy things or switch focus between layers, and you do not mind the traditional quick manual focus, then you do not need it. I still have the NEJE 4, but I use it for larger engravings. If I should buy it I would go for the Falcon 2 22W as it comes from a reliable and well-established brand, is smart, is powerful, it comes ready to go no assembly needed and you get the air pump with air control. In contrast, the NEJE 4 Max, which is also a nice and reliable machine, does not come ready as you need your own air source, and you also need the electro valve to automatically operate the air. Requires assembly, and the Z axis must be set properly to work. Furthermore is a machine that has a moving mainboard, which is o weak point prone to break over time. Furthermore, a 20W machine is an optimal power for all purposes, especially if you intend to cut 10mm, from time to time. See below the video review of the Falcon 2 22W, the Z-axis operation with the NEJE 4 Max, and a comparison with other 20W machines. th-cam.com/video/spOIRyTYXlw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/-Rq0_eCy2k8/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/1AAsPDCYPBs/w-d-xo.html Furthermore, below are some discount links for the NEJE 4 Max with the E40 Module, the E80 Module and finally the Falcon 2 22W. affiliate.geekbuying.com/gkbaffiliate.php?id=3783&url=1059685 affiliate.geekbuying.com/gkbaffiliate.php?id=3783&url=1059686 affiliate.geekbuying.com/gkbaffiliate.php?id=3783&url=960823 I hope it helps. Ciao
Hi, thank you for your comment. I haven't tried it, but I cut gold mirror plastic and it works flawlessly. As long as the material is not transparent you should have no problems. I hope it helps. Ciao
Nice Demo of the Z-axis, a lot better as the demo from NEJE. I modified exactly the same things as you, but als i bought all the advised things (regretably now). The honycomb comes from the Max3 and does not fit at all, it always skewed, it ist not possible to fit it right. Solution is to put a peace of wood of 5 mm thick uinder the honeycomb so the honeycomb is 5 mm from your surface, enough to not burn in your talbe. So front side on the laser and the bacjk on wood. on top i put some packaging material so the Honycomb cannot slide. BTW All my hex nuts where lose also the ones on the Z-axis, very bad enginereing. Question did you use the door swicht? Because if i use mine i have to reset the whole machine to go further. I find it uselesss. Also i ditched the belt tensioners, completly useless.
Hi, @bartv6387; thank you for your comment and compliment :). I haven't ever owned that honeycomb, but it is terrible if it does not fit. Products should always be back-compatibles in my opinion. I saw they are selling these profiles that directly connect to the base, but only in the extended version which is pity. Put a layer of kitchen aluminium foil possibly wrinkled under your honeycomb to avoid burning your table. The laser can't cut or damage aluminium and if it is wrinkled, the reflection does not directly hit back the laser module and its optics. I haven't found loose fasteners in my machine, I did a random check, and they were okay. Also, I haven't tried the door switch yet; if I remember correctly in the 3 Pro once the button was released you simply had to go home and were ready to go, but I will let you know how it performs on my machine in the next couple of days. The belt tensioners are a nice addon and come really handy when you deal with larger and longer belts, but the belts are to be set and forgotten, so it may be unnecessary for such a machine. Ciao
ciao, questo laser dice di avere un Focus Size: 0.06×0.06mm potresti fare vedere se è davvero cosi? anche perchè io ne ho uno e proiettando il laser su una parete si vede chiaramente che è rettangolare il focus size... te ne sarei grato, saluti
Ciao @woodenwork480, grazie per il tuo commento. Non ho verificato l'esatta dimensione del fuoco ma posso mettere il video in lista per il futuro. Nel frattempo posso dirti che la dimensione é molto piccola rispetto ad altri laser da 20W e 10W, ad ogni modo la forma non potrá mai essere quadrata. Quindi sebbene i produttori publicizzano questi laser con fuco di forma quadra no lo sono, e molto difficile otticamente collimare un fascio luminoso che di fonte é rettangolare e di conseguensa puo solo avvicinarsi ad un quadrato ma non esserlo. Spero ti sia utile. Ciao
It looks like you are using fusion 360 to get a 3D toolpath. I’ve been trying to figure this out without having to run the gcode through some kind of python workflow. Are you going to address this workflow at some point? I’m very interested in this and am not sure why the laser engraving world is so stuck in 2D.
