Thanks a ton for the fork-style connection demonstration. I'm just getting into all this for a household project, and will need to use 10ga to mitigate voltage drop between the power supply my Dig-Quad.
Just wanted to say thanks mostly for the great products, have many dig-quad's I have ordered in the past and recently got an Octa. All these years I have been using the Ferrule crimps wrong all this time, have always crimped at the insulator side ha. Sometimes they would still come out and always wondered why haha. Thank you soooo much for showing the proper way to crimp them, no doubt all my connections will improve.
Thanks for the tips on wire ferrules and explaining which fuse to use for which power connection. Just finishing my permanent holiday lights with a dig-Octa with a power 7, this was very helpful.
I am setting up mine now on spring break for school we have 9 days off. Perfect timing. Thanks Get better we need more videos on Matrix setup Please. Can we update the Dig-2-go? Also how to wire up matrixes. Thanks for all you do......
Get well soon! Huge fan and always look forward to watching your great videos. I consider you to be one of the few I learn from around here. Many thanks for all the great content you put out there .
Note on the ferrules… (same applies to wago connectors etc…) strip the cable and never touch the copper , no need to twist anything. This is to prevent unnecessary future oxidation and also, NOT twisting the ferrules will make better contact with the stranded wires when you crimp down. Again, same with the wago connectors; I see lots of people doing the same mistake and then complain about connectors making bad contact.
Yeah I know that's the official way but sometimes it's just too hard to get them in without twisting, so I get what you are saying but yeah. Using the right size crimps I generally don't have an issue with them falling off. :)
Tools - I am just a home DIYer yet I really should invest in the crimping tools. The install won't be professional without these & if I invest in these then I might have to start a business installing this stuff.
Thanks for the video. I have a similar question to one below. You talk about adding a fuse to the lug at 44:15. Does this mean you need to add an additional fuse to the 60 amp fuse already there?
If you have the spare time and inclination, please would you do a video showing how to add a PIR sensor to a pre-assembled QuinLED-Dig-Uno and how to configure WLED to toggle a scene on/off?
Hi! First of all - Great content! Just ordered dig-octa with Powerboad 7HC version. My question is - what is the Best way to connect tripple-output Mean Well LRS600-5 to double-input Powerboard 7HC? Thanks a lot and keep going!
You can use 2 cables but best would be to make them as large diameter as possible, at least 2x 10AWG if you are really going near the 100Amps continous. Thicker is preferred but it's hard to find fork crimps in that size with an M4 screw opening.
Just received a Dig-Quad, absolutely amazing board! Thinking about buying another! Just nee to figure out how to use Q1 channel to use more strips. Again, though amazing board.
Thnx! For the Q1R just look up the GPIO in the pinout guide and that's it. It has a full level-shifter like all the other LED data ports just locked to a 249R resistor.
What you referring to regarding the size of the cable running to the lights, using larger diameter, cable, with you stuck down the size of the cable on that one in a junction box?
hey quindor , i appreciate your videos and sharing of knowloedge. i need a kit of wire ferulles of various sizes like yours, is aliexpress the best price for those types of things still? cheers
Super interesting! Especially the last board where you can do 100Amps, wow! Does that all pass through the pcb ? I recently had to create first pcb that had to be able to do 15A, went with four layer, 2oz, all current carrying pins connected on all layers, it warmed up right according to what i read it should. Am just still wondering, I now made the holes for the pins that carry most current without thermal relief, thinking i wanted as much copper as possible, but it makes soldering not so great :) what would you say, just have the thermal relief ? maybe got some other tips ? anyway, thanks for the video!
Yeah that took a bit of testing and I use some special assembly techniques in the factory to make sure it's done right and it can handle it. Some of the testing you can find in a few livestreams! But yes, 100Amp through the PCB and fully fused input and outputs.
