thats because people from other people dont use the super complicated words we use bc its either more annoying to say or they dont know them so they keep it simple
Appreciate the detailed explanation. My only concern is the tiny solder wire used to connect the batteries together. I wonder If vibrant or some other external influence might cause these tiny wires to break ? I suppose I ask why not spot weld a flat wire chase instead to each battery ? I want to build one of these for my offroad recreational vehicle.
They are cell level fuses. IF you got vibration on the pack the fuse Wire is a risk. So its a decission you have to take. For offroad use it might be better to use normal spot welded tabs
@@DIYTechRepairs - Ahhhh that makes perfect sense to me now. I have been researching these power walls or solar generators that some call them. I had wondered why I was seeing these tiny wires being used as buss bars. If I used the flat plates or tabs would I install a fused connection at the end of the string, or end of the connection instead ? Makes sens now. Thanks for the reply and information. Do you have any other recommendations about vibration and or heat or other RV applications for a Power Wall setup in my RV ? I will do alot of OffRoad traveling and vibration is a big concern for me.
Awesome video. Out of all the videos I’ve watched, yours is the best. Keep it up. Now I’m going back to watch your other videos. You’re a great teacher.
2 things to consider. 1. Make sure the wire sits firmly and cant move. 2. Make sure you have some minor slack on the wire or that the wire is sturdy enough to cope with it. But you are right. I have seen people not taking care of above and in the end have had many fuses broken off before first use.
@@DIYTechRepairs but how to make sure the main wire fits firmly and doesn’t move, do you drill holes in the spacer so you can zip tie the wire? Because I saw people zip tie it
Hello i was wondering something. Some people are using 3x4mm wire to make there bus bars. However you are only using 2x2.5mm wre. Why a smaller gauge wire then others? Sorry new to making bus bars and i was wondering.
What vibration? The only vibration is from the inverter and it then need to Travel through the wall. Note that for ev and ebikes i would use proper nickel strips for vibration issues. Hope that answers
Andrew Kloppers - Use several zip ties to pull the to plastic holders together, snugly. Then use long plastic bolts and plastic nuts, between the cells, to make mounting points. The Fuse Wires are OK, as-is.
Yes you can charge it without BMS BUT. With RC charger with balance function this is not an issue at all. But with a charger or CC/CV source that does not have cell level monitoring you should not do it. Nickel strip will work. Its common on most commercial packs. I have that for all my EV packs
I can't follow from one side to the other, I don't see 14s, if I could see 14s, maybe I could also see 11p too. I'm not sure if all are positive on 1 side or if they are alternating positive and negative. I appreciate the calculations at the onset, but wish for more drawn/labeled pictures about the layout of the 14s11p arrangement. Thank you.
I figured it out but man oh man, I had to draw it MYSELF ... seriously, around 13:07 in the video, would have been nice to flip it over, back and forth, showing the details involve. Good job, even though video not as I would have liked, with little effort on my part, I learned a bit today, thanks.
When you charge this battery bank, don't you have any issues with balancing the voltage of batteries? I was maybe thinking adding a BMS to this. Do you consider it necessary?
Bogdan Lapadat yes i think bms is a good to have. you can potentially top balance and go with that for a while as long as all cells are quite even. I do personally run bms on my production packs
I also have a 11.1V battery pack which I built, it's a 3s 60p (my first one actually). I don't have a BMS and I was thinking to use it for a while without a BMS as well, but also wanted to avoid pushing the batteries too much.
Thank you for the video and clear explanation. I''ve a question though: if I make a pack like you did 160cells with brand new SONY MURATA cell (2600mah) rated 30A. the pack will be like 2.6a x 11p=28.6Ah 28.6Ahx14s=400.0Ah is that right? I'm asking because I want to make a battery pack with a nominal voltage of 48v that can keep up a 250ah continuous and 400amps peack. Is thast even feasible?
hey good work what is the difference between 48v pack and 72 v pack I'm building and electric scooter with a 1000 watt motor what do u suggest should I go with 48 or 72v and how much cells will I need also it's series and parallel combination would help alot thanks for ur time
You need to whatch more videos, it's a lot info that you need to know, firstly the batery it have to be the same voltage of the motor and the controler, if it is 48v u need 13 cells in series, and for 1000w at 48v need 20 amps, i recomend u that at least consider 10 in parallel, but it's to low power to use in a 1000w scooter, so if you can get mor cells, do it bigger, the limit it's the money lol haha, or the space in your proyect. PD: i use BMS in my power banks baterys, cause if you dischar al least 1 cell lower than 2.5 v, it gona lose all work. I hope this can help u Regards
@@DIYTechRepairs It was nice of you to answer my Question on the spot. Can you also clarify the relation between 3s and 3p? What is meant by s and what is meant by p? And also why did you curve the wire? And why did you left space for 5 cells on the frame?
@@maazahmed9010 s is series and p is parallel. 3s5p is basically 5 cells in parallel that you then have 3 of in series. I left space because its 14s pack. so it need 14 cells per series connection and 5 cant hold 14. Curve wire dont know what that is
@@maazahmed9010 You are aware of that spot welded packs sits even tighter together? If you have heat issues you need to figure out whats going on. You should not get that kind of heat from this type of cells. In the packs above they have 1mm in between each of them. In ebike packs you have 0.
By chance do u have any documentation or video on how to connect Batrium LongMons to this pack? The way I see it in my head is I will have to use all 14 Longmons on 1 pack. That would mean not all the cells in the middle will contact a longmon. Your input will be much appreciated. Thanks
Hey, I want to build a 16 kWh battery pack comprised of 4 module each containing 350 cells of NCR18650B 5S 70P, and I am confused between whether I should solder or spot weld using spot welder? If I do it in your style I will be able to fuse each cell, and with spot weld, it would be clean and not much local heating. Please suggest what should I do.
I cannot give you an definite answer since both have its pros and cons. I do the soldering since its easy to add the fuses but on the other hand spotwelding is easy and goes fast. There is even people that have done fuses with spotwelders.... In my mind the spot welding can be dangerous too since its very very easy to burn through the cells unless you have it correctly setup. Also note that its a bit trickier to swap cells that is spot welded. With that said it depends on what you feel comfortable with. Soldering does not heat up the pack much if you have proper soldering iron with heavy tip. It though can take some more time to do the fuses...
You have good experience with building the battery pack, the battery pack I am building will go into Electric Van, what would you suggest? I only have two option either spot weld or soldering.
Thank you for this, it's solidified many concepts for me. I've seen a few of these builds now and I haven't noticed anyone build any kind of heatsink in their pack. Is there enough space between the rows in the frame to thread a (not too wide) ribbon of metal to wick away heat where it can be blown away with a fan (or blown onto the ribbon & into the pack if needed)?
i build and use DIY li ion packs for work. I'm using a spot welder and nickel strips. It works as a very solid heatsink itself. Once i connected wrong polarisation and made a long lasting electric short. I noticed that from very hot cables on terminal, the battery didnt went so hot. On another occasion i made similar mistake, the battery also didnt get above 50 celcius. However one cell was badly welded and generated more heat than other. This lead the nickel strip melt through insulator pack on this call and made a permanent short withing this cell. Was using better insulator caps later, however both events didn't heat the battery so much that
Hot glue only to hold it untill soldered. But yeah need to beware of the heat problem. Note that this pack should bever get hot unless something really bad have happened.
