Awesome! Glad it works for the TL too. This will come in handy for the power steering rack and pinion removal too. I have to replace my rack, it's worn out.
The 2003-2007 Honda Accord is very similar. I found it requires prying down in the subframe after the bolts are removed, and I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with a low profile socket. Removing the mid subframe bolts is not necessary - they only need to be loosened.
It's a super annoying setup, luckily you don't replace those bushings very often. If you want to be extra careful not to put pressure on the exhaust, you can disconnect the exhaust header downpipe where it connects to the catalytic converter.
FYI, I just replaced by Accord TSX 2008 (Euro In Aus) and you do not need to lower the sub frame. I used a 3/8 socket with an universal joint to get the rear bolt. Work fine.
Awesome. That's interesting I know 04 05 06 here in US you do have to drop the subframe. Terrible design IMO. I wonder if it's slightly different by region. What country are you in?
@@thurm101 If you can't reach that back bolt with a universal joint then you will have to do it the way I did it. The TSX in Europe is called the Accord. The accord and TSX share many similarities.
My car started making sqeaking noises and I believe its from my poly fsb. Thinking about getting moog rubber fsb, do they need to be greased or did you install just the bushings only?
The bushings come with a small packet of silicone paste. Silicone is safe for rubber, but don't use petroleum grease because that breaks down rubber. If you want to test your bushings without removing them, spray them with silicone spray and if the noise goes away then you know you need to lubricate them.
@@ChavezDIY thanks. I've sprayed them with silicone spray but no change. Weird thing is when its raining outside, the noise is gone but on dry days the noise becomes louder. The squeeking noise is driving me insane! These bushings are barely a year old. The back ones are energy suspension polyurethane bushings (with a thicker progressive sway bar from previous owner) and fronts are moog rubber bushings, so I'm not sure if I should replace all of them and make back ones rubber or attempt to grease them with silicone grease and wrap them with teflon tape.
@@to8840 then it might not be your bushings. Squeaking noises can also come from dry ball joints. I would check the sway bar end links, the tie rod ends, then the upper control arm ball joint and the lower control arm ball joint. Check all the boots, if you see red dust that's rust. If a boot is torn then that might be the problem joint.
I don't but it should be very similar to this video. It's just two bolts holding down each bushing. You may not need to drop the subframe if you can get a socket or combination wrench to reach all the bolts. Torque specs are the same.
If you have two jacks, you can use two jacks. I don't know if a 4X4 will be enough, but you can give it a try. A 4x6 can take 200lbs more of a load compared to the 4x4. Check the video description for additional information. Keep in mind that the engine is still held to the chassis through the side engine mount at the top and the upper transmission mount.
On Lexus the slit on the bushing is facing the front. When yo go over a hump, the forward motion of the wheel should push the swaybar backwards so it makes sense not to have the swaybar hit the slit.
There are holes on the bottom of the subframe, right underneath where the bolts for the bushing brackets are. It would be great if these bolts would have an internal hex on te bottom, so we could loosen them though those holes from the bottom.
Thanks! 4ft is the length of the 4x6. I bought it at a discounted price at Home Depot because it was originally an 8ft piece of wood that someone requested to be cut in half but they didn't buy it afterall. I asked a worker about it and he offered me 50% off, haha.
The bushings were about 9 years old and I wanted to tighten up my body roll by replacing the bushings. 9 years from this video I upgraded the sway bars (and bushings) with H&R. I also had this annoying squeaking noise in my front suspension and I was ruling out components and these old bushings were one of the things on my list.
@@ChavezDIY I have 9th Gen Accord and its same annoying Squeaking noise ... it get when it warm out ... i guess i need to Drop the subframe like the Acuras to get to it then .
@@jason1234934 Its challenging to identify the source of squeaking noises in the suspension. Its quite an ordeal lowering the subframe to get to those bushings. I recommend you to liberally spray silicone lubricant on those bushings. If the squeak goes away then you know the bushings are the source of the squeak.
I’m thinking a swivel head 14 mm ratchet wrench would fit in there but not sure if if there enough room to get some leverage to crank it and break the back nut loose tho Only one way to find out I guess
@@ChavezDIY yea. I found out what it was. The floor jack 😑 any who, it still wont give me enough clearance to access that back bolt so I am trying to bend the bracket. Maybe that will help. I already did one side just need to align the damn hole.
