i learnt to drywall and mud ceilings on your channel. I made a renovation 5 years ago and the passers by always praised my work, they could not believe i was rookie learning from YT, of course it took me a long time to do it, it was my first time. I thank you dearly man.
I learned a lot from your channel, it did drywall on my home only but still, I was able to do the ceiling on a laundry room, I did decor columns where there once was a staircase brick wall [in Europe most of the walls are brick wall even if they are not structural walls no worries] (maybe a nice video idea decor and drywall).
I was doing job for family a little while back, the dad was a younger guy a couple years older than me, really smart, a computer programmer or something like that and he was interested in getting more handy but he was talking about how he didn't really have any of the skills but he was getting started with building some shelves for the garage. I said nah man, the reason you hire us is because you're working a 9-5, then have kids, part of your house is going to be unusable for the duration of the job, you don't have the tools we have or the speed but there's no reason that if you wanted to and had the inclination you could have done this job while taking time and still had a good result. Also that I bet those shelves are going to turn out great, don't be discouraged that you aren't doing things as easily as the guy you see on youtube, take the time to get done well and that will add up and be great and rewarding. I really think anybody can tackle the jobs the trades do if necessary or if interested in learning as a hobby, it's just going to take a lot longer and there will be a learning curve, the entire industry exists because the modern world revolves around the exchange of skilled labour. There is no rule that you need to get a drywaller in to do your drywall or even (at least here) that you need to get an electrician in to do *YOUR* electrics.
when I had to rip out an entire wall of drywall in my bathroom, I scored all the edges and then used a magnet to find all the screws and unscrew them. Came out in one big piece. Very satisfying!
Did the same for most of my projects. Did take a tad bit longer but screws are going to have to be unscrewed anyway, so taking them out first, instead of trying to rip the drywall out around them, works and is cleaner.
It blew my mind to see Ben removing pieces without first removing all the screws, as it hadn't occurred to me that was even an option. I reckon 95% of my drywall-removing time was being spent on: - Finding and marking each screw - Hitting it with driver and unscrewing (if lucky) - Hitting empty drywall near the screw because I hadn't marked where the magnet stopped accurately enough - Hitting empty drywall near the screw because the magnet had decided to stop not quite directly above it - Attempting to remove piece of drywall but realising it was still attached in at least one place - Trying to hunt down the screw(s) I'd missed
No professional drywall crew I've ever worked with has done the magnet method that's a very interesting tip I've never thought of or learned from anyone.We are usually in a completely sealed environment using plastic to cover finished floors ceilings or walls we are not working on and once the corners are scored to precent getting further damage into the areas you aren't working on you just beat a hole in the board and start removing by hand or prybars if it's a stubborn area with lost of screws or plaster and lathe.
@@apmeehan Sounds like you had a weak magnet or one that was too big. I used some strong magnet darts from a magnet dart toy and it locks right onto the screw head, you just remove it right then, you don't need to mark it.
Listening to Ben giving calm instructions of how it's done properly is like listening to Mister Rogers. I appreciate all the minor advice like shaking off the nail from the hammer or how to check for nails left in the stud.
Great video! I’m glad that you realize what is “of course” for a pro is a revelation for DIYs. I like how you show videos that explain how you deal with different details. For example I just parched a 16 inch by 2 foot hole in a wall of drywall covered by a brown coat then plastered (the old gypsum-plaster system). So I prepped the hole (learned from you), added a board behind the top edge, secured 1/2 drywall, added hot mud to replace the 3/8 thickness deficit (learned from you), scrimmed flat (learned from you) then skimmed a layer of lightweight mud (learned from you). Kept organized with a clean water bucket and a dirty water cleaning bucket (learned from you which by the way was the biggest efficiency gain I’ve learned from you). No big deal for a small repair, but thanks to you I knew exactly what the small job would need in materials, tools and sequence. Thank you.
100% concur with all of this. I'm sure I'm not alone in realising that what prevented me from learning all this stuff long ago was not simply because I didn't know how, or that it seemed too complicated or difficult (though I did presume it would be both 😅), but because the paralysing feeling of not knowing where to even start made it so that it never occurred to me that I *could*. So the most valuable part of these videos, for me, is just how approachable and unintimidating he makes everything seem, and how reassuring it is to just get a sense of what the steps look like. Not to say any of it is *easy* of course! But going from "Done badly" to "Done well" is a far smaller step than going from "Would never try" to "Have tried". So thank you@@vancouvercarpenter for helping us all to take that first step!
I'm a plumber, definitely gonna take care to try to leave it nice and clean/prepped for the drywall guy as much as I can now that I know what to look for!
Best drywall channel on TH-cam. I’ve learned so much from you over the years. Been watching since you began. I still hear “feather your edges” when I’m scraping off mud. Went from diy zero to hot mud hero. Thanks, Ben!
Thank you for another good video. I have learned so much from you. I'm pretty proud of the drywall work that I've done, especially for a 75-year-old. It always seems like you enjoy what you do. You need a donate button!
Well done video. I'm a GC and have to tear out an entire finished basement and I had never heard of the drywall saw and will be buying one as that will save us a ton of time. Thanks.
The Makita drywall cut out saw is by far one of my favorite tools. With a dust separator attached, I keep the house virtually dust free - it's ABSOLUTELY worth it!!
I use the multi tool and hold a vacuum to the cut. I also try to remove any screws that pop. makes it easier on smaller jobs. Bigger jobs?? "smash and pull". great family video!
I'm quite sure I would use my multi-tool 10x more often if the noise wasn't so obnoxious. The person who manages to invent a multi-tool that somehow doesn't turn everything it touches into a loudspeaker will be deservedly rich beyond measure.