Is there a design tool available somewhere? Or can I talk to someone. Would love to have guidance with a project I'm working on for our stairs, and want to avoid having to tinker with it later - so getting the right equipment and calling will be important
Greetings from South Africa! If things work out, I would love to get a couple of these in a few months. Quick question, does the international shop use couriers like DHL for door to door? Asking since our regular post office is basically a black hole for valuables. 😢
I hope you get well soon Quindor. Nice explanation of the connections. On the octa’s why not have an amp meter instead of volts. I’m sure the bulk of us have multimeters to set up our systems thus not needing a voltmeter. On a quad, can heat cause flickering? I have one set up and it has started flickering after a few mins of running. I have checked the resistors, but neither position fixes it and I have checked the connection which seem tight. Any ideas? Again get well soon!
An AMP meter is much more involved in implementing and especially with 50Amps or a 100Amps it would add significant cost, board space, etc. and even then it's a bit hard to achieve with that much power involved, volt meter is simple and especially if you are running multiple powerboards with different voltages still a nice addition I think.
Hello, I have the Dig-Quad v.3.5r3 and the max current displayed is 30A. However I have 10 meter 144led/m in 4 strips - 2x2m and 2x3m. To best of my knowledge the max current or a 1m 144LEDs is arround 6 A, which makes my setup arround 60Amps. Should I directly connect my power lines, not using the Dig-Quad for the power distribution?
It depends, are you also doing like 6 injection lines to get the power to the strip? Otherwise you might still be well under the 30A continous. Exceeding the 30A doesn't mean anything blows up the board just gets a bit hotter and you'll see a bit more voltage drop on the board itself. Distribution from PSU can be done but then please add your own fuse per injection line. Otherwise stepping up to a Dig-Octa would fix it too, those can easily do 50A continous.
@@IntermitTech Thank you for the advice. I do not have the time to order the Dig Octa as I am based in Europe and I already have the Dig Quad. Yes, I have power injections in every 1 meters and my strip is SK6812 WW 144/m. Of cource I do not plan to run the full strip at max power all the time, but it seems I will run 2 of the strips through the Dig-Quad and the rest via external fuses.
Well you can run more then 2 it's just that everything together is a bit much. And as said, you will have to split the data line so one output doesn't handle more then 600 LEDs. Pull 2-wire 18AWG with gnd+data for each of those.
For all of these boards the limits are discussed in amps with the feed voltage being 5, 12, or 24 volts. I would expect the limits to be expressed in watts instead of amps as 10 amps at 5 volts is vastly different than 10 amps at 24 volts. The bus fuses used to protect the circuits will melt at a certain wattage rating regardless of voltage. The "amp" rating printed on a fuse is relative to the voltage the fuse is designed for. So my question is are these boards really amp limited regardless of voltage or is the amperage rating relative to a reference voltage? Thanks
It's really only about the Amps, the fuses are rated up to 32v so they are good for the same range as the boars being 5v-24v. Wattage can be easily calculated by multiplying the Amps times Voltage, but in the end the Amps only matter in regard to everything in the design needing to handle it, if it can support the given voltage ofcourse. So if I mention it will do 10Amps it will do that at 5v, 12v or 24v (or whatever I mentioned the board is rated for). The voltage rating on the fuse is always a max voltage rating because of spark gap. Exceed that voltage and the spark gap might not be wide enough to extinguish the arc during a fault condition. Lower voltages are thus no problem to use. The Amp rating also stays the same, 10A at 5v is still 10A at 24v, the wattage doesn't matter in that sense. Only adhering to both V and A.
So what are these boards for exactly? Are these for big projects like displays? Is this overkill for things like scale models that would probably only use a meter of LEDs? For example. If I had a model I was lighting with 5V LEDs and a Meter or a 5V led strip. Is that a project I would need this for some reason and not just wire everything to an on/off switch and a power input?
Well digital LEDs are a bit harder to control then just on / off or dimming them, they can all be individually controlled and that's what these boards so in varying scale. For such a small strip a dig2go would be easy to use and a great fit for instance!
I have a question. For the 60 you keep saying we need to put in a fuse. Doesn't this already have the fuse right above it? If not can you please tell me what fuse I need?
I want to power between 650-700 LEDs using 144 LEDs/m for a project. I’m brand new and have no idea what my best options are. I want to use the light from the LEDs in a display case for baseballs. But I want to use the LEDs not just as lighting but also as a led scrolling message board. I also want to be able to segregate areas with different colors in a grid style pattern. I know it possible but I’m clueless. HELP?
