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FoilLabs
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2021
How to fix a broken batten
Under compression battens over time can collapse reducing your sails effectiveness.
This is a good way of fixing them.
This is a good way of fixing them.
มุมมอง: 696
วีดีโอ
Learn to put your sail numbers onto your sail.
มุมมอง 5762 ปีที่แล้ว
Some cool tips on applying sail numbers and stickers to your sail.
Repairing a tuttle box
มุมมอง 1.7K2 ปีที่แล้ว
How to repair a split tuttle box and or collapsed turtle head while maintaining the cosmetic finish of the top of your board.
Rocking in an Auckland Summer.
มุมมอง 3472 ปีที่แล้ว
NZ Squad training off North head Auckland Harbour.
Applying a carbon layer to the nose. Part 2
มุมมอง 1.4K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Part 2 Carbon and resin application.
Fixing cracks and protecting the noise of a WindFoil board.
มุมมอง 1.5K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Fixing and protecting the noise of a board with a single layer of carbon.
Bolts, Threads, and corrosion
มุมมอง 1.5K3 ปีที่แล้ว
The best way to avoid a catastrophic failure. Understanding why we need to keep our equipment washed cleaned and lubricated.
Kiwi foils flying. Thanks Nick Thomas for the video
มุมมอง 2953 ปีที่แล้ว
Spring foiling in on the Waitamata. A good downwind run.
How to repair chips on a foil
มุมมอง 15K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Gary explains how to repair a chip on either the leading or trailing edge of a foil.
Focusing on Tooling Techniques.
มุมมอง 1.1K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Gary Hill talks about how to use tools and techniques to craft a fair surface
Who is, and What is FoilLabs
มุมมอง 1.7K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Gary Hill explains a little history and the purpose of FoilLabs.
Protect your IQ Foil Assets
มุมมอง 3.3K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Need to know if you’re racing in the IQ Foil Class.
How to care for and finish a foil surface
มุมมอง 11K3 ปีที่แล้ว
How to care for and finish a foil surface
What does the durepox coating do? Is it just for protection due to its hardness or does it also help with wettability?
After fairing the duropox is to seal the carbon and provide a very hard boundary layer. It's important to build up a good layer.
I finish the Dropbox boundary layer to about 7000 - 10000 buffed.
Could you explain how to remove stickers from windsurf sails, pleaaaase
Hey Gary, love watching and learning from your videos. I am a Nacra17 sailor from Canada. We are starting to get to the point where we are putting a lot of time and effort into caring for our foils. I had a couple questions, and was wondering if there was a good way I could contact you, if you would be willing to help us out. Thanks!
Excellent
What is the brand name of the strong sailmakers double sided tape you use? In Australia, I can easily obtain Kikusui sailmakers double sided tape, but its very weak, but I can't find the tape you use. In the process of repairing many cracks in an IQFoil board. Masking tape doesn't particulary want to stick to the nonskid finish on the board. Thanks for sharing all this information.
Great video thank you! One question: when doing to final fine sanding what is the best sanding movement? Small circles? Big circles? From leading edge to trailing edge? Or lateral from tip to tip? I saw diagonal too. What's the final movement? I am worried that with the wrong method the water might not 'hug' the wing surface properly.. Thanks!
I got my iqfoil mast cracked near the top. Is there any way to send you a picture to know if it's something to be worried about? Thanks!
Thanks for the nice videos, could you do another video showing how to repair a bigger damage on the tips of the wing if small part is missing?
Great DIY footage! thank you. But i have a question do. Why dont you use a epoxy cement? Drilled holes in a layered composiite is detroying the layers. The shrink wrap is a top tip by the way!
Wingfoil
Thanks for all the information, i have been experiencing some cracking on my foil mast right below where it goes into the fin box.. any advice on how to fix it?
Hi Dayne, We have seen evidence of this also. Depending on the weight of the rider and how hard you load up the foil determines the durability of the manufacturing process. Without seeing a photo of the crack, I'm assuming it's the outer filler fairing that's cracked. The core carbon bar should be ok. I have repaired this by carefully machining a beveled edge v-shaped along the crack and then filled with a black epoxy bond.
