Very neat idea, and oh so close to working flawlessly. I for one would be happy for more episodes even on a 'failed' project - your quality explanation of your often improper, corner cutting, machining methods and decision making process I find quite informative. You sometimes do things in ways I wouldn't, quite possibly wouldn't even consider and that alternative perspective can be great to have in your head.
Hi Paul. Wow! An impressive design, amount of work and attention to detail in that project. Credit to you. I'm absolutely certain that you will solve the issue and end up with a fabulously useful piece of kit. Regards Mark in the UK
Very good,Paul. I'm really looking forward to the final sorted version. I agree with your thinking of setting the drill once in a collet or chuck rather than buggering about with devices that require the drill be rotated and reset 180°.
Hi Paul, I have been looking forward to this and it will be good to see the next stage and how you overcome the current issues. I like your solution for cutting the curved slot on the base pale and have noted it for future projects. I also liked the demonstration of the usefulness odd leg callipers.
Hi Tony, I trust you are still in good health. I’ve got loads of tricks up my sleeves regarding quick(dirty) fixes for lack of equipment, problem is I’m begining to forget them..
Hi I Paul, yes I am. you could to do what other creative people do and keep a notebook/ sketchbook to remind you of those ideas. Looking forward to seeing the next one.
You are nearly there! I used a drill sharpener probably 40 years ago, and I wish I had taken more notice. I think your face cam needs retract the drill more quickly. You really need to form the cam by dividing head or rotary table by cutting axial cuts to known depths, so that the cutting edge is located accurately in the same place on both sides of the drill. I look forward to Version2!
Wow, what a great mechanism. I appreciate that you showed much of the layout especially. I can’t wait to see mk2. That’s some really cool work you did here.
@31:15 The rotation "zero" set point should be before the wheel contact the cutting lip. The cam low point should coincide a few degrees before touching the cutting lip. Then as the cam cause the drill bit to extend, it will grind the flank.
Thanks, it’s not exactly an invention "there’s nothing new in engineering”, it’s more of a variation of a theme. But, I will keep trying. I know this cos my wife say’s I’m very trying. Regards
Hello from Aus. The chisel edge angle is controlled by the amount of clearance ground on the drill. I would reduce the drill stick out from the collet and reduce the edge height above center of the wheel. The correct andge is about 15 deg from perpendicular. BC
I have tried many variations of cam and timing the version shown, produced the best result. The Mk2 should address the issues you mention, number one getting the point of rotation nearer to the drill tip. cheers.
Thnx for letting us learn from your mistakes. I sharpen most drills by hand and check them with a hand tool drill checker. That way I can make small adjustments for when I want to cut brass or stainless etc.
I think you need to tilt the whole assembly approximately 30° so the swivel motion is not "up and down" but more diagonally, like the swivel motion of your old drill sharpener. That ensures that it grinds the relief angle on the outer diameter of the drill, but not so much on the center of the drill. Of course you need to offset the "advance and retract cam" by the same angle to keep it in the same position as before.
see, there's your problem right there! Making proper plans! nothing ever comes good from that! What you make has to look like the plans! You cant just claim what you end up with was what your were planning all along! :)
Valiant effort. Hope you learned enough to come back to it loaded for bear. As an aside. I started using a cheap AliBaba Mister with synthetic fluid. Air pressure is about 35-40 psi and I tweak down on the lfuid feed so that it barely mists. Quality of Cut improved dramatically. I'm no longer recutting chips. And I can increase speeds and feeds dramatically too.
That's an interesting drill sharpening jig. The only thing that that's put me off making one is the fact that it needs an expensive collet to fit every drill size. There's also the small but not unsurmountable problem of the excessive web thickness which I'm sure could be corrected with a few tweaks to the geometry. Inspiring bit of kit though, and very quick to use because of not having to re-set the drill bit. Thank you.
