I hear this often about Gibson Les Paul’s. I’ve been playing for over 40 years and had a few Les Pauls through the years. I’ve never had any major issues with them staying in tune.
Based on e-mails I've received, I want to clear up an area of possible confusion. The points covered in this video are intended to address and help those players who have invested in a Gibson Les Paul but now have a difficult time keeping it in tune. It then goes on to say what can be done about those problems. Some are under the mistaken impression that I'm suggesting they buy the guitar, then make upgrades to the hardware. I myself might do that but at least I'm going into it with the full knowledge of what to expect with a Gibson Les Paul. Some have asked the question, why buy one in the first place if it is known to have issues? The answer for me is that in spite of the need (IMHO) to upgrade the bridge, pickups and tuners, it is an otherwise outstanding guitar. The neck either feels right in your hand or it doesn't. The body either feels right when you hold it or it doesn't. Those factors plus the bound neck and the fact that I want to support a USA company do it for me. I realize what these guitars cost vs imports and USA Fenders but I'm willing to pay it to have what I consider to be the quality in the areas I mentioned. By the way, I have owned many USA Fenders including a customized Tele I now have. If you would like to make civil, rational comments, feel free. Those who post vitriolic, argumentative comments, especially those using foul language will be deleted. Peace. BH
Once I went to locking tuners on my Les Paul and my SG and it helped a ton! I'm a blues rock player and a big bender and now they stay in tune as well as my Strat and Tele. Great video!
Bobby, agreed, totally. My Epiphone Les Paul stays in tune but just doesn't have that playability & feel like my Gibson Les Paul. My LP has issues with strings 1-3. I always graphite the nut but this time just doesn't seem to alleviate the problem. I've ordered some Big Bends Nut Sauce. If problem persists, I'll replace the nut or have it refiled. The Grover tuners seem ok...
John564 Holloway - Some ppl seem to have good luck with those String Butlers. Looks like something i'd like to try in the future, but on my acoustic that has a headstock similar to the Les Paul.
Not meaning to argue, I just disagree. I should be allowed to post the reasons I have. We do not have to agree to be able to make valid points that could be informative or educational to your viewers. A good discussion has various viewpoints that conflict at times and should stay posted instead of deleting comments you do not agree with.
Richard Díaz I agree, especially after all this time. I don’t have this problem too often though. Obviously 2 guitars will be different, but I feel like sometimes people over exaggerate. Or just need to stretch their strings lol. A good set of locking tuners is a nice upgrade though.
Over my 55+ years of playing, performing, and teaching, I've found that 99.9% of tuning "instabilities" and problems can be alleviated by properly wrapping the strings at the pegs, and by properly tuning. First, if you don't have locking tuners, run your new string thru the tuner hole, then bring it 1/2 way around the peg and put it under the string where it enters the peg hole, in the same direction as the string is to be wound. Next, pull it up so that it becomes locked under the string when it is tuned up. Leave no more than about two winds when the string is tuned to pitch (I usually leave around one wind). Extra winds leave extra room for string settling and slippage. NEXT: When you tune, first tune all strings to approximate pitch, and give each string a good pull, then re-tune to approximate pitch again. Now, tune each string individually, first tuning to pitch, then pulling on it and re-tuning it until it stays in tune after pulling on it. Do this EVERY SINGLE TIME you tune, NOT just when you put new strings on your guitar!! There ARE some things that will cause tuning headaches, such as temperature fluxuations and sun/shadow while playing an outdoor show, and humidity variations, but this will keep you in tune as well as possible. I've found that tuning problems are VERY SELDOM actually hardware problems, although once in a while, (as seen with the loose tuners in Bobby's video) there can be a mechanical problem, but problems like that are due to poor maintenance rather than actual hardware malfunctions. BTW, I have locking tuners on most of my guitars and love them, and I play 6-8 shows a month average, so MUST have them in tune!!
Kevin, I agree with much of what you said although I differ with you on a couple of points but here is the thing: I appreciate you being civil and explaining your position from what you see as your logical point of view. That's the way it should be. Some people are just downright nasty and furthermore, I can show them the faults in their logic but I don't keep their vitriol on my pages, I just delete them. If a person has an experience or opinion different from mine, that's OK, as long as they keep it civil. Blessings upon you and yours. BH
Kevin thank you for leaving this method and technique as a comment I've come across House video before in the past but just didn't have the patience to watch it. I'm a Les Paul affection Auto have had tuning problems particularly with one Les Paul that I have and thought about in the past even when I was a kid about the idea of wrapping the strings properly because if you don't do it the correct way you leave slippage. You're a guitar teacher you obviously have mountains of experience compared to me and to hear this from a professional is wait to see. I do have another question and I'd like to ask your opinion but it doesn't necessarily pertain to Les Paul's and I don't want to bunk up is video with unrelated stuff would you mind e-mailing me back when you get the opportunity please my email is ssabp8@gmail.com. this too is a tuning issue but it's related to another guitar that I just picked up and I would like to have your opinion please I would greatly appreciate it when you get the opportunity
I’ve found the modern tuning posts very taxing to get right - I did research and found this way I like - thread the end then - keeping as much tension on the string as you can manage - do one normal turn around ABOVE the threaded string - the second turn should go UNDER so you sandwich the threaded string - and all remaining turns follow under that one. I don’t think it matters if the string isn’t sandwiched touching both winds around the post as sometime happens - because after three turns around the post - it’s super tight on the post anyway - like the horses were tied up in westerns hehe. This style you have the string making full contact with the post on each wind - no special loops or locks - and you can wind all of your selected string length all the way down the post which gives a nice steep break angle. Keeping tension while winding is key to this. The only problem I still haven’t solved with this is the threaded short end of the string- can be sharp and is exposed - which is why vintage klusons style is a much better design imo.
I appreciate your videos, thanks. i bought a cheap gold les paul and getting ready to replace all mechanisms. I''ll look for yiur videos and learn from them. I'm new at this. I love guitars. @@BobbyHoweGuitar
It's expensive but it will.....put it on the bridge saddles too. I use graphite and hoppes #9 oil......get a fine metal file and a pencil.... make grapite powder....add a couple drops of Hoppes #9 with it. (can get it in the gun section of walmart or a gun store). It will be like a thin mud. Works as good but will make a white nut a little black from the lead.
Thank you for your information. I've had a different experience. I have a 1969 SG Standard with engraved Vibrola tailpiece, of which I am the original owner. To this day, it is my mainstay instrument of the guitars I own. Early on, I became aware of tuning issues with it, particularly mostly with the G string (it's an otherwise superb instrument). I tolerated its tuning issues for decades, but, as I grew more experienced and wise, I decided to do something about it. I consulted various TH-cam videos on the topic, and spoken with several luthiers, to analyze the issue with this guitar. Gibson has created very few guitar models that have tuners only on one side of the headstock. Most are 3L & 3R. Because of this, there is a lateral break angle behind the nut to the left, for the A & D strings, and a lateral break angle behind the nut to the right, for the G & B strings (both E strings are straight pull behind the nut). Complicating this is the drop angle of the headstock relative to the plane of the neck. I have solved the tuning issues virtually completely by doing 2 things: replacing the tuning machines with Sperzel locking tuners (which are similar to the Grovers you eschew), and installing a String Butler on the headstock, mounted just above the truss rod cover, which changes those 4 strings' break angle to straight pull, up to their roller bearing pivot points (then, on to their respective tuning posts: no sharp angles). Those two mods have eliminated tuning issues and have made tuning extraordinarily stable. I do not need to wind several coils of string onto the tuning posts; 3/4s of 1 wind (or less) around the posts are sufficient, which also eliminates the potential of the strings going out of tune due to several winds gradually settling in under string tension against the tuning posts, resulting in the tuning going flat. It is also of paramount importance that after changing strings and bringing them up to pitch, that the strings be manually stretched and returned to pitch several times, until it becomes apparent that the tuning remains stable. This is not to say that the guitar never goes out of tune; just that the degree of tuning variance is slight (by cents of pitch) when/if it does.
We have here the Bob Ross of solving tuning problems on Les Paul models. Bobby took Gibson’s happy accident and made a happy cloud, all while relaxing you with the friendly tone of his soft voice. Thanks Bobby “Ross”!
Man, I love TH-cam. So much great information on here. Thank you for making a video about this! I thought I was the only one with this tuning problem ( new player here). Keep it going , brother!
Great video, Bobby! Your Les Paul sounds amazingly full and balanced tonally. It's easy to hear that the changes you've made are the reason. Thank you!
This video and another I just watched helped my tuning issues greatly. The most useful for me from this video, was realizing how loose the tuner screws and nuts were on my almost new Les Paul. Even with the standard (non locking) Grover tuners, just reasonably tightening the screws on the back of the headstock (some were simply not in all the way), and tightening the nuts on the front of the headstock reasonably snug. I used some nut and saddle lube also. I bend lot and I went from having tuning issues to really no issue at all with about 30 minutes work. Thanks for your part in this solution. The answer was really just a little maintenance.
Hi Bob, thanks for your note. The situation of yours becoming totally resolved was the exact thing I was trying to convey. You worked it out very much in accordance with what I learned from my experience. I am so glad that you fixed your tuning issues and that I could play a small part in it. All the best, BH
With my Les Paul, I replaced my tuners with Grover Roto-Grips (I think the ones you originally replaced) and they eliminated my tuning issues. I tend to play heavier riffs so you can imagine the nightmare i was having. I like seeing how other players correct their problems. Thanks for sharing.
