If your needing Tahoe to ride , then by all means fix it first , I used to run a 955 just like that when I was fifteen and sixteen , I would certainly like to see it fixed back right with it's bucket in the dirt and making some money ..... A little advice , when you start working it hard in a tight place , get ready to do some sweating , that's a lot of hot metal to be setting on top of .
Having been a diesel mechanic for 50 yrs before I retired, I would check the head bolts for correct tightness, if they are okay, I'm afraid the head will have to come off to cure the leaks. Well done on the work though, I really enjoy seeing how you overcome problems. Keep the Vids coming. Regards Graham (UK)
Yup, I second that emotion... because if you don't .... you will be emoting at yourself the whole time you're working on it .... AGAIN ... Did you get a head gasket from Cat? the only head gasket I advise putting gasket sealer on (Permatex Aviation 300 only) get new water jacket ferrules and seals (goes between the head and block) ... copper ferrules CAN be reused so use caution when removing .... seals are updated to a new type o polymer which replace the leaky old styled rubberish seals. NOTE: after your first heat cool cycle on the new head gasket ... pop valve cover and re-toque the head bolts to final toque spec.
@@bobblack3870 just looking at this again, I think the old head gasket has already expired due to age and the materials available when it was originally made.
@Salvage Workshop, I have been binge watching this whole series over the last few days, love it. But no update since this Part 17, 9 months ago? Has there been something mentioned in another one of your series which I haven't seen yet? Would love more updates on this series. I was gutted to get to 17 thinking I have 9 more months of possible content to binge, and I have come to the end.
For 12 volt just run a line from the positive of the first battery in series. It's only the second battery that gives you 24 volts. Many 24 volt machines have lots of 12 volt accessories. I do it all the time on heavy equipment and trucks. Keep up the extremely interesting videos.
@@robjustlooking8729 That 24V alternator/regulator is the whole key to the simple configuration. If he stays with the 12V charging system, then then the batteries will need to be in parallel for charging and series for starting - a much more complex switching problem.
Yup we have a couple of dozers that are 24v start but all the cab controls and lights are 12v. In ours the 24v cable runs direct to the starter and that's it. Another line runs off the first batt with 12v and runs into the cab to power all the rest including the starters solenoid
In the moment you asked abt the head gasket, it's not a question anymore: Make it. You will feel better and you sleep better. And yes, lets look the Tahoe! Regards from Germany.
You answered it yourself. I always ask the question, "will it be any easier any other time than it is now?" Then comes, "well I might as well as". So there you go. I really like your decision to keep the pony in it as well as the new starter. Regards, Solomon
Thank you for telling how the Pony Motor could be used to pre-heat the engine on a cold day to make starting easier. It goes to show how much though went into the design of this machine. Your explanations as to what you are doing , and what will be done next are logical and methodical. I don't want to "blow smoke" at you, but yours is one of the best channels on TH-cam! Keep up the good work!
Head gasket now. You don't want to button everything up and then go back and tear it apart to fix a leak you can access now. Love your videos...you do a great job explaining and educating as you go. The dogs are great too!!
Stumbled upon your videos and binge watched all of “Old Red”. Love the old iron and your great attitude. Looking forward to working my way through the playlists.
i agree on the fact that you have "OLD RED" already apart, it seems like a no-brainer to do the head gasket now purely for longevity of the machine, i really enjoy watching the videos!
Well the comments r telling u yer get that head off and that sump u can look for nothing there is never a better time than now and I will watch u do that 4 wheel drive and now I will get on with my honda crv clutch in my back yard been at it since I was 17 still spanner ing now 70 enjoy it Google luck from uk
I'm not a mechanical expert or engine guy, but it seems that at every step along the journey of getting Ol' Red back up and running you've removed various parts and in *every* one of them you've found something that made you glad you did it. This beast is Korean War vintage, pushing 70 years old now and just based on that it's probably well worth it to take it apart, refurbish everything inside, and then slap it back together again. It'll be in great working order, but most importantly you'll *know* it's in great working order because you did the work on it! :)
That track drive sprocket that nearly took your leg off when it let gos is testament to this machine's hard life. Why would the cylinder head be any different? YKIMS. ;)
A man I knew got one for $15500 non running; refurbished it and buil;t the area for houses (2) and a barn and outbuildings. Then sold the fine running old beast for $25000
Gotta say i really love this old red series.👍🏻 I did my trade in engine machining and assembly straight after school, for 12 years. Now I'm a plant operator here in Australia for 14 years, so these videos encompass everything i love. Keep up the great work. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
I know exactly where you are coming from with organization. My kids laugh at me about my obsessive organization and labeling everything in bins. But I always find anything I have in a moment's notice. Or I can tell them right where to get at whatever they are looking for in my shop.
ive lost a few finger nails putting heavy starter motors in when i was a young strong kid in the 70s so felt for you, please keep it up as i enjoy your videos very much.
Definitely make a series on the Tahoe fixing. Concerning the head on the tractor motor, although there is an old saying that if it’s running don’t mess with it; on your case, meticulous as you are, I wouldn’t hesitate to say, DO IT. Greetings from Brazil.