Hi, thanks for watching, there were a great many issues with this device. I dismantled it and made another. The collets are a standard ER32 collet set. Useful for many projects as well as the milling machine. Cheers
I have an old ARCHDALE DRILL GRINDER which is very similar to the American 510 Oliver Drill Grinder. They have a very unique way of sharpening the drill. I'll have to post a vid on my channel of it running.
interesting video i really enjoyed it. it's the hard fought battles that we remember as well as the ones that make us great. keep thinking and trying, i am sure you will succeed and i will enjoy watching. thanks for sharing.
Am I recognizing it good? Is it sharpener based on Oliver of Adrian drill sharpening method. It is very interesting method. I wouldn't abandon this project. This sharpener almost works. It seems like the drill is moving in bit wrong way.
First off, I'd really liked your machine capabilites. Your speeds/feeds and tool choices used are good 👍. What country, where are you located? I'm in the USA. I've worked in the machinery field. I'm in the process to make a Lathe purchase soon. With the idea and hopeful to do hobby projects.
It appears that the drill should cam up and not rotate till you complete the first clearance angle, and then rotate as it cams back for the second clearance angle. The first clearance angle should only be as wide as the web. It sometimes appears that the device is trying to do this action backwards, or it may be my dislexic view of things. Who knows. An interesting approach to the natural hand grinding process. It has me buggered how a factory automates this action reliably. Very good device, looking forward to Mk.II and your solutions. Take care.
I have experimented with many different cams and timing the best was shown in the video. Making the drill sharpener the same way as the Breirley sharpener would be a great way to do it but, unfortunately a new patent prevents me from using a system like that, this is why I tried the method i did. Watch this space
@@Thesheddweller Annoying how people are protective of their ideas sometimes. If you didn’t film it you could live with the secret. I will be very interested in your next iteration. I too have the (blue) drill sharpening guide you have. I have modified it to hold the drills more securely and in a repeatable manner with a new quick release base to advance the entire guide assembly into the wheel and then use the standard advance mechanism to move the bit in the original fashion. The advantage of the quick release base is that I can take the entire guide out and fit a drill or rotate the drill 180, accurately, for the opposite land and refit it to the grinder in the same position, without having the wheel of death in my ear or near my fingers. Works a lot better but not perfect. Getting a prototype correct is half the battle. Take care.
@@carlhitchon1009 yes.. possibly, but if I make a prototype of something that is similar to someone elses process, then show everybody my plans, there is a chance,. a very small chance, that I could come a cropper and I can't afford that. I would have loved to have my tool cariage swing sideways like the Brierley drill sharpener ( one of my first drawings was a sideways movement action) but after checking the patents office drawing and its date I altered my plans. Regards
Hi Paul, I think you've done a brilliant job so far. Just remember that stuff in a spray can - It's not called WD-01. For the next time, could you explain more how you came up with the cam please? I was playing around with some graph paper, simulating the advance and rotation across the graph as if you peel a layer off & roll it across the page. But it needed a sideways kick for the point before settling back to a constant drop back down. Stay safe & well :)
The cam is easy….. I guessed. Well,.. I moved a large drill through the action I would make while grinding the drill by hand. How far forwards and how far down at the back. Then calculated what sort of angular change was required with a rotational input… well the rest is down to a bit of maths and, although it pains me to say it, a bit of add some just in case.
That was cleverly done. The Drill-Doctor works on the same mechanics, but, I gotta say, I like your steel version 100 times better. Your next version I am sure, you will have the cam's dialed in for your exacting desired features.. well done. I look forwards to the next design.
Used a drillsharpner that work after the same prinsiple, your problem lays in the profile on the cam. Mutch steeper climbe on the one I used and when the egde on the drillbit was cear the grinding wheel the cam just had a straight drop, the lobe had more the profile of a thoth on a sawblade
Wonderful video! I'm just curious if you tried other drill bits,and did you have the same results. I wonder if you could cut a relief on the flutes would the fixture work, never the less it appears to sharpen quite well. Thanks for sharing.
