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Just discovered your channel. Love your content. My first computer was a C64 and seeing the care and love you have for them just makes me smile. Also really appreciate that you don’t bury your videos in awful music and use it sparingly and appropriately. So much overstimulation on YT these days and this type of quiet detailed content is a diamond in the rough.

What a fantastic idea. Great execution. Thanks for sharing this

Enjoyed the video. Thanks for putting this up.

Hi! question regarding a 1541... When I turn on the drive, there are not lights at all, but I can hear the motor and see the (don't know its name) circular thing which goes in the middle of the diskette spinning around... do you have any idea about what could be the problem? many thanks in advance and for your time

36:07 heh. Grab my joystick. 😜

Great video. I especially enjoyed the scope work and the explanations.

Nice video! I feel your pain with forgetting to switch sources, forget ground, etc 😂. Nice that the replacement ram worked by grounding the extra line. Glad to see it working again!

Quick and easy fix. That crystal was nasty 🤮

Your comment on Soder-Wick inspired me to look this up: Up until the mid 1800s British English pronounced 'solder' with the L silent. North Americans kept the old pronunciation, while the rest of the empire evolved.

Good thing they don't use those horrible NiCd batteries that leak all over the place.

Awesome!!!

I have a game gear with exactly the same problem. Do you fix them for people?

Thank you so much for this video. Just finished comp modding a SMS2 thanks to your video. I did put in both audio channels for dual mono. Put in a 100Ohm resistor and 470uF capacitor between the video wire and the RCA socket. Took off the underside bodge wire as well.

Those scorch marks could be chemical burn from cap leakage? Also, you could use the good board to check meter values and compare.

New Sub; Detroit, Michigan, US That is AWESOME! I've Wanted this thing for Decades, I dont remember what Magazine I saw it in, 80s/90s, but I remember seeing this in an Article along-side the SEGA/IBM 386 PC. I have Never seen one of these before, but I have always wanted to try one out for some reason LOL

Even better are the switching mode 7805 equivalents so you no longer need those chonky heat sinks.

Hope you work it out. Thank you for fixing my SEGA a year or so ago. FYI - those Segas are notorius for cracked solder joints on the carport.

9V across the fuse? Guessing it's blown then 🙂

Put it into H!

Would this need any modification to work in a Compaq Armada 7700 series? They also use the Citizen W1D

The original batteries had RCA labels

I also want to convert USA version to European power supply ( from 120 to 230v 50hz). Can I use the same spec caps as you for 230v?

Beautiful! I have a question. I didn't realize there was a 4700c. I was thinking about buying the 4700sx, but then I also saw a 4700ct. The main reason I am looking at the first two is of course the orange gas plasma display. I couldn't find much about the CT. Do you happen to know if it has the orange gas plasma display? Thanks for reading this.

Mine after greasing up the motor on the CD mech works, but strangely when powered on spins anticlockwise and takes about 5 mins to warm up before it wil read a disc (spinning it the correct way, clockwise). Caps seem ok on visual inspection. any ideas why it needs to "warm up" and why the motor spins anticlockwise slowly when powered on by not reading a disc?

Excellent video. I have two of these machines. One of them fixed up for now (recapped systemboard, inverter and remaining screen caps + cf/ide 512mb CF). The other one is still to be fxed (as soon as you connect it to power, it will power on regardless of how the power-switch is on or off). They are quite nice machines. Not the fastest ones around, but otherwise quite cool.

Hello. That is a great modification, one that should have been done from factory. Please execuse my lack of knowledge. I'm trying to have the nVidia Shield TV (same as the one in this video) as the main headunit in my car. I have a broken Shield power brick, so I bought a 12v to 19v 3amp buck converter. I snipped the wire from the power brick, connected it to the output of the buck converter and plugged it in. The nVidia logo showed up and my happiness was short lived. As the screen turned off. Any ideas what could I be doing wrong? I measured the output of the buck converter to be 19.16v Appreciate any help.

I've had my Citizen W1D open no less than 50 times since replacing the belt trying to get it to work. You'll probably be getting a new order soon hahaha

Always so satisfying

Nick where can you buy that extended battery rom pack? That is really handy..!

Great video! I've done the HSIO screen a few times now, and it's a very similar process. Looks good!

Underrated video

Great work..!! I wish i couldt fix those things like you do..

Awesome work! I've got around ten or so old laptops I'm going through reviving. Currently working on a Compaq LTE Elite 4/75CX that's almost untouched. Waiting for a belt for the Citizen W1D. The drive looks brand new other than the deteriorated belt. Not a spec of dust.

I was watching a different video then it skip to this one and I looked up and was just shocked and was like what have you done 😂. Then I realise that you were fixing that Massacre of a mod. Good work at fixing it.

Definitely gonna need to try this! Great video I'm glad someone made this kind of video because the proprietary power cable is annoying

Cant you notice the light patches emiting from the bottom? Its not a permanent fix, you need to get the backlight patches fixed too

Wouldn't it be funny if those ali-chips were from a scrapped Compaq Portable 2 memory expansion card? 😃

Nice work! Could install Windows 3 now at least

Great job! But I'm surprised that you insert ali-chips without testing them first. For me it's always the assumption that not only they are fake, but also not working. So I always follow the rule "check first, insert later". Saves a lot of time. I'm planning to build a self-designed 5160 replica, together with a replica of CGA videocard and replica of adlib, and I can already see that fake chips are going to be a problem.

AWESOME!! I absolutely adore my Portable II and now having this available is brilliant. Well done to all those involved. And if you’ve got no real use for it……. 😜

I'm so jealous!!! Very nicely done! I'm still struggling with my Compaq Portable III and Compaq Portable 386.

Super enjoy the video 👍🏼. Trying to replicate it now 😅

This was cool to watch. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I had no idea a guy could do that.

I've got one that comes with 3 games and a light/magnifier. It doesn't work well enough for my liking. But I'm thinking of selling it for $60CAD, do you think that's a reasonable price? I was just trying to do some research and came across your video.

Hi mate. Where did you find the transistors?

Whats the specs on that Tant cap you replaced because I believe I have the same problem, are there schematics anywhere for this board?

It's a shame you aren't getting the views you deserve.

I skipped to the conclusion. I just have to say; the way you speak there makes me feel like I'm hearing the pilot make an announcement on a commercial airline, just without the euuuuhhhh. It's a compliment by the way. Very mellow and comfortable :)

Interesting. Since you had to run a wire to the A17 pin of the EPROM, is it possible to only fold it outside to make the whole process reversible?

Dude!! Thanks for you help with this vid I had to replace the belt in mine and would have never got it back together without this! I’m still having issues with cd skipping is there any possible replacement or retro fit that I could replace the laser reader with? It could also be the motor that spins the disc because there is a distinct clicking when it starts up