Hi, @shemj1215; thank you for your comment. Yes, that was Fusion 360, and I had to post-process the toolpath to be usable; however, I manually edited a couple of lines necessary to let this work directly in the G-code file. Soon I am going to show exactly how I went about the engraving shown in the video. I believe that 3D engraving is great, especially now that we can quickly scan any surface that can be imported into our CAM software. Ciao
Hi, @quentinwiley_ ; thank you for your feedback. I usually help my viewers at no charge in the comment section. Feel free to ask or explain your issue, and I will try to troubleshoot and help you to the best of my possibility. If you need something more specific, then you can write me at info@whathowwhysolution.com Ciao
I bought a NEJE MAX 4 20w after watching your video， and I expanded it to 750x1030 mm. I love my MAX 4, especially the work area and the E80's cutting like a beast lol. It's very helpful for my business.If I had to do it all over again, I would still go with the NEJE. Thank you for your time and input！
can you tell me what comes with the extention kit? Is it just the two metal rods?
@@ziuber18 I got 1150mm black V-track profile x 2，3m timing belt x 1，M6x12 screw x 8
@@DeloresVasquezc thanks
This is a true demonstration of the automatic control of the Z-axis, where automatic lZ control can help achieve flexible control of work at different heights. This is really a great video. Looking forward to your next video.
Love this..recently i Own a neje max 4 to with E 80 module…it is not so powerfull as in this video , maybe a wrong setting like s max value in Lightburn
?
Its good for make design vinyl record?
How about its performance when it comes to cutting the stainless steel sheet?
What about upgrading the neje 3max to the E80 module? Does it worth or better go to 4max?
What program name are you using for z-axis to burn on curved surfaces ?
Hello, I have a question regarding the cutting test at minute 6. In the holes you can clearly see an offset of the beginning and end of the cutting. I have that too. What is this or what can be done about it?
Hi, @martinhelm4991; thank you for your comment.
Yes, the spot is called pierce spot and corresponds to the position where the laser pucks through the material.
It can me minimized by setting the cutting layers to Dynamic power disabling the option "Constant Power Mode".
Another way is to use the Lead-in and Lead-out, this is what is normally adopted in industrial applications, basically the laser or plasma puck through in a spot outside the part, than gets in the the cutting path with a short segment.
LightBurn offers this option in the settings under advance for layers set to Line, you need to play with it and preview your project before cutting.
I hope it helps,
Ciao
Plastic rollers?
Hi nice that someone can make it work in 3D, can u share the machine settings pls, my engravings with neje Max 4 extended looks distorted I thinks is something to do with the machine x or y acceleration, pls 🙏
Do you have your calibration / tests files for download?
im not sure about the board attached to the gantry , you have a usb and power cable be pulled around
Hi, @jdmej1510; thank you for your comment.
That is exactly what I discuss in the Cons section toward the end of the video.
The main board should either be in a fixed part of the frame or the connection so they are not dragged around with the movement.
Ciao
ciao!
grazie per il video, molto utile e accurato..come tutti i tuoi video!
avevo una curiosità su questo neje..mi sapresti dire che distanza c'è tra il piano di lavoro (dove appoggia la macchina, escluso l'honeycomb) alla fine del motore dell'asse z?
in pratica vorrei sapere l'ingombro massimo in altezza del laser.
ti ringrazio
Giacomo
Ciao Giacomo, grazie per il commento.
L'altezza che mi chiedi é 200mm
Fai conto che hai anche il modulo laser che nella posizione piú alta inclusi i cavi raggiunge i 230mm, se invece vui abbassare il modulo cosi da non superare il motore nella posizione piú alta, allora sotto ti rimangono 60mm tra l'ugello ed il piano d'appoggio che sono generalmente sufficienti per lavorare.
Spero sia utile.
Ciao
Giuseppe
@@MiddleRoomWorkshop grazie mille per la risposta!
mi serviva l'altezza perche ho in mente di prendere anche io questa macchina e volevo essere sicuro che entrasse nell'enclosure che ho!
sei stato gentilissinìmo, al prossimo video!
