RV Water Damage Repair Part 2 - Rust Reform
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I will be applying some rust reformer and cutting some of the new panels. Always make sure to cover everything you do not want to get paint on. Spray paint will travel a significant distance and coat undesired surfaces. Enjoy the video.
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with the foam its much easier if you time it right and smooth it out before it dries completely, i hated cutting that shit. thanks for the video
Use a rotor with a spindle tip runs along the window frame for a perfect cut every time. Have to take the window out of course. It's good to reseal them anyway
My favourite tool for trimming weird stuff is an oscillating tool 😏 Door frames, flooring, it's a huge blast to use it and solve pesky problems.
Oh my god this helped so much.
Jim, thanks for the video, love the backdrop.
I do the cardboard thing as well. if I started writing down numbers and crunching math I get a lil frustrated, it's a good tip for small awkward areas, you can also slip that cardboard behind an odd angle and notch the angle to transfer onto your workpiece. I wish I could be at this point in my project lol
My C is Winnebago 2007 Access. Planning on getting into it to see if built is same as bunk over.
Simple explanation. Thank you
What would you use for a panel against the exterior siding before the foam? Mine was really saturated so it all had to come out. Just the framing and inside of exterior panel now on inside of the RV. Do I need something to glue to exterior panel in the inside before I put the foam in or can I glue foam straight to exterior wall panel?
Thankyou These Have Been soooo helpful ! 👏🏻🚌
Love it!!!!
Really need to use a construction grade adhesive. Homeowner stuff just isn't strong enough. Also I would have tooken off the outside siding to get to the other side of the metal framing. Just my 2 cents worth. :_)
In part 1 of water damage repair you mentioned you would tell us what works better than clear coat and chalk to stop water leaks. Was it the stop gap or something else?
I mentioned in the update part 4. Turns out it was just tons of Flex Seal. I used the spray for the windows and the roof coating for the roof and it's still not leaking. Jim
Cool video but just curious, why didn't you pop that window out so, 1, your plywood goes under the window frame and, 2, the window needed to come out anyway to be cleaned and resealed.
I thought I mentioned it in the video but every single screw that I tried to pull out ended up breaking or stripping. I really thought I might break the window if I tried to drill out every screw. I did not want the hassle of trying to locate a replacement. That whole overhead cab probably needs to be torn apart and rebuilt outside and in but that was all the work I was willing to do on it at the time and I just wanted to share it with everybody. You are correct of course. I might get to it eventually when I do other sections. Thanks for the question happy camping. Jim
You should’ve removed the plastic trim that’s around the window
I tried. All the screws were stripped and brittle. I did not want to risk breaking the window and trying to find a replacement so I opted to go around it. I have another video where I remodeled the rear bedroom and I was able to remove the entire window to reseal it and use the window trim. On a low budget repair like this one sometimes you just have to work with what you have. Thank you for the comments and happy camping.
Very Very Well done
Thank You Very Much
Michael Fruchter sorry, I just watched several of your videos in a row. You might have mentioned that fact but I missed it. Now it makes sense. Good videos.
Thanks for this great video! What kind of paneling would you use in a bathroom
What if u have a wood frame?
If the wood is rotted it will need to be replaced. Jim
I love this video series! So helpful. My only question so far is why did you stop the demolition where you did? The wood you left still seemed really rotted.
Thank you for the question. The wood that I left is glued to the outer fiberglass and was not structural or moldy. I did not want to remove the outer fiberglass for this repair as it would have opened a whole different can of worms so to speak. The repair is now water tight and looking great so that will do for now. Someday I will have to do extensive outer repairs but not this summer. Thank you for the comment and happy camping. Jim
I agree, you do not want to remove anything you don't have to. Especially where it's attached to the outer fiberglass. Even removing the foam block insulation can be risky.
What did you use to stop the leak I see you repaired the damage but I didn’t see the repair of the leak
I think I say in part 4. But it actually ended up being Flex Seal around the window. When I did the back bedroom I took out the window and redid the seal which is what I would recommend.
Looks just like what I need to do for my camper, my only question is.. What about the water damaged the wood between the skin and insulation? It looked water damaged too. Is it alright?
Yeah that's a hack job that liquid nail isn't going to hold against rotted water damaged wood
Ideally you would want to remove the outer skin and replace all of the water damaged material. But really my budget was just about zero and we're about to hit the road so I had to seal it up and hope for the best. Structurally it has a metal frame so I wasn't worried about the structure holding up. It's been about 5 years and it's still working great with no issues or leaks. It's probably also important to note that I didn't notice any mold while I was in there except for a small spot on the plywood which I replaced.
I think I mentioned it in the video but my budget was very low and we had to get on the road. Ideally you would remove the outer skin and replace all damaged wood but that just wasn't in the cards for us. It's been about 5 years and it's holding up great with no leaks but I felt like it was worth sharing anyway.
That cut wasn't bad at all..
Yeah it was as close as I could get it. It would have been nice if I could have removed the trim then it would have covered perfectly. But rounded Corners have always been tricky for me.
My "C" has the entertainment center instead of bunk. Is the build the same on both?
I'm afraid I can't say. If you're planning to do remodel you may just have to start digging in there to see what's going on. Sorry I can't be more help but with all the manufacturers in different styles it's impossible for me to say.
what type of paneling did you use?
Home Depot wall panels back near the plywood section. Around $20 bucks a piece.
Where did you get the paneling?
Home depot. Cheap thin decorative wall panels.
wrong!, the window needed to be resealed and take out, cutting corners don't fix the problem
You are absolutely correct. I mentioned this in the video. The windows should be removed and resealed. However, I was afraid I would break the glass if I had to drill all the stripped and rusted screws. I sealed the outside of the RV and repaired the old water damage that occurred before I bought the RV. It has been two years with no leaks and the repair is holding. You are correct but for my purposes this worked well and I wanted to share the process. Thank you for the comment and happy camping. Jim
That paper trick is excelent. I do construction for a living and that is my cheat but it gives me the best& fastest fit.