I replaced the factory nut on one of my Gibson Les Paul Studio guitars with a custom fitted brass nut and I noticed a big difference with the guitar staying in tune. I also replaced the factory Gibson deluxe tuning machineheads of that same guitar and replaced them with Grover tuning machineheads... Those two modification did wonders for that guitar. I may have a go with a different bridge in the future... But right now that guitar sounds great and it finally stays in tune! Right now I own five Gibson Les Paul guitars. One 1960 classic, three Studio guitars and one Custom. My Classic plays the best and I've had zero issues with it since I swapped the factory machineheads with the Grover machineheads. My Custom is the "problem child"... It won't stay in tune and I have had it set up with a professional guitar tech and that helped a lot... I just don't want to modify my Custom at the moment. I enjoyed watching this! Thanks for sharing! Tom Lloyd
Thanks Tom for your nice words and for watching my videos! Sounds like you've come up with some solutions that are working for you! Keep up the good work! All the best, BH
I have a Les Paul Custom shop that's completely stock. It stays in tune like you wouldn't believe. A luthier buddy of mine says the 6/6 nylon nut they use is a big part of that. The material is super slick and dense. Notoriously hard to cut and shape but will practically last forever.
It’s usually the g and the d strings that go out of tune reason being the angle that those strings lead out to the tunners. My sullution is to lube the nut and replace the tunners with some locking tunners.
Thankyou for taking the time sir very informative I've been playing a long time and had many guitars over the years including Les Pauls in the end Ive built my own from scratch it suits me better than anything I've ever had and paid fortunes for. But y'know what I built it as a Les Paul and used your tips to make sure I have the best guitar for me and one that stays in tune! God bless you Bobby
I have a 1978 Les Paul Standard that I’ve always used 8 gage string on it. Recently I’ve gone to 9s and goes out of tune quickly. So I widened the slots on the nut and applied some lubricant to the nut slots, problem solved. The main issue with tuning stability is the angle of the d and g strings to the tuning pegs, it’s a inherent problem with all guitars with 3x3 head stocks. Thanks for the video I will be getting a roller bridge.
Thanks Bobby. You explained it with simple mechanical logic and added examples to your explanations. Schallers are seen commonly on many acoustics. I always wondered why they weren't more common on electrics. A lot of guys I see complaining about tuning on LPs seem to coincidentally use Grovers yet they all brag on their Grovers..
You are correct sir...all the vibration loosens EVERYTHING on the guitar...after snugging everything up, i had to have a bone nut put on cuz i had severe binding at the nut...once the nut got right and everything was snug, i can bend forever...it stays in tune fantastic....great vid brother!!!
Me too: I also wrap as many windings on the tuning posts as possible. It has few advantages, and no disadvantage: the strings are leaving the post on the very round part near the mounting nut- so less breakage there. Also the sound will be tighter, because of different vibration of the post. I can not relate to the „rule“ of two wounds per tuner- post, because of slippage. It makes no sense to me. Why not half wound? Because it slips?Well, it seams that 1.5 wounds more are not slipping anymore. So, if I wind 10 times, the first 8.5 windings won‘t move eighter...☺️ I doubt very much that there could happen a stretch of the strings..., if the friction is high enough to counteract slippage, there can not happen any stretching. I also found that tightening (not overdoing) the little screws on the end of the tuning knobs help stabilizing the worm gear inside the tuner, due friction.
I wrap atleast three windings on the posts, I stretch them, and leave the tuning one note high until ready to play, then I retune, with backing off 1/2 note, and bringing back into tune, so I don't normally have problems!
I bought the Schaller Tuneomatic Roller Bridge, without changing the original Groover locking tunners, it works really really good. The playability is much better, the sound is clearer to my ears and it stays in tune. Great. Thanks Bobby.
Nice video. Interesting. I solved my tuning issues with a string butler and a graphtech nut. You’re playing is really beautiful. But interesting now that you’ve changed the pickups I would never listen and pick that out as a Les Paul. It’s unique now.
String butlers fixes it for $50.00. It changes the severe bend of the strings at the head and straightens the string pitch and then reduces the amount of tuning your constantly doing. You can get black clear or gold tone. Works everytime.
@@S3nna_12 well actually in the case of the les Paul, it is primarily the headstock design that desperately needs an update. The angle and the string spread is the real issue. Ideally strings should go straight through the nut
Kjarthan Mørkeberg Reece Thank you. Finally someone not talking this “a 2k guitar should stay in tune” pointless drivel. Gibson designed a headstock that looks great before the science of what you are talking about was understood. If they changed the headstock some people might be happy that it stays in tune better, but the company weighs that versus the concern that people will revolt against it and freak out like with New Coke.
I like your playing. Very clean and nice. I mostly play 80s heavy metal stuff myself so I couldn't play chord melody to save my life, but it's vey nice to listen to. Informative video too! I might look into your tips to make my Goldtop Tribute behave a little better :)
The biggest issue is the nut. Usually always is. Not the tuners. Occasionally the saddles might need filing as well. The nut needs to be file for the string gauge and angle that the string departs towards the headstock. That’s it.
Thanks a lot! You are my hero! I tried to solve the tuning issue of my Gibson. It took me weeks and all the other Videos and forums couldn't help me. They all talked about the bullshit of "its the bridge" and "its the saddle" and IT WAS NOT! I also have an expensive Gibson and couldnt imagine that these parts were of a bad quality. All 6 tuners were loose. The more the string got out of tune, the more loose was the tuner. Its a simple correlation. BTW: the tuners of my Strat were a little bit loose, too. Like some others already said: it takes half an hour time and afterwards you will be happy!
Hello RPJH91, Thanks for you nice note! You are smarter than most because you simply took the advice put forth in the video and applied it with what we both know was the expected results. Most players that write me are reasonable, wonderful people but I have had a few that have said some nasty things about me and what I say. Once again, you are smarter than most. Thanks for being a reasonable person! All the best, happy playing! BH
proper setup and intonaton with lube on the nut and saddles is all you need. Ive fixed many that people say t wont stay in tune. good setup and lube the areas I said with a combo of graphite and vasoline.
I use Hipshot locking tuners with the UMB plates and Graphtech nuts, Ernie Ball strings - tuning problems resolved. Sometimes on the Gibson's, the bridge don't fit tight and it can wobble the strings out of tune. That little bit of play renders the fine adjustment of the saddles nearly useless. Not all Gibson's do this thing but some just do, That's why many people like the ABR style posts that screw into the body without the studs, no wiggle room and tight fitting bridge. A locking bridge is a fix for a wobbly bridge mount.
I do this 1 string at a time usually from the bottom E 1st, after removing that string. Using a sharp graphite pencil, graphite tail piece holes, Bridge slots, nut slots, and holes of tuning pegs. 2. Thread string through calculating 3 winds on tuning peg. Bend string on tuning peg so it holds, then hold string taught as it winds down. 4. tune string, then lightly pull string to set the string, and recheck it's tuning. Repeat step 4 until the string holds it's tune after a pull test. 5. Repeat this process for the rest of your strings until all are done. 6. Re check the tune and retune if needed. If you use cliche's and other bends or whammy bar, the guitar should hold a good tune even when stretched. This method sets the strings coil around the tuning pegs. While "dry" lubricating the areas the string passes through. Your local guitar shop may carry liquid graphite. I do this to all my guitars. The 3 winds on the tuning peg isn't a must have 1 less or 1 more won't hurt anything. They also make a string stretcher tool but, "I've never used it from fear of breaking a string" Hope this makes better sense.
Good helpfull Video! On a Sidenote: These Elixirs are Top Notch. I use exact these too. Nano 9-42. I play them mostly for 3 Months until i change and even then they´re in very good Shape and excellent Tone. Totally recommend these. At the end of the Day they are the cheapest Strings for me, in Relation to how long they feel and sound fresh!
How I fixed my Les Paul Studio 2002: Sperzel Locking Tuners; Wrapping my strings Bonamossa style with extra ball ends 1 on ea string; lubricating the nut well with each string change; new Tone Pros bridge and saddle- very rigid. All electronics were changed but has nothing to do with tuning. Remember the 17 degree of break at the Gibson headstock causes the majority of tuning problems especially with the G string. I never break a string. I use 009 or 010's. My les Paul now stays in tune 99 percent of the time! 1st one I've ever had that stays in tune! My Tele and Strat also have sperzel locking tuners. In my opinion this resolves the majority of the tuning issues as well as lubricating the nut correctly.
I just hand tightened the 10 mm screw on my LP with those Kluson replicas, at the G string, which is the problem string. I checked the intonation, and now it's perfect. This string always detunes with bending, and now it's working better. I'll be changing strings soon and will try stabilizing all of the tuners. Thanks, a lot. BTW I love those EMG's in a LP. I want some on a Strat, though, which will be ultimate in a Strat.
Alfred, I'm glad you've found some solutions to your tuning issues. Thanks for watching my videos! Please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! All the best! BH
On my LP I did - roller bridge, compensated nut, with graphite pencil rubbed in the slots, and locking tuners (with minimal wrap). Almost did the trick, but is much better. I would love to be able to move the D and G tuners in and up slightly to account for the break angle that the strings are at.
Nice video, thanks for posting. I've had no tuning issues with my 2016 Gibson LP Standard with Grover locking tuners, so I'll count myself as one of the lucky ones I suppose.
Thanks curanduraj! I'm glad you have your Gibson Les Paul tuning situation under control! Thanks for watching my videos, for your nice words and please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! God's blessings upon you and yours! BH
Very helpful video. I think the tuning problems mainly stem from the headstock design, where the D and G strings have a sharp bend to get to the tuning peg. These are the 2 strings that go out of tune and also break the most frequently. If you don't mind spoiling the historical esthetic, having a luthier redrill and mount the tuning pegs in a PRS or Ernie Ball design should solve the problem as well. IMHO.