Hola, lo siento, me piden muchos idiomas diferentes en los subtítulos, es algo que no puedo hacer, porque la pantalla estará llena de texto y no podrás ver el video. gracias por ver, Saludos.
You almost had it, in fact you were right there, it just needed the finishing touch of web thinning to make it work ....nothing else........I hand grind all my drills, even the .5mm ones but for that I use a Wishbone type drill sharpener and anything under 4mm diam. I think you might have more luck with 4 facet drill grinding as there are only 4 flats to grind and they can be ground in a fixture or even something exotic like a Deckel SO D bit grinder.
Hi, thanks for your comments. These drills cut quite well but with the web being so big they need a good size pilot drill for them to do their work, so thats why its a fail. ;-)
@@Thesheddweller As I said, all you need to do is thin the web and it will be OK.....I thin the web on normally sharpened drills as most times the web is too thick anyway. I'm currently making a cutter grinder, similar to a Deckel D bit grinder, and I'll be using it to do 4 facet drill bit grinding as I think it will give better more consistent results without struggling to get the point concentric and equal angles......I learned to grind drills over 60 years ago as an apprentice buy I think the 4 facet method has a lot of merit.
@@gangleweed The four facet method is indeed a good method and that has been considered as an after thought for this version of my drill sharpener. Web thining is the norm with all drills over say 12 - 14mm but, I would rather try a bit harder and get the drill sharpener to get the process I’m after as good as possible before going through the web thining process. I had also tentitivly started plans to make a quick action web thining tool, but that is a while away at the moment. I’ve got a lot of work on to get finished. Regards
@@Thesheddweller Many years ago I read an article about drill grinding and also the 4 facet method but discounted it as just a quack way to sharpen a tool, but lately after thinking about the method it's obvious that if you have clearance behind a cutting edge it will cut......web thinning is just a secondary operation to offset the fact that the web thickness of the drill is to keep it from splitting down it's length but it's not practical to have it at the drill point.....I do web thinning from 2mm and upwards as a necessity for keeping the drill centralised during cutting.
That grind looks like something you can get ftom any number of grinders when things go wrong. Playing with the starting angle and drill projection might show the way to go. There is a book by Prof Hugel that goes into incredible detail about conic grind etc but it is a touch dry for me as the characterisations is little flat.😕 Edit, the height of your device relative to the wheel centre height is another consideration, as might be the small grinding wheel you are using. As the yanks would put it, just spitballing the problem.😉
Hi, spit balling was a large part of my testing process. I have tried flat siding, high and low wheel positions, I’ve even put jacks under various places. Using it as a four faceting system works well but, I still would prefer to have the drills sweep if possible, so I’ll stick at it.
@@Thesheddweller I think you have made an excellent first effort. Two avenues I would explore are: 1. reducing the lift of the cam that advances the drill towards the grindstone along its axis, and 2. 4-facet drill point grinding - this method deals very neatly with the web issue and gives much less tendency for the drill to "walk". Eagerly watching for your Mk2.
Я не совсем понял, что вы сказали. Вы сделали одну из этих точилок? Этот, который я сделал, работал не очень хорошо. Я показал это видео, чтобы объяснить, что пошло не так. С уважением
Wow. Complex machine. Perhaps try out a concept 1st - it the simple way - before making a professional tool. At least you know the concepts works and probably it is good enough as well. I made a drill sharpener for my 0.3 - 3 mm drills as these tend to go dull very quickly somehow. Found out one can make a 4 facet on a 0.5 mm and 1 mm drill as well. But it's a b**ch to align everything as the edges on these small drills are not as clearly defined as with the bigger drills and one needs magnifiers to see anything at all. The tool I created is just an add-on to a dremel and with a 1000-1500 grid sand paper disk (normal dremel grinding disk is just too rough for these sizes of drills) and a simple holder to keep the drills positioned. A lot of work to make, but just with standard tools. But after sharpening... they cut like hell, even through steel - for as long as they stay sharp that is, cutting through iron is really tough for these small sized drills.
