Thanks foillabs for sharing your knowlegde and passion about hydrodynamics and hydrofoils. Beside riding the windfoil i sort of enjoy refining my foils in the garden shed.... 😁 keep up the good work ! greetings from belgium
Finally found someone that pays attention to details! I have a MOSES HAVOK that kept ventilating / cavitating above 47 km/h, so I kept dressing the trailing edges on both the mast and the wings... finally got them below 0.5mm and achieved a marginal improvement (will never by MOSES again). As the edge was so thin and SHARP, I did have the misfortune to sustain a nasty cut on my leg during a crash @ 50 km/h. For the past 3 months I didn't maintain my foil at all, just freeride, but I really admire Your dedication. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback. We are still learning and much of what I show comes from good sources. I have just finished a 1000 race foil and it is way different. Very quiet but it has a sting.
Thanks Gary, for sharing with us how to improve the foils. One question, you take a lot of time on the trailing edges, I understand that is to reduce the turbulence and imperfections. But what I heard and in one of the videos you said too, is the first third of the blade is super important for the lift, even being this important I haven`t seen you working on the leading edge.
In the video the foil, I was working on needed most of the work done on the trailing edge. Yes, the 1st third is important. Using fairing blocks and hand techniques to achieve laminar flow across this part of the foil is key. Basically from the leading edge to the max cord thickness. High aspect foils require work to sometimes halfway across the section.
Great video thank you! One question: when doing to final fine sanding what is the best sanding movement? Small circles? Big circles? From leading edge to trailing edge? Or lateral from tip to tip? I saw diagonal too. What's the final movement? I am worried that with the wrong method the water might not 'hug' the wing surface properly.. Thanks!
Sir: Thank you for producing such an informative series of videos on foil repair and tuning. I used to enjoy tuning alpine skis at a shop -- and now that I wing foil (in a rocky environment 😵💫) I'm going to invest in proper repair equipment. May I ask, what is the make/model of your touch-up gun? Thanks again! Ed
Hi Gary, am I correct in understanding the last minute of the video where you talk about the sanding stages as you apply the Durepox, then sand at the finer grit, apply Durepox again, then sand at the next finer grit etc etc?
Thanks Gary for the great advice. I am following it to do some maintenance on my moses freeride foil and so far I am pretty pleased with how it is coming up. Question for you: What other product would you recommend for spraying other then the durepox? it seems pretty hard to get around here and impossible in small quantities. anything else a beginner could use?
Hi Massimiliano, a good question. The foil that you are working on I assume is composite and epoxy resin? Basically, you are wanting to seal the foil surface with a new boundary layer that is hard and can be finished to a smooth layer. A good two-pot Polyurathan clear coat is good. Where do you live?
Hi Massimlliano, yes the best products are those used in the marine coatings industry. You could go to a local marine shop and ask for a "2 pot polyurethane clear paint. You can buy these in smaller quantities.
Hi Gary, thanks for sharing! Do you have to make de final coat (durapox or 2 parts polyurethane) with pistol and compressor or you can make it by hand?
Thanks Gary, for the new material you advised - Durepox. I'll may be try. Good video. But two things... 1 - there is no high pressure (comparing to ambient water pressure) at lower surface of the profile you showed. May be on very low speeds and high AoA only. At normal speed and low AoA, it is low pressure there, just look at its curvature, it is just less low then on upper surface of the profile. 2. If you wanted to apply resin, why did you rub the surface with hand? Skin oils do not help adhesion.
For the thickener, why high density 404 and not something much softer like 407? I would think you'd want to make sanding those pitting fills easy to avoid messing up nearby enamel.
Hi Qibin, The principles are the same only with Kite Foils the blades are more high aspect ratio to achieve the low drag and higher speeds. I'll keep the suggestion in mind.
Thanks foillabs for sharing your knowlegde and passion about hydrodynamics and hydrofoils.
Beside riding the windfoil i sort of enjoy refining my foils in the garden shed.... 😁
keep up the good work !
greetings from belgium
Finally found someone that pays attention to details!