I had a Gibson Les Paul with similar tuning problems. The guitar repair shop told me it was common with LP's and showed me how the tuning goes out of tune by putting it on a CRO (an electronic measuring device). They also told me that Gibson were well aware of the problem but dont do anything about it. They then changed the position of the nut by around 2 -3 mm and the problem was solved and the LP stayed in tune ever since. Cheers.
I'm glad your LP stays in tune now. I find their explanation about their solution lacking though. I don't doubt they put their CRO (whatever that is) on the guitar to measure the way the guitar tunes. There is a difference between the guitar never tuning properly in the first place as opposed to the guitar being able to be tuned but not staying in tune. If the guitar was able to be tuned before but would not hold it's tuning, then moving the nut could not have solved the problem. If the guitar was not able to be tuned at all, then I understand about moving the nut. If the guitar could be tuned but would not hold it's tuning then most likely, during their "moving the nut" routine, it was simply glued back into place better than it was before. That's what I see. Cheers right back at ya!
Now this is a great video and you clarified a lot of stuff in my mind. I have had a Gibson Les Paul standard for 14 years and after using it quite a lot for a few years I put it aside because of the stock pickups tone and of the tuning problems that pushed me towards fairly heavily modified stratocasters and ibanez. I am now planning to overhaul the Les Paul and stumbled across this after watching a few somewhat delusional theories about gibsons' tuning problems. I admit I have been caught for a short time by the theory of the "as few as possible" windings on the pegs and it didn't work at all for me: the guitar behaved strangely and now that I have several winds of string on the pegs I see a serious improvement on tuning. Didn't know about BB King though, if I knew I would not have bothered with those locking machine heads. And found definitely interesting the pedal steel anecdote, here in Italy we don't have many of them. By the way you have an impressive tone, almost like an acoustic guitar. Will follow the video about the pups! Best regards Iacopo
Well made Vdo, your recommendation and warnings are really great and help to have a great instrument! ( your ppt text repeat of bullet poimts are awesome)I feel sorry for you that you got an nice LP which did not stay in tune! Hooe you still love the sound and look of your nice instrument? For me lucky enough that with all that many LPS I played or collected stay in tune, but I will remember your points omce it would have such issues on a future instrument..my thanks Ec
I now have my GraphTech Ratio tuners on my Studio LTD for about six months now, the only thing I've replace on the guitar, and it holds it's tuning forever. Important thing with a Les Paul (with any guitar, but especially with a LP) you have to stretch and stretch your strings many times when you restring or else you will spend your time retuning as you play. And don't be afraid to be aggressive when you do that. The best way is to tune a little above standard, grab each string at about mid length and stretch, retune and stretch till they stop going out of tune.
Absolutely correct, Bsharporbflat. What you described about the Les Pauls is also true for SGs. Aggressive stretching after restringing is essential. If not done, you'll just be spinning your wheels for quite some time. It is also necessary to do even though you may have locking tuners installed because the ball end of the string needs to be firmly seated. BTW, I've never broken a string doing the aggressive stretching.
My understanding is that all Gibsons have a design flaw in the mounting of the G and D posts. That along with the break angle in the nut on 3 over 3 guitars. Especially when the nut isn't carved to compensate for the angle.
I'd also recommend a String Butler. I put one on my old LP and it's done wonders to hold that dreaded G string in tune. Rarely do I have to make adjustments now and they're minor ones at that when I do. It's also a more affordable option to new tuners or a bridge.
Roller bridge and top tuners are very good, but what you could also do is to fit a String Butler. Your problem will be solved. The G string on my Gibson SG would go sharp. After I installed Hipshot locking tuners and a String Butler, the G string now stays in tune. I left the nut as is. BTW, I like the green LP, reminds me of Francis Rossi's green Tele. Love to hear your style of chord playing with Seymour Duncan 59 pickups in that LP.
Bobby thank you for your time and valuable information for me. Sorry that some do not appreciate it. Would be great to see a video making bridge adjustments, string height, tuning etc. I bought my first Gibson, a Traditional Pro V after having a Epiphone Standard for some time and I do not regret it. The Gibson cost me almost four times the price of the Epiphone but I think I got four more times the pleasure in playing it. Cheers!
Thanks Thomas! Thanks for watching my videos! If you haven''t already, please subscribe and hit the thumbs up button. I appreciate it. All the best, BH
the guitar sounds killer. nice playing. i like how you checked the tuning. i'm not really aware of that technique. i can not tune by ear to my satisfaction.
Good idea to check the tightness of you tuners. I do this on very string change, even guitars with locking nuts. Another area that helps is to use like Nut sauce, graphite etc on the nut. A badly cut nut or changing string gauges on a guitar can cause tuning stability issues with the nut not being cut for that specific gauge.
it really does make sense...that is prob why Paul Reed Smith stuff is so great because the guy is a tooler and looks for the tiny details like this...very cool. I actually was in the market for a new guitar and I have always loved LP's, but the tuning and QC sent me to PRS...I would've thought again if I had seen this because I was ALWAYS under the impression "Grovers" were the way to go
@Shane As an example I own both a 2017 McCarty 594 Wood Library and a 2018 Modern Les Paul Custom. So they're both current models and both in roughly the same tier when it comes to price and quality. They are two completely different guitars, even tho they are supposedly based on the same original design. They way they are the most different is in the feel and overall impression. The 594 is a drop dead gorgeous precision instrument and that's the way it feels. PRS made their name on 10 tops and precision, but music that's not sterile isn't precise. The 594 is "perfect" in more of a technical way, and it's beautiful, but it in no way gives me that "feel" of a handcrafted vintage instrument. I didn't buy it for that tho, I bought it for what it is and I commend PRS for being able to achieve it. The LP Custom feels like a vintage instrument, even tho it's modern. It's all the hand work, the little things that let you know you're holding something that was made by people, not machines. While not as technically perfect as the 594, it is much more artistically perfect and has a warmer vintage(y) feel to it. Again, I commend Gibson for being able to achieve this in a 2018 guitar. They're both "perfect" guitars in the sense that they fit me and my personality. Neither guitar has ANY technical issues that affect functionality or playability. They both sound way better than I'm able to play. If I start scrutinizing every detail and looking for "issues" I'm liable to find them... even if they aren't really there :)
MIssing the one key component: String Butler. Binding on the nut due to splayed out tuners and bent back headstock is the biggest problem. String Butler solves that problem.
my les pauls stay in tune perfectly. I set mine up somewhat simular to yours. I keep the tension tight across the neck and it does help keep the tuning better. so does the tuning keys being grover.
Didn't hear anything about the G string and the angle thru the nut which is a design flaw and the biggest tuning problem I've found on Gibson's. My solution was to go from a 6000 dollar Gibson to a 3000 dollar PRS, all tuning issues solved. Stay's in tune better than any other guitar I've owned, and sound's better. Great vid on tuners tho as they do make a difference.
Very informative video. I'm actually a strat guy who does a lot of bends, but I totally agree with you about using more windings around the tuner shaft. I noticed on my main guitar (with Schaller tuners) that if I don't have enough windings on the B and high E strings, the string can actually start to pull out of the post from the tension (which is obviously higher on a 25.5" scale neck). I also use 0.010's, increasing the tension a little more. The lower wound strings generally do not have this issue, as the initial sharp bend coming out of the 'eye-hole' is generally stronger simply due to the thicker gauge of the wound lower strings. I have a Strat Plus with the locking style peg holes also. While I do find that this lock definitely helps with eliminating any possible slippage, I still tend to use more winds on the higher strings. Again, very well thought out video. ;o)
Daniel, thanks very much for your nice words. I think we are on the same page. I don't disagree with anything you've said. Thanks again and all the best, BH
While I love the sound of a Les Paul and Gibsons in general. They ALL have tuning issues with the D and G due to a flawed design. Take a weakened headstock that flexes too much by the wood removed for the truss rod and combine it with a 17 degree headstock angle and you have the first ingredients for tuning problems. Then add in the too thick nut with a steep exiting break angle and the wide spread of the 3 per side tuners and there's the completed recipe. The wide angle of the D and G tuners and the strings breaking down that steep angle heading from the nut to the tuner is the heart of the problem. Shouldn't be that way on a guitar that expensive but it is what it is. You did a great job on correcting some of the issues and clearly explaining what's needed.
Thanks Carl for your positive review of my video. I'm happy with the changes I''ve made to my LP's and I wouldn't undo them but perhaps a couple of things impact the overall situation for me that don't for others. I agree with most of what you've said: especially about the angled headstock and tuner offset so that the nut must be cut at an angle. I see where for many players, these can contribute to tuning issues. My experiences differ from most though because of one significant difference: I don't bend strings as I play. I'm more of a chord-melody jazz type player. I also like old rock and roll and some country. So, some will ask, " ... then why are you playing a Les Paul? If you aren't a rocker and you like to play chord-melody jazz, then why don't you get a 335 or a Gibson archtop jazz box? ..." I see the argument but I like the feel of the LP neck and body. I don't care for the 335 or jazz boxes. That's just me. So therefore, the angled neck and angled cut nut don't negatively impact my playing/tuning experiences. I will say that after a playing session, like after playing one set of a gig, I may have to slightly adjust the G a little bit, I will confess to that. But it doesn't get so bad that I must tune after every song or few songs. And finally for the record, I've gravitated towards Elixir 11's, nanoweb. Les Paul wasn't a rocker either and the guitar is designed by and named for him. All the best to you and yours, BH
I had tuning issues on a cheap $500 Epiphone 1956 GT reissue w a bigsby. Graphite saddles worked, but went to a roller to “open up” the slightly muffled tone of the graphite saddles. Bone nut also. Good quality set up (done by me) including a cleaning, truss rod adj, intonation, action etc, & it doesn’t budge, even with some heavy bending and some crazy bar work. & 4 of the tuning machines were replaced over the years as they have broken, two are originals. One criticism about multiple string wraps. What difference does the number of wraps make, if 99.9% of the time, the string shears off at the bridge saddle? I’ve had breakage issues before the roller and graphite saddles. The crappy stock saddles would develop a burr on the “flat” side. The string would slide freely through in one direction, and would break on its way back through. Thanks to Brian Setzers guitar tech, Rich Modica (if memory serves me) for the “dressing of the saddles with a nail file trick. Overall an enjoyable video!