Giacomo
Ggreat video. I have just bought one of these. I am trying to do some material tests from with Lightburn. But I am getting confused about what to do with the z height. When doing a job I would set the material thickness. But I cannot do this from within the material tester. When I run it, the text prints with the laser much higher than when it runs the cut boxes
Hiw do I set this up please?
Hi Thank you for your comment.
I can suggest whatching my dedicated video here th-cam.com/video/-Rq0_eCy2k8/w-d-xo.html I go over the process in details.
Setting the z-axis can be a bit overwhelming, but once done if you do not move the machine or change the cutting bed, all is good.
Let me know how it goes.
Ciao
Do you have a video showing how to go from 3D CAD file to a 3D engraving on the Max4?
Hi, thank you for your comment.
Yes, I have a video showing the exact workflow I used to create the very same engraving you saw in this video review.
th-cam.com/video/G6zYpj6Fbac/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KSFaE9bZ_nao86y1
Ciao
I think on this controller board, it isn‘t possible to change the stepper motor driver to some more quiet, is it?
Hi, Thank you for your comment.
Correct, you cannot change anything in the mainboard of these machines.
Ciao
Very curious about how the uneven engraving works. It mentioned surface modeling on the store page. Does this mean I can import any optimized, 3d scanned object in and have it engrave the uneven surface?
Hi, thank you for your comment.
Unfortunately, it is not as straightforward as it looks like.
Lightburn does not work in 3D; it can only launch a gcode with a 3D path.
If you scan the surface, you then need to import the file into CAM software to produce the tool path you need. In my case, I went for Fusion 360 and used a CNC tooling strategy.
Here I show how I went about it th-cam.com/video/G6zYpj6Fbac/w-d-xo.html
I hope it helps,
Ciao
@MiddleRoomWorkshop thank you so much! I do not have experience with fusion.. time to learn! Your channel as been a great resource for comparing machines and deciding which one to get. I really appreciate the details you put into your videos.
Hi, thank you for your feedback and compliment.
I am glad that you find my content valuable and helpful.
Ciao
Tough question maybe... :) would you consider a neje 4 max with a40640 or better get a neje 3 max with an e40?
Hi, thank you for your comment.
If we compare the lasers, the E40 is better, the spot is smaller, and the cut is cleaner.
If we compare the machines leaving the z axis, the machines are comarable in terms of size and performance.
I hope it helps
Ciao
@@MiddleRoomWorkshop thanks,
Budget wisen max3+e40 and max4+a40640 are similar. (And other options like ikier 12w and Falcon 2 22w). I'm trying to figure out if I want/need z axis.
I'll probably be cutting up to 10mm wood and doing some engraved for the kids ;)
(Have a master 2 with a 3500mw (input) laser)
Hi, thank you for your feedback.
I am currently working with the Falcon 2 22W and I am very satisfied with it.
The z-axis is nice, but is another thing to set and maintain, and honestly, the traditional manual focus with a clearance plate is quicker. Unless you do not want to do fancy things or switch focus between layers, and you do not mind the traditional quick manual focus, then you do not need it.
I still have the NEJE 4, but I use it for larger engravings.
If I should buy it I would go for the Falcon 2 22W as it comes from a reliable and well-established brand, is smart, is powerful, it comes ready to go no assembly needed and you get the air pump with air control.
In contrast, the NEJE 4 Max, which is also a nice and reliable machine, does not come ready as you need your own air source, and you also need the electro valve to automatically operate the air. Requires assembly, and the Z axis must be set properly to work. Furthermore is a machine that has a moving mainboard, which is o weak point prone to break over time.
Furthermore, a 20W machine is an optimal power for all purposes, especially if you intend to cut 10mm, from time to time.
