This is the only "thin strip jig" I've seen that does not require re-positioning the ripping fence for each successive cut--which makes it more accurate and precise. Craftsmanship is easy. Simple and elegant ideas are hard to find.
This is by far the best Thin Strip Jig I have seen. It also holds the cut piece off in a safe postion with no kick back. Great Job! This would be great for boxes and small projects that require edging.
I'm so glad i stumbled across this! I've had some endgrain serving boards that need some cool curves but couldn't find a jig where you didn't have to move the fence everytime to make strips🎉🎉
Outstanding! At first, I thought this jig was a bit of overkill when I had to cut a bunch of strips for some slatted shelves. Decided to go ahead and build it anyhow. Sure glad I did. Easy to build from scraps lying around and it enabled me to cut hundreds of strips very quickly, very safely, and very uniformely - I decided to make all my closet shelves slatted. The only drawback is that it enables me to wear out my saw blade twice as fast ;-)
A very nice solution to the problem of cutting thin strips. I am in the process of building it, and I've made some small modifications. I'm using threaded inserts with knurled knobs instead of cut-off screws and wingnuts. Also, when cutting very thin strips that would cut into the hold-down I screw in a nut between the hold-down and the base, which moves the hold-down away from the blade so it does not get cut. Thanks again for a very nice jig!
I made this jig a couple of days ago. Cut some edge banding. It works like a charm. Really innovative idea I not seen before. Thanks for the inspiration.
Ive been looking for something like this for a long time, to make consistent thickness splines for picture frames. You my friend are a godsend. Thank you so much.
Just made your thin strip jig. I made a few changes because of my table saw. It works really well. I’ve made a few other designs and they don’t work as well as yours.
Fix the jig firmly at the middle of the fence, centred alongside the blade. You could slide longer lengths in through the jig's guide. The wood would still be held down firmly on three sides (including from above) at the point where the blades is cutting. This preserves the full accuracy and cleanness of cut. It allows much longer strips to be cut accurately.
I built this jig and it works flawlessly in cutting 1/16” (1.6mm) crossband inlay strips. I used 1/4” MDF for the hold-down and a 1/16” thin-kerf saw blade. This allows me to bury the blade in the hold-down and thus maintain pressure on both the strip and the remaining cut-off piece through the entire cut.
I also installed a carriage bolt and locknut through both the fixed and hinged sections. This limits the upward travel of the hinge and allows the jig to be lifted without it opening up.
You my friend are a genius, I'm new to hobby woodworking and your videos are so helpful and inspiring, please keep up the good work I enjoy your channel so much 🏴
This is the best Thin Strip Jig I have come across so far. Most of the others, you need to adjust the fence each time. As far as production time and consistency, your jig is on the money mate! This is going on my 'project list'. All the best from OZ mate.
Don't get me wrong this is a great idea... but frankly I am not sure why this is much better than the usual technique of laying a sacrificial board down flat next to the fence and sliding the piece to be cut along that. I've been doing this for years and get precise, repeatable thin strips each time.
This is brilliant. I am making one. It appears to make strips that are exactly the same thickness, never achieved by moving the fence. I am planning to use a strip of hard plastic as a hold down that will be thinner than the MDF and more durable. I should allow fairly thin strips to be made. Also any one doing this should make a zero clearance insert.
The only downside is that you can only cut relatively short strips with it. The more conventional design where you set a fence behind the blade opposite the main fence allows you to cut longer strips, though you have to move the main fence every strip.
Hi, ich glaube, du verstehst mich. Das ist die bisher beste Dünnstreifenschneidevorrichtung. Mein Problem ist sonst immer, dass das Werkstück nach oben gedrückt wird. Mit deiner Lösung sollte das nicht mehr passieren. Klasse.
Great idea! Here is what I'don't like: 1) The piano hinge riding up against the fence; 2) You only made one stop block; 3) Why not consider toggle clamps to hold the board in place?