Hi, yes I agree, the smaller they get the harder it is to sharpen them. Mind you, I did see a small drill holder made by a Russian guy that was triangular in shape with a small wheel in 2 corners the third corner was a guide for the drill bit, the drills were sharpened on an oil stone....
@@ThesheddwellerYes, I know about the wishbone sharpener. I think this guy is using it to drill plastics. I think that works fine. The downside is that the angle accuracy and how much material is removed are not well controlled. For a 1 or 0.5 mm a 0.1 mm deviation is still a lot and the tip will not be nicely centered anymore. I was looking for a more stable solution. If the drills are sharpened correctly (with 4 facet), a 1mm will go through steel like butter. Really nice.
@@Thesheddweller Ho apprezzato molto il video, c'è un errore nel precedente. Il fatto è che questo strumento è difficile da fare ma direi indispensabile in una officina.
Nice exercise! Love the way how you made that cam by hand. Your web came out too thick...wrong (axial) clamping angle maybe? I have a Drill-Doctor that was left in a corner of the company workshop together with with numerous dull drill-bits, because "it dit not work". The Drill-Doctor basically makes the same motion as your device, but if the drill is not clamped with the cutting edge at the suggested angle, the web will not come out right. After a bit of tweaking, I now have a lot of perfect cutting drills in sizes that the local hardware-store does not stock. A very simple device to sharpen drills properly is depicted here: www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/boren.265416/page-2 Used with a cup-wheel it allows one to make a geometrically proper grind. Drawback is that you have to reposition the drill halfway the process, which is difficult for small diameter drills. Above 6 mm it works fine.
![1870s Circular Sock Knitting Machine [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rAFlLEoFilM/mqdefault.jpg)
You can appreciate a talented machinist at work...
Very neat idea, and oh so close to working flawlessly.
I for one would be happy for more episodes even on a 'failed' project - your quality explanation of your often improper, corner cutting, machining methods and decision making process I find quite informative. You sometimes do things in ways I wouldn't, quite possibly wouldn't even consider and that alternative perspective can be great to have in your head.
Hi Paul. Wow! An impressive design, amount of work and attention to detail in that project. Credit to you.
I'm absolutely certain that you will solve the issue and end up with a fabulously useful piece of kit.
Regards Mark in the UK
Cheers pal.
Very good,Paul. I'm really looking forward to the final sorted version. I agree with your thinking of setting the drill once in a collet or chuck rather than buggering about with devices that require the drill be rotated and reset 180°.
i enjoyed seeing the line boring set up, quite amazing what can be done with simple machinery and some time invested
Hi Paul, I have been looking forward to this and it will be good to see the next stage and how you overcome the current issues. I like your solution for cutting the curved slot on the base pale and have noted it for future projects. I also liked the demonstration of the usefulness odd leg callipers.
Hi Tony, I trust you are still in good health. I’ve got loads of tricks up my sleeves regarding quick(dirty) fixes for lack of equipment, problem is I’m begining to forget them..
Hi I Paul, yes I am. you could to do what other creative people do and keep a notebook/ sketchbook to remind you of those ideas. Looking forward to seeing the next one.
You are nearly there! I used a drill sharpener probably 40 years ago, and I wish I had taken more notice. I think your face cam needs retract the drill more quickly. You really need to form the cam by dividing head or rotary table by cutting axial cuts to known depths, so that the cutting edge is located accurately in the same place on both sides of the drill. I look forward to Version2!
Thanks I’ll get my thinking head rebooted. got pleanty on at the moment, i will get there, promise.
Wow, what a great mechanism. I appreciate that you showed much of the layout especially. I can’t wait to see mk2. That’s some really cool work you did here.
