i learnt to drywall and mud ceilings on your channel. I made a renovation 5 years ago and the passers by always praised my work, they could not believe i was rookie learning from YT, of course it took me a long time to do it, it was my first time. I thank you dearly man.
I learned a lot from your channel, it did drywall on my home only but still, I was able to do the ceiling on a laundry room, I did decor columns where there once was a staircase brick wall [in Europe most of the walls are brick wall even if they are not structural walls no worries] (maybe a nice video idea decor and drywall).
Great video! I’m glad that you realize what is “of course” for a pro is a revelation for DIYs. I like how you show videos that explain how you deal with different details. For example I just parched a 16 inch by 2 foot hole in a wall of drywall covered by a brown coat then plastered (the old gypsum-plaster system). So I prepped the hole (learned from you), added a board behind the top edge, secured 1/2 drywall, added hot mud to replace the 3/8 thickness deficit (learned from you), scrimmed flat (learned from you) then skimmed a layer of lightweight mud (learned from you). Kept organized with a clean water bucket and a dirty water cleaning bucket (learned from you which by the way was the biggest efficiency gain I’ve learned from you). No big deal for a small repair, but thanks to you I knew exactly what the small job would need in materials, tools and sequence. Thank you.
I use the multi tool and hold a vacuum to the cut. I also try to remove any screws that pop. makes it easier on smaller jobs. Bigger jobs?? "smash and pull". great family video!
I'm quite sure I would use my multi-tool 10x more often if the noise wasn't so obnoxious. The person who manages to invent a multi-tool that somehow doesn't turn everything it touches into a loudspeaker will be deservedly rich beyond measure.
when I had to rip out an entire wall of drywall in my bathroom, I scored all the edges and then used a magnet to find all the screws and unscrew them. Came out in one big piece. Very satisfying!
Did the same for most of my projects. Did take a tad bit longer but screws are going to have to be unscrewed anyway, so taking them out first, instead of trying to rip the drywall out around them, works and is cleaner.
It blew my mind to see Ben removing pieces without first removing all the screws, as it hadn't occurred to me that was even an option. I reckon 95% of my drywall-removing time was being spent on: - Finding and marking each screw - Hitting it with driver and unscrewing (if lucky) - Hitting empty drywall near the screw because I hadn't marked where the magnet stopped accurately enough - Hitting empty drywall near the screw because the magnet had decided to stop not quite directly above it - Attempting to remove piece of drywall but realising it was still attached in at least one place - Trying to hunt down the screw(s) I'd missed
I usually use an oscillating tool and a shop vac for zero dust. Just make sure you’re using a carbide grit/grout blade. It cuts faster and straighter through sheetROCK since drywall isn’t made of wood it’s made of gypsum. Regular oscillating tool wood blades dull really quick on drywall.
In addition to making an unholy mess, the sledgehammer swinger s risk some nasty surprises: there are plumbing and electrical lines running through those walls.
I use a few different methods depending on the situation. I do a lot of water damage repair where I need to snap lines and cut 2' up around whole rooms or areas of a home. So I mostly use a Milwaukee cut-off tool hooked up to a shop vac. Depth can be set to match drywall thickness. Its fast, accurate, and pretty dustless. Works similar to the Makita cut-out tool.
Best drywall channel on TH-cam. I’ve learned so much from you over the years. Been watching since you began. I still hear “feather your edges” when I’m scraping off mud. Went from diy zero to hot mud hero. Thanks, Ben!
I love your videos! In my last place I had to mount a tv and also put in a recessed box to thread the cables down the wall and your videos were absolutely integral to learning how to do fix the wall after I butchered the first attempt.
This videos great! I do asbestos inspections a lot so I demo of lots of drywall(maybe not the cleanest) but I find the easiest for demo of all drywall if that’s what you need is use the broad side of the sledge with enough force to break the board, pull it off, then repeat on each side of support board. His method is good for more controlled demo though and I’d use in my house. A crow bar I find is easier than the glazier bar as it has a larger holding surface. You can insert then pull straight out from the board to pop the nails/screws off first and it comes off fully Also yellow mud is what gives me a good indication of asbestos mud from all my inspections. Not sure the reason though
I have the makita tool and it made itself worth it on a medical job that had 5/8 drywall that needed a bunch of patches. Since then I've been doing residential and bringing out the vacuum and the tool and setting it to the proper depth makes me turn to hand methods mostly. I am happy i have it.
