Stop Resin 3D Print Fails! Bed Adhesion Tips & Tricks
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Having issues with resin 3D Prints sticking to your buildplate? Here are a few tips and one main setting you should be looking at in your slicers!
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rather have a tightly stuck print that didnt fail, than a failed one that did not stick
I have a print that is just a sheet of plastic on the entire plate.
A really under-utilized tool in lychee really helps with the removal process. I add a raft to my prints with a height of about 1mm and it allows me to lift the print off the bed easily with a plastic scraper. I've never ever had to use a metal scraper on my bed
Yeh i was sitting here thinking why not just use the shapewall raft, my prints always just peel off once you get under the corner. must be a reason.
To both of you, I use rafts and I use the rubber mallet and scraper. I guess I will experiment with the bottom exposure. The other issue is the support structures never print.
If you're sanding a build plate, it's smart to place the sandpaper on a piece of plate glass (ideally a surface plate) to preserve the flatness of the build surface.
That's correct. I think it's even better to use the back of a mirror. If the mirror shows no deviations, it is definitely flat.
Danger! The back is sensitive and the mirror coating can be damaged.
@3dfilm.attechnicalvisualiz524 the coating on mirrors is normally on the back
I found that pouring boiling or very hot water over the bottom of the prints help a lot to remove them! It softens up the resin quite a bit. It’s the same logic that goes into soaking before support removal
If your prints are that stuck to the buildplate, pop it in the freezer for a bit (be sure to put in a sealed container/bag first to prevent getting resin on all your frozen stuff). The cold shrinks the print ever so slightly ad it'll just pop right off
one thing I started doing on prints that have been difficult is spraying IPA on the part that is adhered to the plate and it has worked really well so far
You might wanna just stick the tip of the scraper (it's just the tip) and use it to get air into the bottom of the prints, that will release all the little square rafts that are connected together. That is my advice. When placing supports, make sure they are connected and also get the tip in there using the holes of the build plate. So much easier. Más vale maña que fuerza!
Just got my Mars 2 Pro after watching you for months. Haven't got it up and running yet, but I've been watching your videos to prepare myself. It'll be joining my two Ender 3's and CR-10 soon. Can't wait :D
Rifle Barrel Brush (commonly found at walmart/bass pro/sporting goods store) is a brass giant pipe cleaner with a metal tip - I'd say a 9mm size then just poke the back sides and they would come right out and be polished by the brass bristles
Thanks for the tips just bought my first resin printer the elegoo mars 2. Should be here Tuesday.
Oh boy you’re going to love that machine!
@@UncleJessy thank you so much for replying
Dang those prints came out amazing my dude!!! LOVE that Black Adam!
Heck yeah man! That model is great!
Exactly the info I've been looking for! Look forward to - hopefully - fewer misprints thanks to this 👏
When trying to get things off the build plate, it has to be so much harder since the scraper is having to slice through resin that's cured into the holes. So you're not only scraping resin off the plate but you're cutting cured resin in each hole.
You need to stop using individual support base rafts and use the lychee linked support raft which draws a single line between all support bases, but doesn't create a full solid raft.
You just lift a tiny corner with a sharp spatula or razor and the whole thing peels off smooth and holds together. Burn in layers won't matter then, trust me, works a charm and uses a touch less resin
Leveling and exposure, YES SIR! We do the sanding as well, with 2k grit or higher. Heard Bed Hesion as well, but realistically, that is a GREAT way to say it! Wow a full 10 seconds less on the initial layers! Yeah those Chitu stock settings were WAY too long, that bottom exposure setting definitely helped! Time to get a battery backup sir! We have an APC 3000 on the main farm and the resin printers run on an APC 1500 since they draw less power overall.
Is there a different plate or plate cover we can use for that phrozen so it doesn’t have the holes?
'I am going to get an angry test msg here in a few mins' I have the same problem lol I had to buy a weather proof plastic tub (to prevent the smell from getting everywhere in the house) to transport the 3D print to the garage so I can hammer away lol
One trick I use on my printers to prevent print failures is after I clean the vat with a shop towel, I then clean the vat again, but this time with alcohol pads (the ones for glasses) idk why but those pads really remove any cloudiness left in the sheet and the best thing is... those pads don't leave any fibers behind and remove any fibers your paper towel left behind! It works every time for me!
