Busy Busy Shop // Paul Brodie's Shop
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2021
- Tiger cub update and some bicycle frame painting. Once the stuck seat post gets removed.🤓🏁
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#triumph #bicycle #paint #fussyframebuilder
Stance being the difference between the dog watching me and the dog watching the cat.
Yes!
Mitch, the international man of mystery!
Hi paul we are waiting for you . And your great garage
Cool frame Mitch.
Love your stuff. I'm a biker of over 60 years. Did it all - road racing, dirt, enduros, hare scrambles. Some road racing in Canada - Mosport! Still have a dozen or so bikes, some kind of vintage today like me. Have a shop, though not as well equipped as yours, but I can do most everything. I'm also a lifetime car guy, that's where 'stance' that you mentioned comes in. All important is 'stance' in cars. Gotta look right, sit right. Low in front but not too much, a little high in the rear, big tires - but again not too much. In motorcycles, to me, the best stance ever was the Yamaha DT1. Remember it? Dunlop Universals like your Cub. High in the rear, looked like a cat ready to pounce. This was before dirt bikes were jacked up. Got an old Harley Davidson ERS in my shop covered up for years. Made by Aermacchi, a short track race bike, 350 sand cast motor. Gotta uncover it and do something with it. You are inspiring. Thank you for these videos.
Thank you Bill. Of course I remember the DT1. I still have an article I printed out several years on what a success it was. Yamaha sold over 50,000 in one year. That doesn't happen anymore. I wanted the 175cc CT1 so bad, but I didn't have $666. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank you for sharing. Watched and enjoyed.
Am I the only one to notice Vancouver's own Steve Crevier gracing the booth wall?
Nice looking frame Mitch!
Thanks Peter!
Stuck seatposts are the devil. Steel and aluminium don't mix, but on older bikes we moved our seatposts all the time riding trails, now we have these dropper posts fitted and they almost never get moved. I try to make a habit of checking a seatpost will move during each service, and/or giving it a lick of grease.
If the frame is worth more than the seatpost, I have heard you can dissolve it out using ammonia something, but my old boss, and aircraft engineer, used to hammer them out with a 9X rivet gun. The small and frequent hits vibrated them out every time.
Caustic soda will dissolve aluminum, but it is nasty stuff.
16:12 I did not see the seagull 😁 always a pleasure to watch your videos ! 💪💪💪
I would like to buy you coffees in person and talk bicycles and machining - I worked for raceface running their carbon crank dept, now have a small machine shop in delta.
That could happen after I finish painting. A little too busy right now. You would have to be vaccinated.
@@paulbrodie sure! I've been vacced.
@@paulbrodie Why?? Vaccines protect the person vaccinated so if you are vaxed that´s all that matters, to you...
@@Farlig69 Not quite right. You're either part of the solution, or you're part of the problem.
@@paulbrodie Not quite right, you're either gaslighted and a well boiled frog or well researched...
I wouldn't alter the side stand until you have the bike assembled and sag for the shocks set. The forks / shocks should sag a little with the motor in it.
That is a good idea, but I sat on the bike and the rear shocks don't really go down at all. I think I will make my best guess and then get the stand into the paint booth.
My old favorite bike had a stuck seatpost.. - alu seatpost, iron tube, they were completely fused... i could not move it, I had to cut the seatpost in half, and saw slits in it from the inside with a hacksaw.. what an absolute nightmare! - But it did work out in the end and I got my new adjustable angle seat post in (many many hours later) I had no access to heat, so that was it.
Glad you figured it out.
I think another reason for the block of wood under the foot of the side stand is so the photographer can get a direct side shot of the motorcycle. Great video as always guys thanks for sharing your time!
If the photographer is so good why don't they just Photoshop out the 2X4 and extend the stand?
I'd give the tiger cub two stands... center, and side. 😁
I just found the centre stand today in a parts box. I'm going for a "clean" look so I will probably leave it off.
Stuck dropper post? One of the many reasons I’m glad I don’t work at a shop anymore ;)
It's just one of those jobs that has to be done, and it turned into content so that was good.
Nice work thanks for sharing.
Hi Paul, nice Video again!
Filling Coke into the seattube and letting it sit bottom bracket up for a night was our old bikeshop trick...
Waiting for the color paint vid. Greets Tim
Next time, the stuck seatpost specialist on TH-cam is RJ The Bike Guy. =)
I have seen RJ the Bike Guy.
