The glue you are using is a very good glue but used best when added to the parts once they are together. Capillary action takes the thin glue around the part and gives a very strong meld bond. The trouble with it is it evaporates very quickly which is why it didn’t seem to bond.
This was the ideal model to try transfers for the first, as they went on to nice flat surfaces - if you'd try with space marine shoulder pads you'd likely never have touched them again. I would suggest acquiring a Micro Set and Micro Sol set, these are solutions that make applying transfers to uneven or complex curves (like marine shoulder pads) surfaces a lot easier, as they soften the transfer significantly (instructions are on the bottles). Also, seal them with a varnish once dry to ensure they dont get damaged.
Ive been Building and painting tanks planes jeeps boats on and off for 20 years and is what got me into minis. Tamiya is probably the best kits but revell have some really class models especially the number 4 and 5 kits. The sky really is the limit, mandalorian razor quest and the level 5 tornado jet from revell are really really nice kits
If you are interested in getting into military models, Tamiya kits are great. I really love their tank models. I haven't had any issues using their Extra Thin Cement with their models, it's all I use. The casting is also much better than the AirFix kits.
Looks great. That is kind of funny I am 60 and must have built nearly 4 dozen AirFix kits since I started building models back in 1969 and I live across the pond in the states, They are quality kits and I still have several that are not built such as the Jungle Outpost diorama, And pill box diorama in 1/76 along with 1/24 scale FW190 and a few others, A hobby store went out of business and were selling the last kits for practically pennies, along with some great Heller kits. I missed the first day when they sold all the Tamiya and Trumpeter along with other new kits.
Well that's a fantastic diorama. I think you should recreate this in 40k style with that left over impulsor you have now and you can show them off next to each other
I've seen people recommend going over the transfer with a matte varnish to make it blend in with the rest of the model. A more involved way is to first paint the area with gloss varnish to protect the paint, apply the transfer, then put matte varnish on top. I like both Airfix and Revell for beginners, not so much for advanced models. Some people seem to hate Revell on the basis of lack of historical accuracy, but to me that is basically only important if you care about recreating a specific machine, rather than having a model that a non-expert would recognize. Once you get a few models under your belt and want a challenge, I can recommend Bronco. They make fantastic, very detailed models for a reasonable price.
if the glue isn't working you need to wash the plastic in warm soapy water, then rinse the heck out of it with just water, then leave to dry. As for kit, you really cannot go wrong with Tamiya kits, they are very well engineered. I recently made thier "M4 Sherman Early Version" kit and it almost fell together, it comes with 3 figures (2 are just torso & head) and lots of extras to add on to the tank
I use a plastic solvent cement instead of the Tamya glue. It's called Plastruct Plastic Weld. Not sure if you can get it where you live in a hobby shop, but it does actually melt the pieces together.
With the decals, if you hit them with a few coats of matte varnish or matte medium, it'll help them blend in a lot better to the part they're on. When they're shiny like that, they can look more like a sticker than something painted on the tank. Nice diorama though, came out really cool.
Maybe starting with the Sherman kit in the same scale would have been easier. Tamiya good glue, but you have to put parts together first then add glue. Capillary action will join the parts. Nice video.
Airfix are good for beginners and have lots of choice but Revell kits are best in my opinion. Revell glue is a good option too. I prefer to airbrush my models and then paint in details and small areas after.
@@MiniatureHobbyist cool, maybe you could invest in a simple airbrush in the future if you endeavours lead that way? You get a much better finish when undercoated and finishing models and it's cheaper too. You can also highlight very nicely too and lacquer the models really well to preserve the paint work
@@MiniatureHobbyist You can get a good air brush and compressor really inexpensive these days on stores like amazon UK , I used to use one back 20 years ago when they only had oil based paints and it was a big hassle to clean the air brush. But now with acrylic paints it is a breeze to clean and switch paint colors in moments, I bought a whole airbrush set up with the compressor a real good siphon feed air brush and a top load air brush along with a table top paint booth all for under $300 (263 pounds) plus a 12 bottle acrylic paint assortment. It works great.
I used to do Aircraft and Tanks from Airfix, Hasegawa, etc. when I was young then I got introduced to Warhammer. Then my cousin bought me a Gundam model when he was in Japan. You should have washed/rinsed the pieces in the Airfix kit before assembly. I used to have problems with cement glue on them, especially the new kits. The old Hasegawa kits were a treat even though they were much more complicated.