Thanks for this video! I learned drywall on the job and lots of it was figuring out for myself what works best. I am super proud to say that you did this EXACTLY how I do it. Right down to the little hammer trick to remove the nail from the claw. I am proud to say the way I taught myself is exactly what a seasoned pro does. Thanks man!
As an aside: sometimes I brad nail a straight piece of plywood where I want the cut, then use that as a guide for the oscillating tool. Gets perfect cuts every time, in half the time
Your so pleasant to watch. Thank you for your teaching. I watched you a lot prior to rocking my new wood shop. It's not perfect, but it's good. Most guys don't rock a wood working shop anyway, but I did, and it looks great. Thanks again. Lowell
Shortly after I became a homeowner we decided we wanted a door where a wall was. When it came time to make the hole, my buddy went head first into it to begin the removal process. He was about an inch away from a cross-brace the stud-finder didn't pick up and a sure concussion 🤣🤣 Wish I had the knowledge of your channel that many years ago. I've done plenty of my own drywall, and I would have skipped a lot of mistakes at the beginning (which I may some day remedy).
I bought themaximum heavy duty compact saw .... That thing is one of my Best purchases. I'd always buy tools when they had the sales on the maximum line at crappy tire. Regardless of what it was I had the mindset that I would use it one day and that thing has worked itself off tenfold
I am on my 2nd Makita drywall cutter. I use it every single week & it pays for itself every time. The negative is, they fitted a brushed motor into a tool that works in the world's dustiest environment. The motors do fail due to repetitive dust ingress. It's a very expensive tool to have that oversight.
There is a tool used for manual cutting of Hardibacker. It's a handle with two carbide teeth on a T-shaped end. After a razor score, it cuts deep into drywall very quickly (and plaster too). Two to three strokes gets you through with about a 1/8" channel and most all the dust fall straight to the ground.
I like to use a rare earth magnet to find the screws for small patch/demo jobs. Once the screws are removed you can pull off full sheets of rock at a time. Also if you use an angle grinder to cut some scrap metal near the wall the dust from the cut-off wheel will settle and magnetize to all of the screw heads to show you where they are located. It is a useful trick if you are removing tons of drywall.
I knew there were reasons I like your videos! A man after my own heart. I'm JUST a homeowner but retired Navy electrician and I do a lot of my own electrical work and really as much of everything as I can do myself. I CRINGE whenever I see someone snap off a nail or screw head and then just drive it in flush or worse, bend it over and hammer it flat into the wood. I LOVE my Franklin sensor! I had only those crappy Zircon sensors for years and I often found myself wanting to dash the thing against an opposite wall!
@@travisharms9772 I haven't tried mine on texture, but... I have two bathrooms that originally had 1970s velvetized wallpaper. Some previous owner covered that with this ugly ass texture and then painted the entire interior of the house--including trim, outlets, light switches and all cover plates with the ugliest, nastiest blue green color. I was a career submariner and it reminded me of the color that submarines are painted inside! So in those bathrooms I first scraped off the high points of the texture and then skim coated entire walls. After light sanding, primer and paint, it looks as smooth as virgin sheetrock. My Franklin can see studs through that. My guess is it's all about 1/4" thick on top of the original sheetrock.
When I was a kid we had an old abandoned garage apartment that we stored tools in. The studs were like 2 feet apart, and the drywall as thin as paper. Great for jumping through. So we did.
I do mostly office renovation move a wall put a new wall up . I use the oscillating saw with a vacuum to limit the dust. I find the board pops off of steel studs easier than wood
I can tell you are very experienced. That smashing drywall into a million little pieces is for the birds. Clean up is a huge nightmare. For people just learning how to do this, don’t pay any attention to the jokers on HGTV. I like your channel content 10 out of 10.