I hope this tip helps
Finally, an easy explanation of burn-in layers!
"Uncle Jessy from the very near future" lololol
Man, this is such a good explanation and overview of bed adhesion. Required viewing for new resin 3D printer owners!
Did I hear correctly? You said 40 seconds for burn in layers? Holy cow! With mono screens I have yet needed to go over 20 or 25 seconds. Also I only use like 4-6 layers for that.
40 was the original then I lowered it to 30 and since I’ve gone down to 25!
On my Mars Pro I had to increase it from default 60s to 70s to finally have the raft sticking on the build plate.
My mars 2 pro stock suggests 35s. I bet based on how well it sticks, 30 or 25 would be fine!
You should look into a battery backup system for the whole house if you have the money. or just battery backups for your individual printers. Especially if its your job. Lost prints and down time are Lost money. I love your videos!
Thank you very much for the tip, I bought an Anycubic mono x and a wham bam system and haven't been able to get it to print yet. Will give this a try once I get home
i have the same setup and plate, nothing sticked on the wham bam until i sanded it a bit, now its perfect
@@HelgeKeck a little sanding really does help
Cool vid! Just starting out on 3D printing myself, but power supply issues I know!
I have an apc back up power supply unit hooked up to any device I have that will cause lost work in a power outtage or surge (drafting computer, Anycubic Photon Mono X wooo wooo!, etc.).
Just make sure it is sized appropriately to your printer's power supply needs
Had problems with prints not sticking to the build plate. After hours of leveling which didnt help. Sanding the build plate and increasing the bottom exposure level fixed my problems. Thanks for the video.
Hey Jessy, why don't you simply use a raft? I personally prefer having trouble removing a successfull print from the building plate than the risk of my print sticking to the FEP resulting in a failed print. Removing the raft from the plate is quite easy with a plastic scraper.
How about using a raft with a shape wall?
Initially getting under the print is much easier with it, even with just a plastic scraper.
That can certainly help as well. I tried that once before with this same machine and still ended up with lots of cured resin in the holes
Hey Uncle Jessy, first of all I love watching your videos as I can tell that you put extra care into the quality of the production of the video itself. As a fellow photographer recommendation, I would suggest that you stop using low aperture in your camera (I think you are using 1.4 or 1.8 aperture, I know I also love blurry smooth backgrounds) specially when you are trying to show the details of the prints as most of the details are blurred out due to the low aperture. Just a friendly suggestion, hope it makes sense. Keep doing what you do bro.
I'd recommend using a UPS system for your outlets but only for the SLA printers. Just make sure to use a 1500V version. I personally got this one. The type that you get will depend on how long your power outages tend to last. I personally use the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W and while this one doesn't last too long it works great short power losses.
I love the "I don't know muh fahvuh Adam" print! Or the "I collect a check every first of the month Adam", whichever you prefer! There's also the "Disproportionately criminal Adam" moniker but I digress!
Just a suggestion. Use a light weight dead blow hammer with your scraper to help remove parts from the plate. I printed a stand that holds the plate surface verticle and frees up a hand.
I did my first print off the mega 8k today! It came off the plate fairly easy but my gosh...my nerves taking the supports off !!
Congrats! It’s a beast of a machine!
@@UncleJessy so far so good!! Can't wait for more tips for it from you 😉, loving it so far! I hope they manage to get some good faster profiles for it,that doesn't risk damage also!
I received my Sonic Mega 8K on Thursday.
I have no issues adhering to the build plate with Phrozen's Rapid Black water washable resin, however I've missed 100% of my prints as it sticks to the FEP.
I have never had any problems with my Photon Mono X 4K.
Great video! I struggled to keep stuff on the build plate, then I sanded it, I struggled to get stuff off of the build plate. I said, screw this, put the flex plate on and I will never look back. My every new resin printer will have one installed before even first use.