Hi, Thanks.
@31:15 The rotation "zero" set point should be before the wheel contact the cutting lip. The cam low point should coincide a few degrees before touching the cutting lip. Then as the cam cause the drill bit to extend, it will grind the flank.
Keep at it Paul , no invention ever worked first time !
Thanks, it’s not exactly an invention "there’s nothing new in engineering”, it’s more of a variation of a theme.
But, I will keep trying.
I know this cos my wife say’s I’m very trying.
Regards
Ide pembuatan alat asah mata bor...bagus..
Anda jenius sekali pak..
The idea of making a drill bit sharpener...good..
You are a genius sir..
Hi, Thanks still got plenty to do on it. regards
Hello from Aus. The chisel edge angle is controlled by the amount of clearance ground on the drill. I would reduce the drill stick out from the collet and reduce the edge height above center of the wheel. The correct andge is about 15 deg from perpendicular. BC
I have tried many variations of cam and timing the version shown, produced the best result. The Mk2 should address the issues you mention, number one getting the point of rotation nearer to the drill tip. cheers.
This is really complicated. Please check out the Black Diamond drill grinder. It also grind a conical flank. It's much much simpler.
Thnx for letting us learn from your mistakes. I sharpen most drills by hand and check them with a hand tool drill checker. That way I can make small adjustments for when I want to cut brass or stainless etc.
@@Thesheddweller same here 😇
The arc cutting fixture was great. I may have too use that idea.
there’s always more than one way to skin a rabbit.
Very interesting and educational. I'm also looking forward to the Mk2 video.
Hi. so am I.
I think you need to tilt the whole assembly approximately 30° so the swivel motion is not "up and down" but more diagonally, like the swivel motion of your old drill sharpener.
That ensures that it grinds the relief angle on the outer diameter of the drill, but not so much on the center of the drill.
Of course you need to offset the "advance and retract cam" by the same angle to keep it in the same position as before.
Very impressive build Paul and an enjoyable watch.
Hi, thank you.
see, there's your problem right there! Making proper plans! nothing ever comes good from that! What you make has to look like the plans! You cant just claim what you end up with was what your were planning all along! :)
hahaha aint that the truth.
that is so very true..
its mesmerizing and fascinating to watch the processes. Some of those setups where AMAZING!!!!!
Hi, thanks for your comments. regards
Hello Paul,
Nice work as always... I am looking forward to watching the production of version two.
Take care.
Paul,,
I love your work and hope you will produce many videos in 2022. Especially the middle 2 drill grinding jig. Cheers Paul. Mike
Hi, Mike thanks for watching, I've still got lots of stuff to do, but I'm sure I'll get round to doing it.
cheers.
Valiant effort. Hope you learned enough to come back to it loaded for bear. As an aside. I started using a cheap AliBaba Mister with synthetic fluid. Air pressure is about 35-40 psi and I tweak down on the lfuid feed so that it barely mists. Quality of Cut improved dramatically. I'm no longer recutting chips. And I can increase speeds and feeds dramatically too.
Hi, hard work but worth it. cheers
That's an interesting drill sharpening jig. The only thing that that's put me off making one is the fact that it needs an expensive collet to fit every drill size.
There's also the small but not unsurmountable problem of the excessive web thickness which I'm sure could be corrected with a few tweaks to the geometry.
Inspiring bit of kit though, and very quick to use because of not having to re-set the drill bit. Thank you.
Hi, thanks for watching, there were a great many issues with this device. I dismantled it and made another. The collets are a standard ER32 collet set. Useful for many projects as well as the milling machine. Cheers
I have an old ARCHDALE DRILL GRINDER which is very similar to the American 510 Oliver Drill Grinder. They have a very unique way of sharpening the drill. I'll have to post a vid on my channel of it running.