True on plumb and level cuts to keep the dust down I use a magnet to find the fasteners then a cats paws to pull them they have to come out anyways , you can make intermediaries cuts to make a removal panel smaller . The hammer demo will cause nail heads or screw to pop on the other side and area next to the demo if you hit a stud to hard you could move it out of plumb.
My favorite tool is the drywall cutout tool, which is basically a high powered dremel. Almost as good as the makita but much cheaper and it's available on just about every battery platform.
The jiggle is key to removing large sheets. I generally will cut close to the stud then come back and clean up the stud ( cut drywall at half way mark) studs are not always straight.
Oscillating tool with a drywall blade all the way. I usually hold a vac while cutting through the drywall. Like a chaser and end up with almost no mess
I took a strong magnet and found all the screws, could take the entire sheet clean off. Second layer was easy as all the screws are visible. Here in Denmark there are always two layers of drywall, and also always insulation in the walls.
First use a Magnet to find drywall screws, then remove screws. Drywall sheet then can be taken off in one piece it was installed. Much faster & easier.
was gonna mention the makita tool. i bought one eventhough i dont do alot of repairs but i was drywalling a small house and it came in extremely handy. If you need to shave some down its perfect. i find it alot easier to use than the buzz saw. keep up the work, you shown me a ton of tips that have helped me...
I only start to investigate my kids when the screaming stops. Because there’s always some level of noise. When it’s quiet, well that’s when you know something is up. 😂
In the late ‘60’s my parents had a house built. At six years old I couldn’t figure out how footprints got on the walls. About 20 years later while installing drywall, I had and epiphany. Oddest feeling. I felt like shouting it from the rooftops..
Worst I've done is in my 1951 house... Actually the neighbour and his tennant were doing demo in his building next door so I just had them come over and gut my house... The walls were this old type of 3/8 plasterboard with another 3/8 layer of hard plaster over top... kind of an interim era between lath and plaster and modern drywall. It came in 2x4ft sheets and was held on with tiny brad nails every 3/4 inch or so!! Of course the nails did'nt pull out with the boards, so I had the most pleasant job of pulling about 3 gazillion nails out of the studs!!
I use a regular cordless Makita jig saw. At full extension, just make a mark on a coarse blade exactly 5/8" below the base of the saw. Put the blade in a vise right to that mark, then snap the rest of the blade off with good pliers. The jigsaw with short blade is much faster than using a multi-tool and there's no chance of hitting wiring or plumbing.,
The video captions at the beginning come up as "Dryway Dad, I don't think that's how you're supposed to do it", and I now choose to believe that's how you've always gotten your children to refer to you.
Yeah, I've torn out my fair share of drywall. Never used a sledgehammer. It was for flood recovery. Scored a line 4ft up worked it down all around the house took out in as big a section as possible.
They make sawzall blades that only go on 5/8s and have a blunt tip. That saves you from specifically tools just a 1h recip or big boy sawzall will do the job more controllable than ossilating tool. No way someone is gonna bring a sledge hammer on my jobsite for demo unless it's warrantied. HGTV got everyone's hopes up even worse when it's lath and plaster woops! By the way i like this calm candid side of you mistakes were made and its a good thing.
1956 house with rocklath 3/8 x 16‘’ x 48’’ with plaster… ever tried taking that off in big pieces… 😳 it can be done… 😂😂😂 but it’s not easy… good tutorial!
This past spring my buddies kid bought my grandparents house,it was the old 3/8 rock lath,and coated with portland mix then plaster finished. That stuff was brutal!
I use the same technique but I'll open the cavity with a bar instead of a hammer. It has more of a slicing action to it and you can run completely down the cavity if you want then lever off to each side with out making a huge mess. Can concur on the home owner cleanup issue, home owners son did the demo which was ok cause I didn't have the time but I also forgot to check his work and got burned by three screws he missed. My bad.
Door trim is already gone. I would start from there. Take my flat bar and start popping the sheet off of the nails or screws, then, pull it off the rest of the way. Cut the tape at the joint, then move to the next piece. Deconstruction, not demolition.