Thank you for the very informative video. Also just have to say how much a love the tone of your guitar. Very bell tone like, much like those classic Les Paul’s.
Thanks Adam! If you haven't done so already, please subscribe to my TH-cam channel, click the subscribe and thumbs up buttons and I thank you in advance for doing so! All the best, BH
hey Bobby I have a 2017 les paul Standard and I love the grover locking tuners, I don't have tuning problems but after playing over 50 years i'm probably deaf, I still gig one to three times a week and love how fast I can change my strings,
Loose tuners good call! You cant tell when the strings are tight only when you go to change them. Three things solved my tuning issues tighten tuner nuts, stretch new strings and make sure your nut slots are not pinching the strings. If a nut is cut for 10's and you use 9's the 9's will set lower in the nut slots and sometimes pinch. PS: for Tele owners....check that your four neck bolts where it attaches to the body are tight!
Agreed - exactly what my guitar tech told me, tighten everything to spec (including tuners), stretch strings several times tuning upwards, gently file the nut slots especially the centre two on the headstock side where the string angles outwards. I am using 10s - that is what he has set up for. These details are important as is an initial check and setup by someone who knows what they are doing. Then you can maintain it yourself with a little investment of time and care.
Thanks for the video. I have studio Gibson ( cheaper workhorse) but a great guitar. I use a special wrap on my tuners that lock the string on the tuning post, and my guitar is almost always in tune. Humidity and temperature change might affect it a small amount.
I have an old Epi Les Paul copy. It - like most 3 +3 guitars, in my opinion - had bad tuning issues, but not the kind of tuners the gentleman in this video had. Anyway, a Tusq nut, and Tusq saddles ended the tuning issues - period. Unless your tuners are bad, 99% of the time strings binding in the nut, on any guitar, is the reason your guitar is going out of tune too much. Oh, and I used to break a lot of strings on my electric guitars, and I use 12's. After I put Tusq saddles on my old SG, and the LP copy I mentioned, I have not broken a single string. They were all breaking at the saddles.
Your experiences and opinions are yours and my experiences and opinions are mine. The videos I made and the opinions expressed were based on my experiences, not yours - period.
I like locking tuners, never had an issue but that's me. I also hate changing strings so the LTs speed that up, which is actually what they are made for, ease of string changes. My issue with Les Paul type guitars is the intonation issues when playing clean. Good video Bobby! Abbie is worried about that mole on your face though.......
GREAT advice on those Schaller tuners, I already have the roller saddle bridge, I am NOT a fan of those Grover locking tuners, never had this type of tuners in the '70/'80's, just another thing to go wrong, I'll take your advice, thanks my friend, I subscribed to your channel, stay safe my friend, Rock On & God Bless!!!
Have heard of other people complaining about having problems with their Les Pauls not staying in tune? I have three Les Pauls, 1959, 1996, and 2012. Other than having my '59 refretted three times, '96 refretted once, and rapping the string over the top of the bridge stop bar I have not changed anything on the guitars. Never have had a problem with any of them not staying in tune. Never had any problems with "Gibson crackle" either. My question is if you have these on going problems with Les Pauls and feel you need to change all the things you change on them, why even bother buying them?
Daniel, thanks for writing. First, I'm glad that you've not had tuning problems with your Lester's. It's no secret that Gibson management has undergone changes in recent years and I can't prove this but I think that the way that their guitars are put together has changed. That includes the crackle problem. Just my opinion. There are or have been many videos on TH-cam of Gibson owners lamenting about the crackle problem. And by the way, the problems are not ongoing ... that's the point of replacing the hardware on the guitars that I have. Once I've changed these hardware items, the guitars, as far as I'm concerned are darned-near perfect to my tastes. Second, why do I invest in Les Paul's when there are these issues? The way the body feels when I hold it, the way the neck feels in my hand, the playability and the cosmetic beauty of the guitar (IMHO) far outweigh the inconvenience of changing some of the hardware. Generally speaking, houses, especially new houses these days are made with cheap doors and windows. That's a commonly known thing and that's why aftermarket window and door companies like Andersen and Pella do such a brisk business (I hope you're not a home builder!). Similar to Lester's with bridge and pickups, once again, IMHO and a minor inconvenience. Third, one thing I want to point out about Grover locking tuners: I never said that they were defective, I said I didn't particularly like them. I prefer conventional, non-locking tuning machines. That's just my opinion. Grover's are not substandard or problematic. I have other guitars with Grover's on them and they work fine. Fourth, another video is in the works talking about all these points and some others. Fifth and last, Even though your experiences and mine differ somewhat, I thank you for remaining civil with your questions. Some people have written me who were downright nasty towards me which is uncalled for. Virtually all of these were uninformed, they called me names and they reached conclusions that were contrary to what was stated in the videos. Blessings upon you and yours, thanks for watching my videos. All the best, BH
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That 1st chord melody, wow. The tone! Nice touch too.
Thanks Stan! There's more where that comes from. If you want further details, I look forward to hearing from you. All my best to you and yours. BH
I hear this often about Gibson Les Paul’s. I’ve been playing for over 40 years and had a few Les Pauls through the years. I’ve never had any major issues with them staying in tune.
Based on e-mails I've received, I want to clear up an area of possible confusion. The points covered in this video are intended to address and help those players who have invested in a Gibson Les Paul but now have a difficult time keeping it in tune. It then goes on to say what can be done about those problems. Some are under the mistaken impression that I'm suggesting they buy the guitar, then make upgrades to the hardware. I myself might do that but at least I'm going into it with the full knowledge of what to expect with a Gibson Les Paul. Some have asked the question, why buy one in the first place if it is known to have issues? The answer for me is that in spite of the need (IMHO) to upgrade the bridge, pickups and tuners, it is an otherwise outstanding guitar. The neck either feels right in your hand or it doesn't. The body either feels right when you hold it or it doesn't. Those factors plus the bound neck and the fact that I want to support a USA company do it for me. I realize what these guitars cost vs imports and USA Fenders but I'm willing to pay it to have what I consider to be the quality in the areas I mentioned. By the way, I have owned many USA Fenders including a customized Tele I now have. If you would like to make civil, rational comments, feel free. Those who post vitriolic, argumentative comments, especially those using foul language will be deleted. Peace. BH
Once I went to locking tuners on my Les Paul and my SG and it helped a ton! I'm a blues rock player and a big bender and now they stay in tune as well as my Strat and Tele. Great video!
Thanks Josey for watching my videos! I'm glad you've found a solution that works for you! All the best, BH
Bobby, agreed, totally. My Epiphone Les Paul stays in tune but just doesn't have that playability & feel like my Gibson Les Paul. My LP has issues with strings 1-3. I always graphite the nut but this time just doesn't seem to alleviate the problem. I've ordered some Big Bends Nut Sauce. If problem persists, I'll replace the nut or have it refiled. The Grover tuners seem ok...
John564 Holloway - Some ppl seem to have good luck with those String Butlers. Looks like something i'd like to try in the future, but on my acoustic that has a headstock similar to the Les Paul.
Not meaning to argue, I just disagree. I should be allowed to post the reasons I have. We do not have to agree to be able to make valid points that could be informative or educational to your viewers. A good discussion has various viewpoints that conflict at times and should stay posted instead of deleting comments you do not agree with.
A 6000 dollar guitar shouldn't have tuning issues.
I get the point but that is not six thousand dollars.. that standard is about two-ish
Wtf makes you think this guitar is 6 grand lol
I’ve bought Gibson Les Pauls for under a $1000 and even as low as $600
@@Iheartdgd that's not the point.
The point is that it should stay in tune
Richard Díaz I agree, especially after all this time. I don’t have this problem too often though. Obviously 2 guitars will be different, but I feel like sometimes people over exaggerate. Or just need to stretch their strings lol.
A good set of locking tuners is a nice upgrade though.
Over my 55+ years of playing, performing, and teaching, I've found that 99.9% of tuning "instabilities" and problems can be alleviated by properly wrapping the strings at the pegs, and by properly tuning. First, if you don't have locking tuners, run your new string thru the tuner hole, then bring it 1/2 way around the peg and put it under the string where it enters the peg hole, in the same direction as the string is to be wound. Next, pull it up so that it becomes locked under the string when it is tuned up. Leave no more than about two winds when the string is tuned to pitch (I usually leave around one wind). Extra winds leave extra room for string settling and slippage. NEXT: When you tune, first tune all strings to approximate pitch, and give each string a good pull, then re-tune to approximate pitch again. Now, tune each string individually, first tuning to pitch, then pulling on it and re-tuning it until it stays in tune after pulling on it. Do this EVERY SINGLE TIME you tune, NOT just when you put new strings on your guitar!! There ARE some things that will cause tuning headaches, such as temperature fluxuations and sun/shadow while playing an outdoor show, and humidity variations, but this will keep you in tune as well as possible. I've found that tuning problems are VERY SELDOM actually hardware problems, although once in a while, (as seen with the loose tuners in Bobby's video) there can be a mechanical problem, but problems like that are due to poor maintenance rather than actual hardware malfunctions. BTW, I have locking tuners on most of my guitars and love them, and I play 6-8 shows a month average, so MUST have them in tune!!