@Graham O'Keefe please do that. I certainly would like to see that in action with a description as I suspect many others here would too.
interesting video i really enjoyed it. it's the hard fought battles that we remember as well as the ones that make us great. keep thinking and trying, i am sure you will succeed and i will enjoy watching. thanks for sharing.
You are most welcome.
Simple isn't the easy... Very good Job!!
very true, hard can be just as perplexing.
Am I recognizing it good? Is it sharpener based on Oliver of Adrian drill sharpening method. It is very interesting method. I wouldn't abandon this project. This sharpener almost works. It seems like the drill is moving in bit wrong way.
Ah.. too late i used most of it on the Mk2, regards
Thanks for sharing your journey. Looking forward to the next iteration!
Cheers
First off, I'd really liked your machine capabilites. Your speeds/feeds and tool choices used are good 👍. What country, where are you located? I'm in the USA. I've worked in the machinery field. I'm in the process to make a Lathe purchase soon. With the idea and hopeful to do hobby projects.
It appears that the drill should cam up and not rotate till you complete the first clearance angle, and then rotate as it cams back for the second clearance angle.
The first clearance angle should only be as wide as the web.
It sometimes appears that the device is trying to do this action backwards, or it may be my dislexic view of things.
Who knows.
An interesting approach to the natural hand grinding process.
It has me buggered how a factory automates this action reliably.
Very good device, looking forward to Mk.II and your solutions.
Take care.
I have experimented with many different cams and timing the best was shown in the video. Making the drill sharpener the same way as the Breirley sharpener would be a great way to do it but, unfortunately a new patent prevents me from using a system like that, this is why I tried the method i did.
Watch this space
@@Thesheddweller Annoying how people are protective of their ideas sometimes.
If you didn’t film it you could live with the secret.
I will be very interested in your next iteration.
I too have the (blue) drill sharpening guide you have.
I have modified it to hold the drills more securely and in a repeatable manner with a new quick release base to advance the entire guide assembly into the wheel and then use the standard advance mechanism to move the bit in the original fashion.
The advantage of the quick release base is that I can take the entire guide out and fit a drill or rotate the drill 180, accurately, for the opposite land and refit it to the grinder in the same position, without having the wheel of death in my ear or near my fingers.
Works a lot better but not perfect.
Getting a prototype correct is half the battle.
Take care.
@@pebrede Thanks pal
@@Thesheddweller My understanding is that patents don't prevent personal use of an idea. If you trying to sell it, that's another story.
@@carlhitchon1009 yes.. possibly, but if I make a prototype of something that is similar to someone elses process, then show everybody my plans, there is a chance,. a very small chance, that I could come a cropper and I can't afford that.
I would have loved to have my tool cariage swing sideways like the Brierley drill sharpener ( one of my first drawings was a sideways movement action) but after checking the patents office drawing and its date I altered my plans.
Regards
very nice job who makes there gr
Hi Paul, I think you've done a brilliant job so far. Just remember that stuff in a spray can - It's not called WD-01.
For the next time, could you explain more how you came up with the cam please? I was playing around with some graph paper, simulating the advance and rotation across the graph as if you peel a layer off & roll it across the page. But it needed a sideways kick for the point before settling back to a constant drop back down. Stay safe & well :)
The cam is easy….. I guessed.
Well,.. I moved a large drill through the action I would make while grinding the drill by hand.
How far forwards and how far down at the back.
Then calculated what sort of angular change was required with a rotational input… well the rest is down to a bit of maths and, although it pains me to say it, a bit of add some just in case.
delightful to watch as always. Thanks for all your videos!
Hi, you’re most welcome.
Having used a Brierly, i can see what you are trying to do :-) Im sure Mkii will be a winner !
you betcha.
Paul, I've made the exact same radius jig with a bit of thread bar. And can confirm it works. Another suggestion from Dai Robinson
Of course it works… :-D
Excellent tool, congratulations.