Makita makes an amazing drywall cut off saw with a dust extraction port that virtually entirely eliminates dust. It's so great that I'm a *very loud activist* for it 😆 Wait omg it's in the video!! This is exactly what I was looking for! I'm so happy!!!! It's worth the $250 just for the dust extraction!
I love your videos! In my last place I had to mount a tv and also put in a recessed box to thread the cables down the wall and your videos were absolutely integral to learning how to do fix the wall after I butchered the first attempt.
I use a few different methods depending on the situation. I do a lot of water damage repair where I need to snap lines and cut 2' up around whole rooms or areas of a home. So I mostly use a Milwaukee cut-off tool hooked up to a shop vac. Depth can be set to match drywall thickness. Its fast, accurate, and pretty dustless. Works similar to the Makita cut-out tool.
In addition to making an unholy mess, the sledgehammer swinger s risk some nasty surprises: there are plumbing and electrical lines running through those walls.
I just ripped out a wall in my basement then saw him post this so I'm thinking I was gonna be shown a cleaner, faster way to do it...I did what you said and while it was messier, it was much, much faster...easier and quicker just to block off where your working and cover things up than to do it the way he showed.
Great video. I used to help a friend of mine who had a remodeling business when I was younger and that was exactly what we did. It’s just so so much cleaner and he was meticulous, son picked that up quick. Love your kids in the background 👌.
I have the makita tool and it made itself worth it on a medical job that had 5/8 drywall that needed a bunch of patches. Since then I've been doing residential and bringing out the vacuum and the tool and setting it to the proper depth makes me turn to hand methods mostly. I am happy i have it.
Great job Ben! 💕👏👍 New family house? Or family just tagged along to project. I love the run the hammer against studs trick, Ive always done that too. PS- what about those rotozip tools for cutting drywall? Or are those just good for cutting boxes
I am on my 2nd Makita drywall cutter. I use it every single week & it pays for itself every time. The negative is, they fitted a brushed motor into a tool that works in the world's dustiest environment. The motors do fail due to repetitive dust ingress. It's a very expensive tool to have that oversight.
Your so pleasant to watch. Thank you for your teaching. I watched you a lot prior to rocking my new wood shop. It's not perfect, but it's good. Most guys don't rock a wood working shop anyway, but I did, and it looks great. Thanks again. Lowell
Thanks for this video! I learned drywall on the job and lots of it was figuring out for myself what works best. I am super proud to say that you did this EXACTLY how I do it. Right down to the little hammer trick to remove the nail from the claw. I am proud to say the way I taught myself is exactly what a seasoned pro does. Thanks man!
As an aside: sometimes I brad nail a straight piece of plywood where I want the cut, then use that as a guide for the oscillating tool. Gets perfect cuts every time, in half the time
This videos great! I do asbestos inspections a lot so I demo of lots of drywall(maybe not the cleanest) but I find the easiest for demo of all drywall if that’s what you need is use the broad side of the sledge with enough force to break the board, pull it off, then repeat on each side of support board. His method is good for more controlled demo though and I’d use in my house. A crow bar I find is easier than the glazier bar as it has a larger holding surface. You can insert then pull straight out from the board to pop the nails/screws off first and it comes off fully Also yellow mud is what gives me a good indication of asbestos mud from all my inspections. Not sure the reason though
I use the Olfa knife as a paint can opener and slotted screw driver all the time too, when I don't want to make a trip to the tool box. It also works great for removing T50 staples.
One thing I learned with an oscillating tool, and it really depends on how often you use it and with which type of blade, is pushing it through the workpiece, or pulling it. It is user comfort, what feels best to you. Some have better control pushing the tool and some pulling the tool through the workpiece...
I've used that Makita Drywall tool with a vacuum attached and it is AMAZING, virtually no dust at all, it's the only thing I'm willing to use without full dust protection in a customers home.
Great video. I've done it that way a few times. But I prefer just running right along the edge of the studs with a sawzall and then scabbing twoby's for nailers or even better cutting down the middle of the twoby like you're doing only with a multi tool.
I knew there were reasons I like your videos! A man after my own heart. I'm JUST a homeowner but retired Navy electrician and I do a lot of my own electrical work and really as much of everything as I can do myself. I CRINGE whenever I see someone snap off a nail or screw head and then just drive it in flush or worse, bend it over and hammer it flat into the wood. I LOVE my Franklin sensor! I had only those crappy Zircon sensors for years and I often found myself wanting to dash the thing against an opposite wall!
@@travisharms9772 I haven't tried mine on texture, but... I have two bathrooms that originally had 1970s velvetized wallpaper. Some previous owner covered that with this ugly ass texture and then painted the entire interior of the house--including trim, outlets, light switches and all cover plates with the ugliest, nastiest blue green color. I was a career submariner and it reminded me of the color that submarines are painted inside! So in those bathrooms I first scraped off the high points of the texture and then skim coated entire walls. After light sanding, primer and paint, it looks as smooth as virgin sheetrock. My Franklin can see studs through that. My guess is it's all about 1/4" thick on top of the original sheetrock.
I've used a circular saw with a fiber cement blade with great success. Quite dusty, but fast and leaves a clean edge. It won't cut too deep if you set it properly.
I usually use an oscillating tool and a shop vac for zero dust. Just make sure you’re using a carbide grit/grout blade. It cuts faster and straighter through sheetROCK since drywall isn’t made of wood it’s made of gypsum. Regular oscillating tool wood blades dull really quick on drywall.
