That, and the walking foot would aid greatly in pulling the work through in a straight line. That machine just doesn't have enough pulling power without the walking foot. Your mom tried to help but was wrong this time. You can't skate with dull skates unless someone pulls you, and that's what the walking foot does.
You did well given the type of sewing machine you were using. Sail makers use sewing machines that have a roller or puller that pulls the sail cloth through straight. There is also a smaller puller just behind the needle which is synchronized with the larger puller. By having two pullers it increases the pivot point area therefore making it much easier to sew a straight line. Also sail makers sewing machines sew seams at a very fast rate which makes sewing lines straight easier. Your sew lines got straighter with experience. After sewing for a long time, you will find your mind wandering or thinking about the next step. You were one of the first sailing You Tubers, great job.
This two-parter has been very interesting to me. I want, and feel like I need, to learn to sew to be as self-sufficient as reasonably possible on my own boat. Thanks!
I think being able to sew with your own sewing machine is great, but I also think that knowing how to sew by hand is a great apocalypse skill, which makes it pretty bad ass in my book. :) - Drake
Like a lot of projects…the last step is usually perfect. Fun watching. I used my household machine to create a sail pack. It took some work to get the tension and stitches working the way I wanted but it worked. Looks like your sail is going to hold for as long as u have the sail.
someone's been having fun in editing. Been attempting to sew a seat cover for one of my motorcycle seats. a machine not made for large thick fabrics/vinyl/leather, might well punch through, but the tight confines can make it really hard to stay straight.
There are also special needles available for stitching thick and multi layors. These have a sharp triangle shape tip. They dont puncture trough but cut the fabric.
Such leather point needles are not recommended to be used on woven fabrics, because in cuts the threads in fabric and makes decreases its strengt. You use such needles for leather, because you can get too high friction between needle and leather if you don't.
I knew you could do it...or at least I thought you had a 95% chance. It worked on our Catalina 30 sail for an almost identical repair. I did see you picked up the Schmetz leather needles like I suggested. They really make all the difference for the heavy stuff. Though I know you have to go with your mother's suggestion with the foot, most sail repair shops all seem to run a complex walking foot. That is also what we used and it held everything down for a second and sewing it, then letting the material move. You could certainly do a lot better by yourself if you were sitting at a sewing table for this task, instead of kneeling over the unit. Good show regardless.Though my wife and I also tag teamed our repair too; just to keep the sail manageable.
Found these videos while researching the 4411 for sewing camping gear. My suggestion is to test sew more samples to refine settings, stabilize your machine so it doesn’t move, keep the sail from binding and bunching on itself and surrounding, and slow down, let the machine do its thing, don’t fight the machine and sail. Thanks for posting these. I’ll learn from your experiences
I've seen the lady in the Sailrite videos use Super 77 adhesive spray instead of tape. When I sew I start off a bit slower and pick up speed as I get better control and it seems to help me get straighter stitches. Was a tip from a quilter friend. I haven't tried sails yet though, so it could be harder to go slower. Thank you for the video! You've inspired me to go ahead and tackle a project I've been avoiding and see what happens!
Thank you! I wish our Singer Heavy Duty sewing machine could sew slower. It's really fast, but it's can be challenging to get it to sew slowly, especially at the beginning of stitch. I even took the pedal apart and to adjust the speed to get it to go slower, but I think it's still too fast. Good luck with your next project! :) - Drake
Married an American lady expecting her to know how to sew, did you? 😂 Wait 'til she takes you to the cleaners and shows you her excellent housekeeping skills (ie, keeps YOUR house) 😢
I watched your first video then I bought a sailrite. For what you are sewing both machines can do the job. The advantage on my sailrite is I could go slower. As a beginner learning how to sew has it's up's and down's but doing it makes us better at it. I enjoy your video.
Really enjoyed this methodical follow up and I would consider that a successful outcome. As with so much in life, assessing how far up the quality (and expense) ladder you need to go for your purposes can take consideration and wisdom but I think you've chosen well and have a great bang for your buck machine that does what you need of it.
I think you did a good job there considering it was your first attempt. I actually worked as a sailmaker for a few years in my youth (which was a VERY long time ago). and I'd say the Singer performed quite well. A walking foot is not a necessity for making or repairing sails in my experience although it is nice to have. I've made and repaired many, many sails using the standard metal presser foot.
Stoked to have come across this. We have the same Singer, and I'm just getting set to redo the UV strip on my genoa. Hopefully your tips serve me well!
I watched the video with the teflon presser foot and seeing the sail material moving around and producing a less desirable stitch pattern. No disrespect to your mom but I have you tried the walking foot on same Singer 4411? Results?
See I'm old and you refreshed a memory of about 40 years ago when I was young . My nextdoor neighbor was a retired singer sewing machine mechanic my garage was full of car stuff his was full of old restored singer sewing machines from the first model industrial to the 1960s or 70s it was like a museum.. he said that a good singer tuned properly could sew leather and I have seen on TH-cam asian feather jacket makers using old home model machines sewing leather jackets. The gearing is strong enough in the old machines . I bet the more modern machines would have issues with nylon gears stripping etc. So I'm thinking get your machine to a old sewing machine mechanic have him tune it and advise you on durability for your needs $1-200 to know and have toys running like a super stock sewing machine will save a lot over a new sailright machine. I have always thought the distance between the needle and base where the motor is was the important thing but sailright machines appear to be the same as yours or close enough anyway happy sails.
I bought a Singer Heavy duty to try to fix my sprayhood that was falling apart. I had the same problem as you had. It worked just fine when sawing common fabric but I couldn't fix the sprayhood at all. I gave up. Now I know what I can do to remedy the problem :)
seems the main issue is the mass and weight of the sail on the left tends to make the cloth go in a curve or circular path instead of straight. Maybe a portable bag sewing machine could help.