Thanks foillabs for sharing your knowlegde and passion about hydrodynamics and hydrofoils. Beside riding the windfoil i sort of enjoy refining my foils in the garden shed.... 😁 keep up the good work ! greetings from belgium
Is any marine grease ok? My foil came with a 10g tube of Tef-Gel but it's crazy expensive!
Thank you very much, Gary! Can you post links (or the names) of the blades and all the other equipment in your Foil Lab? I'm in the USA, but if you provide the NZ brand I can probably find the US equivalent. Thank you sir! Ed
Hi Ed, The blades are Tajima Rock Hard LCB65 and come in a yellow case.
Sir: Thank you for producing such an informative series of videos on foil repair and tuning. I used to enjoy tuning alpine skis at a shop -- and now that I wing foil (in a rocky environment 😵💫) I'm going to invest in proper repair equipment. May I ask, what is the make/model of your touch-up gun? Thanks again! Ed
Hi And thanks for the support My gub is a Devilbis
Hey FoilLabs, just wondering, one of my friends uses acetone to clean his foils for a smoother and faster ride, just wondering if that is a good idea?
Hi Vlad, Acetone is a strong solvent that can remove small impurities and grease. It is very viscous and can travel up the fibres of bare carbon, therefore, promoting a breakdown of structure. I only use it to prepare a surface for a new finish. Best to just use warm water and detergent. Much faster.
Awesome videos! Thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge! I would love to see you finish with the durepox and your finishing process once the foil is true and perfected. I've not found much content on the last finishing process once all the imperfections are worked out. Thanks again for your videos!
Thanks very useful. I’ not sure I’ve understood (I speak french) the type of product you’ve used : is it epoxy glue ? Double composant ?
The product I use is produced by a new Zealand company called Adhesive Technologies NZ Ltd. It is a structural adhesive epoxy resin. 4to 1 mix. Brilliant for repairing scratches. Owner of the company is legend Grant Beck.
Hi Thierry, It is an epoxy glue
If fuse is scratched … how to fix?
Hi thanks for the question. You have used the words fused which infers that the fastenings are stuck together. For me to answer your question could you give me some more detail. Chat soon.
@@foillabs1990 Hello Gary, I have the same question, I think he means: What do you to if the anodized layer on the aluminum has worn off by scratching, sanding, etc. ? If it's down to bare aluminum? Can you leave it as is, or you repaint ?
🌺 𝖕𝖗𝖔𝖒𝖔𝖘𝖒
Thank you for the great videos. Can you post a photo of the failed box before repair? I keep a close eye on my box and often wonder what failure will look like.
Thanks Gary - I was interested in your comment about the direction of force on the box, with the mast pulling down at the back as the foil tries to pivot towards the bow. On my standard windsurfing boards I use a large stainless plate on the deck of my board which I bolt through (it's wider towards the stern) to the tuttle box (essentially huge washers). I have been told this is pointless, but I haven't had any problems so far and think it helps - what's your opinion?
Hi Bruce, Nice to hear from you. In a sense we have inherited construction history from the Formula Boards etc. As a result we continue to see the breakdown of this tuttle design as it was never intended to sustain such massive forces. We have also developed thicker metal plates to mitigate the issue and yes it does help as can spread the load. In the case of IQ we have to work within the class rules and this latest video I have observed a massive increase of carbon layers to make the whole design stronger. The ultimate solution would be to construct an internal framework that gave a skeletal frame to provide strength and rigidity from mast step, foot-straps and foil mast connection. Some of the WingFoil boards get it right but they are not under the same forces as a 100kg rider + 34kgs of kit traveling at 20 knots upwind canted and pushing all that force through a 16mm carbon mast and box cassette. I think we will see a completely new approach soon.
Hi Gary, thanks for the video. While this makes the immediate area of the new box very strong the only thing creating any longitudinal continuity through the length of the board is the glue between the new box and the structures surrounding it. Do the boards have any longitudinal stringers along each side of the original box - or integrated into the original lay and up running fore and aft through the box to take the the loads from the foil, rig and sailor to basically stop the board from cracking off at the front of the box insert or do they solely rely upon the upper and lower laminates of the deck and bottom? Cheers Ian
Thanks Ian, I think my comment above to Bruce deals with my thoughts on historical design concept and the need to completely rethink. Additional to the final strength of this solution if the final depth / thickness of the carbon head in which the mechanical bolts will hold the design firm from any movement. We will be increasing this thickness to at least 15-20mm thereby utilising the carbon walls of the original top section of the box. The IQ boards do not have any longitudinal stringer which would help to withstand the pivot force. Yes its needed.
