Great video with step by step instructions. I bought the motor assembly from Rockauto which ran about $300. Dealerships were quoting me $800. You reuse the circuitboard in the OEM motor with the rockauto part. It is pretty easy to swap the circuit board, one screw and then just pull straight out. Passenger side is a little bit of a pain to access the back cable mount as the rear AC blower assembly is kind of in the way. I loosen the bolts to the blower assembly to help access the screws to the back mount. UPDATE 11/3/2023. Door has jammed back up but the cable looks ok this time. I’m going to go purchase an OEM part and swap it out. The Rockauto motor never sounded right so I wouldn’t recommend Rockauto for that part.
I tried the $30 cable only fix also. Within 6 months the door wasn't opening and closing smoothly, and a month or so later, the cable broke. I've just ordered the complete assembly this time around. FYI, the part number for right (passenger) side is 72010-TK8-305. Driver side is 72050-TK8-305
Changed the passenger side assembly this weekend. Only issue I had was I was unable to remove the pin after removing the clip from the door hinge. Instead I just removed the 2 bolts from the door. Also, the replacement part came with an upgraded roller assembly.
Appreciate this tutorial. Here's some extra info to flesh out options for viewers: The "$30 fix" is for cable replacement only and the quality of the cable is usually some sort of vinyl covered steel cables from China with questionable tensile strength. Honda OEM is vinyl wrapped steel with 150lb tensile strength. This is standard, but still notoriously short-lived due to the steel cables corroding from salt and moisture (which is why you are replacing them at all). There are MUCH better cables for replacement/fixes than even Honda OEM: STAINLESS steel with 300lb tensile strength and polyurethane coating made in Japan run about $80 online (More than $30, but much less expensive than replacing the entire motor assembly for $450). Using good cables should work much better and last far longer than the $30 fix - even longer than the OEM cables. Either way, how is the full housing repair working out for you? Everything still working well on it?
Very helpful. Thank you! The only thing I wish that you'd added was the specific symptom that told you that this was the solution. I'm still not sure what the issue is with my door.
Thanks for the video. I have a Honda Freed (sold in Japan only I do believe). It has a power slide door that opens when using the door handle but malfunctions when using the key fob or the dash switch. Do you have any ideas about what could be causing this?
Is there a mechanical closed lock so that you can just cut the cables and open/close the door manually? I wish they still made the sliding manual doors like back in the day.
Awesome video thank you, but I have a BIG favor to ask Could you reference one part of your video that shows where that damn piezo electric buzzer is located. Research suggests it's someone on the motor assembly? My doors are working fine but the buzzer won't stop and from putting my ear up to the rear panes it's coming exactly from where this motor actuator is located. Thank you.
Just got this part. it says you're supposed to install it with a new stainless steel male center roller. Without the new roller it can results in incorrect door operation. I have a 2014 odyssey. Is this necessary?
Thank you so much for this video. I have an issue with 2009 odyssey, rear driver sliding door lock. With remote, locking system works but wouldn't open. It keep locking by itself.
Great video man. Loved the, “it takes a little muscle, but you can do it!” Been waiting to install the part (got it back in fall 2021 as my wife reminded me today) because I was a bit intimidated to tackle this. I looked for videos on this back when I got the part but nothing good for my model year. This video gave me the confidence to tackle it. I appreciate you helping me save my family a lot of money. It takes a little muscle, but I can do it!
Follow up- replacement was a little more challenging on the passenger side due to the rear HVAC unit. 7:39 .Accessing the mount for the rear most cable required pivoting the HVAC unit (couldn’t remove the unit as it would require an AC recharge). The cable mount bolts are easy to drop behind the unit, (which I managed to do twice) that added about 10 minutes to my fix, fishing them out with a magnetic grabber.
