Direct injection, high compression, single turbo. These turbochargers from factory are rated to push out a maximum of 33.3 psi (~2.3 BAR) of boost pressure. Installing mods or performing tunes that increase fuel consumption or charge air density without proper maintenance and protocol can and will cause these early B9 engines to easily flatline. Another thing is that a lot of Audi owners push their cars very hard not only at low rpm as said in the video but also when the engine is cold. 0-20 is very thin, improper operating temperature and low viscosity can cause oil consumption, which leads to oil starvation, which will lead to engine failure. Dave is a good guy and knows his stuff. It was nice to see another perspective on Audis, especially from a guy that doesn’t deal with them too often, and it’s even better to see a video from VAG Technic to get a second perspective on everything. We appreciate everything that you guys do! -An Audi technician in the USA
I think most of us that have been watching you deal with these engines the past few years knew what the deal was here but I'm glad you directly responded to Dave's video.
The channel often radiates negative energy around these cars/platforms, and I would really like the positive aspects to be mentioned more in the future. This is really refreshing to hear because I believe that the EA839 has more positive aspects than negative ones. Thank you for the video, many greetings from a Slavic brother 👍
@@jeanfrancoismenard705 it depends on the month it was made, I’m not exactly sure of the month off of the top of my head but one of the first videos on this channel about rocker arms they do mention it. Also you can check with a borescope through the oil fill cap and see the size of the roller’s bearings.
LSPI can happen at all operating temperatures and RPM and load areas. There is research proving the concept or thought that LSPI only happens on a cold engine with cold oil wrong. There does seem to be correlation to slightly - note - slightly more frequent occurrence but can happen at all ranges. Search for LSPI research papers and you'll see. To me personally it anyways make sense to have more LSPI when things are warm and hot and under high load than cool temperatures (relatively speaking) and lower loads just cruising around - but trust the research not a random comment. The most agreed upon main contributing factor and cause of damage of LSPI is pre-igniting of oil in the ring lands. After that you can discuss what causes the oil to get there and to ignite, some things that have an influence or effect - - Oil chemisty - most often high in calcium (a detergent) will cause the oil and fuel to mix and emulsify instead of separating out like it'd do with a low calcium content oil. The "LSPI proof" oils have low calcium content for this reason, most performance or racing oils do not have low calcium content or any certification at all - the type of oils a lot of these tuned cars like to run. There is a direct link and correlation between low calcium oils and reduced LSPI occurence - check the research. - Fuel dilution in the oil - through worsening injectors (bad atomization and spray pattern causing more fuel to not be atomized and end up in the crankcase instead) or through repeated short journeys where the car doesn't get up to operating temperature and stay there for long enough to evaporate the fuel that got into the oil at the start - happens to all cars but the negatives are minimized by driving the car warm for long enough for all fuel to evaporate out of the oil - a high calcium oil makes this more difficult, a low calcium one makes it easier - LSPI friendly oils are recommended. - Piston design - a piston design with not enough tension in the rings and/or not enough oil return area and flow in the oil ring groove OR if the oil return groove has carboned up will make it so the oil scraped by the rings can't get back to the crankcase through the piston but instead needs to return through being wiped off the cylinder walls - the increased amount of oil stuck on the walls not returning through the piston and instead needing wiping in combination with low tension rings will make it so more or will get through the gaps in the ring or by the walls and either go directly into the cylinder or be stuck between the compression and oil control ring in which case it might fill up all the way around or just find its way to a spot hot enough to combust it. Like someone else said the purpose of the holes in the piston and the purpose of the oil groove are not primarily to oil the walls but to scrape of the excess oil on the walls that the sprayers deposited and return it into the crankcase through the piston. They do some oiling / act as an oil reservoir to a point but it's not their primary and only purpose. Whilst a stronger piston like you suggest would help that'd be a bit like turning up the radio louder when the car is making a noise - sure solves the situation for the moment (piston cracking because of LSPI) but doesn't solve the base problem - LSPI causing pressure peaks in the ring lands and tops of the piston. Take care of the above I mentioned and combine it with a strong piston and I think you'll have a solid and reliable solution. But don't take my word for it 100%, this is info I've gathered from research papers amongst other things. Lake Speed Jr through the TH-cam channels "Motor oil geek" and "Totalseal piston rings" has a lot of info on LSPI, rings and oil. Just search any of those names followed by LSPI and you'll get everything from lectures to short videos. He's a tribologist (oil and lubrication specialist / oil and lubrication engineer) and works for a ring manufacturing company.
Excellent analytical skills and knowledge. You obviously see these failures often, so you are in a great position to offer a considered opinion as to how they meet their end😂 components are being made lighter and lighter to save more polar bears. But lightness can lead to weaknesses. Loving the content Thomas❤
I’m from the US and what Dave is talking about with a “SP” rated motor oil it just means that it is the most current US oil rating. The 2 oil ratings that are best for direct injected/ turbocharged engines are: API “American Petroleum Institute” SN Plus or SP rated motor oils. These motor oils are proven to help reduce low speed pre-detonation there’s a lot of low quality oils here in the US that don’t have these ratings and using a cheap motor oil that doesn’t have those ratings can make a difference. The majority of the low speed pre-detonation is mostly caused by the cheap gas people buy here in the US. Europe tends to have much higher quality gasoline than the US. I’ve owned multiple Volkswagens and the only motor oils I’ll use in them are VW rated oils it definitely makes a difference.
You were mostly right except for about the fuel quality. Fuel quality in the US is not lower than Europe. The difference is they have lower sulfur content in gasoline in Europe to lower emissions. We've seen how low sulfur content in diesel fuel actually creates issues with lubricity. It could cause issues with gasoline vehicles as well. Additives have to be added to the fuel in order to restore some lubricity. But even then, I wouldn't be surprised if Europe actually has more cases of these lubricity issues on gasoline vehicles. Europe altered their regulations in order to reduce sulfur content so the emissions equipment and particulate filters can work even better. But we know it creates problems as well.
@@mediocreman2 A lot of people don't realize that europe using a different octane scale than the US so they think 98 euro is better than 93 US when it's the same.
There is something thats out of the oil. . And that lowers the risk of lspi. I thing it's calcium or something . My audi needs 0w20 but i don't use that . I use 5w40 . I don't trust that thin oil. Well see what happens after a while. . . I'm not a mechanic but i fix everything on all my audi's 🙏
problem is that APIs ratings are garbage, if you care about oil you run Euro specs, like Porche A40, BMW LL-01 or MB229.52. i dont even look for the API rating because it means nothing
Thomas you are great professional! Thanks a lot for the valuable information and explanations. I wish you success and prosperity to the channel and your business!👏🏻
I saw Daves video about the Audi engine. I was so tempted to contact him and link him to your channel! Looks like someone beat me to it. Both great channels.