I can tell you are very experienced. That smashing drywall into a million little pieces is for the birds. Clean up is a huge nightmare. For people just learning how to do this, don’t pay any attention to the jokers on HGTV. I like your channel content 10 out of 10.
5:44 I love using my cheap cordless jigsaw for stuff like that. Truth is you can just--if you only use it for this purpose--epoxy or glue or even tape a spacer to the bottom of the tool so it will only go in as deep as the drywall panel. That's an option for a crafty person
Rotary zip tool is quick and easy and costs less than $100. It is good for going around electrical boxes for the new drywall. It will follow the studs. It does leave it on the stud. Need carbide bit if there is veneer plaster.
First use a Magnet to find drywall screws, then remove screws. Drywall sheet then can be taken off in one piece it was installed. Much faster & easier.
I like to use a rare earth magnet to find the screws for small patch/demo jobs. Once the screws are removed you can pull off full sheets of rock at a time. Also if you use an angle grinder to cut some scrap metal near the wall the dust from the cut-off wheel will settle and magnetize to all of the screw heads to show you where they are located. It is a useful trick if you are removing tons of drywall.
I bought themaximum heavy duty compact saw .... That thing is one of my Best purchases. I'd always buy tools when they had the sales on the maximum line at crappy tire. Regardless of what it was I had the mindset that I would use it one day and that thing has worked itself off tenfold
Good video. Just a quick comment. By removing all the socket and electrical outlet covers first you could immediately find the "low hanging fruit" of the studs. This does not expose all of the studs but since you have to remove all of the covers it removes the need for the stud finder on those studs. I used that method for finding the studs in my daughter's apartment to mount her TV. (Of course she doesn't have a studfinder. PlayStation yes, studfinder, no). Great video though...
The jiggle is key to removing large sheets. I generally will cut close to the stud then come back and clean up the stud ( cut drywall at half way mark) studs are not always straight.
When I was a kid we had an old abandoned garage apartment that we stored tools in. The studs were like 2 feet apart, and the drywall as thin as paper. Great for jumping through. So we did.
There is a tool used for manual cutting of Hardibacker. It's a handle with two carbide teeth on a T-shaped end. After a razor score, it cuts deep into drywall very quickly (and plaster too). Two to three strokes gets you through with about a 1/8" channel and most all the dust fall straight to the ground.
was gonna mention the makita tool. i bought one eventhough i dont do alot of repairs but i was drywalling a small house and it came in extremely handy. If you need to shave some down its perfect. i find it alot easier to use than the buzz saw. keep up the work, you shown me a ton of tips that have helped me...
I use a regular cordless Makita jig saw. At full extension, just make a mark on a coarse blade exactly 5/8" below the base of the saw. Put the blade in a vise right to that mark, then snap the rest of the blade off with good pliers. The jigsaw with short blade is much faster than using a multi-tool and there's no chance of hitting wiring or plumbing.,
Shortly after I became a homeowner we decided we wanted a door where a wall was. When it came time to make the hole, my buddy went head first into it to begin the removal process. He was about an inch away from a cross-brace the stud-finder didn't pick up and a sure concussion 🤣🤣 Wish I had the knowledge of your channel that many years ago. I've done plenty of my own drywall, and I would have skipped a lot of mistakes at the beginning (which I may some day remedy).
I do mostly office renovation move a wall put a new wall up . I use the oscillating saw with a vacuum to limit the dust. I find the board pops off of steel studs easier than wood
True on plumb and level cuts to keep the dust down I use a magnet to find the fasteners then a cats paws to pull them they have to come out anyways , you can make intermediaries cuts to make a removal panel smaller . The hammer demo will cause nail heads or screw to pop on the other side and area next to the demo if you hit a stud to hard you could move it out of plumb.
My favorite tool is the drywall cutout tool, which is basically a high powered dremel. Almost as good as the makita but much cheaper and it's available on just about every battery platform.
Hello vancouver carpenter. I am looking for a video that shows how to replace a full sheet or section of drywall. That includes showing how to remove/replace tape from inside corners and cellings. Do you have any showing this?
Oscillating tool with a drywall blade all the way. I usually hold a vac while cutting through the drywall. Like a chaser and end up with almost no mess
I just crumple a 000 fine piece of steel wool right next to the drywall and the little pieces stick to the screws. It’s so easy to find all the studs without marking the walls. Push the screw bit into the steel wool dust and unscrew the screw. It’s also an awesome trick for hanging cabinets so you don’t miss the studs. When you are done installing just blow on the spots and they disappear. This trick doesn’t work well on plaster but drywall, it’s the fastest and easiest way to find all the studs. Try it once and you will appreciate how much time you save.
Mr. Carpenter what toolbelt do you use? My bf said he liked it and I would like to surprise him with it but I don’t know anything about these things pls help 🙏🙏❤️
I only start to investigate my kids when the screaming stops. Because there’s always some level of noise. When it’s quiet, well that’s when you know something is up. 😂
In the late ‘60’s my parents had a house built. At six years old I couldn’t figure out how footprints got on the walls. About 20 years later while installing drywall, I had and epiphany. Oddest feeling. I felt like shouting it from the rooftops..
I like to use a rare earth magnet on a string to find all the screws/nails so I can pull them with a cat's paw or by jamming a drill through the mud.. then you get a huge piece, fully intact, and barely any mess.
Door trim is already gone. I would start from there. Take my flat bar and start popping the sheet off of the nails or screws, then, pull it off the rest of the way. Cut the tape at the joint, then move to the next piece. Deconstruction, not demolition.
