How To Install a Direct-To-Stud Shower Enclosure | The Home Depot with
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- Learn how to install a shower surround directly to wall studs with @thisoldhouse. A bathtub and shower combo is a great addition to your bathroom, and installing a direct-to-stud shower surround is a project that you can complete in under one day. Take careful measurements, dry fit your shower surround to ensure the right fit and then install the panels. For more related videos, see our DIY Bathroom Renovation Ideas playlist: thd.co/3xdiukd
Visit our How to Install a Direct-to-Stud Shower Enclosure guide for more details: thd.co/3iQ26kk
Follow the steps below to install a direct-to-stud shower enclosure:
0:00 How to Install a Direct-to-Stud Shower Enclosure
0:24 Prepare the Shower Area
0:50 Pre-Fit the Shower
1:28 Install the Base
3:20 Insert and Attach Back Panel
3:53 Insert and Attached Side Panels
4:07 Install Plumbing Panels
4:37 Install Trim Kit for Shower Valve
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How to Install a Direct-to-Stud Shower Enclosure | The Home Depot with @thisoldhouse
• How To Install a Direc... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
A pretty good demonstrations with a few notable exceptions. Sheetrock screws are not galvanized and rust, so using them in this situation especially up at the shower arm fitting for support is just wrong. Also, when gluing the PVC drain, I didn't see any purple primer being used. When the drain and valve trim plate were being installed there sure was a lot of debris that should've been removed first. Finally, after setting the base into mortar, place about 40 lbs. on center of it and let it sit overnight. The weight will keep the base from lifting or shifting while the mortar sets.
Make a video or shut the fuck up
What screws to use instead of drywall screws ?
@@glock316 First I pre-drilled my holes in the shower mounting lip, and then I used #8 x 1-1/4" truss head screws, they were Teks #21512 from Home Depot.
The purple "primer" is just pipe cleaner. It isn't necessarily needed for new PVC.
But great point about the galvanized screws.
Thanks guys. I've learned more in these comments than 3 video's.
This was nice. Love seeing 'ol Tom Silva. Hope he's doing well these days.
Highly recommend to remove cartridge inside valve before soldiering😮
Not bad
great video clean helpful to the point!
Good content and good advice. With regard to the single handle shower valve, I suggest removing the cartridge from valve body to prevent heat damage to the cartridge when you solder the connections. When you re-install the cartridge, sparingly apply silicone plumbing lubricant to it to make it easier to insert in the valve body. Keeping the cartridge in a plastic bag will prevent it from being contaminated by construction debris.
I have the exact same system and shower drain can I use the shower drain with 2" copper drain pipe?
For this model can you install a foldable teak bench or seat. on the wall?
It's very important to use pan head screws because any other type of head on the screws will split the fiberglass when tightened down.
Hi, I know it's 2 years ago but should you screw in the base? My instructions says to screw in the base and supplied the screws for it. I have sand mix all under mine and it's solid. A friend of mine was saying don't put the screws into the base you don't need plus it could add tension and crack. Thanks
I am installing the sterling 4 piece 48" shower, do you need to install a 2x4 support block between studs to support the valve and if so how do you determine the distance so that the bonnet comes thru the panel far enough for the trim. the valve is a delta multi choice with plaster ring
It is best to use a 2x8", or some 2-by that is wide enough so that you can mount the shower valve body onto it.
I attached my 2x8" to the studs first (like a fireblock) with a few screws - making sure to install it at the same the height of your valve body that you desire.
Experts
say the valve body is supposed to be mounted between 40"-44", but you can install it anywhere you want. Just remember: your chosen location is going to be permanent, so I recommend placing it as close to the center of your shower base as possible.
Then I simply used a couple of more screws to mount the valve body onto the block of wood.
Your valve body should have come with a square plastic piece (mine was black) that you temporarily attach to the valve body. Attach that onto the face of your valve body in order to see where you're finished wall is going to be located around the valve body itself.
Good information I need to buy the kit
If the shower is on an exterior wall, do you need at add wall board behind the enclosure ? Or do you still screw to the stud ? And how thick is that vapor barrier ?
Perhaps a critical step, how to remove and then install a new drain in the pan.
Thanks for this video
You didn't say anything about when to remove the black plastic housing on the new faucet.. does it stay on or do you remove it at some point?
Is it right to install the plastic over the insulation that has the paper backing on it??
Where is the link to the item on the video?