What he's saying is the low tension rings wont swipe the bore of oil sufficiently until it comes up to temp. The rings are hydroplaning and the oil is assisting detonation.
You make so good points in this video. Nothing is black & white and opinions will vary. As you say, flooring the pedal at low rpm puts a lot of stress on the internals. Looking at that engine, the exhaust outlet on that turbo is massive. It’s clearly moving a lot of air. Thanks for the technical update, good video.
I watch Dave and VAG all the time. When I saw Dave’s video I had to chuckle, this kids never torn down an engine like this! I hoped that you would see this, the reaction video was a big gift!
The guy's full of sh*t. He says "the oil is so thick it gets past the second ring" How could it do that if it doesn't get past the oil ring? Regardless, modern synthetic engine oils are NEVER thick. Even synthetic diff oils flow like water when cold.
GF-6A oil was created to address LSPI issues. They noticed that oils that have high calcium detergents was causing it, so they lowered the almost used in the oil. So anyone not running the correct oil will damage your engine that is Direct Injection
I have a 2019 SQ5 with 125000km wit a TTE810 pushing 750hp and never had issues . Oil changed ever 5000km with Motul 5w40 . Fantastic engine and like was mentioned in this video most problem with this engine are caused between the engine and the steering wheel 😂 . Great video keep up the good work 😉
Hi, Great video and content. I've worked in F1 as a Materials Engineer for F1 ICE. What you showed on the piston was a fatigue failure, caused by the sharp edge on the piston crown where the valve undercut is. If this edge was smoothed or shot peened, this would eliminate the issue and failure from occurring.
Great video. Although I am happy that you don’t have too many 4.0TT (for instance CTGE) on the channel, since I own one… It would be great to see you go through that one in the same way, strengths and weaknesses.
Great video. Enjoy to hear and learn from your engine analysis from a serviceability point of view 👍 much appreciated your sharing of knowledge to the Audi community (and Porsche 😊)
I'm on my 2nd B9/B9.5 S4. The engine/trans hates being cold. I always drive in sport just to keep the RPM in the 3k range. You can feel the car get upset when you ask for power down low....especially when cold. However in regular D mode the trans wants to keep the car in the lowest RPM as possible. Just drive it easy in sport or manually shift to keep RPM's up and boost pressure low until the car is up to temp.
I put a TCU tune on my old S3 I owned just because it always wanted to shift to high gear immediately. Wasnt even in too tuning but shifting strategy made me hate that car till I tuned the TCU. I didnt touch any other part of the car lol.
The low-speed pre-ignition is absolutely the cause. This happens in other makes of engines here in the USA when people use the wrong oil in them. It's not just a specific Audi piston issue. It's an oil use problem. Here in the USA we see it in NA DI engines, not just forced induction.
I do the same. Audi 'recommend', a 5W30 in my DNWA RS3, but over here in Australia where it gets pretty hot in summer, there is better engine protection with a 5W40 at the cost of perhaps a very very marginal degree of engine efficiency from a fuel perspective.
This is great. I watched that video from Dave some time ago and at the time I was kind of questioning the logic behind his explanation. LSPI? I kind of understand that this might be the case if there was a failing injector that was bleeding in more fuel than it was supposed to leading to cylinder wall washing and then detonation in the ring lands. I am more inclined to agree with your assessment as to what caused the piston to fail given the physical damage that seemed to have been occurring over time before that section of piston gave way. Pretty clear to me that the piston has a weak spot as you showed.
Good to know the EA839 is a solid platform. Currently driving a b8.5 Allroad, love the car, but am eventually planning to upgrade to a c8 A6 Allroad in the future. It's proven difficult to find much information on these cars since not many people have them here in the states. I'd get something other than the Allroad, but it's either that or spend $100k+ on an RS6, which I don't have lol. No other estate cars were offered here unfortunately.
what about the later versions of oem pistons looks like, they definitely not strong as the forged ones, but nice to see how they are compare to the early one
It is quite strange that the pre ignition happens between the rings. That area is cold compared to combustion chamber and the cold is not qood fot the detonation to happen...
the pre-ignition i experienced when cylinder 6 piston cracked in my 2018 b9 s5 was audible and it was always when IAT's were the highest. never pushed it cold
Thanks again this GOOD video/TH-cam! Any experience about Audi Diesel engines? Our Q5 diesel Audi, oil consumption was quite high levell. Now all is new in the engine block and Audi warranty was GOOD in this case
Cool video once again! Can you make a video about the 2.0 tdi engines? I’ve watched a lot of your videos, also about all the 3.0 TDI’s & all the S/RS’s, but i haven’t seen (many) on the 2.0 TDI’s. I have a CAH 2.0 TDI and would love to see a video about one of those, or similar engine code. Keep up the good work, you are very knowlidgeable!
Normally the detononation is not happening on gold parts of the cumpustion chamber like the pistor ring area. It is happening in the hot spots. And the non misted fuel will not change this. It will just make more CO and HC emissions entering to the cat...
The RS3 5-banger is the best from Audi reliability and power pound 4 pound, next I would say is the S3 4 cylinder is more reliable then the S4 or RS4 engine.
I tend to think that the B8 & 8.5 S4 Supercharged V6 was a better choice for both performance and longevity. I’d like to hear what VAG Technic thinks about this subject, as they fix the broken examples…
You would be surprised in the UK how many young drivers show off by pushing there cars turbo or non turbo within 1 minute of the engine being started. It's a case of you don't know what you don't know. I don't even put my 1.8T audi above 2k rpm until coolant is showing 90 degrees as a rule. Even when the engine is warmed up I try to not use my turbo and go above 2.5rpm unless necessary. Great video and in depth chat about these engines. I would love to know the weight difference between the OEM and forged piston and the thickness differences in areas of the piston. Thumbs up, watching from London.
As always very informative. From 13:00 , do you imply that it's better to kick it into sport (rather than staying in Drive and mashing the throttle) if you want to drive it 'sporty' ?
Thanks for the time you put into making these videos...assuming you make some after doing your days work...unlessyour single, you must have a very patience partner waiting for you at home
Nikasil is the lining on the cylinder wall. The block is aluminium. What he meant is that if the Nikasil coating is damaged the only repair is to bore it out and sleeve the hole with a cast iron sleeve. Nikasil lined bores are very sensitive and they cannot be recoated. Never ever use oil out of spec on nikasil engines.
The official Audi pdf about the EA839 says the cylinders are aluminum with 1.5mm GJL (iron) inserts. I doubt they use Nikasil because these days they plasma coat the cylinders instead using something like sumebore. If I remember correctly this is mentioned in the pdf for the rs3 engine for instance.