This video was extremely helpful. It’s making me buy the part (mines right side) and change it my self. Been waiting for a full on video like this. Much appreciated. Would yours pop at times and wouldn’t open or close and had to click button one more time? Thanks again
How did you cut the cable? Do you do it from the outside? My motor went out and the cable won't allow me to close my driver-side sliding door. I've ordered parts but it'll be a week so looking for a temporary fix. Thanks.
Same problem here. I used some wire cutters and cut the cable. I had to take the cover on the exterior off to get access to the cable. Cut the rear and front cable and it allowed me to manually close the door. Van beeped at me if I left the power on to the sliding door. Turned it off and I was good to go.
Save yourself the trouble with the pin and remove the bolts that hold that hinge part to the sliding door. Then you could easily hit the pin on the top and easily remove the C clip.
Great video! Thanks! Question - At approximately 18:18 on the video the left side cable seemed loose. Did you have to re tension that before locking down the assembly down or did it correct itself?
Anyone here just cut the cables and use the door on manual setting? That's where I'm at with this. Our 2006 odyssey had the same problems with the sliding doors. Fixed them, they broke again less than a year. Is there a tutorial for completely disabling the automatic door function?
@@gtxautogroupservice9789 This was the only instruction that worked. I replaced the complete module myself and couldn't get it to reset until this last instruction. Tried everyone else. Saved $900 CDN between the part and service.
Great video with step by step instructions. I bought the motor assembly from Rockauto which ran about $300. Dealerships were quoting me $800. You reuse the circuitboard in the OEM motor with the rockauto part. It is pretty easy to swap the circuit board, one screw and then just pull straight out. Passenger side is a little bit of a pain to access the back cable mount as the rear AC blower assembly is kind of in the way. I loosen the bolts to the blower assembly to help access the screws to the back mount. UPDATE 11/3/2023. Door has jammed back up but the cable looks ok this time. I’m going to go purchase an OEM part and swap it out. The Rockauto motor never sounded right so I wouldn’t recommend Rockauto for that part.
I tried the $30 cable only fix also. Within 6 months the door wasn't opening and closing smoothly, and a month or so later, the cable broke. I've just ordered the complete assembly this time around. FYI, the part number for right (passenger) side is 72010-TK8-305. Driver side is 72050-TK8-305
Changed the passenger side assembly this weekend. Only issue I had was I was unable to remove the pin after removing the clip from the door hinge.
Instead I just removed the 2 bolts from the door.
Also, the replacement part came with an upgraded roller assembly.
Appreciate this tutorial. Here's some extra info to flesh out options for viewers:
The "$30 fix" is for cable replacement only and the quality of the cable is usually some sort of vinyl covered steel cables from China with questionable tensile strength. Honda OEM is vinyl wrapped steel with 150lb tensile strength. This is standard, but still notoriously short-lived due to the steel cables corroding from salt and moisture (which is why you are replacing them at all). There are MUCH better cables for replacement/fixes than even Honda OEM: STAINLESS steel with 300lb tensile strength and polyurethane coating made in Japan run about $80 online (More than $30, but much less expensive than replacing the entire motor assembly for $450). Using good cables should work much better and last far longer than the $30 fix - even longer than the OEM cables.
Either way, how is the full housing repair working out for you? Everything still working well on it?
Where do you get the STAINLESS steel cable with 3000lb tensile strength and polyurethane coating made in Japan?
Very helpful. Thank you! The only thing I wish that you'd added was the specific symptom that told you that this was the solution. I'm still not sure what the issue is with my door.
Thanks for the video. I have a Honda Freed (sold in Japan only I do believe). It has a power slide door that opens when using the door handle but malfunctions when using the key fob or the dash switch. Do you have any ideas about what could be causing this?
Is there a mechanical closed lock so that you can just cut the cables and open/close the door manually? I wish they still made the sliding manual doors like back in the day.
Awesome video thank you, but I have a BIG favor to ask Could you reference one part of your video that shows where that damn piezo electric buzzer is located. Research suggests it's someone on the motor assembly? My doors are working fine but the buzzer won't stop and from putting my ear up to the rear panes it's coming exactly from where this motor actuator is located. Thank you.