The FEMA demo crews that were sent in after hurricane flooded condos near where I live were having to remove the bottom 2 ft of drywall b/c of water. All of them were using a jigsaw. I was kind of confused as to why b/c it seems that would be a terrible option, and you would be hitting electric cable. One of the workers showed me how it was done and what they did is they take a jigsaw blade and pull the jigsaw blade out as far as it will extend. If the drywall you are cutting/removing is 1/2" you measure from the plate of the jigsaw out a 1/2 and mark your blade and then cut the blade (grinder with thin cutting disc worked great but there's a million ways to cut a jigsaw blade) at 1/2." The reason they were doing this is b/c you don't have to worry about accidentally cutting electric cable behind the drywall and it cuts extremely fast and (what i really love) the jigsaw blade pushes the cut dust in behind the drywall. It literally makes like almost no dust. You don't have to worry about studs either. When you cut a horizontal line and suddenly you feel the stud just pick up on the front of the saw very slightly and it will cut the drywall over the stud and keep moving. It can't cut all the way to the corner so you'll have to finish cutting about 2-3 inches. I had to cut and remove a lot of drywalls at my house so we could see where termite damage ended, and it saved me sooooo much time if I had to cut all that with a drywall saw. If you're demo, cut a horizontal line and as you feel studs mark with pencil then come back and cut some vertical cut lines between stud marks and you can remove it in nice clean big pieces without all the crumbles and sweeping and dust. It also cuts the drywall edges square, so you won't have to clean the edges if you're installing new drywall after cut-out of the old. The blade barely punctures the back paper and so you have zero risk of cutting a pipe or electric cable.
Worst I've done is in my 1951 house... Actually the neighbour and his tennant were doing demo in his building next door so I just had them come over and gut my house... The walls were this old type of 3/8 plasterboard with another 3/8 layer of hard plaster over top... kind of an interim era between lath and plaster and modern drywall. It came in 2x4ft sheets and was held on with tiny brad nails every 3/4 inch or so!! Of course the nails did'nt pull out with the boards, so I had the most pleasant job of pulling about 3 gazillion nails out of the studs!!
I use the same technique but I'll open the cavity with a bar instead of a hammer. It has more of a slicing action to it and you can run completely down the cavity if you want then lever off to each side with out making a huge mess. Can concur on the home owner cleanup issue, home owners son did the demo which was ok cause I didn't have the time but I also forgot to check his work and got burned by three screws he missed. My bad.
Pretty much what I do... also good to shake the panel before trying to pull it off the wall, it loosens the hold of the nail/screw on the drywall and less cracks at the nailing line. A magnet can find hidden nail/screw heads. I also like to remove the fastener from the chunk of drywall before it goes on the floor. A nail sticking up in a chunk on the floor is begging to get stepped on. And yeah, its the knife option for me but I am a cheap b@st@rd. :) Cheers, hope the weather is holding up in the lower mainland for you.
I took a strong magnet and found all the screws, could take the entire sheet clean off. Second layer was easy as all the screws are visible. Here in Denmark there are always two layers of drywall, and also always insulation in the walls.
Yeah, I've torn out my fair share of drywall. Never used a sledgehammer. It was for flood recovery. Scored a line 4ft up worked it down all around the house took out in as big a section as possible.
i learnt to drywall and mud ceilings on your channel. I made a renovation 5 years ago and the passers by always praised my work, they could not believe i was rookie learning from YT, of course it took me a long time to do it, it was my first time. I thank you dearly man.
I did some minor drywall repair and painting by learning everything on TH-cam. The greatest lesson I learned is; pay someone else to do it.
My pleasure!
I learned a lot from your channel, it did drywall on my home only but still, I was able to do the ceiling on a laundry room, I did decor columns where there once was a staircase brick wall [in Europe most of the walls are brick wall even if they are not structural walls no worries] (maybe a nice video idea decor and drywall).
@@djarcadianhalf-measures is me? 😊
I was doing job for family a little while back, the dad was a younger guy a couple years older than me, really smart, a computer programmer or something like that and he was interested in getting more handy but he was talking about how he didn't really have any of the skills but he was getting started with building some shelves for the garage. I said nah man, the reason you hire us is because you're working a 9-5, then have kids, part of your house is going to be unusable for the duration of the job, you don't have the tools we have or the speed but there's no reason that if you wanted to and had the inclination you could have done this job while taking time and still had a good result. Also that I bet those shelves are going to turn out great, don't be discouraged that you aren't doing things as easily as the guy you see on youtube, take the time to get done well and that will add up and be great and rewarding. I really think anybody can tackle the jobs the trades do if necessary or if interested in learning as a hobby, it's just going to take a lot longer and there will be a learning curve, the entire industry exists because the modern world revolves around the exchange of skilled labour. There is no rule that you need to get a drywaller in to do your drywall or even (at least here) that you need to get an electrician in to do *YOUR* electrics.
The absolute BEST part of this video was seeing you have your kids with you on the job! Nothing better then family bonding through activity 👏 🙌 👍 ❤️
when I had to rip out an entire wall of drywall in my bathroom, I scored all the edges and then used a magnet to find all the screws and unscrew them. Came out in one big piece. Very satisfying!
Did the same for most of my projects. Did take a tad bit longer but screws are going to have to be unscrewed anyway, so taking them out first, instead of trying to rip the drywall out around them, works and is cleaner.
