I just watched your video, I found it extremely hopeful, specially the trick with sealing the tab, I cannot believe how easily that seal tab shared off. Please keep the M35A2 videos coming. Thank you.
Oh my gosh this was an excellent video, I was going along & then I got shocked when you sheered off that tap on your gold seal. Holy cows I’m surprised it sheered so easily.
I just completed replacing one of my rear hub seals today and checked in with the two videos to make sure I was not missing anything. Ill let the truck sit now for the RTV to cure a bit
As you know with my truck it's helpful when they actually put the outer seal in it and pack the bearings instead of putting it together like its oil bath bearings.
Thank you for the videos! This helped me with doing the hubs on my M35A3 for the first time. Any opinion regarding bending a tab over the inner nut like the TM says?My truck actually wasn't assembled with a tab bent on the inner nut.
i'm no full time mechanic but fix my own stuff, m/bikes, cars hot rod etc..a couple of thoughts here..order extra locking tabs and place one between seal and nut, then torque, add second tab and place locking nut and tighten...also the problem with adding grease or oil is you are effectively creating a motorcycle clutch effect where the oil acts like a glue, this is how wet clutches grip, by oil...just a thought, hope it helps...great videos though, regards Jason.England UK.
Wet clutch oils have friction modifiers in them to cause traction. Bearing grease has friction modifiers in it to inhibit traction and friction and heat. The secondary tab isn't a bad idea except there isn't really room for it within the threaded portion of the spindle.
@@tacticalrepair ah bugger, wonder if there is anything that size that uses shims?..thanks for reply, these uploads are superb, a great help too many i'm sure...i am looking at a M35A2 whistler at the mo, just unsure whether to take the leap..i love em.
So I have the BMY 5 ton and it did not come with that tabbed seal but the seal kit did. It seems that the tabbed seal fits it well so I installed it. Hopefully I did not give my truck an extra trisomic gene but I do not see the difference with what you did on the deuce and half
You need to remove the seal. On the 939 series 5 tons the outer bearing is lubed by gear oil from the tube and the inner bearing is grease packed. That seal will actually cut oil flow off from the bearing. Sorry to give you the bad news bud, but at least it isn't too much work. Now on all the previous body style 5 tons, you would've been right.
Would be a good idea to run the nut down without the seal to seat the bearing that has been repacked, first. Then put the seal on and make sure the face of the inner race has no grease on it. Great video !
I am waiting on parts from "Big Mike"also!! Started on front axle here!! Thanks for the video, gives me a damn good idea what I am looking at when I tackle the rear end! Subscribed, appreciate it man!
I really like the way you explain things. Whatever job I need to do, I check to see if you have a video on it first - so thanks! What are your thoughts on filling the space between the inner and outer bearings completely full of grease? Good idea or waste of money?
It's a must if you live in an area with any humidity. If you leave airspace in there it collects condensation which will eventually increase until it washes the grease out of the bearings and rusts the bearings and races. I've seen it way too many times.
Bro is it possible ( if it would help ) to make or find a thin washer to place between the seal and nut? In fact use the old seal that broke and cut the rubber off it and use the broken seal as a shim?
It would be interesting to see if Flex Seal would work, probably not enough to risk using it over the Gear oil Specific RTV you recommended. Is there a torque spec the Korean Manufacturer recommends? Has anyone here tried gluing a CV joint boot back together?
My experience with flex seal is that it is largely a gimmick. Poor quality sealant. Newstar gives pretty much zero information on anything. You are wasting your time and money trying to glue a boot together. Itll come back apart immediately.
Is it possible to have a hardened washer sourced to go in between the nut and the seal so the nut doesn't dig into it? I have seen people use a seal that had the tab broken off. They just used gear oil specific sealant and sealed the bearing to the tube. Then coated each nut with the same and filled the keyway.
ill be doing this exact job on my "new to me" M35A2 on all 6 hubs. They seem fine but, you know. That said, it sure seems like there should be a washer WITH KEYWAY between the nut and seal to protect the seal from damage. Im sure there is not one there, but would it hurt to make some for this? I have the tooling to do so.