How much allowance did you give for the glue, particularly where the box mates against the carbon bottom?
Hi Doug, The glue mix is quite runny allowing for it to squeeze and fill all the small voids. If you wanted to put a measurement to it it would be 500 microns ( very little to even notice. I make sure the foam porous surfaces are vacuumed and cleaned then sealed. I apply the glue to all surfaces. It is important to do a dry run to identify where the final box will sit. If it's high then something is not right.
Great video, I'm a new wind foiler and you give some great tips. Keep good work!
Hi Gary, am I correct in understanding the last minute of the video where you talk about the sanding stages as you apply the Durepox, then sand at the finer grit, apply Durepox again, then sand at the next finer grit etc etc?
Hey FoilLabs, great video, very informative! Do you have an example of the polyurethane paint you use for the tracer coat? I'm sure I can probably find something similar here in Aus to use.
Hi I generally use a polyurethane thinners with a paint tint. Just wiping it on with a piece of cheesecloth.
In the vids you are focussing on removing material from the trailing edge in particular. But at the end, are you rinsing down the whole foil area to make is faster, or only the trailing edge?
Hi Im effectively truing up the trailing edge to minimise drag but finishing with fine wet sand to create a smooth boundary layer
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and knowledge. It’s very helpful to improve my maintenance skills.
Happy to help!
Thanks Gary, for the new material you advised - Durepox. I'll may be try. Good video. But two things... 1 - there is no high pressure (comparing to ambient water pressure) at lower surface of the profile you showed. May be on very low speeds and high AoA only. At normal speed and low AoA, it is low pressure there, just look at its curvature, it is just less low then on upper surface of the profile. 2. If you wanted to apply resin, why did you rub the surface with hand? Skin oils do not help adhesion.
I would not scrape off the bottom side of the rear edge with the blade. One thing is removing just a build up of a finish (lacquer), and another is shaving off actual carbon body. By removing the body you effectively changed camber of the profile at rear edge. Which would be ok if you consciously wanted to modify the profile to reduce, lets say, inductive drag. And you understood that the price will be - reduced lift together with it. It is like you decreased angle of flaps on airplane. So, removing imperfections is one thing and modifying the existing profile is another. I do not think the second was your target. Then why you've done it?
Your comment is just, however if the manufacturing process produces a surface that can be vastly improved then the process only adds to stability and fast flight. In some cases to true up a trailing edge has required taking small amounts of carbon off. The whole finished wing is then finished with Durapox
Thanks from russian foilers comrade
Thanks for the channel! I am just getting acquainted with the world of foil, but I have already faced a small repair, thanks to enthusiasts!
Glad to help!
hi, could you make a video of kite foil?
Hi Qibin, The principles are the same only with Kite Foils the blades are more high aspect ratio to achieve the low drag and higher speeds. I'll keep the suggestion in mind.
Thanks Gary for the great advice. I am following it to do some maintenance on my moses freeride foil and so far I am pretty pleased with how it is coming up. Question for you: What other product would you recommend for spraying other then the durepox? it seems pretty hard to get around here and impossible in small quantities. anything else a beginner could use?
Hi Massimiliano, a good question. The foil that you are working on I assume is composite and epoxy resin? Basically, you are wanting to seal the foil surface with a new boundary layer that is hard and can be finished to a smooth layer. A good two-pot Polyurathan clear coat is good. Where do you live?
@@foillabs1990 hi! Yes, carbon foil , sabfoil 790 freeride wing. I live in the USA
Hi Massimlliano, yes the best products are those used in the marine coatings industry. You could go to a local marine shop and ask for a "2 pot polyurethane clear paint. You can buy these in smaller quantities.
Hi Gary, thanks for sharing! Do you have to make de final coat (durapox or 2 parts polyurethane) with pistol and compressor or you can make it by hand?
For the thickener, why high density 404 and not something much softer like 407? I would think you'd want to make sanding those pitting fills easy to avoid messing up nearby enamel.
Good point. You have to be very careful of the surrounding surfaces. I do use sharp blades to shave excess off when the coat is still green.
