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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- One of my earliest (and most local) customers, Tom, got in touch to ask if I'd set up his new (2nd) Jackson 'Adrian Smith' guitar. This was an eBay purchase and it had arrived with a lot of 'fret slap' which was driving him nuts - and making him wonder if there was something badly wrong with the neck. I think the first thing I was able to do was to reassure him that there wasn't any major issue with the neck; so it wasn't a 'bad buy'. What I did find was loads of 'fret slap' on all the wound strings. There was evidence of some fairly heavy-handed historic fret levelling and using the 'Banana' fret levelling tool quickly revealed just how much. The frets were pretty flattened in places and the neck clearly suffered from a fair amount of bumps and dips. The challenge here was to fret level with primarily a 'fret slap reduction' focus and to achieve that with as little fret metal removal as possible, given how heavily these frets had been hit before.
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I just bought a used one of these and after playing it and giving it a real good look over i have to say for the $375 it cost me it is a stellar instrument! Even if i had bought it new at $550 this still is a incredible deal.
Mine was good to go. the previous owner took care of the things i would have changed(better brand name pu's, quality 5 way switch) The guitar plays and sounds great. It gives my more expensive guitars a run for their money!
These days you can get a lot of guitar for not that much money.
Great video Sam thanks for taking the time to do another video of the sdx
You're welcome
The later year Jacksons and Charvels have the "wheel design" truss rod cut out at the end of the fretboard.
This is the design Ernie ball /music man uses on their guitars and is my favorite for use.
I got so fed up with the poor workmanship that I got rid of mine and bought the USA version. Now that is a phenomenal guit-fiddle
Great explanation of the difference between the StewMac leveller and the "Sam Deeks" Banana™ - I often wondered about that :)
You almost put me off getting one of these, but instead I used this as a check list before buying and I am really happy with it. Great as always Sam but was there a part II with everything done?
That’s a lovely looking guitar and you’re going to make it play as good as it looks, or even better! 👍
Mine played incredible out of the box. only needed the usual slight neck adjustment and my action preference.
I do all my own work so even if it had issues i was not concerned about it for the little money the Jackson cost me.
Awful design to have to take the neck off to adjust the truss rod
I always wondered if this kind of truss rod could be modified with a wheel after some fretboard cut out.
Sure and that is why the newer USA ones have just that.
There's nothing like solving a problem that doesn't exist and create a new problem at the same time - As Jackson (and others) have done by not using the ball-end but having a screw to hopefully crush into the string with a rather small screw
Yamaha SE350 was the only tremolo system I recall where they included an 'anchor' point inside the bridge end to hold the ball; non-ball end of course was then wound onto the tuner post before being locked down at the locking nut. That bridge had small locking blocks... but they were almost completely cosmetic as the bridge worked perfectly fine without them done up or even on the bridge at all (you could lose them all and the bridge would still work fine).
About the neck joining. always make sure the body holes for the neck screws are not so narrow that the screw actually threads through the hole like it does in the neck heel. You want the body holes to be where the screw slides through without any threading. ask any reputable top guitar builder about this.
Yes... I always over-drill my neck pocket holes for that reason.
@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars I figured you were aware of it but you would be shocked at how many that work on guitars never even heard of it.
@@These_go_to_eleven_1959 I learned sort of accidentally while making my own guitars using bolts and threaded inserts. I kept wondering why, despite measuring SO carefully, I ended up not being able to make all 4 bolts line up perfectly onto the inserts. The first would go in fine, and the second... but the third would start to tighten up and often I just couldn't get the 4th to meet the insert. At that point, I realised that holes EXACTLY the same diameter as the bolts were just making assembly nigh on impossible. I started over-drilling at that point with the result that I could now easily assemble the neck / body joint... and also realised that there was absolutely nothing to be gained having a screw acting on both the heel AND the pocket at the same time.
At one point, I was considering buying one of these guitars. I'm glad I didn't. Having to take the neck off to adjust the truss rod?? Madness. When I was heavily gigging in the 1980s and 1990s, a few guitarists I performed with had Floyd Rose bridges. And, in my view, they were more trouble than they were worth. Sure, they look cool. But, for me, it's too many moving parts - which is a recipe for failure/frustration.
Me and a few others use a trick where you can do a neck adjustment on any floyd rose loaded guitar with the truss rod at the heel in about 4 to 5 minutes. you don't even have to take off the strings.
and your opinion of the Floyd bridge is nothing more than "your opinion" since countless pro players including myself have used a floyd with great success for years. I have never had a floyd "fail" in over 30 years of using them.
@@These_go_to_eleven_1959 try the floyd rose special
@@These_go_to_eleven_1959 can you share the trick please
... If I'm not mistaken, this is a dual action truss rod, meaning it has one adjustment at the headstock, and one at the base of the neck (has to be removed to access). Could it have just needed an adjustment??
Really? I've never heard of a truss rod adjusting both ends. Normally 'dual-action' means that the rod adjusts positively in both directions (clockwise-> flat to back-bow, anti-clockwise->relieved / curved).
Hi there. Im having the exact problem with my jackson sdx. Initially i thought its fret buzz so i adjust the action so many times but still have the same problem. My guess is because the neck is compound radius where the lower fretboard is more curved than the upper fretboard. The neckslap is soo obvious on the 6th string. Help😭
The owner should have had you install a better 5 way switch. Those asian made ones are very cheap and have issues after not much use.
that switch is the same ones they use in $80 glarry's, Sx, Jet and many other very cheap guitars.
Seems they all get them from the same source.
i have same guitar and mine needs work im so pissed i even got the guitar.
I dont have the right tools and ive never learned how to do this shit myself and i need to learn now.
can someone please comment and tell me the tools i need ive looked them up but i dont know 100% what tools to get to try to learn how to fix mine.
I feel like you should have tightened the truss rod after you stuck the higher gauge strings on
You should be prepared to make a truss rod adjustment after fitting heavier gauge strings. But on occasion the neck doesn't register the extra loading so no adjustment necessary. On other occasions the change is very slight and brings the neck to exactly where you want it.