15:34 - dat smile! When you had to deal with stuck seat posts in the past … you‘ll understand.
Thanks for another video from your shop.
I‘m so sad we don’t have a framebuilder in my area, that holds building courses.
Thank you Christian. When I taught Framebuilding 101 students came from all over the world :)
Thanks. The explanation about the masking / hand-holds, and also the pivoting hook (shown in a previous video) really complete the picture when you paint the frame. We learn something every week!
Thanks for watching.
As far as Bike Exif is concerned most of those bikes are cafe style. A lot of them are form over function. Yes, a bike lowered in the front does look “cool” and faster when just parked. Mostly just good for short trips.
If you follow those design principles the forks should be lowered until the tank is parallel with the ground. The top of the tank should be the highest object of the bike. Also, no body part should extend past the rear axle, and nothing past the front axle.
Yes, if you explain it that way, it does make some sense!
Basically stance is the way something stands. The term applies to everything from people and animals through to inanimate objects like bikes and cars.
Looked to me like the seat post might have reached the curve in the frame. Good job, content and videos.
The seat post did not go down as far as the curve in the tube, Why, that would have been poor design!
By adding length to the front forks or the rear shocks of a motorcycle you change the steering head angle from vertical that effects the rake and trail geometry. By doing so you can really mess up the handling of the motorcycle.
Yes, it is true. Every time you change one thing it affects several other things. It's all a compromise really. You can't have the strongest and the lightest bike, for example..
Hey Paula love the channel! FYI The 2x4 under the kickstand is not always to compensate for a change in the height. A lot of the time it is to get the bike as vertical as possible during the photography session.
Yes, I have been told that. But, if the bike is almost vertical with the 2X4, then I am sure it leans too far without the prop.
Could also be a spreader plate, to stop the small foot sinking into soft soil and then the bike falls over ?
Try acf 50 oil / It’s a preservation all but also frees up metal lovely Michael
Is acf something like atf? That's what we have in Canada..
I like your smile @15.30 Paul ,as maybe we had the same feeling at that moment. Cheers.
Thank you Impian.
Stance! Cool topic. Motocross bikes in 1973 all had similar frame geometry. In 1974 most racers and manufactures were experimenting with long travel rear suspension. This changed the “stance” but more importantly it changed the rake and trail and ultimately the cornering and straight line stability over rough terrain. Interesting times, lots of testing and cutting and welding. Skills I get to use to this day.
Thanks for sharing your project and bringing back good memories!
Thanks Ron. Yes, back in the 70's I was reading every motorcycle magazine I could get my hands on and it was fascinating to watch the development of long travel motocross bikes.
Great stuff as usual. The seat post dilema was quite interesting. I am restoring a Torker BMX bicycle from 1981. Chromoly frame, aluminum seatpost that hasnt been moved in 40 years. Two dissimilar metals plus no antiseize equals beyond stuck! I tried every single thing you did to no avail. Ultimately had to cut off the seatpost flush, and use drill bits. It took quite awhile, but I got there without damaging the frame. The paint info is excellent, Im absolutely a newbie in that world.
If gentle heat and brute force failed we would melt the seatpost out of the frame - three people with a torch each soon had a puddle of aluminium on the floor. 😃
I'd be putting a few sandbags in the frame to mimic the weight of the engine, before deciding on a side stand length.
You're not the first... It's only a little 200cc motor. Really, how much can it weigh?
I love you. Specialy when you work on Mountain Bikes.
I think I can feel the love!
Stance has (to me) always been how someone _or something_ carries themselves.
By dropping the fork tubes in the triple trees or adding longer shocks, racers make the steering head angle steeper without changing the frame.
Put some antiseize on the seat post next time! Haha 😜
Or grease!
Ooh, *Imron.*
That stuff is *NASTY.*
I paint very little. I would not want to be doing it 40 hours / week.
@@paulbrodie mostly I was doing prep work, though I did some actual painting now and then. The fumes were legion, then: prep-sol, lacquer thinner, now and then M.E.K….
Like in the Sunkist Growers’ paint booth, 1986-7.
I couldn’t lie about the amounts painted, so I got moved to the machining area. Proved to be a *much* better machinist, compared to being a *mediocre*
painter.
Lovely zinc chromate. I recognize *that* stuff. Learned about Binks and DeVilbis spray guns in the paint booth. Bought a DeVilbis later.
