Thanks Dave! I'm not sure I've made my last hand drawn FeCl3 etched board, these are the best way to prototype and there is no tuirnaround delay. Anyway the more options the better, and these CAD PCBs are beautiful!
Hi Catherine, many thanks for commenting, yes I was very pleased, as a first time designers and JLCPCB user. I have 3 or 4 more boards in preparation and videos of these will make it to TH-cam in time. Best regards Paul VK3HN.
Yes I was half expecting to bin this first batch of five PCBs due to mismatched parts with wrong footprints or holes too small. But apart from the missing corner hole pads, the board was a success, and worked first time. The next board will be populated with all the s.m. components, looking forward to that one arriving!
Sure, TL598 is an updated TL494 which should work fine in this circuit. They are probably not pin compatible so you might have to make some minor changes.
@kittony71 Time is limited at the moment, I suggest you study some TL494 SMPS circuits, read the datasheet, watch some videos and try it yourself. Doing it yourself is the best way to learn.
The artist (and anarchist) in me loves the homebrew, draw it yourself boards. But for more "professional" prototypes etc could be fun to do it "properly". Also allows a QRP build to be miniaturised via SMD components. Thanks for this video. 73 VK2AOE.
Hi there, yes I agree, you cannot beat a CAD PCB for miniaturization. I started doing PCB designs and offshore fabrication, including some parts, in 2021, and the results, and the value for money are amazing. I will still hand-make boards from time to time, but only for prototyping. You can still patch and change a design on a home made board, very difficult to change things on a CAD PCB. Thanks for commenting. Good luck with your projects! 73 Paul VK3HN.
JLCPCB does a decent job, as does PCBWay. OSH Park is more expensive, but the quality is better and IIRC the delivery is faster. BTW you don't have to convert your projects to EasyEDA. All these services accept Gerber files which can be generated with KiCAD.
Thanks Alex, yes I had realised that Gerber is interchangeable, which is handy, so you can use your favourite editor and then get the boards made from your preferred fabricator in the marketplace. I have some more PCBs in the factory so, more soon. 73 Paul VK3HN.
5:24 man, now they make hardware too??? What DOESN'T 3M make nowadays?! 😁Been enjoying the videos, keep me dreaming! I've got a couple BIG Pioneer home stereo receivers/amps a mate gave me as "scrap" to play with and I'm certain there's a good deal of bits I can salvage like some MASSIVE MOSFET's, toroid's, surface mounts and lovely knobs I might be able to use for tuning a VFO/VXO ETC to play with!
Thanks for the comments. The reference you pointed out to 3M was my mistake, I was being slightly dyslexic, I meant M3 or standard metric 3mm bolts and nuts. Sorry about that. These little inaccuracies sometimes creep in and I don't always bother to correct them, this channel is a hobby, about a hobby, so we do what we can. Good luck with sourcing parts from old products, I've stripped down home stereo amps, particularly the powered bass woofers that people used for 5.1 surround sound. The older analog ones yield some very good parts, toroidal power transformers, big electrolytic caps, greencaps, rectifiers, connectors, fuse holders and more.
FB, Paul. Completely random question. I'm looking for a bench power supply to replace me current solution consisting of batteries for powering my scratch built circuits. Been advised to find a dual channel version, but I'm not crazy about the large footprint. Any thoughts on the single channel supply that you use? Thanks, Jack, NG2E
My power supply is one of a number of commonly available 0..30V, 0..5A supplies. They are all over Banggood and Amazon and eBay. They are Chinese made (of course) mine was around $100. They are indispensible. Being able to preset or wind the output voltage up and down is essential when making projects, as is setting current limiting, which has saved my QRP Finals, PAs, drivers, and other modules from unintended wiring faults, excess drive and shorted loads. I have fixed 13.8v 5A supplies but only use them on a commercial or fully tested homebrew rig. The inbuilt digital ammeter has replaced my need to use a separate bench meter or multimeter to measure current. For example, if you want to check out a relay, LED or any other small load, just dial up the voltage and connect it to your PSU, you will read its current draw off the display. If you are doing anything at all with electronics, even charging LiPOs, grab one of these! 73 and thanks again for commenting Jack.
@@jackhaefner9237 I use a regular Weller WES51 soldering iron with small 1.6mm tip and thin solder. I look through an illuminated magnifier and position s.m. parts with tweezers bought from Minikits. Solderwick mops up if there's too much solder on a pad or IC pins. It's not hard! Good luck!
@@Paul_VK3HN , thanks! Etching a the mixer board for Pete J's Direct Conversion Receiver tonight. My MC1496 is SMD, so I'll get getting right to it! Cheers, Jack
Good for you Paul. No stopping you now. Go you won't go back.
Thanks Dave! I'm not sure I've made my last hand drawn FeCl3 etched board, these are the best way to prototype and there is no tuirnaround delay. Anyway the more options the better, and these CAD PCBs are beautiful!
That looks great,and glad to know that our service made you satisfied~
Hi Catherine, many thanks for commenting, yes I was very pleased, as a first time designers and JLCPCB user. I have 3 or 4 more boards in preparation and videos of these will make it to TH-cam in time. Best regards Paul VK3HN.