As an avid Audi owner and enthusiast, I understand how critical good quality oil is in our cars and how regular changes are literally life-saving for our engines. But, no oil or maintenance interval will safeguard you against faulty components. If Audi put weak pistons in their cars or poorly designed rocker arms, or, poor cylinder walls (V10 problems, remember those?) there is nothing you can do, unless you replace those parts. If the manufacturer screws up, you will pay the price eventually.
Love your videos, thanks for posting! What brand are your engine lift tables? We have a AGA Tools table that looks to be almost twice the size of what you guys use. I'd be interested in a smaller table such as yours. Any info / links would be appreciated!!! Keep up the great work / content!!!
"the motor oil geek "talks about that preignition because too much calcium in oil that causes it, so for DI engines must be used oils with low calcium:th-cam.com/video/39vt92txuAk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2A_QrjCt5TcEeReJ
American oil standards are very general... SP is the spec that combats LSPI. Euro cars in the states still spec the same oil specified by the manufacturer...VW 508.00/509.00, 504.00 / 507.00....
Great video! I agree with you 100% on all points discussed. One question I do have though is, from a a fuelling perspective, for those of us running E85, or a flex-fuel tune with an ethanol blend - of say E40 upwards as an example, my belief is that this would significant reduce the likelihood of LSPI, and thus a failed piston. Yes there is definitely a design flaw on the piston, but if the chances of LSPI can be greatly reduced via a different fuel type, that has to be a good thing, right? Interested to hear your thoughts on this! :) Cheers
i find it hard to believe that you can get an explosion in the very limited space in the ring lands and space between the bore and piston. the amount of quenching of heat from the piston and bore would make the area less susceptible to detonation. also, the volume of this potential detonation is minuscule.
It's well known here in Germany. An Audi constructor had redesigned the oil control rings incorrectly. This meant that the 5W-30 water-based oil, which is prone to coking, no longer allowed the rings to spread in the ring pockets, which were too small. The result is very high oil consumption and wear.
@@danielfl.9347 Of course, if you have a particulate filter from the end of 2018, you have to be careful about which cleaning oil you can use. 5W-30 may be the fixed interval oil for you. I know that the Siberian 0W-30 or 0W-20 oil is even worse. The engine in my friend's 1.5 also sounds like a sack of nuts. Of course, this is also because it has already done 25,000 km. Don't be fooled by these water-based oils, which only offer advantages for short journeys and quick cold start oiling. But on hot motorway stretches, on US highways, stages, these oils tend to burn. Of course we don't need thick oil like in the GT or 24-hour race 10W-60 or 20W-60. But in my 1.8 TSI, fully synthetic 5W-40, which I change every 10,000 km, is the best choice for me. &, the manufacturer's oil specification is only the minimum quality & not the highest. It is wrong that longlife oils with the long flexible change interval are described as high quality & fixed interval 5W-40 as inferior quality.
@@alexstromberg7696 Only in terms of viscosity it is comparable to water. You can see it very clearly when changing it, it runs out like water. Sewing machine oil is no different.
@@marcusk4152 Hmm I use 0W/30 in my twincharged TSI engine (supercharger and turbocharger) and change every 7-8000km. No Oil burning. But I would consider going up to 0W/40, but the problem is then the timing chain
Nice RS6 V10 in the background, sepang blue if i am not mistaken, as a RS6 C6 Owner myself i am looking forward to the video and your opinion on the RS6 C6 Platform.
A good explanation of 'lugging' the engine and the effects it has. He also describes trying to build boost at low rpm, as if you are on a 2 step in a drag car. Yes, idiots do stupid things. These engines are very refined and not very tolerable to abuse of this nature. They are designed to be fuel efficient and put out bags of horsepower out of the factory. If you want more, maybe you are driving the wrong car?
I will guess, a combination of: always low octane/ bad fuel; dirty injectors; poor quality or wrong viscosity oil; extended oil changes; short-tripping; always hammering it when it's still cold; grandma fuel-saving type driving in low rpms; lugging.
30 years ago was blowing ring lands out of 1.6 cvh engines with turbos😂😂....the normaly aspirated ones never realy killed,even at max rpm up hills on motorway..used to buy standard ,xr2 pistoms as cheap and get an old boy to machine tops flat and go.....didnt seem to fare anyworse than the correct Ford turbo pistons...happy days......
Are you saying that if we want to drive the car “sporty”, we should keep the RPMs over 3,000? Seems like we should use the manual shifters since even in dynamic drive mode the car is happy to stay below 3,000 rpm.
FYI - Those holes are not for washing the cylinder down with oil. They are for oil returning from the oil control/scrapper ring. Think about it... they have an upper and lower ring in the scrapper. No way for oil to escape. The upper 2 rings are for compression, and typically do not control oil but can act as back-up for the oil control rings.
What’s with all the EA839 engine codes DECA, DCAB, DGRC etc etc. I think the last letter is the power output? Anyone know exactly, would be good to know what parts are interchangeable like heads & block etc. cheers
@@alexstromberg7696 apparently some have different blocks. Some have bellhousing bolt patterns to suit ZF 8HP & others to suit a PDK. I’ve got a DCAB Cayenne that needs a replacement engine, but they’re hard to find. Seems as though the RS4/5 might be the only other suitable ‘short’ engine 🤷♂️
Hallo! I have a 4.2l B8 S5 manual, I just had the resonators removed from my car to get more noise and i started driving in the lower rpm range for a while, to not disturb my neighbours so to speak. Is this the reason i smell fuel from time to time? especially if i go to the shops 3 miles away and back? Normally when i drive further than that i always make sure to at least hit 3.5-4k rpm but not when going to the shops. What would you recommend? Love the channel as always
@@VAGTechnicthank you, been doing that since i got the car, so happy to know i dont have to change style. One last question. Do i need to take the ecu for a tune after just removing the resonators and middle muffler? I still have the 2 cats and 2 rear mufflers as stock and intend on keeping them like that
Can the light spot be a reason for a non-right working injector? So the combustion is not ideal and LSPI knocks the piston until it breaks at the weakest point. I think a lot of engines died because injectors don't work. Do you check them too?
They run 5w40 I switched my wife’s 2020 s5 to 0w30 specd for the rs5 and the car seems happy on that, slight upgrade without going way out of spec to double the viscosity but that’s just my opinion.
I agree Man just the thought of 0w20 inside a turbo charged engine is just crazy. Wtf Obviously the manufacturer doesnt have the engine longetivity in mind when theu sell this. Tell me im wrong. The only purpose of prescribing 0w20 is to bring the engine operating friction down to IMPROVE FUEL EVONOMY THATS IT. 0w20 will not protect that engine from eating itself up no way man. No way. I like 0w40 5W40 in a thrbocharged engine because when that engine heats up that 0w20 becomea even thinner even softer runnier how will it protect that bearings hoow. Come on. Crazy
I know this is a bit off topic, my 2014 Mercedes M276 naturally aspirated with 142k miles has low/normal oil pressure solenoid. in low mode It has NO piston squirter action, only above 3500 RPM do they come on, so for me that means never. However, unplugging solenoid allows normal pressure so piston squirters come on much sooner around 2000RPM. A few people are saying normal pressure produces too much tension on chains and wears center support gear/sprocket with soft brass bushing. Engine temps and oil temps are noticeably cooler unplugged in scan data, but without better information, I run plugged in. Any thoughts on this?