It would be really nice to have a tight zero clearance insert to make very small pieces that won't possibly get hung up between the blade. Nice video. Thanks for the suggestion.
Hey mate, been really loving all of your work especially how precise you are which is rare. I am stuck with a question and hoping you can help me, I recently purchased an air compressor and the instructions say to empty the tank at the end of each day but that inconvenient. Do you leave the tank with air so its ready when you need it? Anyways thanks much and looking forward to the next video!
I would say that has more to do with the company protecting themselves from potential litigation (as well as safety). It's fairly difficult for someone to hurt themselves with compressed air if the tank is empty ;) I never release the pressure from my compressors. It slowly dumps the compressed air over a few day anyway. It's good practice to regularly purge the water out of the tanks and work the pressure release safety valves briefly. I would get into the habit of switching the compressor off at the end of the day though. If you're purging the whole tank, by default you would be switching them off before you do that. I often forget so I have an electronic timer with a manual override switch. I also have a valve that separates the copper lines and compressor from the plastic lines around the workshop.
Compressed air produces a fair bit of moisture that builds up in the tank, this is the main reason they suggest the frequent purge. It will eventually rust your tank inside out. I wouldn't worry too much about every day, unless you bought cheap as chips compressor
I saw a product once, made or marketed in Canada, that was a moisture-protective oil for the air compressor tank. I am thinking it might have been in fine homebuilding magazine. At the time I was going to order it but difficulties arose. I think it was Christmastime or something that I totally forgot about it. We don't purge our air compressor tanks often, and they go through periods of disuse depending on projects. Anyone know about this type of product?
I think your idea is very ingenious and effective. i need to cut thin strips, about 3 mm, but very long, 800 mm, do you think a jig of that size would be a good idea?
@@ISIMPLYBUILTIT No you don't. Basic concept, nicely and simply executed, scrap bin build. Basic standard material sheet good thickness. Video and the use of the stop button gives plenty enough detail. Those who want plans are the type that want everything handed to them, intellectual laziness in the extreme. Don't waste time catering to the types and carry on with the next project. Don't get caught up with these types. If they have to have plans to execute such a basic concept with standard materials then they should not be allowed to handle the simplest of power tools. If they have to ask then it is most probable they will never build the jig anyway and you have wasted your efforts.
Thanks for making this video. I'm considering making myself a thin strip jig and this is an interesting design. I was so pleased you included practice runs with the jig and the work piece before you used it. That's a smart and safe practice! Don't forget your riving knife, too.
nice jig. one thing that would annoy me is when you lift it the hindge opens all the way . i would drill a hole in the top part and drive a kreg screw into the bottom part but leave it loose so you can still lift the top section 3-4mm but after that the screw stops it opening more
That is cool, but which would give better results, a table saw or bandsaw? Do you have a similar jig for a bandsaw by chance? ;) I would think a bandsaw would waste less wood due to thinner blades, but it depends on what you have to use of course.
Have you thought about making the width of the ripped piece variable by using threaded inserts in the bottom piece, a hole in the top piece? Just an idea in evolving...
I'm wondering about the little push piece at the back of the jig. Would there be a problem if it was taller than the stock and extending out past the blade to add extra stability?
@@Not_TVs_Frank Absorb the concept. No dimensions are critical. "valuable addition?" No. You need it because you are the type that needs everything handed to you. Any beginner woodworker could execute this build with out plans and just on the video and the stop video control button alone.
You need plans for this? Seriously? It is a scrap-bin build. Make to suit need. Push block does not need to be exactly the same dimensions. Standard thicknesses of sheet material.
I am so happy with this jig! I make cutting boards and am always hesitant to make thin strips for them. I saw this youtube video a while back and it was always on my mind when cutting thin strips. Well, I finally made it and it is awesome! Thank you so much for this video and plan. It's much appreciated! (my fingers thank you!)
