Before you disconnect your hose turn you tractor off and try to work the lever for the hose your going to disconnect and that will bleed the pressure off
Thanks for sharing! I want to do the same project one day. Make sure you keep your lower arm tensionner very tight as this rigid pivot connection will not allow any side flex. I bought a shorter cylinder on which I will fit a ball joint at the base for that purpose. I will weld the other ball joint directly on the rod. Hydraulic lock sometimes happen... Sometimes, just a temperature change will do it. I usually avoid retracting cylinder to their very bottom position to avoid that. With a rag and hammer is the way to unlock a fitting. New subscriber here! Thanks!
Great ideas, thankyou for sharing your experience. Currently I am building a tractor bucket for my 3-point with a similar cylinder. I had not even considered side flex, now I may need to rethink what I am doing. If you're watching my 3 point bucket build videos (more to follow #1), I would appreciate any feedback you have. Thanks again
every time I watch this video I have to smile thinking about how exciting it is to get a hydraulic controlled top link. so nice to have that luxury. love the cab tractor very nice.
Good job. Thanks for the info on installing the hyd top link. It seems to be a common issue with the occasional difficulty with pressure in the lines when reconnecting. Have not seen a simple quick fix or solution other than what you tried. 👍🤠
One thing to keep in mind is that the original link had heim joints at both end and this hydraulic link is straight legged at both ends, this means there is no provision for side to side movement, only straight up and down. You will have to keep a very tight watch one your side to side sway control on the lower arms otherwise you will very quickly find the fatigue limits of your ear mounts on the top link
Yes, several other commenters have mentioned exactly what you said, my plan is to eventually change it to a real hydraulic top link and use this one for something else. Lesson learned! thank you for watching and for your feedback 👍
@@anesthesiadreamin you can actually buy just the heim joints by themselves in the cat 1 diameter, cut off your yokes and weld them on. From what I see here I'm sure that would be a cakewalk for you
@@Hugh_Jarsole Great! I will look for them. I think that will make connecting it a whole lot easier as well, I won't have to fight to have it perfectly lined up LOL
LOL be sure to get the real hydraulic top link, not one with a double yoke, several people have commented below that that double end can break, but you may already know that! Thanks for watching and for your comments 👍
I also have a hyd top link and I find it easier to connect the top link and then the telescoping lower arms, rather than trying to finesse the hydraulics.
Seems like I've read that you're not supposed to use tape on hydraulic fittings -- that it'll cause leakage. Did you find that to be the case? I wish I could be one of those "experts" who never seem to have problems with pressure, but sadly, I'm right there with you (e.g., with my backhoe). What's the thing you like most about having the hydraulic top link, now that you've had it on for a while?
I haven't had them leak yet, but I have understood that as well, my dealer told me they use teflon tape all the time, that's why I did, but if it leaks it's definitely coming out. In my next hydraulic projects I won't use it. In any event, I don't use the hydraulic top link for the land plane / grader scraper, but I use it regularly with a box blade, and the straight blade. It is so nice to be able to tilt and change the angle from the seat. But make sure you don't get one with two tabs on each end like mine, it should only have one tab on each end for the cross pins to go through. Tab may be the wrong word, but two tabs does not allow for side to side movement.
You should use teflon on the pipe thread portion of the fitting. Do not use it on the jic or tapered part of the connection. It uses the taper or bevel to seal.
Be sure you don't let the implement move side to side any at all. It will break the eye off the cylinder . there's a reason why a top link has the ball joint ends. They will take a lot of side to side movement. Good luck hope it works for you.
I'm not sure it matters. But one thing to pay attention to, is make sure to get the link ends that have only one "ear" (ie, cap flange or clevis), Don't use the one like I have, that has two "ears" (where the pin goes thru). The style I used in this video does not have enough side to side play, if the implement sway side to side, this type could actually break. So make sure to get the one with one clevis end, preferably with a rotating ball that can take up the lateral movement without breaking.