Currently have a 2020 SQ5 3.0T petrol w/40k+ kms still w/new warranty till Oct2024 and extended CPO warrany for another 2yrs/160k kms.Audi dealership is very "by-the-book" where I acquired it from.I've read and hear mix answers regarding 0w20 (I agree w/your opinion that this is 'water') vs 5w40. Regardless of warranty, is it truly safe to use 5w40? Any way I can tell that the engine in my vehicle have the upgraded revised version of the rocker arms?
One thing that isn't talked about is the engine cooling, engine bay temps etc. I'm not an expert on these cars but the engine looks really cramped and can imagine the bay temps get really high + high intake temps. There is something with the engine design as they don't make power like a daza which is smaller but reponds much better. Watching further into your video and youve shown the hot v design. This sort of backs my point about heat being an issue.
I’ve a S4 b9 and a problem with a ticking noise from the driver's side (Europe), replaced the HPFP and rocker arms didnt solve the problem, what can it be?
It’s frustrating when manufacturers hide the truth about design issues. There are people in Ingolstadt who could shine a light on this but would be shot if they came clean on their screw ups.
I've been a technician for 30 years with an associates degree in Automotive. So what David saying is interesting because if it was a thick oil issue and one of affected all six cylinders. I quit following day because he confusing and a little far-fetched he could be very persuasive and leave them down a very dangerous course with his methodology
looking upgrade from my old c6 2.0 tfsi gen 1 engine and these videos about 3.0 platform looks scary any one can give advise or recommendation wich engine and gearbox realible from 2018-19 to avoid money pit thanks in advance ( ps most interested in a6 c8 model )
Interesting comment about using 5w 40 I’ve a 2013 2.0ltr tdi superb since 2 year old Always changed oil at 10k using Quantum 5w 30 longlife 3 I’ve often wondered about using using 5w 40 Any thoughts anyone
You'll be good with 5w-30 in normal use diesel. I think he meant 5w-40 mostly for petrol engines, since those can see higher oil temperatures than diesel engines.
Hello to the boss of vag tech. Hi, I am your subscriber and an avid follower of your channel. I am looking for the most reliable A6. Petrol or diesel. Could you please suggest the best model/engine to go for. Your reply will be much appreciated. Thank you.
He is looking for the most robust & efficient maintainable engine causing low maintenance effort and cost. And I think thats still a 2.0 TDI or 2.0 TFSI.
I like Dave, but he's wrong! I've had 2 CAEB 2.0tfsi that at their worst were sucking down 1L of oil every 250-300 miles. If Dave's explanation was valid, I'd have easily blown multiple pistons!! 034's take on it is better in theroy, but it's still not a perfect solution, as I would do full pulls (2000-redline) for tuning at 28-35psi. If theirs was true, again, I'd have blown many pistons! I think it's a combo of both actually. The CAEB oil consumption issue is well known and cured by new pistons/rings. He mentioned that they did a mid-line revision of the pistons... hmmmm. Sounds like they have another CAEB drama on their hands. They cheaped out on the pistons and rings and it is a weak link. They moved to 0w-10 oil, that is too thin and allowing hot spots to form and you get oil fed detonation! This is VAG simply going cheap again with a poor design and the customers will pay for it again. In the US, VAG ended up paying millions for the CAEB oil consumption issue! When cars are re-engineered by the bean counters, you get this! They avoided drama in the EU, but it was still an issue! Good reason to avoid early B9 in a few years after their Leases run out! Cheers!!!
Direct injection, high compression, single turbo. These turbochargers from factory are rated to push out a maximum of 33.3 psi (~2.3 BAR) of boost pressure. Installing mods or performing tunes that increase fuel consumption or charge air density without proper maintenance and protocol can and will cause these early B9 engines to easily flatline. Another thing is that a lot of Audi owners push their cars very hard not only at low rpm as said in the video but also when the engine is cold. 0-20 is very thin, improper operating temperature and low viscosity can cause oil consumption, which leads to oil starvation, which will lead to engine failure.
Dave is a good guy and knows his stuff. It was nice to see another perspective on Audis, especially from a guy that doesn’t deal with them too often, and it’s even better to see a video from VAG Technic to get a second perspective on everything. We appreciate everything that you guys do!
-An Audi technician in the USA
It might be a single turbo, but it's twin scroll, so arguably better than two turbos on a V6 engine.
What oil do you like to run in audi's in the US?
@@johncoldwell340 In the US, we use 0w-20, 0w-30, 0w-40, and 5w-40 (VW 508, VW 504, VW 511 and VW 502). It all depends on engine code and model.
That’s because your fuel is more like window-cleaner, in my S4 B8.5 only gets 100 octane. Germany 🫡 no LSPI never
@@antonfloor344 The premium octane fuel I believe is 95 ron in the US! That is our standard and our premium is 98 ron.
Both Dave and VAG Technic have made good points. We appreciate all your opinions, we always learn. Thanks
I think most of us that have been watching you deal with these engines the past few years knew what the deal was here but I'm glad you directly responded to Dave's video.
The channel often radiates negative energy around these cars/platforms, and I would really like the positive aspects to be mentioned more in the future. This is really refreshing to hear because I believe that the EA839 has more positive aspects than negative ones. Thank you for the video, many greetings from a Slavic brother 👍
VAG engines are just plain rubbish. I'm glad that it is apparent on this channel
As an Audi technician and b9s4 owner I love this video and your channel thank you.
hi bud do you know if b9s4 years 2019 have the latest revision rocker arm or nobody know when Audi updated thoses.
@@jeanfrancoismenard705 it depends on the month it was made, I’m not exactly sure of the month off of the top of my head but one of the first videos on this channel about rocker arms they do mention it. Also you can check with a borescope through the oil fill cap and see the size of the roller’s bearings.
But yes in 2019 they made the update
LSPI can happen at all operating temperatures and RPM and load areas. There is research proving the concept or thought that LSPI only happens on a cold engine with cold oil wrong. There does seem to be correlation to slightly - note - slightly more frequent occurrence but can happen at all ranges. Search for LSPI research papers and you'll see. To me personally it anyways make sense to have more LSPI when things are warm and hot and under high load than cool temperatures (relatively speaking) and lower loads just cruising around - but trust the research not a random comment.
The most agreed upon main contributing factor and cause of damage of LSPI is pre-igniting of oil in the ring lands.
