Here in my experience are the simple differences between Reactive balls and Urethane balls: 1. Reactive balls slide through oil much further than urethane balls which tend to dig in early through the oil. 2. Because urethane balls dig in early, they hook early while Reactive balls hook late. 3. Because urethane balls hook early they expend their energy early which makes them react less strongly to the dry backend when they exit the oil pattern. 4. Reactive balls, because they hook so late, retain much more energy, so when they exit the oil pattern and hit the dry backend, they move very suddenly and aggressively. This is why they hit so hard even on light or poor hits. 5. Urethane needs oil to work, it is not for dry lanes. If it does not have enough oil, it will hook so early that it will run out of energy so soon that it will have no hitting power. That usually produces corner pin leaves and 8-10 splits. 6. Resin works much better on dry lanes since these balls have the ability to slide so well and hook so late. 7. When you want to control the shape down lane, play more direct and control the pocket on difficult patterns, strong urethane is an excellent choice for bowlers of any rev rate or skill level. 8. When the pattern is well defined or easy like house shots, resin will provide the most hitting power and margin for error. But remember, resin needs a dry backend to react to, if there is significant carry down, reactive balls will react very little and lose their hitting power. 9. Urethane balls do not absorb oil and dry themselves like reactive balls do, so they slowly get more and more lubed up over time and tend to lose their traction as the set goes on. They also can push oil down the lane, effectively lengthening the oil pattern and reducing the amount of dry backend area. This can hurt reactive balls ability to react in the back. 10. Reactive balls absorb the oil into their coverstock and dry themselves so they retain their traction and over time take oil off the lanes making them more and more dry. This is how they create area and margin for error, by grooving dry tracks through the oil pattern.
@@ConquerCollin because there is no additives in most urethane balls. Though there are different recipes for urethane, there isn't usually anything in them to ad colors that are different
@@JamesSchro It depends on the kind of bowler you are. If you have higher axis rotation and higher axis tilt you can move your feet left and throw right to the dry area you created and get the ball to arc back to the pocket and create good entry angle. This is how most modern bowlers adjust on a house shot. If you are an old school bowler with more of an end over end low axis tilt release, then you will parallel left, moving feet and target together by the same amount to find more oil and a new direct line to the pocket. I am an Old School Full Roller who plays direct to the pocket. The other night I started by playing over the 8 board while standing with right foot on 4 board. Once the oil broke down I moved my target left to 9 board and my foot left to 6 board and then after a bit my foot to 7 board. As a straight bowler that is all that was needed for me using resin in a league with 8 people on the same pair all using resin.
Yes, it took me a while to compare betweem the two balls, i have been using reactive for the last 12 years and start using the uerethane now . I use the reactive on outside of the first arrow, when the oil start moving toward the pins . I switch to uereathane in the toward between second and third arrow. I tried to use the uereathane on the same pattern on for reactive , it leaves a lot of tenth pin. Still a learning experience with different type of balls . This video is awesome, thanks to B & K !
Preston Shader yeah, I had just gotten a new ball back from getting drilled when everything got shut down. I just want to try out my new ball with good holes drilled to actually fit my hand.
@@RyanBischoffPercussion That's what I'm saying, man. We're in the same boat. I had just gotten my Pitch Black drilled a couple months ago and had only used it a few times. Dying to get back lol. What ball did you get and is it your first one?
Same, ours is gonna be opening up here in the Philippines but still requires Social Distancing and no high fives while bowling which is no big deal for me as long as I could bowl.
I have an Storm Pitch black for my highschool bowling team, and I like it because since the color of the bowling ball is black, I can see the oil stain easily which I can clean well.
This video really helped me out guys thanks. I only been bowling 2 years and have a couple of 300’s. I crush it on fresh but have a really hard time on dry because of my high revs. This is the gem 💎 of the year for me thanks again.
I would love a video on arm swing angle. I see so many pros’ arms release what looks like left but the ball obviously starts to the right and hooks back and I can’t quite comprehend what to focus on.
I started bowling in 1979 with a Johnny Petraglia LT-48, a rubber ball, and have witnessed the progression of modern bowling ball and lane technology. When the Columbia Yellow Dot came out it revolutionized bowling. When urethane balls came out it happened again. And again with synthetic lanes and reactive resin balls. Most pro bowlers couldn't weather those changes, and only a handful could excel in different periods, like Weber and Duke. Back in the old days the balls hooked very little so they didn't apply near as much oil to the lanes as today. That allowed urethane balls to work well back then. Today urethane balls are just too weak for the conditions. Only a tiny fraction of today's bowlers can utilize urethane. Specifically, it is bowlers like Ryan Ciminelli who have too much power and revs and don't move in a lot. He needs a urethane ball that doesn't respond much to keep it under control so he can get near the pocket. I just don't think Mr. Miller is big enough to profit from a urethane ball, a weaker reactive resin ball would probably work better.
Not really., The ractive ball reacts to the DRY. It’s also urethane but with a resin additive that makes the surface porous and grab the lane sooner, while the plain urethane will keep the oil on the surface and does not grab the dry as much (unless the urethane is a lot softer than regulations allow) The urethane also carry that more surface oil into the dry.
I went to the Bowling place this past week after watching a few of these coaching videos. I had to pretty much throw the House ball right on the corner of the gutter for it to hook onto that pocket area and it still didn't have enough energy. So I was worried that my arm was too weak to handle a heavier ball I have no idea Urethane/Reactive was a think. Explains all of the Storm balls.