Thank you for sharing, I'm in the process of installing a Top Link on my JD 2210 to operate a box blade. Have you made any additional improvements since you released this video such as the suggestion by "From Steel To Wood" to add a ball joint to allow for side flex? If so I'd be interested to see how you updated your installation. New Subscriber to your channel.
Did you break the ends off the cylinder yet? There is a reason to have the ball ends on the cylinder for sway and swivel without that play they will snap so easy. Cheap isn't always the best way to go.
Yes, you are correct! But no I haven't broken them off yet. Actually, I abandoned this idea, and repurposed the cylinder for a hydraulic powered grader blade, it's one of my newest videos. And I did that based on viewer feedback just like yours. Thanks for the good advice 👍
Nice work A-dreamin. Does your Mahindra have a rear 3 point lift switch? I noticed you were able to left your 3 pt hitch while your were outside the tractor. I sure do like that. Enjoyed a full-watch. Have a fine weekend.
You re going to hurt yourself learn how to use a grinder. Work your levers back and forth to relieve pressure. Hitting the end under pressure can cause the field to puncture your skin and will be a very painful trip to the hospital . You can lose your limb
@@IsambardKingdom You're absolutely right, commenters in the past have mentioned that as well. I could have just bought at least one single end that would screw on and be category one ball to begin with
Before you disconnect your hose turn you tractor off and try to work the lever for the hose your going to disconnect and that will bleed the pressure off
Cody Russell, im thinking the air in the line is to blame. May not have been but he also could have had his lever in the wrong spot by accident.
Thanks for sharing! I want to do the same project one day. Make sure you keep your lower arm tensionner very tight as this rigid pivot connection will not allow any side flex. I bought a shorter cylinder on which I will fit a ball joint at the base for that purpose. I will weld the other ball joint directly on the rod. Hydraulic lock sometimes happen... Sometimes, just a temperature change will do it. I usually avoid retracting cylinder to their very bottom position to avoid that. With a rag and hammer is the way to unlock a fitting. New subscriber here! Thanks!
Great ideas, thankyou for sharing your experience. Currently I am building a tractor bucket for my 3-point with a similar cylinder. I had not even considered side flex, now I may need to rethink what I am doing. If you're watching my 3 point bucket build videos (more to follow #1), I would appreciate any feedback you have. Thanks again
BTW if you make a video of your cylinder build I would like to see it
Great point on the side flex!
every time I watch this video I have to smile thinking about how exciting it is to get a hydraulic controlled top link. so nice to have that luxury. love the cab tractor very nice.
When the tractors off hit your hydraulic lever to release the pressure
Good job. Thanks for the info on installing the hyd top link. It seems to be a common issue with the occasional difficulty with pressure in the lines when reconnecting. Have not seen a simple quick fix or solution other than what you tried. 👍🤠
Just move your hydraulic lever back and forth with engine shut off.
One thing to keep in mind is that the original link had heim joints at both end and this hydraulic link is straight legged at both ends, this means there is no provision for side to side movement, only straight up and down. You will have to keep a very tight watch one your side to side sway control on the lower arms otherwise you will very quickly find the fatigue limits of your ear mounts on the top link
Yes, several other commenters have mentioned exactly what you said, my plan is to eventually change it to a real hydraulic top link and use this one for something else. Lesson learned! thank you for watching and for your feedback 👍
@@anesthesiadreamin you can actually buy just the heim joints by themselves in the cat 1 diameter, cut off your yokes and weld them on. From what I see here I'm sure that would be a cakewalk for you
@@Hugh_Jarsole Great! I will look for them. I think that will make connecting it a whole lot easier as well, I won't have to fight to have it perfectly lined up LOL
@@anesthesiadreamin should be able to find 7/8" heim joints link ends at places like tractor supply, rural king etc
@@anesthesiadreamin might even be cheaper to buy a cheap cat 1 top link and chop em off
Hydraulic spray everywhere 11:18...welcome to my world. This was a very informative video. Looking forward to purchasing a hydraulic top link.