Regarding the stuck seatpost, I figured I'd share something I noticed recently after a few decades of cycling (proof you never stop learning).
I was struggling with a seatpost the was slipping, even with the seatpost quick release as tight as I could get it (like having the smack the lever hard multiple times to get it closed). Wiping all the grease off the post didn't help either.
What fixed it was greasing all the sliding surfaces in the seatpost QR and the interface between the QR collar and the frame. Now a liberally greased seatpost doesn't slip at all with the seatpost collar quick-release adjusted normally.
Carbon paste also helps.
Great video as always Paul. Informative and entertaining. Laughed so hard at the seat post squeaking its way out of the frame. No idea why. Very satisfying.
My buddy's Mercian's seat post was stuck. He wrecked the tube trying to get it out then gave me the frame. Mercian in Derby replaced the tube and refinished the frame in a delicious two-tone green design. Many £££ later I have my dream bike. No regrets. I'm looking at it right now. Don't suppose you see too many Mercians over there.
No, I cannot recall the last time I saw a Mercian. You were lucky to find a framebuilder who would replace a seat tube. I think most frame builders would not want that job.
More thoughts lol! Prior to 1974 I suppose most motocross and street motorcycles were built and sold based on “stance” or how they looked to us. I don’t recall anyone at the motocross tracks discussing geometry. Mostly it was “I can’t ride this thing” !
You should have put a "smiley face" over Mitch's face in that picture.
Mitch is the editor. We have assumed our roles, and I do not have that power.
Hello Mitch. I like that blue colour on your bike. Fifty odd years ago back in Bristol UK I had a 72 parallel track
frame built by Freddie Grubb (sp) and if memory serves me right that was it’s colour. It was a great colour and made up into
a great bike. Paul, I enjoy the channel. Keep up the good work. From a fellow Vancouverite.
It's always enjoyable to watch and listen to the Paul and Mitch products.
Stance. Yes, it's an interesting characteristic which I've always considered to be "form" which should be driven by "function".
A look, if you will, which far too many prioritise over how the bike actually rides.
Your gesture(s) @ 04:40 to 04:45 were perfectly brief in explaining it.
Thanks Mac Cat. I think you are correct that often the "look" over-rides the "function". I cannot operate that way.
That's a nice looking frame Mitch built, so how about some details on the geo and tubing he used? Funny thing, I think I know the guy you're talking about with the stuck seatpost that the builder reemed the post out and the whole debacle, he was not a happy camper at all.
The one and biggest thing I take away from all your videos is, always thing about how you're going to be able to hold the part you're working on, whether it be doing machine work or painting, have to be able to hold it properly.
Yes, for so many things it is all about being able to hold it properly!
@@paulbrodie A fab shop in Seattle successfully machined out a stuck seatpost for me years ago, an aluminum post in a 1993 Bridgestone MB-2. (I had previously tried lots of things). They built a 27.2 boring bar and some blocks to hold the frame in alignment in the lathe. Later on they got another post out by securing the BB shell to a steel post/plate anchored in the concrete, and using a forklift to pull the post straight up and out.
@@jimmmaaayyy5163 Well, that machine shop certainly likes to take on a challenge!
stance
1. the way in which someone stands, especially when deliberately adopted (as in baseball, golf, and other sports); a person's posture.
Easily adapted from someone to something.
_Brodozers typically have their tires outside the fenders for an ultra douchey stance._
ML, thanks for your comments.
As always, thank you for another interesting video.
You've briefly touched on one of the most poorly understood subjects regarding motorcycle handling - the relationship between the sprocket, chain, and swingarm pivot. It's what controls squat under power in the rear suspension. It's possible to model it mathematically, but it's a nightmare, as it's constantly changing with throttle application and suspension position. I am, at best, aware that it's "a thing" but I'm barely conversant in it. It is most important on bikes with big power. The most famous example of getting this wrong is the Britten -- it famously would wheelie on the banking at Daytona. Yes, it was powerful, but it wasn't exclusively the power - it was the squat geometry at the SA pivot that promoted the wheelies.
Stance is posture of standing..eg boxers stance.