Great video! We have repeatedly heard that urethane is preferred by high-rev bowlers who find that their reactive resin equipment overreacts, but that lower-rev bowlers are ill-advised to use urethane, because they need the sharper back-end reaction that resin provides. But....as manufacturers are releasing stronger and stronger reactive resin balls, with stronger covers and even stronger cores, specifically on house shots, it seems that unless you are either a high-rev or high-speed bowler, modern resin balls might also overreact for you, looking great through the heads and mids and jumping just a tad uncontrollably on the back end. In this situaiton, for the lower-rev, lower speed bowler, would urethane be a viable house shot option? Same question, for the traditional "down and in" bowler: would urethane be a decent option to allow this bowler to stay put, outside, especially if the bowler is a lefty, rather than having to chase it in and ball up? Thank you
My grandmother introduced me to bowling and had taught me how to do the walk, as well to get the ball as close to the lane as possible before releasing. It's been many years since I've bowled. But. I'm going to have to retrain to shoot lefty.
So would urethane most likely only be a good choice first match of my leagues? Or would it be a ball that's better to use when the lanes are beat up towards the end?
I have a 2 Hander teammate that he’s the rockbottom of our Youth Division, he has Urethane Balls but his balls over hooks since the house pattern we bowl on isn’t just like any other house patterns
if he's right handed he shouldn't be throwing urethane unless if its a short, or dry pattern. If he's left he might be able to get away with it but prob not
I would recommend him to increase his ball speed. if he does 5 steps do thrid step before the ball passes through the leg from the push. watch the belmo slow motion. u will know what im takin abt
Neooooo. He’s right handed and we chat one time that I recommended him to throw Reactive and he said the Reactive doesn’t even read properly. The House Pattern was 41 feet and it wasn’t like any house patterns, it was fresh from the start and it drys very quickly, this pattern was Manually oiled cause the Oil Machine was broken and the Oil Machine will only lay the pattern down flat twice.
One of the best moves I made was adding my purple hammer urethane to my bag! I've noticed that reactive solely wasn't working for me and was having some off frames now im more consistent!
So... I just gotta say that I like the purple better that the black, a lot more versatile in my hand. But I do like the promotion of urethane. Because for high rev guys (I'm in the high 400 low 500s depending on what's needed.) It does get me out of the "jump trap"
Urethane also pushes the oil around on the lane where the reactive just picks it up, so the oil pattern will degrade fast with many players using urethane
It's been years since I bowled. Back in the day I used a plain old black urethane Hammer. The guy I bowled with bought a Cuda C and let me play around with it. That was the end of the urethane Hammer.
In las Vegas you will definitely need to bowl ball that goes straight.The lanes or floors are colder.So the hooking is a lot slower or the curve of the ball or the arc whatever you want to call it is a lot slower because of the oil or I should say the grease that's put down but anyway that's las Vegas you got to have a ball that hooks , curves, or arcs ,what ever you want to call it. The hook , Captain Hock, needs a little bit of a hook in Lost Wages,O I mean Los Vegas, NV.
Hello, enjoyed the video. I've always been a once a week bowler. I'm a decent power player. My one 300 is with a urethane ball. The Visionary Blue Gargoyle. The name "Visonary" was perfect. The ball came out in the early/mid 2000's. It had a a fairly mild asymmetrical core. 2.59 RG. 038 dif. But is a fairly strong core inside a urethane ball. Why don't they put stronger cores in urethane balls? I've actually been wondering that for about 15 years. Again enjoyed the video.
I've have the opposite results with my Pitch Black. I'm a lefty with little hook. My preferred ball is a Destiny Hybrid that I bowl over my #10 board. I got a Pitch Black for Christmas. I tried laying it down left of my #5 board and it hooked so hard it hits the 3 while missing the 1 or just kissing it. When I use it, I have to stand on the other side of the lane and actually bowl for stronger hook. Maybe the ball just isn't for my style. But, that's what trying is for.
The early reactive in the 90’s wasn’t to much stronger than Urethane, but now it’s crazy to bowl on a PBA/sport pattern you just about need a urethane ball, Columbia 300 should bring back the U dot I liked the motion of that ball
Yes I pretty much use urethane everytime I bowl I have the black widow love it to death I do better with it on heavy oil patterns throwing it on the outside and letting it break hard into the pocket.
What do you think about the newest thing I have been seeing. Plastic balls with aggressive asymmetric weight blocks (like Track Spare Plus, Black Widow Spare, or Pyramid Pathogen Blue Dot) seem to be the best of both worlds. They have a strong back-end like the resin but don't go crazy when the lanes are too dry. Have any of the pros tried throwing any of them when the lanes get tricky? I have a high-rev full roller shot, but age and injuries brought my ball speed from around 19 to barely 14. Resin just jumped too much, but my Pathogen Blue Dot holds the lane long enough but still drives hard enough for me to throw 4th and 5th arrow lines.
Could you create a weight block on a computer, send it to your mfg rep and have a certain ball wrapped around it? Or, there might be thousands of unused ones in the warehouse...? Some states must be opening their lanes before others? The drive could be worth it...lol ?
Hey guys, I throw a pretty big two finger style hook as it is with the house balls at the bowling alley. I recently got "the stinger" (first ball), and can barely keep it on the lane to hit the left side pins as it nearly u-turns once it hits the back-end of the lane unless I throw like a rocket, and even then I can barely hit the 1 and 2 pins and never 1 and 3. What ball or balls would you recommend taking a look at? I don't want to throw the crappy house balls anymore, but obviously a reactive ball isn't working. would you recommend something like a pitch black? I want a nice ball, but I already put enough spin on it so even a low-mid reactive isn't going to work.