I'm going to be buying the ELEGOO Mars 2 Mono MSLA 3D Printer very soon to see if it'll just give me more pain that creality cr10 v2 did. But by the looks of things the only thing that are problems with resin 3d printers are not supporting your 3d prints and bed adhesion. With the cr 10 I had a whole list of thing that went wrong with it. Bed adhesion, leveling the bed at four corners, bed levelers not enough to screw to level the bed right, warped print bed, too many wires, heat nozzle pulling off the print if you don't level the bed right, nozzle clogging, too many parts to assemble, even with the bltouch sensor it still didn't level properly and last uses twice as much pla to support some prints than a resin printer would.
I was only able to print about few things, the preset models that come with the USB, and 3 masks; a scaled model of it, a large one and a successful print. The rest never turn out right
Would lowering the first layer cure time also make it easier to remove prints from a more traditional bed like the Saturn? Nice detail mentioning the setting name in each of the major slicers.
Yeah that is certainly worth trying
Affirmative, however I recommend setting up a couple of tests as if you go too low you won’t be adhering anything to your bed. I HIGHLY recommend enabling rafts as they give you a nice point of leverage to slide your spatula/scraper under to pop off your print. Should you be using a pre supported file from lychee (has a bunch of lines that the supports are built on) or anything that sits flush to the build plate: wrap it in a plastic baggie and let it sit for 30-45mins in a freezer, should come off with little to no problem
Uncle Jessy, I've stumbled onto a few of your videos and I love your style! Very informative and humorous. Get an uniterreuptable power supply for yrour printers!
You say high grit in this video. Do you mean lower grit? (More abrasive) Also, if you could; I've seen a lot of people basically beat their build plate to remove prints and it's rock solid. I tried that on my Mars 3 plate and threw my level off instantly. Is it just the plate for the Mars 3 or do I really need to crank down the bolts?
ahhh sweet, thanks for the shout out!
Another great video! Thanks a lot! A little off topic but any chance of getting some insight into the upcoming Elegoo Mars 3 DLP that has been hinted at? Thanks again, love your channel
Thank You Uncle Jessy!
Thx! This works perfect to me, now i getting holes on My prints :( for the plattern
i do not seem to have an issue with build plate adhesion but when i do print half the time i have a amazing print and half the time i have amazing supports with no print.
Funny... I am printing bigger things than you with my mega, and I never had a fail and also never had to sand the build plate! So it is also easy to remove. Same as you, I'm not using the raft to not have a huge first layers surfaces. My first prints were not sticking to the plate then I used 45sec first layer and it was done 😅
I have only been able to print two objects with my Halot one, will try leveling the bed next, as I can't get ANY sticking to the bed. Just makes coins on the FEP.
Hi, you should try a Oscillating Multitool with a Scraper Blade. Works wonder’s for me without having stuff flying around.
I wonder if a flex plate with a matching hole pattern would help to remove the parts on the Jupiter. Also maybe only use opaque resins with the printer might prevent curing within the holes.
Just use a raft on perforated build plates, works great.
Yeah that still didn’t help with a bunch of cured resin getting stuck in the holes but that for sure can also help
@@UncleJessy I've never had that happen on my Transform, im using the default Transform print settings.
Phrozen shared a raft STL in the Mega 8K Facebook group which has the holes sculpted into it. Haven't tried it yet but being able to skirt around the holes is a cool idea. I'd love to see Chitubox or Lychee modify their software profile for machines with perforated plates to show where the holes are in the view and even provide an option for avoiding those holes with auto-supports. (assuming Lychee is ever able to support the Mega's encrypted board)
Just received my first ever 3D printer (of any kind)…it’s an Elegoo Saturn. Unboxing it right now 😬
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Soooo yeah, got no ideal what I’m doing…gonna hold my breath and jump straight into the deep end 😳
I think I want a magnetic flex plate though…right??
Have you thought about using Neverwet and masking to bottom of the build plate? That might stop the cured resin from sticking in the holes. Plus, if you spray the top of the build plate it might make clean up easier.
My brain pictured Dennis instantly, even before the clip 😂
I'd imagine that a large raft under all your supports would make it easier to come off as one piece.
