Hi Scott, thank you so much for the video. I downloaded Sony's Imaging Edge software...what a game changer. I took an ISO 8000 image into it, it came out like an ISO 200 shot. Then reduced it again in LRC. I learned more from this video than the 100's I've watched on TH-cam...THANK YOU 🙂
Hi Mark. Good stuff. It is amazing what you can do with the native software and people often assume it's useless. Glad you found it useful and thanks for watching.
Is that Sony Imaging Edge decodes the sony RAW files same as free Capture One version for Sony? I can see on the Sony website that this is recommended software for the Sony cameras, however I am not sure if any Sony software is compatible with any Sony cameras (like my old a5000)? Thanks
Hi all. My first ever photo editing video. These are things that I do regularly that are a little bit different to what I see others doing - so hopefully you find that interesting. Let me know your thoughts please. I've got another couple of editing vids planned on noise at high ISOs and my overall workflow. Thanks for watching.
Do more, please. Another photographer I follow shows how he shoots the images he then edits at the end of the video. Usually he just chooses one that we watched him take. You do you so well! I’m sure you’ll come up with a great format!
Since I’ve gone without Lightroom subscription, i considered Cannon’s editing software. Now i understood why my damn photos looked like crap in Lightroom. Learned so much watching your educational videos I’m actually considering going into photography more and more.
I loved your tip about using your camera manufacturer’s editing tool with really noisy images because I’ve never even tried that with my Sony. Really useful! I’ve been using Lightroom for years and often been frustrated using the spot removal tool but the specific way you suggested using it seems to give better results. So a big thank you Scott - proof that even after years of use it is still possible to pick up new Lightroom tips.
Thanks Stephen. Yes, I think people often dismiss the camera manufacturer software because it is not as advanced as others, but what it does do, it does really well. Much appreciated, thanks for watching.
This is a very good video, thanks for sharing. Will definitely be looking at Canons software and the histogram for my editing workflow. Your sound output could use some tweaking please if that is possible
Hi Scott. Absolutely brilliant! I’ve been using Lr since the first public beta (approx 2004 I think) and PS 7.0 which had early version of ACR. So for close to 20 years I had no idea that the histogram could be edited directly. It had also been my assumption that the OEM editor would be trash. Today was a complete game changer, thank you.
Hi Gord. Happy to help. Generally I think those OEM editors aren't as advanced as the third party software. There's a process called demosaicing though - where the editor has to decode the raw file. The OEMs have the advantage they know what the demosaicing process is for their own sensors, whereas the third parties have to reverse engineer it. The result of it is that the OEMs are often better at the really basic stuff, but they don't have all that advanced technology that the OEMs have. It's worth playing around with your manufacturer's software to see what you can achieve in conjunction with your third party software. Thanks for watching.
Wow Scott, Ive been binge watching your videos. After years of watching many other photography videos trying to work out how to get that specific look I've been after, I have learnt more from you in the past few days than from any of the others. Im so glad I found your channel, so very very informative and helpful. Awesome work Scott, just awesome.
It's always fun learning the ins and outs of peoples creative processes. We tend to do more video editing, but Courtney has been enjoying mastering some photo editing as well. Really well done and insightful video! Thanks for sharing, we're excited to see more!
Appreciate the tip about using the histogram to adjust image . Your example of adding a vignette is based on the subject in center of frame, I much prefer using the radial filter for adding vignette's, as you can use it on subject anywhere in frame. That or creating vignette in PS using lasso tool, and then in properties panel feather it, or use gaussian blur. Enjoying your channel !!
Yes, for sure, there are lots of way to add a vignette, I don't always do it that way, but most of mine do have some sort of subtle vignette on them. Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much, Scott. This video was highly educational and inspiring at the same time. Very insightful and well explained. I hope to see more videos like this in the future. Well done! Have a fantastic weekend! -Jody
Thank you for your lovely comment Jody. I certainly have more videos like this planned. I'm very grateful for you continuing to watch. Have a great weekend.
Thank you so much for this great video. I have been using Lightroom for 20 years and although I am happy with my results I must say your tips will make the process simpler and quicker. I enjoy your channel and look forward to the next one.
Interesting tips there. I will definitely look into the Canon editing sw. The camera manufacturers must definitely know their own raw files better than the third party software companies. Even that Adobe and Topaz and others does a very decent job. Looking forward to the next videos covering these topics. And your other walks on the wild side... Wishing you a lovely Sunday.
Absolutely fabulous video! Thank you. I’m looking forward to trying the Sony software with my images. I’m curious after you finish in Sony editor how you then get the file into Lightroom. I’m looking forward to your next video.
Hi Mark. That's definitely a good thing to do. I often like to go back to old files to see if I can do something with them whenever I learn a new editing technique. Glad you're enjoying the videos. Thanks for watching.
Now this helped me get around a brick wall I've been hitting lately with my Marsh Harrier photography, specifically the tip to try processing in Sony imaging application. Thanks so much for this video, I've subscribed for future content. Best regards and if I ever see you I owe you a beer thankyou Scott. James
Thanks so much for this video! I don't like editing and see it as a "necessary evil". But, thanks to the eye-opener about camera specific software, I actually feel motivated to re-edit some high ISO-meganoise photo's! Thanks for all the tips and please keep posting more video's!
Hi, i just came across your channel and i'm happy and learning a lot of new things from you. Love your content and the way you teach us. Love from Pakistan 🇵🇰
Wonderful. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos and I hope you can use some of this to make beautiful photos of all your wildlife in Pakistan. Thank you for watching. Best wishes from the UK.
Really enjoyed your voeden Scott. Specifically using the histogram and the tip to use the manufacturers software. When I first uploaded my canon R5 pics into LR I was horrified by the amount of noise. I have been using DxO since then which is a great help. Will certainly check out the Canon software 😉
This was so helpful. I’m not sure how to find the manufacturer editing software. Also, that feathering out that blade of grass was super helpful as I could never figure out how to use that tool properly. I have a photo I can practice with. As always….great video!