I love throwing my urethane some days ill just bring in my urethane with my black widow I can swing it out from 35 to about 8 and slam the pocket (I'm a righty)
The reason why any competitive, competent tournament bowler should carry a urethane ball is this; there are times when the best you can grind out is 180. 90% of the those times a urethane ball will be more predictable, keep you around the pocket and leave easier conversions. You've got to fill the frames when it comes down to the tricky lane conditions. When the shot is soft it's a carry contest but that's not what separates the good from the great. In my opinion the ability to just put the ego aside and know when to go into grinding mode is what makes the difference between contending in longer tournaments or on tougher conditions.
Thinking about getting a urethane. I found an old storm natural urethane plugged and ready to be drilled for $60 low games. Should I get it or is it better to spend a couple more bucks buying a new pitch black?
I am purchasing a new ION Mesmerize and currently using a Columbia Black U Dot Scout, so hopefully I can create a happy marriage with both however, the Scout is what I have been using since the early 90s. I like the look of the Mesmerize. Never have thrown a reactive resin ball so I guess I am gonna have to practice a bit with it.
I only use reactive balls now but I will always make sure to have a short pin layout reactive ball so I can throw it in the area most urethane balls are being played at with the advantage of going more inside.
Short Pin Reactive is not the same as urethane. Totally different. When the lanes demand urethane, short pin reactive is not the answer. What they didn't mention in the video is "where" resin reads the lane and "where" urethane reads the lane. This is the main difference between them. Urethane digs in early and hooks early and then sets and rolls, resin slides through oil then responds aggressively to the friction at the "back of the lane." This is why resin moves more in the back and less in the front and why urethane moves more in the front and less in the back. A short pin reactive is still a resin ball, it will skid through the oil and flip in the back, not the shape you want when hook/set/roll is what the pattern calls for. Only "true urethane" can provide the classic hook/set/roll shape. Follow Brad's advice, get a real urethane ball in your bag. Learn to use it.
would it be a good idea to use Urethane for my spare ball since I would have more control with it, hopefully increasing my accuracy using Urethane? thanks guys
Honestly, if u are considering a storm ball, look at the phaze series, the two and three, are two of the greatest and most transversal when it comes to release and oil patterns, but I’m only 15, so ya know, idk all the ins and outs
Question, I roll a "freebie" ball, am a lefty, and a 1 finger bowler but not quite a two-hander...I have a "funky" style as people say and average a 181 since August. I don't plan to change my throw as I have spent some serious time since I got back into bowling the last few months with a several year break. My ball speed is pretty slow...around 12.5 - 13.5 MPH (if my lanes are correct here..some register far more). I typically have a slow-gradual hook and when I don't tattoo the rack...I seem to always leave the 7 pin or the 4 and 7 together. Either way.... the ball I have now is a 12lb (closer to a 13 really as it weighed about 12.6) It is a freebie ball you get with a league from a while back and doesn't hook much. Now that I am serious..I am looking into a 15lb or 14lb ball and staying with my 1 finger roll or possibly 2.... Since my local shops don;t allow for demos...I am having to "internet" my next purchase.... I will have a video up soon of a recent game so maybe you guys can see how I "roll". Looking for any advice on this urethane vs. reactive.
Can u guys make a video abt how to react to the urathen balls? ik the urathen balls change the oil on the lane but idk how fast it will change n how to react on it. (idk yall already made one)
I'm an old woman and mediocre bowler 150 - 160 average and only bowl a couple of times a week and in a senior tournament now and then. I'm not a big striker, but work to pick up my spares with a few strikes thrown in. I do throw my ball fairly hard for a woman my age (13 - 15 mph). Is there one ball I can use in all conditions and just adjust how I throw it? I used to use an Ebonite Cyclone and was happy with it but they don't make it anymore. It's just too much to lug around more than one ball nowadays.
Hi Brad and Kyle, I have been struggling using urethane balls when the lane transitions. Can you please help. You have a lot of experience. Can you break it down for me. How to make adjustments (board position, angle, speed, etc..) in Short, Medium, and Long pattern throughout the games or when the lane transitions. I would really appreciate if you or anyone who is reading this share their expertise. Thank you so much!
So should we own one of each? I bowl straight, and been using house balls, should I buy a urethane drilled for straight? Or is there gonna be "Oh no you poor thing" for not hooking?
I haven't bowled for a many years in a league I don't have a ball anymore but I want to get back in it so I'm wondering what ball to use I never used a urethane ball and I don't throw as fast as I used to and my hook isn't as strong but still pretty controllable with a house ball. Would I be learning to bowl all over again if I used a urethane ball
JR , I’ve been bowling for a while but I’m new to hooking the ball using my thumb. What would be a layout that you would recommend a beginner to start with that don’t really know about all that? Thanks in advance.
2:20 - WTaF??? Who taught you to bowl, lad? If your hand didn't fly outward, but instead ended up next to your right ear after your followthrough, you'd be MUCH more consistent. You're losing a LOT of your consistency by changing the direction of your arm just as you release the ball. Unless you time it PERFECTLY every time, that change in direction is pulling your ball offline to the right, at least a little bit, much of the time. AND, the worst thing, is it's not the same amount every time. ANY amount of skill can always be improved by consistency, unless you throw 300s every game. 3:01 - You need to use my Rhino (the red one, I believe), from about 1990. It had a symmetrical weight block shaped like a dumbbell, so the weight was concentrated near the surface. I had it drilled with the weights parallel to my track, and it used to power throuth ANYTHING due to the increased gyroscopic inertia. Wet lanes, no problem. Light hits, no problem.