Instead of having to chisel each one off individually.
Some of the pre-supported models I've recently done have this.
I'm doing it on my own supports now too!
Literally just tried my first print ever, and it ended up just printing the first layer basically directly on the screen..
But it didn't stick to the build plate..
And then trying to save the resin ended up spilling some of it. It was a huge mess and honestly quite frustrating..
But from what I'm getting from both this video and quick research is I might need to tweak my first layer exposure time..
And something else to do with
The Saturn 2. Not being calibrated correctly..
Thought I might want holes in my Saturns buildplates, glad I went with whambam’s instead
Though small items or small supports stick way too well to the whambams and require sharp scraper
Definitely lightly sand the whambams or no sticky
We, at the Nutley household, can no longer say "tools" without doing the whole Dennis thing!
Hey Uncle Jesse, you need a UPS, uninterruptable power source, can get them from Staples
Great info!
any insights why my prints come out with no infill? despite of deleting internal faces in Blender or 'hollowing' with a very high thickness either in Chitubox or Lychee
If I put my exposure time too high, will I still risk it not sticking to the build plate?
Guys after cleaning your Build plate with isopropyl alcohol, spray some window cleaner on your build plate and wipe off till it's dry. I find it works for me.
Always Sunny reference,.... you got a like from me, haha
Sounds like you need to get a UPS for your active printers. (universal power supply) basically a surge protector with a giant battery attached to it
How is the un-holey Jupiter build plate working for you? Because after this video, I would really rather not have the perforated variety.
Are you going you going to experiment with splitting the difference since the last did have adhesion issue?
Yeah I’m going to play around with it more. I’ve gone from the original 40 to 30 and now playing around in the 20s to see what still works
Uninterruptable power supplies (ups) are not expensive and should be used on ALL of your electronic devices. They'll save your prints during power outages, as well as clean up the electricity going to the devices while power is on.
Thanks for the vid. I've done my homework and had several great prints with my new Mars 3 Pro. However, my first print after installing a Wham Bam flex plate, it failed to adhere to it. I sanded the new flex plate and just paused to check my test print and it hanging nicely.
A heat gun is key for removal. Especially for strong semi-flexible resins.
Can you do a video what to do when prints regularly fall off their supports (e.g. Supports print perfectly, but the actual print sticks to the FEP and falls off its supports)?
There are 2 common reasons for this. The first is it is not properly supported. The second is the exposure time isnt enough, so the supports are two weak to take the strain. add stronger/heavy supports to the areas which have the largest amount of additional material above them, and increase exposure times slowly (to dial it into your resin. The temperature you keep the room, and the humidity also factor into your proper exposure times...so its largely printing calibration files until you get it dialed in. I like the Siryatech resin calibration file.)
I had this weird problem on my Anycubic photon mono 2, the base few layers, the float, burn in just fine, but then the supports don't burn in. And, not all of them, only in a certain area which seems to be random for every print. I'm guessing it's the leveling problem but i leveled my plate just last night and i still had the same problem.
Hmm I have an Elegoo Mars Pro 3, first half-dozen prints went off without a hitch, next dozen jsut keep failing (even ones that printed right before). The don't fail to adhere to the bed as much as they -- at some point stop adhering to the supports or adhere to the tank maybe? Or they twist? Trying to print a set of D6 (six-sided dice) they start out in one orientation and then its like the print begints to rotate? IDK. its a learning process.
If youre still having trouble with getting prints to stick, it might be the resin is expired. I just had a string of parts that wouldnt stick, turns out the resin i was using was over a year expired. Got new resin and everything printed fine
Thanks for the advice
Great video Jessy
btw sandblastind teh hbuild plate would be better much better texture after that instead of uneven sanding with paper
Maybe install multiple wham bam flex plates in the mega 8k?
what happens when there is a power outage and still want to continue from the paused point of the print? can you please help or give an idea as to how to go about the process. Tnanks.