Chip Gaines's favorite day is "Demo Day!" but most of us have to clean up our own mess. We don't have a crew that comes behind us and do the dirty work.
Great content! If you are tearing out lath and plaster do you just hit it with a hammer until you can get at it with a pry bar? Or is there a trick for doing that too?
I've had good luck by cutting along each stud with a skill saw set just deep enough to cut through the laths. Then it peels off in bigger chunks. Still dusty though.
Im so glad that you did this video. Ive watched that sledge hammer approach that Mike Holmes started . So unprofessional. No advantage to that method, creates a big mess and you can hurt yourself. I think a sawzall works better.
Damn, no mistaking whose daughter that is lol. Good thing you've got a handsome face to pass down :) I'm definitely in the buzz saw category, works so well and can cut nails/screws flush besides. Carbide utility knives help too, otherwise gets dull so quickly.
One more time, an awesome video! I was just curious about why remove this drywall, it seems to be in a good shape. I dont think you would do it just for the video, would you? Haha
WorksafeBC recently removed the 1990 cutoff for asbestos testing requirements. Now any year of construction requires testing if you are working to the letter of the law/regulations. Crazy? Probably.
This video needs to be shown to every employee of mitigation companies... As someone who's installed a ton of drywall doing restoration after fire/water damage, the people who do the demo couldn't cut a straight line if their life depended on it. Everything is always cut out or broken illogically, almost never on the studs, and almost never plumb and there's almost always screws and nails still sticking out and random pieces of damaged drywall left on the walls/ceilings. Yes I understand those guys make minimum wage and probably don't have any training, but what happened to having pride in your work?
i learnt to drywall and mud ceilings on your channel. I made a renovation 5 years ago and the passers by always praised my work, they could not believe i was rookie learning from YT, of course it took me a long time to do it, it was my first time. I thank you dearly man.
I did some minor drywall repair and painting by learning everything on TH-cam. The greatest lesson I learned is; pay someone else to do it.
My pleasure!
I learned a lot from your channel, it did drywall on my home only but still, I was able to do the ceiling on a laundry room, I did decor columns where there once was a staircase brick wall [in Europe most of the walls are brick wall even if they are not structural walls no worries] (maybe a nice video idea decor and drywall).
Great video! I’m glad that you realize what is “of course” for a pro is a revelation for DIYs. I like how you show videos that explain how you deal with different details.
For example I just parched a 16 inch by 2 foot hole in a wall of drywall covered by a brown coat then plastered (the old gypsum-plaster system). So I prepped the hole (learned from you), added a board behind the top edge, secured 1/2 drywall, added hot mud to replace the 3/8 thickness deficit (learned from you), scrimmed flat (learned from you) then skimmed a layer of lightweight mud (learned from you). Kept organized with a clean water bucket and a dirty water cleaning bucket (learned from you which by the way was the biggest efficiency gain I’ve learned from you). No big deal for a small repair, but thanks to you I knew exactly what the small job would need in materials, tools and sequence. Thank you.
I’m happy to hear it 🙂🤝
I use the multi tool and hold a vacuum to the cut. I also try to remove any screws that pop. makes it easier on smaller jobs. Bigger jobs?? "smash and pull". great family video!
I'm quite sure I would use my multi-tool 10x more often if the noise wasn't so obnoxious. The person who manages to invent a multi-tool that somehow doesn't turn everything it touches into a loudspeaker will be deservedly rich beyond measure.
when I had to rip out an entire wall of drywall in my bathroom, I scored all the edges and then used a magnet to find all the screws and unscrew them. Came out in one big piece. Very satisfying!
Did the same for most of my projects. Did take a tad bit longer but screws are going to have to be unscrewed anyway, so taking them out first, instead of trying to rip the drywall out around them, works and is cleaner.