Thanks Tamara. The Nikon software is called NX Studio, so if you just Google that you should be able to download it. Good luck with your photo editing. Thanks for continuing to watch.
Been into my photography for many years now and have watched tonnes of tips and tricks. Learnt way more valuable tips from your videos than I have from hours on other channels. Thank you for sharing. Out of curiosity which laptop do you use for your photo editing please?
Hi Myles, glad the videos are helpful. I use a few different machines - the one you saw in this video was an HP Envy 17 (which is a bit old now and due for an upgrade), but it's the one I usually take with me wherever I am, to edit on the go. I also have a desktop that I use when I'm printing and another laptop that I use solely for editing videos, which consumes much more processing power than photo editing. Thanks for watching.
I work directly on the histogram as well...and it's a good tip, and demonstration you do here. Curiously I've watched video from another "famous" youtuber who explicitly ignores, and even collapses the histogram when editing...never understood, and certainly didn't agree with his thinking in doing that.
Hi. Completely agree. I even see people who put a video of their face of the space the histogram occupies. It's the second most important thing on the screen, after the photo. I'm glad you found it interesting and thanks for watching.
Question: do you ever use in-camera lens/noise corrections, or leave it to native software later? Your expertise is great and on par with your approachability and accessibility. Thank you.
Thanks you so much Christopher. I don't use the in-camera noise corrections and do it all in the photo editing afterwards. The reason I don't is that it can sometimes slow down the buffer and take the files longer to write to the memory card when you take a long burst of shots. If you use raw files, the in-camera noise reduction isn't usually automatically applied in photo editing software, but the software can read the noise reduction settings from the raw file and apply equivalent settings, so you may find it useful to use them.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide I'm asking you like it's some super secret handshake they don't want you to know! lol... please forgive my lack of other great resources. So, does this RAW "tag" for correction also apply to lens correction? And I'm guessing It would work best for noise proprietarily eg. Sony Camera + Sony lens > Sony edit.
@@ChristopherBattles Hi. I can't be sure about all raw file types - there are loads - but certainly the ones I'm familiar with, they have fields that flag whether in-camera lens distortion and chromatic aberration were applied. That being said, I don't think it is anything other than a binary yes/no to each of these. Whereas in post, you will be able to control the amount of distortion, for example. However, I would imagine that the more accurate corrections are done with the native software. (But I've never compared the two - it might be an interesting exercise).
Great video, thanks very much for sharing. One quick question on the use of manufacturer's editing tools. Are you using it for all photos before Lightroom or just those eg with a lot of noise? Thanks again.
Hi Steve. Not for all photos, but I do use it for a variety of reasons that aren't just about noise reduction. I think the key thing is that the manufacturers software can do some things better than the third party editing software - because they fully understand their own RAW files. But the third parties do a lot of things better than the manufacturer software because they invest in software develop so heavily. It's definitely worth trying the manufacturer software to see what you can get it to do.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Many thanks for taking the trouble to reply. It looks like Olympus Workspace is handling "noisy" RAWS from the new OM-1 better than Lightroom. The workflow won't be fun!
Thanks for another great video, very helpful. Look forward to others on editing. If you have any tips on setting an image up for printing , at a lab, I've tried a few and they haven't come back looking quite the same !
Hi Mike. Thanks for watching and the suggestion about a printing video. I'll have a think about whether I could do the subject justice. Printing is definitely an art. Typically your print file needs to be a little bit brighter than what you see on the screen, mainly because most screens are backlit and so the colours render brighter than they do on paper. You can buy a colour calibrated monitor which is designed to give you print colours, but unless you are doing a lot of printing it might not be worth it. A lot also depends on the pigments/inks that the lab uses. It is worth getting to know one lab well so that you get used to their methods and the results will become more predictable. And it's always worth ordering a test print first. Get them to send you some small versions of your photos printed on 5x6 or something like that - then you can tweak the print file until they get it right. And also check with the lab what their preferred file format is, and make sure you export the photo in that format.
A good tip a photographer gave me years ago- print a photo, then put it next to your screen and adjust the brightness, blue, green, red, contrast, till the screen looks the same as the print. It takes time but is worth it.
Hi Scott, thank you for the video. Really helpful information! One thing is still unclear to me. When adjusting the histogram how do you decide to drag either the highlights or whites and when the blacks or shadows. Especially because every histogram is different. What are you looking for in all the visible parts (grey area, colored areas) and where do you want them in the histogram.
Hi. That question could be a topic for a video itself, it would require quite a long answer. Do you ever refer to the histogram when you are out taking photos and adjust your settings specifically in order to alter the histogram? If you do, it's exactly the same method of thinking that you would follow in post processing. If you aren't referring to the histogram when you shoot, it would be worth learning about it. There are lots of videos on TH-cam about the histogram. I haven't made one on this topic yet, but I will add it to the list. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Damn, you respond fast Scott ;) Thanks for your answer! I always look on the histogram afterwards on the back of the camera. But I don't know histograms in enough detail. I will watch some video's on it.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Oh one more thing. Someone else said that when adjusting the blacks and whites, in Lightroom, you hold the ctrl/option key and drag until you see it is barely not under or overexposed. What do you think of this technique?
Hey Scott, I have some questions. 1) Do you put all of your images through sony's software first for initial edits? 2) Are there any downsides to that workflow regarding editing TIFF in lightroom? The internet seems to shun TIFF and I am wondering if there is something I am missing. I mean, if your basic edits are done in Sony's Editor then you do more advanced work in lightroom, then Photoshop, then topaz, does the image start to degrade or get compressed at any point before you export the final as a jpeg?