In league how do you get around the carried down oil from the dude playing the track with urethane? Nasty wiggle showed up and unless I was uncomfortable deep couldn't get it to roll right downlane... thanks in advance for any advice yall... TNJR
So I have "The Angle" by AMF and the "T Zone Ocean Reef" by Brunswick.... I'm not really sure what type they are but I think "The Angle" is urethane and the "T Zone" is reactive.....anyone out there know for sure? Cuz I'm just guessing
I think the 'old' LT48 was a rubber ball with particles in it for hook. When the black and blue hammers came out they were amazing balls. Blue hooked more than black because of coverstock. You could make either hook more or less by sanding or polishing. Today's urethane has newer coverstock but has a REAL core. The old hammers, angles, columbia u-dots had a pankace core that didn't help the ball hook (much anyway). Today's balls have cores that allow the ball to hook more by the way the core makes the ball revolve (and allows the ball to 'flare' so successive revolutions occur on different parts of the ball's surface).
My old urethane ball was eaten by a ball return machine, and now I throw plastic and have zero plans to ever go back to Urethane again, I don't like hooking spears, aside from one spear and I can hook my plastic if I have to. As for a reactive ball, well my old urethane ball wasn't anything close to a strike ball, the carry was crap, so unless mine was low quality, my current Reactive ball, even 7 years old, will hook five times what my old urethane ball did.
MARK ROTH FROM BROOKLYN WAS THE BOWLER WHO SHOWED US HOW TO MAKE THE BALL REV UP AND HOOK// THE ORIGINAL CRANKER// WHEN EVERYONE WAS PLAYING A 2 OR 3 BOARD HOOK TOPS, MARK ROTH WOULD USE HIS 4, 5 AND SOMETIMES 6 STEP APPROACH AND CRANK THE SHIT OUT OF THE BALL AND IT WOULD AT TIMES HOOK 10 OR MORE BOARDS// OH YES, BOARDS, FORGOT THEY HAD ACTUAL WOOD ALLEYS!!!! ALL HAIL THE KING OF ALL CRANKERS( MARK ROTH..AND A LITTLE LATER YOU HAD RUDY REVS KASIMAKIS WHO WAS A STRONG GUY WHO WOULD HAVE A BACK SWING THAT WENT ALL THE WAY UP TO THE CEILING, A PAUSE OF 1OR 2 SECONDS AND THEN ON THE DOWN SWING WOULD TEAR THE COVERSTOCK OFF THE BALL, AND YOU WOULD LITERALLY SEE SMOKE COMING FROM THE REVS HE WOULD CREATE AND COULD HOOK THE BALL FROMTHE EXTREME LEFT SIDE OF LANE ALL THE WAY ACCROSS ALMOST INTO THE RIGHT GUTTER AND THEN IT WOULD HOOK ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE POCKET AND NEVER ROLL OUT[ PURE FUCKING POWER] I THINK HE HAD MORE REVS THAN BELMO!!!!!!
I refuse to get a urethane ball I see people move to urethane that can no longer effectively throw reactive ...it’s a crutch ...I have a mild hook solid reactive for the short lane or dried out conditions
Here in my experience are the simple differences between Reactive balls and Urethane balls:
1. Reactive balls slide through oil much further than urethane balls which tend to dig in early through the oil.
2. Because urethane balls dig in early, they hook early while Reactive balls hook late.
3. Because urethane balls hook early they expend their energy early which makes them react less strongly to the dry backend when they exit the oil pattern.
4. Reactive balls, because they hook so late, retain much more energy, so when they exit the oil pattern and hit the dry backend, they move very suddenly and aggressively. This is why they hit so hard even on light or poor hits.
5. Urethane needs oil to work, it is not for dry lanes. If it does not have enough oil, it will hook so early that it will run out of energy so soon that it will have no hitting power. That usually produces corner pin leaves and 8-10 splits.
6. Resin works much better on dry lanes since these balls have the ability to slide so well and hook so late.
7. When you want to control the shape down lane, play more direct and control the pocket on difficult patterns, strong urethane is an excellent choice for bowlers of any rev rate or skill level.
8. When the pattern is well defined or easy like house shots, resin will provide the most hitting power and margin for error. But remember, resin needs a dry backend to react to, if there is significant carry down, reactive balls will react very little and lose their hitting power.
9. Urethane balls do not absorb oil and dry themselves like reactive balls do, so they slowly get more and more lubed up over time and tend to lose their traction as the set goes on. They also can push oil down the lane, effectively lengthening the oil pattern and reducing the amount of dry backend area. This can hurt reactive balls ability to react in the back.
10. Reactive balls absorb the oil into their coverstock and dry themselves so they retain their traction and over time take oil off the lanes making them more and more dry. This is how they create area and margin for error, by grooving dry tracks through the oil pattern.
Why are all urethane so dull?
Well said bro thank you
@@ConquerCollin because there is no additives in most urethane balls. Though there are different recipes for urethane, there isn't usually anything in them to ad colors that are different
What do i do when i dry out the right side of the lane and resin over hooks? Play middle and throw straight?
@@JamesSchro It depends on the kind of bowler you are.
If you have higher axis rotation and higher axis tilt you can move your feet left and throw right to the dry area you created and get the ball to arc back to the pocket and create good entry angle. This is how most modern bowlers adjust on a house shot.
If you are an old school bowler with more of an end over end low axis tilt release, then you will parallel left, moving feet and target together by the same amount to find more oil and a new direct line to the pocket.
I am an Old School Full Roller who plays direct to the pocket.
The other night I started by playing over the 8 board while standing with right foot on 4 board.
Once the oil broke down I moved my target left to 9 board and my foot left to 6 board and then after a bit my foot to 7 board.
As a straight bowler that is all that was needed for me using resin in a league with 8 people on the same pair all using resin.
This video teaches in 7 minutes what took me a month to learn on my own. Good ole trial and error approach. All points in this video are true.