It blew my mind to see Ben removing pieces without first removing all the screws, as it hadn't occurred to me that was even an option. I reckon 95% of my drywall-removing time was being spent on:
- Finding and marking each screw
- Hitting it with driver and unscrewing (if lucky)
- Hitting empty drywall near the screw because I hadn't marked where the magnet stopped accurately enough
- Hitting empty drywall near the screw because the magnet had decided to stop not quite directly above it
- Attempting to remove piece of drywall but realising it was still attached in at least one place
- Trying to hunt down the screw(s) I'd missed
No professional drywall crew I've ever worked with has done the magnet method that's a very interesting tip I've never thought of or learned from anyone.We are usually in a completely sealed environment using plastic to cover finished floors ceilings or walls we are not working on and once the corners are scored to precent getting further damage into the areas you aren't working on you just beat a hole in the board and start removing by hand or prybars if it's a stubborn area with lost of screws or plaster and lathe.
@@jmath-_-317 The magnet method is probably way too slow for pros, but good for the homeowner who wants as little dust and clean up as possible.
@@apmeehan Sounds like you had a weak magnet or one that was too big. I used some strong magnet darts from a magnet dart toy and it locks right onto the screw head, you just remove it right then, you don't need to mark it.
Listening to Ben giving calm instructions of how it's done properly is like listening to Mister Rogers. I appreciate all the minor advice like shaking off the nail from the hammer or how to check for nails left in the stud.
Great video! I’m glad that you realize what is “of course” for a pro is a revelation for DIYs. I like how you show videos that explain how you deal with different details.
For example I just parched a 16 inch by 2 foot hole in a wall of drywall covered by a brown coat then plastered (the old gypsum-plaster system). So I prepped the hole (learned from you), added a board behind the top edge, secured 1/2 drywall, added hot mud to replace the 3/8 thickness deficit (learned from you), scrimmed flat (learned from you) then skimmed a layer of lightweight mud (learned from you). Kept organized with a clean water bucket and a dirty water cleaning bucket (learned from you which by the way was the biggest efficiency gain I’ve learned from you). No big deal for a small repair, but thanks to you I knew exactly what the small job would need in materials, tools and sequence. Thank you.
I’m happy to hear it 🙂🤝
100% concur with all of this. I'm sure I'm not alone in realising that what prevented me from learning all this stuff long ago was not simply because I didn't know how, or that it seemed too complicated or difficult (though I did presume it would be both 😅), but because the paralysing feeling of not knowing where to even start made it so that it never occurred to me that I *could*. So the most valuable part of these videos, for me, is just how approachable and unintimidating he makes everything seem, and how reassuring it is to just get a sense of what the steps look like.
Not to say any of it is *easy* of course! But going from "Done badly" to "Done well" is a far smaller step than going from "Would never try" to "Have tried".
So thank you@@vancouvercarpenter for helping us all to take that first step!
I'm a plumber, definitely gonna take care to try to leave it nice and clean/prepped for the drywall guy as much as I can now that I know what to look for!
Best drywall channel on TH-cam. I’ve learned so much from you over the years. Been watching since you began. I still hear “feather your edges” when I’m scraping off mud. Went from diy zero to hot mud hero. Thanks, Ben!
🙂
Thank you for another good video. I have learned so much from you. I'm pretty proud of the drywall work that I've done, especially for a 75-year-old. It always seems like you enjoy what you do. You need a donate button!
Well done video. I'm a GC and have to tear out an entire finished basement and I had never heard of the drywall saw and will be buying one as that will save us a ton of time. Thanks.
You will love it.
"Always looking for studs" 😂😂
The Makita drywall cut out saw is by far one of my favorite tools. With a dust separator attached, I keep the house virtually dust free - it's ABSOLUTELY worth it!!
I use the multi tool and hold a vacuum to the cut. I also try to remove any screws that pop. makes it easier on smaller jobs. Bigger jobs?? "smash and pull". great family video!
I'm quite sure I would use my multi-tool 10x more often if the noise wasn't so obnoxious. The person who manages to invent a multi-tool that somehow doesn't turn everything it touches into a loudspeaker will be deservedly rich beyond measure.
Makita makes an amazing drywall cut off saw with a dust extraction port that virtually entirely eliminates dust. It's so great that I'm a *very loud activist* for it 😆
Wait omg it's in the video!! This is exactly what I was looking for! I'm so happy!!!! It's worth the $250 just for the dust extraction!
@@Ariccio123 Aaaand that’s me off to watch at least five videos about it 😅
@@apmeehan it's fantastic. Pair it up with a mullet separator and you're gonna wonder how you ever put up with cutting drywall any other way
@@apmeehanjust use earplugs
I love your videos! In my last place I had to mount a tv and also put in a recessed box to thread the cables down the wall and your videos were absolutely integral to learning how to do fix the wall after I butchered the first attempt.
I use a few different methods depending on the situation. I do a lot of water damage repair where I need to snap lines and cut 2' up around whole rooms or areas of a home. So I mostly use a Milwaukee cut-off tool hooked up to a shop vac. Depth can be set to match drywall thickness. Its fast, accurate, and pretty dustless. Works similar to the Makita cut-out tool.
Come'on man... you're the Stud... she knows it. Good to see beautiful family.
In addition to making an unholy mess, the sledgehammer swinger s risk some nasty surprises: there are plumbing and electrical lines running through those walls.
Yup.
Maybe in canada but plumbing and electrical in America aren't just anywhere
To be fair, it's easiest to hammer a hand hole to get started then yank away. A sledge is not needed. Don't call me if it's lath/plaster.
I prefer the drunken headbutt method.
I just ripped out a wall in my basement then saw him post this so I'm thinking I was gonna be shown a cleaner, faster way to do it...I did what you said and while it was messier, it was much, much faster...easier and quicker just to block off where your working and cover things up than to do it the way he showed.
I after marking, I just hook up my Makita drywall saw to my festool ct midi and cut away. Good info for homeowners though. Good job Ben!