Showerhead replacement valve
you dont have to put some type cement board or durrock behind the enclosure for mositure? thanks
I would do everything possible to ensure a water tight enclosure, including vapor barrier and sheet rock. anything and everything to stop and slow a leak.
thats what am thinking too. What if the pan cracks. Our shower wall is cracked but it also seems from the 80's@@charliejohnston1978
Why don’t they make the tub lip slant so it won’t hold water? This is a problem for me. I have to use a paint scraper covered by a rag to clean it out. Pink mold grows there.
Because your shower isn’t level
Because the walls sit on that ledge
I have my doubts with that drain/gasket combo?
How do you prevent water from getting into the gaps between the panels?
I'm looking to replace a moldy shower and don't want to end up with the exact problem on a new one.
I usually caulk the vertical lines with silicone (make sure it's rated for kitchen and bath). The horizontal gaps are usually left uncaulked or caulked as shown in this video.
Most caulkless surrounds guide the water down to the pan allowing it to drain.
I agree Blitziel, but I would still use a thin bead of silicone anyway, as an extra security measure.
I don't even want a single molecule of water slipping through. 😏
@@Parabellum-X The problem is that over time the caulking can break down or a tear or gap develop from use. Now the lip of the pan is most likely sucking up or holding water instead of letting it freely drain and air out.
@@nova31337so the question is, to caulk or not to caulk?
Where can I buy those clips at 1:57?
They usually come with the shower base.
The Home Depot.
What kind of screws do I use to install the same shower
Galvanised screws and nails are zinc coated nails that have undergone a galvanisation process. This process means the nails have a protective barrier which makes them resistant to rust and corrosion.
@@brendsjohnson4589 Many zinc coated nails and products are not galvanized, and besides they do rust after several years anyway. Use stainless screws only. QED
So there is no need at all for backer board or GoBoard? I can't seem to find an easy answer to this.... thank you!
It depends on the specific model. Some are direct-to-stud, some must be installed over a solid wall.
@Sam Ram Appreciate it. We put some at the top and then painted over it. Looks good... just to be on the safe side I guess. Thx for your reply!
thank you for your answer. am here looking because this direct to stud is scary.@@michaelbluejay
Why were copper and solder used, here? Isn't it easier and more cost effective for a homeowner to use PEX? Or at the very least use SharkBite fittings?
Agreed!
It’s my understanding that solder is best (when done right), especially for locations that are difficult to access like tub/shower supply lines.
Pex and expansion rings are great and very cost effective, but SharkBite fittings are expensive (about 8x the cost of copper sweat fittings) but imo really shouldn't be installed in areas with no access, the plumbing company I work for in NJ won't allow SharkBite to be used for anything except to cap off stub outs, and never concealed inside of a wall. But that being said, I'm sure when properly installed (prepping the pipe/deburring) and strapping/securing the pipes properly, you'll probably be fine with sharkbite lol but lots of people just cut pipes and slide sharkbites onto them and call it a day lol
@@heimburgchr22ft.
@@heimburgchr22SW OCSA asked the
You didn't acoustic seal the vapor barrier at the bottom???
Looks like he's using sheet rock screws.. big no no.. pan head screws are required
What type of moisture barrier was used in this video? Is there a link of where to purchase some?
all i see is that plastic film which scares me lol
It looks like just regular plastic sheets that you can get at Lowes, Home Depot.
Very Good!... #68 {4-26-2024}
27 years Building and remodeling homes. I’ve never , not once seen or heard of setting a 3 piece pan in mortar. 😂
Do you use hot mop/ asphalt
Anyone else notice the missing finger?
Smart people do not use water based paint around water at all, unless they just like to repaint every couple of years.
Oil base paints Attracts mold and mildew . Latex or water base paints do not.
Keefui inpekte shawa
ha - who has all these special tools ?
Most of the tools are pretty common or cheap to buy. The inside cutter is like 10 bucks. The only thing that's expensive is the copper crimpers but you can just solder instead.
A drill bit and a drill. Just use shark bites instead of soldering
I happen to have a press tool available to me. Quite awesome, although, I only need to cap off the old tub sprigot, and extend my shower head up higher, so I'll probably just solder. I don't trust shark-bites inside a wall. I used them in my basement though, where I have acess.
Good lord could this be more f---ing complicated? Is there really no way to install a shower with 80 moving parts and so many points of failure down the road? It's showers like these that create a market for shower replacement kits
I didn't see anything complicated.
Fiberglass is much better , dont waste your money and time.
This is Fiberglass I think.