Yes, it took me a while to compare betweem the two balls, i have been using reactive for the last 12 years and start using the uerethane now . I use the reactive on outside of the first arrow, when the oil start moving toward the pins . I switch to uereathane in the toward between second and third arrow. I tried to use the uereathane on the same pattern on for reactive , it leaves a lot of tenth pin. Still a learning experience with different type of balls . This video is awesome, thanks to B & K !
brad: urethane has less hitting power, weak 10s everywhere blah blah
jesper svensson: haha urethane go boom boom
And Jakob
Jespers just a different breed😂
How many one handers have a 600 rev rate like the Iceman? I would say you can count one one had the number of one handers 550rpm or better.
@@philperry3639 what are you saying? Jesper bowls one handed or the one handers cant match his spin rate
@@thesenate5245 I am saying there are very few one handers that can match his rev rate.
So jealous you guys are bowling. Can't wait for my local alley to open back up
Preston Shader yeah, I had just gotten a new ball back from getting drilled when everything got shut down. I just want to try out my new ball with good holes drilled to actually fit my hand.
@@RyanBischoffPercussion That's what I'm saying, man. We're in the same boat. I had just gotten my Pitch Black drilled a couple months ago and had only used it a few times. Dying to get back lol. What ball did you get and is it your first one?
Same, ours is gonna be opening up here in the Philippines but still requires Social Distancing and no high fives while bowling which is no big deal for me as long as I could bowl.
Preston Shader same. No idea when though
@@PinoyBowlerGS92 Idk, if I can't high five after a strike or spare, i don't know if it is even worth it lol. Jk i'd totally still go
Was always confused about when to use urethane, thanks
I have an Storm Pitch black for my highschool bowling team, and I like it because since the color of the bowling ball is black, I can see the oil stain easily which I can clean well.
This video really helped me out guys thanks. I only been bowling 2 years and have a couple of 300’s. I crush it on fresh but have a really hard time on dry because of my high revs. This is the gem 💎 of the year for me thanks again.
I would love a video on arm swing angle. I see so many pros’ arms release what looks like left but the ball obviously starts to the right and hooks back and I can’t quite comprehend what to focus on.
Would love a video looking at the difference between symetric and asymmetric blocks
Great video. Would be nice to see the reactive ball thrown in the same spot as the line used with the urethane when it struck.
Hi Brad and Kyle I feel this is helpful and the advice will help me choose an new ball whenever I’m ready to do that by the way today is my birthday
I started bowling in 1979 with a Johnny Petraglia LT-48, a rubber ball, and have witnessed the progression of modern bowling ball and lane technology. When the Columbia Yellow Dot came out it revolutionized bowling. When urethane balls came out it happened again. And again with synthetic lanes and reactive resin balls. Most pro bowlers couldn't weather those changes, and only a handful could excel in different periods, like Weber and Duke. Back in the old days the balls hooked very little so they didn't apply near as much oil to the lanes as today. That allowed urethane balls to work well back then. Today urethane balls are just too weak for the conditions. Only a tiny fraction of today's bowlers can utilize urethane. Specifically, it is bowlers like Ryan Ciminelli who have too much power and revs and don't move in a lot. He needs a urethane ball that doesn't respond much to keep it under control so he can get near the pocket. I just don't think Mr. Miller is big enough to profit from a urethane ball, a weaker reactive resin ball would probably work better.
@Brian Hess still have my black beauty yellow dot and track 10 lol
The LT48 was a great ball, I used to throw a friends dad's LT48 when the red hammer was too much ball. The LT48 still holds my highest score at 225.
How many of you guys can remember drilling that first resin ball back in the early 90s and thinking, “5th range finder, here I come”.
Not really., The ractive ball reacts to the DRY. It’s also urethane but with a resin additive that makes the surface porous and grab the lane sooner, while the plain urethane will keep the oil on the surface and does not grab the dry as much (unless the urethane is a lot softer than regulations allow) The urethane also carry that more surface oil into the dry.
A really good video documentary on Bowling,thx's
He surely made it understandable to a beginner. I'm hoping to get into bowling and looking to get fit into a ball.
Y’all bowling at St. Louis? Ill make the drive up to bowl with you. :)
finally a good video explaining the difference between the two
I went to the Bowling place this past week after watching a few of these coaching videos. I had to pretty much throw the House ball right on the corner of the gutter for it to hook onto that pocket area and it still didn't have enough energy. So I was worried that my arm was too weak to handle a heavier ball I have no idea Urethane/Reactive was a think. Explains all of the Storm balls.
Brad do you still prefer the pitch black even with the release of the pitch purple?
Great video! We have repeatedly heard that urethane is preferred by high-rev bowlers who find that their reactive resin equipment overreacts, but that lower-rev bowlers are ill-advised to use urethane, because they need the sharper back-end reaction that resin provides. But....as manufacturers are releasing stronger and stronger reactive resin balls, with stronger covers and even stronger cores, specifically on house shots, it seems that unless you are either a high-rev or high-speed bowler, modern resin balls might also overreact for you, looking great through the heads and mids and jumping just a tad uncontrollably on the back end.
In this situaiton, for the lower-rev, lower speed bowler, would urethane be a viable house shot option?
Same question, for the traditional "down and in" bowler: would urethane be a decent option to allow this bowler to stay put, outside, especially if the bowler is a lefty, rather than having to chase it in and ball up?
Thank you
Now this is a useful video 👌🏼
My grandmother introduced me to bowling and had taught me how to do the walk, as well to get the ball as close to the lane as possible before releasing. It's been many years since I've bowled. But. I'm going to have to retrain to shoot lefty.
So would urethane most likely only be a good choice first match of my leagues?