Just 2 bought 2 Octa brain board and Octa power 7HC and both brain board failed to connect to wi-fi, no blue LED indicator on brainboard for witeless connection,also LED strips wont lit when connected. I have 12V psu and 12v pixels ws2811. I am new here and need help please?
Well sure, except this all comes with bare wires and no set connection standard except the JST-SM on the LED strip. How do you suggest to connect the rest like the input 10AWG from meanwell PSU to the board?
Very frustrated. How do you find decent pixels. Most of them are junk. And what is with this crap of not identifying the input and output sides? Positive wire side is always suppose to be red, and ground black. No one adheres to this standard.
I would have never tried doubling up. Thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks a ton for the fork-style connection demonstration. I'm just getting into all this for a household project, and will need to use 10ga to mitigate voltage drop between the power supply my Dig-Quad.
Just wanted to say thanks mostly for the great products, have many dig-quad's I have ordered in the past and recently got an Octa. All these years I have been using the Ferrule crimps wrong all this time, have always crimped at the insulator side ha. Sometimes they would still come out and always wondered why haha. Thank you soooo much for showing the proper way to crimp them, no doubt all my connections will improve.
Thanks for the tips on wire ferrules and explaining which fuse to use for which power connection. Just finishing my permanent holiday lights with a dig-Octa with a power 7, this was very helpful.
I am setting up mine now on spring break for school we have 9 days off. Perfect timing.
Thanks Get better we need more videos on Matrix setup Please. Can we update the Dig-2-go? Also how to wire up matrixes. Thanks for all you do......
Awesome timing! Yes you can update the dig2go, if you want a binary with everything in there take a look at install.quinled.info
Get well soon! Huge fan and always look forward to watching your great videos. I consider you to be one of the few I learn from around here. Many thanks for all the great content you put out there .
Note on the ferrules… (same applies to wago connectors etc…) strip the cable and never touch the copper , no need to twist anything. This is to prevent unnecessary future oxidation and also, NOT twisting the ferrules will make better contact with the stranded wires when you crimp down. Again, same with the wago connectors; I see lots of people doing the same mistake and then complain about connectors making bad contact.
Yeah I know that's the official way but sometimes it's just too hard to get them in without twisting, so I get what you are saying but yeah. Using the right size crimps I generally don't have an issue with them falling off. :)
Tools - I am just a home DIYer yet I really should invest in the crimping tools. The install won't be professional without these & if I invest in these then I might have to start a business installing this stuff.
Thanks for the video. I have a similar question to one below. You talk about adding a fuse to the lug at 44:15. Does this mean you need to add an additional fuse to the 60 amp fuse already there?
Ah no no, just when adding the cable not to forget to put it all together on that lug. The 1 fuse is enough.
@Great! Thanks for the quick reply and for the great videos.
If you have the spare time and inclination, please would you do a video showing how to add a PIR sensor to a pre-assembled QuinLED-Dig-Uno and how to configure WLED to toggle a scene on/off?
Hi!
First of all - Great content!
Just ordered dig-octa with Powerboad 7HC version.
My question is - what is the Best way to connect tripple-output Mean Well LRS600-5 to double-input Powerboard 7HC?
Thanks a lot and keep going!
You can use 2 cables but best would be to make them as large diameter as possible, at least 2x 10AWG if you are really going near the 100Amps continous. Thicker is preferred but it's hard to find fork crimps in that size with an M4 screw opening.
Just received a Dig-Quad, absolutely amazing board! Thinking about buying another! Just nee to figure out how to use Q1 channel to use more strips. Again, though amazing board.
Thnx! For the Q1R just look up the GPIO in the pinout guide and that's it. It has a full level-shifter like all the other LED data ports just locked to a 249R resistor.
Thank you. Great overview and lots of helpful information. I hope you get better soon.
Thank you!
What you referring to regarding the size of the cable running to the lights, using larger diameter, cable, with you stuck down the size of the cable on that one in a junction box?
hey quindor , i appreciate your videos and sharing of knowloedge. i need a kit of wire ferulles of various sizes like yours, is aliexpress the best price for those types of things still?
cheers
That's where I get them yeah, I have links on my tools and equipment page. But Amazon and such likely has them plenty too.