Hi Julian. I don't always put them through Sony's editor, but I often do - it depends what I'm trying to achieve. And you're right, the internet shuns TIFFs. But the internet is often wrong about things - particularly in photography. People just repeat the same old things they've heard in the past - many of which are no-longer true, or never were true in the first place. There are massive myths around TIFF files. I'm planning to make a video about it soon. Almost all my images have been TIFFs at some point. One of the great things about TIFFs is that it is a lossless file type - so it never degrades, not matter how many times you save it. Also it can save layers - which is really important. If you're working in photoshop, you basically have two choices if you want to save a file with all the layers info, so that you can come back to work on or tweak those layers later - PSD files or TIFFs. And PSDs can only be read by Adobe software. There are lots of other benefits to TIFFs, which I'll go into in the video. And most people use TIFFs all the time without even knowing it. If you ever send a photo from Lightroom to Photoshop, it's sent as a TIFF (Raw files can't carry your edits with them). If you send a photo from any photo editor to a plugin, such as Topaz - it's also sent as a TIFF. One drawback to TIFFs though. TIFFs only save data within the colour gamut. So if you've got any blown out highlights or crushed shadows, fix them before you first convert to TIFF. As long as you do this everything else will be great. The second drawback is the large file size, compared to lesser formats. (TIFFs are 16 bit files, which is even bigger than raw. Raw files are either 12 bit or 14 bit, depending on your camera. JPEGs are just 8 bit files). I hope that helps
Good video mate! Question... so if I use canon, I first would ' do basic retouch" in the Canon program, and then I would export it as a TIFF and I can do work on LR, (then PS), as if it was an original RAW? ( am I losing any quality from the original RAW doing it this way?) Thanks!
Hi. TIFF files retain all the data within the colour gamut. But you lose anything outside it. So if you had blown out highlights or crushed shadows at the point you converted to TIFF you would lose that data. So you would need to get the exposure right in your Canon software before converting to TIFF. Give it a try, but make sure you use the 16bit TIFF files. 8bit TIFFs aren’t much better than JPEGs.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide excellent! Thanks.. yo be honest I never thought of doing it this way, but it makes since as you said, the camera manufacturer knows better than anyone how yo manage their “ own” color science.. thanks again! Cheers! ;)
Just when you think you've seen all the photo editing videos...... I watched this and learned more. Great video! Silly question time, I've always converted my raw files to dng upon import to LR. Partly for space and partly because I've been led to believe the quality of the file remains the same or very similar to the original raw. What's your thoughts on this? I guess I can't then use the Nikon software with the Adobe dng, well I've not tried it anyway. I'm getting that feeling of dread when I think of the noisy images that are now forever DNGs and there was hope for them being far better and easier to recover 😥. Anyway great video and I'm really enjoying your channel. Cheers!
Thanks so much and that’s a great question. I think DNG would be good if the whole industry got behind it but I have compatibility issues with some software using DNGs. I use TIFF because it’s it works with my Sony software, Adobe and all the other pieces of software I use. One of the main reasons is that TIFFs maintain layers if I end up doing anything in photoshop. So I can bring up the image and adjust the layers at any point I want to re-edit it in the future. But TIFF files are huge. The other disadvantage of TIFFs is that although they don’t compress the image they don’t save any out of gamut info. I’ve tried DNGs in the past and found that the conversion is really slow - which is a pain if I have lots to edit. I guess if you save both your RAW and DNG then anything is possible but that kind of defeats the purpose of DNGs. As with all these things there is no right answer and a lot of it depends on the way you work. Thanks for watching and for the question.
Hi Dave, love your videos !!! It seems that the Sony editor allows you to save your edited image in DNG as well as TIFF. Have you had any experience saving as DNG in stead ?
Hi Kurt. What's the name of the software you're using. My Sony software only allows you to save export as raw or TIFF. (It's the Edit module of Sony Imaging Edge) I've got the latest version installed.
@WalksOnTheWildSide ha, ha, sorry my bad 🙄 There's no option to save in dng, but you can choose to save your edit as *.arw or choose output and save as tiff. I wonder if saving as Dng will be a better option in terms of filesize and further editing in Topaz Denoise ?
Ok, I understand. I've never tried this, but I have read blogs by other photographers who have. They seem to suggest that Topaz actually treats it as a TIFF file when importing DNGs and only converts back to DNG on export. This makes sense because DNG is an Adobe proprietary format. But I can't be sure as I haven't tried this myself. With giving it a go though.
Hi Peter. My view on calibrated monitors has changed over the years. I do use a desktop with calibrated monitor when I create print files, but most of the time I just use my laptop, which isn't calibrated. Partly this is because the laptop is portable and I can take it wherever I am. Partly, though, I don't think calibration is as important as it used to be. Almost everyone consumes photography digitally, whether here on TH-cam, websites, social media etc. and the colours are far more effected by the colour settings and white balance of the device they view it on. So, personally, I'm only bothered about colour calibration when I print. I want the print to look like the file I've edited. And printing is a bit of an artform. I know there are many others who will say differently and wax on about the importance of calibration - I just don't see it nowadays. Sorry for the long answer, but I wanted to explain fully. Thanks for watching and your question.
Hi Tyler. I’ve never used DXO Pure RAW but I know it has a good reputation. It would be interesting to see the differences but for me it’s about getting as clean an image into Lightroom or Photoshop as possible and then I finish it off in Topaz. I’m going to put out a video fairly soon on my whole workflow for high noise photos.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide You actually inspired me to make my own workflow video. th-cam.com/video/DPqTdB8IaAI/w-d-xo.html BTW I incorporated your tip about using a vignette to draw the eye to the subject (although not mentioned in my video). Really like it!
So this was quite interesting. I have a linear profile for my Nikon D850. Can you briefly explain what role that plays versus the profiles that are standard inside LR? Any real benefit to using a linear profile for the specific camera?
Hi Philip. In general colour profiles tell your image processing software about the depth of the colour. So things like contrast and saturation. I’m not a Nikon photographer myself and so have never used the Nikon linear profile. But I have read that lots of Nikon shooters like it. It provides much flatter information about the depth of colour than other profiles do. Most profiles will beef up the colours in the mid tones but less so in the highlights and shadows. The linear profile affects all tones equally. I hope that’s helpful, but it might be worth seeking some info from a Nikon photographer for more specifics. Thanks for watching.