Nice one Drake, I have a heavy duty industrial Singer in my workshop and it’s not easy even then despite the large motor. I also have a Husqvana which I like as it has a low gear so you get lots of power at a slower speed. I think that’s why some machines are difficult to use as you need the speed to get through tough fabric and it is hard to control. The Husqvarna is easier to control. In fact when I bought it second hand for £30 I also joined those groups and chatted with Davie a lot, he has been a mine of help and information. Look forward to seeing you meet with him, that will be a great video I’m sure. Best of luck, Andy UK
Thanks! Here are the threads I used. - www.ebay.com/itm/223916011083 - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06Y5YJFG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 They both seem to be about the same.
Another very watchable and useful video. Thanks. Could you give a demonstration of the walking presser foot on sail material? What thread tension setting did you use? I have used a sewing machine needle for leather hoping it will be useful for thicker materials. My thoughts on your machine are if it works keep using it and it gives you a range of stitches for other jobs.
This is awesome! Thanks for this video! I’ve been trying to figure out whether or not this machine could get me started with making cushion covers and sail covers for my 28’ sailboat. Have any opinions on this since making this video?
I think you could make canvas cushion and sail covers with the Singer machine, as long as you’re not going to be sewing through too many layers at a time. For sure, the Sailrite sewing machine would be better though. We’ve got a video on the Sailrite machine too if you haven’t seen it.
99% ... the only trouble I had was with piping ... i'd suggest you get the adapter if ya really want piping on canvas back vinyl. Like the stuff popular in the 50's 60's 70's
It really is a practice thing. As you seem to have gathered for the later runs, controlling the speed is crucial. Don't go faster than you can control. And having someone helping when the item is bulky, like a sail, is a good thing. Am I an expert? No way!!! lol
Before going out and spending a fortune on a Sailrite machine look for any 80's sewing machine like a Jean Machine etc. These units have steel gearing and have larger motors to push through thicker material. Since nobody sews anymore these machines go for $50 or less and I have had years of boat use with them. A lot of them have motors that can be swapped out for 12 volt motors however we just use an inverter. The build quality of 1970 and 1980 sewing machines is also better and with proper timing and lubrication will last for years and not take money away from the cruising cash. A magnetic guide from sailrite will help to keep things a little straighter and thread lubrication will help with lots pf materials as well. Basking tape makes sewing fabrics a lot easier and sometimes better then pins. Great video
Thank you. I think you might find this video interesting. In it, Davie in Shetland shows us all of his wonderful old sewing machines. Some very capable, and classy machines. They don’t make them like they used to! 😊This Sailor Saves Sewing Machines - Sew Far North th-cam.com/video/EtRE3Ysu4_A/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for showing this. I was not aware, that this modern Singer is able to sew V92 (Tex 90) thread. However when I see stitch quality is not in order. It is not balanced and got loops below. So you need to use higher needle thread tension, and it may not be possible. The other problem I see is that you sew way too fast in order to control what is going on. And I think it is because this machine do not have ability to sew slow, controlled and heavy duty at the same time. So you need to go fast in order to sew at all. Perhaps some test sewing (not in final product) and playing with thread types, needles and thread tension could make things work better, but I doubt. I think this is over the limit for this sewing machine. If you look at vintage household sewing machines, some of the Husqvarna Viking machines can do this, because they got a low gear. Cheap alternatives is to make some modifications to sewing machines like a Singer 237 or a Pfaff 130.
Thanks! Yes, we were really pushing the Singer Heavy duty to its limits on this. The canvas patch material was the thickest and toughest available, and the machine could barely work with it at all. I have since used the machine to sew patches on our other sail, which is made of lighter material, and it worked perfectly. Please check out our latest video, an interview with Davie Meddes in Shetland. He repairs all sewing machines, especially vintage ones, and gives us a wonderful tour of the many different machines in his workshop. :) th-cam.com/video/EtRE3Ysu4_A/w-d-xo.html
@@drakeParagon I did actually saw this video first via link from the UK vintage sewing machine FB group, and then I found your channel and Davie, Sew Far North. I live in Denmark and make a few videos about vintage sewing machines and a few modifications, that can make them sew heavier fabrics. But it is only some of them that are capable, when you go to V92 or V138 thread.
Thanks for checking out our channel. :) We are sailing in Limfjord now. Such a sailing paradise! :) I love using our Singer Heavy duty for lighter material projects. But for heavy sails and canvas sewing, I think I'm just going to have to buy the more expensive Sailrite machine. th-cam.com/video/Dw_GvuOk3O8/w-d-xo.html
I just bought the same walking foot for my machine. I'm not ready to start making or repairing sails, but was hoping to use the machine for stuff like interior cushions on the boat.
did you turn up your pressure foot pressure to maximum? I still hate this machine haha. if you want a cheaper option than the sailrite the mk 1 sailrite was a re badged brother. if you can find the brother version second hand it could be much cheaper
Success!!! The Sailrite or the barracuda are great I have an LZ1 but the new LZ1 have the super motor on them make sure you get it!! Also the monster wheel is amazing to see by hand or to go through 10 or so layers
I use the Singer Heavy duty on marine grade vinyl with leather needles and I can go through 4 layers. Crazy but true. Sewing vinyl takes practice and lots of concentration and taking your time. I was thinking about a Sailor machine but may singer keeps doing a pretty good job. 209 dollars for the singer goes a long way when the sailor are 1200 dollars. I will try the Teflon foot.
Too bad you didn't sail a bit farther south to Glasgow and took time to visit Kelvin Grove/ Glasgow art gallery and museum as well as other parts of Glasgow. Thanks for the video.
I think your biggest issue is the foot pedal controller, see if you can set something under the pedal to limit your speed? Or maybe tap a hole in the bottom and feed a bolt up to work as a limit?
I hadn't thought of using a bolt to limit how far you can press the pedal down. I did open up the pedal and turn the screw that slows it down, but I think it's still too fast.
Definitely. It's just that getting it to go slow is really difficult, especially at the beginning of the stitch, and especially with going through more layers at a time.
@@drakeParagon you had the same thoughts as me then, I actually use the pedal under my heel, I find it more controllable when at a table or like you are on deck trying not to take the sail down!
Y'all need to look up shore power and understand how weak the supply voltage can be to run inductive motors that have back emf. I've seen 20+ voltage drop from the back to the front. It's like losing 1/6th of the power.
