Outstanding presentation...Well done integrating the information and articulating your knowledge with a fine flow. Thank you! For those wanting to review the Amp Hour Formula, go to the 19:00 minute mark in the video.
Awesome video like always. Could you describe to me where under the nobo you put the shunt? I noticed the outside frame on the side and front of the rig aren't as thick as the center beams that run diagonally through the underbelly. So I was wondering where exactly you decided to mount yours. I also noticed other "shunt" looking things on the top near the front of the underbelly (terrible description). Did you think of putting it next to those?
Sure, glad to help. I like the idea of keeping it inside the frame where water is not likely to get. So I put mine inside frame right behind where I added my battery disconnect, right next to where the A frame portion connects to the rest of the frame (but on inside of underbelly). I just used two small nuts and bolts to secure it so that I wouldn't have a sheet metal screw poking out of the frame on the outside if that makes sense. I think you're right on the bus bars for the ground and neutral being just inside there as well...they look similar to shunt. So pretty much right next to those where you can find space. I think I also tie wrapped some of the spagetti mess that's in there at same time just to keep things from touching each other and such. Hope this helps!
So if anyone is interested, I posted pictures on the Victron community forum with the correct wiring and settings for my lead acid. I'm not sure if the settings are correct but you can see where I mounted mine and how I got it wired up. community.victronenergy.com/comments/91021/view.html
Thank you for the kind words! I think the closer the shunt is to the negative terminal on the battery, the more accurate the monitor is overall. Not sure how much more accurate, but that's the theory at least. But as long as no devices are between your shunt and the negative on battery terminal, then it should read fine. I believe that latter factor plays a greater role on the accuracy of the monitor. For example, if one places the shunt in a location after where maybe landing gear or a power jack is already located before on the negative terminal, then the accuracy of the meter goes down overall since it isn't able to monitor those devices. Let us know your results either way though! It's always helpful to hear about different unique setups and how they work. Thanks!
Thanks for the info. So I have the 712 I have the neg ( right side of the shunt) cable to chassis. And then a neg buss for all the grounds . This is okay right?
I think for accuracy you'll want the BMV-712 shunt connected directly to your battery's negative terminal. I'd imagine your negative bus bar probably as a negative lead to battery or from chassis so it'll probably work the way you described, but maybe not as accurate. Here's a wiring diagram for clarity: community.victronenergy.com/storage/attachments/1491-screenshot-2019-02-28-09-55-06-1.png I believe keeping that shunt as close to your battery as possible will help the accuracy of readings. So in summary it may work with an alternate wiring, but may not yield as accurate perhaps? Hope this helps!
I would not buy this again. It's a very expensive voltage meter just by itself. Just remember this device only "Monitors" when the app is open and in use. That "Live" data he's talking about goes bye-bye as soon as your app loses focus. Makes this $300 device less useful then my older $50 device with "full time" battery monitoring (trending data) Need to bye another $500 device if you want full time monitoring. They don't tell you that until AFTER you buy it, and you figure that out on your own and go WTH?!?!
For those interested in buying the Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor with Bluetooth
amzn.to/36GmxKC
Bezel is needed if you can’t get to the back of the gauge or the wall is too thick to use the gauge nut.
Great tip!
Outstanding presentation...Well done integrating the information and articulating your knowledge with a fine flow. Thank you! For those wanting to review the Amp Hour Formula, go to the 19:00 minute mark in the video.
Thank you, kindly! :)
Great video. also thanks for the Battery amp calculation of a battery
Thank you for the kind words! Glad it was helpful :)
Awesome video like always. Could you describe to me where under the nobo you put the shunt? I noticed the outside frame on the side and front of the rig aren't as thick as the center beams that run diagonally through the underbelly. So I was wondering where exactly you decided to mount yours.
I also noticed other "shunt" looking things on the top near the front of the underbelly (terrible description). Did you think of putting it next to those?
Sure, glad to help. I like the idea of keeping it inside the frame where water is not likely to get. So I put mine inside frame right behind where I added my battery disconnect, right next to where the A frame portion connects to the rest of the frame (but on inside of underbelly). I just used two small nuts and bolts to secure it so that I wouldn't have a sheet metal screw poking out of the frame on the outside if that makes sense. I think you're right on the bus bars for the ground and neutral being just inside there as well...they look similar to shunt. So pretty much right next to those where you can find space. I think I also tie wrapped some of the spagetti mess that's in there at same time just to keep things from touching each other and such. Hope this helps!
@@AdventureRocks yes that helps a lot!! Thank you!
So if anyone is interested, I posted pictures on the Victron community forum with the correct wiring and settings for my lead acid. I'm not sure if the settings are correct but you can see where I mounted mine and how I got it wired up.
community.victronenergy.com/comments/91021/view.html
@@chandlerh Nice, thank you!
Great video, you communicate very well. What if you put the shunt on a panel (in my case) should I still have a good ground for the battery? TIA
Thank you for the kind words! I think the closer the shunt is to the negative terminal on the battery, the more accurate the monitor is overall. Not sure how much more accurate, but that's the theory at least. But as long as no devices are between your shunt and the negative on battery terminal, then it should read fine. I believe that latter factor plays a greater role on the accuracy of the monitor. For example, if one places the shunt in a location after where maybe landing gear or a power jack is already located before on the negative terminal, then the accuracy of the meter goes down overall since it isn't able to monitor those devices. Let us know your results either way though! It's always helpful to hear about different unique setups and how they work. Thanks!
Really helpful 👍😀
Glad to help!
Hvad er den maksimale spænding og den højeste spænding, som stykket kan modstå?
www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-BMV-712-Smart-EN.pdf
6.5 - 70 VDC
Thanks for the info. So I have the 712 I have the neg ( right side of the shunt) cable to chassis. And then a neg buss for all the grounds . This is okay right?
I think for accuracy you'll want the BMV-712 shunt connected directly to your battery's negative terminal. I'd imagine your negative bus bar probably as a negative lead to battery or from chassis so it'll probably work the way you described, but maybe not as accurate. Here's a wiring diagram for clarity:
community.victronenergy.com/storage/attachments/1491-screenshot-2019-02-28-09-55-06-1.png
I believe keeping that shunt as close to your battery as possible will help the accuracy of readings. So in summary it may work with an alternate wiring, but may not yield as accurate perhaps? Hope this helps!
@@AdventureRocks thanks for your reply.
I would not buy this again. It's a very expensive voltage meter just by itself. Just remember this device only "Monitors" when the app is open and in use. That "Live" data he's talking about goes bye-bye as soon as your app loses focus. Makes this $300 device less useful then my older $50 device with "full time" battery monitoring (trending data) Need to bye another $500 device if you want full time monitoring. They don't tell you that until AFTER you buy it, and you figure that out on your own and go WTH?!?!