After that you can discuss what causes the oil to get there and to ignite, some things that have an influence or effect -
- Oil chemisty - most often high in calcium (a detergent) will cause the oil and fuel to mix and emulsify instead of separating out like it'd do with a low calcium content oil. The "LSPI proof" oils have low calcium content for this reason, most performance or racing oils do not have low calcium content or any certification at all - the type of oils a lot of these tuned cars like to run. There is a direct link and correlation between low calcium oils and reduced LSPI occurence - check the research.
- Fuel dilution in the oil - through worsening injectors (bad atomization and spray pattern causing more fuel to not be atomized and end up in the crankcase instead) or through repeated short journeys where the car doesn't get up to operating temperature and stay there for long enough to evaporate the fuel that got into the oil at the start - happens to all cars but the negatives are minimized by driving the car warm for long enough for all fuel to evaporate out of the oil - a high calcium oil makes this more difficult, a low calcium one makes it easier - LSPI friendly oils are recommended.
- Piston design - a piston design with not enough tension in the rings and/or not enough oil return area and flow in the oil ring groove OR if the oil return groove has carboned up will make it so the oil scraped by the rings can't get back to the crankcase through the piston but instead needs to return through being wiped off the cylinder walls - the increased amount of oil stuck on the walls not returning through the piston and instead needing wiping in combination with low tension rings will make it so more or will get through the gaps in the ring or by the walls and either go directly into the cylinder or be stuck between the compression and oil control ring in which case it might fill up all the way around or just find its way to a spot hot enough to combust it. Like someone else said the purpose of the holes in the piston and the purpose of the oil groove are not primarily to oil the walls but to scrape of the excess oil on the walls that the sprayers deposited and return it into the crankcase through the piston. They do some oiling / act as an oil reservoir to a point but it's not their primary and only purpose.
Whilst a stronger piston like you suggest would help that'd be a bit like turning up the radio louder when the car is making a noise - sure solves the situation for the moment (piston cracking because of LSPI) but doesn't solve the base problem - LSPI causing pressure peaks in the ring lands and tops of the piston. Take care of the above I mentioned and combine it with a strong piston and I think you'll have a solid and reliable solution.
But don't take my word for it 100%, this is info I've gathered from research papers amongst other things.
Lake Speed Jr through the TH-cam channels "Motor oil geek" and "Totalseal piston rings" has a lot of info on LSPI, rings and oil. Just search any of those names followed by LSPI and you'll get everything from lectures to short videos. He's a tribologist (oil and lubrication specialist / oil and lubrication engineer) and works for a ring manufacturing company.
A better summation than offered by VAG's video.
Excellent analytical skills and knowledge. You obviously see these failures often, so you are in a great position to offer a considered opinion as to how they meet their end😂 components are being made lighter and lighter to save more polar bears. But lightness can lead to weaknesses. Loving the content Thomas❤
I’m from the US and what Dave is talking about with a “SP” rated motor oil it just means that it is the most current US oil rating. The 2 oil ratings that are best for direct injected/ turbocharged engines are: API “American Petroleum Institute” SN Plus or SP rated motor oils. These motor oils are proven to help reduce low speed pre-detonation there’s a lot of low quality oils here in the US that don’t have these ratings and using a cheap motor oil that doesn’t have those ratings can make a difference. The majority of the low speed pre-detonation is mostly caused by the cheap gas people buy here in the US. Europe tends to have much higher quality gasoline than the US. I’ve owned multiple Volkswagens and the only motor oils I’ll use in them are VW rated oils it definitely makes a difference.
You were mostly right except for about the fuel quality. Fuel quality in the US is not lower than Europe. The difference is they have lower sulfur content in gasoline in Europe to lower emissions. We've seen how low sulfur content in diesel fuel actually creates issues with lubricity. It could cause issues with gasoline vehicles as well. Additives have to be added to the fuel in order to restore some lubricity. But even then, I wouldn't be surprised if Europe actually has more cases of these lubricity issues on gasoline vehicles.
Europe altered their regulations in order to reduce sulfur content so the emissions equipment and particulate filters can work even better. But we know it creates problems as well.
Simply must have the VW rating.
@@mediocreman2 A lot of people don't realize that europe using a different octane scale than the US so they think 98 euro is better than 93 US when it's the same.
There is something thats out of the oil. . And that lowers the risk of lspi.
I thing it's calcium or something .
My audi needs 0w20 but i don't use that . I use 5w40 . I don't trust that thin oil. Well see what happens after a while. . . I'm not a mechanic but i fix everything on all my audi's 🙏
problem is that APIs ratings are garbage, if you care about oil you run Euro specs, like Porche A40, BMW LL-01 or MB229.52. i dont even look for the API rating because it means nothing
Thomas you are great professional! Thanks a lot for the valuable information and explanations. I wish you success and prosperity to the channel and your business!👏🏻
I saw Daves video about the Audi engine. I was so tempted to contact him and link him to your channel! Looks like someone beat me to it.
Both great channels.
Several people commented on the video about bad piston design.
Once again you answer so many questions and great diagnosis.
👏
What he's saying is the low tension rings wont swipe the bore of oil sufficiently until it comes up to temp. The rings are hydroplaning and the oil is assisting detonation.
You make so good points in this video. Nothing is black & white and opinions will vary. As you say, flooring the pedal at low rpm puts a lot of stress on the internals. Looking at that engine, the exhaust outlet on that turbo is massive. It’s clearly moving a lot of air. Thanks for the technical update, good video.
I watch Dave and VAG all the time. When I saw Dave’s video I had to chuckle, this kids never torn down an engine like this! I hoped that you would see this, the reaction video was a big gift!
Dave likes to hear his own voice. He goes on and on while poor customer is on phone waiting to hear how many thousands is it gonna cost. 😂
Yes but you have to understand how technical the repair is so that the $200,000 for a 4 hour job seems reasonable :D
His stupid analogy’s drive me crazy
The guy's full of sh*t. He says "the oil is so thick it gets past the second ring" How could it do that if it doesn't get past the oil ring? Regardless, modern synthetic engine oils are NEVER thick. Even synthetic diff oils flow like water when cold.
Detail to repairs are great but I skip over the drama nonsense when he's on the phone with a customer.
@@kevinv258 How about when he always references "the surgeon" opening people up like a doctor
I watched Dave's video, I like his channel a lot as well. I saw that Audi go into his shop and I was literally going to suggest he contact you LOL
Daves know his stuff
GF-6A oil was created to address LSPI issues. They noticed that oils that have high calcium detergents was causing it, so they lowered the almost used in the oil. So anyone not running the correct oil will damage your engine that is Direct Injection
I have a 2019 SQ5 with 125000km wit a TTE810 pushing 750hp and never had issues . Oil changed ever 5000km with Motul 5w40 . Fantastic engine and like was mentioned in this video most problem with this engine are caused between the engine and the steering wheel 😂 . Great video keep up the good work 😉
Just curious why do you use 5W40 when the manual calls for 0W20?