Hi. There is no one group of settings to take insect and flower photos - it depends on so many factors. If you're loosing focus, it isn't about the settings - it's about your focusing technique. The best for insects and flowers is to use manual focus. The first section of this video should help you th-cam.com/video/30MX9G0H0tI/w-d-xo.html
Depending on your software you can save it as a TIFF or DNG file to take in to third party soft ware to continue your edits. TIFFs are really good, and are the format used when transferring photos between Lightroom and Photoshop.
Hi William. Happy to answer that, but do you mind if I ask you a question too - what's the interest in the laptop? I only ask you because I never get questions about this, but I've had three in the last 24 hours and wondering if there's a link? To get back to your question. I use a few different machines - the one you saw in this video was an HP Envy 17 (which is a bit old now and will be upgraded very soon), but it's the one I usually take with me wherever I am, to edit on the go. I also have a desktop that I use when I'm printing and another laptop that I use solely for editing videos, which consumes much more processing power than photo editing. Thanks for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Thanks for answering so very quickly !! Just trying to decide wether to stick to the Microsoft ecosystem or finally switch to a Mac. I'm trying to find a Laptop that will run Lightroom Classic, LRTimelapse & Photoshop right now. Your edit's in this video look very responsive (might of been done on your desktop system). Great video thanks for putting these learning tutorial together !!
Hi Phyllis. There have been a lot of updates to lightroom since this video was put out 15 months ago - so some things might look a little different. I was using Lightroom Classic. There are basically two types of Lightroom. Lightroom Classic and Lightroom CC (Creative Cloud). Classic is aimed at desktop users and CC is aimed at mobile users (tablets phones etc). But you can also use CC on a desktop. I hope that explains things.
Hi Vincent. It isn't embedded in the raw file, but if you save as a TIFF or DNG you can use it in other third party software. TIFF is the same file format used when transferring photos between lightroom and photoshop. I've recently made a video all about creative styles. th-cam.com/video/eWoGytzdGc4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Christian. I use Topaz for my noise reduction, which also works miracles. I've heard good things about Pure RAW too. The point of this wasn't really to do noise reduction though, it was to show the power of your native camera software. But I will be making another video all about noise. Thanks for watching.
Hm.. Adobe LR cant handle Sony´s profiles? Well not with my Sony. After the initial import all ARWs are set to Sony´s cam profile on my LR ... I know since i always switch it to my Color Checker profile for the shot ... Are you sure bout that? But i agree noise reduction in LR is really crap - compared to native/Topaz&co
Hi Gregor. If you click on the icon with four squares, in the top right hand corner of the basic panel in lightroom, it will open up the profile browser and should default to the profile you used. But you can also select any other profile. I think there might still be a couple of the profiles missing that Adobe haven't sorted yet, but most of them are there. Thanks for the question and for watching.
Hi Scott, thank you so much for the video. I downloaded Sony's Imaging Edge software...what a game changer. I took an ISO 8000 image into it, it came out like an ISO 200 shot. Then reduced it again in LRC. I learned more from this video than the 100's I've watched on TH-cam...THANK YOU 🙂
Hi Mark. Good stuff. It is amazing what you can do with the native software and people often assume it's useless. Glad you found it useful and thanks for watching.
Is that Sony Imaging Edge decodes the sony RAW files same as free Capture One version for Sony? I can see on the Sony website that this is recommended software for the Sony cameras, however I am not sure if any Sony software is compatible with any Sony cameras (like my old a5000)? Thanks
Hi all. My first ever photo editing video. These are things that I do regularly that are a little bit different to what I see others doing - so hopefully you find that interesting. Let me know your thoughts please. I've got another couple of editing vids planned on noise at high ISOs and my overall workflow. Thanks for watching.
Do more, please. Another photographer I follow shows how he shoots the images he then edits at the end of the video. Usually he just chooses one that we watched him take. You do you so well! I’m sure you’ll come up with a great format!
Wow your video was a great find! Great presentation and not another show off. Thank you.
@@suebyrne7739 Hi Sue, Much appreciated. Thank you for watching.
thank you, finding you is like winning the lottery!
Since I’ve gone without Lightroom subscription, i considered Cannon’s editing software. Now i understood why my damn photos looked like crap in Lightroom. Learned so much watching your educational videos I’m actually considering going into photography more and more.
Hi Andrei. That's awesome. I'm pleased that the videos are helpful. Thanks for watching.
I loved your tip about using your camera manufacturer’s editing tool with really noisy images because I’ve never even tried that with my Sony. Really useful! I’ve been using Lightroom for years and often been frustrated using the spot removal tool but the specific way you suggested using it seems to give better results. So a big thank you Scott - proof that even after years of use it is still possible to pick up new Lightroom tips.
Thanks Stephen. Yes, I think people often dismiss the camera manufacturer software because it is not as advanced as others, but what it does do, it does really well. Much appreciated, thanks for watching.
This is a very good video, thanks for sharing. Will definitely be looking at Canons software and the histogram for my editing workflow. Your sound output could use some tweaking please if that is possible
Hi Scott. Absolutely brilliant! I’ve been using Lr since the first public beta (approx 2004 I think) and PS 7.0 which had early version of ACR. So for close to 20 years I had no idea that the histogram could be edited directly. It had also been my assumption that the OEM editor would be trash. Today was a complete game changer, thank you.
Hi Gord. Happy to help. Generally I think those OEM editors aren't as advanced as the third party software. There's a process called demosaicing though - where the editor has to decode the raw file. The OEMs have the advantage they know what the demosaicing process is for their own sensors, whereas the third parties have to reverse engineer it. The result of it is that the OEMs are often better at the really basic stuff, but they don't have all that advanced technology that the OEMs have. It's worth playing around with your manufacturer's software to see what you can achieve in conjunction with your third party software. Thanks for watching.
Wow Scott, Ive been binge watching your videos. After years of watching many other photography videos trying to work out how to get that specific look I've been after, I have learnt more from you in the past few days than from any of the others. Im so glad I found your channel, so very very informative and helpful. Awesome work Scott, just awesome.