What a fantastic video!!! In your opinion would fresh versus salt water benefits of a lower grit or higher when compared with salt water ? Thank you very much.
Hi as fresh water is denser there seems to be common approach to using courser grit. A colder water temperature also applies here.
@@foillabs1990 thank you very much. What grit levels would you consider ? 1000-3000?
Given the West epoxy system isn’t uv stable, it will need a top coating for longevity.
Thanks for the great video, which is helpful for me. There are a number of different epoxy’s available on the market. Which product would you recommend?
I use a product produced by Adhesive Technologies here in New Zealand.
Really neat work. Is that only one layer of carbon?
Yes only one layer is required. Weight is important and adding too much to the bow changes the C/G centre of gravity and dynamics.
Most boards are around 11kg and if you were to measure the weights of and C/G if a number they are reasonably accurate but do vary.
Thanks for sharing. Can you show how you do the next steps?
Part 3 has been uploaded. Thanks for watching.
What are the specs on carbon fabric I should use if repairing a Liftfoils wing? Thx
Thanks for that Gary, I'm a kite and wing foiler here in Queensland. I find your channel very interesting, it's good to know there is a place I can go if I need to learn about repairs and tuning.
Welcome aboard! and thanks for your encouragement Grant
Hi I have a question about the trailing edge of carbon hydrofoil masts. I've noticed on my 2016 lift and now on my 2021 Slingshot Phantasm that over time small Knicks and chips develop. I protect my gear with a padded mast cover all the time and I haven't damaged them at all. Is this a thing you are aware of? Do you have a clip on how to sand/fill/ repair. Cheers Grant
Hi Grant, This is an interesting question as like you all of us in the NZ class buy covers and protect our foils as best we can. I'll poss a theory that foils that are well used develop ware on the leading edge from water friction. So in effect the boundary finished fro the factory has been worn off. Sort of like the rocks in a fast flowing river. Once gone you can observe small pitting as the fibre weave is exposed. Best remedy is to fine wet sand and spay a coat of DuraPox. Then finish with a wet sand to reestablish a smooth boundary layer. Hope this helps.
I find I get chips in the mast from hitting small sticks and seaweed (with attached stones). It's sadly part of the game
What do you spray the foil with ?
Clear Duropox, which is what Team New Zealand use. It's a NZ product made by Resine Paints. A two pot Urethane which cures to a very hard surface.
Finally found someone that pays attention to details! I have a MOSES HAVOK that kept ventilating / cavitating above 47 km/h, so I kept dressing the trailing edges on both the mast and the wings... finally got them below 0.5mm and achieved a marginal improvement (will never by MOSES again). As the edge was so thin and SHARP, I did have the misfortune to sustain a nasty cut on my leg during a crash @ 50 km/h. For the past 3 months I didn't maintain my foil at all, just freeride, but I really admire Your dedication. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your encouragement.
Thanks for the feedback. We are still learning and much of what I show comes from good sources. I have just finished a 1000 race foil and it is way different. Very quiet but it has a sting.
Hi Gary. You do an excellent job of technical guidance, congratulations!
Many thanks!
Really great content! I have some questions and was wondering how I could get in touch....
Hi, You can email me at foillabsnz@gmail.com
Thanks Gary, for sharing with us how to improve the foils. One question, you take a lot of time on the trailing edges, I understand that is to reduce the turbulence and imperfections. But what I heard and in one of the videos you said too, is the first third of the blade is super important for the lift, even being this important I haven`t seen you working on the leading edge.
In the video the foil, I was working on needed most of the work done on the trailing edge. Yes, the 1st third is important. Using fairing blocks and hand techniques to achieve laminar flow across this part of the foil is key. Basically from the leading edge to the max cord thickness. High aspect foils require work to sometimes halfway across the section.
Thx Gary. Great video!
Thanks David for your support
You now have sharp blade after tooling. What about safety? Anyway thank you for sharing the technique.
Thanks David, Yes your comment is relevant. Our NZ class rules require foilers to ware helmets, and buoyancy vests. Damage to your legs and feet are at risk when you have fallen off, and you kick the foil with your foot or shin when recovering. I always ware a long john wetsuit with shin protection. Some riders ware booties for this reason. It's good to be safety conscience and as coaches we constantly are reminding new riders of the dangers and precautions.