1995+ GM SPS2 Programming Battery Power Supply Tool Module Flashing - Unboxing PowerMax PMBC Charger
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video we introduce technical service information from GM around their recommendations for battery power supplies during use of the Service Programming System (SPS and SPS2) with the Tech2 or MDI or MDI2 scan tools. This would apply to either TIS2000 or the modern Techline Connect system on www.acdelcotds.com. When reflashing modules with new calibrations use of the GM EL-49642 SPS Programming Tool, or equivalent, is strongly recommended. In this video we unbox a lower cost alternative in the PowerMax PMBC series module reprogramming power supply chargers.
The actual GM EL-49642 is supplied by Midtronics as their PSC-550S Power Charge tool. Besides GM, Jaguar Audi and Volvo also recommend this same tool as a module reprogramming power supply. Having such power supply type chargers, like the PowerMax PMBC, are required when re-flashing vehicle modules (unless you supply an alternative such as a second battery). Traditional battery chargers are not suitable to this role, as they lack both the amperage and voltage specifications to prevent programming interruptions during SPS2.
The eBay and Amazon search links below are paid links, for which I may be compensated and earn a commission, if you choose to buy the parts and tools shown in this video thru them:
If you are interested in an used Midtronics PSC-550S (GM EL-49642) or PSC-700: ebay.us/IU6amH
But I recommend the PowerMax PMBC (the 55LK or 75LK) as a lower cost alternative: ebay.us/yMGV65 and amzn.to/3gL5i1t
If I've saved you some $$ here, consider some coins for the coffee tip-jar! ko-fi.com/drshock
1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
Chevrolet Cadillac Buick Pontiac GMC Oldsmobile Saturn Hummer Holden SaaB Opel Vauxhall
PMBC-55 PMBC-75 PMBC-100 PMBC-55LK PMBC-75LK PMBC-100LK
Chapters:
0:00 - Midtronics PSC overview
3:37 - PowerMax PMBC Overview
4:06 - Features Comparison
4:54 - Unboxing PowerMax PMBC-75 ADJ
6:50 - Cable Assembly
8:24 - Voltage Adjustment
9:20 - Voltage Checks
#drshock #acdelcotds #tis2000 #tis2web
Disclaimer: DrShock, the alias for the human content creator for this TH-cam channel, is not responsible for any damages, injuries, losses, or liabilities associated with any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance performed on yours, or any other, vehicle whatsoever. No warranty, express or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of any information provided within this channel. Viewing and using the “as-is" information of this channel is totally at your own risk. Always wear personal protection equipment and follow appropriate vehicle manufacturer service manual guidelines with original manufacturer parts only when performing any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance upon any vehicle. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I went with the PL6100 Chlore I love it, also has 20,40 & 60 amp battery charger as well as 35mm dinse connection for removable leads and also has a fully digital display. You do need a 20a plug but I’m not mobile so it’s great for me. I wanted to have the charging capability as well as 100amp power supply. I paid $400 néw for it. The pl6800 has 100 amp power and charging. I looked into the powemax to be just looks cheap like a computer power supply that cost too much. The fit and finish isn’t great vs the Chlore. Thanks for sharing great video
@Welding Junkie Do you think the 60 amp is fine for flashing "mostly gm and ford" or should I spring a little extra for the 100 amp model?
@@JLSR-vg9ol Can anyone help with this, since I dont understand how many amps are actually needed, I need the PMBC for just car flash programming for potentially all car brands (ECM/UCH matching/initializing), from what I understand 60AMP is more than enough, I was even thinking of getting the 55W, -in what scenario the 75 or 100 will be reached?
Edit: I spoke with Autel about it (makers of the MaxiFlash tool) and they said 55 is fine, still need clearance though, dont want to buy something i'd regret.
@@SpringvisualTk GM recommends that Midtronics unit I mention in the vid, which is also 55A. Jaguar and Volvo as well. But they also approve the 70A model. So for that range of recommendations, that's why I went with the 75A PowerMax unit. Their PMBC 75 ADJ is comparable to the high range of the Midtronics recommendation, the PSC-700. I can't imagine ever needing more amps than that thru and including the upcoming 2022 model year. But I don't work on anything but GM vehicles. Hope that helps.
Is PL6100 mobile unit?
Best review video so far.
I have been looking and trying to decide to save money.
Is this enough Amp, or I need 100 Amp for BMW and Mercedes programming to be safe?
Thanks, I only work on domestics where this 75A PowerMax is more than sufficient being more amps than either of the Midtronics units the GM dealerships would have gone with. But I'd say get all the amps you can afford, you can always have too much but never not enough. ;-)
i just got this same model, do you move switch A to adjust V then back to set and maintain?? think that's how i'm reading it .
I didn't have to adjust mine, but according to the manual included yeah you move switch A to _Adjust Fixed Voltage_ and then move switch B _gently_ adjust the voltage from 13V~16.5V. There's also a procedure for three stage charging around these same switches.
@@DrShock yep checked it , was 14.8 works like a champ
Tips and other stuff:
1) The battery clamp cable looks to be copper stranded class K 25.0 mm^2 (4 AWG) if so you can use a Ferrule to keep the strands from splaying with the screw pinch connector in making the screw connection. But you would need a Ferrule crimper. This is handy in making a robust screw clamp pressure connection (which for this large wire technically the screw should be torqued) and also if you have to disconnect/reconnect the cables (handy when replacing the clamps when the originals wear out). I usually have a spare clamp set available in case a clamp gives up in some way. I then rebuild it at a later date.