In this case the raised stance caused by longer stronger forks..will change handling from standard. Increases rake..attack angle of front wheel when turning. ( castor) .. stress on neck ..also increase pendulum effect when changing lines. Better view in traffic also higher bike more visible. The most pronunced handling effect maybe harder less forgiving fork suspension which coupled with decreased castor may be a negative on wet roads. Would consul an Avon ribbed tyre on font..tyre pressure crucial..and every non delay feedback you can tweak into front brake. Grease cams cable and lever. I have the scars to proove I know what Im talking about..lol
Well, I am using a stock Tiger Cub fork, it's just the longer of the 2 stock forks... Also, not planning to ride in the rain. Thanks for commenting.
I did this once then I put all the stuff back in the frame and it was to tall . Had to rework it .
I always enjoy your videos being a motorcycle builder myself (mostly Harleys) you won't be able to check the "stance" out without the engine. It's probably not going to be as substantial on you Tiger Cub as it is on a Harley because of the weight of the engine but the engine weight will lower the front of the frame down. I would also be afraid of lengthening the kick stand with out the weight of the engine in it might make it to long. As long as magazines have been doing motorcycle photography they have had to put blocks under the kickstand to make the bikes sit more upright. Although you need a little lean on the bike on the side stand to make it work properly it doesn't make a very good photo. Just saying. Keep up the good work.
Yes, the 2X4 is for the photographer. Who should learn how to Photoshop the 2X4 and extend the stand. Thanks for watching and commenting.
In the car scene stance is how a car sits. Are the wheels tucked, flush or poking out from fenders. Fendergaps, ride hight ect all plays in to a cars stance. So what is good stance? What ever is believed to be fashionable at the time and what suits the purpose of the vehicle
Thanks for your comment.
Hey Mr. Paul, have you pulled those forks apart and measured the travel against your original forks? If the travel is 40mm longer as well as the overall length, its easy enough on conventional forks to put a 40mm delrin spacer under the damping rods to lower the forks by limiting the amount they can rebound. Granted, this will increase the preload on the spring but its also easy to cut fork springs with an Oxygen-Acetylene torch and then heat a little piece at the top and roll down against the next coil to grind it down flat like the originals. Hope that makes sense and maybe helps you. Adding 40mm to the length of the front fork to a 59" wheelbase bike (got the wheelbase from the tiger cub bible) would increase the steering head angle by 4 degrees and the wheelbase by 3.5 inches making it turn really sluggish in comparison to the original setup which may not be great for trials. Take care
-Spencer
also, I'm an awful painter so this video was helpful. I hope you do some more painting tips in future videos with the tiger cub. I have a 1970 Honda Minitrail 50 that I'm building and would love to paint it myself. I guess I should just give it a whirl and see how it goes. Worst that happens is I sand blast it off again haha
Yes, adding 40mm will change the geometry, but 4 degrees and 3.5" sounds like way too much. I do know how to limit travel, and I will consider that, but I think I have to ride the bike first. It's not a trials bike, it's just a road bike so I can terrorize my neighbourhood.
I understand that vintage racers will swap the front wheel from 19 inch to 18 and increase the length of the rear shocks to change the STANCE and put more weight on the front wheel for better cornering. Bikes like the Kawasaki H1 tend to wheely very easily because they are front end light!
One of the main reasons for going to 18" front on a Vintage race bike is because race rubber is basically only available in 18" size. And a lower stance on the front.
I knew a guy with a hardtail Ironhead Sportster who could only park in a particular parking spot at a bike night location we used to go to. Otherwise, his bike sat too vertical and was at risk of tipping over. Actually, what you decided on would be risky in Oklahoma winds.
Yes, I have heard of bikes that have been blown over in a strong wind. Never happened to me. Once I walked away from my bike and got maybe 8-10 steps before it fell over. Since then, I always put the sidestand down.
@@paulbrodie I had friend park his Guzzi Lemans next to my Buell M2 and as we walked away maybe 5-6 steps, his bike fell to the right knocking my Buell over too. I was not happy about it. He wasn't a newbie either and it wasn't very windy. Best guess was that he must have had one or both of his wheels in a low spot and it was standing too near vertical as a result. Not a pristine flat parking lot.
@@lunkydog Obviously, parking a motorcycle takes some forethought and a certain amount of skill. There's probably a TH-cam video out there showing the correct technique for different parking situations...
Great stuff, as usual! I've always interpreted stance as being the visual look of a car or motorcycle (or even a person) as seen from the side. On a car it can be the overall rake of the body, the gap between the tires and fenders, wheel size, etc. A good stance should elicit a feeling in the viewer, such as aggressiveness or stateliness. A bad stance could be considered riding too high, looking unbalanced or giving off a feeling of "just not right". I really feel like it is a purely aesthetic consideration, and has absolutely no performance correlation. If it looks cool to you, it has a good stance.