Should slide off and on without much effort. Sometimes you gotta get behind them with a screwdriver or a chisel and tap to unseat it. Most I've done you can just grab the bearing and pull it off with your hand.
man it must be humid as hell in your shop, do you use any fans or anything? i know you probably dont run em while you film but just curious. i got a shitty box fan i use under my shed it works decent, makes more noise than air though lol
How long do you let the silicone cure after torguing the axle nuts and locking the tab? Do you need to let it cure overnight before finishing the service and reinstalling the axle shaft?
I have a dumb question, do you need to fill the space between the 2 bearings, or do you just installed the freshly packed bearings that are full of grease?
Is it possible to use an old outer seal, cut off the rubber and just use the washer part in between the new seal and inner nut to avoid spinning the new seal?
Nah it does the same thing. You just have to be careful with it. If you want to use a torque wrench, the inner nut torque is 50 lb/ft, then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn and then install the lock washer and nut.
quick question, are the 5 tons built the same ? ---greased rear bearings with gasketed hubs as to keep the rear axle oil seperate from the hub. I am looking at my first purchase of a 5 ton troop carrier and wanting to know everything about properly maintaining these units. Yes it is kind of a toy, but the wife wants one, " I love her so much" ----- of course she will be getting one for her birthday ! Back to the question, I saw you fight the rear outer seal, shearing the rear tab, and was hoping the 5 tonners were full floaters, but can't find anything on utube. can you help me out with this info. Thanks
I'm not sure about the older 5 tons, but the 939 series are a greased outer bearing and an oiled inner, or maybe vice versa. It's been years. Because of the CTIS they're separated.
@@tacticalrepair I assumed so, but wanted to verify; because when pulled apart there was almost next to none in the actual hub, bearings were still holding grease good. Goes to show, just because the previous guy said he serviced them; doesn’t mean it was done right!
Rockwell has them. Western candian Rockwell has them. They are expensive but they will solve your issue. I got some at mv shows brand new in packaging.
Quick question. Looking to get some seal kits for my front and rear axles. I'm seeing that most rear axle 'kits' have a inner and outer seal but also an axle tube seal. I would imagine that the axle tube seal would keep....theoretically...any gear oil from even getting to the hub. Would you recommend replacing those as well when doing a hub service or only if there is obvious leaking oil?
GAA is about the lowest quality grease a civilian can purchase. I'll use anything but GAA. For the military they are concerned with cost over quality. I prefer quality over cost. Also, be advised that this truck came from the air force with black lithium grease in the hubs anyway, which saved me having to completely clean everything spotless before packing again. The black grease is cheaper than my red #2 I usually use anyway.
@@tacticalrepair Ah, so, the red grease you buy by the 5 gallon bucket is different and better than Gov acquired stuff. I watched your other vid on packing bearings and thought that grease was "GAA".
my rear axle hub is dripping a little, can that be fixed by simply removing the bolts, pulling the axle out and putting a gasket or the gear oil silicone on? the axles on these can be removed without even jacking it up or removing the tire right? I would appreciate the help. thanks
You are going far beyond what is necessary to clean for this procedure. You can also use cork instead of silicone, and it lasts longer. Cork is the original material used.
If ur using those seals correctly and there breaking that means they are defective and the company should be held accountable. No reason u shouldn't be able to torque them 2 spec.
@@tacticalrepair That's my point it's 1 thing if they are of lesser quality and don't last or work as well but, it's defective if breaks while installing and you did it correctly. That's just my 2 cents
The issue is limited manufacturers and unfortunately the majority of those are now overseas. Any metal or steel not from the US is always questionable in quality.
WHY DONT YOU TIGHTEN DOWN THE BEARING AND SET YOUR PELOAD THEN LOSSEN THE NUT AND INSTALL THE SEAL THEN THE NUT, SO-THE BEARING ARE SEATED ALREADY JUST SAYING
On these trucks I've found that most times when you back the nut off, the weight of the drum being offset from the centerline of the hub walks the bearing off following the nut. The outer bearings never fit the spindle snug enough to retain themselves, and not because they're worn. They were just made that way. Now the inner bearing is a different story.