I was always taught that when something has been opened up fix it. Saves time and usually money in the long run. Good videos and love to see old things brought back to life. These are the machines that built a lot of America and it's a shame to see them turned to junk and put out like old People
absolutely top video no waffle gets to the point knows his stuff interesting projects no crappy music so keep up your excellent work as I really enjoyed it
You nailed it! He isn't showing a bunch of tattoos, with colored hair using filthy profanity trying to develope a brand while all we want is wrenching. Cheers!
You won't know until you take the cover off while there's nothing in the way, at the end of the day it's a learning curve. All the best. Great job so far...
I've gotten sucked in on these videos. I'm up to 17 on old Red so heck yeah, make it brand new. I'd love to see you redo the Tahoe, too! I even subscribed! I am 73 and I'll never be doing anything like this but I'm loving you doing it! Thanks! I love dogs an kids so I'm with ya all the way!
This has been an amazing series, 100 percent invested in this series now 😂. If I where you, I would definitely go ahead and replace the head gasket. If it’s already leaking and it could only get worse. You already removed a lot crap that’s in the way. Yeah it’s a little more work, but could definitely save you a headache down the road. Get it done bud......
The answer to all of your questions is Yes. I love watching your videos and look forward to the new ones especially Old Red. Your dogs are a great bonus in the vids. I say do the head gasket but full disclosure, I say that because I want more videos of this project.
Yes do it now, with having so much off now is the time since it is already leaking. If you don't, the leak will get worse then it will be a bear to pull everything back off. Just my 2 cents on the Tahoe, there are so many channels that work on the newer cars and trucks. I come here to see the more unusual. I mean really how many other channels are working on old forklifts and crawler loaders? Back in the day my dad operated a grader, not sure the brand, it was huge but only had 4 wheels not 6. It had 4 wheel steering and started with a pony motor. I always wondered how it worked, now thanks to you I know.
hmm. the head gasket is a tricky one. this is definitely the time to do it if you have the resources and time, but I think you have to prepare yourself to open a can of worms :P if you plan on using the machine I would definitely want a machine that didn't leak!
FOR SIMPLE 12V/24V: You can simply connect the 12V motor to one 12V battery and the 24V motor to two 12V batteries in series, no switch required. The only drawback is that if you ran both on a regular basis the battery supplying the 12V circuit and half of the 24V would drain much faster than the other battery. I don't think this would really be an issue if you are mostly using the 24V motor and the 12V only occasionally. If you were using the 12V regularly you could of course physically swap the batteries from time to time to balance their discharge rate, or even have a switch to alternate the 12V circuit between the two batteries. This might be overkill however. If you have the room, you could simply install 3 12V batteries, one supplying the 12V motor and the other two connected in series to the 24V motor. The advantage being that you have completely isolated circuits, but because all three batteries are the same type, you could physically swap them around if one were to fail giving you some redundancy.
exactly, just put the two batteries in serial (- of Battery one to + of Battery two) for the 12V circuit you just use the connectors of Battery one, for the 24V circuit you use + of Battery one and - of Battery two. I agree that it should be overkill to automatically alternate between the two batteries, but maybe create it in a way that you can easily change where the 12V-Circuit is connected.
This might be months later, but just get that old piece of equipment to charge at a 24 volt rate, and charge both batteries as if they were one 24 volt battery.
The problem is space, on a track loader especially. Just not much room to stick 3 batteries, or even two. And you can’t simply switch the positive feed for 12 volts between batteries. You have to physically swap the ground as well or you’ll go from 12 volts to 24 when you move the positive cable. It would have been a lot simpler to use a 12 volt starter ☹️
I would do everything you can do to "Old Red" while he is disassembled. Dogs, other rebuild videos or home repair whatever you do we (subs who watch ALL your posts) will watch and some won't like it but the vast majority will support you.
No problem. You put 2 batteries in series to the starter 24v . The 12 v you just connect to one of the batteries. That way you have 2 system with 2 different voltage but connected together.
I would like to suggest finding another starter cone and removing less material and using larger corner radii. If the cone deflects the end bearing will wear quicker or may possibly bind. If the cone breaks things can go really bad. Additions and/or corrections to this post are welcome.
I repair various drum kits and I label spare parts like that. I also put a brief description in a XL spreadsheet so I can just check that before I have to spend money on spares. I love your dedication to solving each problem. Brilliant!
The consensus is to do the head gasket on “ol red”. As to the content do what you do we will watch. Been watching when you were doing just tool stuff and cleanup and fixing stuff around the shop and house. Was on the fence about the tractor, but now I get upset that it takes to long to see the next thing... 🤫😂👍👍
Old semi trucks had a series parallel switch that accommodated a 24 volt starter and a 12 lighting and accessories you might start there, they were phased out in the early 80s they charge both 12 batteries at the same time
What you need to do is connect the two 12v batteries in series, then connect the negative of one battery to the chassis ground and ground of both starters. Then the positive of the second battery in series (24v) will go to the contactor of the giant Diesel starter. Then the midpoint of the two batteries (positive of the battery connected directly to chassis ground) will be your 12v point. The 12v from that will go directly to the contactor of the Pony motor starter. Then all you need to do is have a toggle switch that changes which starter contactor gets energized or have two different buttons to engage one of the two starters. You will probably need to use the 12v to engage the pony motor starter contactor and the 24v to engage the Diesel starter. So wire the two buttons or switches approprietly. Lastly you just need to have a 24v alternator to charge the batteries in series and the SLA chemistry will do all the balancing you may need by itself.