Exactly my understanding of stance as well.
But stance can change trail and therefore handling as well.
Cliff sounds right to me , Always considered it a visual term.As for handling that would come under rideability.
@@836dmar Not always a bad thing. When people say that, to me, it seems like they assume the geometry is spot on to begin with. It all depends on what the bike is for.
@@Maax1200 Agreed. I have changed geometry as well. One road bike is quite a bit twitcher now than factory and 12K mi later I still love it. I mention it as it appears many makers(certainly not Paul) put aesthetics first apparently without consideration of other changes - at least it isn’t often mentioned. I see they are separate aspects but I just can’t consider one without the other. Just me I guess.
Hi Paul. The stance is the relationship between the front and the rear of the bike as you have ascertained. Putting the longer forks in will increase the head angle (the angle of the forks away from vertical). With a trials bike you need you generally have a shorter head angle than you do on a road bike or a racing bike, as the ability to move the bike around obstacles at a slow speed is most important (as you know). You will find that the head angle on the TRS is a lot less (more vertical) than the Cub at the moment. Dropping the forks through the triple T's is one way to change this angle, and it's a lot less expensive/difficult than trying to modify the frame! I have only just found your channel, but I think it's excellent! Rob
Rob, I'm not building the Cub to be a trials bike. Just a road bike. I do know about head tube angles. I cannot just lower the forks through the triple trees because the fork tube has a taper that fits into the upper triple tree. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Stance is probably lifted from the car community, where people like to lower their cars significantly, camber the wheels, and stretch tyres onto wider rims. The "stance" is the way the vehicle sits, just like a person's stance when they stand or sit or walk etc.
Nice work Mr. Brodie!! I always enjoy every episode!! What's the specific name of the green primer? Thanks!
The “green” metal primer *I* recall, from many years ago, was *zinc chromate.*
It’s a lot harder to find, now, unless you do aircraft work. Not sure if DuPont still makes it.
I think our primer used at Sunkist in the late eighties was a DuPont product.
Thank you Jesus. The problem asking me about paint and primers is that when I go to buy more, the paint store usually says: "Oh, that primer was discontinued over 2 years ago!" That's how little paint I actually buy. I think you're talking about the Zinc chromate primer, also known as an etching primer. It goes on the bare metal. Get a good, quality brand. Never go for the cheapest.
I probably should do all that to my bike but I haven't shrunk enough yet to really need to move sea-tpost plus it still has original paint and stickers from 30+ years ago (Muddy Fox 'Trailblazer' ,Tange tubes Suntour crank and cassette).
I did fit new forks and front wheel about 25 years ago, that was also last time seat post was moved, good quality grease hasn't helped. (Silkolene 'Pro, used it on race motorcycles)
I contacted Muddy Fox few years ago hoping to find transfer kit but the original company was sold and new bikes are made in China
New owners know nothing about originals.
There's a good chance your seat post is REALLY stuck. A quarter of a Century! Thanks for the story.
@@paulbrodie Yes, it was stuck about 5 years ago when I tried to adjust height. It won't have gotten any better even though I did soak everything in release oil. I'm pretty sure I'll have to cut it off and drill it out eventually.
One advantage of steel frames though, they last almost indefinitely as long as they stay dry (and being a recreation cyclist I don't care about the 'extra' weight, at 185~ 220 I probably need it LOL .
Hi Paul, another great video. I especially enjoyed watching you paint. I'm sure more content like that would be enjoyable to watch. A question for you; I'm looking to add disc brake tabs to a steel 90's MTB that I use as a commuter/everyday bike, and also the Surly fork. Is that something you're available to do? Or do you have anyone to recommend who is local?
Thank you Mike. I'm retired and not taking on any side jobs, sorry. You could try Chris DeKerf, but he's pretty busy too ...
@@paulbrodie Thank you.
To me, as an Englishman, Stance means ‘how someone or something stands’. Hope this helps.
Changing the stance of the bike by modifying fork length and rear shocks will also drastically alter the steering geometry.
Not entirely, if you add say 50mm to both ends, you will increase the wheelbase and trail length but you will still maintain the castor angle which is important especially for a trials bike. I've built a few cubs with modified fork lengths and I always increased the rear shocks to compensate.