Your videos are excellent and valuable to anyone who owns a Deuce. Thanks for making them, sir.
I just watched your video, I found it extremely hopeful, specially the trick with sealing the tab, I cannot believe how easily that seal tab shared off. Please keep the M35A2 videos coming. Thank you.
Oh my gosh this was an excellent video, I was going along & then I got shocked when you sheered off that tap on your gold seal. Holy cows I’m surprised it sheered so easily.
I just completed replacing one of my rear hub seals today and checked in with the two videos to make sure I was not missing anything. Ill let the truck sit now for the RTV to cure a bit
...maybe fine Emory cloth on a flat surface to “rub” the burrs off the back side of the nut might help from grabbing the seal before greasing it...?
Glad I found your channel I’m hoping to join the m35a2 Community soon I’m learning all I can before I buy 👍👍👍
Same here
As you know with my truck it's helpful when they actually put the outer seal in it and pack the bearings instead of putting it together like its oil bath bearings.
ouch, thats aready making me pissy and i didnt even do the job, you did lol
Thank you for the videos! This helped me with doing the hubs on my M35A3 for the first time. Any opinion regarding bending a tab over the inner nut like the TM says?My truck actually wasn't assembled with a tab bent on the inner nut.
It absolutely needs to be bent over. That's what locks everything together.
i love watching your videos i dont even have one lol but some day i will they are very rare here in ireland
I wrapped some electrical tape around the threaded area and it kept all the grease from getting in the groove.
just watched it again for the 3rd time Thanks again Bro
i'm no full time mechanic but fix my own stuff, m/bikes, cars hot rod etc..a couple of thoughts here..order extra locking tabs and place one between seal and nut, then torque, add second tab and place locking nut and tighten...also the problem with adding grease or oil is you are effectively creating a motorcycle clutch effect where the oil acts like a glue, this is how wet clutches grip, by oil...just a thought, hope it helps...great videos though, regards Jason.England UK.
Wet clutch oils have friction modifiers in them to cause traction. Bearing grease has friction modifiers in it to inhibit traction and friction and heat.
The secondary tab isn't a bad idea except there isn't really room for it within the threaded portion of the spindle.
@@tacticalrepair ah bugger, wonder if there is anything that size that uses shims?..thanks for reply, these uploads are superb, a great help too many i'm sure...i am looking at a M35A2 whistler at the mo, just unsure whether to take the leap..i love em.
@@jasoncook6053 do it
So I have the BMY 5 ton and it did not come with that tabbed seal but the seal kit did. It seems that the tabbed seal fits it well so I installed it. Hopefully I did not give my truck an extra trisomic gene but I do not see the difference with what you did on the deuce and half
You need to remove the seal. On the 939 series 5 tons the outer bearing is lubed by gear oil from the tube and the inner bearing is grease packed. That seal will actually cut oil flow off from the bearing. Sorry to give you the bad news bud, but at least it isn't too much work.
Now on all the previous body style 5 tons, you would've been right.
Would be a good idea to run the nut down without the seal to seat the bearing that has been repacked, first. Then put the seal on and make sure the face of the inner race has no grease on it.
Great video !
THANKS GARRET FROM CHILE✌
I am waiting on parts from "Big Mike"also!! Started on front axle here!! Thanks for the video, gives me a damn good idea what I am looking at when I tackle the rear end! Subscribed, appreciate it man!
Thanks for breaking the flange so we could see how easily it's done. Where did you get the OEM parts for your secret stash?
I bought them from an individual at the Georgia military vehicle rally a couple years back.
I really like the way you explain things. Whatever job I need to do, I check to see if you have a video on it first - so thanks!
What are your thoughts on filling the space between the inner and outer bearings completely full of grease? Good idea or waste of money?
It's a must if you live in an area with any humidity. If you leave airspace in there it collects condensation which will eventually increase until it washes the grease out of the bearings and rusts the bearings and races. I've seen it way too many times.