Hi Drake and Monique! Where are you now? We really enjoy all your videos. We are ready to sell our Westsail 43 yawl. It is in good condition, just need little TLC. If you run into someone who might be interested then guide them to us. We have not listed it yet.
I watched this video and others in preparation for repairing the Luff of my Super Cat 19 main sail. It's about 30 feet tall. In the past I've struggled with sew lines that are not straight like Drake. I wanted straight lines on this repair so when I set up to do my repair I clamped the machine to the table so that it was very stable, and my lines were very close to as good as the lines that came with the sail. I put a 6 minute video about it on youtube under my name in case anyone is interested:-)
@@drakeParagon Thanks for the reply. Been watching for YEARS. I like how authentic you are. You and "yacht teleport" (now sold) - are the last few honest, none bikini-clad, clickbait-free TH-camrs. Thank you.
I don’t know why you don’t have more views and subs.....you been putting out quality videos for years. Maybe something to do with algorithms.....maybe put “Sailing Drake Paragon”
Interesting -- I wish you demonstrated the walking foot and increased the stich count and made the zig zag bigger. That would be ideal. For what it is worth, we now understand that Zig Zag stiches are not actually stronger than straight stitches and not better. This has been proven and awards given to the athor of a definative study on the topic. It was originally used in sailmaking when they used cotton sails and thought that the "stretch" in the sail required this. But modern sails don't stretch in any meaningful way and if they do "bag out" it is due to deterioration in the dacron materials. Buy an older excellent condition Juki 563 with a servo motor and slowely stitch straight stiches and double the rows. Any failure later on will be fabric related. The stitch will hold.
@@ejrupp9555 ...much appreciated sir. (although I changed my mind and now think that the zig-zag stich would be better - maybe I have no idea - will someone PLEASE do a deep dive into this most important issue!)
@@Coleen-Love fabric stretches more than thread ... get ziggy with it ... otherwise, full speed point to point ... balance your tensions. If the fabric and thread are the same then make what ever pattern floats your boat for lack of a better pun.
@@ejrupp9555 ,,just wish there was some way to know if zig zag is actually better on sailboat sails.. Not enough research or opinions on this issue. Almost every heavy sewing machine I wish I had, only stiches a straight stich for some reason.
@@Coleen-Love Either the thread acts the same as the fabric (same stretch) with even distribution of stresses, or not. This I'm afraid is your answer. Your 'better' is situational. I'd imagine that along the leech to the head you would want it less stiff while at the head and clew etc you want it more stiff. The only time ya should use a zig is if you are worried about stretch stressing the thread as that would cause a rotation in the orientation in addition to elongation minimizing the elongation stresses. It's not a question of which is better but which is appropriate given the characteristics of thread being used in relation to the sail material it ties. It used to be that we had stretchy sail and stiff thread ... now we have stiff sail material and threads to match. Zigs are a method to minimize elongation stress by introducing a rotational aspect that reduces said stress in thread and allowing the sail material to carry that stress to result in deformation (stretch). If your sail was an aluminum sheet you need not sew it together. Vibration stress would be highest along the unsupported leech on a mainsail but not a Genoa since the foot is also unsupported. Haven't used a zig-zag for structure since the 80's but for design I have. Back in the day, I used braided fishing line (trilene as I recall) on a sunfish sail ... 90 degree and 120 zig zags ... the 120 ripped the sail at the thread on rip stop along the leech. The 90 did not. 180 degree (straight, no zig-zag) with nylon in ripstop sail is about 15 years old ... material and thread essentially the same color faded but no rips and by far has seen more use that the other two ever did. So that is my anecdotal info for ya.
Hi, I think that you are holding the work going through the sewing machine too far from the needle. You will have way better controle if you hold your work just in front of the presser foot and let the work move through your hands. Also, did I see loops in the stitching at the back of the work? If so, then you need to tighten your tension for your top thread. You also could try to increase the pressure of your presser foot to hold the work a little tighter, most machines allow you to do this. it may or may not improve things, testing on scraps of fabric is always recommended. Cheers.
mate what you need is to secure that machine down. it sounds and looks like it could be falling apart any second. im surprised it didnt fell onto the deck
Ya, you're right. The machine is so light, and I just had it sitting on top of some books. We had problems with the sail sliding around, but also the machine itself was sliding too. Next time I might try to figure out how to clamp the machine down in place.
I would have sewed slower because of the sailcloth, and used a much wider zigzag, using a seam guide. But, overall, the machine handled it ok, but it could have looked a lot better and wouldn’t have to stop to fix the thread. As far as guiding the fabric through, it is a lot better for the size of the patch to have another person guide it from behind like you did. The reason you have to do this is because your machine is not inset in a table, it’s on a table, so naturally the fabric, any fabric, especially slippery fabric will slide off the back of the machine not helping the process of the machine feeding.
oh and appears you got it cheap because it's a refurbished or refaced machine ... it has a 4411 front and 5511 head back and bottom. ... they are the same machines just different colors. The 5511 says Scholastic from 2010 and it is white. The 4411 says heavy duty on it and it is gray from 2012. The manuals are the exactly same. I'm just throwing this out there ... I think the scholastic version didn't sell as well so they changed the color and called it something else. The color and name is the only difference. Apparently scholastic has a different meaning in the UK etc but didn't fly too well in the states.
Buy a Sailrite LSZ-1 if you want to sew canvas. It wouldn’t be so good for lighter fabric. It wouldn’t be good for making a sail unless it was for a dinghy.
If you go slower you will have less problems, with binding, skipping, wandering etc. Just go as fast as required for the Power needed. Sewing machines are fast because experienced sewers can run them fast/efficient and straight.
I wish I could sew slower, but it seems that it's just really hard to sew slowly with the Singer Heavy duty, especially when you start the stitch. I even took the pedal apart trying to adjust the minimum speed, but I still couldn't get it to go slower. I think maybe when you're sewing through heavier material, then it requires a heavier press on the pedal to get the needle to go through the material, and then it's too fast. I think it's much easier to sew slower through lighter fabrics with this machine.