I normally use Revells contacta professional poly cement. When I build my kits. I do recommend Airfixs Spitfire, I must have bult that kit 8 times. Satisfaction every build.
I've played around with airfix, but I wasn't a fan. They're good for beginners, but less so for experienced builders. They don't seem to rinse their parts so their is a lot of mold release on them. Tamiya, Bandai, or Revell is what I recommend 👌
Just a totally different idea how about a small railway diorama using some of the Dapol/Kitmaster plastic kits say a single wagon kit like the coal wagon with one of the side door open by a Coal Office Hut and a Wills Coal Stathes with some 1/76 Peco coal men and coal sacks using a short length of Hornby track built as a traditional British Coal Yard. Which you could Google to see what a small one might have looked like.
@@MiniatureHobbyist thanks yes I’m active modeller with many different subject like 40k/Stargrave, Gaslands & Model Railways. I have built railway dioramas is small spaces like a 25cm square Cakebox, which was themed on Dr Who & Stranger Things. Can I PM you as I could send links. Try Budget Model Railways or OO Neal TH-cam channels.
@@MiniatureHobbyist I’ve got a different railway idea Hornby Basset-Lowke Steampunk range so you could also have a look at that. Also Calverfilm does Sci-fi Steampunk Dinosaur inspired model railway stuff. The Dapol/Kitmaster kits were once part of the Airfix range. So the Diesel Shunter, Cattle Wagon, Van & Brake Van kits and some of the buildings could be Steampunk up. I suggested the Coal Yard as this was the most common local small railway yard but now total disappeared around the country.
Gundams are really simple and fun to build and they technically require no painting as it's a type of model kit that developed in an entirely different way, the Entry Grade RX-78 2 is a good place to start, it's on the cheaper side and designed to not require any extra work beyond assembly but still really customizeable.
If you are going to do a gundam try a HG 1:144 scale kit first they are very beginning friendly Great thing is you don't need any glue at all Or paint to get a nice looking model
Use a cotton bud on the decal and squish the water out from underneath and dab up the excess. I'd love to see you do a Gundam kit, I've built 100 or so, start with the Entry Grade RX-78-2 if you can get it.
Personally I've never tried the Airfix tank models, the airplanes, yes, they have their issues but it's not that bad, specially for the price range. If you want a better quality you can go Takom or Das Werk, but of course if you are in a budget they can be expensive.
I do cars, motorcycles, starwars scalemodels and gundams, i not in to the tanks and world wars stuff. Hits a bit to close to home for me, does not feel right. And get some micro sol and micro set to do transfers, will make them stuck to the models a lot better, and will go down in to panel lines and over curved surfaces with those
Minature Hobbyist if you wanna learn how to some cool stuff about doing tanks and dioramas go watch Night Shift, that guy is amazing and definitely gave me some ideas
@@MiniatureHobbyist I wouldn't do a real grade as first gundam kit they can be pretty fiddly Go for a HG kit they are the same scale as real grade but better for people new to gundam kits
Want to see what Im working on before it comes to youtube click here - bit.ly/3lXeJf4 🙃
The glue you are using is a very good glue but used best when added to the parts once they are together. Capillary action takes the thin glue around the part and gives a very strong meld bond. The trouble with it is it evaporates very quickly which is why it didn’t seem to bond.
Yup, that's the way to use Extra Thin. Attach the pieces, THEN apply. Use regular cement if you want to add a dab and then connect pieces.
Ahh I didnt know that, thank you 🙂
Wow, this turned out pretty sweet, would love to see this on a German Jagtpanzer or Stug.
Yes, lately I’ve been getting much more satisfying results on model kits using the mini painting techniques
Hey thats awesome 🙂
This was the ideal model to try transfers for the first, as they went on to nice flat surfaces - if you'd try with space marine shoulder pads you'd likely never have touched them again. I would suggest acquiring a Micro Set and Micro Sol set, these are solutions that make applying transfers to uneven or complex curves (like marine shoulder pads) surfaces a lot easier, as they soften the transfer significantly (instructions are on the bottles).
Also, seal them with a varnish once dry to ensure they dont get damaged.
Ive been Building and painting tanks planes jeeps boats on and off for 20 years and is what got me into minis. Tamiya is probably the best kits but revell have some really class models especially the number 4 and 5 kits. The sky really is the limit, mandalorian razor quest and the level 5 tornado jet from revell are really really nice kits
If you are interested in getting into military models, Tamiya kits are great. I really love their tank models. I haven't had any issues using their Extra Thin Cement with their models, it's all I use. The casting is also much better than the AirFix kits.