Hi Lea. That's awesome. I really appreciate it and I'm pleased the videos are helpful. Thanks for watching.
Hey man, you´ve just changed my photography game for life. specially with your noise reduction video. I can't thank you enough THANK YOU
Wow, thank you. I'm so happy to hear that and glad I can be of help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you Scott, I learned a lot here. Looking forward to watching your other videos. 👏
Much appreciated Christian. Thanks for watching.
I see a Scott Walker video. I automatically like it. Thanks for your great tips and training videos!
Wow, thank you. I'm so happy to hear that and glad I can be of help. Thanks for watching.
Really incredible! Thanks a lot for sharing your experience. Especially the tip using the raw converter from the camera manufacturer.
Holy crap - underrated video for sure! Great information.
Happy to help. Thanks for watching.
Excellent! Using the camera makers software was something I was totally unaware of!
Hi Andrew. I'm glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.
It's always fun learning the ins and outs of peoples creative processes. We tend to do more video editing, but Courtney has been enjoying mastering some photo editing as well. Really well done and insightful video! Thanks for sharing, we're excited to see more!
I'm glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.
Some interesting ideas here. I like what I see. Many thanks for sharing.
Hi Dave. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for showing all those great useful tips here Scott 👍
Much appreciate Raymond. Thanks for watching again.
Wow! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge in such a brilliant, clear, and concise manner. Wow!
Much appreciated Chris. Thanks for watching.
Excellent Channel. Very Helpful And Informative. Beautiful Photographs, Greetings From Norfolk.
Much appreciated. I love Norfolk and spend a lot of time there. Thanks for watching.
Great summary of some useful editing tips buddy. The last portrait😍😍😍😍 Have a gret day mate!
Thanks mate. Hope you're having a great weekend.
Thank you so much Scott. This is the great lesson. Cheers.
Thank you for watching
Appreciate the tip about using the histogram to adjust image . Your example of adding a vignette is based on the subject in center of frame, I much prefer using the radial filter for adding vignette's, as you can use it on subject anywhere in frame. That or creating vignette in PS using lasso tool, and then in properties panel feather it, or use gaussian blur. Enjoying your channel !!
Yes, for sure, there are lots of way to add a vignette, I don't always do it that way, but most of mine do have some sort of subtle vignette on them. Thanks for watching.
Absolutely brilliant presentation...very useful and much to learn...thanks very much.
Awesome, I'm pleased it is helpful. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this video, you're an excellent photographer and teacher.
Hi Terry. I really appreciate that - cheers. Thanks for watching.
Excellent. thanks for share your knowledge. Asome!!!
Hi Miguel. I'm glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.
Feel like I've been following the wrong photography channels
Dropping some serious knowledge bombs here, sir.
Cheers.
Much appreciated. Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much, Scott. This video was highly educational and inspiring at the same time. Very insightful and well explained. I hope to see more videos like this in the future. Well done! Have a fantastic weekend! -Jody
Thank you for your lovely comment Jody. I certainly have more videos like this planned. I'm very grateful for you continuing to watch. Have a great weekend.
You know how to learning, I really enjoyed!
Hi Stefan. Happy to help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for this great video. I have been using Lightroom for 20 years and although I am happy with my results I must say your tips will make the process simpler and quicker. I enjoy your channel and look forward to the next one.
Hi Joe. I'm glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.
HELLO FRIENDS SHARE VERY GOOD AND INTERESTING VIDEOS...
Thank you.
Very useful, thanks for sharing your secrets!
Cheer Nick, thanks for watching.
Interesting tips there. I will definitely look into the Canon editing sw. The camera manufacturers must definitely know their own raw files better than the third party software companies. Even that Adobe and Topaz and others does a very decent job.
Looking forward to the next videos covering these topics. And your other walks on the wild side...
Wishing you a lovely Sunday.
Hi Nils, yes it's definitely worth trying to see what the Canon software can do. Thanks for continuing to watch. Enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Absolutely fabulous video! Thank you. I’m looking forward to trying the Sony software with my images. I’m curious after you finish in Sony editor how you then get the file into Lightroom. I’m looking forward to your next video.
Hi Joe. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I save it as a TIFF file to then use in Lightroom. Thanks for your question and for watching.
Some really good unknown to me tips, great video!!
I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for watching.
Hi Scott ! thank you for this valuable information. I have started using Sony's Imaging editor
Hi Puneet. Fantastic, I'm sure you'll find it really useful. Thanks for watching.
Wow, your videos are shockingly amazing. So helpful contents.
Happy to help. Thanks for watching.
Darn, not I HAVE to watch all of your videos 🥹. Amazing and helpful tips. Glad I always backup my raw files!
Hi Mark. That's definitely a good thing to do. I often like to go back to old files to see if I can do something with them whenever I learn a new editing technique. Glad you're enjoying the videos. Thanks for watching.
Now this helped me get around a brick wall I've been hitting lately with my Marsh Harrier photography, specifically the tip to try processing in Sony imaging application. Thanks so much for this video, I've subscribed for future content. Best regards and if I ever see you I owe you a beer thankyou Scott. James
Thanks James, glad it helped. And if I ever see you out and about I'll take you up on that beer. Thanks for watching.
Great video with some really good tips, even for a newbie. Off to try them out!
Hi Jayne, glad its helpful. Thanks for watching.
Fantastic tips!
Hi Becky, glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for this video! I don't like editing and see it as a "necessary evil". But, thanks to the eye-opener about camera specific software, I actually feel motivated to re-edit some high ISO-meganoise photo's! Thanks for all the tips and please keep posting more video's!
Hi Wendy. I'm glad you found it useful. Good luck with your mega noise photos and thanks for watching.
