Yes, stacked some Klipsch RF-5 and it's sounds 🔥 awesome, truly clean and very lively sounding equipment. Has no problem at all pushing the Klipsch that are stacked all by its self. Can't believe anyone would want anything louder, breaking windows Yamaha makes some very nice gear... it's getting hard finding the good old stuff! :)
I have changed the filter capacitors to 8200 mF/63V. The change is spectacular. The response to the volume control is much more solid than the original capacitors, and the bass damping and power is 180º better. No heat, no intermodulation distortion (works in A class on low output, changing to AB for more powerfull requeriments, as usual, but a very very low power consumption). I recommend to you the change. 50V/6800 uF is so cheap capacitors, more usual on more ordinary and less power output than the Ax396 can offer.
I owned a few Yamaha Integrated and receiver on the way up the Audiophile ladder. I recall my first was a CA-610 II. Many had fair to good serviceable stages and tuners for the money - especially used. I was never satisfied, though, and moved on. The Halcyon days of audio are over, ending in the mid 1990s. A good first step up from here would be a (USED) Hafler DH110 preamp and a SUMO Polaris APT Holmann Bedini BA-802 amplifier. Good stuff from the 80's Enjoy the Music!
Yamaha should really consider making AVRs with closer/better "stereo performance" with their stereo AMPs. Even their Top-End Aventage line AVRs don't have that pure/warm sound of their mid-level stereo AMPs. Although most of us using AVRs as our stereo AMPs, nobody seems to be disturbed by the degradation of stereo sound quality... so, nobody asks for the better "stereo performance" in AVRs. That's why manufacturers don't make any efforts in AVRs with better stereo performance and that's the biggest chance for Yamaha to dominate the audio world again. They can put all those years of experience, finesse and create an ultimate AVR line that can play much better than their AMPs in stereo... We just need to ask, demand and educate people.
Very nice Yamaha amplifier with nice clean and detailed sound. It looks really nice. These amps were produced there from 2005 to 2012, if I'm not mistaken, because I have a catalog from Yamaha from 2005-2006. I have after this the second generation Yamaha A - S701 2×100w into 8 ohms sound its neutral high and mid frecvencies in not high bass is good not too strong. I´m satisfied with it.
Hi again!. Please, what is the little gray cord portion that comes out of at the board at the left side next to the black ribbon, and that is no connection? I see in my unit and i can see in your 396 too. I can't understand... The small circuit that is in the headsink of the left transistors?. My unit does not incorporate that. Maybe a little incorporation by yourself. For what reason?. A hug from Madrid!
Don't be silly! Tone controls? Meh! If you want to tweak the treble then just buy this $1000 cable, if too much bass on that album then switch out to this oxygen free, hand wrapped interconnect (only $700). Tone controls are for poor people! ;)
Yes, the digital crappie soround sound these days is a fraud. I remember when you could turn Dolby OFF with a switch lol. I always turned it off and it sounded much better!
That Tone Control PCB shown at 1:46 looks very very bad. Looks like some liquid has spilled though the upper ventilation grille and it has started to oxidize the circuit traces. If it’s not already a problem, it will be very soon. This is a common problem in all gear that has PCBs with solder-side looking upwards. Component-side is also vulnerable to liquid spills, but not so much. Even if no liquid spills over that board, dust building up over it will be a problem in long term. Dust becomes like a sponge for air humidity, and that promotes slow traces oxidation, eventualy cutting them around solder points. The preventive solution is as easy as covering that Tone Control PCB with a plastic sheet (from a product blister, for example).
I just purchased this same amp it's in mint condition, now I am confused how to connect my 8 ohms jamo 80 watt RMS speakers with this anp ? I have selected correct impedance on the amplifier,but it says connect A +B with 8 ohms speakers, what does A+ B connection means ? Shall I connect both the red wire output of speakers parallel with both the red input of the amplifier or should I connect both the red wire seperately to each red wire input channel of the amplifier?
not sure about this one particularly, but the headphone outputs on amps like this are usually strong. unless you also use passive speakers though, most of the size will be wasted.
@@prokoper ah, terminology 😊 my turntable needs turning up to half way to have any real kick compared to my television going through it. I need a pre amp ?