Thank you for your service. The community values your opinion.
Hi, Great video and content. I've worked in F1 as a Materials Engineer for F1 ICE. What you showed on the piston was a fatigue failure, caused by the sharp edge on the piston crown where the valve undercut is. If this edge was smoothed or shot peened, this would eliminate the issue and failure from occurring.
Love your channel dude watching from Australia
Great video. Although I am happy that you don’t have too many 4.0TT (for instance CTGE) on the channel, since I own one… It would be great to see you go through that one in the same way, strengths and weaknesses.
Thanks for the constructive criticism. Dave seemed to be making it up as he went along.
Hats off to you bro. I watched Dave's video and wasn't entirely convinced, yes LSPI is there but then again💁
Great video. Enjoy to hear and learn from your engine analysis from a serviceability point of view 👍 much appreciated your sharing of knowledge to the Audi community (and Porsche 😊)
I'm on my 2nd B9/B9.5 S4. The engine/trans hates being cold. I always drive in sport just to keep the RPM in the 3k range. You can feel the car get upset when you ask for power down low....especially when cold. However in regular D mode the trans wants to keep the car in the lowest RPM as possible. Just drive it easy in sport or manually shift to keep RPM's up and boost pressure low until the car is up to temp.
I put a TCU tune on my old S3 I owned just because it always wanted to shift to high gear immediately. Wasnt even in too tuning but shifting strategy made me hate that car till I tuned the TCU. I didnt touch any other part of the car lol.
@@kevinc7632 Yea trans tunes really wake them up
The low-speed pre-ignition is absolutely the cause. This happens in other makes of engines here in the USA when people use the wrong oil in them. It's not just a specific Audi piston issue. It's an oil use problem. Here in the USA we see it in NA DI engines, not just forced induction.
Very interesting you run and recommend 5w 40 I will give it a go 👍
I do the same. Audi 'recommend', a 5W30 in my DNWA RS3, but over here in Australia where it gets pretty hot in summer, there is better engine protection with a 5W40 at the cost of perhaps a very very marginal degree of engine efficiency from a fuel perspective.
This is great. I watched that video from Dave some time ago and at the time I was kind of questioning the logic behind his explanation. LSPI? I kind of understand that this might be the case if there was a failing injector that was bleeding in more fuel than it was supposed to leading to cylinder wall washing and then detonation in the ring lands. I am more inclined to agree with your assessment as to what caused the piston to fail given the physical damage that seemed to have been occurring over time before that section of piston gave way. Pretty clear to me that the piston has a weak spot as you showed.
I think the pre ignition issue could have been caused by low octane fuel free igniting under compression. ISO Octane and heptane is a good read
Good to know the EA839 is a solid platform. Currently driving a b8.5 Allroad, love the car, but am eventually planning to upgrade to a c8 A6 Allroad in the future. It's proven difficult to find much information on these cars since not many people have them here in the states. I'd get something other than the Allroad, but it's either that or spend $100k+ on an RS6, which I don't have lol. No other estate cars were offered here unfortunately.
what about the later versions of oem pistons looks like, they definitely not strong as the forged ones, but nice to see how they are compare to the early one
Hate how Dave's video glosses over the fact they found a rocker arm pin when they pulled the oil sump. You can also see it in the scene you shared
It is quite strange that the pre ignition happens between the rings. That area is cold compared to combustion chamber and the cold is not qood fot the detonation to happen...
the pre-ignition i experienced when cylinder 6 piston cracked in my 2018 b9 s5 was audible and it was always when IAT's were the highest. never pushed it cold
Excellent video & great explanation in your point of view on the LSPI issue.
Thanks again this GOOD video/TH-cam! Any experience about Audi Diesel engines? Our Q5 diesel Audi, oil consumption was quite high levell. Now all is new in the engine block and Audi warranty was GOOD in this case
I would agree with you on the weak design of the piston, and it seams the big ends are worn also.
Cool video once again! Can you make a video about the 2.0 tdi engines? I’ve watched a lot of your videos, also about all the 3.0 TDI’s & all the S/RS’s, but i haven’t seen (many) on the 2.0 TDI’s. I have a CAH 2.0 TDI and would love to see a video about one of those, or similar engine code. Keep up the good work, you are very knowlidgeable!
Normally the detononation is not happening on gold parts of the cumpustion chamber like the pistor ring area. It is happening in the hot spots. And the non misted fuel will not change this. It will just make more CO and HC emissions entering to the cat...
The RS3 5-banger is the best from Audi reliability and power pound 4 pound, next I would say is the S3 4 cylinder is more reliable then the S4 or RS4 engine.
I tend to think that the B8 & 8.5 S4 Supercharged V6 was a better choice for both performance and longevity. I’d like to hear what VAG Technic thinks about this subject, as they fix the broken examples…
You would be surprised in the UK how many young drivers show off by pushing there cars turbo or non turbo within 1 minute of the engine being started. It's a case of you don't know what you don't know.
I don't even put my 1.8T audi above 2k rpm until coolant is showing 90 degrees as a rule. Even when the engine is warmed up I try to not use my turbo and go above 2.5rpm unless necessary.
Great video and in depth chat about these engines. I would love to know the weight difference between the OEM and forged piston and the thickness differences in areas of the piston.
Thumbs up, watching from London.
lol dave probably has a playlist full of videos with him talking...
plays it all night to fall asleep...
As always very informative. From 13:00 , do you imply that it's better to kick it into sport (rather than staying in Drive and mashing the throttle) if you want to drive it 'sporty' ?
I'm glad I always wait until my oil is 80 degrees plus before pushing on 😇
Thanks for the time you put into making these videos...assuming you make some after doing your days work...unlessyour single, you must have a very patience partner waiting for you at home
Nikasil is the lining on the cylinder wall. The block is aluminium. What he meant is that if the Nikasil coating is damaged the only repair is to bore it out and sleeve the hole with a cast iron sleeve.
Nikasil lined bores are very sensitive and they cannot be recoated.
Never ever use oil out of spec on nikasil engines.
Nikasil is magnetic ?
The official Audi pdf about the EA839 says the cylinders are aluminum with 1.5mm GJL (iron) inserts. I doubt they use Nikasil because these days they plasma coat the cylinders instead using something like sumebore. If I remember correctly this is mentioned in the pdf for the rs3 engine for instance.
As an avid Audi owner and enthusiast, I understand how critical good quality oil is in our cars and how regular changes are literally life-saving for our engines. But, no oil or maintenance interval will safeguard you against faulty components. If Audi put weak pistons in their cars or poorly designed rocker arms, or, poor cylinder walls (V10 problems, remember those?) there is nothing you can do, unless you replace those parts. If the manufacturer screws up, you will pay the price eventually.