Hi, i just came across your channel and i'm happy and learning a lot of new things from you. Love your content and the way you teach us. Love from Pakistan 🇵🇰
Wonderful. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos and I hope you can use some of this to make beautiful photos of all your wildlife in Pakistan. Thank you for watching. Best wishes from the UK.
saying that I moved toward sony A1 now this has to be a game changer for me! Tks! Come to US to have some birding shooting fan in FL ;)
Hi Nelu - I would love that. I definitely will be in the US with my camera one day - you have some beautiful birds.
Thank you very much for this tutorial! 😊
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Muito bom seu vídeo. Tens um olhar bem atento para as definições das suas fotos. Parabéns Scott!!!
É muita gentileza da sua parte. Muito obrigado.
Muy Bueno Como siempre, gracias por la ayuda y por compartir, saludos.
Muchas gracias, mis mejores deseos y un saludo desde el Reino Unido.
Really enjoyed your voeden Scott. Specifically using the histogram and the tip to use the manufacturers software. When I first uploaded my canon R5 pics into LR I was horrified by the amount of noise. I have been using DxO since then which is a great help. Will certainly check out the Canon software 😉
Hi Davida. It's just as nice to hear that you found the video useful. And it's definitely worth checking out the Canon software. Thanks for watching.
This was so helpful. I’m not sure how to find the manufacturer editing software. Also, that feathering out that blade of grass was super helpful as I could never figure out how to use that tool properly. I have a photo I can practice with. As always….great video!
Thanks Tamara. The Nikon software is called NX Studio, so if you just Google that you should be able to download it. Good luck with your photo editing. Thanks for continuing to watch.
Been into my photography for many years now and have watched tonnes of tips and tricks. Learnt way more valuable tips from your videos than I have from hours on other channels. Thank you for sharing. Out of curiosity which laptop do you use for your photo editing please?
Hi Myles, glad the videos are helpful. I use a few different machines - the one you saw in this video was an HP Envy 17 (which is a bit old now and due for an upgrade), but it's the one I usually take with me wherever I am, to edit on the go. I also have a desktop that I use when I'm printing and another laptop that I use solely for editing videos, which consumes much more processing power than photo editing. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the tips. I didn't know that you can slide in the histogram. I'm gonna try this next time.
Thanks Patrick. Definitely worth trying - it takes all the guess work away and is much quicker. Thanks for watching.
awesome tutorial, thanks!
Hi. I'm glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.
I work directly on the histogram as well...and it's a good tip, and demonstration you do here. Curiously I've watched video from another "famous" youtuber who explicitly ignores, and even collapses the histogram when editing...never understood, and certainly didn't agree with his thinking in doing that.
Hi. Completely agree. I even see people who put a video of their face of the space the histogram occupies. It's the second most important thing on the screen, after the photo. I'm glad you found it interesting and thanks for watching.
This is so enlightening
I'm glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching.
Great video! Thanks 🙏!!
I'm glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching.
Nice trick with that native app. I think I have to start doing the same with the Canon app. Lightroom is terrible at demosaicing Canon RAWs
It's definitely worth a try. Thanks for watching.
thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching.
Question: do you ever use in-camera lens/noise corrections, or leave it to native software later?
Your expertise is great and on par with your approachability and accessibility. Thank you.
Thanks you so much Christopher. I don't use the in-camera noise corrections and do it all in the photo editing afterwards. The reason I don't is that it can sometimes slow down the buffer and take the files longer to write to the memory card when you take a long burst of shots. If you use raw files, the in-camera noise reduction isn't usually automatically applied in photo editing software, but the software can read the noise reduction settings from the raw file and apply equivalent settings, so you may find it useful to use them.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide I'm asking you like it's some super secret handshake they don't want you to know! lol... please forgive my lack of other great resources. So, does this RAW "tag" for correction also apply to lens correction? And I'm guessing It would work best for noise proprietarily eg. Sony Camera + Sony lens > Sony edit.
@@ChristopherBattles Hi. I can't be sure about all raw file types - there are loads - but certainly the ones I'm familiar with, they have fields that flag whether in-camera lens distortion and chromatic aberration were applied. That being said, I don't think it is anything other than a binary yes/no to each of these. Whereas in post, you will be able to control the amount of distortion, for example. However, I would imagine that the more accurate corrections are done with the native software. (But I've never compared the two - it might be an interesting exercise).
Great video, thanks very much for sharing. One quick question on the use of manufacturer's editing tools. Are you using it for all photos before Lightroom or just those eg with a lot of noise? Thanks again.
Hi Steve. Not for all photos, but I do use it for a variety of reasons that aren't just about noise reduction. I think the key thing is that the manufacturers software can do some things better than the third party editing software - because they fully understand their own RAW files. But the third parties do a lot of things better than the manufacturer software because they invest in software develop so heavily. It's definitely worth trying the manufacturer software to see what you can get it to do.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Many thanks for taking the trouble to reply. It looks like Olympus Workspace is handling "noisy" RAWS from the new OM-1 better than Lightroom. The workflow won't be fun!
Thanks for another great video, very helpful. Look forward to others on editing. If you have any tips on setting an image up for printing , at a lab, I've tried a few and they haven't come back looking quite the same !
Hi Mike. Thanks for watching and the suggestion about a printing video. I'll have a think about whether I could do the subject justice. Printing is definitely an art. Typically your print file needs to be a little bit brighter than what you see on the screen, mainly because most screens are backlit and so the colours render brighter than they do on paper. You can buy a colour calibrated monitor which is designed to give you print colours, but unless you are doing a lot of printing it might not be worth it. A lot also depends on the pigments/inks that the lab uses. It is worth getting to know one lab well so that you get used to their methods and the results will become more predictable. And it's always worth ordering a test print first. Get them to send you some small versions of your photos printed on 5x6 or something like that - then you can tweak the print file until they get it right. And also check with the lab what their preferred file format is, and make sure you export the photo in that format.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Many thanks for reply, yes will try some test prints, think they watermark them so can't be used.
A good tip a photographer gave me years ago- print a photo, then put it next to your screen and adjust the brightness, blue, green, red, contrast, till the screen looks the same as the print. It takes time but is worth it.