That was cleverly done. The Drill-Doctor works on the same mechanics, but, I gotta say, I like your steel version 100 times better. Your next version I am sure, you will have the cam's dialed in for your exacting desired features.. well done. I look forwards to the next design.
I've got a couple of projects to get done for some freinds of mine before I can get on it, and I am on it.
Used a drillsharpner that work after the same prinsiple, your problem lays in the profile on the cam. Mutch steeper climbe on the one I used and when the egde on the drillbit was cear the grinding wheel the cam just had a straight drop, the lobe had more the profile of a thoth on a sawblade
Wonderful video! I'm just curious if you tried other drill bits,and did you have the same results. I wonder if you could cut a relief on the flutes would the fixture work, never the less it appears to sharpen quite well. Thanks for sharing.
It sharpens Ok, but without a good sized pilot it just wonders around.
Jesteś Artystą ale Wielkim dziękuję za naukę
Cześć, dziękuję za oglądanie. Cieszę się, że podobał Ci się film.
@@Thesheddweller Witam Pana a jak naostrzy Pan małe wiertła ?
Nice job, hopefully the next version will work
The opposite cams should also be checked for the same height. Otherwise, only one flute will be cutting.
You've got my respect
Thanks.
Wish you show us the flank angle.
High, it's a real pleasure to watch. But the best thing is the contraption. I'm excited. LG Peter
hi, I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
Excelente trabajo y muy útil en el taller no hablo inglés no podrá poner subtítulos en español
Hola, lo siento, me piden muchos idiomas diferentes en los subtítulos, es algo que no puedo hacer, porque la pantalla estará llena de texto y no podrás ver el video.
gracias por ver, Saludos.
Wow your skills are great 👍👍
nice try , amazed by design and mechanism
Hi, Cheers.
EXCEPCIONAL SALUDOS MAESTRO
Muchas gracias, me alegra que te haya gustado el vídeo. salud.
thanks for that, interesting as always
You almost had it, in fact you were right there, it just needed the finishing touch of web thinning to make it work ....nothing else........I hand grind all my drills, even the .5mm ones but for that I use a Wishbone type drill sharpener and anything under 4mm diam.
I think you might have more luck with 4 facet drill grinding as there are only 4 flats to grind and they can be ground in a fixture or even something exotic like a Deckel SO D bit grinder.
Hi, thanks for your comments. These drills cut quite well but with the web being so big they need a good size pilot drill for them to do their work, so thats why its a fail. ;-)
@@Thesheddweller As I said, all you need to do is thin the web and it will be OK.....I thin the web on normally sharpened drills as most times the web is too thick anyway.
I'm currently making a cutter grinder, similar to a Deckel D bit grinder, and I'll be using it to do 4 facet drill bit grinding as I think it will give better more consistent results without struggling to get the point concentric and equal angles......I learned to grind drills over 60 years ago as an apprentice buy I think the 4 facet method has a lot of merit.
@@gangleweed The four facet method is indeed a good method and that has been considered as an after thought for this version of my drill sharpener.
Web thining is the norm with all drills over say 12 - 14mm but, I would rather try a bit harder and get the drill sharpener to get the process I’m after as good as possible before going through the web thining process.
I had also tentitivly started plans to make a quick action web thining tool, but that is a while away at the moment. I’ve got a lot of work on to get finished.
Regards
@@Thesheddweller Many years ago I read an article about drill grinding and also the 4 facet method but discounted it as just a quack way to sharpen a tool, but lately after thinking about the method it's obvious that if you have clearance behind a cutting edge it will cut......web thinning is just a secondary operation to offset the fact that the web thickness of the drill is to keep it from splitting down it's length but it's not practical to have it at the drill point.....I do web thinning from 2mm and upwards as a necessity for keeping the drill centralised during cutting.
How do you know unless you try!! Nice video👍
That grind looks like something you can get ftom any number of grinders when things go wrong. Playing with the starting angle and drill projection might show the way to go.
