Soon I'm going to be diving to replace a prop on my boat and this video was very helpful for knowing what tools I need and what to expect. Much appreciated!
@aalborg- Regardless of the shaft rotation, when the boat is moving forward, the prop will move up the taper. In reverse the opposite is true, but most boats spend more time in gear moving forward than backwards, and the friction fit on the taper should provide all of the force necessary to keep the prop in place.
@@wh0deany Lapping is using a grinding paste and (with the key not installed) press the prop gently against the shaft and turn it back and forth to make the two tapers fit perfectly against each other. Then you remove it and wash off the paste before final installation. But I don't know if it's really needed.
never ever reuse cotter pins. it is a recipe for disaster. they are reality inexpensive. could save you from losing a prop and or seriously damaging your boat.
Quick question.....when you are installing the new prop, when you turned it the shaft "squeaked/squeeled" when you rotated it....is that common? I thought that was only common with a bad cutlass bearing. Any thoughts????
@@Veteran_Aviator And two years later i say it's not a seal but the rubber cutless bearing that sounds like that when it's dry. I use to spray some soapy water on the bearings when turning the props on land.
Indeed, this is a great video. I had to replace my damaged prop, which only took a few minutes. Looking forward to some great rides this season!
Thanks for the video. Had the prop off in 10 minutes and this was my first time. Now to get the prop repaired.
Alan - The larger side of the prop goes on first; the taper of the prop's hub will match the taper of the shaft.
Soon I'm going to be diving to replace a prop on my boat and this video was very helpful for knowing what tools I need and what to expect. Much appreciated!
Wow, never thought I'd need a video like this. Thanks for real for making this easy.
@aalborg- Regardless of the shaft rotation, when the boat is moving forward, the prop will move up the taper. In reverse the opposite is true, but most boats spend more time in gear moving forward than backwards, and the friction fit on the taper should provide all of the force necessary to keep the prop in place.
Would applying a little oil to the shaft help you remove the prop the next time you needed to? Is the prop removal tool necessary?
very nice demonstration, thank you!
Why don't you use Dukhams Keenol on the shaft to ease removal?
You should "lap" the prop onto the shaft when replacing.
What does lapping the prop onto the shaft mean?
@@wh0deany Lapping is using a grinding paste and (with the key not installed) press the prop gently against the shaft and turn it back and forth to make the two tapers fit perfectly against each other. Then you remove it and wash off the paste before final installation. But I don't know if it's really needed.
It would have been nice in the info if you have a link to where you bought that kit... I'm looking to buy
wakemakers.com
can you tell me about how can i get that propeller.?
Grab that crescent like you have a pair!
Wow very good
Does the small side of the propeller go in first or the big side?
would this be the same process on a Vdrive boat? Is there any difference?
It's identical. The Moomba XLV has a Vdrive and this process is exactly the same with it.
Adam Adams
For removal I'd not recommend using wood or anything against a prop to loosen or tighten nuts. You can bend a blade. Use a chain around the shaft.
How do you go about using a chain on the shaft?
Why can’t you use on a two blade prop?
You can. They are just so unusual so he didn't mention it.
Dude, invest in a socket wrench.
never ever reuse cotter pins. it is a recipe for disaster. they are reality inexpensive. could save you from losing a prop and or seriously damaging your boat.
OMG he used the old cotter pin :(
Quick question.....when you are installing the new prop, when you turned it the shaft "squeaked/squeeled" when you rotated it....is that common? I thought that was only common with a bad cutlass bearing. Any thoughts????
Three years later I have the same question. My thought is that it sounds like a dry rubber seal. Probably lubricated with lake water.
@@Veteran_Aviator And two years later i say it's not a seal but the rubber cutless bearing that sounds like that when it's dry. I use to spray some soapy water on the bearings when turning the props on land.