So I just found and purchased OEM style rear hub seals since I anticipate a run on them soon. 🤣 Price was about $10 shipped each.
🤣
Thanks for not swearing every other breath. As a new deuce owner I found your tips helpful.
Sometimes I do, but not often. Glad I could help.
Bro is it possible ( if it would help ) to make or find a thin washer to place between the seal and nut? In fact use the old seal that broke and cut the rubber off it and use the broken seal as a shim?
Maybe
It would be interesting to see if Flex Seal would work, probably not enough to risk using it over the Gear oil Specific RTV you recommended.
Is there a torque spec the Korean Manufacturer recommends?
Has anyone here tried gluing a CV joint boot back together?
My experience with flex seal is that it is largely a gimmick. Poor quality sealant.
Newstar gives pretty much zero information on anything.
You are wasting your time and money trying to glue a boot together. Itll come back apart immediately.
Is it possible to have a hardened washer sourced to go in between the nut and the seal so the nut doesn't dig into it? I have seen people use a seal that had the tab broken off. They just used gear oil specific sealant and sealed the bearing to the tube. Then coated each nut with the same and filled the keyway.
The washer- maybe.
The other part sounds real sketchy and doesn't sound like it would work but ok.
you could probably use an old seal as a washer? also cork can be used as well but its more of a pain in the arse
So these don't need oil bathed or oil added into the hub?
Correct. They're just grease packed hubs.
ill be doing this exact job on my "new to me" M35A2 on all 6 hubs. They seem fine but, you know. That said, it sure seems like there should be a washer WITH KEYWAY between the nut and seal to protect the seal from damage. Im sure there is not one there, but would it hurt to make some for this? I have the tooling to do so.
Do it. It's a great idea. Just needs to be tough and thin.
@@tacticalrepair yeah, looking at your video it appears there is not much room left over after the nuts are in place. .
Hi Garrett, so the proper torque for the inside nut on the hub is 50 ft lbs and outer is 70 ft lbs.?
No. Spec is torque inner to 50 lb/ft and then back off 1/4 turn. Outer nut is torqued to 150 and then locked down.
How does one change the inner hub bearing?? Can’t do the old oven/freezer trick with these things it’s to big lol
Should slide off and on without much effort. Sometimes you gotta get behind them with a screwdriver or a chisel and tap to unseat it. Most I've done you can just grab the bearing and pull it off with your hand.
man it must be humid as hell in your shop, do you use any fans or anything? i know you probably dont run em while you film but just curious. i got a shitty box fan i use under my shed it works decent, makes more noise than air though lol
I use fans. You can hear them in many of my videos.
@@tacticalrepair weird, i dont recall ever hearing em. mostly hear the rain patter but all is well, keep up the great work dude!
How long do you let the silicone cure after torguing the axle nuts and locking the tab? Do you need to let it cure overnight before finishing the service and reinstalling the axle shaft?
Ideally yes, but you really only need to be sure you don't move the truck before then. It will cure even with the axle shafts installed.
I have a dumb question, do you need to fill the space between the 2 bearings, or do you just installed the freshly packed bearings that are full of grease?
Yes, fill it.
Is it possible to use an old outer seal, cut off the rubber and just use the washer part in between the new seal and inner nut to avoid spinning the new seal?
Nah it does the same thing. You just have to be careful with it. If you want to use a torque wrench, the inner nut torque is 50 lb/ft, then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn and then install the lock washer and nut.
quick question, are the 5 tons built the same ? ---greased rear bearings with gasketed hubs as to keep the rear axle oil seperate from the hub. I am looking at my first purchase of a 5 ton troop carrier and wanting to know everything about properly maintaining these units. Yes it is kind of a toy, but the wife wants one, " I love her so much" ----- of course she will be getting one for her birthday ! Back to the question, I saw you fight the rear outer seal, shearing the rear tab, and was hoping the 5 tonners were full floaters, but can't find anything on utube. can you help me out with this info.