There is a book by Prof Hugel that goes into incredible detail about conic grind etc but it is a touch dry for me as the characterisations is little flat.😕
Edit, the height of your device relative to the wheel centre height is another consideration, as might be the small grinding wheel you are using. As the yanks would put it, just spitballing the problem.😉
Hi, spit balling was a large part of my testing process. I have tried flat siding, high and low wheel positions, I’ve even put jacks under various places. Using it as a four faceting system works well but, I still would prefer to have the drills sweep if possible, so I’ll stick at it.
Awesome project! Thanks for sharing. :o)
Hey would you be willing to sell 1 of this?
Fail? No, Mk1 👍
@@Thesheddweller I think you have made an excellent first effort.
Two avenues I would explore are:
1. reducing the lift of the cam that advances the drill towards the grindstone along its axis, and
2. 4-facet drill point grinding - this method deals very neatly with the web issue and gives much less tendency for the drill to "walk".
Eagerly watching for your Mk2.
still better than doing it by hand I think
HI, possibly, very possibly.
для механизм👍но сверло неочен острий вишло режуший кромка не очен хорош
Я не совсем понял, что вы сказали.
Вы сделали одну из этих точилок?
Этот, который я сделал, работал не очень хорошо.
Я показал это видео, чтобы объяснить, что пошло не так.
С уважением
Wow. Complex machine. Perhaps try out a concept 1st - it the simple way - before making a professional tool. At least you know the concepts works and probably it is good enough as well. I made a drill sharpener for my 0.3 - 3 mm drills as these tend to go dull very quickly somehow. Found out one can make a 4 facet on a 0.5 mm and 1 mm drill as well. But it's a b**ch to align everything as the edges on these small drills are not as clearly defined as with the bigger drills and one needs magnifiers to see anything at all. The tool I created is just an add-on to a dremel and with a 1000-1500 grid sand paper disk (normal dremel grinding disk is just too rough for these sizes of drills) and a simple holder to keep the drills positioned. A lot of work to make, but just with standard tools. But after sharpening... they cut like hell, even through steel - for as long as they stay sharp that is, cutting through iron is really tough for these small sized drills.
Hi, yes I agree, the smaller they get the harder it is to sharpen them. Mind you, I did see a small drill holder made by a Russian guy that was triangular in shape with a small wheel in 2 corners the third corner was a guide for the drill bit, the drills were sharpened on an oil stone....
@@ThesheddwellerYes, I know about the wishbone sharpener. I think this guy is using it to drill plastics. I think that works fine. The downside is that the angle accuracy and how much material is removed are not well controlled. For a 1 or 0.5 mm a 0.1 mm deviation is still a lot and the tip will not be nicely centered anymore. I was looking for a more stable solution. If the drills are sharpened correctly (with 4 facet), a 1mm will go through steel like butter. Really nice.
No apprezzato molto il video ma è difficile da fare quello strumento li.
È molto difficile da realizzare. grazie per i tuoi commenti, peccato che il video non ti sia piaciuto.
Saluti
@@Thesheddweller Ho apprezzato molto il video, c'è un errore nel precedente. Il fatto è che questo strumento è difficile da fare ma direi indispensabile in una officina.
Nice exercise! Love the way how you made that cam by hand. Your web came out too thick...wrong (axial) clamping angle maybe? I have a Drill-Doctor that was left in a corner of the company workshop together with with numerous dull drill-bits, because "it dit not work". The Drill-Doctor basically makes the same motion as your device, but if the drill is not clamped with the cutting edge at the suggested angle, the web will not come out right. After a bit of tweaking, I now have a lot of perfect cutting drills in sizes that the local hardware-store does not stock.
A very simple device to sharpen drills properly is depicted here: www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/boren.265416/page-2 Used with a cup-wheel it allows one to make a geometrically proper grind. Drawback is that you have to reposition the drill halfway the process, which is difficult for small diameter drills. Above 6 mm it works fine.