@@lemonynut8559 Ahh ok, I have a low profile floor jack. It still is a tight squeeze, on one side I was able to fit the socket, but on the other side I had to use a combination wrench to get the bolt out. It's a terrible design on this car. The only good thing about it is this will help if you ever have to replace the steering rack.
I didn't know that the 2003 Accord had the same design. Yup, it's a crappy design and you're right about the lower ball joint! ...having to remove the whole steering knuckle to replace the lower ball is a pain in the ass! I've done it a couple of times already, but I dread having to go through all that work, haha. I use to remove the lower ball joint with a two jaw puller tool and an impact, but now I just put a socket over the stud and hammer it out with a big ass hammer.
***CHECK VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR LINKS+UPDATES+CORRECTIONS+MORE INFO***
is it same Torque for Honda ACCORD 2005 LX(4 CYL/2.4/4 DR. AUTO)?
Your detailed inclusion on torque specs are a life saver
I'm glad it's helpful! 😎
Do you think it would be possible to do one side at a time with just the jack and no long block of lumber?
Thank you. It works for Acura TL as well. Great video.
Awesome! Glad it works for the TL too. This will come in handy for the power steering rack and pinion removal too. I have to replace my rack, it's worn out.
That’s exactly why I watched this video. I have an 07 TL and saw the same issue when I went to do the bushings. Thanks for the tip!!
The 2003-2007 Honda Accord is very similar. I found it requires prying down in the subframe after the bolts are removed, and I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with a low profile socket. Removing the mid subframe bolts is not necessary - they only need to be loosened.
That's right, the TSX is the same platform as the Accord. The TSX in Europe is known as an Accord. Sounds like you got the job done, good work!
How did you support the subframe? can you explain , please. Mine is 2005 Accord and similiar to you.
Thank u for the tip man looking to fix my acura soon
You're welcome! Good luck with that! 💪🏻
Very helpful vid. I have an 06 accord v6 and I believe the setup of the sway bar is the same.
It's a super annoying setup, luckily you don't replace those bushings very often. If you want to be extra careful not to put pressure on the exhaust, you can disconnect the exhaust header downpipe where it connects to the catalytic converter.
FYI, I just replaced by Accord TSX 2008 (Euro In Aus) and you do not need to lower the sub frame. I used a 3/8 socket with an universal joint to get the rear bolt. Work fine.
Awesome. That's interesting I know 04 05 06 here in US you do have to drop the subframe. Terrible design IMO. I wonder if it's slightly different by region. What country are you in?
I have a 09 Honda Accord exl and I am wondering if this is the same. Because I just can’t get to that one bolt.
@@thurm101 If you can't reach that back bolt with a universal joint then you will have to do it the way I did it. The TSX in Europe is called the Accord. The accord and TSX share many similarities.
@@ChavezDIY They're not different, you don't need to drop the sub frame on a 1st gen TSX
@@dustsmoke What year TSX did you change the front bushings on? Did you use a 1/4 or 3/8 universal joint?
My car started making sqeaking noises and I believe its from my poly fsb. Thinking about getting moog rubber fsb, do they need to be greased or did you install just the bushings only?
The bushings come with a small packet of silicone paste. Silicone is safe for rubber, but don't use petroleum grease because that breaks down rubber. If you want to test your bushings without removing them, spray them with silicone spray and if the noise goes away then you know you need to lubricate them.
@@ChavezDIY thanks. I've sprayed them with silicone spray but no change. Weird thing is when its raining outside, the noise is gone but on dry days the noise becomes louder. The squeeking noise is driving me insane! These bushings are barely a year old. The back ones are energy suspension polyurethane bushings (with a thicker progressive sway bar from previous owner) and fronts are moog rubber bushings, so I'm not sure if I should replace all of them and make back ones rubber or attempt to grease them with silicone grease and wrap them with teflon tape.
@@to8840 then it might not be your bushings. Squeaking noises can also come from dry ball joints. I would check the sway bar end links, the tie rod ends, then the upper control arm ball joint and the lower control arm ball joint. Check all the boots, if you see red dust that's rust. If a boot is torn then that might be the problem joint.
@@ChavezDIY thank you!
Do you have video on 2003-2007 Honda Accord/ACURA Swaybar Bushing Replacements?
I don't but it should be very similar to this video. It's just two bolts holding down each bushing. You may not need to drop the subframe if you can get a socket or combination wrench to reach all the bolts. Torque specs are the same.
@@ChavezDIY Thank you, I will follow your video and tips.
@@ChavezDIY no, it's same rear bolt is behind frame and need to drop a bit as you did. IS IT OK TO USE 4X4 Wood piece or TWO JACKS?