It blew my mind to see Ben removing pieces without first removing all the screws, as it hadn't occurred to me that was even an option. I reckon 95% of my drywall-removing time was being spent on:
- Finding and marking each screw
- Hitting it with driver and unscrewing (if lucky)
- Hitting empty drywall near the screw because I hadn't marked where the magnet stopped accurately enough
- Hitting empty drywall near the screw because the magnet had decided to stop not quite directly above it
- Attempting to remove piece of drywall but realising it was still attached in at least one place
- Trying to hunt down the screw(s) I'd missed
The absolute BEST part of this video was seeing you have your kids with you on the job! Nothing better then family bonding through activity 👏 🙌 👍 ❤️
I usually use an oscillating tool and a shop vac for zero dust. Just make sure you’re using a carbide grit/grout blade. It cuts faster and straighter through sheetROCK since drywall isn’t made of wood it’s made of gypsum. Regular oscillating tool wood blades dull really quick on drywall.
To be fair, it's easiest to hammer a hand hole to get started then yank away. A sledge is not needed. Don't call me if it's lath/plaster.
I prefer the drunken headbutt method.
In addition to making an unholy mess, the sledgehammer swinger s risk some nasty surprises: there are plumbing and electrical lines running through those walls.
Yup.
I use a few different methods depending on the situation. I do a lot of water damage repair where I need to snap lines and cut 2' up around whole rooms or areas of a home. So I mostly use a Milwaukee cut-off tool hooked up to a shop vac. Depth can be set to match drywall thickness. Its fast, accurate, and pretty dustless. Works similar to the Makita cut-out tool.
"Always looking for studs" 😂😂
Best drywall channel on TH-cam. I’ve learned so much from you over the years. Been watching since you began. I still hear “feather your edges” when I’m scraping off mud. Went from diy zero to hot mud hero. Thanks, Ben!
🙂
I love your videos! In my last place I had to mount a tv and also put in a recessed box to thread the cables down the wall and your videos were absolutely integral to learning how to do fix the wall after I butchered the first attempt.
This videos great! I do asbestos inspections a lot so I demo of lots of drywall(maybe not the cleanest) but I find the easiest for demo of all drywall if that’s what you need is use the broad side of the sledge with enough force to break the board, pull it off, then repeat on each side of support board.
His method is good for more controlled demo though and I’d use in my house. A crow bar I find is easier than the glazier bar as it has a larger holding surface. You can insert then pull straight out from the board to pop the nails/screws off first and it comes off fully
Also yellow mud is what gives me a good indication of asbestos mud from all my inspections. Not sure the reason though
I have the makita tool and it made itself worth it on a medical job that had 5/8 drywall that needed a bunch of patches. Since then I've been doing residential and bringing out the vacuum and the tool and setting it to the proper depth makes me turn to hand methods mostly. I am happy i have it.
I after marking, I just hook up my Makita drywall saw to my festool ct midi and cut away. Good info for homeowners though. Good job Ben!
Thanks for this video! I learned drywall on the job and lots of it was figuring out for myself what works best. I am super proud to say that you did this EXACTLY how I do it. Right down to the little hammer trick to remove the nail from the claw. I am proud to say the way I taught myself is exactly what a seasoned pro does. Thanks man!
As an aside: sometimes I brad nail a straight piece of plywood where I want the cut, then use that as a guide for the oscillating tool. Gets perfect cuts every time, in half the time
Love the Franklin Sensor and also I approve of the methodical method to remove drywall (plasterboard here in the UK).
Oscillating tool and hold a vacuum right next to it or even tape the vacuum wand to it if you have a long piece to do, there’s no dust to worry about.
Your so pleasant to watch. Thank you for your teaching. I watched you a lot prior to rocking my new wood shop. It's not perfect, but it's good. Most guys don't rock a wood working shop anyway, but I did, and it looks great.
Thanks again.
Lowell
You are very welcome 🙂
So cute she looks identical to you ! ❤
Shortly after I became a homeowner we decided we wanted a door where a wall was. When it came time to make the hole, my buddy went head first into it to begin the removal process. He was about an inch away from a cross-brace the stud-finder didn't pick up and a sure concussion 🤣🤣
Wish I had the knowledge of your channel that many years ago. I've done plenty of my own drywall, and I would have skipped a lot of mistakes at the beginning (which I may some day remedy).