Would love a 12v dig2go, perhaps even with a compatible wall wart og built into a wall wart.
Super interesting! Especially the last board where you can do 100Amps, wow! Does that all pass through the pcb ? I recently had to create first pcb that had to be able to do 15A, went with four layer, 2oz, all current carrying pins connected on all layers, it warmed up right according to what i read it should. Am just still wondering, I now made the holes for the pins that carry most current without thermal relief, thinking i wanted as much copper as possible, but it makes soldering not so great :) what would you say, just have the thermal relief ? maybe got some other tips ? anyway, thanks for the video!
Yeah that took a bit of testing and I use some special assembly techniques in the factory to make sure it's done right and it can handle it. Some of the testing you can find in a few livestreams! But yes, 100Amp through the PCB and fully fused input and outputs.
I love ferrules for control work, but not for power. I use silver solder personally.. Just a thought...
Is there a design tool available somewhere? Or can I talk to someone. Would love to have guidance with a project I'm working on for our stairs, and want to avoid having to tinker with it later - so getting the right equipment and calling will be important
Best place would be the Discord server, we can point you to the right articles and look over your plans to help out.
Would there be a way to control the DigUno or quad with a switch or zoned quality remote of some sort?
Hi, which of the QuinLEDs have the Tx PIN exposed, so I could Install a DMX Enabled Firmware and have a MAX485 for DMX/RS485 shifter on Tx
how do you assemble the plastic enclosure????
Greetings from South Africa! If things work out, I would love to get a couple of these in a few months. Quick question, does the international shop use couriers like DHL for door to door? Asking since our regular post office is basically a black hole for valuables. 😢
Worldwide can use DHL or FedEX no problem!
@@IntermitTech Awesome news, thanks!
If my power supply wire has a copper ground, should that be connected to a digiquad or higher?
I hope you get well soon Quindor.
Nice explanation of the connections. On the octa’s why not have an amp meter instead of volts. I’m sure the bulk of us have multimeters to set up our systems thus not needing a voltmeter.
On a quad, can heat cause flickering? I have one set up and it has started flickering after a few mins of running. I have checked the resistors, but neither position fixes it and I have checked the connection which seem tight.
Any ideas? Again get well soon!
An AMP meter is much more involved in implementing and especially with 50Amps or a 100Amps it would add significant cost, board space, etc. and even then it's a bit hard to achieve with that much power involved, volt meter is simple and especially if you are running multiple powerboards with different voltages still a nice addition I think.
Silly question for anyone if they see this which they won't could you take fork connectors and solder them on the led + - ?
Hello, I have the Dig-Quad v.3.5r3 and the max current displayed is 30A. However I have 10 meter 144led/m in 4 strips - 2x2m and 2x3m.
To best of my knowledge the max current or a 1m 144LEDs is arround 6 A, which makes my setup arround 60Amps.
Should I directly connect my power lines, not using the Dig-Quad for the power distribution?
It depends, are you also doing like 6 injection lines to get the power to the strip? Otherwise you might still be well under the 30A continous.
Exceeding the 30A doesn't mean anything blows up the board just gets a bit hotter and you'll see a bit more voltage drop on the board itself.
Distribution from PSU can be done but then please add your own fuse per injection line. Otherwise stepping up to a Dig-Octa would fix it too, those can easily do 50A continous.
@@IntermitTech
Thank you for the advice. I do not have the time to order the Dig Octa as I am based in Europe and I already have the Dig Quad.
Yes, I have power injections in every 1 meters and my strip is SK6812 WW 144/m.
Of cource I do not plan to run the full strip at max power all the time, but it seems I will run 2 of the strips through the Dig-Quad and the rest via external fuses.
Well you can run more then 2 it's just that everything together is a bit much. And as said, you will have to split the data line so one output doesn't handle more then 600 LEDs. Pull 2-wire 18AWG with gnd+data for each of those.