I always print with 10 burn in layers at 17.5sec. Never had it not stick and comes off quite easily
I just started and I tried twice now but it's not even trying to stick to the build plate... it's just printing on the bottom of the tray... I'll try the sanding thing unless I should try to up the bottom exposure time first? I'm using Standard Photopolymer Resin - black
So what resin do you use for helmets and face masks. They smell bad even after they're printed, so what do you do to deal with the smell?
I have a model I have been trying to print for two weeks, I have changed every calibration and I get fail after fail! Is it possible there is just models that are impossible to print?
What Grit sandpaper were you using? - I didn't hear it mentioned.
Hey Jesse, thanks for the sanding tip. I'm looking at getting a large printer for doing stuff similar to your helmet. I can only afford one large printer. Would you recommend the Phrozen Mega 8k that you used in this video or wait and see how the Jupiter performs after beta? Thanks for the content.
The mega 8K does print great but man are those holes messy when it comes to cleaning. The Jupiter wont be out till next year but has the awesome resin auto feeding feature
@@UncleJessy Thank you for the info. I'm in no rush so I'll be waiting then to see how they stack up against each other as they revise their products. Thank you for helping the community make educated decisions on these products.
after a good clean in IPA soak it in warm water for 30min to soften the resin, I find most of my prints pop off with only a little bit of work. Now, mine are minis, I've not printed anything that big.
Hey Jesse looks like I'm first. I'd love a video on temperature impacts on resin and temperature control.
Yeah , I was just thinking I should have mentioned that as well. Can look at doing a followup because for sure cold print room will also impact your resin 3D Print experience
@@UncleJessy Thats what I'm starting to battle as I set up my basement print room and the seasons cooling down.
@@UncleJessy this all back my other comment about the various ptc heater builds out there for printers!
Hi Uncle Jessey; what is the brand of this printer . The bed looks huge . And how long it takes to print 3 inches object? If you have a link to the purchase page please share
Thank you.
hi, yesterday I used the mars 5 ultra for the first time with the elegoo 8k smoky white resin, but unfortunately after a few millimeters the base of the test tower, present in pen drive, detaches from the printing surface and attaches to the fep. 😔 You know the reason? Thank you.
I have an issue with an existing file printing that used to not stick and now it does. My suspicion is temperature. The room is like 63F
very cool
Why not use a solid plate? Because of the size and weight?
Do you have a video on how to best print thick minis that won't leak resin later? I have some solid 28MM tanks I have printed and everything is good so far but I want to make ssure I am doing everything I should be.
How about a video about getting my prints off the bed lol. Seriously. They stick so good I can't get em off
How much is high grit sand paper? Are we talking about 480 or we talking about something like 12000? Its all relative, please more detail
Im using photon mono 4K and i found same problem when using standard resin such as Sunlu and Anycubic. I found my prints wont stick on the build plate. If i print for example 4 objects then the 2 objects wont stick on the build plate but it sticked on in the vat. But the 2 remaining objects prints fine.
Any solutions ? Thanks
So, I have leveled and leveled and leveled, and my printer is level, as well as the toolbox it's on, I use ptfe spray, and I have the bottom layers, all of 8 of them, curing at the longest time my printer says it can. And they still don't stick. What should I do now? Buy some sandpaper?
SO umm.. what if you have the weird issue that you get inconsistant sticking? Like some prints with the same settings, same resin will stick fine, others a little TOO fine, and others not at all? Even doing the same print files it feels almost hit or miss?
How high up can you go on base layer setting? At what point is bottom layer exposure time too hight?
Invest in UPS. Businesses get rid of out of warranty Uninterrupted Power Supply all the time. For most, you can just replace battery and use it like new.
my prints are stuck to the build plate so hard i can hit them with a hammer and they wont come off, any tips to make them not stick to the bed as well? is my bed maybe too close for my first layer? ive already tried decreasing bottom layer cure time from 60 seconds to 40 seconds
Hi I am having trouble with it sticking to the resin vat. It builds 4 or 5 mm then sticks to the vat.
Looking for a Wax Printer for Jewelry casting. Any suggestions? I’m currently using the Elegoo Mars with Power WAX resin, but looking to upgrade.
It also depends on ambient temperature and temp of the resin.