If you have two jacks, you can use two jacks. I don't know if a 4X4 will be enough, but you can give it a try. A 4x6 can take 200lbs more of a load compared to the 4x4. Check the video description for additional information. Keep in mind that the engine is still held to the chassis through the side engine mount at the top and the upper transmission mount.
Thank you so much. Works well!
Great to hear! This is one of those videos where I didn't know if it was going to helpful for others, haha.
On Lexus the slit on the bushing is facing the front. When yo go over a hump, the forward motion of the wheel should push the swaybar backwards so it makes sense not to have the swaybar hit the slit.
That's a good point! Makes sense =)
There are holes on the bottom of the subframe, right underneath where the bolts for the bushing brackets are. It would be great if these bolts would have an internal hex on te bottom, so we could loosen them though those holes from the bottom.
That's a good point. That's how the lower transmission bolts are designed, with bolt access under the sub frame.
Did you loosen the steering rack or steering joint on this particular job?
I did not.
great video. how long was the 4x6 piece of wood?
Thanks! 4ft is the length of the 4x6. I bought it at a discounted price at Home Depot because it was originally an 8ft piece of wood that someone requested to be cut in half but they didn't buy it afterall. I asked a worker about it and he offered me 50% off, haha.
how thick in MM is the front and rear sway bar oem?
TSX 2004-2008 OEM Sway Bar size= Front is 25.4mm and Rear is 15mm
What was the issue that you were having so you replaced the bushing? thanks!
The bushings were about 9 years old and I wanted to tighten up my body roll by replacing the bushings. 9 years from this video I upgraded the sway bars (and bushings) with H&R. I also had this annoying squeaking noise in my front suspension and I was ruling out components and these old bushings were one of the things on my list.
@@ChavezDIY I have 9th Gen Accord and its same annoying Squeaking noise ... it get when it warm out ... i guess i need to Drop the subframe like the Acuras to get to it then .
@@jason1234934 Its challenging to identify the source of squeaking noises in the suspension. Its quite an ordeal lowering the subframe to get to those bushings. I recommend you to liberally spray silicone lubricant on those bushings. If the squeak goes away then you know the bushings are the source of the squeak.
@@ChavezDIY Yeah sprayed Silicone grease on and inside the suspect bushing and it stopped the squeaking for a couple of weeks then it came back.
I’m thinking a swivel head 14 mm ratchet wrench would fit in there but not sure if if there enough room to get some leverage to crank it and break the back nut loose tho Only one way to find out I guess
Are these a better option then the progress sway bar?
I don't think it's a better option, just another option. The rear progress bar is 2mm thicker than the rear H&R bar. Both have 2 settings adjustment.
One question. Where did you put the jack stands?
I put the jack stands under the pinch welds of the car. You can see the location in this video: th-cam.com/video/onNTWhpelRw/w-d-xo.html
@@ChavezDIY I am in the process right now. I removed the bolts for the subframe but no movement 😅😅
@@lemonynut8559 did you also disconnect the sway bar from the steering knuckle?
@@ChavezDIY yea. I found out what it was. The floor jack 😑 any who, it still wont give me enough clearance to access that back bolt so I am trying to bend the bracket. Maybe that will help. I already did one side just need to align the damn hole.
@@lemonynut8559 Ahh ok, I have a low profile floor jack. It still is a tight squeeze, on one side I was able to fit the socket, but on the other side I had to use a combination wrench to get the bolt out. It's a terrible design on this car. The only good thing about it is this will help if you ever have to replace the steering rack.
Tip: Only loosen the bolts, not completely remove
This the only way to do it??
Yessir! If you find another way, please come back and let us know.
@@ChavezDIY ok I ordered the bushing already I'm gonna give a try
Thank you
You're welcome!
Your a genuis, merci......
Same design for my 2003 Honda Accord (US). Crap design! About as smart as the lower ball joint removal process...
I didn't know that the 2003 Accord had the same design. Yup, it's a crappy design and you're right about the lower ball joint! ...having to remove the whole steering knuckle to replace the lower ball is a pain in the ass! I've done it a couple of times already, but I dread having to go through all that work, haha. I use to remove the lower ball joint with a two jaw puller tool and an impact, but now I just put a socket over the stud and hammer it out with a big ass hammer.
@@ChavezDIY big ass hammer usually gets it done haha
@@JBUCKLEY86 😆😆💪🏻😎
Thank you
You're welcome!