What are you changing the cables and driving motor or the activator
Just got this part. it says you're supposed to install it with a new stainless steel male center roller. Without the new roller it can results in incorrect door operation. I have a 2014 odyssey. Is this necessary?
So if door won’t open or close, You need to cut the cable and you will be able to manually open and close it in the meanwhile?
Do you have to take the slack out of the cables after you attach them to the door?
Thank you so much for this video. I have an issue with 2009 odyssey, rear driver sliding door lock. With remote, locking system works but wouldn't open. It keep locking by itself.
Did u ever get that fixed? I am having the same problem
Great video man. Loved the, “it takes a little muscle, but you can do it!”
Been waiting to install the part (got it back in fall 2021 as my wife reminded me today) because I was a bit intimidated to tackle this. I looked for videos on this back when I got the part but nothing good for my model year. This video gave me the confidence to tackle it. I appreciate you helping me save my family a lot of money. It takes a little muscle, but I can do it!
Follow up- replacement was a little more challenging on the passenger side due to the rear HVAC unit. 7:39 .Accessing the mount for the rear most cable required pivoting the HVAC unit (couldn’t remove the unit as it would require an AC recharge).
The cable mount bolts are easy to drop behind the unit, (which I managed to do twice) that added about 10 minutes to my fix, fishing them out with a magnetic grabber.
Is this still holding up? I need to do this just wondering if its still working
Was there any errors? I have Ody 2018 and sliding doors are not works, but I don't have any errors
Just curious, Is your door still working? I know your $30 fix only lasted 6 months.
This video was extremely helpful. It’s making me buy the part (mines right side) and change it my self. Been waiting for a full on video like this. Much appreciated. Would yours pop at times and wouldn’t open or close and had to click button one more time? Thanks again
Mine is doing the pop and takes multiple times! Did you do this and it fix it?
How did you cut the cable? Do you do it from the outside? My motor went out and the cable won't allow me to close my driver-side sliding door. I've ordered parts but it'll be a week so looking for a temporary fix. Thanks.
Same problem here. I used some wire cutters and cut the cable. I had to take the cover on the exterior off to get access to the cable. Cut the rear and front cable and it allowed me to manually close the door. Van beeped at me if I left the power on to the sliding door. Turned it off and I was good to go.
Can I know the coordinates of where I bought the cable?
Great video very thorough thanks for the help
Save yourself the trouble with the pin and remove the bolts that hold that hinge part to the sliding door. Then you could easily hit the pin on the top and easily remove the C clip.
Great video! Thanks! Question - At approximately 18:18 on the video the left side cable seemed loose. Did you have to re tension that before locking down the assembly down or did it correct itself?
Anyone here just cut the cables and use the door on manual setting? That's where I'm at with this. Our 2006 odyssey had the same problems with the sliding doors. Fixed them, they broke again less than a year. Is there a tutorial for completely disabling the automatic door function?
Cómo se llama la pieza? Yo la nesecito para mi honda odyssey 2011
Nicely done. Thanks.
thanks for the video my friend
Why would you take the chair out
What is the $30 fix?
Just the cables...no actuator .motor.cables assembly
Set this somewhere where you’re not gonna lose this 😂😂😂
thank you for the video.
how to reset car door with battery connected
Turn Off Auto on the Dashboard by Steering Wheel, Open then Close Sliding Door Manually, Turn ON Auto Sliding Doors and you should be good to go!
@@gtxautogroupservice9789 This was the only instruction that worked. I replaced the complete module myself and couldn't get it to reset until this last instruction. Tried everyone else. Saved $900 CDN between the part and service.
I hate Honda's!
My balls smell like rotting fish and I’ve tryed multiple creams and soaps but nothing works. Any ideas?
Try the $30 fix first.
Neah, replace the entire assembly! 😅
Unprofessional
How much did that cost?