@@ISIMPLYBUILTIT Beautiful country. Im from Canada, but my family are originally from Italy. Im gonna guess from your accent, you are from the German side of Switzerland.
Seems like it would cut 1/8" ( 3 mm ) strips that were only 12" ( 30 mm ) or so long. Any thinner and the strips look like that they would either fall into your throat plate gap or the blade would cut the hold down apart. For my use it would have to be able to cut strips up to 3" long ( I work in Imperial, I'm giving up on converting to metric here ) that would be 1/64" to 1/32". Useful for inlay stringing.
Hello ISBI, I have been searching for something like this for quite a while. You have earned a "Subscribe" from me - and I don't give out many of those! Any chance you have plans for this jig? I would really like to have something I could print and take to the shop. Great idea and execution. I will be making one asap.
![[DIY] How to make a jig for cutting thin strips / Table saw project #8 / HOMEMADE](/img/n.gif)
Easily the best thin strip jig I've seen - the ability to press down to control the strip is brilliant. Looks like I have another jig to make.
This is the only "thin strip jig" I've seen that does not require re-positioning the ripping fence for each successive cut--which makes it more accurate and precise. Craftsmanship is easy. Simple and elegant ideas are hard to find.
Thank you so much.
This is by far the best Thin Strip Jig I have seen. It also holds the cut piece off in a safe postion with no kick back. Great Job! This would be great for boxes and small projects that require edging.
Perfect solution. I was amazed how even with 24 teeth rip blade the cut is clean and with almost none blade marks. Impressive, sir!
I have been looking at a lot of videos regarding making a thin strip jig. This is definitely the one I will make. Thank you.
I'm so glad i stumbled across this! I've had some endgrain serving boards that need some cool curves but couldn't find a jig where you didn't have to move the fence everytime to make strips🎉🎉
Outstanding! At first, I thought this jig was a bit of overkill when I had to cut a bunch of strips for some slatted shelves. Decided to go ahead and build it anyhow. Sure glad I did. Easy to build from scraps lying around and it enabled me to cut hundreds of strips very quickly, very safely, and very uniformely - I decided to make all my closet shelves slatted. The only drawback is that it enables me to wear out my saw blade twice as fast ;-)
The simpler the jig design that delivers is the most elegant.
A very nice solution to the problem of cutting thin strips. I am in the process of building it, and I've made some small modifications. I'm using threaded inserts with knurled knobs instead of cut-off screws and wingnuts. Also, when cutting very thin strips that would cut into the hold-down I screw in a nut between the hold-down and the base, which moves the hold-down away from the blade so it does not get cut. Thanks again for a very nice jig!
I made this jig a couple of days ago. Cut some edge banding. It works like a charm. Really innovative idea I not seen before. Thanks for the inspiration.
I am happy if someone recreates my projects and is satisfied with the function. That is great praise for me and my work.
좋은 아이디어 입니다.
참고해서 만들어야겠습니다.
좋은 비디오 감사합니다.
감사합니다. 당신이 그것을 좋아하면 기쁘다.
I made a similar but simpler jig for this same task years ago, but kudos to you for sharing yours.
You didn't share yours. so we can't compare!
I think we might have a winner for the best thin strip jig.
Ive been looking for something like this for a long time, to make consistent thickness splines for picture frames. You my friend are a godsend. Thank you so much.
Just made your thin strip jig. I made a few changes because of my table saw. It works really well. I’ve made a few other designs and they don’t work as well as yours.
Fix the jig firmly at the middle of the fence, centred alongside the blade. You could slide longer lengths in through the jig's guide. The wood would still be held down firmly on three sides (including from above) at the point where the blades is cutting. This preserves the full accuracy and cleanness of cut. It allows much longer strips to be cut accurately.
This is pure genius and I will be putting this on my list of jigs to make. Thank you very much for posting this video.
Thanks. I'm glad if you like it.
Appraise it again.