Not sure if it's available in Canada but you need to toss the WD-40 and get you a can of PB Blaster. it's what every can of WD wishes it was... way better,
Hey Mitch. As a Canadian, I can honestly say I have never heard of PB Blaster.
@@paulbrodie don’t worry I will fix you up !
@@thedr309 I mailed your book yesterday morning :)
@@paulbrodie awesome! I can’t wait I will get yours headed your way in the next few days
WD is for evaporating water, that's it
These videos are awesome ! So much knowledge. Congratulation for the channel !
I sanblasted a steel frame today and I was wondering if it can damage the steel ? Could not find any clear answer on the net (some say yes and no). My frame is a Columbus Cromor and I sanblasted it with aluminium oxyde #60 at 80 psi. Thank you very much !
Thanks for liking our videos! Yes, you can damage a thin-walled steel frame with excessive sand blasting, especially if the media is very coarse and sharp. I use glass bead No.6 and it is gentler on the steel, also at 80 psi.
Thank you for this information and your reply @@paulbrodie
You earnt a new subscriber here. As a younger generation but refuses to ride anything else but steel bike, it'd be my pleasure to visit your shop, talk and learn from you if I lived the same neighborhood.
I'd love to have your advice, my steel track bike left seat stay is slightly bent and has significant dent on it in the middle, (but no crack), what should I do?
Sincerely,
Try
Thanks for subscribing. It's hard to offer advice without seeing the frame. Straightening the tube shouldn't be a problem if you are careful. Sometimes you can round out the dent with wooden blocks and then fill it with bronze. No overheating! Have you seen the top tube dent video?
@@paulbrodie, I have just watched and it's amazing so my hope is still alive.
Thank you very much and may you stay safe.
Stance is ride hight and level how high the front is to the back lower stance
For instance the bike is lower but adjusted for comfort
Looks as if the bend in the frame upright is weak and bending forcing it to pinch on the seat post. Unless something changes (shorten the seat post) I'd expect some kind of failure in the future.
I'm not expecting failure, so we differ in that regard. When Mitch made the frame in class he was running out of time, so the full reaming of the seat tube didn't happen. The seat post went in... tightly. Mitch plans on giving the reamer a couple of more passes before assembly.
@@paulbrodie It was the paint flaking on the bottom bracket that prompted my comment, I thought it indicated flexing of some kind.
@@allanhagan5113 Mitch's fillet braze is very robust in that area, so I doubt there is much flex going on. I would tend to blame the actual paint.
👍👌
Bike EXIF is from New Zealand
I always look forward to your videos Paul (and Mitch). I’ve dealt with that seatpost problem on many occasions too. Getting leverage by clamping the post in a vise, like you did was usually the best way. I like to crawl up on the bench and work it from up there.
Some critical feedback: I don’t know if it’s the same for everyone, but there were so many ads in this video. It hasn’t been too distracting until today. I know it’s how you make money on TH-cam, but the ratio of ads to content is feeling unbalanced.
I watch TH-cam and I get ads too. If you get TH-cam Premium, there are no ads but you pay a monthly fee, and we still get paid. You could download an ad blocker, and buy us coffees; that would work too. Thanks for watching and commenting!
WOW! Mitch is really photographic, isn't he. I bet his family photos are tough, Huh? Photographer keeps touching Mitch's face on the camera screen because he thinks Mitch's face is a touch screen camera app.
I'm sure he'll be ok once he gets over his shyness...
So what happened to the fancy dropper post? Was it toast or still usable? A normal seatpost is a kinda disposable price, but a dropped costs 20x as much and would be worth saving.
Yes, the post was still usable, Mitch had to order a couple of Delrin spacers that got a little too warm, but otherwise everything was good.
Two words Caustic soda ( sodium Hydroxide ) no stress just a few days wait
I used to work with caustic soda in a machine shop. It really does eat aluminum, especially if you wait "just a few days".
Hey Paul, I thought I had everything I needed to begin brazing I have a small torch with map gas and oxygen tank and it seems to be working well. The trouble I'm having is i have brass rods of 2mm and the brass runs away as well as the silver solder. I've used plenty pasteflux but I'm still tortured by the metal running away I'm fixing a gardening cart of steel tube.
Could you share what I might be doing wrong. I'm really looking to learn brazing.
Hi Paul, can you share what media you're using in your blast cab? I use garnet and it's a hell of a lot of dust and grit embedded in the material. Any advice appreciated, thank you.