@@drakeParagon I suspected as much. 1st thought was change the gearing or motor but idk if that is possible on that machine. Using an assistant to feed seems to be somewhat working for you so it'll probably come together....practice practice practice. I started sewing very young, and braduated to a sewing machine by the time I was 10. Even for me, it takes a bunch of practice runs if I haven’t sewn for awhile. Also you are doing zigzag which shows problems much more clearly than straight. Good sailing channel. Cheers.
I'd bet it's the shore power ... notoriously low voltage due to long line losses. I had that machine in the 4423 ... went to a back slip so i would not make as much noise and it bogged. back to my slip in the front and pardon the phrase ... it was singing.
Not too bad for absolute beginners, but not useful for others. This seems almost as though Singer is "encouraging" you to sell their machine, even though it's not up to the task.
This video is not sponsored by Singer in any way. I’d like to add that I was able to patch the sail adequately enough. And while the singer heavy duty was just barely adequate enough to sew through 4 layers of the heaviest sail material on our mainsail, it had no problems later sewing a patch onto our lighter material headsail. In addition to all of the other projects that I showed in part 1. If you want to see the perfect sewing machine to have on a saillboat then check out our next video on the Sailrite machine.
Take your time and sew s-l-o-w-e-r... There's no need to go 100 mph, that's how you make mistakes, and go off course and even break needles. You don't want a needle breaking off and hitting you in the face. Needles can even get bent up under the throat plate and get stuck. Lemme tell you, it's a super big pain in the ass to try to get a bent or broken needle out of the throat plate or under it. It's OK to sew slowly. Don't be a lead foot. When you sew slower, you have more time to control where the fabric is going and you have more time to correct it's direction when it starts going awry. Also, if you want to, use a pencil or whatever will leave a mark on whatever fabric you're sewing and draw a straight line where you want your stitching to go. Having a visual line to follow can help you stay on track with the needle for straighter stitching.
Thank Moon Bear! I think the thing with the singer heavy duty is that it’s very difficult, if not impossible, to sew very slowly through very heavy sail material. It’s much easier to sew slowly through lighter fabrics, but with the heavier stuff the needle won’t go through unless you press the pedal down enough and then it goes too fast. The machine is definitely not designed for heavy sail material like a Sailrite machine is.
@@drakeParagon Going slower with the Singer Heavy Duty is possible, but you have to (A) kind of "feather" the pedal, and (B) use the hand wheel to give it a little extra torque when starting or when it stalls at a low speed.
I was told to take the original foot and sew my name in script on 400 sand paper ... it's funny how much better the last name came out compared to the first. And contact glue just on the foot will work in a pinch for that day ya got it and no sandpaper. V92's claim to fame is for UV resistance ya get an extra year or two. V69 is actually the thread of my choice. Oh and the proper name is 120/19 for the needle. But you can get away with the 16 with V69 ... it's the material and the thread that require the 19. A little talent and know how and ya really don't need all the fancy stuff, the foot will do all the pulling. ya just have to hold the seam line in the same spot the entire time. The fancy stuff usually just lets you do it faster ... not better.
These machines are misnamed. Irresponsibly so. They are not "heavy-duty" machines for heavy canvas, heavy leather, or other heavy fabrics. "Cheapest isn't always best". They are only suitable for normal dress and light upholstery fabrics and will wear out in no time if used for heavier fabrics like the ones sailors sew. An old Singer 15 or a Japanese clone of it (many brands) is far better for such jobs, provided they are regularly serviced (more than simply oiling).
Why would you sew in such a terrible position with the machine moving all over the place as it is tilted and balanced on books or something weird. Very bad test. You need a proper table with proper space to spread out. No machine could sew a straight line in such conditions.
Looks like you need an edge guide to keep you sewing parallel to the edge. It works like a fence for a table saw so you sew straight lines.
i actually just got one myself today after getting my machine :) btw your description is perfect!
That, and the walking foot would aid greatly in pulling the work through in a straight line. That machine just doesn't have enough pulling power without the walking foot. Your mom tried to help but was wrong this time. You can't skate with dull skates unless someone pulls you, and that's what the walking foot does.
You did well given the type of sewing machine you were using. Sail makers use sewing machines that have a roller or puller that pulls the sail cloth through straight. There is also a smaller puller just behind the needle which is synchronized with the larger puller. By having two pullers it increases the pivot point area therefore making it much easier to sew a straight line. Also sail makers sewing machines sew seams at a very fast rate which makes sewing lines straight easier. Your sew lines got straighter with experience. After sewing for a long time, you will find your mind wandering or thinking about the next step. You were one of the first sailing You Tubers, great job.
I bought my boat in oriental NC and sailed it back to FL. Nice to see ya still out there on your boat making your way around the world.
This two-parter has been very interesting to me. I want, and feel like I need, to learn to sew to be as self-sufficient as reasonably possible on my own boat. Thanks!
I think being able to sew with your own sewing machine is great, but I also think that knowing how to sew by hand is a great apocalypse skill, which makes it pretty bad ass in my book. :)
- Drake
Great job, my wife knows how to sew and we just bought a used Sailrite LSZ-1. I look forward to learning to sew myself,this was very helpful,
thanks
Singer + skill + practice + help = success. Congrats.
Like a lot of projects…the last step is usually perfect. Fun watching. I used my household machine to create a sail pack. It took some work to get the tension and stitches working the way I wanted but it worked. Looks like your sail is going to hold for as long as u have the sail.
This makes me so happy knowing my sewing machine can do this! I'll definitely be coming back to this video in the future for reference.
Respect for your can do, will do, have done attitude! Happy sailing.
someone's been having fun in editing.
Been attempting to sew a seat cover for one of my motorcycle seats. a machine not made for large thick fabrics/vinyl/leather, might well punch through, but the tight confines can make it really hard to stay straight.
There are also special needles available for stitching thick and multi layors. These have a sharp triangle shape tip. They dont puncture trough but cut the fabric.
Such leather point needles are not recommended to be used on woven fabrics, because in cuts the threads in fabric and makes decreases its strengt. You use such needles for leather, because you can get too high friction between needle and leather if you don't.
Great video. Drake is great at explaining things to us through camera, maybe some teaching history? Looking forward to more sailing stuff :)
As a 70 year old sailing newbie, I love your how to vids.