Cheers, I will take a look at the Tamiya Kits 🙂
Looks great. That is kind of funny I am 60 and must have built nearly 4 dozen AirFix kits since I started building models back in 1969 and I live across the pond in the states, They are quality kits and I still have several that are not built such as the Jungle Outpost diorama, And pill box diorama in 1/76 along with 1/24 scale FW190 and a few others, A hobby store went out of business and were selling the last kits for practically pennies, along with some great Heller kits. I missed the first day when they sold all the Tamiya and Trumpeter along with other new kits.
I am late to the party lol, but better late than never 🙂
Well that's a fantastic diorama. I think you should recreate this in 40k style with that left over impulsor you have now and you can show them off next to each other
I just bought a Maschinen Kreiger Mk44 Ammoknight, an egg Stug 3, an egg B17 and an Airfix Snowspeeder to build.
Sounds like you are gonna have fun building them 🙂
I've seen people recommend going over the transfer with a matte varnish to make it blend in with the rest of the model. A more involved way is to first paint the area with gloss varnish to protect the paint, apply the transfer, then put matte varnish on top.
I like both Airfix and Revell for beginners, not so much for advanced models. Some people seem to hate Revell on the basis of lack of historical accuracy, but to me that is basically only important if you care about recreating a specific machine, rather than having a model that a non-expert would recognize.
Once you get a few models under your belt and want a challenge, I can recommend Bronco. They make fantastic, very detailed models for a reasonable price.
Cheers for the tip, yup Im not really into the full historical accuracy but more liking the look of something, I will take a look at Bronco 🙂
if the glue isn't working you need to wash the plastic in warm soapy water, then rinse the heck out of it with just water, then leave to dry.
As for kit, you really cannot go wrong with Tamiya kits, they are very well engineered.
I recently made thier "M4 Sherman Early Version" kit and it almost fell together, it comes with 3 figures (2 are just torso & head) and lots of extras to add on to the tank
Yup giving it a bath does seem to be the general opinion, I will take a look at the Tamiya kits 🙂
I use a plastic solvent cement instead of the Tamya glue. It's called Plastruct Plastic Weld. Not sure if you can get it where you live in a hobby shop, but it does actually melt the pieces together.
Cheers I might take a look at that and see if its on amazon 🙂
With the decals, if you hit them with a few coats of matte varnish or matte medium, it'll help them blend in a lot better to the part they're on. When they're shiny like that, they can look more like a sticker than something painted on the tank. Nice diorama though, came out really cool.
Cheers for the tip I will try that on the next one 🙂
Best to use poly cement, I use revel with the needle tip
Maybe starting with the Sherman kit in the same scale would have been easier.
Tamiya good glue, but you have to put parts together first then add glue. Capillary action will join the parts.
Nice video.
Airfix are good for beginners and have lots of choice but Revell kits are best in my opinion. Revell glue is a good option too.
I prefer to airbrush my models and then paint in details and small areas after.
Cheers, I will take a look at their kits and glue, unfortunately I dont have an airbrush 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist cool, maybe you could invest in a simple airbrush in the future if you endeavours lead that way? You get a much better finish when undercoated and finishing models and it's cheaper too. You can also highlight very nicely too and lacquer the models really well to preserve the paint work
@@MiniatureHobbyist You can get a good air brush and compressor really inexpensive these days on stores like amazon UK , I used to use one back 20 years ago when they only had oil based paints and it was a big hassle to clean the air brush. But now with acrylic paints it is a breeze to clean and switch paint colors in moments, I bought a whole airbrush set up with the compressor a real good siphon feed air brush and a top load air brush along with a table top paint booth all for under $300 (263 pounds) plus a 12 bottle acrylic paint assortment. It works great.
I used to do Aircraft and Tanks from Airfix, Hasegawa, etc. when I was young then I got introduced to Warhammer. Then my cousin bought me a Gundam model when he was in Japan. You should have washed/rinsed the pieces in the Airfix kit before assembly. I used to have problems with cement glue on them, especially the new kits. The old Hasegawa kits were a treat even though they were much more complicated.
Ahh cheers for the info, next time I will give them a bath 🙂
I normally use Revells contacta professional poly cement. When I build my kits. I do recommend Airfixs Spitfire, I must have bult that kit 8 times. Satisfaction every build.