Thanks
I'm not sure about the older 5 tons, but the 939 series are a greased outer bearing and an oiled inner, or maybe vice versa. It's been years. Because of the CTIS they're separated.
Do you “pack” the hub with grease like when doing the fronts?
Yes, always.
@@tacticalrepair I assumed so, but wanted to verify; because when pulled apart there was almost next to none in the actual hub, bearings were still holding grease good. Goes to show, just because the previous guy said he serviced them; doesn’t mean it was done right!
Great job, Thanks
So the big question is...where do you get oem type outer seals?
Gotta call around and look. New seals are fine you just have to be careful installing them.
Rockwell has them. Western candian Rockwell has them. They are expensive but they will solve your issue. I got some at mv shows brand new in packaging.
Bro is that fine locking just one tabs?
Quick question. Looking to get some seal kits for my front and rear axles. I'm seeing that most rear axle 'kits' have a inner and outer seal but also an axle tube seal. I would imagine that the axle tube seal would keep....theoretically...any gear oil from even getting to the hub. Would you recommend replacing those as well when doing a hub service or only if there is obvious leaking oil?
No tube seals on the rear hubs, and no place to install them if you wanted to.
And the front tube seals I would certainly replace if you're that far in whether they are leaking or not.
Thank you
I noticed that you used different grease than GAA... is there a reason or does it not matter?
GAA is about the lowest quality grease a civilian can purchase. I'll use anything but GAA. For the military they are concerned with cost over quality. I prefer quality over cost.
Also, be advised that this truck came from the air force with black lithium grease in the hubs anyway, which saved me having to completely clean everything spotless before packing again. The black grease is cheaper than my red #2 I usually use anyway.
@@tacticalrepair Ah, so, the red grease you buy by the 5 gallon bucket is different and better than Gov acquired stuff. I watched your other vid on packing bearings and thought that grease was "GAA".
@@dswgr70 right. That was red #2 grease. I have a couple tubes of GAA on the shelf for show but I have no intention of using them.
@@dswgr70 red grease is the way to go
my rear axle hub is dripping a little, can that be fixed by simply removing the bolts, pulling the axle out and putting a gasket or the gear oil silicone on? the axles on these can be removed without even jacking it up or removing the tire right? I would appreciate the help. thanks
If it is dripping then the grease has already been washed out by gear oil. Need to pull it, clean it all, and pack it.
Ok thank you, that's what I will do, take it all apart clean and repack, best to check everything anyways since I just bought the truck.
Thanks again
This thing with the tabs breaking is bogus. Is there an alternate supplier?
Unfortunately not. You just have to be careful with them.
Great video Garrett .. so if I want to convert my A3 hubs ... I’m just knocking out the retainer ?and adding a seal, race ,and bearing (inner )?
No you actually have to change the entire hub from my understanding ( never done it) because the inside pocket is machined out.
Slowly step on it Garrett, lol
I meant the silicon tube
You are going far beyond what is necessary to clean for this procedure. You can also use cork instead of silicone, and it lasts longer. Cork is the original material used.
If ur using those seals correctly and there breaking that means they are defective and the company should be held accountable. No reason u shouldn't be able to torque them 2 spec.
Soft steel. Well known issue.
@@tacticalrepair That's my point it's 1 thing if they are of lesser quality and don't last or work as well but, it's defective if breaks while installing and you did it correctly. That's just my 2 cents
The issue is limited manufacturers and unfortunately the majority of those are now overseas. Any metal or steel not from the US is always questionable in quality.
how else are they supposed to stay in business? lol
@@johndowe7003 My bad I forgot about that hahha
WHY DONT YOU TIGHTEN DOWN THE BEARING AND SET YOUR PELOAD THEN LOSSEN THE NUT AND INSTALL THE SEAL THEN THE NUT, SO-THE BEARING ARE SEATED ALREADY JUST SAYING
On these trucks I've found that most times when you back the nut off, the weight of the drum being offset from the centerline of the hub walks the bearing off following the nut. The outer bearings never fit the spindle snug enough to retain themselves, and not because they're worn. They were just made that way. Now the inner bearing is a different story.