Absolutely brilliant! I must make one for myself.
I like yours because we don't have to move the fence each time.
Cheers
Amazing jig - outstanding repeatable accuracy!!!
This is brilliant. I’ve been looking for a solution like this for two years.
You know when the shop has flip vise under the bench.. it’s going to be a good video
😄
I built this jig and it works flawlessly in cutting 1/16” (1.6mm) crossband inlay strips. I used 1/4” MDF for the hold-down and a 1/16” thin-kerf saw blade. This allows me to bury the blade in the hold-down and thus maintain pressure on both the strip and the remaining cut-off piece through the entire cut.
I also installed a carriage bolt and locknut through both the fixed and hinged sections. This limits the upward travel of the hinge and allows the jig to be lifted without it opening up.
You my friend are a genius, I'm new to hobby woodworking and your videos are so helpful and inspiring, please keep up the good work I enjoy your channel so much 🏴
thanks for that, really like the hinge idea to hold it all in place.
This is the best Thin Strip Jig I have come across so far. Most of the others, you need to adjust the fence each time. As far as production time and consistency, your jig is on the money mate! This is going on my 'project list'.
All the best from OZ mate.
2 hour build from the scrape bin,max. Get on it. Best simplest solution seen so far.
Thank you Machete Bushcraft Australia
Thank you.
Well done. Once set up, you could go on indefinitely making the same cut... Brilliant!
Nice. Simplicity + functionality = elegance.
Thanks.
Don't get me wrong this is a great idea... but frankly I am not sure why this is much better than the usual technique of laying a sacrificial board down flat next to the fence and sliding the piece to be cut along that. I've been doing this for years and get precise, repeatable thin strips each time.
Much better than having to reset the fence with each pass.
This is brilliant. I am making one. It appears to make strips that are exactly the same thickness, never achieved by moving the fence. I am planning to use a strip of hard plastic as a hold down that will be thinner than the MDF and more durable. I should allow fairly thin strips to be made.
Also any one doing this should make a zero clearance insert.
Thank you.
Safe. Smart. Effective. Wonderful. Thanks a lot.
Brillant. You earned my subscription on this, the very first video of yours I have seen. Looking forward to seeing the rest of them!
Thank you so much.
The only downside is that you can only cut relatively short strips with it. The more conventional design where you set a fence behind the blade opposite the main fence allows you to cut longer strips, though you have to move the main fence every strip.
Swiss precision in action on these strips 👍
What a wonderful idea and nicely made video. This is the first time I have seen a video of your and have subscribed straightaway! Thank you
Hi, ich glaube, du verstehst mich. Das ist die bisher beste Dünnstreifenschneidevorrichtung. Mein Problem ist sonst immer, dass das Werkstück nach oben gedrückt wird. Mit deiner Lösung sollte das nicht mehr passieren. Klasse.
Nice jig, would be perfect for cutting kumiko strips! Thanks for the video!
Great build. I have to make one soon.
Thanks for sharing
Looks good! And safe to use, this one will be my choice for kumiko strips.tnx for the effort!
I gave this video a thumbs up. I think it's great for ripping kumiko strips safely
Thanks. That's agood use for this jig. Maybe i'll try to do kumiko in the future.
This why I'm here. Trying to get consistent Kumiko strips has been frustrating. This looks great.
The best thin rip jig on TH-cam for short stock. Looks like even thinner cuts would be possible using a thin plastic for the adjustable hold down, eh?
Thanks man, simple and effective. 👍
If you make an adjustment on the back corner that's against the fence (in order to skew the jig slightly) it can also make door shims :)
That's a good idea.
I could have used that jig so many times. Subbed.
Very nice! Looks pretty safe..Great idea👍👍
Awesome...Loved it. I need to make one!. Thanks for the video !
Definitely on my “To do” list. Thank you. 👍
I'm glad if you like it.
Great idea!