Thanks John! Happy sailing! :)
I knew you could do it...or at least I thought you had a 95% chance. It worked on our Catalina 30 sail for an almost identical repair. I did see you picked up the Schmetz leather needles like I suggested. They really make all the difference for the heavy stuff. Though I know you have to go with your mother's suggestion with the foot, most sail repair shops all seem to run a complex walking foot. That is also what we used and it held everything down for a second and sewing it, then letting the material move. You could certainly do a lot better by yourself if you were sitting at a sewing table for this task, instead of kneeling over the unit. Good show regardless.Though my wife and I also tag teamed our repair too; just to keep the sail manageable.
I always learn so much on this channel. And glad I have the same machine!
I've also seen various material edge guides of various designs. Some attach to the presser foot and some attach to the deck
Found these videos while researching the 4411 for sewing camping gear. My suggestion is to test sew more samples to refine settings, stabilize your machine so it doesn’t move, keep the sail from binding and bunching on itself and surrounding, and slow down, let the machine do its thing, don’t fight the machine and sail. Thanks for posting these. I’ll learn from your experiences
I've seen the lady in the Sailrite videos use Super 77 adhesive spray instead of tape. When I sew I start off a bit slower and pick up speed as I get better control and it seems to help me get straighter stitches. Was a tip from a quilter friend. I haven't tried sails yet though, so it could be harder to go slower. Thank you for the video! You've inspired me to go ahead and tackle a project I've been avoiding and see what happens!
Thank you! I wish our Singer Heavy Duty sewing machine could sew slower. It's really fast, but it's can be challenging to get it to sew slowly, especially at the beginning of stitch. I even took the pedal apart and to adjust the speed to get it to go slower, but I think it's still too fast. Good luck with your next project! :)
- Drake
@@drakeParagon I wondered if it was the pedal. You got really good there at the end! Thanks again, love your channel!
@@drakeParagon Turn it down. There is an adjustment screw for the sewing speed. If you have a manuel please consult it.
Thanks for the great tutorial. The singer sewing machine can do it, but it sounds like it’s at its limit. Enjoy your videos.
It's crazy how we are not taught how to sew anymore. I built our house thinking my wife would make the curtains...yeah right, I made them.
Married an American lady expecting her to know how to sew, did you? 😂 Wait 'til she takes you to the cleaners and shows you her excellent housekeeping skills (ie, keeps YOUR house) 😢
Thanks for following up on part one episode. The heavy-duty seems to be a valuable piece of equipment on the boat. Cheers.
Nice one thanks Drake and
Mo. Looking for a sewing machine myself and this was enlightening.
I watched your first video then I bought a sailrite. For what you are sewing both machines can do the job. The advantage on my sailrite is I could go slower. As a beginner learning how to sew has it's up's and down's but doing it makes us better at it. I enjoy your video.
Really enjoyed this methodical follow up and I would consider that a successful outcome. As with so much in life, assessing how far up the quality (and expense) ladder you need to go for your purposes can take consideration and wisdom but I think you've chosen well and have a great bang for your buck machine that does what you need of it.
They make a magnetic bar that will prevent the sail from wandering. It holds to the metal base...works great.
I think you did a good job there considering it was your first attempt. I actually worked as a sailmaker for a few years in my youth (which was a VERY long time ago). and I'd say the Singer performed quite well. A walking foot is not a necessity for making or repairing sails in my experience although it is nice to have. I've made and repaired many, many sails using the standard metal presser foot.
Good job Drake.
Stoked to have come across this. We have the same Singer, and I'm just getting set to redo the UV strip on my genoa. Hopefully your tips serve me well!
I bought a sailrite. Great machine to get any job done on the boat. Made a dodger and repaired sails.
I’m really looking forward to checking out the Sailrite machine when we get to Shetland in a few weeks. 😁
I watched the video with the teflon presser foot and seeing the sail material moving around and producing a less desirable stitch pattern.
No disrespect to your mom but I have you tried the walking foot on same Singer 4411?
Results?
See I'm old and you refreshed a memory of about 40 years ago when I was young . My nextdoor neighbor was a retired singer sewing machine mechanic my garage was full of car stuff his was full of old restored singer sewing machines from the first model industrial to the 1960s or 70s it was like a museum.. he said that a good singer tuned properly could sew leather and I have seen on TH-cam asian feather jacket makers using old home model machines sewing leather jackets. The gearing is strong enough in the old machines . I bet the more modern machines would have issues with nylon gears stripping etc. So I'm thinking get your machine to a old sewing machine mechanic have him tune it and advise you on durability for your needs $1-200 to know and have toys running like a super stock sewing machine will save a lot over a new sailright machine.
I have always thought the distance between the needle and base where the motor is was the important thing but sailright machines appear to be the same as yours or close enough anyway happy sails.
How has your repair held up? Have you purchased another machine to replace the singer? Thank you
I bought a Singer Heavy duty to try to fix my sprayhood that was falling apart. I had the same problem as you had. It worked just fine when sawing common fabric but I couldn't fix the sprayhood at all. I gave up. Now I know what I can do to remedy the problem :)
Actually, a proper walking foot machine allows more pressure to be placed on the material and clamps it in place while push/pulling it thru in unison
seems the main issue is the mass and weight of the sail on the left tends to make the cloth go in a curve or circular path instead of straight. Maybe a portable bag sewing machine could help.
Nice one Drake, I have a heavy duty industrial Singer in my workshop and it’s not easy even then despite the large motor. I also have a Husqvana which I like as it has a low gear so you get lots of power at a slower speed. I think that’s why some machines are difficult to use as you need the speed to get through tough fabric and it is hard to control. The Husqvarna is easier to control. In fact when I bought it second hand for £30 I also joined those groups and chatted with Davie a lot, he has been a mine of help and information. Look forward to seeing you meet with him, that will be a great video I’m sure. Best of luck, Andy UK
I have always enjoyed your vids and your take on sailing - thank you 😊
Hi. I liked your video. Will you please tell me what kind of thread was better for your sewing?
Thanks!
Here are the threads I used.