Great video. I used to help a friend of mine who had a remodeling business when I was younger and that was exactly what we did. It’s just so so much cleaner and he was meticulous, son picked that up quick. Love your kids in the background 👌.
We use the oscillator tool for all drywall activities at my work. Great job on making sure to clean everything up to prep for installing properly
I have the makita tool and it made itself worth it on a medical job that had 5/8 drywall that needed a bunch of patches. Since then I've been doing residential and bringing out the vacuum and the tool and setting it to the proper depth makes me turn to hand methods mostly. I am happy i have it.
Great job Ben! 💕👏👍 New family house? Or family just tagged along to project. I love the run the hammer against studs trick, Ive always done that too.
PS- what about those rotozip tools for cutting drywall? Or are those just good for cutting boxes
I am on my 2nd Makita drywall cutter.
I use it every single week & it pays for itself every time.
The negative is, they fitted a brushed motor into a tool that works in the world's dustiest environment. The motors do fail due to repetitive dust ingress.
It's a very expensive tool to have that oversight.
Your so pleasant to watch. Thank you for your teaching. I watched you a lot prior to rocking my new wood shop. It's not perfect, but it's good. Most guys don't rock a wood working shop anyway, but I did, and it looks great.
Thanks again.
Lowell
You are very welcome 🙂
I always look so easy when you do it. I am still learning from you. In fact everything I know about drywall, I know from you. Thank you!
Thanks for this video! I learned drywall on the job and lots of it was figuring out for myself what works best. I am super proud to say that you did this EXACTLY how I do it. Right down to the little hammer trick to remove the nail from the claw. I am proud to say the way I taught myself is exactly what a seasoned pro does. Thanks man!
As an aside: sometimes I brad nail a straight piece of plywood where I want the cut, then use that as a guide for the oscillating tool. Gets perfect cuts every time, in half the time
This videos great! I do asbestos inspections a lot so I demo of lots of drywall(maybe not the cleanest) but I find the easiest for demo of all drywall if that’s what you need is use the broad side of the sledge with enough force to break the board, pull it off, then repeat on each side of support board.
His method is good for more controlled demo though and I’d use in my house. A crow bar I find is easier than the glazier bar as it has a larger holding surface. You can insert then pull straight out from the board to pop the nails/screws off first and it comes off fully
Also yellow mud is what gives me a good indication of asbestos mud from all my inspections. Not sure the reason though
I use the Olfa knife as a paint can opener and slotted screw driver all the time too, when I don't want to make a trip to the tool box. It also works great for removing T50 staples.
Love the Franklin Sensor and also I approve of the methodical method to remove drywall (plasterboard here in the UK).
One thing I learned with an oscillating tool, and it really depends on how often you use it and with which type of blade, is pushing it through the workpiece, or pulling it. It is user comfort, what feels best to you. Some have better control pushing the tool and some pulling the tool through the workpiece...
I've used that Makita Drywall tool with a vacuum attached and it is AMAZING, virtually no dust at all, it's the only thing I'm willing to use without full dust protection in a customers home.
Great video. I've done it that way a few times. But I prefer just running right along the edge of the studs with a sawzall and then scabbing twoby's for nailers or even better cutting down the middle of the twoby like you're doing only with a multi tool.
For Straight cuts, score the line with a utility blade, then follow up with the oscillating multi-tool/fine saw.
That works well👍
I knew there were reasons I like your videos! A man after my own heart. I'm JUST a homeowner but retired Navy electrician and I do a lot of my own electrical work and really as much of everything as I can do myself. I CRINGE whenever I see someone snap off a nail or screw head and then just drive it in flush or worse, bend it over and hammer it flat into the wood.
I LOVE my Franklin sensor! I had only those crappy Zircon sensors for years and I often found myself wanting to dash the thing against an opposite wall!
Does a Franklin sensor do better with textures? I find if there’s a texture on a wall or ceiling my zircon stud finder is lost
@@travisharms9772 I haven't tried mine on texture, but... I have two bathrooms that originally had 1970s velvetized wallpaper.
Some previous owner covered that with this ugly ass texture and then painted the entire interior of the house--including trim, outlets, light switches and all cover plates with the ugliest, nastiest blue green color. I was a career submariner and it reminded me of the color that submarines are painted inside!
So in those bathrooms I first scraped off the high points of the texture and then skim coated entire walls. After light sanding, primer and paint, it looks as smooth as virgin sheetrock.
My Franklin can see studs through that. My guess is it's all about 1/4" thick on top of the original sheetrock.
I've used a circular saw with a fiber cement blade with great success. Quite dusty, but fast and leaves a clean edge. It won't cut too deep if you set it properly.
the better the prep work is, the better the job is going to be when you're done👍👍👍👍👍
i think i owe u this , THANK YOU SO MUCH , you save me thousands and gave the SKILLS to do so much
I usually use an oscillating tool and a shop vac for zero dust. Just make sure you’re using a carbide grit/grout blade. It cuts faster and straighter through sheetROCK since drywall isn’t made of wood it’s made of gypsum. Regular oscillating tool wood blades dull really quick on drywall.
I can tell you are very experienced. That smashing drywall into a million little pieces is for the birds. Clean up is a huge nightmare. For people just learning how to do this, don’t pay any attention to the jokers on HGTV. I like your channel content 10 out of 10.
Thank you!!!!
5:44 I love using my cheap cordless jigsaw for stuff like that. Truth is you can just--if you only use it for this purpose--epoxy or glue or even tape a spacer to the bottom of the tool so it will only go in as deep as the drywall panel. That's an option for a crafty person
Rotary zip tool is quick and easy and costs less than $100. It is good for going around electrical boxes for the new drywall. It will follow the studs. It does leave it on the stud. Need carbide bit if there is veneer plaster.