Hi I'm Rick from Australia. Nice job on 48v tesla design battery. I have built 20 of these batteries for my power wall using new 2600 18650 batteries. I have tried to work out my power wall capacity but I need a second opinion. Please can u tell me my kw and amp hr.cheers thanks for the design.
@@DIYTechRepairs Rick here.thanks for inquiring because I can't work out my power storage and most importantly how many amps I can safely put in power wall.I have 28 48volt batteries made with 18650 cells @ 2600mAh each.154 cells per battery in 14s 11p...the total cells in p wall is 4312...again thank you.
@@rickrasmussen5864 Are the cells new? If so check the datasheet. If they are 2nd hand then max current is below what they are rated but not above what you tested. So if you tested at 0.5A max is that. And if you got 154 cells max current is 75 or so Amps at max.
Nice complicated setup unlike most videos which may not be suitable for some people so it's good to have an alternate configuration HowTo. I'm a little concerned your fuse was only soldered and not crimped as well, considering this is the main power line with the most current, any high current that could potentially warn up the wire may loosen the fuse. That little gap with no cells is a nice little spot to put a BMS or some other little thing, lcd display, etc. hehe
Dont think the heat up will be an issue and if it heats up the solder will come loose and then it will disconnect :) Note that to heat that connection up it need to flow more than 20A :) Yeah bms could be put there but i will run it in same way as lipo bats are with a balance lead to a board that have the bms :)
Really great... Yes I have a question 1. What is the fuse you added with positive terminal ...? Is it required..? What is the use of this fuse ..? Will it useful at battery pack level or if any .. Because you added cell level fusing already ..I belive this is enough because I don't know In that case I saw few people adding there MCB ...is both functionality works same ...? Can we add MCB ..? Please reply....
Yes, add a MAIN fuse to the entire pack. That is, in addition to the fuse wire on each cell. Don't you have a large Main Circuit Breaker in your electrical panel, and then smaller branch Circuit Breakers, too?
Sorry if off topic. I m building a similar pack for offline. In the mid of searching some good deal battery. While collecting the normal lithium battery, I come across some good deal for the high drain LGHE4 lithium battery. My question, is it possible to mix high drain battery with the normal type in parallel ?
You can of course mix BUT you need to understand the difference between your cells you mix. Mixing new high drain with 2nd hand laptop then you limit the current to what the laptop cells will be able to do.... I would not mix them personally but build different strings.
Thanks for your reply. What you mean by build different strings ? Advantage? The battery bank will be 50p 7s (24v). The battery mix will be even across the 50p in 7s.
7s50p then. Just beware of that the weakest link is what you design for. Different strings would be one string of 7s20p of high current cells with its own bms in parallel with 7s30p with low current cells. They both then are in parallel making 2p7s packs.
I can not guarantee anything. 2nd hand batteries are 2nd hand :) But if you run them through and test them you will get some kind of indication of status of them.
yeah many of them around 1600-1900mAh . So i will charge those again to 4.1v then i will measure after 2 weeks if they keep around 4.05v-4.1v then i will use them :)
Why do you refer to it as a 48V pack if the nominal is 51.8V? I don't really understand the nomenclature for battery voltages. In the sidebar there are suggested videos where the titles include "48V (13S)." Who is correct? Any sources that define this standard? Thanks!
Because the 48V systems go all from 40-60V. I generally state that 48V is the name of the type of pack and not about the nominal voltage as such. The pack is designed for a 48V system and so far i have not seen any system that cannot handle a 14s pack. So it may not be correct to say its a 48V pack but still the pack in question do work on 48V systems :)
So as a point of definite clarification on this (I was puzzled by the same thing), if I Have a 48V charge controller, this pack running at 51.8v will be fine to plug into that controller without any modification at all ??
If you are using a lithium charger, the number of series connection doesn't really matter since you will specify how many series connection your pack has. However, if you are charging your cells with a solar charge controller or a lead acid battery charger then 14s is the best option for you. Those chargers (inverter chargers included) charge to a range of 56.8 to 57.6 for a 48v system. For a 14s pack that would be 4.06v to 4.11v per pack For a 14s pack that would be 4.37v to 4.43v per pack (too high voltage for lithium cells)
35AWG, It could work with enameled wire but you need to test them! make sure the blow rate suits your pack!! Regarding solderin i dont know. You need to test since all wires are different. I use tinned copper directly.
Sure it'll work fine as long as you don't need the fuse perform it's intended function. The voltage rating tells you the highest voltage the fuse is capable of interrupting. If you are depending on that fuse for safety then you've made a mistake.
craigsj nah it will do 100v just fine. this type is included in several larger systems where voltage is higher than my 55v :) so in my case u wont see any difference. but if we talk bout legal or approvment for stuff it may not be ok. but running this fuse on 55v works fine
LOL you're quite the electrical engineer! There are fuses of "this type" rated for higher voltages, though few, but you won't see 32V fuses used in any product in excess of their voltage rating. Those ratings exist for a reason and it seems you are ignorant of what that reason is.
Nah :) "Reason that is" -> Feel free to link in an article or other that shows that running 32V blade fuses on a 48V system will make it totally unsafe. (Like APC for instance does and other inverter makers)
Great video, thanks! Question: how do you charge such a powerbrick, and how do you do it in such a manner that it does this regulated such that all cells are topped off equally?
Rinnert Jan P. thanks. they are incorporated in a bigger bank and are hooked up to a bms that can monitor and balance if needed. its also possible to run it without balancing but i do recomend to monitor it in some way
@@DIYTechRepairs how many packs in parallel you have connected? Your solar system have enough amparage to charge those bateries packs in parallel? Thanks
hi im making a 48 volt pack fore my ebike im 84 useed laptop battery's my bike is 1000w will this work i think im doing something wrong i put them all but to but and the bike shows full power but when i push the gas the power goes down to e could it be that the bareys are not tite enough if yes if i klamp then titer u think it would help thank you in advance
All batteries have a maximum voltage when fully charged. While they are being "used", the voltage gradually reduces until it is too low to operate the load. The "nominal" voltage rating is usually somewhere near the middle of this range.
So quick? Can anyone point me to where i can figure out how big of a battery pack i would need for the golden motor 20kw model. Im looking at the 76v or 92v model
It just depends on how long you going to run the motor for. If its nominal 20kW then you need 20kWh of storage per hour to run it. Thats the easy answer.
I liked that you use a blade fuse. I was looking into something more complicated and it didn't work out. I'm glad keeping it simple will work just fine. Nice job!
Yeah i only had blade-fuses in my cabinet and why not :) I do have larger ones too but for this small pack that max rated should be 11A this fuse should do more than fine. Keep it simple :)
This is very interesting. Do you know of anyone that uses this type of target voltage packs to build a Powerwall? I can see both negatives and positives with doing so. One positive- if a pack needs replacing, you don't need to bring down the whole thing. But I sure like the idea of using Batrium and that seems very complicated with target voltage packs. You're thoughts?