Hi Scott, thank you for the video. Really helpful information! One thing is still unclear to me. When adjusting the histogram how do you decide to drag either the highlights or whites and when the blacks or shadows. Especially because every histogram is different. What are you looking for in all the visible parts (grey area, colored areas) and where do you want them in the histogram.
Hi. That question could be a topic for a video itself, it would require quite a long answer. Do you ever refer to the histogram when you are out taking photos and adjust your settings specifically in order to alter the histogram? If you do, it's exactly the same method of thinking that you would follow in post processing. If you aren't referring to the histogram when you shoot, it would be worth learning about it. There are lots of videos on TH-cam about the histogram. I haven't made one on this topic yet, but I will add it to the list. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Damn, you respond fast Scott ;) Thanks for your answer! I always look on the histogram afterwards on the back of the camera. But I don't know histograms in enough detail. I will watch some video's on it.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Oh one more thing. Someone else said that when adjusting the blacks and whites, in Lightroom, you hold the ctrl/option key and drag until you see it is barely not under or overexposed. What do you think of this technique?
Hey Scott, I have some questions. 1) Do you put all of your images through sony's software first for initial edits? 2) Are there any downsides to that workflow regarding editing TIFF in lightroom? The internet seems to shun TIFF and I am wondering if there is something I am missing. I mean, if your basic edits are done in Sony's Editor then you do more advanced work in lightroom, then Photoshop, then topaz, does the image start to degrade or get compressed at any point before you export the final as a jpeg?
Hi Julian. I don't always put them through Sony's editor, but I often do - it depends what I'm trying to achieve. And you're right, the internet shuns TIFFs. But the internet is often wrong about things - particularly in photography. People just repeat the same old things they've heard in the past - many of which are no-longer true, or never were true in the first place. There are massive myths around TIFF files. I'm planning to make a video about it soon. Almost all my images have been TIFFs at some point. One of the great things about TIFFs is that it is a lossless file type - so it never degrades, not matter how many times you save it. Also it can save layers - which is really important. If you're working in photoshop, you basically have two choices if you want to save a file with all the layers info, so that you can come back to work on or tweak those layers later - PSD files or TIFFs. And PSDs can only be read by Adobe software. There are lots of other benefits to TIFFs, which I'll go into in the video. And most people use TIFFs all the time without even knowing it. If you ever send a photo from Lightroom to Photoshop, it's sent as a TIFF (Raw files can't carry your edits with them). If you send a photo from any photo editor to a plugin, such as Topaz - it's also sent as a TIFF. One drawback to TIFFs though. TIFFs only save data within the colour gamut. So if you've got any blown out highlights or crushed shadows, fix them before you first convert to TIFF. As long as you do this everything else will be great. The second drawback is the large file size, compared to lesser formats. (TIFFs are 16 bit files, which is even bigger than raw. Raw files are either 12 bit or 14 bit, depending on your camera. JPEGs are just 8 bit files). I hope that helps
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Thats all very helpful thank you!!!
Good video mate! Question... so if I use canon, I first would ' do basic retouch" in the Canon program, and then I would export it as a TIFF and I can do work on LR, (then PS), as if it was an original RAW? ( am I losing any quality from the original RAW doing it this way?) Thanks!
Hi. TIFF files retain all the data within the colour gamut. But you lose anything outside it. So if you had blown out highlights or crushed shadows at the point you converted to TIFF you would lose that data. So you would need to get the exposure right in your Canon software before converting to TIFF. Give it a try, but make sure you use the 16bit TIFF files. 8bit TIFFs aren’t much better than JPEGs.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide excellent! Thanks.. yo be honest I never thought of doing it this way, but it makes since as you said, the camera manufacturer knows better than anyone how yo manage their “ own” color science.. thanks again! Cheers! ;)
Just when you think you've seen all the photo editing videos...... I watched this and learned more. Great video! Silly question time, I've always converted my raw files to dng upon import to LR. Partly for space and partly because I've been led to believe the quality of the file remains the same or very similar to the original raw. What's your thoughts on this? I guess I can't then use the Nikon software with the Adobe dng, well I've not tried it anyway. I'm getting that feeling of dread when I think of the noisy images that are now forever DNGs and there was hope for them being far better and easier to recover 😥. Anyway great video and I'm really enjoying your channel. Cheers!
Thanks so much and that’s a great question. I think DNG would be good if the whole industry got behind it but I have compatibility issues with some software using DNGs. I use TIFF because it’s it works with my Sony software, Adobe and all the other pieces of software I use. One of the main reasons is that TIFFs maintain layers if I end up doing anything in photoshop. So I can bring up the image and adjust the layers at any point I want to re-edit it in the future. But TIFF files are huge. The other disadvantage of TIFFs is that although they don’t compress the image they don’t save any out of gamut info. I’ve tried DNGs in the past and found that the conversion is really slow - which is a pain if I have lots to edit. I guess if you save both your RAW and DNG then anything is possible but that kind of defeats the purpose of DNGs. As with all these things there is no right answer and a lot of it depends on the way you work. Thanks for watching and for the question.
Hi Dave, love your videos !!! It seems that the Sony editor allows you to save your edited image in DNG as well as TIFF. Have you had any experience saving as DNG in stead ?
Hi Kurt. What's the name of the software you're using. My Sony software only allows you to save export as raw or TIFF. (It's the Edit module of Sony Imaging Edge) I've got the latest version installed.
@WalksOnTheWildSide ha, ha, sorry my bad 🙄 There's no option to save in dng, but you can choose to save your edit as *.arw or choose output and save as tiff. I wonder if saving as Dng will be a better option in terms of filesize and further editing in Topaz Denoise ?
Sorry meant save as *.arw will be a better option in terms of filesize and further editing in Topaz Denoise ?
Ok, I understand. I've never tried this, but I have read blogs by other photographers who have. They seem to suggest that Topaz actually treats it as a TIFF file when importing DNGs and only converts back to DNG on export. This makes sense because DNG is an Adobe proprietary format. But I can't be sure as I haven't tried this myself. With giving it a go though.