Ahh cheers, yup the spitfire is very iconic and would be a good start for me 🙂
I've played around with airfix, but I wasn't a fan. They're good for beginners, but less so for experienced builders. They don't seem to rinse their parts so their is a lot of mold release on them. Tamiya, Bandai, or Revell is what I recommend 👌
Yup I have been told they need a good washing lol 🙂
great that. if i did one i would have drybrushed over most of the black with grey or brown rather than leaving as much black
I kept waiting for you to say "And then we will just add a few ork parts here..."
Just a totally different idea how about a small railway diorama using some of the Dapol/Kitmaster plastic kits say a single wagon kit like the coal wagon with one of the side door open by a Coal Office Hut and a Wills Coal Stathes with some 1/76 Peco coal men and coal sacks using a short length of Hornby track built as a traditional British Coal Yard. Which you could Google to see what a small one might have looked like.
Sounds cool, is this something you have made 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist thanks yes I’m active modeller with many different subject like 40k/Stargrave, Gaslands & Model Railways. I have built railway dioramas is small spaces like a 25cm square Cakebox, which was themed on Dr Who & Stranger Things. Can I PM you as I could send links. Try Budget Model Railways or OO Neal TH-cam channels.
@@MiniatureHobbyist I’ve got a different railway idea Hornby Basset-Lowke Steampunk range so you could also have a look at that. Also Calverfilm does Sci-fi Steampunk Dinosaur inspired model railway stuff. The Dapol/Kitmaster kits were once part of the Airfix range. So the Diesel Shunter, Cattle Wagon, Van & Brake Van kits and some of the buildings could be Steampunk up. I suggested the Coal Yard as this was the most common local small railway yard but now total disappeared around the country.
Gundams are really simple and fun to build and they technically require no painting as it's a type of model kit that developed in an entirely different way, the Entry Grade RX-78 2 is a good place to start, it's on the cheaper side and designed to not require any extra work beyond assembly but still really customizeable.
Cheers for the info I will take a look 🙂
Came here to say the same thing. And no glue required unless you want to fix on a fiddly part or something.
If you are going to do a gundam try a HG 1:144 scale kit first they are very beginning friendly
Great thing is you don't need any glue at all
Or paint to get a nice looking model
I will take a look at those thank you 🙂
Which specific grey did you use for the first drybrush?
1:32 scale Multi-Pose would be good.. see how they come out
I'll be looking forward to a Gundam kit video.
Use a cotton bud on the decal and squish the water out from underneath and dab up the excess. I'd love to see you do a Gundam kit, I've built 100 or so, start with the Entry Grade RX-78-2 if you can get it.
Yup the cotton bud sounds good as there was a lot of water on the decal lol 🙂
I have done a few airfix kits over the years Model car's and military are where I started lol then fell into Warhammer lol.
Its good to try new things 🙂
Hei! I would really like to see a second warld war airplain or a gundam, it s nice to see different models sometimes!
it would be cool to see what you do with a gundam
Personally I've never tried the Airfix tank models, the airplanes, yes, they have their issues but it's not that bad, specially for the price range. If you want a better quality you can go Takom or Das Werk, but of course if you are in a budget they can be expensive.
Cheers, I may take a look and see if the budget stretches 🙂
Spitfire is a dead easy Kit but looks aces!
I do cars, motorcycles, starwars scalemodels and gundams, i not in to the tanks and world wars stuff. Hits a bit to close to home for me, does not feel right.
And get some micro sol and micro set to do transfers, will make them stuck to the models a lot better, and will go down in to panel lines and over curved surfaces with those
Cheers for all the info 🙂
Minature Hobbyist if you wanna learn how to some cool stuff about doing tanks and dioramas go watch Night Shift, that guy is amazing and definitely gave me some ideas
Uncle Night Shift is the best
Thats what I saw and fancied trying it 🙂
Some Body Once told me...
@pizza loving gal I ain't the sharpest tool in the shed (I'm not afraid to admit it 🤣)
Great vid. Awful audio.
Haha oh well I got it 50% right lol 🙂
Paint a real grade zaku 2 i would love to see how it comes out
I will take a look at that model 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist I wouldn't do a real grade as first gundam kit they can be pretty fiddly
Go for a HG kit they are the same scale as real grade but better for people new to gundam kits