Very informative and very enjoyable watching you interact with your family.
First use a Magnet to find drywall screws, then remove screws. Drywall sheet then can be taken off in one piece it was installed. Much faster & easier.
I find that situations in which big pieces of drywall are being removed tend to be older walls and most of the time they're nails
That's exactly what I do, Works great
I like to use a rare earth magnet to find the screws for small patch/demo jobs. Once the screws are removed you can pull off full sheets of rock at a time. Also if you use an angle grinder to cut some scrap metal near the wall the dust from the cut-off wheel will settle and magnetize to all of the screw heads to show you where they are located. It is a useful trick if you are removing tons of drywall.
Ha, that sounds ingenius.
Once I find the screws I take them out. You can take some pretty big pieces once the fasteners are gone.
I bought themaximum heavy duty compact saw .... That thing is one of my Best purchases. I'd always buy tools when they had the sales on the maximum line at crappy tire. Regardless of what it was I had the mindset that I would use it one day and that thing has worked itself off tenfold
Good video. Just a quick comment. By removing all the socket and electrical outlet covers first you could immediately find the "low hanging fruit" of the studs. This does not expose all of the studs but since you have to remove all of the covers it removes the need for the stud finder on those studs. I used that method for finding the studs in my daughter's apartment to mount her TV. (Of course she doesn't have a studfinder. PlayStation yes, studfinder, no). Great video though...
The jiggle is key to removing large sheets.
I generally will cut close to the stud then come back and clean up the stud ( cut drywall at half way mark) studs are not always straight.
So cute she looks identical to you ! ❤
I always try to cut down the center of the stud bay, this way I can rock the dry wall on the stud to easily break it from the screws.
When I was a kid we had an old abandoned garage apartment that we stored tools in. The studs were like 2 feet apart, and the drywall as thin as paper. Great for jumping through. So we did.
There is a tool used for manual cutting of Hardibacker. It's a handle with two carbide teeth on a T-shaped end. After a razor score, it cuts deep into drywall very quickly (and plaster too). Two to three strokes gets you through with about a 1/8" channel and most all the dust fall straight to the ground.
was gonna mention the makita tool. i bought one eventhough i dont do alot of repairs but i was drywalling a small house and it came in extremely handy. If you need to shave some down its perfect. i find it alot easier to use than the buzz saw. keep up the work, you shown me a ton of tips that have helped me...
I use a regular cordless Makita jig saw. At full extension, just make a mark on a coarse blade exactly 5/8" below the base of the saw. Put the blade in a vise right to that mark, then snap the rest of the blade off with good pliers. The jigsaw with short blade is much faster than using a multi-tool and there's no chance of hitting wiring or plumbing.,
Shortly after I became a homeowner we decided we wanted a door where a wall was. When it came time to make the hole, my buddy went head first into it to begin the removal process. He was about an inch away from a cross-brace the stud-finder didn't pick up and a sure concussion 🤣🤣
Wish I had the knowledge of your channel that many years ago. I've done plenty of my own drywall, and I would have skipped a lot of mistakes at the beginning (which I may some day remedy).
I do mostly office renovation move a wall put a new wall up . I use the oscillating saw with a vacuum to limit the dust. I find the board pops off of steel studs easier than wood
True on plumb and level cuts to keep the dust down I use a magnet to find the fasteners then a cats paws to pull them they have to come out anyways , you can make intermediaries cuts to make a removal panel smaller . The hammer demo will cause nail heads or screw to pop on the other side and area next to the demo if you hit a stud to hard you could move it out of plumb.
Oscillating tool and hold a vacuum right next to it or even tape the vacuum wand to it if you have a long piece to do, there’s no dust to worry about.
The oscillating tool with the half moon blade is the way to go. It is directionally stable and it is easy to control the depth.
You make it look so cool. Now I know how the “cool kids” do it!
My favorite tool is the drywall cutout tool, which is basically a high powered dremel. Almost as good as the makita but much cheaper and it's available on just about every battery platform.
Hello vancouver carpenter.
I am looking for a video that shows how to replace a full sheet or section of drywall. That includes showing how to remove/replace tape from inside corners and cellings.
Do you have any showing this?
That small red Richardson pry bar is a gem, there really is nothing quite as perfect I've found here in the US. Luckily I have one!
Perfect timing on this video. Thank you sir.
Makita has a really cool drywall saw - it's a stubby length cordless reciprocating saw with a vacuum attachment.
Works great!
You're great at talking us through the process. You should get your own HGTV show.
10:07 might be the best moment in the video. ;-) Though seeing those nice big panels come off _is_ satisfying!
This guy is my new best friend.
the family cheering your work was the BEST! :)
This is the same way. I've always removed the drywall glad to see. I'm not the only one!
One trick I found was to put two screws into a nice medium length straight board and use that as a cut guide for the oscillating multi tool.
Thank you for your video. What drill brand did you use at 13:30 for the screw?
Thanks dude.
I appreciate the advise and tips you provide to us newbs. :))
Oscillating tool with a drywall blade all the way. I usually hold a vac while cutting through the drywall. Like a chaser and end up with almost no mess
I just crumple a 000 fine piece of steel wool right next to the drywall and the little pieces stick to the screws. It’s so easy to find all the studs without marking the walls. Push the screw bit into the steel wool dust and unscrew the screw. It’s also an awesome trick for hanging cabinets so you don’t miss the studs. When you are done installing just blow on the spots and they disappear. This trick doesn’t work well on plaster but drywall, it’s the fastest and easiest way to find all the studs. Try it once and you will appreciate how much time you save.