Yes the slave approach of slaves does not fit above pack very well. unless you do like I did with above that you can see in a later video. In that one i parallel all packs with other with a 14s balance wire. I would not say above is the best way i would rather have 1s packs instead of 14s. But as you say its both ways. Good and bad. Not many do above for large powerwalls
Hi brother we are designing electric vehicle and it has 30 kw motor with 390 volt and max drawn current of 400 amps, can you suggest suitable lithium battery cell considering energy and power density please, also would like to know you have not installed BMS in this video, is it not mandatory?
BMS is not mandator but i sure recommend it. If you check my other video you find about BMS to it. 400A at 390V is more than 150kW....?? What type of lithium to use depends. A common one is 18650 cells high capacity and enough cells to cope with the current. 100s40p would work for above. Thats 10A per cell max. You would get 40kWh of storage roughly.
Its a problem kind of and not mentioned in this video. For this setup i will use a balance lead between each pack that will balance them and on the end i will have a BMS hooked up to it that will do the balancing. I hope to cover this in a future video. Have an idea on how to arrange it and i hope to get it done soon :)
I would have covered up the area I’m not working on. It’s really dangerous working on such a huge battery..... No BMS to keep them at the same lvl? I know they will hold the lvl a long time but not forever. But nice vid. Not many people are showing such big battery packs and how they make them. Thanks for sharing your work!
I've been watching your videos about soldering packs. And practiced on the top lid of a xmas cookie tin to get good solder blobs in 1-3 seconds(~ 40 blobs). Previously purchased VRUZEND kits but they are very problematic and not going to use them. I've been searching ebay and aliexpress for cell spacers and nickel belt type strips. I'm so new at this I need simple straight forward packs 14s6p etc... Think you've blown my mind still can't figure out what you did. Pretty amazing you just use what you have 4x5 holders and make it happen. Good job will keep watching your videos. Thanks
Depends. I thought so in beginning to but the 48v is merely a classification based from the Lead acid voltage. 48v comes from 4*12v. That actually spans between 44-52V. BUT!! When you charge a Lead acid you go to a much higher voltage. In many cases all the way up to 60V on a "48v" system. So you actually on most 48v systems can span between 40 and 60V. 13s spans between 41,6-54,6. Meanwhile 14s is: 44,8-58,8. So that's why most people go 14s instead. If you can its less losses with higher voltage in this case but it depends if the equipment can handle it. Some even go 15s :) I calculated voltages based on 3.2v as empty and 4.2 as full for Li and for and 11-13v for lead acid (Some have higher)
You just need really really heavy duty cables, contacts and a lot of batteries. Unless you have a reason i see no use in having 6kw system at 12v when 48v would handle it a lot better.
Hello , i love this build and the video is very informative. Keep up the good work. Quick question , if im doing a build just like this and im using Panasonic NCR18650B or Samsung 25R 18650 , how many amps can i get out of this pack with either one of these brands? Keeping in mind all cells are brand new.
Thanks. Many factors to need to be considered. Just because one cell can deliver a set of amps the busbars and connections come in play. Then you need to think of the heat generated on the cells if you max them out since that also limits times and currents used. With that said I cannot answer your question :)
in 11p Samsung inr18650 25r : 220Amp (dcr) and 27.5Ah in 11p panasonic ncr18650b : 53.62Amp (dcr) and 35.2Ah this guy is a bullshit baitclicker literaly took me 1mn
Hey bro, I have a problem with mine. I built a 13 cell battery for my 48v 1000w motor but the voltage ranges when charged between 48.1v to 54.6v (3.7v x 13 cells to 4.2v x 13 cells) so upon connection my voltage is too high, but then of course drops when under load. I had a massive problem with my bike going up hills even with 8 batteries in parallel to get my amps per cell. The voltage drops too low and my bike cuts out. So I decided to add another cell, and at 14 cells we have a charging range between 51.8v to 56v. You guessed it I smoked my ebike controller. How do I deal with this voltage range especially up hills? I have over 100 batteries all around 2.2A wired together and still struggling. Thanks!
Hi! I think one of your problems is that you have to few cells. For instance laptop cells arent high curent cells. So if you have big voltage drop look into the current you are using from the pack. Laptop pack dont like being pushed to much. 1000W would be 20A but that should be fine. The voltage is another issue and you need to have a controller that is made for that specific voltage range. Only 13 cells can never give 1000W continous and you will kill them. With high drain cells you may get away with it for a very very short time but not with laptop. With laptop batteries you should have atleast 13s15p = 195 cells. (Thats what i would recommend)
Laptop batteries normally can handle only 1A continuous with no voltage drop, so u need a lot of them in parallel. Get IMR Batteries, u can put even 4p in cell so u will have 80A output without voltage drop.
DIY Tech & Repairs Hey dude, first of all, great video. My question is, why use this complicated "maze like" pattern and not the parallel bus bar pattern all the other videos I see using? My guess is to make sure the power will flow thought the entire pack equally and not take short cuts, if that's the reason, does it really make so much of a difference? Thanks.
Because the parallel did not fit :) The pattern does not matter that much as long as you have it consequent and just make sure you have thick enough busbars. I just choose this design random and its done with my lower end cells.
No idea. It have not been relevant in my case since my current out of the pack is so small that IR wont affect it. But if i would guess the cells are between 60 and 150mOhm. So you can calculate what it could be in AVG :)
Ok...my latest 72 volt pack (20s 8 p) came in at .153 ohms which I think is excellent, was wondering if your's would have been better. My 100 volt 20 ah pack usually hovers around 180-200 but its been cycled alot. All data via Cycle analyst.
48V might be safer than 24V if you did not use Tesla fuses, since if one of the group of batteries shorts, and you charge it up, no battery will get that high in voltage. I noticed in the scooter you did not use Tesla fuses and once a certain area of the pack shorted. A pack like this I would only charge to 56V, 4V a cell for longevity.
pirucreek the atv pack is Only charged with balance charger. Above 14s pack have as of today built in bms so none of them can be overcharged unless the charger fails :)
No balance wires since there is no bms on it. There will most likely be an upcoming video about adding a smaller bms to it. Since im not sure if im going with a China BMS or the one I'm building here I'm not sure how to connect it yet.
Good evening, I would like help to make a bank of batteries that would 12v and a larger amperage. Could you help me with a schematic hint. Thank you very much in advance.
im not sure how i should explain that. 12 could be either 3s or 4s depending on application. For 3s its just 3 banks in series. Larger "amperage" as in current draw out or just capacity?
Charge 48V batteries? lithium based charger or just a simple charger? Eltek have some 48V systems and if you go less than 10s you can use RC chargers that balance at same time. So with some more info I can give recommendation
why not make 3 4s x 15 blocks that would give you 180 cells and make the 48v with big packs ? that way you should have more watts and more easier way to wire them...