Kevin, I agree with much of what you said although I differ with you on a couple of points but here is the thing: I appreciate you being civil and explaining your position from what you see as your logical point of view. That's the way it should be. Some people are just downright nasty and furthermore, I can show them the faults in their logic but I don't keep their vitriol on my pages, I just delete them. If a person has an experience or opinion different from mine, that's OK, as long as they keep it civil. Blessings upon you and yours. BH
Kevin thank you for leaving this method and technique as a comment I've come across House video before in the past but just didn't have the patience to watch it. I'm a Les Paul affection Auto have had tuning problems particularly with one Les Paul that I have and thought about in the past even when I was a kid about the idea of wrapping the strings properly because if you don't do it the correct way you leave slippage. You're a guitar teacher you obviously have mountains of experience compared to me and to hear this from a professional is wait to see. I do have another question and I'd like to ask your opinion but it doesn't necessarily pertain to Les Paul's and I don't want to bunk up is video with unrelated stuff would you mind e-mailing me back when you get the opportunity please my email is ssabp8@gmail.com. this too is a tuning issue but it's related to another guitar that I just picked up and I would like to have your opinion please I would greatly appreciate it when you get the opportunity
I’ve found the modern tuning posts very taxing to get right - I did research and found this way I like - thread the end then - keeping as much tension on the string as you can manage - do one normal turn around ABOVE the threaded string - the second turn should go UNDER so you sandwich the threaded string - and all remaining turns follow under that one. I don’t think it matters if the string isn’t sandwiched touching both winds around the post as sometime happens - because after three turns around the post - it’s super tight on the post anyway - like the horses were tied up in westerns hehe. This style you have the string making full contact with the post on each wind - no special loops or locks - and you can wind all of your selected string length all the way down the post which gives a nice steep break angle. Keeping tension while winding is key to this.
The only problem I still haven’t solved with this is the threaded short end of the string- can be sharp and is exposed - which is why vintage klusons style is a much better design imo.
kevin, i would like someone to traslate what you explain in spanish since my gibson les paul is rubbish
I appreciate your videos, thanks. i bought a cheap gold les paul and getting ready to replace all mechanisms. I''ll look for yiur videos and learn from them. I'm new at this. I love guitars.
@@BobbyHoweGuitar
I use "Big bends nut sauce" in the nut slots and on the contact points at the saddle. It helped my tuning issues tremendously!
Just ordered some...see if it helps my quirky SG...that sucker will not stay in tune!
Ew Yall are disgustin!
It's expensive but it will.....put it on the bridge saddles too.
I use graphite and hoppes #9 oil......get a fine metal file and a pencil.... make grapite powder....add a couple drops of Hoppes #9 with it. (can get it in the gun section of walmart or a gun store). It will be like a thin mud. Works as good but will make a white nut a little black from the lead.
Tera Pan Oh shut up.
Always tune-up to pitch after you set the strings in the top nut. Joe Walsh is a genius with setting up guitars.
i saw that 2 ;he's a true boss bad ass
I watched that video too. My set up came out perfect!
Thank you for your information. I've had a different experience. I have a 1969 SG Standard with engraved Vibrola tailpiece, of which I am the original owner. To this day, it is my mainstay instrument of the guitars I own. Early on, I became aware of tuning issues with it, particularly mostly with the G string (it's an otherwise superb instrument). I tolerated its tuning issues for decades, but, as I grew more experienced and wise, I decided to do something about it. I consulted various TH-cam videos on the topic, and spoken with several luthiers, to analyze the issue with this guitar.
Gibson has created very few guitar models that have tuners only on one side of the headstock. Most are 3L & 3R. Because of this, there is a lateral break angle behind the nut to the left, for the A & D strings, and a lateral break angle behind the nut to the right, for the G & B strings (both E strings are straight pull behind the nut). Complicating this is the drop angle of the headstock relative to the plane of the neck. I have solved the tuning issues virtually completely by doing 2 things: replacing the tuning machines with Sperzel locking tuners (which are similar to the Grovers you eschew), and installing a String Butler on the headstock, mounted just above the truss rod cover, which changes those 4 strings' break angle to straight pull, up to their roller bearing pivot points (then, on to their respective tuning posts: no sharp angles). Those two mods have eliminated tuning issues and have made tuning extraordinarily stable. I do not need to wind several coils of string onto the tuning posts; 3/4s of 1 wind (or less) around the posts are sufficient, which also eliminates the potential of the strings going out of tune due to several winds gradually settling in under string tension against the tuning posts, resulting in the tuning going flat. It is also of paramount importance that after changing strings and bringing them up to pitch, that the strings be manually stretched and returned to pitch several times, until it becomes apparent that the tuning remains stable. This is not to say that the guitar never goes out of tune; just that the degree of tuning variance is slight (by cents of pitch) when/if it does.
Stan the Blues Man, I'm glad you've found some solutions that work for you. Best regards, BH
We have here the Bob Ross of solving tuning problems on Les Paul models. Bobby took Gibson’s happy accident and made a happy cloud, all while relaxing you with the friendly tone of his soft voice. Thanks Bobby “Ross”!
Thanks Joshua! All the best, BH
Simple, informative, effective. Very useful and generous time and explanations Bobby.. Definitely beneficial.
Man, I love TH-cam. So much great information on here. Thank you for making a video about this! I thought I was the only one with this tuning problem ( new player here). Keep it going , brother!
Thanks Angel for your nice words, for watching my videos and please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! All the best, BH
Excellent! Really solid thoughtful and practical advice from a great player. The little details are priceless.
Thanks Richard! All the best! BH
Great video, Bobby! Your Les Paul sounds amazingly full and balanced tonally. It's easy to hear that the changes you've made are the
reason. Thank you!
Thanks videonut! I appreciate your nice words and glad that you liked the video. All the best to you and yours! BH
Thats so beautiful when you were like "I dont do much bends....i do this..." = and it was awesome
thank you for taking the time... loved your discussion
Thanks Michael. Thanks for watching my videos. Please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! All the best, BH
This video and another I just watched helped my tuning issues greatly. The most useful for me from this video, was realizing how loose the tuner screws and nuts were on my almost new Les Paul. Even with the standard (non locking) Grover tuners, just reasonably tightening the screws on the back of the headstock (some were simply not in all the way), and tightening the nuts on the front of the headstock reasonably snug. I used some nut and saddle lube also. I bend lot and I went from having tuning issues to really no issue at all with about 30 minutes work. Thanks for your part in this solution. The answer was really just a little maintenance.
Hi Bob, thanks for your note. The situation of yours becoming totally resolved was the exact thing I was trying to convey. You worked it out very much in accordance with what I learned from my experience. I am so glad that you fixed your tuning issues and that I could play a small part in it. All the best, BH
I like the way he checks his tuning, looks way cooler than when I do it!
With my Les Paul, I replaced my tuners with Grover Roto-Grips (I think the ones you originally replaced) and they eliminated my tuning issues. I tend to play heavier riffs so you can imagine the nightmare i was having. I like seeing how other players correct their problems. Thanks for sharing.
Hello lathumpipe, thanks for your note. Glad you've found a solution that works for you. All the best, BH
I replaced the factory nut on one of my Gibson Les Paul Studio guitars with a custom fitted brass nut and I noticed a big difference with the guitar staying in tune. I also replaced the factory Gibson deluxe tuning machineheads of that same guitar and replaced them with Grover tuning machineheads... Those two modification did wonders for that guitar. I may have a go with a different bridge in the future... But right now that guitar sounds great and it finally stays in tune! Right now I own five Gibson Les Paul guitars. One 1960 classic, three Studio guitars and one Custom. My Classic plays the best and I've had zero issues with it since I swapped the factory machineheads with the Grover machineheads. My Custom is the "problem child"... It won't stay in tune and I have had it set up with a professional guitar tech and that helped a lot... I just don't want to modify my Custom at the moment. I enjoyed watching this! Thanks for sharing! Tom Lloyd
Thanks Tom for your nice words and for watching my videos! Sounds like you've come up with some solutions that are working for you! Keep up the good work! All the best, BH
I have a Les Paul Custom shop that's completely stock. It stays in tune like you wouldn't believe. A luthier buddy of mine says the 6/6 nylon nut they use is a big part of that. The material is super slick and dense. Notoriously hard to cut and shape but will practically last forever.
Sorry this is so late but thanks for your comments. Thanks also for watching and liking my videos and for subscribing to my channel. All the best, BH
Gorgeous tone!
Thank you for taking the time to do this I appreciate it happy playing
Thanks Bamacher59!
This is a great video, Sir. Thank you for taking your time to explain this in-depth, issue. Very, very satisfied with your style. Again... Thank you!
Thanks TC! Blessings upon you and yours! BH
Excellent video! Chock full of info. Thank you for going through all the trouble and then posting it here.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! Please subscribe! All the best, BH.
LOVE that Green Machine. A beauty!
Thanks Jeffrey!
Interesting info, and really NICE playing! Great tone, too!
Thanks John!
Your playing is BEAUTIFUL. Just beautiful.