Good instructions. Many I have used in my 125 yo house.
BTW houses this old, the studs may not be 16” on center.
Mr. Carpenter what toolbelt do you use? My bf said he liked it and I would like to surprise him with it but I don’t know anything about these things pls help 🙏🙏❤️
You have to test every house from 2018 & older as per worksafe, I have been testing for over 15 Years
I only start to investigate my kids when the screaming stops. Because there’s always some level of noise. When it’s quiet, well that’s when you know something is up. 😂
What do you suggest with plaster over wallboard?
I’ll use a magnet to find screws and drill them out, then take the sheet when it’s mostly/entirely detached. Nails are a different story.
Be careful not to get the cheaper Franklin Sensors Stud Finders. I bought one at Harbor Freight that was horrid. Totally worth getting the bigger one.
The glaziers tool is a common tool that beekeepers use!
My Makita drywall cutter has been a godsend for these jobs. Ben you ever float over cement board.
Taking drywall down and reusing for other projects is the way to go, if the drywall isn't moldy or bad.
In the late ‘60’s my parents had a house built. At six years old I couldn’t figure out how footprints got on the walls. About 20 years later while installing drywall, I had and epiphany. Oddest feeling.
I felt like shouting it from the rooftops..
😂
I like to use a rare earth magnet on a string to find all the screws/nails so I can pull them with a cat's paw or by jamming a drill through the mud.. then you get a huge piece, fully intact, and barely any mess.
Door trim is already gone. I would start from there. Take my flat bar and start popping the sheet off of the nails or screws, then, pull it off the rest of the way. Cut the tape at the joint, then move to the next piece.
Deconstruction, not demolition.
Hey there!!! I’m a carpenter student. My question is, should I screw the drywall only on the studs and avoid the noggin ? Or it doesn’t matter?
Can you do one of these how to remove, but for plaster and lathe?
The FEMA demo crews that were sent in after hurricane flooded condos near where I live were having to remove the bottom 2 ft of drywall b/c of water. All of them were using a jigsaw. I was kind of confused as to why b/c it seems that would be a terrible option, and you would be hitting electric cable. One of the workers showed me how it was done and what they did is they take a jigsaw blade and pull the jigsaw blade out as far as it will extend. If the drywall you are cutting/removing is 1/2" you measure from the plate of the jigsaw out a 1/2 and mark your blade and then cut the blade (grinder with thin cutting disc worked great but there's a million ways to cut a jigsaw blade) at 1/2." The reason they were doing this is b/c you don't have to worry about accidentally cutting electric cable behind the drywall and it cuts extremely fast and (what i really love) the jigsaw blade pushes the cut dust in behind the drywall. It literally makes like almost no dust. You don't have to worry about studs either. When you cut a horizontal line and suddenly you feel the stud just pick up on the front of the saw very slightly and it will cut the drywall over the stud and keep moving. It can't cut all the way to the corner so you'll have to finish cutting about 2-3 inches. I had to cut and remove a lot of drywalls at my house so we could see where termite damage ended, and it saved me sooooo much time if I had to cut all that with a drywall saw. If you're demo, cut a horizontal line and as you feel studs mark with pencil then come back and cut some vertical cut lines between stud marks and you can remove it in nice clean big pieces without all the crumbles and sweeping and dust. It also cuts the drywall edges square, so you won't have to clean the edges if you're installing new drywall after cut-out of the old. The blade barely punctures the back paper and so you have zero risk of cutting a pipe or electric cable.
Sitting on my couch watching this video about intelligent drywall removal when I'm supposed to be in the basement removing drywall.
Worst I've done is in my 1951 house... Actually the neighbour and his tennant were doing demo in his building next door so I just had them come over and gut my house... The walls were this old type of 3/8 plasterboard with another 3/8 layer of hard plaster over top... kind of an interim era between lath and plaster and modern drywall. It came in 2x4ft sheets and was held on with tiny brad nails every 3/4 inch or so!! Of course the nails did'nt pull out with the boards, so I had the most pleasant job of pulling about 3 gazillion nails out of the studs!!
You know, when it’s that bad sometimes just banging them in or flat is the way to go.
That Makita drywall saw is kick ass…
That WAS very clean! Nice.
I use the same technique but I'll open the cavity with a bar instead of a hammer. It has more of a slicing action to it and you can run completely down the cavity if you want then lever off to each side with out making a huge mess. Can concur on the home owner cleanup issue, home owners son did the demo which was ok cause I didn't have the time but I also forgot to check his work and got burned by three screws he missed. My bad.
Pretty much what I do... also good to shake the panel before trying to pull it off the wall, it loosens the hold of the nail/screw on the drywall and less cracks at the nailing line. A magnet can find hidden nail/screw heads.
I also like to remove the fastener from the chunk of drywall before it goes on the floor. A nail sticking up in a chunk on the floor is begging to get stepped on.
And yeah, its the knife option for me but I am a cheap b@st@rd. :)
Cheers, hope the weather is holding up in the lower mainland for you.
I took a strong magnet and found all the screws, could take the entire sheet clean off. Second layer was easy as all the screws are visible.
Here in Denmark there are always two layers of drywall, and also always insulation in the walls.
Good idea 👍
I forgot about that Makita drywall cutter. Dang. I've just been happy with an oscillating tool.
Yeah, I've torn out my fair share of drywall. Never used a sledgehammer. It was for flood recovery. Scored a line 4ft up worked it down all around the house took out in as big a section as possible.
I mark with level. Then use my multi tool / fine tool to make my cuts with shop vac. Then pull off in pieces to dispose of