If you are using a lithium charger, the number of series connection doesn't really matter since you will specify how many series connection your pack has. However, if you are charging your cells with a solar charge controller or a lead acid battery charger then 14s is the best option for you. Those chargers (inverter chargers included) charge to a range of 56.8 to 57.6 for a 48v system. For a 14s pack that would be 4.06v to 4.11v per pack For a 14s pack that would be 4.37v to 4.43v per pack (too high voltage for lithium cells)
Most proper charge controllers have function and can therefore set voltages for charging. You should not use one that you cant set it because they will have bulk and float set. Thats more of an issue i would say. Also the ones that you can set will in most function work fine with 13s for charging. The problem is more at the lower end ie discharging where 13s can go to low so that you have the inverter shut down to early
Hey man, first of all, congratulations for that nice, meticulous and well-explained work. I would like to know, why do you place the fuse in the positive lead? Would it be OK to put a fuse on both leads? Thanks in advance, and keep it up!
Thanks, You can have it on either side. Negative can be more common depending on who you ask. I only put it there since it was a last minute add. And you can have on both too but for every fuse you add you add some minor more resistance and also some loss.
Sorry wiring a bit complicated , u need to show us better the connections .. also can u give us or show where is the +. And - connection of the battery’s ?
What are the pros and cons of doing it like this? If you have ten packs of 14s11p or 14 packs of 110p. The BMS should be easier to do on the 110p. Is there any other advantages or disadvantages to doing it like this?
I get the setup. I was just wondering does it matter if some are upside down (-) and some are not (+) when in a parallel??? I normally have them all positive in one line and negative in the other parallel ..
All in same group is of course turned the same way around. Its a bit hard to wire otherwise. I have every 2nd string same way you could say. Easiest way to wire.
Nice Video and clearly explained - jst a minor calculation thought..... You said you aimed to keep the 'normal' amps at less than 1amp/cell but worst case 3-4amps. The worst case amps would be 33-44amps then? The bus bar starts to be an issue at 32amps?
The bus bar is really not an issue. The bus bar can due to the short length and its in the open air handle twice that. 2.5mm2 is said to handle 16A continuously in closed installation. (Actually 20A) and can easily peak 40-50A over this short distances. Note that i have a 30A blade fuse on the pack. Hope that answers your question.
You are one from the milion.
Most honest and the best.God bless you.
Thank you and thank you.
Thanks for showing people that fusing matters !
better explaination than those that speak english for a first language..well done and thanks
thats because people from other people dont use the super complicated words we use bc its either more annoying to say or they dont know them so they keep it simple
Appreciate the detailed explanation. My only concern is the tiny solder wire used to connect the batteries together. I wonder If vibrant or some other external influence might cause these tiny wires to break ? I suppose I ask why not spot weld a flat wire chase instead to each battery ? I want to build one of these for my offroad recreational vehicle.
They are cell level fuses. IF you got vibration on the pack the fuse Wire is a risk. So its a decission you have to take. For offroad use it might be better to use normal spot welded tabs
@@DIYTechRepairs - Ahhhh that makes perfect sense to me now. I have been researching these power walls or solar generators that some call them. I had wondered why I was seeing these tiny wires being used as buss bars. If I used the flat plates or tabs would I install a fused connection at the end of the string, or end of the connection instead ? Makes sens now. Thanks for the reply and information. Do you have any other recommendations about vibration and or heat or other RV applications for a Power Wall setup in my RV ? I will do alot of OffRoad traveling and vibration is a big concern for me.
would be nice to see how you install a bms, thanks
Check next video in the series and i do it :)
Awesome video. Out of all the videos I’ve watched, yours is the best. Keep it up. Now I’m going back to watch your other videos. You’re a great teacher.
have any of the fuses ever broke due to high current?
Wouldn’t the 2.5mm copper wire moved or shifted if most or all of the fuse wire broke off?
2 things to consider. 1. Make sure the wire sits firmly and cant move. 2. Make sure you have some minor slack on the wire or that the wire is sturdy enough to cope with it.
But you are right. I have seen people not taking care of above and in the end have had many fuses broken off before first use.
@@DIYTechRepairs but how to make sure the main wire fits firmly and doesn’t move, do you drill holes in the spacer so you can zip tie the wire? Because I saw people zip tie it
@@kenjichanhkg zip tie or even just some hot glue. It depens on how much youre going to move it :) zip tie and drilled holes is more stable
@@DIYTechRepairs do you have fuse wire in both sides? Or just one side of the batteries?
Hello system now how do you use the status ? how many years ?
Hello i was wondering something. Some people are using 3x4mm wire to make there bus bars. However you are only using 2x2.5mm wre. Why a smaller gauge wire then others? Sorry new to making bus bars and i was wondering.
Not sure if this has been covered but how do you secure the pack without it damaging the fuse wires due to vibration?
What vibration? The only vibration is from the inverter and it then need to Travel through the wall. Note that for ev and ebikes i would use proper nickel strips for vibration issues. Hope that answers
DIY Tech & Repairs I’m doing a fused pack for a portable power pack and was wondering how to make a secure housing for the battery.
@@andrewkloppers953 make sure its mounted rigid in some type of frame.
Andrew Kloppers - Use several zip ties to pull the to plastic holders together, snugly. Then use long plastic bolts and plastic nuts, between the cells, to make mounting points. The Fuse Wires are OK, as-is.
the is real explicit...but I want to ask if the battery could be charged without a bms.
secondly, can the link connection be done with nickel strip?
Yes you can charge it without BMS BUT. With RC charger with balance function this is not an issue at all. But with a charger or CC/CV source that does not have cell level monitoring you should not do it.
Nickel strip will work. Its common on most commercial packs. I have that for all my EV packs
I can’t make out where is the positive and negative side of ur battery pack , can u tell ur or show in more details ?
I can't follow from one side to the other, I don't see 14s, if I could see 14s, maybe I could also see 11p too. I'm not sure if all are positive on 1 side or if they are alternating positive and negative. I appreciate the calculations at the onset, but wish for more drawn/labeled pictures about the layout of the 14s11p arrangement.
Thank you.
I figured it out but man oh man, I had to draw it MYSELF ... seriously, around 13:07 in the video, would have been nice to flip it over, back and forth, showing the details involve. Good job, even though video not as I would have liked, with little effort on my part, I learned a bit today, thanks.
When you charge this battery bank, don't you have any issues with balancing the voltage of batteries? I was maybe thinking adding a BMS to this. Do you consider it necessary?
Bogdan Lapadat yes i think bms is a good to have. you can potentially top balance and go with that for a while as long as all cells are quite even. I do personally run bms on my production packs
I also have a 11.1V battery pack which I built, it's a 3s 60p (my first one actually). I don't have a BMS and I was thinking to use it for a while without a BMS as well, but also wanted to avoid pushing the batteries too much.
Thank you for the video and clear explanation. I''ve a question though:
if I make a pack like you did 160cells with brand new SONY MURATA cell (2600mah) rated 30A.
the pack will be like 2.6a x 11p=28.6Ah
28.6Ahx14s=400.0Ah is that right?