Thanks Jimi and thanks for watching my videos! All the best, BH
It’s usually the g and the d strings that go out of tune reason being the angle that those strings lead out to the tunners. My sullution is to lube the nut and replace the tunners with some locking tunners.
Thankyou for taking the time sir very informative I've been playing a long time and had many guitars over the years including Les Pauls in the end Ive built my own from scratch it suits me better than anything I've ever had and paid fortunes for. But y'know what I built it as a Les Paul and used your tips to make sure I have the best guitar for me and one that stays in tune! God bless you Bobby
Thanks Spannerman! I'm glad you like it! Please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! All the best, BH
Beautiful playing! Smooth and melodically fluid
Thanks Doug for watching my videos! Blessings upon you and yours! BH
Thanks so much. You've nailed it, and your guitar playing sounds so beautiful!
Thanks Green Ethan! All the best! BH
I have a 1978 Les Paul Standard that I’ve always used 8 gage string on it. Recently I’ve gone to 9s and goes out of tune quickly. So I widened the slots on the nut and applied some lubricant to the nut slots, problem solved. The main issue with tuning stability is the angle of the d and g strings to the tuning pegs, it’s a inherent problem with all guitars with 3x3 head stocks. Thanks for the video I will be getting a roller bridge.
I had an SG in roughly the same hue/shade of green. I also loved it.
Great! Glad to hear it!
Thanks Bobby. You explained it with simple mechanical logic and added examples to your explanations. Schallers are seen commonly on many acoustics. I always wondered why they weren't more common on electrics.
A lot of guys I see complaining about tuning on LPs seem to coincidentally use Grovers yet they all brag on their Grovers..
Yes, I know. The Schallers have worked out well for me. All the best to you and yours, BH
You are correct sir...all the vibration loosens EVERYTHING on the guitar...after snugging everything up, i had to have a bone nut put on cuz i had severe binding at the nut...once the nut got right and everything was snug, i can bend forever...it stays in tune fantastic....great vid brother!!!
Thanks Larry! Your comments mean a lot to me, especially at this time! All blessings upon you and yours! BH
Me too: I also wrap as many windings on the tuning posts as possible. It has few advantages, and no disadvantage: the strings are leaving the post on the very round part near the mounting nut- so less breakage there. Also the sound will be tighter, because of different vibration of the post.
I can not relate to the „rule“ of two wounds per tuner- post, because of slippage. It makes no sense to me. Why not half wound? Because it slips?Well, it seams that 1.5 wounds more are not slipping anymore. So, if I wind 10 times, the first 8.5 windings won‘t move eighter...☺️ I doubt very much that there could happen a stretch of the strings..., if the friction is high enough to counteract slippage, there can not happen any stretching.
I also found that tightening (not overdoing) the little screws on the end of the tuning knobs help stabilizing the worm gear inside the tuner, due friction.
I wrap atleast three windings on the posts, I stretch them, and leave the tuning one note high until ready to play, then I retune, with backing off 1/2 note, and bringing back into tune, so I don't normally have problems!
Wonderful tone my friend! Bravo👏🏻
Thanks Dana!
Thank You! i watched every Movie on NetFlix, Amazon, Hulu, etc, But i could watch your Video all day long.. as a Guitar Buddy
Thanks! It is appreciated more than you know! Peace! BH
Excellent. And that guitar sounds fabulous. A pleasure to watch your hands. Very... what’s the word... elegant. Fluid.
Thanks Richard. More videos coming. Thanks, in advance, for watching them. All the best, BH
Thanks for the video Bobby, I will apply it to my LP. The EMG's sound great, and the green machine is a beauty.
William, thanks for watching my videos and thanks for your comments on the green machine! All the best, BH
I bought the Schaller Tuneomatic Roller Bridge, without changing the original Groover locking tunners, it works really really good. The playability is much better, the sound is clearer to my ears and it stays in tune. Great. Thanks Bobby.
Great! I'm glad it worked out well for you! BH
Nice video. Interesting. I solved my tuning issues with a string butler and a graphtech nut. You’re playing is really beautiful. But interesting now that you’ve changed the pickups I would never listen and pick that out as a Les Paul. It’s unique now.
String butlers fixes it for $50.00. It changes the severe bend of the strings at the head and straightens the string pitch and then reduces the amount of tuning your constantly doing. You can get black clear or gold tone. Works everytime.
Ugly though.
Very good, informative video. Thou I feel $ 2000 + guitar should stay in tune well.
Tuning stability has to do with the set-up.
@@S3nna_12 And with the nut. Shitty nut = guitar that don't stay in tune
@@S3nna_12 well actually in the case of the les Paul, it is primarily the headstock design that desperately needs an update.
The angle and the string spread is the real issue. Ideally strings should go straight through the nut
Kjarthan Mørkeberg Reece Thank you. Finally someone not talking this “a 2k guitar should stay in tune” pointless drivel. Gibson designed a headstock that looks great before the science of what you are talking about was understood. If they changed the headstock some people might be happy that it stays in tune better, but the company weighs that versus the concern that people will revolt against it and freak out like with New Coke.
@@TheTMschannel headstock is fine as it is, does not need ‘updating’ a proper set up and the tuning is as stable as it needs to be.
I like your playing. Very clean and nice. I mostly play 80s heavy metal stuff myself so I couldn't play chord melody to save my life, but it's vey nice to listen to. Informative video too! I might look into your tips to make my Goldtop Tribute behave a little better :)
Thanks Mats. All the best from my house to yours. BH
Lovely sound to those pickups, kind of reminds me of the chime Les Paul originally had in mind
The biggest issue is the nut. Usually always is. Not the tuners. Occasionally the saddles might need filing as well. The nut needs to be file for the string gauge and angle that the string departs towards the headstock. That’s it.
Thanks a lot! You are my hero!
I tried to solve the tuning issue of my Gibson. It took me weeks and all the other Videos and forums couldn't help me. They all talked about the bullshit of "its the bridge" and "its the saddle" and IT WAS NOT! I also have an expensive Gibson and couldnt imagine that these parts were of a bad quality.
All 6 tuners were loose. The more the string got out of tune, the more loose was the tuner. Its a simple correlation.
BTW: the tuners of my Strat were a little bit loose, too.
Like some others already said: it takes half an hour time and afterwards you will be happy!
Hello RPJH91, Thanks for you nice note! You are smarter than most because you simply took the advice put forth in the video and applied it with what we both know was the expected results. Most players that write me are reasonable, wonderful people but I have had a few that have said some nasty things about me and what I say. Once again, you are smarter than most. Thanks for being a reasonable person! All the best, happy playing! BH
@@BobbyHoweGuitar You're welcome! Great Guy, great channel. Keep goin!
proper setup and intonaton with lube on the nut and saddles is all you need. Ive fixed many that people say t wont stay in tune. good setup and lube the areas I said with a combo of graphite and vasoline.
and the grover locking tuners are excellent, they prevent unnecessary winds which can also cause guitars to go out of tune.
Excellent. Thanks Bobby for the Great advice, Nice Playing Too!
Thanks Albert! All the best, BH
I use Hipshot locking tuners with the UMB plates and Graphtech nuts, Ernie Ball strings - tuning problems resolved. Sometimes on the Gibson's, the bridge don't fit tight and it can wobble the strings out of tune. That little bit of play renders the fine adjustment of the saddles nearly useless. Not all Gibson's do this thing but some just do, That's why many people like the ABR style posts that screw into the body without the studs, no wiggle room and tight fitting bridge. A locking bridge is a fix for a wobbly bridge mount.
I do this 1 string at a time usually from the bottom E 1st, after removing that string. Using a sharp graphite pencil, graphite tail piece holes, Bridge slots, nut slots, and holes of tuning pegs. 2. Thread string through calculating 3 winds on tuning peg. Bend string on tuning peg so it holds, then hold string taught as it winds down. 4. tune string, then lightly pull string to set the string, and recheck it's tuning. Repeat step 4 until the string holds it's tune after a pull test. 5. Repeat this process for the rest of your strings until all are done. 6. Re check the tune and retune if needed. If you use cliche's and other bends or whammy bar, the guitar should hold a good tune even when stretched. This method sets the strings coil around the tuning pegs. While "dry" lubricating the areas the string passes through. Your local guitar shop may carry liquid graphite. I do this to all my guitars. The 3 winds on the tuning peg isn't a must have 1 less or 1 more won't hurt anything. They also make a string stretcher tool but, "I've never used it from fear of breaking a string" Hope this makes better sense.
Yeah, I guess if you want to go to all that trouble. My guitar stays in tune with far less work than that.
Good helpfull Video! On a Sidenote: These Elixirs are Top Notch. I use exact these too. Nano 9-42. I play them mostly for 3 Months until i change and even then they´re in very good Shape and excellent Tone. Totally recommend these. At the end of the Day they are the cheapest Strings for me, in Relation to how long they feel and sound fresh!
Thanks! I agree totally about the Elixir's. They've been the best value for me as well.
How I fixed my Les Paul Studio 2002: Sperzel Locking Tuners; Wrapping my strings Bonamossa style with extra ball ends 1 on ea string; lubricating the nut well with each string change; new Tone Pros bridge and saddle- very rigid. All electronics were changed but has nothing to do with tuning. Remember the 17 degree of break at the Gibson headstock causes the majority of tuning problems especially with the G string. I never break a string. I use 009 or 010's. My les Paul now stays in tune 99 percent of the time! 1st one I've ever had that stays in tune! My Tele and Strat also have sperzel locking tuners. In my opinion this resolves the majority of the tuning issues as well as lubricating the nut correctly.
