Enjoyed the detail of these four videos and it's really helpful to see you working through the problems. I think it must be a golden rule in manual writing to miss out at least one critical step! Very interested to see the hydronic heating system come to life...
Thank you, we thought if we are having some problems then others must be too. Must be there is always something missing from a manual 🤣 We're very much looking forward to the heating too, should be fun 😁
Nice video - thank you. Just a quick thought, like everyone that has ever wired something, we often don’t have the “correct” color wire, tubing or whatever, but it’s imperative to take precautions to remind yourself in the future or those that come after you that the red wire is actually a negative wire. I might suggest covering those red shrink tubing with black tape.
Thanks ☺️ In the event that we do sell the van then of course we'll relabel and recolour as necessary. As it stands today, no one but us is touching the systems in the van. I would love to make it look neater though, so when we upgrade we may recolour anyway.
great stuff. i bet you are glad you have finished off that part of electrics. Hopefully the hydronic sub floor heating and solar array connections will be straightforward. Looking forward to you new uploads. Best wishes.
dont forget you can change the name of the device as well in the settings , ours is called EVA after the van , lol i know silly but hey better than being called bnjsbfu79374 fi3f 3793743g4r2vf , great vid guys
We've found the name change option, it was quite exciting. We've named it after our van too 😂 Don't you think that bnjsbfu79374 fi3f 3793743g4r2vf has a nice ring to it though?
Hi guys, im right behind you on the same build, i think im catching you up ! :) just wondering what refrigerator your planning to use? I notice you have 200ah of lithium batteries. Im working my electrics out and it seems i need 364ah (!) to run a 46w thermoelectric cooler box for 48hrs. ( agm batts so only 50%discharge and this isnt evenincluding lights or anything) does this sound right to you guys or have gone wrong here?! Seems loads just for a simple coolerbox. 46w÷12=3.8a 3.8a x 48 = 182ah 182 ah x 2 = 364ah (50%discharge) Thanks for your help !
Hi bob, 12V fridges are quite a thorn in our backside since they are expensive. At the moment, we're planning on getting something like this: www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/fridges/small-fridges/small-fridge-fm061 As for the maths, you are correct and that seems pretty high, however, fridges aren't always running 24/7. They turn on and off, so won't always be running on full power. For example, the fridge we're looking at is 40W (3.33A) but its average consumption is around 0.87Ah (per hour) since the fridge isn't on all the time. Try and find the average Ah consumption for your fridge and you can use that for the maths. So 0.87Ah * 48h = 41.76Ah to run the fridge for 48 hours (for our fridge). Not as bad. 😂👍
@@FreedomStrider thanks for the advice i really appreciate it. Ive had trouble finding the average running amps on most of the cheaper ones, im wondering whether to hazard a guess at 1/4 of the rated current. They are so expensive! Cheapest ive seen on ebay is 250. Not the best but im sure theyd work. Next step down is a thermo electric cooler. (Fans and peltier) although im not sure on the cooling of these for meats etc as ive never used one
No, we only used the shunt from the BMV, though I imagine getting multiple shunts means you can just see how many amps are being used by a specific device at one time. Not heard of a smart shunt for an alternator before?
@@FreedomStrider I think there is a difference between charged voltage and charge voltage, According to victron manual the charged voltage parameter should be 0.2 or 0.3 below the float voltage. see also page 24 of www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/SmartShunt/Manual_BMV_and_SmartShunt-en.pdf
@@markfodor1515 Noticed a lot of people confusing the two. Charged voltage would be closer to around 13.2-13.4 V, depending on your float voltage. Different again for solar, which would 0.3 below the absorption voltage (14.1-13.8). Oh dang, now i'm confused.
Enjoyed the detail of these four videos and it's really helpful to see you working through the problems. I think it must be a golden rule in manual writing to miss out at least one critical step! Very interested to see the hydronic heating system come to life...