I'm asking because I want to make a battery pack with a nominal voltage of 48v that can keep up a 250ah continuous and 400amps peack. Is thast even feasible?
hey good work
what is the difference between 48v pack and 72 v pack I'm building and electric scooter with a 1000 watt motor what do u suggest should I go with 48 or 72v and how much cells will I need also it's series and parallel combination would help alot thanks for ur time
You need to whatch more videos, it's a lot info that you need to know, firstly the batery it have to be the same voltage of the motor and the controler, if it is 48v u need 13 cells in series, and for 1000w at 48v need 20 amps, i recomend u that at least consider 10 in parallel, but it's to low power to use in a 1000w scooter, so if you can get mor cells, do it bigger, the limit it's the money lol haha, or the space in your proyect.
PD: i use BMS in my power banks baterys, cause if you dischar al least 1 cell lower than 2.5 v, it gona lose all work.
I hope this can help u
Regards
Shouldn't there be a BMS system installed for this type of battery? or is the "fuse" enought? how do you balance the cells?
th-cam.com/video/sGj9UrfEcAw/w-d-xo.html
Why didnt you use any separations in between the cells ?
Separation? Not sure i follow
@@DIYTechRepairs when they get heated there should be a separation which can protect them from being short circuited.
@@DIYTechRepairs It was nice of you to answer my Question on the spot.
Can you also clarify the relation between 3s and 3p? What is meant by s and what is meant by p? And also why did you curve the wire? And why did you left space for 5 cells on the frame?
@@maazahmed9010 s is series and p is parallel. 3s5p is basically 5 cells in parallel that you then have 3 of in series. I left space because its 14s pack. so it need 14 cells per series connection and 5 cant hold 14. Curve wire dont know what that is
@@maazahmed9010 You are aware of that spot welded packs sits even tighter together? If you have heat issues you need to figure out whats going on. You should not get that kind of heat from this type of cells. In the packs above they have 1mm in between each of them. In ebike packs you have 0.
By chance do u have any documentation or video on how to connect Batrium LongMons to this pack? The way I see it in my head is I will have to use all 14 Longmons on 1 pack. That would mean not all the cells in the middle will contact a longmon. Your input will be much appreciated. Thanks
Hey, I want to build a 16 kWh battery pack comprised of 4 module each containing 350 cells of NCR18650B 5S 70P, and I am confused between whether I should solder or spot weld using spot welder? If I do it in your style I will be able to fuse each cell, and with spot weld, it would be clean and not much local heating. Please suggest what should I do.
I cannot give you an definite answer since both have its pros and cons. I do the soldering since its easy to add the fuses but on the other hand spotwelding is easy and goes fast. There is even people that have done fuses with spotwelders.... In my mind the spot welding can be dangerous too since its very very easy to burn through the cells unless you have it correctly setup. Also note that its a bit trickier to swap cells that is spot welded.
With that said it depends on what you feel comfortable with. Soldering does not heat up the pack much if you have proper soldering iron with heavy tip. It though can take some more time to do the fuses...
You have good experience with building the battery pack, the battery pack I am building will go into Electric Van, what would you suggest? I only have two option either spot weld or soldering.
Akash gupta as said it depends. do the one that suits you i would say :) i do solder to get fuses on 2nd hand cells.
what is the benefit of Fusing cells? Does it really help practically?
Akash gupta it can help. for 2nd hand cells you have extra safety but for new cells i would skip it.
Thank you for this, it's solidified many concepts for me. I've seen a few of these builds now and I haven't noticed anyone build any kind of heatsink in their pack. Is there enough space between the rows in the frame to thread a (not too wide) ribbon of metal to wick away heat where it can be blown away with a fan (or blown onto the ribbon & into the pack if needed)?
In a normal powerwall the heat generated is close to none. Unless you have issues. You only need cooling if you intend to push them to the limits.
i build and use DIY li ion packs for work. I'm using a spot welder and nickel strips. It works as a very solid heatsink itself. Once i connected wrong polarisation and made a long lasting electric short. I noticed that from very hot cables on terminal, the battery didnt went so hot. On another occasion i made similar mistake, the battery also didnt get above 50 celcius. However one cell was badly welded and generated more heat than other. This lead the nickel strip melt through insulator pack on this call and made a permanent short withing this cell. Was using better insulator caps later, however both events didn't heat the battery so much that
If your fast blow fuse wire blows whats holding you bus bars in place???
Hot glue. If all blows there is something else f*cked up. And hopefully the main fuse will blowbefore that happen
Hot glue only to hold it untill soldered. But yeah need to beware of the heat problem. Note that this pack should bever get hot unless something really bad have happened.
Hi I'm Rick from Australia. Nice job on 48v tesla design battery. I have built 20 of these batteries for my power wall using new 2600 18650 batteries. I have tried to work out my power wall capacity but I need a second opinion. Please can u tell me my kw and amp hr.cheers thanks for the design.
How many cells do you have in total and their capacity? Also what setup in terms of series?
@@DIYTechRepairs Rick here.thanks for inquiring because I can't work out my power storage and most importantly how many amps I can safely put in power wall.I have 28 48volt batteries made with 18650 cells @ 2600mAh each.154 cells per battery in 14s 11p...the total cells in p wall is 4312...again thank you.
@@rickrasmussen5864 Are the cells new? If so check the datasheet. If they are 2nd hand then max current is below what they are rated but not above what you tested. So if you tested at 0.5A max is that. And if you got 154 cells max current is 75 or so Amps at max.
@@DIYTechRepairs from Rick...yes cells r new bought from China.
@@rickrasmussen5864 China cells? Fake cells? Check my video about that before you build anything so they are worth it
how many kWh do you get out of it and what is the peak const. current?
I have 140kwh useable storage right now. Peak Power is way above what i Ever need. The LiFePo4 bank kan deliver constant 100kw.....
Nice complicated setup unlike most videos which may not be suitable for some people so it's good to have an alternate configuration HowTo. I'm a little concerned your fuse was only soldered and not crimped as well, considering this is the main power line with the most current, any high current that could potentially warn up the wire may loosen the fuse.
That little gap with no cells is a nice little spot to put a BMS or some other little thing, lcd display, etc. hehe
Dont think the heat up will be an issue and if it heats up the solder will come loose and then it will disconnect :) Note that to heat that connection up it need to flow more than 20A :) Yeah bms could be put there but i will run it in same way as lipo bats are with a balance lead to a board that have the bms :)
Not really. Have you seen a bad connection heat up ;). Doubt it'll happen but I usually just make sure it won't hehe.
Phizicks yeah bad connections do heat up i agree.
Really great...
Yes I have a question
1. What is the fuse you added with positive terminal ...? Is it required..? What is the use of this fuse ..? Will it useful at battery pack level or if any ..
Because you added cell level fusing already ..I belive this is enough because I don't know
In that case I saw few people adding there MCB ...is both functionality works same ...? Can we add MCB ..?
Please reply....
Yes, add a MAIN fuse to the entire pack. That is, in addition to the fuse wire on each cell. Don't you have a large Main Circuit Breaker in your electrical panel, and then smaller branch Circuit Breakers, too?
Sorry if off topic. I m building a similar pack for offline. In the mid of searching some good deal battery. While collecting the normal lithium battery, I come across some good deal for the high drain LGHE4 lithium battery. My question, is it possible to mix high drain battery with the normal type in parallel ?