Or would it be a ball that's better to use when the lanes are beat up towards the end?
definitely towards the end because it can get annoying trying to figure out a less predictive lane with a ball that requires more precision
I have a 2 Hander teammate that he’s the rockbottom of our Youth Division, he has Urethane Balls but his balls over hooks since the house pattern we bowl on isn’t just like any other house patterns
if he's right handed he shouldn't be throwing urethane unless if its a short, or dry pattern. If he's left he might be able to get away with it but prob not
I would recommend him to increase his ball speed. if he does 5 steps do thrid step before the ball passes through the leg from the push. watch the belmo slow motion. u will know what im takin abt
Davidmr2100 yeah i just read my comment again and you are right lol
Neooooo. He’s right handed and we chat one time that I recommended him to throw Reactive and he said the Reactive doesn’t even read properly. The House Pattern was 41 feet and it wasn’t like any house patterns, it was fresh from the start and it drys very quickly, this pattern was Manually oiled cause the Oil Machine was broken and the Oil Machine will only lay the pattern down flat twice.
One of the best moves I made was adding my purple hammer urethane to my bag! I've noticed that reactive solely wasn't working for me and was having some off frames now im more consistent!
I keep rolling my ball over the thumb hole, is there a way to fix that?
Sparky you probably need to get your ball redrilled and find you P A P
That should be all right,if there's no finger plugs in it
Thank you all for the advise. It worked :)
Brad and Kyle! Excited seeing you guys back on the Lanes and talking bowling 🎳! Great info and content here! 👍🏽✌🏽😊✌🏽👌🏽
So... I just gotta say that I like the purple better that the black, a lot more versatile in my hand. But I do like the promotion of urethane. Because for high rev guys (I'm in the high 400 low 500s depending on what's needed.) It does get me out of the "jump trap"
Urethane also pushes the oil around on the lane where the reactive just picks it up, so the oil pattern will degrade fast with many players using urethane
I mean it'll also degrade fast with people using high-end resin, just in a different way.
It's been years since I bowled. Back in the day I used a plain old black urethane Hammer. The guy I bowled with bought a Cuda C and let me play around with it. That was the end of the urethane Hammer.
In las Vegas you will definitely need to bowl ball that goes straight.The lanes or floors are colder.So the hooking is a lot slower or the curve of the ball or the arc whatever you want to call it is a lot slower because of the oil or I should say the grease that's put down but anyway that's las Vegas you got to have a ball that hooks , curves, or arcs ,what ever you want to call it. The hook , Captain Hock, needs a little bit of a hook in Lost Wages,O I mean Los Vegas, NV.
i was just at Frontier lanes guys! drove all the way from Indiana
In cushing oklahoma
Hello, enjoyed the video. I've always been a once a week bowler. I'm a decent power player. My one 300 is with a urethane ball. The Visionary Blue Gargoyle. The name "Visonary" was perfect. The ball came out in the early/mid 2000's. It had a a fairly mild asymmetrical core. 2.59 RG. 038 dif. But is a fairly strong core inside a urethane ball. Why don't they put stronger cores in urethane balls? I've actually been wondering that for about 15 years. Again enjoyed the video.
I've have the opposite results with my Pitch Black. I'm a lefty with little hook. My preferred ball is a Destiny Hybrid that I bowl over my #10 board. I got a Pitch Black for Christmas. I tried laying it down left of my #5 board and it hooked so hard it hits the 3 while missing the 1 or just kissing it. When I use it, I have to stand on the other side of the lane and actually bowl for stronger hook. Maybe the ball just isn't for my style. But, that's what trying is for.
Now what they didn't cover is why reactive balls are so much prettier lol
Excellent content. - Thx Guys
The early reactive in the 90’s wasn’t to much stronger than Urethane, but now it’s crazy to bowl on a PBA/sport pattern you just about need a urethane ball, Columbia 300 should bring back the U dot I liked the motion of that ball
Is the Black widow 2.0 good
Yes I pretty much use urethane everytime I bowl I have the black widow love it to death I do better with it on heavy oil patterns throwing it on the outside and letting it break hard into the pocket.
What do you think about the newest thing I have been seeing. Plastic balls with aggressive asymmetric weight blocks (like Track Spare Plus, Black Widow Spare, or Pyramid Pathogen Blue Dot) seem to be the best of both worlds. They have a strong back-end like the resin but don't go crazy when the lanes are too dry. Have any of the pros tried throwing any of them when the lanes get tricky?
I have a high-rev full roller shot, but age and injuries brought my ball speed from around 19 to barely 14. Resin just jumped too much, but my Pathogen Blue Dot holds the lane long enough but still drives hard enough for me to throw 4th and 5th arrow lines.
Replay? Were you guys actually able to get into an open Bowling center?
How are you guys at the bowling alley? I thought they were pretty much closed down for Covid-19 reasons.
Nice vid 👍
What are the differences in Pitch black and Pitch Purple, which one is better to get for higher power with lower rev rate.
Could you create a weight block on a computer, send it to your mfg rep and have a certain ball wrapped around it? Or, there might be thousands of unused ones in the warehouse...?
Some states must be opening their lanes before others? The drive could be worth it...lol ?
good explanation
Hey guys, I throw a pretty big two finger style hook as it is with the house balls at the bowling alley. I recently got "the stinger" (first ball), and can barely keep it on the lane to hit the left side pins as it nearly u-turns once it hits the back-end of the lane unless I throw like a rocket, and even then I can barely hit the 1 and 2 pins and never 1 and 3. What ball or balls would you recommend taking a look at? I don't want to throw the crappy house balls anymore, but obviously a reactive ball isn't working. would you recommend something like a pitch black? I want a nice ball, but I already put enough spin on it so even a low-mid reactive isn't going to work.