- www.ebay.com/itm/223916011083
- www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06Y5YJFG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
They both seem to be about the same.
Another very watchable and useful video. Thanks. Could you give a demonstration of the walking presser foot on sail material? What thread tension setting did you use? I have used a sewing machine needle for leather hoping it will be useful for thicker materials. My thoughts on your machine are if it works keep using it and it gives you a range of stitches for other jobs.
This is awesome! Thanks for this video! I’ve been trying to figure out whether or not this machine could get me started with making cushion covers and sail covers for my 28’ sailboat. Have any opinions on this since making this video?
I think you could make canvas cushion and sail covers with the Singer machine, as long as you’re not going to be sewing through too many layers at a time. For sure, the Sailrite sewing machine would be better though. We’ve got a video on the Sailrite machine too if you haven’t seen it.
99% ... the only trouble I had was with piping ... i'd suggest you get the adapter if ya really want piping on canvas back vinyl. Like the stuff popular in the 50's 60's 70's
It really is a practice thing. As you seem to have gathered for the later runs, controlling the speed is crucial. Don't go faster than you can control. And having someone helping when the item is bulky, like a sail, is a good thing. Am I an expert? No way!!! lol
Before going out and spending a fortune on a Sailrite machine look for any 80's sewing machine like a Jean Machine etc. These units have steel gearing and have larger motors to push through thicker material. Since nobody sews anymore these machines go for $50 or less and I have had years of boat use with them. A lot of them have motors that can be swapped out for 12 volt motors however we just use an inverter. The build quality of 1970 and 1980 sewing machines is also better and with proper timing and lubrication will last for years and not take money away from the cruising cash. A magnetic guide from sailrite will help to keep things a little straighter and thread lubrication will help with lots pf materials as well. Basking tape makes sewing fabrics a lot easier and sometimes better then pins.
Great video
Thank you. I think you might find this video interesting. In it, Davie in Shetland shows us all of his wonderful old sewing machines. Some very capable, and classy machines. They don’t make them like they used to! 😊This Sailor Saves Sewing Machines - Sew Far North
th-cam.com/video/EtRE3Ysu4_A/w-d-xo.html
Drake is just a spaz ! CHEERS !
Gotta dive into the solar panel setup and how you networked the boat for in port and at sea! :-)
Thanks! I'd love to make a video about our solar and wind power.
Thank you for showing this. I was not aware, that this modern Singer is able to sew V92 (Tex 90) thread. However when I see stitch quality is not in order. It is not balanced and got loops below. So you need to use higher needle thread tension, and it may not be possible. The other problem I see is that you sew way too fast in order to control what is going on. And I think it is because this machine do not have ability to sew slow, controlled and heavy duty at the same time. So you need to go fast in order to sew at all. Perhaps some test sewing (not in final product) and playing with thread types, needles and thread tension could make things work better, but I doubt. I think this is over the limit for this sewing machine.
If you look at vintage household sewing machines, some of the Husqvarna Viking machines can do this, because they got a low gear. Cheap alternatives is to make some modifications to sewing machines like a Singer 237 or a Pfaff 130.
Thanks! Yes, we were really pushing the Singer Heavy duty to its limits on this. The canvas patch material was the thickest and toughest available, and the machine could barely work with it at all. I have since used the machine to sew patches on our other sail, which is made of lighter material, and it worked perfectly. Please check out our latest video, an interview with Davie Meddes in Shetland. He repairs all sewing machines, especially vintage ones, and gives us a wonderful tour of the many different machines in his workshop. :) th-cam.com/video/EtRE3Ysu4_A/w-d-xo.html
@@drakeParagon I did actually saw this video first via link from the UK vintage sewing machine FB group, and then I found your channel and Davie, Sew Far North. I live in Denmark and make a few videos about vintage sewing machines and a few modifications, that can make them sew heavier fabrics. But it is only some of them that are capable, when you go to V92 or V138 thread.
Thanks for checking out our channel. :) We are sailing in Limfjord now. Such a sailing paradise! :) I love using our Singer Heavy duty for lighter material projects. But for heavy sails and canvas sewing, I think I'm just going to have to buy the more expensive Sailrite machine. th-cam.com/video/Dw_GvuOk3O8/w-d-xo.html
I just bought the same walking foot for my machine. I'm not ready to start making or repairing sails, but was hoping to use the machine for stuff like interior cushions on the boat.
My boat came with a Sail Rite. I’m looking forward to seeing what it can do.
did you turn up your pressure foot pressure to maximum? I still hate this machine haha. if you want a cheaper option than the sailrite the mk 1 sailrite was a re badged brother. if you can find the brother version second hand it could be much cheaper
Yes, I did. Davie from Sew Far North recommended that I turn up the pressure foot pressure. I think it may have helped.
Success!!! The Sailrite or the barracuda are great I have an LZ1 but the new LZ1 have the super motor on them make sure you get it!! Also the monster wheel is amazing to see by hand or to go through 10 or so layers
I use the Singer Heavy duty on marine grade vinyl with leather needles and I can go through 4 layers. Crazy but true. Sewing vinyl takes practice and lots of concentration and taking your time. I was thinking about a Sailor machine but may singer keeps doing a pretty good job. 209 dollars for the singer goes a long way when the sailor are 1200 dollars. I will try the Teflon foot.
Hi, what was the thread that you used on the sail that stitched better?
Too bad you didn't sail a bit farther south to Glasgow and took time to visit Kelvin Grove/ Glasgow art gallery and museum as well as other parts of Glasgow. Thanks for the video.
get a magnet to put on the platform to align the edge of the material, and then just go a bit slower
Fun video ❤ happy sailing ⛵️
I bet your mother really liked that old lady voice you gave her. 😳😳
😂
I bought a few different sew machines Pfaff industrial is the best by far Are available second hand, might be too big 4 u
I think your biggest issue is the foot pedal controller, see if you can set something under the pedal to limit your speed? Or maybe tap a hole in the bottom and feed a bolt up to work as a limit?
Right at the end you managed to go nice and slow, didn't that make you feel like you had more control? Anyway! I hope this helpS!