I have a MOSES HAVOK that kept ventilating / cavitating above 47 km/h, so I kept dressing the trailing edges on both the mast and the wings... finally got them below 0.5mm and achieved a marginal improvement (will never by MOSES again).
As the edge was so thin and SHARP, I did have the misfortune to sustain a nasty cut on my leg during a crash @ 50 km/h.
For the past 3 months I didn't maintain my foil at all, just freeride, but I really admire Your dedication.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your encouragement.
Thanks for the feedback. We are still learning and much of what I show comes from good sources. I have just finished a 1000 race foil and it is way different. Very quiet but it has a sting.
Thanks Gary, for sharing with us how to improve the foils. One question, you take a lot of time on the trailing edges, I understand that is to reduce the turbulence and imperfections. But what I heard and in one of the videos you said too, is the first third of the blade is super important for the lift, even being this important I haven`t seen you working on the leading edge.
In the video the foil, I was working on needed most of the work done on the trailing edge. Yes, the 1st third is important. Using fairing blocks and hand techniques to achieve laminar flow across this part of the foil is key. Basically from the leading edge to the max cord thickness. High aspect foils require work to sometimes halfway across the section.
Great video thank you! One question: when doing to final fine sanding what is the best sanding movement? Small circles? Big circles? From leading edge to trailing edge? Or lateral from tip to tip? I saw diagonal too. What's the final movement? I am worried that with the wrong method the water might not 'hug' the wing surface properly.. Thanks!
Sir: Thank you for producing such an informative series of videos on foil repair and tuning. I used to enjoy tuning alpine skis at a shop -- and now that I wing foil (in a rocky environment 😵💫) I'm going to invest in proper repair equipment. May I ask, what is the make/model of your touch-up gun? Thanks again! Ed
Hi And thanks for the support My gub is a Devilbis
Hi Gary, am I correct in understanding the last minute of the video where you talk about the sanding stages as you apply the Durepox, then sand at the finer grit, apply Durepox again, then sand at the next finer grit etc etc?
Thanks Gary for the great advice. I am following it to do some maintenance on my moses freeride foil and so far I am pretty pleased with how it is coming up. Question for you: What other product would you recommend for spraying other then the durepox? it seems pretty hard to get around here and impossible in small quantities. anything else a beginner could use?
Hi Massimiliano, a good question. The foil that you are working on I assume is composite and epoxy resin? Basically, you are wanting to seal the foil surface with a new boundary layer that is hard and can be finished to a smooth layer. A good two-pot Polyurathan clear coat is good. Where do you live?
@@foillabs1990 hi! Yes, carbon foil , sabfoil 790 freeride wing. I live in the USA
Hi Massimlliano, yes the best products are those used in the marine coatings industry. You could go to a local marine shop and ask for a "2 pot polyurethane clear paint. You can buy these in smaller quantities.
Hi Gary, thanks for sharing! Do you have to make de final coat (durapox or 2 parts polyurethane) with pistol and compressor or you can make it by hand?
Thanks Gary, for the new material you advised - Durepox. I'll may be try. Good video.
But two things...
1 - there is no high pressure (comparing to ambient water pressure) at lower surface of the profile you showed. May be on very low speeds and high AoA only. At normal speed and low AoA, it is low pressure there, just look at its curvature, it is just less low then on upper surface of the profile.
2. If you wanted to apply resin, why did you rub the surface with hand? Skin oils do not help adhesion.
For the thickener, why high density 404 and not something much softer like 407? I would think you'd want to make sanding those pitting fills easy to avoid messing up nearby enamel.
Good point. You have to be very careful of the surrounding surfaces. I do use sharp blades to shave excess off when the coat is still green.
Did I miss the video where you sprayed the foil?
Hi MrRod767,
I'll cover some of the basic methodology on this application next. Thanks for the question.
@@foillabs1990 great stuff.. I’ve sanded all my Starboard foil wings, following your advice
@@MrRod767 That's great, It's all about time and patience, but the rewards are worth it
hi, could you make a video of kite foil?
Hi Qibin, The principles are the same only with Kite Foils the blades are more high aspect ratio to achieve the low drag and higher speeds. I'll keep the suggestion in mind.