Its better to open the can to see if its full of worms than have them all escape at an inconvenient time after you've spent hours putting it all back together!
Just has a added note, regarding the starter when you tested it, I noticed you had the pos. battery feed on the end body stud. This should be a earth return (assuming it is neg return), the small wire from the solenoid to this stud allows the solenoid to work (neg return), that bracket you call a support bracket on the solenoid is actually the feed to the starter motor after the bendix has engaged. The pos wire from the battery should go to the other large solenoid stud. To operate the starter, a pos feed should go to the other small solenoid connector (not the wire that goes to the earth stud) Hope this helps
I was thinking the exact same thing.....Stud on the can is -/negative...main post on solenoid is main +/positive....inner post on the solenoid,is solenoid/bendex trigger and outer,small post on the solenoid is an option lead,that energizes when key is in start position,to either "throw" a 3 wire fuel shut off or to energize a murphy switch....UNLESS, its a reverse polarity setup,which I've seen in the past,but that's usually seen on an engine that uses a generator/starter combo ..I think he needs to confirm his wiring,before his hard work goes up in smoke
WHEN YOU ARE WIRING THE NEW STARTER, I RECOMMEND PUTTING A KEYED INLINE “DEAD MAN” SWITCH. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO SAVE THE BATTERY FROM DRAINING IF ANY OPTION IS LEFT RUNNING, THERE IS A DEAD SHORT, AND PREVENT AN KIDS OR UN-NICE PERSON FROM USING THE POOR OLD LADY.
Your can of worms opened up the day you walked in that old barn. With everything you've already done, it would be foolish to not replace the head gasket because if its already leaking, its not going to get better and your choices are to do it now or do it later. I dont know why im so vested in this machine but ive watched every one of them and i look forward to its completion.
Lol... yeah this machine was more like a truck load of worms, wasn't it!! Slowly but surely, we're getting them taken care of!! Thanks for the support! I truly appreciate it!
There is a switch you can buy that contacts both to 24 volts ( mine was a push button ) so both 12 volt batteries stay changed . Series to parallel and back. Or the other way I forgot ATM
@@olgriz485 EBay is one source.. I’d call J&N Electric. They are in Ohio and have been supplying parts, new and rebuilt units to the industry for decades. There are some knowledgeable guys there that can get him exactly what he needs.
@@sams991 Super that's exactly what information he needs. My piece of equipment was a 1955 International 1 ton 4x4 with a 6 volt system. The engine was extremely difficult to start in cold weather. My IH dealer stil carried almost everything I needed for those trucks. Mine had been damaged and i got one on the spot. 1977 was the time. I still own it. Conoco Wyoming in Cheyenne and I bought it from them for $200. 20 years later I rebuilt the straight six for $1000. I'm glad I did. Finding these old trucks is expensive and need a lot of work. I've the build list from the plant everything was original and had Conoco on the door.
Like you say your so far into restoring ole red and with the parts you have already removed your well on your way.......it would be Sod’s law the leaking will get worse further down the line. Removing the head having it skimmed and new gasket isn’t a massive undertaking and certainly is worth doing now,and man after me own heart as I like the way like me you research and give it ago and your doing a great job on this traxcavator...... really enjoying ole reds journey.
"I rebuilt 99% of this Cat engine, adding new and refurbished parts along the way. I cleaned it up and put it all back together. Now that I have it back together, I am going to take it all back apart and replace the head gasket."
Fantastic video....by all mean this is the time to do the head gasket to stop the leaks . Bettter do it now rather than dealing with it later ... Looking forward to see more of your nice thorough presentation.
That is correct but then you have to find a way to charge each 12V battery independently. If you were to load them as a 24V pack you would have balance issues.
@@mctronics7878 That's usually not a big problem with lead acid type batteries as long as they are about the same in (real) capacity, they tent to balance themselves quite well. I've run new and old, 75% charged and fully charged batteries together on many types of machines (tractors, loaders, dump trucks, excavators, boats and so on), and they seem to balance fine. Balancing cells is more a problem with li-ion and li-po cells. And when using many batteries in series, e.g. in higher voltage systems (36v, 48v, 60v ++). Just my 2 cents...
@@bgood2010 indeed it seems you're right, once fully loaded the excess of charging power will induce electrolysis of the water in the acid, which is not too concerning as long as the pack is kept from drying up by adding distilled water when needed.