I love throwing my urethane some days ill just bring in my urethane with my black widow I can swing it out from 35 to about 8 and slam the pocket (I'm a righty)
Same here, and when my Widow is too strong, out comes Purple Hammer!
What pound bowling ball do you guys use?
If I'm stubborn am I able to use a urethane ball for straight bowling?
The reason why any competitive, competent tournament bowler should carry a urethane ball is this; there are times when the best you can grind out is 180. 90% of the those times a urethane ball will be more predictable, keep you around the pocket and leave easier conversions. You've got to fill the frames when it comes down to the tricky lane conditions. When the shot is soft it's a carry contest but that's not what separates the good from the great. In my opinion the ability to just put the ego aside and know when to go into grinding mode is what makes the difference between contending in longer tournaments or on tougher conditions.
Thinking about getting a urethane. I found an old storm natural urethane plugged and ready to be drilled for $60 low games. Should I get it or is it better to spend a couple more bucks buying a new pitch black?
I have a teen masters ball is that a decent substitute for urethane?
Thought those were basically plastic
Polished urethane
I am purchasing a new ION Mesmerize and currently using a Columbia Black U Dot Scout, so hopefully I can create a happy marriage with both however, the Scout is what I have been using since the early 90s. I like the look of the Mesmerize. Never have thrown a reactive resin ball so I guess I am gonna have to practice a bit with it.
Hey Brad! If I may ask, what are your pitches?
What is the best urithane ball
Are the bowling lanes open now
I only use reactive balls now but I will always make sure to have a short pin layout reactive ball so I can throw it in the area most urethane balls are being played at with the advantage of going more inside.
Short Pin Reactive is not the same as urethane. Totally different. When the lanes demand urethane, short pin reactive is not the answer.
What they didn't mention in the video is "where" resin reads the lane and "where" urethane reads the lane. This is the main difference between them.
Urethane digs in early and hooks early and then sets and rolls, resin slides through oil then responds aggressively to the friction at the "back of the lane."
This is why resin moves more in the back and less in the front and why urethane moves more in the front and less in the back.
A short pin reactive is still a resin ball, it will skid through the oil and flip in the back, not the shape you want when hook/set/roll is what the pattern calls for.
Only "true urethane" can provide the classic hook/set/roll shape. Follow Brad's advice, get a real urethane ball in your bag. Learn to use it.
@@nordattack Well said..... Thanks for this...
Are the original urethane bowling balls (like the original hammer) different from today's urethane bowling balls
Modern urethane tends to be much more aggressive than the older stuff.
would it be a good idea to use Urethane for my spare ball since I would have more control with it, hopefully increasing my accuracy using Urethane? thanks guys
I wouldent
The first thing I'm doing on June 14th is buying a new ball. I'm torn between the Omega Crux and the Radical Results.
Honestly, if u are considering a storm ball, look at the phaze series, the two and three, are two of the greatest and most transversal when it comes to release and oil patterns, but I’m only 15, so ya know, idk all the ins and outs
Question, I roll a "freebie" ball, am a lefty, and a 1 finger bowler but not quite a two-hander...I have a "funky" style as people say and average a 181 since August. I don't plan to change my throw as I have spent some serious time since I got back into bowling the last few months with a several year break. My ball speed is pretty slow...around 12.5 - 13.5 MPH (if my lanes are correct here..some register far more). I typically have a slow-gradual hook and when I don't tattoo the rack...I seem to always leave the 7 pin or the 4 and 7 together. Either way.... the ball I have now is a 12lb (closer to a 13 really as it weighed about 12.6) It is a freebie ball you get with a league from a while back and doesn't hook much. Now that I am serious..I am looking into a 15lb or 14lb ball and staying with my 1 finger roll or possibly 2.... Since my local shops don;t allow for demos...I am having to "internet" my next purchase.... I will have a video up soon of a recent game so maybe you guys can see how I "roll". Looking for any advice on this urethane vs. reactive.
Can u guys make a video abt how to react to the urathen balls? ik the urathen balls change the oil on the lane but idk how fast it will change n how to react on it. (idk yall already made one)
Sang Hyun Kim depends on how many people are using urethane, what all their rev rates are, and the conditions they’re bowling on
@@akbubs got it thx
Great video, learned a lot🎳
What size balls are these guys using? 15?
Can you put Spanish subtitles on future videos, please.
I'm an old woman and mediocre bowler 150 - 160 average and only bowl a couple of times a week and in a senior tournament now and then. I'm not a big striker, but work to pick up my spares with a few strikes thrown in. I do throw my ball fairly hard for a woman my age (13 - 15 mph). Is there one ball I can use in all conditions and just adjust how I throw it? I used to use an Ebonite Cyclone and was happy with it but they don't make it anymore. It's just too much to lug around more than one ball nowadays.
Hi Brad and Kyle,
I have been struggling using urethane balls when the lane transitions.
Can you please help. You have a lot of experience.
Can you break it down for me. How to make adjustments (board position, angle, speed, etc..) in Short, Medium, and Long pattern throughout the games or when the lane transitions. I would really appreciate if you or anyone who is reading this share their expertise.
Thank you so much!
So should we own one of each? I bowl straight, and been using house balls, should I buy a urethane drilled for straight? Or is there gonna be "Oh no you poor thing" for not hooking?
I haven't bowled for a many years in a league I don't have a ball anymore but I want to get back in it so I'm wondering what ball to use I never used a urethane ball and I don't throw as fast as I used to and my hook isn't as strong but still pretty controllable with a house ball. Would I be learning to bowl all over again if I used a urethane ball
JR , I’ve been bowling for a while but I’m new to hooking the ball using my thumb. What would be a layout that you would recommend a beginner to start with that don’t really know about all that?