Here is what I'don't like: 1) The piano hinge riding up against the fence; 2) You only made one stop block; 3) Why not consider toggle clamps to hold the board in place?
Thanks. 1) No the hinge does not riding against the fence. There is a space between the hinge and the fence. 2) ? 3) I think it's faster in use.
It would be really nice to have a tight zero clearance insert to make very small pieces that won't possibly get hung up between the blade. Nice video. Thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks
Hey mate, been really loving all of your work especially how precise you are which is rare. I am stuck with a question and hoping you can help me, I recently purchased an air compressor and the instructions say to empty the tank at the end of each day but that inconvenient. Do you leave the tank with air so its ready when you need it? Anyways thanks much and looking forward to the next video!
I would say that has more to do with the company protecting themselves from potential litigation (as well as safety). It's fairly difficult for someone to hurt themselves with compressed air if the tank is empty ;)
I never release the pressure from my compressors. It slowly dumps the compressed air over a few day anyway. It's good practice to regularly purge the water out of the tanks and work the pressure release safety valves briefly. I would get into the habit of switching the compressor off at the end of the day though. If you're purging the whole tank, by default you would be switching them off before you do that. I often forget so I have an electronic timer with a manual override switch. I also have a valve that separates the copper lines and compressor from the plastic lines around the workshop.
Compressed air produces a fair bit of moisture that builds up in the tank, this is the main reason they suggest the frequent purge. It will eventually rust your tank inside out. I wouldn't worry too much about every day, unless you bought cheap as chips compressor
I saw a product once, made or marketed in Canada, that was a moisture-protective oil for the air compressor tank. I am thinking it might have been in fine homebuilding magazine. At the time I was going to order it but difficulties arose. I think it was Christmastime or something that I totally forgot about it. We don't purge our air compressor tanks often, and they go through periods of disuse depending on projects. Anyone know about this type of product?
Nice jig. You can also make one of those to cut small wedges.
It also might be safer to use that on your sled.
I think your idea is very ingenious and effective. i need to cut thin strips, about 3 mm, but very long, 800 mm, do you think a jig of that size would be a good idea?
Great idea. Are there any plans in the works to be made available?
Thanks.
I have to make plans.
@@ISIMPLYBUILTIT No you don't. Basic concept, nicely and simply executed, scrap bin build. Basic standard material sheet good thickness. Video and the use of the stop button gives plenty enough detail. Those who want plans are the type that want everything handed to them, intellectual laziness in the extreme. Don't waste time catering to the types and carry on with the next project. Don't get caught up with these types.
If they have to have plans to execute such a basic concept with standard materials then they should not be allowed to handle the simplest of power tools. If they have to ask then it is most probable they will never build the jig anyway and you have wasted your efforts.
Fantastic. How long of a strip can you cut with this jig before it gets unsafe?
Thanks for making this video. I'm considering making myself a thin strip jig and this is an interesting design. I was so pleased you included practice runs with the jig and the work piece before you used it. That's a smart and safe practice! Don't forget your riving knife, too.
Thanks.
Nice simple design. If I can offer a suggestion please show your design in use at the beginning of your video and then how to make it.
Great idea. Would this be better or safer or work with a riving knife? Thanks.
I like it - I am thinking about starting some kumiko and this will be nice
Very impressed by the way you managed to route the slots in the MDF!
Thank you. So far as I know, this is the only way to do it with such a small piece.
Love your glue spreading jig.
Dude yes. I can make miter splines as well as Kumiko pieces with this.
Next video, I would absolutely lose it if you cried out, "Get to the Choppa!"
Lmao!
Nonetheless, great video mate!
Thank you. Great idea. I’ll use this. Very helpful.
Thanks
Very slick sir. Great vid
thanks for sharing. What table saw do you recommend for thin pieces ? I m planning to saw to 6mm.
me encanta tus proyectos. pero porque amigo no dejas ni un plano de los proyectos que haces?