Although my experiences are different from yours, I'm glad you've found something that works for you. Peace and well-wishes. BH
I just hand tightened the 10 mm screw on my LP with those Kluson replicas, at the G string, which is the problem string. I checked the intonation, and now it's perfect. This string always detunes with bending, and now it's working better. I'll be changing strings soon and will try stabilizing all of the tuners. Thanks, a lot. BTW I love those EMG's in a LP. I want some on a Strat, though, which will be ultimate in a Strat.
Alfred, I'm glad you've found some solutions to your tuning issues. Thanks for watching my videos! Please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! All the best! BH
On my LP I did - roller bridge, compensated nut, with graphite pencil rubbed in the slots, and locking tuners (with minimal wrap). Almost did the trick, but is much better. I would love to be able to move the D and G tuners in and up slightly to account for the break angle that the strings are at.
Nice video, thanks for posting. I've had no tuning issues with my 2016 Gibson LP Standard with Grover locking tuners, so I'll count myself as one of the lucky ones I suppose.
Thanks curanduraj! I'm glad you have your Gibson Les Paul tuning situation under control! Thanks for watching my videos, for your nice words and please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! God's blessings upon you and yours! BH
Excellent video with great playing and very informative.
Thanks Phil! All the best, BH
Very informative! Nice sound as well!
Thanks Jim! Please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! All the best, BH
Very thorough and informative. Thanks a lot! Time to change the tuners on both of my guitars. Makes perfect sense.
Thanks Andrew. Thanks also for watching my videos. All the best to you and yours. BH
Bobby Howe You as well brother.
:-)
Very helpful video. I think the tuning problems mainly stem from the headstock design, where the D and G strings have a sharp bend to get to the tuning peg. These are the 2 strings that go out of tune and also break the most frequently. If you don't mind spoiling the historical esthetic, having a luthier redrill and mount the tuning pegs in a PRS or Ernie Ball design should solve the problem as well. IMHO.
Thanks, I'm glad you like the video. All the best, BH
Or get a string butler
@@rxw5520 I've fixed my problems without a string butler.
I had a Gibson Les Paul with similar tuning problems. The guitar repair shop told me it was common with LP's and showed me how the tuning goes out of tune by putting it on a CRO (an electronic measuring device). They also told me that Gibson were well aware of the problem but dont do anything about it. They then changed the position of the nut by around 2 -3 mm and the problem was solved and the LP stayed in tune ever since. Cheers.
I'm glad your LP stays in tune now. I find their explanation about their solution lacking though. I don't doubt they put their CRO (whatever that is) on the guitar to measure the way the guitar tunes. There is a difference between the guitar never tuning properly in the first place as opposed to the guitar being able to be tuned but not staying in tune. If the guitar was able to be tuned before but would not hold it's tuning, then moving the nut could not have solved the problem. If the guitar was not able to be tuned at all, then I understand about moving the nut. If the guitar could be tuned but would not hold it's tuning then most likely, during their "moving the nut" routine, it was simply glued back into place better than it was before. That's what I see. Cheers right back at ya!
Now this is a great video and you clarified a lot of stuff in my mind. I have had a Gibson Les Paul standard for 14 years and after using it quite a lot for a few years I put it aside because of the stock pickups tone and of the tuning problems that pushed me towards fairly heavily modified stratocasters and ibanez. I am now planning to overhaul the Les Paul and stumbled across this after watching a few somewhat delusional theories about gibsons' tuning problems. I admit I have been caught for a short time by the theory of the "as few as possible" windings on the pegs and it didn't work at all for me: the guitar behaved strangely and now that I have several winds of string on the pegs I see a serious improvement on tuning. Didn't know about BB King though, if I knew I would not have bothered with those locking machine heads. And found definitely interesting the pedal steel anecdote, here in Italy we don't have many of them.
By the way you have an impressive tone, almost like an acoustic guitar. Will follow the video about the pups!
Best regards
Iacopo
Hello Iacopo, thanks for your nice words. I'm glad these thoughts were of use to you. Best wishes, Bobby
Well made Vdo, your recommendation and warnings are really great and help to have a great instrument! ( your ppt text repeat of bullet poimts are awesome)I feel sorry for you that you got an nice LP which did not stay in tune! Hooe you still love the sound and look of your nice instrument? For me lucky enough that with all that many LPS I played or collected stay in tune, but I will remember your points omce it would have such issues on a future instrument..my thanks
Ec
Thanks Ec!
I now have my GraphTech Ratio tuners on my Studio LTD for about six months now, the only thing I've replace on the guitar, and it holds it's tuning forever. Important thing with a Les Paul (with any guitar, but especially with a LP) you have to stretch and stretch your strings many times when you restring or else you will spend your time retuning as you play. And don't be afraid to be aggressive when you do that. The best way is to tune a little above standard, grab each string at about mid length and stretch, retune and stretch till they stop going out of tune.
Absolutely correct, Bsharporbflat. What you described about the Les Pauls is also true for SGs. Aggressive stretching after restringing is essential. If not done, you'll just be spinning your wheels for quite some time. It is also necessary to do even though you may have locking tuners installed because the ball end of the string needs to be firmly seated. BTW, I've never broken a string doing the aggressive stretching.
That clean tone is amazing
Thanks, Paul. All the best to you and yours. BH
Bobby Howe fantastic video Sir very helpful on my led Paul your tips fixed the problem
Hello Paul, Great! Glad you found the solution to your problems! All the best! BH
My understanding is that all Gibsons have a design flaw in the mounting of the G and D posts. That along with the break angle in the nut on 3 over 3 guitars. Especially when the nut isn't carved to compensate for the angle.
I'd also recommend a String Butler. I put one on my old LP and it's done wonders to hold that dreaded G string in tune. Rarely do I have to make adjustments now and they're minor ones at that when I do. It's also a more affordable option to new tuners or a bridge.
Roller bridge and top tuners are very good, but what you could also do is to fit a String Butler. Your problem will be solved. The G string on my Gibson SG would go sharp. After I installed Hipshot locking tuners and a String Butler, the G string now stays in tune. I left the nut as is. BTW, I like the green LP, reminds me of Francis Rossi's green Tele. Love to hear your style of chord playing with Seymour Duncan 59 pickups in that LP.
I had the string Butler, and it didn’t do a bit of difference on my last ball traditional. Ended up selling it. Going to invest and get new tuners.
Some very helpful tips thanks 😊
Bobby thank you for your time and valuable information for me. Sorry that some do not appreciate it. Would be great to see a video making bridge adjustments, string height, tuning etc. I bought my first Gibson, a Traditional Pro V after having a Epiphone
Standard for some time and I do not regret it. The Gibson cost me almost four times the price of the Epiphone but I think I got
four more times the pleasure in playing it. Cheers!
Hello Eli! Great! I'm glad you've found the things that work for you! All the best, BH
Love your little jazz jam there😊
Thanks Thomas! Thanks for watching my videos! If you haven''t already, please subscribe and hit the thumbs up button. I appreciate it. All the best, BH
Big Ben's nut sauce solved all of my Gibson tuning. I'll never change another string without it. It's great
I've solved my tuning issues without nut sauce.
the guitar sounds killer. nice playing. i like how you checked the tuning. i'm not really aware of that technique. i can not tune by ear to my satisfaction.
Thanks BigEdWo! All the best to you and yours! BH
Good idea to check the tightness of you tuners. I do this on very string change, even guitars with locking nuts. Another area that helps is to use like Nut sauce, graphite etc on the nut. A badly cut nut or changing string gauges on a guitar can cause tuning stability issues with the nut not being cut for that specific gauge.
Thanks 2550marshall! All the best, BH
Very helpful! Thank you sir!
Thanks Casey! You're welcome!
it really does make sense...that is prob why Paul Reed Smith stuff is so great because the guy is a tooler and looks for the tiny details like this...very cool. I actually was in the market for a new guitar and I have always loved LP's, but the tuning and QC sent me to PRS...I would've thought again if I had seen this because I was ALWAYS under the impression "Grovers" were the way to go
@Shane As an example I own both a 2017 McCarty 594 Wood Library and a 2018 Modern Les Paul Custom. So they're both current models and both in roughly the same tier when it comes to price and quality. They are two completely different guitars, even tho they are supposedly based on the same original design. They way they are the most different is in the feel and overall impression.
The 594 is a drop dead gorgeous precision instrument and that's the way it feels. PRS made their name on 10 tops and precision, but music that's not sterile isn't precise. The 594 is "perfect" in more of a technical way, and it's beautiful, but it in no way gives me that "feel" of a handcrafted vintage instrument. I didn't buy it for that tho, I bought it for what it is and I commend PRS for being able to achieve it.
The LP Custom feels like a vintage instrument, even tho it's modern. It's all the hand work, the little things that let you know you're holding something that was made by people, not machines. While not as technically perfect as the 594, it is much more artistically perfect and has a warmer vintage(y) feel to it. Again, I commend Gibson for being able to achieve this in a 2018 guitar.
They're both "perfect" guitars in the sense that they fit me and my personality. Neither guitar has ANY technical issues that affect functionality or playability. They both sound way better than I'm able to play. If I start scrutinizing every detail and looking for "issues" I'm liable to find them... even if they aren't really there :)
MIssing the one key component: String Butler. Binding on the nut due to splayed out tuners and bent back headstock is the biggest problem. String Butler solves that problem.
no, he should put on a compensated nut.
my les pauls stay in tune perfectly. I set mine up somewhat simular to yours. I keep the tension tight across the neck and it does help keep the tuning better. so does the tuning keys being grover.