I bought themaximum heavy duty compact saw .... That thing is one of my Best purchases. I'd always buy tools when they had the sales on the maximum line at crappy tire. Regardless of what it was I had the mindset that I would use it one day and that thing has worked itself off tenfold
I am on my 2nd Makita drywall cutter.
I use it every single week & it pays for itself every time.
The negative is, they fitted a brushed motor into a tool that works in the world's dustiest environment. The motors do fail due to repetitive dust ingress.
It's a very expensive tool to have that oversight.
There is a tool used for manual cutting of Hardibacker. It's a handle with two carbide teeth on a T-shaped end. After a razor score, it cuts deep into drywall very quickly (and plaster too). Two to three strokes gets you through with about a 1/8" channel and most all the dust fall straight to the ground.
That small red Richardson pry bar is a gem, there really is nothing quite as perfect I've found here in the US. Luckily I have one!
Makita has a really cool drywall saw - it's a stubby length cordless reciprocating saw with a vacuum attachment.
Works great!
This is the same way. I've always removed the drywall glad to see. I'm not the only one!
I like to use a rare earth magnet to find the screws for small patch/demo jobs. Once the screws are removed you can pull off full sheets of rock at a time. Also if you use an angle grinder to cut some scrap metal near the wall the dust from the cut-off wheel will settle and magnetize to all of the screw heads to show you where they are located. It is a useful trick if you are removing tons of drywall.
Ha, that sounds ingenius.
I knew there were reasons I like your videos! A man after my own heart. I'm JUST a homeowner but retired Navy electrician and I do a lot of my own electrical work and really as much of everything as I can do myself. I CRINGE whenever I see someone snap off a nail or screw head and then just drive it in flush or worse, bend it over and hammer it flat into the wood.
I LOVE my Franklin sensor! I had only those crappy Zircon sensors for years and I often found myself wanting to dash the thing against an opposite wall!
Does a Franklin sensor do better with textures? I find if there’s a texture on a wall or ceiling my zircon stud finder is lost
@@travisharms9772 I haven't tried mine on texture, but... I have two bathrooms that originally had 1970s velvetized wallpaper.
Some previous owner covered that with this ugly ass texture and then painted the entire interior of the house--including trim, outlets, light switches and all cover plates with the ugliest, nastiest blue green color. I was a career submariner and it reminded me of the color that submarines are painted inside!
So in those bathrooms I first scraped off the high points of the texture and then skim coated entire walls. After light sanding, primer and paint, it looks as smooth as virgin sheetrock.
My Franklin can see studs through that. My guess is it's all about 1/4" thick on top of the original sheetrock.
For Straight cuts, score the line with a utility blade, then follow up with the oscillating multi-tool/fine saw.
That works well👍
When I was a kid we had an old abandoned garage apartment that we stored tools in. The studs were like 2 feet apart, and the drywall as thin as paper. Great for jumping through. So we did.
I do mostly office renovation move a wall put a new wall up . I use the oscillating saw with a vacuum to limit the dust. I find the board pops off of steel studs easier than wood
I can tell you are very experienced. That smashing drywall into a million little pieces is for the birds. Clean up is a huge nightmare. For people just learning how to do this, don’t pay any attention to the jokers on HGTV. I like your channel content 10 out of 10.
Thank you!!!!
True on plumb and level cuts to keep the dust down I use a magnet to find the fasteners then a cats paws to pull them they have to come out anyways , you can make intermediaries cuts to make a removal panel smaller . The hammer demo will cause nail heads or screw to pop on the other side and area next to the demo if you hit a stud to hard you could move it out of plumb.
My favorite tool is the drywall cutout tool, which is basically a high powered dremel. Almost as good as the makita but much cheaper and it's available on just about every battery platform.
The jiggle is key to removing large sheets.
I generally will cut close to the stud then come back and clean up the stud ( cut drywall at half way mark) studs are not always straight.
Oscillating tool with a drywall blade all the way. I usually hold a vac while cutting through the drywall. Like a chaser and end up with almost no mess
I took a strong magnet and found all the screws, could take the entire sheet clean off. Second layer was easy as all the screws are visible.