See below the video review of the Falcon 2 22W, the Z-axis operation with the NEJE 4 Max, and a comparison with other 20W machines.
th-cam.com/video/spOIRyTYXlw/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/-Rq0_eCy2k8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/1AAsPDCYPBs/w-d-xo.html
Furthermore, below are some discount links for the NEJE 4 Max with the E40 Module, the E80 Module and finally the Falcon 2 22W.
affiliate.geekbuying.com/gkbaffiliate.php?id=3783&url=1059685
affiliate.geekbuying.com/gkbaffiliate.php?id=3783&url=1059686
affiliate.geekbuying.com/gkbaffiliate.php?id=3783&url=960823
I hope it helps.
Ciao
Please can I cut gold mirror cardstock with this?
Hi, thank you for your comment.
I haven't tried it, but I cut gold mirror plastic and it works flawlessly.
As long as the material is not transparent you should have no problems.
I hope it helps.
Ciao
Nice Demo of the Z-axis, a lot better as the demo from NEJE.
I modified exactly the same things as you, but als i bought all the advised things (regretably now). The honycomb comes from the Max3 and does not fit at all, it always skewed, it ist not possible to fit it right. Solution is to put a peace of wood of 5 mm thick uinder the honeycomb so the honeycomb is 5 mm from your surface, enough to not burn in your talbe. So front side on the laser and the bacjk on wood. on top i put some packaging material so the Honycomb cannot slide.
BTW All my hex nuts where lose also the ones on the Z-axis, very bad enginereing.
Question did you use the door swicht? Because if i use mine i have to reset the whole machine to go further. I find it uselesss.
Also i ditched the belt tensioners, completly useless.
Hi, @bartv6387; thank you for your comment and compliment :).
I haven't ever owned that honeycomb, but it is terrible if it does not fit. Products should always be back-compatibles in my opinion. I saw they are selling these profiles that directly connect to the base, but only in the extended version which is pity.
Put a layer of kitchen aluminium foil possibly wrinkled under your honeycomb to avoid burning your table. The laser can't cut or damage aluminium and if it is wrinkled, the reflection does not directly hit back the laser module and its optics.
I haven't found loose fasteners in my machine, I did a random check, and they were okay.
Also, I haven't tried the door switch yet; if I remember correctly in the 3 Pro once the button was released you simply had to go home and were ready to go, but I will let you know how it performs on my machine in the next couple of days.
The belt tensioners are a nice addon and come really handy when you deal with larger and longer belts, but the belts are to be set and forgotten, so it may be unnecessary for such a machine.
Ciao
ciao, questo laser dice di avere un Focus Size: 0.06×0.06mm potresti fare vedere se è davvero cosi? anche perchè io ne ho uno e proiettando il laser su una parete si vede chiaramente che è rettangolare il focus size... te ne sarei grato, saluti
Ciao @woodenwork480, grazie per il tuo commento.
Non ho verificato l'esatta dimensione del fuoco ma posso mettere il video in lista per il futuro.
Nel frattempo posso dirti che la dimensione é molto piccola rispetto ad altri laser da 20W e 10W, ad ogni modo la forma non potrá mai essere quadrata.
Quindi sebbene i produttori publicizzano questi laser con fuco di forma quadra no lo sono, e molto difficile otticamente collimare un fascio luminoso che di fonte é rettangolare e di conseguensa puo solo avvicinarsi ad un quadrato ma non esserlo.
Spero ti sia utile.
Ciao
It looks like you are using fusion 360 to get a 3D toolpath. I’ve been trying to figure this out without having to run the gcode through some kind of python workflow. Are you going to address this workflow at some point? I’m very interested in this and am not sure why the laser engraving world is so stuck in 2D.
Hi, @shemj1215; thank you for your comment.
Yes, that was Fusion 360, and I had to post-process the toolpath to be usable; however, I manually edited a couple of lines necessary to let this work directly in the G-code file.
Soon I am going to show exactly how I went about the engraving shown in the video.
I believe that 3D engraving is great, especially now that we can quickly scan any surface that can be imported into our CAM software.
Ciao
Nice!
Yo, could I pay you to help me set my neje 4 correctly? Let me know
Hi, @quentinwiley_ ; thank you for your feedback.
I usually help my viewers at no charge in the comment section.
Feel free to ask or explain your issue, and I will try to troubleshoot and help you to the best of my possibility.
If you need something more specific, then you can write me at info@whathowwhysolution.com
Ciao