That is so much good looking Stilo, wish mine was like that. I replaced everything under the sun on my Stilo to try to get rid of vibrations in cabin, but no luck I changed alternators twice ( booth time used ) i own Fiat STilo for 17 years, for 22 year old car i maintain it best as i can. No error codes trying to fit most of new parts, but sometimes the parts are only option.
@@alfaromeonoproblem It is possible from above on 156. You have to remove fuel filter, disconnect the starter's cables, etc. which are in way, and after 3 strokes you can take it out. :D I replaced the alternator yesterday this way, it was very nerve-racking job.
@@alfaromeonoproblem my mechanic told me that It happens very often that the pully cannot be detached. He try but after several tentavies, change both.
Hi great video, thank you!! I have a question however, I have a more squeaky cyclical kind of noise and thought it might be alternator but not 100% sure, could also be a pulley, in your opinion could this noise still be alternator pulley? Cheers
Service the alternator and especially the idler pulley. It ruins the timing belt tensioner. One time he threw off a belt, then there was a noise and he had made a brand new tensioner again. I replaced the roller with INA and no more problem. The car is Alfa SW 156 1.9 115, 2005
Thank you so much to all who replied for your input/suggestions!! I'm actually going to take a look at this today as I am worried it will affect timing belt integrity... After seeing this and reading your comments will not be driving it now until it's sorted...👍👍
I just found out I have the same problem in my Stilo! But it doesn't happen all the time. Only when there is significant electrical load, like the glow plugs after I start cold engine. Does that still mean the pulley is toasted? 😲
Hey Bruno I have an update for you. It turned out it wasn't the alternator pulley. It was the tensioner itself which seized up. I could barely move it to take the belt off! Not the pulley on it, but the part when the spring is. It was squeaking badly and some rusty powder came out of there. I think salty winters did that, as I live in cold climate, and my Stilo lacks the plastic covers under the engine bay additionally. The tensioner was making noise and jumped only at big electrical load (rear window defroster with blower on high at least), at idle it was smooth. Also when the AC was on it didn't do it, before the cooling fan kicked in. Maybe it will be helpful for your future diagnoses. Cheers ☺
@@alfaromeonoproblem I'm on day 3 of this operation and managed to finally remove the bolts from alternator. There's simply no access to remove the upper bolt and even lower one is almost inaccessible. One can't remove it from above so I'm gonna try to take it from under. What a mess of a job. It's the second time this alternator is coming out. I should just buy a new one when timing belt was being done. The cost of pulley, bearings and voltage regulator is same as a reman unit, no savings to be had.
@@alfaromeonoproblem Day 4, it is done finally. I rebuilt the regulator behind the engine. There's no space to pull it out up top unless I remove a lot of gear and engine mounts. Terrible compromise, but now it works somewhat better. Idle is from 12,8 unloaded to 13,8V unloaded. Heavy loads still bring it down to 12,5V, so I think it's done. AC on, Xeon lights on (only 35W each), idle and fan on mid is barely making 13V. Performance is still lacking, like alternator is only 50A or so instead of 120A no matter the rpm. Maybe diodes are burned or some other issue ? Do you imagine this is already once replaced unit ? Car has 244kkm. Bearings sound and feel ok, so I have doubts, this is same age as car. Thanks for the content and this channel. Really liked your video of free fixing clutch slave cylinder. Helped a lot on mine, it was rusted solid tho. I used the pressure of pedal (wooden plank against seat that you push forward and lock) to force cylinder as much out as I could and put it under load and lightly hammer on it and it slid out. I had very weird issue that pedal would become spongey after a week of driving. Cylinder was corroded with piston and rubber rings were scraping air into the fluid. Replaced with new (12€) and it works flawlessly now. No point in rebuilding it as wear is on the walls too. If you noticed, the cylinder is fixed but the angle of the rod changes and this side-loads the cylinder. I will put away money for new alternator and service. While I see this is doable, it is just back breaking job... great exercise tho. Thanks once again !
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That is so much good looking Stilo, wish mine was like that. I replaced everything under the sun on my Stilo to try to get rid of vibrations in cabin,
but no luck
I changed alternators twice ( booth time used ) i own Fiat STilo for 17 years, for 22 year old car i maintain it best as i can. No error codes trying to fit most of new parts, but sometimes the parts are only option.
Hi great video I changed the alternator pulley on my 156 recently bought the tool from ebay
Haha I just change mine alternator yesterday on Alfa 156 1.9jtd 8v. It is possible to do it from above but a hell of a job
Hello. I myself cannot do it from above, maybe someone can
It's impossible to do it on a Stilo. There's not that much place as in Alfas.
@@alfaromeonoproblem if its 120A alternator then 2 people are necessary but 105A is for one guy.
I take it out from above on Lancia Lybra, not very hard, there is enough space and no need to move engine
@@alfaromeonoproblem It is possible from above on 156. You have to remove fuel filter, disconnect the starter's cables, etc. which are in way, and after 3 strokes you can take it out. :D I replaced the alternator yesterday this way, it was very nerve-racking job.
as always, great video
Thanks for watching
thank you very much....
Thank you for watching
Where did you get special tool for opening the pulley and what size ?