You can of course mix BUT you need to understand the difference between your cells you mix. Mixing new high drain with 2nd hand laptop then you limit the current to what the laptop cells will be able to do.... I would not mix them personally but build different strings.
Thanks for your reply. What you mean by build different strings ? Advantage? The battery bank will be 50p 7s (24v). The battery mix will be even across the 50p in 7s.
7s50p then. Just beware of that the weakest link is what you design for.
Different strings would be one string of 7s20p of high current cells with its own bms in parallel with 7s30p with low current cells. They both then are in parallel making 2p7s packs.
DIY Tech & Repairs thank you. That is a good idea.
Good video. i disassebly laptop batteries and some of them between 2v-3v so can i use them in safe ? i think they have been didnt charge long time .
I can not guarantee anything. 2nd hand batteries are 2nd hand :) But if you run them through and test them you will get some kind of indication of status of them.
yeah many of them around 1600-1900mAh . So i will charge those again to 4.1v then i will measure after 2 weeks if they keep around 4.05v-4.1v then i will use them :)
Why do you refer to it as a 48V pack if the nominal is 51.8V? I don't really understand the nomenclature for battery voltages. In the sidebar there are suggested videos where the titles include "48V (13S)." Who is correct? Any sources that define this standard? Thanks!
Because the 48V systems go all from 40-60V. I generally state that 48V is the name of the type of pack and not about the nominal voltage as such. The pack is designed for a 48V system and so far i have not seen any system that cannot handle a 14s pack. So it may not be correct to say its a 48V pack but still the pack in question do work on 48V systems :)
Gotcha, thanks for the quick reply!
So as a point of definite clarification on this (I was puzzled by the same thing), if I Have a 48V charge controller, this pack running at 51.8v will be fine to plug into that controller without any modification at all ??
If you are using a lithium charger, the number of series connection doesn't really matter since you will specify how many series connection your pack has.
However, if you are charging your cells with a solar charge controller or a lead acid battery charger then 14s is the best option for you.
Those chargers (inverter chargers included) charge to a range of 56.8 to 57.6 for a 48v system.
For a 14s pack that would be 4.06v to 4.11v per pack
For a 14s pack that would be 4.37v to 4.43v per pack (too high voltage for lithium cells)
48V pack is 13s :) 14s pack is 52V nominal 59V charged
The 32AWG wire you used for fuse, is it okay to use enameled wire? Will the soldering burn away the enamel where needed?
35AWG, It could work with enameled wire but you need to test them! make sure the blow rate suits your pack!! Regarding solderin i dont know. You need to test since all wires are different. I use tinned copper directly.
Thanks, i adjusted my search for copper fuse wire, and found exactly what i needed. :)
Tack så mycket :)
No BMS? You absolute madman!
Huh? I Guess you havent checked the video where i added the bms. This was only the build of the battery
Could you please tell me what is the maximum difference in capacity of the cells we can put in a pack?
What do you mean?
the green fuse was rated for 30A/32v does that mean 32 volts when a load is connected?
Thats the rated voltage of the fuse. So yes im a bit above that but for this application it will work fine.
Sure it'll work fine as long as you don't need the fuse perform it's intended function. The voltage rating tells you the highest voltage the fuse is capable of interrupting. If you are depending on that fuse for safety then you've made a mistake.
craigsj nah it will do 100v just fine. this type is included in several larger systems where voltage is higher than my 55v :) so in my case u wont see any difference. but if we talk bout legal or approvment for stuff it may not be ok. but running this fuse on 55v works fine
LOL you're quite the electrical engineer! There are fuses of "this type" rated for higher voltages, though few, but you won't see 32V fuses used in any product in excess of their voltage rating. Those ratings exist for a reason and it seems you are ignorant of what that reason is.
Nah :) "Reason that is" -> Feel free to link in an article or other that shows that running 32V blade fuses on a 48V system will make it totally unsafe. (Like APC for instance does and other inverter makers)
Can it actually withstand a peak current of 200A for 1 minute?
The fuse Will burn before that happen. And the ir on the cells Will limit it rather quickly.
@@DIYTechRepairs thank you. What about I put teo of these pack in series? In that case will decrease the chance of straining the cells right?
@@shinosg-wiz4619 in parallel. I would say you need 14s200p to do 200A comfortable. Thats 2800cells
@@DIYTechRepairs sounds expensive 😭 thank you for the advice
@@shinosg-wiz4619 200a at 48v is alot of power. A powerwall isnt cheap IF you want it to last :) mine cost above 30 000 eur
Does this battery pack still work ?
Great video, thanks! Question: how do you charge such a powerbrick, and how do you do it in such a manner that it does this regulated such that all cells are topped off equally?
Rinnert Jan P. thanks. they are incorporated in a bigger bank and are hooked up to a bms that can monitor and balance if needed. its also possible to run it without balancing but i do recomend to monitor it in some way
Same
Hi how do you charge this battery pack? all the packs in parallel series or as single pack pack thanks
Its charged as a 14s pack for instance via My solar system.
@@DIYTechRepairs how many packs in parallel you have connected? Your solar system have enough amparage to charge those bateries packs in parallel?
Thanks
@@pitbull1969rr i have 16kwp of solar. I have 120kwh battery in total running
hi im making a 48 volt pack fore my ebike im 84 useed laptop battery's my bike is 1000w will this work i think im doing something wrong i put them all but to but and the bike shows full power but when i push the gas the power goes down to e could it be that the bareys are not tite enough
if yes if i klamp then titer u think it would help
thank you in advance
In msot western countries. 1000w bikes are illigal
did they had the solder on em or you did it before match the pack to get em ready and checked after ? ? ??? nice try man
All batteries have a maximum voltage when fully charged. While they are being "used", the voltage gradually reduces until it is too low to operate the load. The "nominal" voltage rating is usually somewhere near the middle of this range.
So quick? Can anyone point me to where i can figure out how big of a battery pack i would need for the golden motor 20kw model. Im looking at the 76v or 92v model
It just depends on how long you going to run the motor for. If its nominal 20kW then you need 20kWh of storage per hour to run it. Thats the easy answer.
Dang that seems like alot. I want to try building a high speed motorcycle
I liked that you use a blade fuse. I was looking into something more complicated and it didn't work out. I'm glad keeping it simple will work just fine. Nice job!
Yeah i only had blade-fuses in my cabinet and why not :) I do have larger ones too but for this small pack that max rated should be 11A this fuse should do more than fine.
Keep it simple :)
Why not? Because the fuse you used it not rated for the task?
11 amps = 11 amps, not matter what type of fuse you use...
Hi, any update on balance lead and how to hook it up to the BMS? Cheers
SkyOrc i did a bms intro vido among another one. check those out for now. for above pack there will be a different approach :)
Good
This is very interesting. Do you know of anyone that uses this type of target voltage packs to build a Powerwall? I can see both negatives and positives with doing so. One positive- if a pack needs replacing, you don't need to bring down the whole thing. But I sure like the idea of using Batrium and that seems very complicated with target voltage packs. You're thoughts?