Thank you, we thought if we are having some problems then others must be too. Must be there is always something missing from a manual 🤣 We're very much looking forward to the heating too, should be fun 😁
Nice video - thank you. Just a quick thought, like everyone that has ever wired something, we often don’t have the “correct” color wire, tubing or whatever, but it’s imperative to take precautions to remind yourself in the future or those that come after you that the red wire is actually a negative wire. I might suggest covering those red shrink tubing with black tape.
Thanks ☺️
In the event that we do sell the van then of course we'll relabel and recolour as necessary. As it stands today, no one but us is touching the systems in the van. I would love to make it look neater though, so when we upgrade we may recolour anyway.
great stuff. i bet you are glad you have finished off that part of electrics. Hopefully the hydronic sub floor heating and solar array connections will be straightforward. Looking forward to you new uploads. Best wishes.
I hope so too, but I'm not going to hold my breath for an easy ride, but we'll get there 👍🙂
dont forget you can change the name of the device as well in the settings , ours is called EVA after the van , lol i know silly but hey better than being called bnjsbfu79374 fi3f 3793743g4r2vf , great vid guys
We've found the name change option, it was quite exciting. We've named it after our van too 😂
Don't you think that bnjsbfu79374 fi3f 3793743g4r2vf has a nice ring to it though?
Well done guys, we really liked this video especially the beginning with the disclaimer. Can’t wait for the heating video :-).
Thanks so much! 😊 Can't wait to have warm toes either!
Making progress at last 👍👍👍
We're getting there ☺️
Hi guys, im right behind you on the same build, i think im catching you up ! :) just wondering what refrigerator your planning to use? I notice you have 200ah of lithium batteries. Im working my electrics out and it seems i need 364ah (!) to run a 46w thermoelectric cooler box for 48hrs. ( agm batts so only 50%discharge and this isnt evenincluding lights or anything) does this sound right to you guys or have gone wrong here?! Seems loads just for a simple coolerbox.
46w÷12=3.8a
3.8a x 48 = 182ah
182 ah x 2 = 364ah (50%discharge)
Thanks for your help !
Hi bob, 12V fridges are quite a thorn in our backside since they are expensive. At the moment, we're planning on getting something like this: www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/fridges/small-fridges/small-fridge-fm061
As for the maths, you are correct and that seems pretty high, however, fridges aren't always running 24/7. They turn on and off, so won't always be running on full power. For example, the fridge we're looking at is 40W (3.33A) but its average consumption is around 0.87Ah (per hour) since the fridge isn't on all the time. Try and find the average Ah consumption for your fridge and you can use that for the maths.
So 0.87Ah * 48h = 41.76Ah to run the fridge for 48 hours (for our fridge). Not as bad. 😂👍
@@FreedomStrider thanks for the advice i really appreciate it. Ive had trouble finding the average running amps on most of the cheaper ones, im wondering whether to hazard a guess at 1/4 of the rated current.
They are so expensive! Cheapest ive seen on ebay is 250. Not the best but im sure theyd work. Next step down is a thermo electric cooler. (Fans and peltier) although im not sure on the cooling of these for meats etc as ive never used one
nice one you two looking good
Thank you 😁
Good vid, see you soon for the hydronic one:)
We're working on it 👍☺️
Did you guys ever get the smart shunt to run like a Dc metre for the alternator
No, we only used the shunt from the BMV, though I imagine getting multiple shunts means you can just see how many amps are being used by a specific device at one time. Not heard of a smart shunt for an alternator before?
@@FreedomStrider yes you can turn the shunt into a Dc metre for the alternator to a cerbo gx
i think your charged voltage is wrong, should be 13.9 i belive for lithium
Each brand of Lithium batteries recommend a different charged voltage, we used the spec sheet of our Relion batteries but yours might be different 👍
@@FreedomStrider I think there is a difference between charged voltage and charge voltage, According to victron manual the charged voltage parameter should be 0.2 or 0.3 below the float voltage. see also page 24 of www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/SmartShunt/Manual_BMV_and_SmartShunt-en.pdf
@@markfodor1515 Noticed a lot of people confusing the two. Charged voltage would be closer to around 13.2-13.4 V, depending on your float voltage. Different again for solar, which would 0.3 below the absorption voltage (14.1-13.8). Oh dang, now i'm confused.