Didn't hear anything about the G string and the angle thru the nut which is a design flaw and the biggest tuning problem I've found on Gibson's. My solution was to go from a 6000 dollar Gibson to a 3000 dollar PRS, all tuning issues solved. Stay's in tune better than any other guitar I've owned, and sound's better. Great vid on tuners tho as they do make a difference.
Very informative video.
I'm actually a strat guy who does a lot of bends, but I totally agree with you about using more windings around the tuner shaft.
I noticed on my main guitar (with Schaller tuners) that if I don't have enough windings on the B and high E strings, the string can actually start to pull out of the post from the tension (which is obviously higher on a 25.5" scale neck). I also use 0.010's, increasing the tension a little more. The lower wound strings generally do not have this issue, as the initial sharp bend coming out of the 'eye-hole' is generally stronger simply due to the thicker gauge of the wound lower strings.
I have a Strat Plus with the locking style peg holes also. While I do find that this lock definitely helps with eliminating any possible slippage, I still tend to use more winds on the higher strings.
Again, very well thought out video.
;o)
Daniel, thanks very much for your nice words. I think we are on the same page. I don't disagree with anything you've said. Thanks again and all the best, BH
Thanks for your video - appreciate you posting it
Hello Tokyo997, Thank you very much! All the best to you and yours! BH
While I love the sound of a Les Paul and Gibsons in general. They ALL have tuning issues with the D and G due to a flawed design. Take a weakened headstock that flexes too much by the wood removed for the truss rod and combine it with a 17 degree headstock angle and you have the first ingredients for tuning problems. Then add in the too thick nut with a steep exiting break angle and the wide spread of the 3 per side tuners and there's the completed recipe. The wide angle of the D and G tuners and the strings breaking down that steep angle heading from the nut to the tuner is the heart of the problem. Shouldn't be that way on a guitar that expensive but it is what it is. You did a great job on correcting some of the issues and clearly explaining what's needed.
Thanks Carl for your positive review of my video. I'm happy with the changes I''ve made to my LP's and I wouldn't undo them but perhaps a couple of things impact the overall situation for me that don't for others. I agree with most of what you've said: especially about the angled headstock and tuner offset so that the nut must be cut at an angle. I see where for many players, these can contribute to tuning issues. My experiences differ from most though because of one significant difference: I don't bend strings as I play. I'm more of a chord-melody jazz type player. I also like old rock and roll and some country. So, some will ask, " ... then why are you playing a Les Paul? If you aren't a rocker and you like to play chord-melody jazz, then why don't you get a 335 or a Gibson archtop jazz box? ..." I see the argument but I like the feel of the LP neck and body. I don't care for the 335 or jazz boxes. That's just me. So therefore, the angled neck and angled cut nut don't negatively impact my playing/tuning experiences. I will say that after a playing session, like after playing one set of a gig, I may have to slightly adjust the G a little bit, I will confess to that. But it doesn't get so bad that I must tune after every song or few songs. And finally for the record, I've gravitated towards Elixir 11's, nanoweb. Les Paul wasn't a rocker either and the guitar is designed by and named for him. All the best to you and yours, BH
@@BobbyHoweGuitar thanks sir and chord on!
I had tuning issues on a cheap $500 Epiphone 1956 GT reissue w a bigsby. Graphite saddles worked, but went to a roller to “open up” the slightly muffled tone of the graphite saddles. Bone nut also. Good quality set up (done by me) including a cleaning, truss rod adj, intonation, action etc, & it doesn’t budge, even with some heavy bending and some crazy bar work. & 4 of the tuning machines were replaced over the years as they have broken, two are originals. One criticism about multiple string wraps. What difference does the number of wraps make, if 99.9% of the time, the string shears off at the bridge saddle? I’ve had breakage issues before the roller and graphite saddles. The crappy stock saddles would develop a burr on the “flat” side. The string would slide freely through in one direction, and would break on its way back through. Thanks to Brian Setzers guitar tech, Rich Modica (if memory serves me) for the “dressing of the saddles with a nail file trick. Overall an enjoyable video!
Thank you for the very informative video. Also just have to say how much a love the tone of your guitar. Very bell tone like, much like those classic Les Paul’s.
Thanks Adam! If you haven't done so already, please subscribe to my TH-cam channel, click the subscribe and thumbs up buttons and I thank you in advance for doing so! All the best, BH
hey Bobby I have a 2017 les paul Standard and I love the grover locking tuners, I don't have tuning problems but after playing over 50 years i'm probably deaf, I still gig one to three times a week and love how fast I can change my strings,
Nice to hear from you Dave. Thanks for watching my videos!
Excellent video. Very helpful.
Loose tuners good call! You cant tell when the strings are tight only when you go to change them. Three things solved my tuning issues tighten tuner nuts, stretch new strings and make sure your nut slots are not pinching the strings. If a nut is cut for 10's and you use 9's the 9's will set lower in the nut slots and sometimes pinch.
PS: for Tele owners....check that your four neck bolts where it attaches to the body are tight!
Agreed - exactly what my guitar tech told me, tighten everything to spec (including tuners), stretch strings several times tuning upwards, gently file the nut slots especially the centre two on the headstock side where the string angles outwards. I am using 10s - that is what he has set up for. These details are important as is an initial check and setup by someone who knows what they are doing. Then you can maintain it yourself with a little investment of time and care.
Thanks for the video. I have studio Gibson ( cheaper workhorse) but a great guitar. I use a special wrap on my tuners that lock the string on the tuning post, and my guitar is almost always in tune. Humidity and temperature change might affect it a small amount.
I have an old Epi Les Paul copy. It - like most 3 +3 guitars, in my opinion - had bad tuning issues, but not the kind of tuners the gentleman in this video had. Anyway, a Tusq nut, and Tusq saddles ended the tuning issues - period. Unless your tuners are bad, 99% of the time strings binding in the nut, on any guitar, is the reason your guitar is going out of tune too much. Oh, and I used to break a lot of strings on my electric guitars, and I use 12's. After I put Tusq saddles on my old SG, and the LP copy I mentioned, I have not broken a single string. They were all breaking at the saddles.
Your experiences and opinions are yours and my experiences and opinions are mine. The videos I made and the opinions expressed were based on my experiences, not yours - period.
Thank you, this was a verry good video! Now it is time to by new tuning screws!
I like locking tuners, never had an issue but that's me. I also hate changing strings so the LTs speed that up, which is actually what they are made for, ease of string changes. My issue with Les Paul type guitars is the intonation issues when playing clean. Good video Bobby! Abbie is worried about that mole on your face though.......
Thanks Chris. The "mole" I think is an ingrown whisker, at least that's what I think. Going to doctor soon anyway, I'll ask about it ...
GREAT advice on those Schaller tuners, I already have the roller saddle bridge, I am NOT a fan of those Grover locking tuners, never had this type of tuners in the '70/'80's, just another thing to go wrong, I'll take your advice, thanks my friend, I subscribed to your channel, stay safe my friend, Rock On & God Bless!!!
Nicely done.
Thanks Galen! All the best, BH
Have heard of other people complaining about having problems with their Les Pauls not staying in tune? I have three Les Pauls, 1959, 1996, and 2012. Other than having my '59 refretted three times, '96 refretted once, and rapping the string over the top of the bridge stop bar I have not changed anything on the guitars. Never have had a problem with any of them not staying in tune. Never had any problems with "Gibson crackle" either. My question is if you have these on going problems with Les Pauls and feel you need to change all the things you change on them, why even bother buying them?
Daniel, thanks for writing. First, I'm glad that you've not had tuning problems with your Lester's. It's no secret that Gibson management has undergone changes in recent years and I can't prove this but I think that the way that their guitars are put together has changed. That includes the crackle problem. Just my opinion. There are or have been many videos on TH-cam of Gibson owners lamenting about the crackle problem. And by the way, the problems are not ongoing ... that's the point of replacing the hardware on the guitars that I have. Once I've changed these hardware items, the guitars, as far as I'm concerned are darned-near perfect to my tastes. Second, why do I invest in Les Paul's when there are these issues? The way the body feels when I hold it, the way the neck feels in my hand, the playability and the cosmetic beauty of the guitar (IMHO) far outweigh the inconvenience of changing some of the hardware. Generally speaking, houses, especially new houses these days are made with cheap doors and windows. That's a commonly known thing and that's why aftermarket window and door companies like Andersen and Pella do such a brisk business (I hope you're not a home builder!). Similar to Lester's with bridge and pickups, once again, IMHO and a minor inconvenience. Third, one thing I want to point out about Grover locking tuners: I never said that they were defective, I said I didn't particularly like them. I prefer conventional, non-locking tuning machines. That's just my opinion. Grover's are not substandard or problematic. I have other guitars with Grover's on them and they work fine. Fourth, another video is in the works talking about all these points and some others. Fifth and last, Even though your experiences and mine differ somewhat, I thank you for remaining civil with your questions. Some people have written me who were downright nasty towards me which is uncalled for. Virtually all of these were uninformed, they called me names and they reached conclusions that were contrary to what was stated in the videos. Blessings upon you and yours, thanks for watching my videos. All the best, BH
Excellent. Thank you very much Bobby. I am off to get the nut driver and the screw driver... and tighten down those machines very evenly.
Thanks Jack! I trust that this will go a long way towards you fixing your tuning issues! Please subscribe to my TH-cam channel! All the best, BH
Sounds great man
Thanks tgs2012! All the best, BH
I enjoyed this, mucho. (viewers, place the video speed at 1.75...you won't be late for dinner!)
This is a wonderful video! Thank you!
Thanks so much for your nice words and thanks for watching and subscribing to my channel! More videos coming, stay tuned! All the best, BH
Great information!!!! Thanks!!