Yes the slave approach of slaves does not fit above pack very well. unless you do like I did with above that you can see in a later video. In that one i parallel all packs with other with a 14s balance wire. I would not say above is the best way i would rather have 1s packs instead of 14s. But as you say its both ways. Good and bad. Not many do above for large powerwalls
Hi brother we are designing electric vehicle and it has 30 kw motor with 390 volt and max drawn current of 400 amps, can you suggest suitable lithium battery cell considering energy and power density please, also would like to know you have not installed BMS in this video, is it not mandatory?
BMS is not mandator but i sure recommend it. If you check my other video you find about BMS to it. 400A at 390V is more than 150kW....?? What type of lithium to use depends. A common one is 18650 cells high capacity and enough cells to cope with the current. 100s40p would work for above. Thats 10A per cell max. You would get 40kWh of storage roughly.
How do you recharge that baterry pack? With the recharging can you have all the batteries leveled?
Its a problem kind of and not mentioned in this video. For this setup i will use a balance lead between each pack that will balance them and on the end i will have a BMS hooked up to it that will do the balancing. I hope to cover this in a future video. Have an idea on how to arrange it and i hope to get it done soon :)
Thanks!
I would have covered up the area I’m not working on. It’s really dangerous working on such a huge battery.....
No BMS to keep them at the same lvl? I know they will hold the lvl a long time but not forever.
But nice vid. Not many people are showing such big battery packs and how they make them.
Thanks for sharing your work!
Why cover the area? Regarding the BMS check next video. This is only about building the battery itself.
Thanks!
I've been watching your videos about soldering packs. And practiced on the top lid of a xmas cookie tin to get good solder blobs in 1-3 seconds(~ 40 blobs). Previously purchased VRUZEND kits but they are very problematic and not going to use them. I've been searching ebay and aliexpress for cell spacers and nickel belt type strips. I'm so new at this I need simple straight forward packs 14s6p etc... Think you've blown my mind still can't figure out what you did. Pretty amazing you just use what you have 4x5 holders and make it happen. Good job will keep watching your videos.
Thanks
bbolin711 hi mate do you still have the vruzend kits?
what do you think about screw vs flat batteries?
From one side you used 5A fuse wire. What did you use on other side?
Normal Wire or same
48v should be 13s?
Depends. I thought so in beginning to but the 48v is merely a classification based from the Lead acid voltage. 48v comes from 4*12v. That actually spans between 44-52V. BUT!! When you charge a Lead acid you go to a much higher voltage. In many cases all the way up to 60V on a "48v" system.
So you actually on most 48v systems can span between 40 and 60V.
13s spans between 41,6-54,6. Meanwhile 14s is: 44,8-58,8. So that's why most people go 14s instead. If you can its less losses with higher voltage in this case but it depends if the equipment can handle it. Some even go 15s :)
I calculated voltages based on 3.2v as empty and 4.2 as full for Li and for and 11-13v for lead acid (Some have higher)
DIY Tech & Repairs
nice video I like it so much but I have question.
can I make more than 500 amp 12 v and how if I can ?
thanks
You just need really really heavy duty cables, contacts and a lot of batteries. Unless you have a reason i see no use in having 6kw system at 12v when 48v would handle it a lot better.
If to use this in electric bike with 48v controller, chance to overheat controller and standard 13s charger can not be used.
Hello , i love this build and the video is very informative. Keep up the good work. Quick question , if im doing a build just like this and im using Panasonic NCR18650B or Samsung 25R 18650 , how many amps can i get out of this pack with either one of these brands? Keeping in mind all cells are brand new.
Thanks. Many factors to need to be considered. Just because one cell can deliver a set of amps the busbars and connections come in play. Then you need to think of the heat generated on the cells if you max them out since that also limits times and currents used. With that said I cannot answer your question :)
@@DIYTechRepairs thank you for your reply
in 11p Samsung inr18650 25r : 220Amp (dcr) and 27.5Ah
in 11p panasonic ncr18650b :
53.62Amp (dcr) and 35.2Ah
this guy is a bullshit baitclicker literaly took me 1mn
Hey bro, I have a problem with mine. I built a 13 cell battery for my 48v 1000w motor but the voltage ranges when charged between 48.1v to 54.6v (3.7v x 13 cells to 4.2v x 13 cells) so upon connection my voltage is too high, but then of course drops when under load.
I had a massive problem with my bike going up hills even with 8 batteries in parallel to get my amps per cell. The voltage drops too low and my bike cuts out.
So I decided to add another cell, and at 14 cells we have a charging range between 51.8v to 56v. You guessed it I smoked my ebike controller.
How do I deal with this voltage range especially up hills? I have over 100 batteries all around 2.2A wired together and still struggling.
Thanks!
Hi! I think one of your problems is that you have to few cells. For instance laptop cells arent high curent cells. So if you have big voltage drop look into the current you are using from the pack. Laptop pack dont like being pushed to much. 1000W would be 20A but that should be fine. The voltage is another issue and you need to have a controller that is made for that specific voltage range. Only 13 cells can never give 1000W continous and you will kill them. With high drain cells you may get away with it for a very very short time but not with laptop. With laptop batteries you should have atleast 13s15p = 195 cells. (Thats what i would recommend)
Thank you I'll certainly add more cells to it. Forgive me but what does 13s15p mean exactly?
13s 15p is = 13 packs of 15 in parallell that is in series.
Thanks I've been adding more cells since then working on getting to 13s15p.
Laptop batteries normally can handle only 1A continuous with no voltage drop, so u need a lot of them in parallel. Get IMR Batteries, u can put even 4p in cell so u will have 80A output without voltage drop.
DIY Tech & Repairs Hey dude, first of all, great video. My question is, why use this complicated "maze like" pattern and not the parallel bus bar pattern all the other videos I see using? My guess is to make sure the power will flow thought the entire pack equally and not take short cuts, if that's the reason, does it really make so much of a difference? Thanks.
Because the parallel did not fit :) The pattern does not matter that much as long as you have it consequent and just make sure you have thick enough busbars. I just choose this design random and its done with my lower end cells.
Curious....What do you power with this setup? and How long will it run before needing a recharge?
lm0315 my house. though this is just a very very small part. the main bank is o 50+ kwh
wow, awesome! Is your bank recharged via Solar
lm0315 yeap. 11kw currently. and hopefully soon 17 kw of solar :)
Nice build video! What kind of soldering is it that you are using? I have not seen a curved one like that, before.
The soldering iron? Its a normal big pen with bend tip. Like this one goo.gl/ed8FOh (Ebay link)
why are you using 51.8v mentioning 48v ? 13s=48.1 and 14s=51.8v? sir please can u reply to this or if anyone else could help
?
Its not nominal voltage. Its the default based la voltage
@@DIYTechRepairs thanks!!
Im interested in knowing what the total pack resistance was.
No idea. It have not been relevant in my case since my current out of the pack is so small that IR wont affect it.