Modernize Hi-End ): На заводе в БП установлены конденсаторы 6800 мкФ х 56 В. Этого мало. Необходимо установить хотя бы по 15000 мкф х 63 В, зашунтировав пленочными конденсаторами на 3,5 - 5 мкФ. Увеличить емкость С502, С506 до 1000 мкф х 50 В, емкость С501, С505 увеличить до 220 мкФ х 25 В, зашунтировать пленочными 0,47 мкФ. Конденсаторы С103, С104, С106...С113, С115, С116 уменьшить до 50 пФ. MUTE-ключи на транзисторах Q101, Q102, Q503, Q504 выпаять. Электролиты С131, С134 выпаять, вместо них установить перемычки. С122, С124 заменить на неполярные 10 мкФ х 16 В, зашунтировать 0,47 мкФ. С153, С158, С163, С168 заменить на неполярные 10 мкф х 50 В, зашунтировать. С159, С162 заменить на пленочные 0,47 мкФ. С185, С186 заменить на неполярные 47 мкФ х 16 В, зашунтировать. С193, С195 выпаять, заменить перемычками. С507 увеличить до 220 мкФ х 25 В. С508, С512 заменить на неполярные 22 мкФ х 16 В, зашунтировать 0,47 мкФ пленочным.С515, С519 заменить неполярными 220 мкФ х 50 В, шунтировать не нужно.
@@ДмитрийКиприянов-д3й , Вопрос сложный, т.к. сильно зависит от покупаемых компонентов и глубины модернизации... У меня система "2+1" и на сабе стоит отдельный мостовой усь 140Вт, поэтому электролиты по питанию в "YAMAHA" я не менял, т.к. мощности до 20Вт мне хватает с избытком, т.к. акустика у меня номинал 2х20Вт при давлении 8ра одной колонки при 8 Ом! Коммутируется сигнал по "оптике" к DAC и на кроссовер "2+1" . Исходя из этого "YAMAHA" была модернизирована только по цепи сигнальной (заменены электролиты 4 шт на пленку 10мкф) и все электролиты по цепи питания шунтированы пленочными конденсаторами 0,47мкф и 0,1мкф, а электролиты 6800мкфх56в остались по умолчанию . Темброблок не затрагивался вообще, т.к. он у меня не используется. Поэтому затраты на модернизацию "YAMAHA" составили около 7...10$ (пленочные 4шт 10мкф в цену не входят...). Этот усилитель полностью оправдал мои ожидания и вопрос со звуком "Hi-End" у меня закрыт...
No pretenderás que a través de micrófono ambiente pueda sonar como si llevaras unos auriculares puestos y el sonido hubiese sido conectado por línea, no?. Además, la grabación que ha puesto, lleva saturación de graves en orígen, y ha usado el loudness. Ese aparato quizás sea feo, pero lleva un previo de phono poco habitual, distorsión despreciable, damping 240, transistores Sanken, filtro Nippon Chemicon, y todos los componentes de Japón, aunque esté montado en Malasia (como todas las marcas en su época).
I have my Yamaha AX-397 hooked to a pair of Meadowlark Kestrels, I couldn't be happier than this.... love the amazing airy sound.
Lo tuve hace años lo vendi, ahora he vuelto a comprarlo de segundamano en impecable estado equipo muy confiable y buena potencia
Yes, stacked some Klipsch RF-5 and it's sounds 🔥 awesome, truly clean and very lively sounding equipment. Has no problem at all pushing the Klipsch that are stacked all by its self. Can't believe anyone would want anything louder, breaking windows
Yamaha makes some very nice gear... it's getting hard finding the good old stuff! :)
I have changed the filter capacitors to 8200 mF/63V. The change is spectacular. The response to the volume control is much more solid than the original capacitors, and the bass damping and power is 180º better. No heat, no intermodulation distortion (works in A class on low output, changing to AB for more powerfull requeriments, as usual, but a very very low power consumption). I recommend to you the change. 50V/6800 uF is so cheap capacitors, more usual on more ordinary and less power output than the Ax396 can offer.