DI engines are very sensitive to oil spec and quality, GM had to reformulate the oil spec across Europe to lessen the LSPI warranty problems.
Just tore down an E839, has the exact same piston failure on cyl 4 at the wrist pin. Basically identical damage to Dave's video.
Done like another 3-4 since 😀 what do you think is the problem ?
Amazing content as per usual 😊.
Thanks 👍🏻
Another detailed video, thank you 🙏
I have a B8.5 S5 and I really want to upgrade to the B9. But my fear of the turbo engine scares me away 😢
Love your videos, thanks for posting!
What brand are your engine lift tables?
We have a AGA Tools table that looks to be almost twice the size of what you guys use.
I'd be interested in a smaller table such as yours. Any info / links would be appreciated!!!
Keep up the great work / content!!!
"the motor oil geek "talks about that preignition because too much calcium in oil that causes it, so for DI engines must be used oils with low calcium:th-cam.com/video/39vt92txuAk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2A_QrjCt5TcEeReJ
American oil standards are very general... SP is the spec that combats LSPI. Euro cars in the states still spec the same oil specified by the manufacturer...VW 508.00/509.00, 504.00 / 507.00....
Great video! I agree with you 100% on all points discussed. One question I do have though is, from a a fuelling perspective, for those of us running E85, or a flex-fuel tune with an ethanol blend - of say E40 upwards as an example, my belief is that this would significant reduce the likelihood of LSPI, and thus a failed piston. Yes there is definitely a design flaw on the piston, but if the chances of LSPI can be greatly reduced via a different fuel type, that has to be a good thing, right? Interested to hear your thoughts on this! :) Cheers
Great video as always, the guy videoing the s5 piston condition has no idea about skin protection 😮😮
i find it hard to believe that you can get an explosion in the very limited space in the ring lands and space between the bore and piston. the amount of quenching of heat from the piston and bore would make the area less susceptible to detonation. also, the volume of this potential detonation is minuscule.
All that thinking and you could not even bother to google a picture of LSPI damage? Really? Your special.
@@tv321123 as i said, my statement refers to the explanation given on Dave's auto center video.
It's well known here in Germany. An Audi constructor had redesigned the oil control rings incorrectly. This meant that the 5W-30 water-based oil, which is prone to coking, no longer allowed the rings to spread in the ring pockets, which were too small. The result is very high oil consumption and wear.
What Oil should then be used?! Audi has revised it to 0W/30 now which is even more thin
@@danielfl.9347
Of course, if you have a particulate filter from the end of 2018, you have to be careful about which cleaning oil you can use. 5W-30 may be the fixed interval oil for you.
I know that the Siberian 0W-30 or 0W-20 oil is even worse. The engine in my friend's 1.5 also sounds like a sack of nuts. Of course, this is also because it has already done 25,000 km.
Don't be fooled by these water-based oils, which only offer advantages for short journeys and quick cold start oiling. But on hot motorway stretches, on US highways, stages, these oils tend to burn. Of course we don't need thick oil like in the GT or 24-hour race 10W-60 or 20W-60.
But in my 1.8 TSI, fully synthetic 5W-40, which I change every 10,000 km, is the best choice for me.
&, the manufacturer's oil specification is only the minimum quality & not the highest. It is wrong that longlife oils with the long flexible change interval are described as high quality & fixed interval 5W-40 as inferior quality.
water based oil?
@@alexstromberg7696 Only in terms of viscosity it is comparable to water.
You can see it very clearly when changing it, it runs out like water. Sewing machine oil is no different.
@@marcusk4152 Hmm I use 0W/30 in my twincharged TSI engine (supercharger and turbocharger) and change every 7-8000km.
No Oil burning.
But I would consider going up to 0W/40, but the problem is then the timing chain
Nice RS6 V10 in the background, sepang blue if i am not mistaken, as a RS6 C6 Owner myself i am looking forward to the video and your opinion on the RS6 C6 Platform.
A good explanation of 'lugging' the engine and the effects it has. He also describes trying to build boost at low rpm, as if you are on a 2 step in a drag car. Yes, idiots do stupid things. These engines are very refined and not very tolerable to abuse of this nature. They are designed to be fuel efficient and put out bags of horsepower out of the factory. If you want more, maybe you are driving the wrong car?
Dave’s an absolute weapon wouldn’t listen to him too much 😂, keep up the good work 👌🏻
I will guess, a combination of:
always low octane/ bad fuel;
dirty injectors;
poor quality or wrong viscosity oil;
extended oil changes;
short-tripping;
always hammering it when it's still cold;
grandma fuel-saving type driving in low rpms;
lugging.
Great one once again 😬
30 years ago was blowing ring lands out of 1.6 cvh engines with turbos😂😂....the normaly aspirated ones never realy killed,even at max rpm up hills on motorway..used to buy standard ,xr2 pistoms as cheap and get an old boy to machine tops flat and go.....didnt seem to fare anyworse than the correct Ford turbo pistons...happy days......
Are you saying that if we want to drive the car “sporty”, we should keep the RPMs over 3,000? Seems like we should use the manual shifters since even in dynamic drive mode the car is happy to stay below 3,000 rpm.
My opinion 😀 from 2000rpm that’s low
FYI - Those holes are not for washing the cylinder down with oil. They are for oil returning from the oil control/scrapper ring.
Think about it... they have an upper and lower ring in the scrapper. No way for oil to escape. The upper 2 rings are for compression, and typically do not control oil but can act as back-up for the oil control rings.
What’s with all the EA839 engine codes DECA, DCAB, DGRC etc etc. I think the last letter is the power output? Anyone know exactly, would be good to know what parts are interchangeable like heads & block etc. cheers
just small differences, they change the engine code for every change, so if they change the injectors for a new model year it will get a new code.
@@alexstromberg7696 apparently some have different blocks. Some have bellhousing bolt patterns to suit ZF 8HP & others to suit a PDK. I’ve got a DCAB Cayenne that needs a replacement engine, but they’re hard to find. Seems as though the RS4/5 might be the only other suitable ‘short’ engine 🤷♂️
@@jayb7036 yeah sometimes they can be very different, but just for example I think the 2.0 tdi has no joke 200 different engine codes
Hallo! I have a 4.2l B8 S5 manual, I just had the resonators removed from my car to get more noise and i started driving in the lower rpm range for a while, to not disturb my neighbours so to speak. Is this the reason i smell fuel from time to time? especially if i go to the shops 3 miles away and back? Normally when i drive further than that i always make sure to at least hit 3.5-4k rpm but not when going to the shops. What would you recommend? Love the channel as always
Leave it idling first 30-40 seconds than gently drive until warm 👍
@@VAGTechnicthank you, been doing that since i got the car, so happy to know i dont have to change style. One last question. Do i need to take the ecu for a tune after just removing the resonators and middle muffler? I still have the 2 cats and 2 rear mufflers as stock and intend on keeping them like that
He's in Utah. Much colder winter temperatures than the UK.