LOL be sure to get the real hydraulic top link, not one with a double yoke, several people have commented below that that double end can break, but you may already know that! Thanks for watching and for your comments 👍
I also have a hyd top link and I find it easier to connect the top link and then the telescoping lower arms, rather than trying to finesse the hydraulics.
aha, I've never tried that! Thanks for the tip. I'll try that next time. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Seems like I've read that you're not supposed to use tape on hydraulic fittings -- that it'll cause leakage. Did you find that to be the case?
I wish I could be one of those "experts" who never seem to have problems with pressure, but sadly, I'm right there with you (e.g., with my backhoe).
What's the thing you like most about having the hydraulic top link, now that you've had it on for a while?
I haven't had them leak yet, but I have understood that as well, my dealer told me they use teflon tape all the time, that's why I did, but if it leaks it's definitely coming out. In my next hydraulic projects I won't use it. In any event, I don't use the hydraulic top link for the land plane / grader scraper, but I use it regularly with a box blade, and the straight blade. It is so nice to be able to tilt and change the angle from the seat. But make sure you don't get one with two tabs on each end like mine, it should only have one tab on each end for the cross pins to go through. Tab may be the wrong word, but two tabs does not allow for side to side movement.
You should use teflon on the pipe thread portion of the fitting. Do not use it on the jic or tapered part of the connection. It uses the taper or bevel to seal.
You're going to want a flow restrictor because when your tractor is running higher than idle the top link will move entirely too fast to be usable.
Be sure you don't let the implement move side to side any at all. It will break the eye off the cylinder . there's a reason why a top link has the ball joint ends. They will take a lot of side to side movement. Good luck hope it works for you.
Yes, thanks, you are right, i need to upgrade to a true hydraulic top link and use this one elsewhere. Thanks for watching and commenting
Swivel adapters will work just fine on the cylinder ends, both ends. No cutting and welding needed.
Lol. I love it! You’re not afraid to learn!
Pretty good results though!
How are you extending the top link from the rear of the tractor?
I've watched videos with the extending side of top link positioned both tractor side and implement side? Now not sure which is correct way????
I'm not sure it matters. But one thing to pay attention to, is make sure to get the link ends that have only one "ear" (ie, cap flange or clevis), Don't use the one like I have, that has two "ears" (where the pin goes thru). The style I used in this video does not have enough side to side play, if the implement sway side to side, this type could actually break. So make sure to get the one with one clevis end, preferably with a rotating ball that can take up the lateral movement without breaking.
Thank you for sharing, I'm in the process of installing a Top Link on my JD 2210 to operate a box blade. Have you made any additional improvements since you released this video such as the suggestion by "From Steel To Wood" to add a ball joint to allow for side flex? If so I'd be interested to see how you updated your installation. New Subscriber to your channel.
Did you break the ends off the cylinder yet? There is a reason to have the ball ends on the cylinder for sway and swivel without that play they will snap so easy. Cheap isn't always the best way to go.
Yes, you are correct! But no I haven't broken them off yet. Actually, I abandoned this idea, and repurposed the cylinder for a hydraulic powered grader blade, it's one of my newest videos. And I did that based on viewer feedback just like yours. Thanks for the good advice 👍
I relieve the pressure by wrapping a rag around the fitting and then I press it against a flat metal portion. Don't need to carry a hammer that way.
Nice work A-dreamin. Does your Mahindra have a rear 3 point lift switch? I noticed you were able to left your 3 pt hitch while your were outside the tractor. I sure do like that. Enjoyed a full-watch. Have a fine weekend.
No, it doesn't!!! I wish it did have a rear switch. I was reaching thru the open window of the cab LOL Thanks for watching
Couldn’t you get an adapter ?
Not sure how long that plastic jog is going to last on back of tractor
Modt hit on everything except the part where you mention weights your top link is not weight bearing the lower links do the lifting
You re going to hurt yourself learn how to use a grinder. Work your levers back and forth to relieve pressure. Hitting the end under pressure can cause the field to puncture your skin and will be a very painful trip to the hospital . You can lose your limb
Why are mucking around with the wrong type of end fittings - waste of time
@@IsambardKingdom You're absolutely right, commenters in the past have mentioned that as well. I could have just bought at least one single end that would screw on and be category one ball to begin with