Excellent work and craftsmanship! Try a more shallow point for steels like 135°. The length of the 118° point is more ideal for softer materials such as aluminum or non hardwoods.
I thought you did a fantastic job. Making parts you could have bought was a bit much. I'm working on one for MT bits. Very few parts. My dilemma is the bits sometimes start off 18 inches long and can be reground to 7 inches. Counting the MT and given the bits use. Just for the 3/4-2 inch bits
If your a hobbyist then your doing great! But if not and this is/was your profession, then why aren't you counter sinking before reaming and tapping?! 🧐
Ref hand tapping in the mill you will notice that most taps have either a point on the end of the driving square or better a centre you can use this to keep the tap vertical: Let’s say the tap you want to to use has a centre, find another tap that has a point on the thread end and put this in the drill chuck, put the threading tap in your tap wrench and locate in the hole to be tapped, lower the quill and use the point of the other tap as a centre in the end. Put a drop of oil on the centre, as you tap keep a bit of pressure on the quill to keep the centre locate as the tap winds in. For tape with a point you can use a mating tap with a centre in the threaded end usually found on bottoming taps, it helps if the centring tap is a similar size You can make a spring loaded centre to replace the locating tap which make the job easier. Thanks for sharing I have a Mk1 Worden and the same kit that I’ll be making for it.
![6 Practical Drill bit Sharpening Hacks !!! [Subtitle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dpPmYYexQJ8/mqdefault.jpg)
![6 Practical Drill bit Sharpening Hacks !!! [Subtitle]](/img/tr.png)
Great project for a home shop. Thanks for sharing!
Many thanks!
Excellent work and craftsmanship! Try a more shallow point for steels like 135°. The length of the 118° point is more ideal for softer materials such as aluminum or non hardwoods.
Great project and nicely made, thanks for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice video and nice project 😀👍...
But.... tapping with a jacobs keyless chuck ?....is a big nono and asking for a broken tap
Use the right tools for the job and never a problem with keyless chucks.
great video. and well edited. whats the type of grinder & wheel your using? not seen anything that looks like that before?
Many thanks! It's a Worden Mk 3 tool and cutter grinder that I built recently. I'm using a 100mm, 60-grit, aluminium oxide, taper cup wheel.
Nicely nice chap ... very Nicely made videos to .... nice one...
peace
Many thanks for the kind words!
nice work! Thank You!
Thanks!
I thought you did a fantastic job. Making parts you could have bought was a bit much. I'm working on one for MT bits. Very few parts. My dilemma is the bits sometimes start off 18 inches long and can be reground to 7 inches. Counting the MT and given the bits use. Just for the 3/4-2 inch bits
Yup good video no f ing about get on with the show and show us the results, good show mate
Thank you very much!
@@PaulsGarageProjects your very welcome
If your a hobbyist then your doing great!
But if not and this is/was your profession, then why aren't you counter sinking before reaming and tapping?! 🧐
Many thanks for the tip! I'd heard that it's a good idea to countersink before tapping, but didn't know about reaming.
@@PaulsGarageProjects Your welcome!
ALWAYS chamfer prior to tapping, reaming,...
Ref hand tapping in the mill you will notice that most taps have either a point on the end of the driving square or better a centre you can use this to keep the tap vertical: Let’s say the tap you want to to use has a centre, find another tap that has a point on the thread end and put this in the drill chuck, put the threading tap in your tap wrench and locate in the hole to be tapped, lower the quill and use the point of the other tap as a centre in the end. Put a drop of oil on the centre, as you tap keep a bit of pressure on the quill to keep the centre locate as the tap winds in. For tape with a point you can use a mating tap with a centre in the threaded end usually found on bottoming taps, it helps if the centring tap is a similar size You can make a spring loaded centre to replace the locating tap which make the job easier. Thanks for sharing I have a Mk1 Worden and the same kit that I’ll be making for it.
@tonyray91 Just finished making myself a spring-loaded tap follower, which should do the trick 👍
👍😎👍