@@mctronics7878 Yes, a very good point about using distilled water. I've seen too many dead batteries where people have topped them off with tap water... A friend of mine even topped off his with water from a stream a few years ago, and couldn't understand why his battery was dead the next morning... 😊
wow, you have really weakened that nose cone, the make replacements that will do the job right out of the box, Try calling J&N electric they can help and they are near you. its not a n expensive part and you do not want that nose to fail when you are out in the sticks.
My father started mechanised logging with a 955 TraxCavator with a crane custom mounted on the back. I have been really enjoying learning about how the machine functioned from your videos as that was well before my time.
Hi, still here watching Old Red getting bought back to life. You have put so much time and effort into her up to this point I would definitely do the head. You would have peace of mind in the end. Stay safe.🇦🇺👍
I would absolutely recommend doing the head gasket since you have it down to the state that it is in today! Doing great work and I enjoy the videos! Thanks
Do the head gasket for sure... No better time than the present... Can't wait for more on this series... And yes I would watch the work on the Tahoe... I think most of us gearheads and those aspiring to be one would lol
Do the work so you won’t worry about it later. If you don’t, you’ll be watching it leak every time you use it. And video the Tahoe work too
I hated watching it leak when I had it running before!
@@SalvageWorkshop So you have your answer....
Yup! Since you’re in it this far, might as well. Because you’ll doubt yourself later. And YES, I’d follow the Tahoe series!!!
agreed
Totally agree, it would be mad not to do it.
If your needing Tahoe to ride , then by all means fix it first , I used to run a 955 just like that when I was fifteen and sixteen , I would certainly like to see it fixed back right with it's bucket in the dirt and making some money ..... A little advice , when you start working it hard in a tight place , get ready to do some sweating , that's a lot of hot metal to be setting on top of .
You know you want to
Also Tahoe 👍
YAAAAS. I'm ashamed to admit I'm addicted to this series
Why are you ashamed? OWN IT!
Same here brother !!
Don't stop this service on OLD RED I LOVE IT!!!
Having been a diesel mechanic for 50 yrs before I retired, I would check the head bolts for correct tightness, if they are okay, I'm afraid the head will have to come off to cure the leaks.
Well done on the work though, I really enjoy seeing how you overcome problems. Keep the Vids coming. Regards Graham (UK)
Addictive series. Watched and learnt so much this month on the Old Red videos
For all the reasons you mentioned, yes, change the head gasket. You'll kick yourself later if you put it all together and then are forced to do.
Yeah.... I agree, begrudgingly, but I agree!
Yup, I second that emotion... because if you don't .... you will be emoting at yourself the whole time you're working on it .... AGAIN ...
Did you get a head gasket from Cat?
the only head gasket I advise putting gasket sealer on (Permatex Aviation 300 only)
get new water jacket ferrules and seals (goes between the head and block) ... copper ferrules CAN be reused so use caution when removing .... seals are updated to a new type o polymer which replace the leaky old styled rubberish seals. NOTE: after your first heat cool cycle on the new head gasket ... pop valve cover and re-toque the head bolts to final toque spec.
@@SalvageWorkshop Too bad you didn't tighten the head bolts to see if that would have solved the problem while it was running.
@@bobblack3870 just looking at this again, I think the old head gasket has already expired due to age and the materials available when it was originally made.
I am throwing my hat in on changing the head gasket. Like you said, it's a good time to do it.
Go for the head gasket on “Old Red” now! And, you’ll be able to adjust your rockers at the end.
I concur with the Head Gasket replacement
How about retorquing the head bolts first to see if it really needs to be tore down. theres been a lot of loose bolt on Old Red.
@Salvage Workshop, I have been binge watching this whole series over the last few days, love it. But no update since this Part 17, 9 months ago? Has there been something mentioned in another one of your series which I haven't seen yet? Would love more updates on this series. I was gutted to get to 17 thinking I have 9 more months of possible content to binge, and I have come to the end.
Looks like the end for old red, no series 18???
I wondered the same thing…
Scrap price is going thru the roof! Gotta fund other stuff!
I would like to know as well.
Yes you will feel better and sleep better knowing that you did everything you could to have a safe and useable machine.
For 12 volt just run a line from the positive of the first battery in series. It's only the second battery that gives you 24 volts. Many 24 volt machines have lots of 12 volt accessories. I do it all the time on heavy equipment and trucks.
Keep up the extremely interesting videos.
Was going to say the same thing.
@@robjustlooking8729 That 24V alternator/regulator is the whole key to the simple configuration. If he stays with the 12V charging system, then then the batteries will need to be in parallel for charging and series for starting - a much more complex switching problem.
@@MrEdwardhartmann switches are common to go between 12 and 24 volt, many ag tractors start on 24 but operate on 12v.
Yup we have a couple of dozers that are 24v start but all the cab controls and lights are 12v. In ours the 24v cable runs direct to the starter and that's it. Another line runs off the first batt with 12v and runs into the cab to power all the rest including the starters solenoid
Also then as mentioned they have 24v alternators as well
In the moment you asked abt the head gasket, it's not a question anymore: Make it. You will feel better and you sleep better.
And yes, lets look the Tahoe! Regards from Germany.