Good afternoon Scott. Do you do all your image editing on a laptop and do you calibrate your screen ? Just curious.
Hi Peter. My view on calibrated monitors has changed over the years. I do use a desktop with calibrated monitor when I create print files, but most of the time I just use my laptop, which isn't calibrated. Partly this is because the laptop is portable and I can take it wherever I am. Partly, though, I don't think calibration is as important as it used to be. Almost everyone consumes photography digitally, whether here on TH-cam, websites, social media etc. and the colours are far more effected by the colour settings and white balance of the device they view it on. So, personally, I'm only bothered about colour calibration when I print. I want the print to look like the file I've edited. And printing is a bit of an artform. I know there are many others who will say differently and wax on about the importance of calibration - I just don't see it nowadays. Sorry for the long answer, but I wanted to explain fully. Thanks for watching and your question.
I’m going to go back and edit several of my images in Sony Editor after watching this. Is there a quick way to move from the Sony Editor to Lightroom?
Hi David. Unfortunatley not. When I do it, I export as a TIFF and then take that in to Lightroom. Thanks for watching.
Curious about your experience with Sonys software VS DXO Pure RAW (if you've tried it). I usually go DXO > LR > Topaz
Hi Tyler. I’ve never used DXO Pure RAW but I know it has a good reputation. It would be interesting to see the differences but for me it’s about getting as clean an image into Lightroom or Photoshop as possible and then I finish it off in Topaz. I’m going to put out a video fairly soon on my whole workflow for high noise photos.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide You actually inspired me to make my own workflow video. th-cam.com/video/DPqTdB8IaAI/w-d-xo.html
BTW I incorporated your tip about using a vignette to draw the eye to the subject (although not mentioned in my video). Really like it!
So this was quite interesting. I have a linear profile for my Nikon D850. Can you briefly explain what role that plays versus the profiles that are standard inside LR? Any real benefit to using a linear profile for the specific camera?
Hi Philip. In general colour profiles tell your image processing software about the depth of the colour. So things like contrast and saturation. I’m not a Nikon photographer myself and so have never used the Nikon linear profile. But I have read that lots of Nikon shooters like it. It provides much flatter information about the depth of colour than other profiles do. Most profiles will beef up the colours in the mid tones but less so in the highlights and shadows. The linear profile affects all tones equally. I hope that’s helpful, but it might be worth seeking some info from a Nikon photographer for more specifics. Thanks for watching.
Excuse me sir, what kind of settings you used to take insects or flowers video?
I always lose the focus.
I'am sorry if my English was not good 🙏🏼.
Hi. There is no one group of settings to take insect and flower photos - it depends on so many factors. If you're loosing focus, it isn't about the settings - it's about your focusing technique. The best for insects and flowers is to use manual focus. The first section of this video should help you th-cam.com/video/30MX9G0H0tI/w-d-xo.html
@@WalksOnTheWildSide thank you sir
As far as using the native editing software, are you then able to save your edits as a raw file?
Depending on your software you can save it as a TIFF or DNG file to take in to third party soft ware to continue your edits. TIFFs are really good, and are the format used when transferring photos between Lightroom and Photoshop.
Hello, kind of off topic but what type of Laptop are you editing on? Cheer's from Vancouver Canada
Hi William. Happy to answer that, but do you mind if I ask you a question too - what's the interest in the laptop? I only ask you because I never get questions about this, but I've had three in the last 24 hours and wondering if there's a link? To get back to your question. I use a few different machines - the one you saw in this video was an HP Envy 17 (which is a bit old now and will be upgraded very soon), but it's the one I usually take with me wherever I am, to edit on the go. I also have a desktop that I use when I'm printing and another laptop that I use solely for editing videos, which consumes much more processing power than photo editing. Thanks for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Thanks for answering so very quickly !! Just trying to decide wether to stick to the Microsoft ecosystem or finally switch to a Mac. I'm trying to find a Laptop that will run Lightroom Classic, LRTimelapse & Photoshop right now. Your edit's in this video look very responsive (might of been done on your desktop system). Great video thanks for putting these learning tutorial together !!
❤
What version of Lightroom are you using? It seems that there are more than one.
Hi Phyllis. There have been a lot of updates to lightroom since this video was put out 15 months ago - so some things might look a little different. I was using Lightroom Classic. There are basically two types of Lightroom. Lightroom Classic and Lightroom CC (Creative Cloud). Classic is aimed at desktop users and CC is aimed at mobile users (tablets phones etc). But you can also use CC on a desktop. I hope that explains things.
Is there a difference when i save the image in imaging edge to tiff and when i save as raw the edits don’t apply?
isn't it the creative style don't affect raw files?
Hi Vincent. It isn't embedded in the raw file, but if you save as a TIFF or DNG you can use it in other third party software. TIFF is the same file format used when transferring photos between lightroom and photoshop. I've recently made a video all about creative styles. th-cam.com/video/eWoGytzdGc4/w-d-xo.html
Try it with Pure Raw 2 oder Photolab 5 from DXO and you will see a miracle. There are trial versions!
Thanks Christian. I use Topaz for my noise reduction, which also works miracles. I've heard good things about Pure RAW too. The point of this wasn't really to do noise reduction though, it was to show the power of your native camera software. But I will be making another video all about noise. Thanks for watching.
Hm.. Adobe LR cant handle Sony´s profiles? Well not with my Sony. After the initial import all ARWs are set to Sony´s cam profile on my LR ... I know since i always switch it to my Color Checker profile for the shot ... Are you sure bout that? But i agree noise reduction in LR is really crap - compared to native/Topaz&co
Hi Gregor. If you click on the icon with four squares, in the top right hand corner of the basic panel in lightroom, it will open up the profile browser and should default to the profile you used. But you can also select any other profile. I think there might still be a couple of the profiles missing that Adobe haven't sorted yet, but most of them are there. Thanks for the question and for watching.