2) The PowerMax manual states to disconnect the battery before connecting the unit to the vehicle? Well what if the battery is buried in the trunk like on a Cadillac ATS?
3) The PowerMax manual states that the three stage battery charge is optional?
4) The problem I have with both the Midtronics PSC series and PowerMax is reverse battery protection results in blowing a fuse. Higher end battery chargers will alert (indicator) to reverse battery condition without blowing a fuse or damaging the unit. You just have to reverse the leads and continue.
5) It is clear that if you want an accurate vehicle system voltage measurement is to do it on the vehicle side and not the power supply side, given the 12 foot long cables and the high rated currents.
6) No mention about how to deal with inaccessible batteries found in the trunk. Usually this means using the jump start posts and obviously the battery is still connected. In using jump start posts you must be very careful not to overvoltage the vehicle at high currents. This is where the battery chargers usually try and do CC modes and the voltage can surpass 15V at the posts. Also, many smart chargers cannot diagnose accurately the battery condition through the jump start posts and may just lock you out if you cannot override. Which is why the manual modes (power supply modes) of regulated voltage are provided.
7) What would be more helpful is a current meter which could accurately measure up to the full range of the supply. However, an accurate current shunt alone would probably cost more than the PMBC charger.
8) The PowerMax unit looks like an extended PC 12V switcher with a voltage adjust pot, voltmeter and extra fuses. The stickers are not even quality controlled.
9) The PowerMax manual states to not leave the unit unattended. I leave my battery chargers "unattended", that is not being continually watched, for hours at a time. A lead-acid topping charge may take 8 hours to complete. If all you are doing is reflashing a vehicle then I guess you could continually watch the unit attended. However, charging a battery fully in three stages as shown in the PowerMax manual can take up to 12 hours or longer from 50% SOC.
10) It is hard to tell from the video but the PowerMax cable clamps should have a tinned flat braid strap (1 inch wide with 2 in parallel) between the jaws for anything greater than 50 Amps so both jaws are supplying current. You will see straped jaws on fleet chargers rated for 60 Amps and above. Many will use intinned flat copper braid but may have protective heatsrink over it.
Is 14.7 kind of high for the voltage setting? Even the GM docs said to use 13.4 ?
Varies with the vehicles alternator. Some do output over 14
What Voltage do you leave it on for GM Programming? 14.4 or 13.4? Also is that on the Fixed voltage setting?
Fixed voltage for GM vehicles, at the default setting. Puts it in the range of the average alternator charging voltage.
@@DrShock Ok thanks. So just switch it to Fixed voltage and do not do any adjustment
Could you please show how you charge a deep circle battery with it?
This is *not* a battery _charger_ tool. It's a battery _maintainer_ that is only used for maintaining clean backup power voltage and amperage when re-programming vehicle computer modules.
Hi 🙋🏽♂️ good morning ☀️ Dr. Shock can you please please make a tutorial video on how to remove rotted Seized body bolts for 88-98 Chevy k1500’s. I have the sagging bed and cabin and I can’t remove one of my cabin bolts drivers side. No one on TH-cam here seems to show the real process or so called hack. Thank you in advance - one of your subscribers and fans!
Have you tried the VCX Nano?
Familiar with it, but have great clones of the Tech2 and MDI already.
@@DrShock I'm interested in a reliable MDI clone for my tech2 era vehicle. Can you recommend a good vendor?
@@executive I can't recommend a particular vendor as these are all no name imports from China and the sellers on eBay and Amazon come and go. But I did a review here th-cam.com/video/pZfXuuzORZo/w-d-xo.html on what I use, and I have a pair of them and they are 100% identical in functionality to the GM ones built by Bosch. Just look for the cosmetic details, and most important the double decker circuit board design inside (most sellers will show pics of this) with WiFi and Ethernet jack support. The ones without Wifi capability and this network jack connection (the USB only ones) are cheaper, but very inferior. It doesn't matter about the HDD (hard disk drive) option some offer as that's just a hacked version of the GM GDS2 diagnostic program and Tech2Win emulator running in in a virtual machine player for Windows. Mostly what these MDIs are for is SPS programming and you have to pay for that at www.acdelcotds.com still.
@@DrShock Thanks.
I'm in the process of setting up my vcx nano. I tried programming once but it failed before it even started, but I didn't have any type of power supply connected. You can configure the vcx nano many different ways. It's gonna take a lot of patience setting it up. Be sure to put it on a computer with a fresh Windows installation, and you have to spend a lot of time with the settings in Windows like disabling windows defender and antivirus software. It really is quite the pain in the end and I'm just guessing but it will likely continue to be a pain in the butt because you have to update it every 60 days to keep the license current, and of course every update will probably screw something up and cause it to not communicate properly. I'm still glad to have it. I had plenty of time to kill. Just waiting to get my power supply (and finish hunting down an electrical issue I found while digging around in the guts of my truck with the nano), and i should be programming in no time.
These screw terminals is so dumb installation. If inside is space, install welder terminals. They make that type small too. Way easier cable management and cost only about 6eur