I hadn't thought of using a bolt to limit how far you can press the pedal down. I did open up the pedal and turn the screw that slows it down, but I think it's still too fast.
Definitely. It's just that getting it to go slow is really difficult, especially at the beginning of the stitch, and especially with going through more layers at a time.
@@drakeParagon you had the same thoughts as me then, I actually use the pedal under my heel, I find it more controllable when at a table or like you are on deck trying not to take the sail down!
Y'all need to look up shore power and understand how weak the supply voltage can be to run inductive motors that have back emf. I've seen 20+ voltage drop from the back to the front. It's like losing 1/6th of the power.
Hi Drake and Monique! Where are you now? We really enjoy all your videos. We are ready to sell our Westsail 43 yawl. It is in good condition, just need little TLC. If you run into someone who might be interested then guide them to us. We have not listed it yet.
I watched this video and others in preparation for repairing the Luff of my Super Cat 19 main sail. It's about 30 feet tall. In the past I've struggled with sew lines that are not straight like Drake. I wanted straight lines on this repair so when I set up to do my repair I clamped the machine to the table so that it was very stable, and my lines were very close to as good as the lines that came with the sail. I put a 6 minute video about it on youtube under my name in case anyone is interested:-)
Did you try the walking foot?
Yes, but in this case I think the teflon foot did a better job.
@@drakeParagon Thanks for the reply. Been watching for YEARS. I like how authentic you are. You and "yacht teleport" (now sold) - are the last few honest, none bikini-clad, clickbait-free TH-camrs. Thank you.
I don’t know why you don’t have more views and subs.....you been putting out quality videos for years. Maybe something to do with algorithms.....maybe put “Sailing Drake Paragon”
thanks for the suggestion. :)
@@drakeParagon hope you guys are well. I really enjoyed you guys exploring the Faroe Islands 🇫🇴, it is beautiful there
Interesting -- I wish you demonstrated the walking foot and increased the stich count and made the zig zag bigger. That would be ideal. For what it is worth, we now understand that Zig Zag stiches are not actually stronger than straight stitches and not better. This has been proven and awards given to the athor of a definative study on the topic. It was originally used in sailmaking when they used cotton sails and thought that the "stretch" in the sail required this. But modern sails don't stretch in any meaningful way and if they do "bag out" it is due to deterioration in the dacron materials. Buy an older excellent condition Juki 563 with a servo motor and slowely stitch straight stiches and double the rows. Any failure later on will be fabric related. The stitch will hold.
Concur.
@@ejrupp9555 ...much appreciated sir. (although I changed my mind and now think that the zig-zag stich would be better - maybe I have no idea - will someone PLEASE do a deep dive into this most important issue!)
@@Coleen-Love fabric stretches more than thread ... get ziggy with it ... otherwise, full speed point to point ... balance your tensions. If the fabric and thread are the same then make what ever pattern floats your boat for lack of a better pun.
@@ejrupp9555 ,,just wish there was some way to know if zig zag is actually better on sailboat sails.. Not enough research or opinions on this issue. Almost every heavy sewing machine I wish I had, only stiches a straight stich for some reason.
@@Coleen-Love Either the thread acts the same as the fabric (same stretch) with even distribution of stresses, or not. This I'm afraid is your answer. Your 'better' is situational. I'd imagine that along the leech to the head you would want it less stiff while at the head and clew etc you want it more stiff. The only time ya should use a zig is if you are worried about stretch stressing the thread as that would cause a rotation in the orientation in addition to elongation minimizing the elongation stresses. It's not a question of which is better but which is appropriate given the characteristics of thread being used in relation to the sail material it ties. It used to be that we had stretchy sail and stiff thread ... now we have stiff sail material and threads to match. Zigs are a method to minimize elongation stress by introducing a rotational aspect that reduces said stress in thread and allowing the sail material to carry that stress to result in deformation (stretch).
If your sail was an aluminum sheet you need not sew it together. Vibration stress would be highest along the unsupported leech on a mainsail but not a Genoa since the foot is also unsupported. Haven't used a zig-zag for structure since the 80's but for design I have.
Back in the day, I used braided fishing line (trilene as I recall) on a sunfish sail ... 90 degree and 120 zig zags ... the 120 ripped the sail at the thread on rip stop along the leech. The 90 did not. 180 degree (straight, no zig-zag) with nylon in ripstop sail is about 15 years old ... material and thread essentially the same color faded but no rips and by far has seen more use that the other two ever did. So that is my anecdotal info for ya.
Hi, I think that you are holding the work going through the sewing machine too far from the needle. You will have way better controle if you hold your work just in front of the presser foot and let the work move through your hands. Also, did I see loops in the stitching at the back of the work? If so, then you need to tighten your tension for your top thread. You also could try to increase the pressure of your presser foot to hold the work a little tighter, most machines allow you to do this. it may or may not improve things, testing on scraps of fabric is always recommended. Cheers.
mate what you need is to secure that machine down. it sounds and looks like it could be falling apart any second. im surprised it didnt fell onto the deck
Ya, you're right. The machine is so light, and I just had it sitting on top of some books. We had problems with the sail sliding around, but also the machine itself was sliding too. Next time I might try to figure out how to clamp the machine down in place.
The machine the machine 👹
A blind man would be pleased to see it... As my old man used to say..
I would have sewed slower because of the sailcloth, and used a much wider zigzag, using a seam guide. But, overall, the machine handled it ok, but it could have looked a lot better and wouldn’t have to stop to fix the thread. As far as guiding the fabric through, it is a lot better for the size of the patch to have another person guide it from behind like you did. The reason you have to do this is because your machine is not inset in a table, it’s on a table, so naturally the fabric, any fabric, especially slippery fabric will slide off the back of the machine not helping the process of the machine feeding.
Plus he's doing on deck 😂
@@MindBodySoulOk with shore power ... IE the machine is acting like an almost heavy duty machine.
Also the speed and your right but it cost a lot more
One of your best "practical" videos - good on you. Thanks.
so...TLDR....listen to your mother :)
oh and appears you got it cheap because it's a refurbished or refaced machine ... it has a 4411 front and 5511 head back and bottom. ... they are the same machines just different colors. The 5511 says Scholastic from 2010 and it is white. The 4411 says heavy duty on it and it is gray from 2012. The manuals are the exactly same.