Thanks in advance.
2:20 - WTaF??? Who taught you to bowl, lad? If your hand didn't fly outward, but instead ended up next to your right ear after your followthrough, you'd be MUCH more consistent. You're losing a LOT of your consistency by changing the direction of your arm just as you release the ball. Unless you time it PERFECTLY every time, that change in direction is pulling your ball offline to the right, at least a little bit, much of the time. AND, the worst thing, is it's not the same amount every time. ANY amount of skill can always be improved by consistency, unless you throw 300s every game.
3:01 - You need to use my Rhino (the red one, I believe), from about 1990. It had a symmetrical weight block shaped like a dumbbell, so the weight was concentrated near the surface. I had it drilled with the weights parallel to my track, and it used to power throuth ANYTHING due to the increased gyroscopic inertia. Wet lanes, no problem. Light hits, no problem.
@Brad and Kyle, are you able to show or get someone who throws with only two fingers, to demonstrate how to throw a Urethane bowling ball?
In league how do you get around the carried down oil from the dude playing the track with urethane? Nasty wiggle showed up and unless I was uncomfortable deep couldn't get it to roll right downlane... thanks in advance for any advice yall... TNJR
How would you say a plastic spare ball sanded down to 500 grit compares to urethane balls
My All-Road isn’t only a reactive, it’s a hybrid-reactive!
So I have "The Angle" by AMF and the "T Zone Ocean Reef" by Brunswick.... I'm not really sure what type they are but I think "The Angle" is urethane and the "T Zone" is reactive.....anyone out there know for sure? Cuz I'm just guessing
What's the difference between today's urethane balls and old balls like my LT48? And yes, I mean the "old" LT48
I think the 'old' LT48 was a rubber ball with particles in it for hook. When the black and blue hammers came out they were amazing balls. Blue hooked more than black because of coverstock. You could make either hook more or less by sanding or polishing. Today's urethane has newer coverstock but has a REAL core. The old hammers, angles, columbia u-dots had a pankace core that didn't help the ball hook (much anyway). Today's balls have cores that allow the ball to hook more by the way the core makes the ball revolve (and allows the ball to 'flare' so successive revolutions occur on different parts of the ball's surface).
I think I know why he didn’t want Kyle in the video after that close up 😂
I thought urethane was harder, and softer hooked more, due to resin absorbing oil over time it would become less reactive. Just my thought
Who remembers the Columbia U2 ? 😊
Don’t urethane have a harder cover stock than reactive?
According to every durometer rating ive ever seen yes not sure why theyve said softer
Call it a resurgence in urethane
The extra cheesey Cheez It commercial was the perfect opener
Yo I bowled there for state tournament
You guys are dope
My old urethane ball was eaten by a ball return machine, and now I throw plastic and have zero plans to ever go back to Urethane again, I don't like hooking spears, aside from one spear and I can hook my plastic if I have to. As for a reactive ball, well my old urethane ball wasn't anything close to a strike ball, the carry was crap, so unless mine was low quality, my current Reactive ball, even 7 years old, will hook five times what my old urethane ball did.
I've a Reactiveurethane ball.
That’s centers name is frontier bowl
I ❤️ Brunswick U Motion
MARK ROTH FROM BROOKLYN WAS THE BOWLER WHO SHOWED US HOW TO MAKE THE BALL REV UP AND HOOK// THE ORIGINAL CRANKER// WHEN EVERYONE WAS PLAYING A 2 OR 3 BOARD HOOK TOPS, MARK ROTH WOULD USE HIS 4, 5 AND SOMETIMES 6 STEP APPROACH AND CRANK THE SHIT OUT OF THE BALL AND IT WOULD AT TIMES HOOK 10 OR MORE BOARDS// OH YES, BOARDS, FORGOT THEY HAD ACTUAL WOOD ALLEYS!!!! ALL HAIL THE KING OF ALL CRANKERS( MARK ROTH..AND A LITTLE LATER YOU HAD RUDY REVS KASIMAKIS WHO WAS A STRONG GUY WHO WOULD HAVE A BACK SWING THAT WENT ALL THE WAY UP TO THE CEILING, A PAUSE OF 1OR 2 SECONDS AND THEN ON THE DOWN SWING WOULD TEAR THE COVERSTOCK OFF THE BALL, AND YOU WOULD LITERALLY SEE SMOKE COMING FROM THE REVS HE WOULD CREATE AND COULD HOOK THE BALL FROMTHE EXTREME LEFT SIDE OF LANE ALL THE WAY ACCROSS ALMOST INTO THE RIGHT GUTTER AND THEN IT WOULD HOOK ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE POCKET AND NEVER ROLL OUT[ PURE FUCKING POWER] I THINK HE HAD MORE REVS THAN BELMO!!!!!!
I WANNA GO BOWLING SO BADDDD 😭😭😭😭😭. ITS BEEN MONTHS
Its been years...
I refuse to get a urethane ball I see people move to urethane that can no longer effectively throw reactive ...it’s a crutch ...I have a mild hook solid reactive for the short lane or dried out conditions
not talk about having the reactive players "stop whining" about people that throw urethane.
1
This is a matter of opinion sport. Some say Pitch Black good for oil this guy say different. Does the same as any other ball. In my opinion.
You've got some bats in the cave there fella! Lol!!!!!
I liked yall until I met yall in Michigan I tried talking to yall but yall was to good to speak to me .
Pitch Black is the best. Twitch.Tv/vitamin_dtang
*Pitch black in thumbnail*
Twitch.tv/vitamin_dtang