James, I use #6 glass bead, with about 80 psi. Works for me. Thanks for watching :)
Apologies in advance if you have already addressed the following question.
What are your thoughts on painting versus powder-coating, with both systems having been prepared for and applied well?
Powder coat is very durable, but a pain if you need to fix or modify the part, because it is so hard to get off. In terms of look, I think wet paint will always be superior if done well using a high end paint.
Very late with my 2 cents but I think stance us how the bike stands at rest.
It's funny how one definition of stance is a public stated opinion, because the stance of a vehicle is kind of a social statement. I think you forgot about the simpler definition of stance, though. "a way of standing or being placed : posture". The track and wheelbase lengths of a car, It's ride height, tire size/width, etc. (I'm more of a car guy honestly.)
onest
Is there something you cant do? ;-) Greetings
Probably. Thanks for watching :)
Work just seems to get in the way sometimes.... but ............
if you enjoy what you do for a living ,
you will never work a day in your life.
I agree with you.
Won't the weight of the engine add a bit of sag to the forks?
Yes, we will do some experimenting when the side stand gets its' final adjustment.
Ill bet Mitch has a pixelated face in real life ,,, like those undercover secret agents ,,, 00M , as in double 0 ,,, hes licensed to thrill. ,,,
It's not true. Mitch is just a guy with some talents, one of which happens to be filming.
@@paulbrodie thats exactly what Mr Bond would say .....
6:07 is that not to raise the bike vertical for the photoshoot?
It's probably a combination of that and sloppy engineering.
Hi Paul, we used Coke filled into the seattube in our Bike Shop and turned it over for a night back in Steel frame times....Greets Tim
Hi Tim, well that is a unique solution I have never heard of. I guess it must have worked otherwise you wouldn't be telling me!
Cmon admit it you are Mitch ;)
Never. Do you really think the camera just floats through the air and hovers perfectly to get the correct content and exposure?
@@paulbrodie Hopefully you know I was joking 🙃 love your content
@@georgestewart1325 Thank you George.
Regular WD-40 is not a penetrant, it is a lubricant, although they now make a penetrant also.
now this is Mitch! :D :D th-cam.com/video/vZIkd56-pvs/w-d-xo.html and his bike being built :D
Yes, you put 2 and 2 together. Congrats!
Hipster-talk 😀 Most of the bikes shown there are just built to look "nice" (by modern standards). If, like you, one want's to build a bike that's usable, those websites probably aren't the best reference.
Yes, I subscribe to Bike EXIF and Pipeburn, but don't look at the posts as much as I used to, for exactly the reasons you mentioned. Thanks for watching.
RITZ ad. It rhymes with shitz. If you value your health, you won’t eat this garbage.
Hello Paul, once again a brilliant video.
I would like to get back to the tubing used in the frame Mitch built in your class.
It has a bend down tube as seen on so many frames nowadays.
As we all learned (if not already before then finally in your Romax building videos) the head tube/down tube junction faces particularly high loads, for example under hard braking or hitting bumps.
So we would use the down tube end with the longer butt area facing towards the head tube to put the higher strength there. A bend in that area of the down tube seems to me weakening the tube towards the shear loads induced there.
Is that bend just for tire clearance reasons in 29er wheel/front suspension combinations or do the designers at the tubing manufacturers promise themselves any other profit for the mechanical circumstances in the front triangle?
What is your opinion?
Greetings
Heiner
Thank you Heiner. The bend in the downtube is for clearance to the fork crown when the bars are turned at a 90 degree turn. Not for tire clearance. You do not want the fork crown denting the downtube when you fall off.
@@paulbrodie Really? You can tell I am not deeply involved with current suspension forks.
I just had a look at my old Bontrager with the Competition type switchblade fork design. I considered the crown -which also served for the first Rock Shox- quite box styled compared to other fork designs and there still is plenty clearance when I turn it 90 degrees.
I was not aware modern forks are more clearance challenged than the antique designs I am familiar with.
But from the mechanical point of view, wouldn't you agree that a straight down tube would be superior in handling the loads to a bent one? To me a bent down tube looks as if it already suffered from a front crash accident.
@@heinerbreuer6160 Yes, bicycle design has changed a lot. Bigger wheels, longer, wider forks, and much more wheel travel. That's why we need the bent downtubes. Yes, a straight tube is superior, but the bent tubes have a long butt, and are of sufficient OD and wall thickness to make them mostly trouble free.