I'm just throwing this out there ... I think the scholastic version didn't sell as well so they changed the color and called it something else. The color and name is the only difference. Apparently scholastic has a different meaning in the UK etc but didn't fly too well in the states.
I tried to do a reenforcement patch for a second set of reef points. My machine, a singer from the sixties, died. I’ll try a new singer heavy duty.
Buy a Sailrite LSZ-1 if you want to sew canvas. It wouldn’t be so good for lighter fabric. It wouldn’t be good for making a sail unless it was for a dinghy.
A guide attached to the sewing machine, it guide the stitches become straight.
a speed controller to slow it down. i think there are a couple of hacks out there.
rheostat. different from a vsd or potentiometer
I'm on Brimil's other crew. I'm sorry for what happened.
If you go slower you will have less problems, with binding, skipping, wandering etc. Just go as fast as required for the Power needed. Sewing machines are fast because experienced sewers can run them fast/efficient and straight.
I wish I could sew slower, but it seems that it's just really hard to sew slowly with the Singer Heavy duty, especially when you start the stitch. I even took the pedal apart trying to adjust the minimum speed, but I still couldn't get it to go slower. I think maybe when you're sewing through heavier material, then it requires a heavier press on the pedal to get the needle to go through the material, and then it's too fast. I think it's much easier to sew slower through lighter fabrics with this machine.
@@drakeParagon I suspected as much. 1st thought was change the gearing or motor but idk if that is possible on that machine. Using an assistant to feed seems to be somewhat working for you so it'll probably come together....practice practice practice. I started sewing very young, and braduated to a sewing machine by the time I was 10. Even for me, it takes a bunch of practice runs if I haven’t sewn for awhile. Also you are doing zigzag which shows problems much more clearly than straight. Good sailing channel. Cheers.
Little late, but your thread tension looks off. you defiantly need a guide for a straight line
I'd bet it's the shore power ... notoriously low voltage due to long line losses. I had that machine in the 4423 ... went to a back slip so i would not make as much noise and it bogged. back to my slip in the front and pardon the phrase ... it was singing.
My helper is called a Sailrite and I would never use anything else.
You just needed "Mo" practice!
Ha! I approve of this message. *·゜ﾟ·*:.。..。.:*·'ヽ(^▽^)ノ'·*:.。. .。.:*·゜ﾟ·* -Monique
Wait….what??? A sailrite was $750 only a year ago?? They’re about $1200 right now 😢😢
look at a Juki ... I've never seen a less for your money machine than a sailrite and they nickel and dime you to death after.
:)
Not too bad for absolute beginners, but not useful for others. This seems almost as though Singer is "encouraging" you to sell their machine, even though it's not up to the task.
This video is not sponsored by Singer in any way. I’d like to add that I was able to patch the sail adequately enough. And while the singer heavy duty was just barely adequate enough to sew through 4 layers of the heaviest sail material on our mainsail, it had no problems later sewing a patch onto our lighter material headsail. In addition to all of the other projects that I showed in part 1. If you want to see the perfect sewing machine to have on a saillboat then check out our next video on the Sailrite machine.
Take your time and sew s-l-o-w-e-r... There's no need to go 100 mph, that's how you make mistakes, and go off course and even break needles. You don't want a needle breaking off and hitting you in the face. Needles can even get bent up under the throat plate and get stuck. Lemme tell you, it's a super big pain in the ass to try to get a bent or broken needle out of the throat plate or under it. It's OK to sew slowly. Don't be a lead foot. When you sew slower, you have more time to control where the fabric is going and you have more time to correct it's direction when it starts going awry.
Also, if you want to, use a pencil or whatever will leave a mark on whatever fabric you're sewing and draw a straight line where you want your stitching to go. Having a visual line to follow can help you stay on track with the needle for straighter stitching.
Thank Moon Bear! I think the thing with the singer heavy duty is that it’s very difficult, if not impossible, to sew very slowly through very heavy sail material. It’s much easier to sew slowly through lighter fabrics, but with the heavier stuff the needle won’t go through unless you press the pedal down enough and then it goes too fast. The machine is definitely not designed for heavy sail material like a Sailrite machine is.
@@drakeParagon Going slower with the Singer Heavy Duty is possible, but you have to (A) kind of "feather" the pedal, and (B) use the hand wheel to give it a little extra torque when starting or when it stalls at a low speed.
I was told to take the original foot and sew my name in script on 400 sand paper ... it's funny how much better the last name came out compared to the first. And contact glue just on the foot will work in a pinch for that day ya got it and no sandpaper. V92's claim to fame is for UV resistance ya get an extra year or two. V69 is actually the thread of my choice. Oh and the proper name is 120/19 for the needle. But you can get away with the 16 with V69 ... it's the material and the thread that require the 19.
A little talent and know how and ya really don't need all the fancy stuff, the foot will do all the pulling. ya just have to hold the seam line in the same spot the entire time. The fancy stuff usually just lets you do it faster ... not better.
MINE DOES THE JOB,, BETTER JOB IF GETTING THE SAIL OFF , ON A TABLE,,, BETTER VALUE THAN SAILRITE, FOR BIGGER JOB ,,,, SAILMAKER,,,
These machines are misnamed. Irresponsibly so. They are not "heavy-duty" machines for heavy canvas, heavy leather, or other heavy fabrics. "Cheapest isn't always best". They are only suitable for normal dress and light upholstery fabrics and will wear out in no time if used for heavier fabrics like the ones sailors sew.
An old Singer 15 or a Japanese clone of it (many brands) is far better for such jobs, provided they are regularly serviced (more than simply oiling).
Sorry, but your mom is wrong. You need the walking foot and an edge guide.
Looks to me like you just need to practice, practice, practice.
Why would you sew in such a terrible position with the machine moving all over the place as it is tilted and balanced on books or something weird. Very bad test. You need a proper table with proper space to spread out. No machine could sew a straight line in such conditions.
Omg throw that piece of junk out and get a real machine.