You answered it yourself. I always ask the question, "will it be any easier any other time than it is now?" Then comes, "well I might as well as". So there you go. I really like your decision to keep the pony in it as well as the new starter. Regards, Solomon
Go ahead with the restoration. You are doing things correctly. Do not stop! The old red deserves this affection.
Speaking from my own self anything you put out i will watch and enjoy go for the truck
Thank you for telling how the Pony Motor could be used to pre-heat the engine on a cold day to make starting easier. It goes to show how much though went into the design of this machine.
Your explanations as to what you are doing , and what will be done next are logical and methodical. I don't want to "blow smoke" at you, but yours is one of the best channels on TH-cam! Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much!
I have been following your Big Red project from the beginning don't want to miss a single video!🙂
Head gasket now. You don't want to button everything up and then go back and tear it apart to fix a leak you can access now. Love your videos...you do a great job explaining and educating as you go. The dogs are great too!!
All the work you,ve done on this machine, it would be criminal not to do the head gasket now. You know you won't regret it.
Stumbled upon your videos and binge watched all of “Old Red”. Love the old iron and your great attitude. Looking forward to working my way through the playlists.
i agree on the fact that you have "OLD RED" already apart, it seems like a no-brainer to do the head gasket now purely for longevity of the machine, i really enjoy watching the videos!
It’s worth doing now. You will always regret not doing in the future. Great videos, series and channel. Greeting from London UK
Well the comments r telling u yer get that head off and that sump u can look for nothing there is never a better time than now and I will watch u do that 4 wheel drive and now I will get on with my honda crv clutch in my back yard been at it since I was 17 still spanner ing now 70 enjoy it Google luck from uk
I'm not a mechanical expert or engine guy, but it seems that at every step along the journey of getting Ol' Red back up and running you've removed various parts and in *every* one of them you've found something that made you glad you did it. This beast is Korean War vintage, pushing 70 years old now and just based on that it's probably well worth it to take it apart, refurbish everything inside, and then slap it back together again. It'll be in great working order, but most importantly you'll *know* it's in great working order because you did the work on it! :)
That track drive sprocket that nearly took your leg off when it let gos is testament to this machine's hard life. Why would the cylinder head be any different? YKIMS. ;)
She's a bit tired.. she's pushing 70 you would need a new head gasket too..
Agreed; what you do now to refurbish that motor will ensure that it will run a good while after you quit working; lol.
A man I knew got one for $15500 non running; refurbished it and buil;t the area for houses (2) and a barn and outbuildings. Then sold the fine running old beast for $25000
Gotta say i really love this old red series.👍🏻
I did my trade in engine machining and assembly straight after school, for 12 years. Now I'm a plant operator here in Australia for 14 years, so these videos encompass everything i love. Keep up the great work. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
Yes to both, I enjoy learning new things, whether it's old tractors or newish trucks. Great channel, keep up the nice work.
"Switch is smoking, wires are getting hot...", smashes button 5 more times, "...probably not good for it!" LOLOL!
Do it. You’ll never regret it.
Quality work never costs, it ALWAYS pays....
Go ahead and make it right, you've come this far. Imagine if you don't do it and then you have take everything apart again.
I know exactly where you are coming from with organization. My kids laugh at me about my obsessive organization and labeling everything in bins. But I always find anything I have in a moment's notice. Or I can tell them right where to get at whatever they are looking for in my shop.
Exactly!!! It takes lots of time to be organized, but NO one laughs when they need something and you have it AND know RIGHT where it is!!
I wish I was more organized, Mrs claus reminds me every day of my disorganization. And the elves to as well.
ive lost a few finger nails putting heavy starter motors in when i was a young strong kid in the 70s so felt for you, please keep it up as i enjoy your videos very much.
After hard days work on my 1973 lincoln continental its nice to sit back watch you guys repair old stuff to !!!!!!
Hard not to keep it authentic. I get it though. This is going to be a working beast.
Definitely make a series on the Tahoe fixing. Concerning the head on the tractor motor, although there is an old saying that if it’s running don’t mess with it; on your case, meticulous as you are, I wouldn’t hesitate to say, DO IT. Greetings from Brazil.
I was always taught that when something has been opened up fix it. Saves time and usually money in the long run. Good videos and love to see old things brought back to life. These are the machines that built a lot of America and it's a shame to see them turned to junk and put out like old People
Decided to redo the traxcavator I inherited with my ranch thanks to your series!
Your dilemma reminds me of the old man who never goes to the Doctor because he might find out bad news ! cheers from Australia
Yes to all of the questions, especially the FIRE!
absolutely top video
no waffle
gets to the point
knows his stuff
interesting projects
no crappy music
so keep up your excellent work as I really enjoyed it
You nailed it! He isn't showing a bunch of tattoos, with colored hair using filthy profanity trying to develope a brand while all we want is wrenching. Cheers!
You won't know until you take the cover off while there's nothing in the way, at the end of the day it's a learning curve. All the best. Great job so far...
I've gotten sucked in on these videos. I'm up to 17 on old Red so heck yeah, make it brand new. I'd love to see you redo the Tahoe, too! I even subscribed! I am 73 and I'll never be doing anything like this but I'm loving you doing it! Thanks! I love dogs an kids so I'm with ya all the way!