Nice jig. Good job using your hand to focus the camera on those close ups.
Thank you.
This is the Best jig that i look
Absolutely amazing. Thank you.
Nicely done!
Please say " get to the choppa" before you go to the miter saw. LOL
Btw this is the jig I've been needing. Thank you.
nice jig. one thing that would annoy me is when you lift it the hindge opens all the way . i would drill a hole in the top part and drive a kreg screw into the bottom part but leave it loose so you can still lift the top section 3-4mm but after that the screw stops it opening more
Thanks. That‘s a really good idea.
Yep, and add a spring so it will open automatically each time you let pressure go on the handle, ready to release and reload! Excellent jig.
excellent jig well done.
That is cool, but which would give better results, a table saw or bandsaw? Do you have a similar jig for a bandsaw by chance? ;) I would think a bandsaw would waste less wood due to thinner blades, but it depends on what you have to use of course.
can you plz tell me why have you use 2 blades in reverse direction?
Precision cutting there.Surely on my to do list.
Very impressive! 👍🏻
Thanks
“Come wit me if you want live”…. LOL
VERY well done! !! !!!
Thank you.
Have you thought about making the width of the ripped piece variable by using threaded inserts in the bottom piece, a hole in the top piece? Just an idea in evolving...
I'm wondering about the little push piece at the back of the jig. Would there be a problem if it was taller than the stock and extending out past the blade to add extra stability?
What saw blade is that? Looks almost like you have two blades installed at once?!
Well done!!!!
Thanks
Do sell the plans for this?
Nice build man.
Greets Danny from the Netherlands
I have to make plans.
I'm glad if you like it.
@@ISIMPLYBUILTIT I hope you do release some plans. This is not the most complex jig but I still think it would be valuable addition to the video.
@@Not_TVs_Frank Absorb the concept. No dimensions are critical. "valuable addition?" No. You need it because you are the type that needs everything handed to you. Any beginner woodworker could execute this build with out plans and just on the video and the stop video control button alone.
You need plans for this? Seriously?
It is a scrap-bin build. Make to suit need. Push block does not need to be exactly the same dimensions. Standard thicknesses of sheet material.
Best one on the net.
Awesome jig. Thank you.
I am so happy with this jig! I make cutting boards and am always hesitant to make thin strips for them. I saw this youtube video a while back and it was always on my mind when cutting thin strips. Well, I finally made it and it is awesome! Thank you so much for this video and plan. It's much appreciated! (my fingers thank you!)
Very nice jig!
Are you from Germany?
Thanks. No i'm from Switzerland.
@@ISIMPLYBUILTIT
Beautiful country. Im from Canada, but my family are originally from Italy. Im gonna guess from your accent, you are from the German side of Switzerland.
Very nice 👍😀
Do you sell plans for this?
Looking to strip brown ash boards 1" thick 8' long.Thin as a 16 of inch for Adirondack baskets
interesting idea, will have to try, cheers
Love the jig. Am I the only one that thinks this video sounds like it was narrated by Arnold Schwarzenegger?
Seems like it would cut 1/8" ( 3 mm ) strips that were only 12" ( 30 mm ) or so long. Any thinner and the strips look like that they would either fall into your throat plate gap or the blade would cut the hold down apart. For my use it would have to be able to cut strips up to 3" long ( I work in Imperial, I'm giving up on converting to metric here ) that would be 1/64" to 1/32". Useful for inlay stringing.
that is awesome, thanks for sharing
outstanding!!!!
How about adding a replaceable board across the back. It would be like using a cross cut sled.
That could be done. But for what purpose?
Hello ISBI, I have been searching for something like this for quite a while. You have earned a "Subscribe" from me - and I don't give out many of those! Any chance you have plans for this jig? I would really like to have something I could print and take to the shop. Great idea and execution. I will be making one asap.
Simples e eficiente. Valeu.
obrigado
Smart idea