I owned a few Yamaha Integrated and receiver on the way up the Audiophile ladder. I recall my first was a CA-610 II. Many had fair to good serviceable stages and tuners for the money - especially used. I was never satisfied, though, and moved on. The Halcyon days of audio are over, ending in the mid 1990s. A good first step up from here would be a (USED) Hafler DH110 preamp and a SUMO Polaris APT Holmann Bedini BA-802 amplifier. Good stuff from the 80's Enjoy the Music!
that is your opinion eh! have a listen to a yam a -s100 ....
very good amplifier i have a similar model 15year in use.
Yamaha should really consider making AVRs with closer/better "stereo performance" with their stereo AMPs.
Even their Top-End Aventage line AVRs don't have that pure/warm sound of their mid-level stereo AMPs. Although most of us using AVRs as our stereo AMPs, nobody seems to be disturbed by the degradation of stereo sound quality... so, nobody asks for the better "stereo performance" in AVRs.
That's why manufacturers don't make any efforts in AVRs with better stereo performance and that's the biggest chance for Yamaha to dominate the audio world again.
They can put all those years of experience, finesse and create an ultimate AVR line that can play much better than their AMPs in stereo... We just need to ask, demand and educate people.
I have the A-S801. Sweet integrated amp! Nicely organized internals!
Very nice Yamaha amplifier with nice clean and detailed sound. It looks really nice. These amps were produced there from 2005 to 2012, if I'm not mistaken, because I have a catalog from Yamaha from 2005-2006. I have after this the second generation Yamaha A - S701 2×100w into 8 ohms sound its neutral high and mid frecvencies in not high bass is good not too strong. I´m satisfied with it.
Great amp! I have the ax-892 on showcase. Yamaha did some nice amps back then.
Hi again!. Please, what is the little gray cord portion that comes out of at the board at the left side next to the black ribbon, and that is no connection? I see in my unit and i can see in your 396 too. I can't understand...
The small circuit that is in the headsink of the left transistors?. My unit does not incorporate that. Maybe a little incorporation by yourself. For what reason?. A hug from Madrid!
Does it have crossover? Can I use it as subwoofer amp?
Hi! Fsntastic sound, i have one. Please, what loudspeakers they are playing with ? .Thank you.
Great Presentation - thanks
Made in Malaysia.. I'm from Malaysia 🇲🇾
Hahahaha
Just bought one of these :)
What speakers were you using here...?
4 Klipsch RF stacked works very very well with this amp. Truly.
Good luck!
Ahh loudness and tone controls the good old day...Wish they would come back would get ride of alot of the snake oil..lol
Don't be silly! Tone controls? Meh! If you want to tweak the treble then just buy this $1000 cable, if too much bass on that album then switch out to this oxygen free, hand wrapped interconnect (only $700). Tone controls are for poor people! ;)
Yes, the digital crappie soround sound these days is a fraud. I remember when you could turn Dolby OFF with a switch lol. I always turned it off and it sounded much better!
That Tone Control PCB shown at 1:46 looks very very bad. Looks like some liquid has spilled though the upper ventilation grille and it has started to oxidize the circuit traces. If it’s not already a problem, it will be very soon. This is a common problem in all gear that has PCBs with solder-side looking upwards. Component-side is also vulnerable to liquid spills, but not so much. Even if no liquid spills over that board, dust building up over it will be a problem in long term. Dust becomes like a sponge for air humidity, and that promotes slow traces oxidation, eventualy cutting them around solder points. The preventive solution is as easy as covering that Tone Control PCB with a plastic sheet (from a product blister, for example).
Sir please recommend one good speaker for this
Nice!
I use this with my JBL lx1000 mk2. Amazing sound powerful
I just purchased this same amp it's in mint condition, now I am confused how to connect my 8 ohms jamo 80 watt RMS speakers with this anp ? I have selected correct impedance on the amplifier,but it says connect A +B with 8 ohms speakers, what does A+ B connection means ? Shall I connect both the red wire output of speakers parallel with both the red input of the amplifier or should I connect both the red wire seperately to each red wire input channel of the amplifier?
ВОТ ТАК НАДО ДЕЛАТЬ ОБЗОРЫ!!!!!!!!!! СПАСИБО ЗА ОБЗОР!!!!!!!!! ПОДПИСКА НА!!!!!!!
Would this be a good headphone amp?
not sure about this one particularly, but the headphone outputs on amps like this are usually strong. unless you also use passive speakers though, most of the size will be wasted.