😂😂 i trust you more. he's definitely a ford guy.
White BMW in the back ...😅 😊
That guy Dave. Make me laugh.
Don’t forged pistons risk scoring the cylinder bore?
I love your channel but dont argue with Americans they always think they are right even when they are wrong. ❤
Can the light spot be a reason for a non-right working injector? So the combustion is not ideal and LSPI knocks the piston until it breaks at the weakest point.
I think a lot of engines died because injectors don't work.
Do you check them too?
My B9 s5 has 150k miles. Should I be using the 0w20 oil or the 5w40 mentioned in the video?
Have the same question.
They run 5w40 I switched my wife’s 2020 s5 to 0w30 specd for the rs5 and the car seems happy on that, slight upgrade without going way out of spec to double the viscosity but that’s just my opinion.
So you use 5w40 even on 0w20 specced engines?
Yes
I own a Q5 TFSIe which, obviously, uses 0W20 oil.
Do you recommend to go with 5W30/5W40?
Thank you.
What do you think of the pistons 034 has on their website for the B9?
Never tried them , but you can buy any other after market for half price 💁♂️
@ Thats good to know! Thanks for the reply!
I agree Man just the thought of 0w20 inside a turbo charged engine is just crazy. Wtf
Obviously the manufacturer doesnt have the engine longetivity in mind when theu sell this. Tell me im wrong.
The only purpose of prescribing 0w20 is to bring the engine operating friction down to IMPROVE FUEL EVONOMY THATS IT. 0w20 will not protect that engine from eating itself up no way man. No way.
I like 0w40 5W40 in a thrbocharged engine because when that engine heats up that 0w20 becomea even thinner even softer runnier how will it protect that bearings hoow. Come on.
Crazy
I know this is a bit off topic, my 2014 Mercedes M276 naturally aspirated with 142k miles has low/normal oil pressure solenoid. in low mode It has NO piston squirter action, only above 3500 RPM do they come on, so for me that means never. However, unplugging solenoid allows normal pressure so piston squirters come on much sooner around 2000RPM. A few people are saying normal pressure produces too much tension on chains and wears center support gear/sprocket with soft brass bushing. Engine temps and oil temps are noticeably cooler unplugged in scan data, but without better information, I run plugged in. Any thoughts on this?
Currently have a 2020 SQ5 3.0T petrol w/40k+ kms still w/new warranty till Oct2024 and extended CPO warrany for another 2yrs/160k kms.Audi dealership is very "by-the-book" where I acquired it from.I've read and hear mix answers regarding 0w20 (I agree w/your opinion that this is 'water') vs 5w40. Regardless of warranty, is it truly safe to use 5w40? Any way I can tell that the engine in my vehicle have the upgraded revised version of the rocker arms?
the best
One thing that isn't talked about is the engine cooling, engine bay temps etc. I'm not an expert on these cars but the engine looks really cramped and can imagine the bay temps get really high + high intake temps. There is something with the engine design as they don't make power like a daza which is smaller but reponds much better.
Watching further into your video and youve shown the hot v design. This sort of backs my point about heat being an issue.
Hot turbo design is much better for temps because the intake is lower and no exhaust is heating it up like when it’s opposite . Heat always goes up
I'm just curious. Is there any particular reason, why you are going with Wössner and not with JE, Italianrp etc. ?
Can’t get them
Isn't there oils with API SN Plus for LPSI? Bmw recommends them - didn't find that for Audi.
you shouldn't care for API ratings, go by what BMW or any other euro car maker recomends, a lot better than API
@@alexstromberg7696 Bmw s recommendations are thinner and thinner with passing days. I would stay away from it.
is that the same engine for the a6 tfsi55?
I’ve a S4 b9 and a problem with a ticking noise from the driver's side (Europe), replaced the HPFP and rocker arms didnt solve the problem, what can it be?
too
It’s frustrating when manufacturers hide the truth about design issues. There are people in Ingolstadt who could shine a light on this but would be shot if they came clean on their screw ups.
I've been a technician for 30 years with an associates degree in Automotive. So what David saying is interesting because if it was a thick oil issue and one of affected all six cylinders. I quit following day because he confusing and a little far-fetched he could be very persuasive and leave them down a very dangerous course with his methodology
looking upgrade from my old c6 2.0 tfsi gen 1 engine and these videos about 3.0 platform looks scary any one can give advise or recommendation wich engine and gearbox realible from 2018-19 to avoid money pit thanks in advance ( ps most interested in a6 c8 model )
Do you prefer the b9 engine over the supercharged?
Yes
These is a difference between theory and practice. Dave is a decent mechanic, but he is not an engineer.
Gen z definitely takes off right after starting. Sounds like a language and culture misinterpretation. I get what he’s saying, but
Interesting comment about using 5w 40
I’ve a 2013 2.0ltr tdi superb since 2 year old
Always changed oil at 10k using Quantum 5w 30 longlife 3
I’ve often wondered about using using 5w 40
Any thoughts anyone
You'll be good with 5w-30 in normal use diesel. I think he meant 5w-40 mostly for petrol engines, since those can see higher oil temperatures than diesel engines.
Hello to the boss of vag tech. Hi, I am your subscriber and an avid follower of your channel. I am looking for the most reliable A6. Petrol or diesel. Could you please suggest the best model/engine to go for. Your reply will be much appreciated. Thank you.
every car will be reliable as long as previous owner did proper maitenance
He is looking for the most robust & efficient maintainable engine causing low maintenance effort and cost.
And I think thats still a 2.0 TDI or 2.0 TFSI.
are B9.5 same?
Facelift have upgraded parts
I like Dave, but he's wrong! I've had 2 CAEB 2.0tfsi that at their worst were sucking down 1L of oil every 250-300 miles. If Dave's explanation was valid, I'd have easily blown multiple pistons!!
034's take on it is better in theroy, but it's still not a perfect solution, as I would do full pulls (2000-redline) for tuning at 28-35psi. If theirs was true, again, I'd have blown many pistons!
I think it's a combo of both actually. The CAEB oil consumption issue is well known and cured by new pistons/rings. He mentioned that they did a mid-line revision of the pistons... hmmmm. Sounds like they have another CAEB drama on their hands. They cheaped out on the pistons and rings and it is a weak link. They moved to 0w-10 oil, that is too thin and allowing hot spots to form and you get oil fed detonation!
This is VAG simply going cheap again with a poor design and the customers will pay for it again. In the US, VAG ended up paying millions for the CAEB oil consumption issue! When cars are re-engineered by the bean counters, you get this! They avoided drama in the EU, but it was still an issue!
Good reason to avoid early B9 in a few years after their Leases run out!
Cheers!!!