Looks like old red won't be back
in my eyes you are a true genious you deserve 1000000000mil subscribers cheers from country GEORGIA🇬🇪🇬🇪🇬🇪🥃🥃🥃
This has been an amazing series, 100 percent invested in this series now 😂. If I where you, I would definitely go ahead and replace the head gasket. If it’s already leaking and it could only get worse. You already removed a lot crap that’s in the way. Yeah it’s a little more work, but could definitely save you a headache down the road. Get it done bud......
Greetings SW from North Wales UK. Great series!
I think the choice to put in the new starter.Was a good idea that way you have.A reliable way to start the machine.
The answer to all of your questions is Yes.
I love watching your videos and look forward to the new ones especially Old Red. Your dogs are a great bonus in the vids. I say do the head gasket but full disclosure, I say that because I want more videos of this project.
Yes, definitely put in a new head gasket. It’s logical. Pay me now or pay me later as the expression goes.
To srart it on 24 then run on12 volt you just need a series parallel switch availible at any truck shop
Yes do it now, with having so much off now is the time since it is already leaking. If you don't, the leak will get worse then it will be a bear to pull everything back off.
Just my 2 cents on the Tahoe, there are so many channels that work on the newer cars and trucks. I come here to see the more unusual. I mean really how many other channels are working on old forklifts and crawler loaders? Back in the day my dad operated a grader, not sure the brand, it was huge but only had 4 wheels not 6. It had 4 wheel steering and started with a pony motor. I always wondered how it worked, now thanks to you I know.
hmm. the head gasket is a tricky one. this is definitely the time to do it if you have the resources and time, but I think you have to prepare yourself to open a can of worms :P if you plan on using the machine I would definitely want a machine that didn't leak!
YUP! That's the dilemma!
@@SalvageWorkshop shia lebeouf has the perfect saying for this situation "just do it"
@@SkullCrusher757 Pretty sure that's Nike's tag line! lol, but ya I agree!
FOR SIMPLE 12V/24V: You can simply connect the 12V motor to one 12V battery and the 24V motor to two 12V batteries in series, no switch required. The only drawback is that if you ran both on a regular basis the battery supplying the 12V circuit and half of the 24V would drain much faster than the other battery. I don't think this would really be an issue if you are mostly using the 24V motor and the 12V only occasionally. If you were using the 12V regularly you could of course physically swap the batteries from time to time to balance their discharge rate, or even have a switch to alternate the 12V circuit between the two batteries. This might be overkill however. If you have the room, you could simply install 3 12V batteries, one supplying the 12V motor and the other two connected in series to the 24V motor. The advantage being that you have completely isolated circuits, but because all three batteries are the same type, you could physically swap them around if one were to fail giving you some redundancy.
exactly, just put the two batteries in serial (- of Battery one to + of Battery two) for the 12V circuit you just use the connectors of Battery one, for the 24V circuit you use + of Battery one and - of Battery two. I agree that it should be overkill to automatically alternate between the two batteries, but maybe create it in a way that you can easily change where the 12V-Circuit is connected.
This might be months later, but just get that old piece of equipment to charge at a 24 volt rate, and charge both batteries as if they were one 24 volt battery.
The problem is space, on a track loader especially. Just not much room to stick 3 batteries, or even two.
And you can’t simply switch the positive feed for 12 volts between batteries. You have to physically swap the ground as well or you’ll go from 12 volts to 24 when you move the positive cable. It would have been a lot simpler to use a 12 volt starter ☹️
I have never herd the 2 word's pony motor in my short life! Lol.
I'm glad you kept the pony motor.
I would do everything you can do to "Old Red" while he is disassembled. Dogs, other rebuild videos or home repair whatever you do we (subs who watch ALL your posts) will watch and some won't like it but the vast majority will support you.
Thank you my friend!
Never be any easier than it is right now.. Go for it.
No problem. You put 2 batteries in series to the starter 24v . The 12 v you just connect to one of the batteries. That way you have 2 system with 2 different voltage but connected together.
I was gonna say the same thing. I’ve done it like this before.
love the way you explained making the terminal tabs for the electronics, better to do the head gasket now then regret it latter.
Ol Red is Awesome thankful for your beautiful vlogs.
I would like to suggest finding another starter cone and removing less material and using larger corner radii. If the cone deflects the end bearing will wear quicker or may possibly bind. If the cone breaks things can go really bad. Additions and/or corrections to this post are welcome.
I found in my life, if you have to ask your self "should I?" then 95% of the time, yes you should, change the head gasket
When you're sailing and the wind is getting strong that the rule to know when to reef the mainsail: when you think about it, do it
The electric starter sounds like a good idea for starting a warmed up diesel. I suspect using the pony motor for cold starts would work best.
Called the starter supplier guy; he appreciated your listing him.
I repair various drum kits and I label spare parts like that. I also put a brief description in a XL spreadsheet so I can just check that before I have to spend money on spares. I love your dedication to solving each problem. Brilliant!