For all of these boards the limits are discussed in amps with the feed voltage being 5, 12, or 24 volts. I would expect the limits to be expressed in watts instead of amps as 10 amps at 5 volts is vastly different than 10 amps at 24 volts. The bus fuses used to protect the circuits will melt at a certain wattage rating regardless of voltage. The "amp" rating printed on a fuse is relative to the voltage the fuse is designed for. So my question is are these boards really amp limited regardless of voltage or is the amperage rating relative to a reference voltage? Thanks
It's really only about the Amps, the fuses are rated up to 32v so they are good for the same range as the boars being 5v-24v. Wattage can be easily calculated by multiplying the Amps times Voltage, but in the end the Amps only matter in regard to everything in the design needing to handle it, if it can support the given voltage ofcourse. So if I mention it will do 10Amps it will do that at 5v, 12v or 24v (or whatever I mentioned the board is rated for).
The voltage rating on the fuse is always a max voltage rating because of spark gap. Exceed that voltage and the spark gap might not be wide enough to extinguish the arc during a fault condition. Lower voltages are thus no problem to use. The Amp rating also stays the same, 10A at 5v is still 10A at 24v, the wattage doesn't matter in that sense. Only adhering to both V and A.
@@IntermitTech Thank you for the reply. Guess that helps me decide between 5v and 12v.
Hey I was on the store site and everything is out of stock.
Any idea when the units will be available?
We just got everything in stock at worldwide again after running dry for a bit and are preparing a new shipment to the US so tbst will be a few weeks!
So what are these boards for exactly? Are these for big projects like displays? Is this overkill for things like scale models that would probably only use a meter of LEDs? For example. If I had a model I was lighting with 5V LEDs and a Meter or a 5V led strip. Is that a project I would need this for some reason and not just wire everything to an on/off switch and a power input?
Well digital LEDs are a bit harder to control then just on / off or dimming them, they can all be individually controlled and that's what these boards so in varying scale. For such a small strip a dig2go would be easy to use and a great fit for instance!
Where do we get your products in the United States if drzss is always out of stock?
DrZZs is still the best place, we're trying to get him new stock soon. Otherwise the worldwide store.
WW store is the way I go. you just have to be patient on shipping time, and price.
That's my 2 cents
📬
I have a question. For the 60 you keep saying we need to put in a fuse. Doesn't this already have the fuse right above it? If not can you please tell me what fuse I need?
Which timestamp do you mean?
Timestamps 43:08, 44:10
?? Do I need to go buy these fuses? If so any recommendations?
I want to power between 650-700 LEDs using 144 LEDs/m for a project. I’m brand new and have no idea what my best options are. I want to use the light from the LEDs in a display case for baseballs. But I want to use the LEDs not just as lighting but also as a led scrolling message board. I also want to be able to segregate areas with different colors in a grid style pattern. I know it possible but I’m clueless. HELP?
Hi. When you are saying 16 gauge wire do you are referring to a 1.5mm wire?
About 1.3mm2 but yes. I generally usr this: www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/awg-to-mm.html
Just 2 bought 2 Octa brain board and Octa power 7HC and both brain board failed to connect to wi-fi, no blue LED indicator on brainboard for witeless connection,also LED strips wont lit when connected. I have 12V psu and 12v pixels ws2811. I am new here and need help please?
Please come to the Discord sever, we'll get you up and running!
@@IntermitTech signed up to discord, what to do next?
@henrytimoteo did you follow the link on quinled.info ? There is a troubleshooting channel, post some info and photos there.
Instead of ferrules, why not just tin the wire?
connectors, what's the idea behind them? as an electrician, source is female and the load is male, that's how i connect my led's
Well sure, except this all comes with bare wires and no set connection standard except the JST-SM on the LED strip. How do you suggest to connect the rest like the input 10AWG from meanwell PSU to the board?
Hello, do you have pre-assembled boards for the ws2815 12v lights?
Dig Dig Dig ... *feels sorry for analog* ;-)
It's coming, hold on a little bit longer!
Very frustrated. How do you find decent pixels. Most of them are junk. And what is with this crap of not identifying the input and output sides? Positive wire side is always suppose to be red, and ground black. No one adheres to this standard.
Yikes! Power Board 7HC instructions are incomplete. What power supply do you us? Why only two lugs? What fuse are you talking about?
Did you find the articles? They should describe all these things: quinled.info/quinled-dig-octa/