@@Paul_VK3HN Can not wait for your next projects~ Keep Going~
Off to a great start Paul! The layout issues you identified were minor and didn't prevent the board from functioning - that's a win! 73
Yes I was half expecting to bin this first batch of five PCBs due to mismatched parts with wrong footprints or holes too small. But apart from the missing corner hole pads, the board was a success, and worked first time. The next board will be populated with all the s.m. components, looking forward to that one arriving!
nice project can is use tl494 instead tl 598 in this project
Sure, TL598 is an updated TL494 which should work fine in this circuit. They are probably not pin compatible so you might have to make some minor changes.
@@Paul_VK3HN thanks alot i like your videos an the projects you do would you please design this with t494 since tl 494 is most available my request
@kittony71 Time is limited at the moment, I suggest you study some TL494 SMPS circuits, read the datasheet, watch some videos and try it yourself. Doing it yourself is the best way to learn.
@@Paul_VK3HN thanks am working on it right now
I still thought the pbc board was suburb ,well done there. 73's
Thanks Doc, they do look great don't they, how do they do it for the price???
Hard to beat Kicad, works with most OS's, great community support, and it's free
Thanks for commenting, I've used Kicad for schematics but have not yet layed out a PCB with it, so will try that one day.
The artist (and anarchist) in me loves the homebrew, draw it yourself boards. But for more "professional" prototypes etc could be fun to do it "properly". Also allows a QRP build to be miniaturised via SMD components. Thanks for this video. 73 VK2AOE.
Hi there, yes I agree, you cannot beat a CAD PCB for miniaturization. I started doing PCB designs and offshore fabrication, including some parts, in 2021, and the results, and the value for money are amazing. I will still hand-make boards from time to time, but only for prototyping. You can still patch and change a design on a home made board, very difficult to change things on a CAD PCB. Thanks for commenting. Good luck with your projects! 73 Paul VK3HN.
JLCPCB does a decent job, as does PCBWay. OSH Park is more expensive, but the quality is better and IIRC the delivery is faster. BTW you don't have to convert your projects to EasyEDA. All these services accept Gerber files which can be generated with KiCAD.
Thanks Alex, yes I had realised that Gerber is interchangeable, which is handy, so you can use your favourite editor and then get the boards made from your preferred fabricator in the marketplace. I have some more PCBs in the factory so, more soon. 73 Paul VK3HN.
Muy bueno Paul. 👍 73.
😉 73!
5:24 man, now they make hardware too??? What DOESN'T 3M make nowadays?! 😁Been enjoying the videos, keep me dreaming! I've got a couple BIG Pioneer home stereo receivers/amps a mate gave me as "scrap" to play with and I'm certain there's a good deal of bits I can salvage like some MASSIVE MOSFET's, toroid's, surface mounts and lovely knobs I might be able to use for tuning a VFO/VXO ETC to play with!
Thanks for the comments. The reference you pointed out to 3M was my mistake, I was being slightly dyslexic, I meant M3 or standard metric 3mm bolts and nuts. Sorry about that. These little inaccuracies sometimes creep in and I don't always bother to correct them, this channel is a hobby, about a hobby, so we do what we can.
Good luck with sourcing parts from old products, I've stripped down home stereo amps, particularly the powered bass woofers that people used for 5.1 surround sound. The older analog ones yield some very good parts, toroidal power transformers, big electrolytic caps, greencaps, rectifiers, connectors, fuse holders and more.
@@Paul_VK3HN all good, I'm mildly "lysdexic" at times too, especially when I'm tired!
Congrats on feeling the fear Paul. I know I need to as well ... but still too chicken.
You said it Neville. When the time is right, you will step into the abyss ... just have a bit of time up your sleeve.
FB, Paul. Completely random question. I'm looking for a bench power supply to replace me current solution consisting of batteries for powering my scratch built circuits. Been advised to find a dual channel version, but I'm not crazy about the large footprint. Any thoughts on the single channel supply that you use? Thanks, Jack, NG2E
My power supply is one of a number of commonly available 0..30V, 0..5A supplies. They are all over Banggood and Amazon and eBay. They are Chinese made (of course) mine was around $100. They are indispensible. Being able to preset or wind the output voltage up and down is essential when making projects, as is setting current limiting, which has saved my QRP Finals, PAs, drivers, and other modules from unintended wiring faults, excess drive and shorted loads. I have fixed 13.8v 5A supplies but only use them on a commercial or fully tested homebrew rig. The inbuilt digital ammeter has replaced my need to use a separate bench meter or multimeter to measure current. For example, if you want to check out a relay, LED or any other small load, just dial up the voltage and connect it to your PSU, you will read its current draw off the display. If you are doing anything at all with electronics, even charging LiPOs, grab one of these! 73 and thanks again for commenting Jack.
FB, Paul. Thanks as always.
@@Paul_VK3HN , last question. For your SMD parts which method do you use: solder or use paste?
@@jackhaefner9237 I use a regular Weller WES51 soldering iron with small 1.6mm tip and thin solder. I look through an illuminated magnifier and position s.m. parts with tweezers bought from Minikits. Solderwick mops up if there's too much solder on a pad or IC pins. It's not hard! Good luck!
@@Paul_VK3HN , thanks! Etching a the mixer board for Pete J's Direct Conversion Receiver tonight. My MC1496 is SMD, so I'll get getting right to it! Cheers, Jack
Hi Paul nice work,some day try with kicad also good pcb design tool and free...73 Dinos.
Thanks Dinos, I have used kicad for schematics but have not taken it further into PCB design. One day I hope...