The sound correction should be on flat. Anyway, a good video.
Point of having sound correction is to set up as you like it. It's always flat on any equipment i use, but some people like to play with sound.
What do you mean by 'sound correction".?
@@ArtbyJoeH Bass, treble, loudness at zero. Or, an audio source is connected to the CD input and the CD DIRECT AMP button is on.
@@prokoper ah, terminology 😊
my turntable needs turning up to half way to have any real kick compared to my television going through it. I need a pre amp ?
Good construction.
Yamaha è sempre stata una supermarca forse anche meglio della Sanyo. Forse
Modernize Hi-End ):
На заводе в БП установлены конденсаторы 6800 мкФ х 56 В. Этого мало. Необходимо установить хотя бы по 15000 мкф х 63 В, зашунтировав пленочными конденсаторами на 3,5 - 5 мкФ. Увеличить емкость С502, С506 до 1000 мкф х 50 В, емкость С501, С505 увеличить до 220 мкФ х 25 В, зашунтировать пленочными 0,47 мкФ.
Конденсаторы С103, С104, С106...С113, С115, С116 уменьшить до 50 пФ.
MUTE-ключи на транзисторах Q101, Q102, Q503, Q504 выпаять.
Электролиты С131, С134 выпаять, вместо них установить перемычки. С122, С124 заменить на неполярные 10 мкФ х 16 В, зашунтировать 0,47 мкФ. С153, С158, С163, С168 заменить на неполярные 10 мкф х 50 В, зашунтировать. С159, С162 заменить на пленочные 0,47 мкФ. С185, С186 заменить на неполярные 47 мкФ х 16 В, зашунтировать. С193, С195 выпаять, заменить перемычками. С507 увеличить до 220 мкФ х 25 В. С508, С512 заменить на неполярные 22 мкФ х 16 В, зашунтировать 0,47 мкФ пленочным.С515, С519 заменить неполярными 220 мкФ х 50 В, шунтировать не нужно.
Сколько стоимость деталей на апгрейд?
@@ДмитрийКиприянов-д3й , Вопрос сложный, т.к. сильно зависит от покупаемых компонентов и глубины модернизации... У меня система "2+1" и на сабе стоит отдельный мостовой усь 140Вт, поэтому электролиты по питанию в "YAMAHA" я не менял, т.к. мощности до 20Вт мне хватает с избытком, т.к. акустика у меня номинал 2х20Вт при давлении 8ра одной колонки при 8 Ом! Коммутируется сигнал по "оптике" к DAC и на кроссовер "2+1" . Исходя из этого "YAMAHA" была модернизирована только по цепи сигнальной (заменены электролиты 4 шт на пленку 10мкф) и все электролиты по цепи питания шунтированы пленочными конденсаторами 0,47мкф и 0,1мкф, а электролиты 6800мкфх56в остались по умолчанию . Темброблок не затрагивался вообще, т.к. он у меня не используется. Поэтому затраты на модернизацию "YAMAHA" составили около 7...10$ (пленочные 4шт 10мкф в цену не входят...). Этот усилитель полностью оправдал мои ожидания и вопрос со звуком "Hi-End" у меня закрыт...
i have same amp.
നല്ല പെർഫോമൻസ് ആണോ
I have AX 496 sound disappoint me 🔊😪
I don't have problems what is wrong?
@@tuffgong3248 they like to Moan then not respond !
@@ArtbyJoeH yes true. I still use this Yamaha everyday it's very good. I would like a Denon one day but happy with the Yamaha:))
well
sound wrong brummmmmmmmmmmmmmm
No pretenderás que a través de micrófono ambiente pueda sonar como si llevaras unos auriculares puestos y el sonido hubiese sido conectado por línea, no?. Además, la grabación que ha puesto, lleva saturación de graves en orígen, y ha usado el loudness. Ese aparato quizás sea feo, pero lleva un previo de phono poco habitual, distorsión despreciable, damping 240, transistores Sanken, filtro Nippon Chemicon, y todos los componentes de Japón, aunque esté montado en Malasia (como todas las marcas en su época).
I've got SL-P202A and DZ120... but THE NATURAL SOUND with this amp..that's with the TDA1541A (or even a TDA1543)... you can trust me ! 😁