Hello. Only one size for most cars. Any store that sells tools for workshops, and also sometimes even the part stores
Changed on both JTD in our family. In my dad's car during time the pully become welded to the alternator so changed both
Very nice, thanks for sharing your experience
@@alfaromeonoproblem my mechanic told me that It happens very often that the pully cannot be detached. He try but after several tentavies, change both.
@luigigargiulo5368 here in Portugal we have no corrosion, so that can be it
Hi great video, thank you!! I have a question however, I have a more squeaky cyclical kind of noise and thought it might be alternator but not 100% sure, could also be a pulley, in your opinion could this noise still be alternator pulley? Cheers
Hello. That can be a crooked tensioner or pulley somewhere.
Take off the belt and spin all the pulleys by hand you could possibly isolate the bad one.
Service the alternator and especially the idler pulley. It ruins the timing belt tensioner. One time he threw off a belt, then there was a noise and he had made a brand new tensioner again. I replaced the roller with INA and no more problem. The car is Alfa SW 156 1.9 115, 2005
Thank you so much to all who replied for your input/suggestions!! I'm actually going to take a look at this today as I am worried it will affect timing belt integrity... After seeing this and reading your comments will not be driving it now until it's sorted...👍👍
@rocknrolla9630 thanks for sharing
I just found out I have the same problem in my Stilo! But it doesn't happen all the time. Only when there is significant electrical load, like the glow plugs after I start cold engine. Does that still mean the pulley is toasted? 😲
Hello. Pull the belt out and test the pulley before replacing
Hey Bruno I have an update for you. It turned out it wasn't the alternator pulley. It was the tensioner itself which seized up. I could barely move it to take the belt off! Not the pulley on it, but the part when the spring is. It was squeaking badly and some rusty powder came out of there. I think salty winters did that, as I live in cold climate, and my Stilo lacks the plastic covers under the engine bay additionally. The tensioner was making noise and jumped only at big electrical load (rear window defroster with blower on high at least), at idle it was smooth. Also when the AC was on it didn't do it, before the cooling fan kicked in. Maybe it will be helpful for your future diagnoses. Cheers ☺
Hello. I did a video with that. The INA tensioner does that a lot. Must be Dayco only
Boas qual o canal em português? Ou tens pagina de insta?
Olá. Tenho ambos.
youtube.com/@brunocrespo?si=twXoCK1gh73jzFbr
Bonjour la procédure et il pareille pour la fiat bravo 2 1.9 . Merci
Hello. Yes
Merci beaucoup
Boas. Na cambota o recomendado é 20/25 Nm no aperto?
Na polie de cambota? Sim.
Tenho o canal em português se preferir
This looks so tedious and annoying that I'd probably rather take out the whole engine 😂
Thanks for watching the video
This is just impossible job if you don't have a car lift.
Hello. But notice that I did it with no car lift.
In fact all of my videos are without car lifts.
@@alfaromeonoproblem I'm on day 3 of this operation and managed to finally remove the bolts from alternator. There's simply no access to remove the upper bolt and even lower one is almost inaccessible. One can't remove it from above so I'm gonna try to take it from under. What a mess of a job. It's the second time this alternator is coming out. I should just buy a new one when timing belt was being done. The cost of pulley, bearings and voltage regulator is same as a reman unit, no savings to be had.
@LastSlovenian yes, I agree. And I said the same often, better to just replace for a new one to justify the labor
@@alfaromeonoproblem Day 4, it is done finally. I rebuilt the regulator behind the engine. There's no space to pull it out up top unless I remove a lot of gear and engine mounts. Terrible compromise, but now it works somewhat better. Idle is from 12,8 unloaded to 13,8V unloaded. Heavy loads still bring it down to 12,5V, so I think it's done. AC on, Xeon lights on (only 35W each), idle and fan on mid is barely making 13V. Performance is still lacking, like alternator is only 50A or so instead of 120A no matter the rpm. Maybe diodes are burned or some other issue ? Do you imagine this is already once replaced unit ? Car has 244kkm. Bearings sound and feel ok, so I have doubts, this is same age as car. Thanks for the content and this channel. Really liked your video of free fixing clutch slave cylinder. Helped a lot on mine, it was rusted solid tho. I used the pressure of pedal (wooden plank against seat that you push forward and lock) to force cylinder as much out as I could and put it under load and lightly hammer on it and it slid out. I had very weird issue that pedal would become spongey after a week of driving. Cylinder was corroded with piston and rubber rings were scraping air into the fluid. Replaced with new (12€) and it works flawlessly now. No point in rebuilding it as wear is on the walls too. If you noticed, the cylinder is fixed but the angle of the rod changes and this side-loads the cylinder.
I will put away money for new alternator and service. While I see this is doable, it is just back breaking job... great exercise tho. Thanks once again !
@LastSlovenian that charge is too low.. 13.20 is the bear minimum. 13.70 to 14.20 is the ideal. Load or no load
That's some stupid engineering from Fiat
It's what happens when you take an engine designed for longitudinal RWD use, and turn it 90 degrees for FWD.
How come?
I assume he meant access to the alternator is appalling.
It is not like the alternator is a service item. It can last a few hundred thousand km.
@@DashCamSerbia In my experience about 90,000 mls (140,000km) is average.