The consensus is to do the head gasket on “ol red”. As to the content do what you do we will watch. Been watching when you were doing just tool stuff and cleanup and fixing stuff around the shop and house. Was on the fence about the tractor, but now I get upset that it takes to long to see the next thing... 🤫😂👍👍
Perfect timing...Cheers from Turkey....
Old semi trucks had a series parallel switch that accommodated a 24 volt starter and a 12 lighting and accessories you might start there, they were phased out in the early 80s they charge both 12 batteries at the same time
That sounds PERFECT!! I'll look into it, thank you!!
Lot big trucks from the 80s had parallel switch so you can crank with 24 run everything else on 12 volts
@@SalvageWorkshop please check out my comment on Marine battery switches.
What you need to do is connect the two 12v batteries in series, then connect the negative of one battery to the chassis ground and ground of both starters. Then the positive of the second battery in series (24v) will go to the contactor of the giant Diesel starter. Then the midpoint of the two batteries (positive of the battery connected directly to chassis ground) will be your 12v point. The 12v from that will go directly to the contactor of the Pony motor starter. Then all you need to do is have a toggle switch that changes which starter contactor gets energized or have two different buttons to engage one of the two starters. You will probably need to use the 12v to engage the pony motor starter contactor and the 24v to engage the Diesel starter. So wire the two buttons or switches approprietly. Lastly you just need to have a 24v alternator to charge the batteries in series and the SLA chemistry will do all the balancing you may need by itself.
Another option is 24 to 12v voltage regulators common to electric golf carts. They are cheap. Hope this helps.
I always went by the old saying, if it isn’t broke , don’t fix it . I enjoy watching your videos.
The Florida pool pump motor repair guy approved ! that was good info ! SW
Its better to open the can to see if its full of worms than have them all escape at an inconvenient time after you've spent hours putting it all back together!
Thank goodness the pony moder isn’t going to be trashed otherwise I heard that 300 times for nothing
LOLOLOL
Do you not need the pony to warm the coolant? Sure the starter CAN start the diesel cold, but SHOULD it?
@@RSterkenburg I think this alone is a strong reason to keep the pony motor. Though you could fit a fuel fired block heater.
Just has a added note, regarding the starter when you tested it, I noticed you had the pos. battery feed on the end body stud. This should be a earth return (assuming it is neg return), the small wire from the solenoid to this stud allows the solenoid to work (neg return), that bracket you call a support bracket on the solenoid is actually the feed to the starter motor after the bendix has engaged. The pos wire from the battery should go to the other large solenoid stud. To operate the starter, a pos feed should go to the other small solenoid connector (not the wire that goes to the earth stud) Hope this helps
I was thinking the exact same thing.....Stud on the can is -/negative...main post on solenoid is main +/positive....inner post on the solenoid,is solenoid/bendex trigger and outer,small post on the solenoid is an option lead,that energizes when key is in start position,to either "throw" a 3 wire fuel shut off or to energize a murphy switch....UNLESS, its a reverse polarity setup,which I've seen in the past,but that's usually seen on an engine that uses a generator/starter combo ..I think he needs to confirm his wiring,before his hard work goes up in smoke
A lot of 24v systems are positive ground
Enjoy the work on the pony motor and starter. Sure do the head gasket . I’m a gear head and more than likely many of your viewers are too.
Yes and yes, Mr., I like to watch everything interesting as I consider myself a crazy mehanik.. =) Greetings from south Europe.
I think you answered your own question, this is one of the easiest times to do it, so you might as well do it.
WHEN YOU ARE WIRING THE NEW STARTER, I RECOMMEND PUTTING A KEYED INLINE “DEAD MAN” SWITCH. YOU WILL BE ABLE TO SAVE THE BATTERY FROM DRAINING IF ANY OPTION IS LEFT RUNNING, THERE IS A DEAD SHORT, AND PREVENT AN KIDS OR UN-NICE PERSON FROM USING THE POOR OLD LADY.
Your can of worms opened up the day you walked in that old barn.
With everything you've already done, it would be foolish to not replace the head gasket because if its already leaking, its not going to get better and your choices are to do it now or do it later.
I dont know why im so vested in this machine but ive watched every one of them and i look forward to its completion.
Lol... yeah this machine was more like a truck load of worms, wasn't it!! Slowly but surely, we're getting them taken care of!! Thanks for the support! I truly appreciate it!
a big yes to all your questions about making more vids. i love your stuff and am learning so much from them.
This starter is what I mentioned to you about several months ago. I'm glad you decided to go this route. I'm sure you won't regret doing this.
:-) Greetings from Slovakia.
"Never memorize something that you can look up." -Einstein
There it is!!
Good one I agree!
Also Eric O with SMA
i use this trick a lot in I.T.
There is a switch you can buy that contacts both to 24 volts ( mine was a push button ) so both 12 volt batteries stay changed . Series to parallel and back. Or the other way I forgot ATM
THAT is EXACTLY what I'm looking for! Thanks for letting me know about that! I'll look into it!
It’s actually called a series parallel switch. For systems that start on 24 and charge on 12.