Here in Denmark there are always two layers of drywall, and also always insulation in the walls.
Good idea 👍
First use a Magnet to find drywall screws, then remove screws. Drywall sheet then can be taken off in one piece it was installed. Much faster & easier.
I find that situations in which big pieces of drywall are being removed tend to be older walls and most of the time they're nails
was gonna mention the makita tool. i bought one eventhough i dont do alot of repairs but i was drywalling a small house and it came in extremely handy. If you need to shave some down its perfect. i find it alot easier to use than the buzz saw. keep up the work, you shown me a ton of tips that have helped me...
Very informative and very enjoyable watching you interact with your family.
Perfect timing on this video. Thank you sir.
i think i owe u this , THANK YOU SO MUCH , you save me thousands and gave the SKILLS to do so much
I forgot about that Makita drywall cutter. Dang. I've just been happy with an oscillating tool.
I only start to investigate my kids when the screaming stops. Because there’s always some level of noise. When it’s quiet, well that’s when you know something is up. 😂
You're great at talking us through the process. You should get your own HGTV show.
The curse of the Tradesman; there’s always something to do.
In the late ‘60’s my parents had a house built. At six years old I couldn’t figure out how footprints got on the walls. About 20 years later while installing drywall, I had and epiphany. Oddest feeling.
I felt like shouting it from the rooftops..
😂
I always try to cut down the center of the stud bay, this way I can rock the dry wall on the stud to easily break it from the screws.
Good instructions. Many I have used in my 125 yo house.
BTW houses this old, the studs may not be 16” on center.
Worst I've done is in my 1951 house... Actually the neighbour and his tennant were doing demo in his building next door so I just had them come over and gut my house... The walls were this old type of 3/8 plasterboard with another 3/8 layer of hard plaster over top... kind of an interim era between lath and plaster and modern drywall. It came in 2x4ft sheets and was held on with tiny brad nails every 3/4 inch or so!! Of course the nails did'nt pull out with the boards, so I had the most pleasant job of pulling about 3 gazillion nails out of the studs!!
You know, when it’s that bad sometimes just banging them in or flat is the way to go.
I use a regular cordless Makita jig saw. At full extension, just make a mark on a coarse blade exactly 5/8" below the base of the saw. Put the blade in a vise right to that mark, then snap the rest of the blade off with good pliers. The jigsaw with short blade is much faster than using a multi-tool and there's no chance of hitting wiring or plumbing.,
But why is your wife always looking for studs?😂
Be careful not to get the cheaper Franklin Sensors Stud Finders. I bought one at Harbor Freight that was horrid. Totally worth getting the bigger one.
The video captions at the beginning come up as "Dryway Dad, I don't think that's how you're supposed to do it", and I now choose to believe that's how you've always gotten your children to refer to you.
😂
Yeah, I've torn out my fair share of drywall. Never used a sledgehammer. It was for flood recovery. Scored a line 4ft up worked it down all around the house took out in as big a section as possible.
That's a really good advice
That WAS very clean! Nice.
The glaziers tool is a common tool that beekeepers use!
brave lad, digging into that box knife without safety glasses
They make sawzall blades that only go on 5/8s and have a blunt tip. That saves you from specifically tools just a 1h recip or big boy sawzall will do the job more controllable than ossilating tool. No way someone is gonna bring a sledge hammer on my jobsite for demo unless it's warrantied. HGTV got everyone's hopes up even worse when it's lath and plaster woops! By the way i like this calm candid side of you mistakes were made and its a good thing.
1956 house with rocklath 3/8 x 16‘’ x 48’’ with plaster… ever tried taking that off in big pieces… 😳 it can be done… 😂😂😂 but it’s not easy… good tutorial!
This past spring my buddies kid bought my grandparents house,it was the old 3/8 rock lath,and coated with portland mix then plaster finished. That stuff was brutal!
the family cheering your work was the BEST! :)
I use the same technique but I'll open the cavity with a bar instead of a hammer. It has more of a slicing action to it and you can run completely down the cavity if you want then lever off to each side with out making a huge mess. Can concur on the home owner cleanup issue, home owners son did the demo which was ok cause I didn't have the time but I also forgot to check his work and got burned by three screws he missed. My bad.