But if i would guess the cells are between 60 and 150mOhm. So you can calculate what it could be in AVG :)
Ok...my latest 72 volt pack (20s 8 p) came in at .153 ohms which I think is excellent, was wondering if your's would have been better. My 100 volt 20 ah pack usually hovers around 180-200 but its been cycled alot. All data via Cycle analyst.
153 sound a bit high for 8p. But it depends on the cells. If i got spare time i might be able to do a test on the pack and see.
The cells are panasonic NCR18650B
type of charge controller your are going to use
List can be found here: diytechandrepairs.nu/current-solar-layout/
how many amps can that fuse wire handle?
5A
48V might be safer than 24V if you did not use Tesla fuses, since if one of the group of batteries shorts, and you charge it up, no battery will get that high in voltage. I noticed in the scooter you did not use Tesla fuses and once a certain area of the pack shorted. A pack like this I would only charge to 56V, 4V a cell for longevity.
pirucreek the atv pack is Only charged with balance charger. Above 14s pack have as of today built in bms so none of them can be overcharged unless the charger fails :)
Really, really nice. Two questions: won't you put balance wires? If not, how are you going to charge it?
No balance wires since there is no bms on it. There will most likely be an upcoming video about adding a smaller bms to it. Since im not sure if im going with a China BMS or the one I'm building here I'm not sure how to connect it yet.
DIY Tech & Repairs Nice!
Good evening, I would like help to make a bank of batteries that would
12v and a larger amperage. Could you help me with a schematic hint.
Thank you very much in advance.
im not sure how i should explain that. 12 could be either 3s or 4s depending on application. For 3s its just 3 banks in series. Larger "amperage" as in current draw out or just capacity?
What are medium capacity per each cell? Can I use parallel two cells with 1500 and 2300 mAh for example?
Will work just fine. Just have the same amount of low and high end cells in each pack according to th-cam.com/video/jsXzaGmmvDc/w-d-xo.html
Can you suggest a charger for this pack (or for 13s )
Are you using any BMS? Im curious wich one.. Thanks for the video.
Haha.. simple but risky. That is the jehugarcia way of doing things.
Got it! :)
This can power a golf cart, right?
Can you build a 53v of 18650 pack 20 amp for my 3 wheel e-bike
I dont build packs for others. Sorry
you need also to convert this voltage to 220 v to use enegy in house for example
Do not need a b.m.s system?
Super video!! Very informative, one question: if I want to charge the pack from the grid, could you recomend a charger?
Charge 48V batteries? lithium based charger or just a simple charger? Eltek have some 48V systems and if you go less than 10s you can use RC chargers that balance at same time. So with some more info I can give recommendation
why not make 3 4s x 15 blocks that would give you 180 cells and make the 48v with big packs ? that way you should have more watts and more easier way to wire them...
This was merely a concept setup for testing purposes. On my main system i run 14s80p setup.
3*4 = 12.
That Is AWESOME How I want to do it ! I wonder if there is a way to lay out to cut down on the Buss System Is a bit complicated to me but I'm a Newbie
Where is your BMS
are using a ac dc converter for using energy in house
I always get you and my play house mixed up
:) hes danish and im Swede but yeah i get you on that
What is the advantage over 13s?
Higher voltage and fits better to most inverters. 13s will be to low. 13s can easy go down to 39V and not many inverters will like that.
If you are using a lithium charger, the number of series connection doesn't really matter since you will specify how many series connection your pack has.
However, if you are charging your cells with a solar charge controller or a lead acid battery charger then 14s is the best option for you.
Those chargers (inverter chargers included) charge to a range of 56.8 to 57.6 for a 48v system.
For a 14s pack that would be 4.06v to 4.11v per pack
For a 14s pack that would be 4.37v to 4.43v per pack (too high voltage for lithium cells)
Most proper charge controllers have function and can therefore set voltages for charging. You should not use one that you cant set it because they will have bulk and float set. Thats more of an issue i would say. Also the ones that you can set will in most function work fine with 13s for charging. The problem is more at the lower end ie discharging where 13s can go to low so that you have the inverter shut down to early
@@naijawindandsolar looks like here is mistake in your answer 13pack, not 14
where the protection board bms?????
In next video. Look up the smart bms install
Hey man, first of all, congratulations for that nice, meticulous and well-explained work. I would like to know, why do you place the fuse in the positive lead? Would it be OK to put a fuse on both leads? Thanks in advance, and keep it up!
Thanks, You can have it on either side. Negative can be more common depending on who you ask. I only put it there since it was a last minute add. And you can have on both too but for every fuse you add you add some minor more resistance and also some loss.
What happened if I soldering?
Im not sure what is going to happen if you solder...
Sorry wiring a bit complicated , u need to show us better the connections .. also can u give us or show where is the +. And - connection of the battery’s ?
how much is 1 cell price in your country?
adinoors depends. New are expensive. 2nd hand you can almost get for free in some areas
how much is the new one? in my place is around $5 for sony brand
adinoors nkon.nl give decent price and ships to us
and the bms where it is?
bran marinica next video
Were is the BMS
Next video...
what did you use it on.
In My solar Power wall
Lol "Gently" tapping them down... Great vid tho
funny the twisted wire... thats exactly what i did.. i thought i totally came up with it.
No bms?
Check next video
What about BMS?
Next video? ;)
The video is There... Just check My list of the smart bms install
@@DIYTechRepairs Thank you!
Hello how much will cost to build one?, Will you build one and sell it to me?
Problem is shipping. If you live in Sweden i could potentially make something up.
this video is priceless
What are the pros and cons of doing it like this? If you have ten packs of 14s11p or 14 packs of 110p. The BMS should be easier to do on the 110p. Is there any other advantages or disadvantages to doing it like this?
do you have a drawing for this layout?
No I dont. Its just a 14s11p :)
I get the setup. I was just wondering does it matter if some are upside down (-) and some are not (+) when in a parallel??? I normally have them all positive in one line and negative in the other parallel ..
All in same group is of course turned the same way around. Its a bit hard to wire otherwise. I have every 2nd string same way you could say. Easiest way to wire.
Thank you for all your replies! I wish i had a teacher in this like you =-)
ZyisDigital i try my best to help out :)
thanks for you demonstration
Weight?
Adam Ladd each cell weight is 44g. And 14×11 cells + couple of 100g for rest
Great thanks!
I am looking to build a similar battery, 14s 50Ah, 100Amp continous 250Amp Burst any tips?
Nice Video and clearly explained - jst a minor calculation thought..... You said you aimed to keep the 'normal' amps at less than 1amp/cell but worst case 3-4amps. The worst case amps would be 33-44amps then? The bus bar starts to be an issue at 32amps?
The bus bar is really not an issue. The bus bar can due to the short length and its in the open air handle twice that. 2.5mm2 is said to handle 16A continuously in closed installation. (Actually 20A) and can easily peak 40-50A over this short distances.
Note that i have a 30A blade fuse on the pack.
Hope that answers your question.
Thank you for this video, it was very helpful.
I like your content mate, very similar to mine, new subscriber from Aus! 🇦🇺🇦🇺
when you make your modules and use different brands what you have to take into account
Not sure I follow? You need to make the packs based on the lowest common part. So you dont over run any of the cells or parts