@@sams991 I tried to send a link to an EBAY site to buy one. Ac Delco makes one
@@olgriz485 EBay is one source.. I’d call J&N Electric. They are in Ohio and have been supplying parts, new and rebuilt units to the industry for decades. There are some knowledgeable guys there that can get him exactly what he needs.
@@sams991 Super that's exactly what information he needs. My piece of equipment was a 1955 International 1 ton 4x4 with a 6 volt system. The engine was extremely difficult to start in cold weather. My IH dealer stil carried almost everything I needed for those trucks. Mine had been damaged and i got one on the spot. 1977 was the time. I still own it. Conoco Wyoming in Cheyenne and I bought it from them for $200. 20 years later I rebuilt the straight six for $1000. I'm glad I did. Finding these old trucks is expensive and need a lot of work. I've the build list from the plant everything was original and had Conoco on the door.
Like you say your so far into restoring ole red and with the parts you have already removed your well on your way.......it would be Sod’s law the leaking will get worse further down the line. Removing the head having it skimmed and new gasket isn’t a massive undertaking and certainly is worth doing now,and man after me own heart as I like the way like me you research and give it ago and your doing a great job on this traxcavator...... really enjoying ole reds journey.
Yes, perfect time to do it. Regardless of what you find inside, it’s easier at this point great job on the starter.
The real question to ask is how many more episodes until the opening is “so I pulled the main diesel out of old red”.
NEVER!!
@@SalvageWorkshop I hope you haven’t jinxed yourself , but I would still watch.
Never - That's only because you'll in frame it 😀😀
"Look at all that packing" - It definitely didn't come from Amazon...
More and more I find myself ordering from specialty websites over Amazon.
Let us be with you at the bonfire with some sweet tea and fireworks lol
Totally enjoy your channel. Old red deserves to be rebuilt to the best of your ability. Change the head gasket.
Yes too all :) and as for the size of the bonfire, yes. 4times the size, apple harvest party’s here in wv. Good ‘ol days! Love the content man.
"I rebuilt 99% of this Cat engine, adding new and refurbished parts along the way. I cleaned it up and put it all back together. Now that I have it back together, I am going to take it all back apart and replace the head gasket."
"Every time I learn something new, it pushes old stuff out of my brain" Homer Simpson.
That's why octopuses can only learn 8 things. When they are taught #9, they forget #1.
I'd watch the SUV repairs if you videotaped them.
I like watching how you think things through so even though I don't care about the Tahoe, I would probably watch just to see what you run into.
Fantastic video....by all mean this is the time to do the head gasket to stop the leaks . Bettter do it now rather than dealing with it later ...
Looking forward to see more of your nice thorough presentation.
Concerning the battery system:
When you have the two batteries in series, taking a tap from the bridge between them gives you 12 Volts.
Yep, you are then only connecting to one of the batteries.
That is correct but then you have to find a way to charge each 12V battery independently. If you were to load them as a 24V pack you would have balance issues.
@@mctronics7878 That's usually not a big problem with lead acid type batteries as long as they are about the same in (real) capacity, they tent to balance themselves quite well. I've run new and old, 75% charged and fully charged batteries together on many types of machines (tractors, loaders, dump trucks, excavators, boats and so on), and they seem to balance fine. Balancing cells is more a problem with li-ion and li-po cells. And when using many batteries in series, e.g. in higher voltage systems (36v, 48v, 60v ++). Just my 2 cents...
@@bgood2010 indeed it seems you're right, once fully loaded the excess of charging power will induce electrolysis of the water in the acid, which is not too concerning as long as the pack is kept from drying up by adding distilled water when needed.
@@mctronics7878 Yes, a very good point about using distilled water. I've seen too many dead batteries where people have topped them off with tap water... A friend of mine even topped off his with water from a stream a few years ago, and couldn't understand why his battery was dead the next morning... 😊
wow, you have really weakened that nose cone, the make replacements that will do the job right out of the box, Try calling J&N electric they can help and they are near you. its not a n expensive part and you do not want that nose to fail when you are out in the sticks.
Hi there, thanks for awesome videos on the restoration of OLD RED, please would love to see the next part 18 onwards. Thanks
My father started mechanised logging with a 955 TraxCavator with a crane custom mounted on the back.
I have been really enjoying learning about how the machine functioned from your videos as that was well before my time.
I’m with you with tests and memory. Only things I have done with hands on do I remember.👍👍👍
Love the battery terminal tip with the copper tubing. That will help me in my solar build. Thanks so much
Hi, still here watching Old Red getting bought back to life. You have put so much time and effort into her up to this point I would definitely do the head. You would have peace of mind in the end. Stay safe.🇦🇺👍
I would absolutely recommend doing the head gasket since you have it down to the state that it is in today! Doing great work and I enjoy the videos! Thanks
Do the head gasket for sure... No better time than the present... Can't wait for more on this series... And yes I would watch the work on the Tahoe... I think most of us gearheads and those aspiring to be one would lol
Thanks for posting and sharing. Great to hear that you will have a back up starter to stand in for the pony motor if necessary.