I use an oscillator. It was $18 from Wal-Mart and I've used it over a dozen times.
I mark with level. Then use my multi tool / fine tool to make my cuts with shop vac. Then pull off in pieces to dispose of
10:07 might be the best moment in the video. ;-) Though seeing those nice big panels come off _is_ satisfying!
Im up listening for sick kids and kept hearing YOUR kids in the background and kept taking my ear buds out thinking it was mine. 🤣
You have to test every house from 2018 & older as per worksafe, I have been testing for over 15 Years
Door trim is already gone. I would start from there. Take my flat bar and start popping the sheet off of the nails or screws, then, pull it off the rest of the way. Cut the tape at the joint, then move to the next piece.
Deconstruction, not demolition.
Great show. Thank you.
Oscillating tool works the best for me I remove moldy drywall every day
I do like you; neat as possible because I usually need to put the drywall back after adding an outlet or whatever.
Thanks for this Ben. Every time I see the TV monkeys use a sledge hammer to break out walls and cabinets, I want to scream...
Chip Gaines's favorite day is "Demo Day!" but most of us have to clean up our own mess. We don't have a crew that comes behind us and do the dirty work.
Came for the demo; stayed for the cheering!
Olfa blade for the win!
I’ll use a magnet to find screws and drill them out, then take the sheet when it’s mostly/entirely detached. Nails are a different story.
Hey there!!! I’m a carpenter student. My question is, should I screw the drywall only on the studs and avoid the noggin ? Or it doesn’t matter?
I just cut down a 14tpi sawzall blade and let it eat! Usually 1.5 inch.
I always use the tool
Great content! If you are tearing out lath and plaster do you just hit it with a hammer until you can get at it with a pry bar? Or is there a trick for doing that too?
I've had good luck by cutting along each stud with a skill saw set just deep enough to cut through the laths. Then it peels off in bigger chunks. Still dusty though.
Im so glad that you did this video. Ive watched that sledge hammer approach that Mike Holmes started . So unprofessional. No advantage to that method, creates a big mess and you can hurt yourself. I think a sawzall works better.
Hey Ben, How are the new work shoes working out for you? You changed from Stan Smiths..
Great tips!!!
Damn, no mistaking whose daughter that is lol. Good thing you've got a handsome face to pass down :) I'm definitely in the buzz saw category, works so well and can cut nails/screws flush besides. Carbide utility knives help too, otherwise gets dull so quickly.
What do you suggest with plaster over wallboard?
One more time, an awesome video! I was just curious about why remove this drywall, it seems to be in a good shape. I dont think you would do it just for the video, would you? Haha
glad to see you wearing a mask in this one. safety first.
My plumber swears by the Makita drywall saw.
Define, “best”, lol!😂
WorksafeBC recently removed the 1990 cutoff for asbestos testing requirements. Now any year of construction requires testing if you are working to the letter of the law/regulations. Crazy? Probably.
What was the reason for cutting this out?
Gotta get yourself the makita drywall saw the seam would have been 30 seconds!! Oh there it is.
Please go over your tool belt if you can one of these days. Thank you sir
This video needs to be shown to every employee of mitigation companies... As someone who's installed a ton of drywall doing restoration after fire/water damage, the people who do the demo couldn't cut a straight line if their life depended on it. Everything is always cut out or broken illogically, almost never on the studs, and almost never plumb and there's almost always screws and nails still sticking out and random pieces of damaged drywall left on the walls/ceilings. Yes I understand those guys make minimum wage and probably don't have any training, but what happened to having pride in your work?
Removing drywall that wasn’t properly fastened to the framing is easy.
Love the channel
Always fun to have an enthusiastic audience “on the set”! But only if you can handle the ridicule.
You needed to add a nail plate where the power went through the stud. I believe those are required by code.
Not required. Nail plates are only needed if the wire is less than 1.5" from the edge of the stud.