I’ve seen a few jigs like yours and if I can make a suggestion. The piece you screwed on the back to hold the stock if you use a piece that is higher than the stock you are cutting and extend it farther out it will not only push the piece you want to cut but will also push the entire piece of stock reducing any kickback.
Of all the videos I watched on thin strips jigs, this one is the simplest and most effective-way to "keep it simple stupid" and not overthink it. I made a series of them 1/8, 1/4", etc... Thank you!
I don’t understand the part about 1/8”, 1/4”, etc. Doesn’t this jig make all thicknesses? Just move the table saw fence right to make thicker strips and left to make thinner strips.
Nice idea. Only thing that catches my attention is that since you need to hold both sides to keep the stock from slipping to the left, it forces you to be directly behind the blade in the path of any kickback. I feel like a 1 sided sled with a stop block would be safer, right?
I think in general you're right. Standing directly behind what you're cutting should be avoided whenever possible. The table saw is always a challenging tool to be safe around. I think even a two sided sled would work just fine as well but I think I might try a one sided version like you say. Thanks for the idea👍
I saw Colin Knechts video about one year ago. And I made a jig according to that with some (minor) changes. It works quite OK. Not perfect because I didn't make it enough precisely. This winter I'm going to make a better version. Thanks for sharing the video. it is a good reminder for me.
Excellent tutorial! Super easy jig, and a accurate, safe and repeatable method for cutting thin strips. There is no such thing as cheating! Anything that makes life in the workshop easier and safer, needs no apology 👍
That will definitely be less setup between cuts but you can only cut short strips, the other jig will cut any size. Looks like I may need this jig too, thanks for sharing
Great jig! Beats having to move the fence every time. Can I offer one possible improvement? After you push the wood through the blade you had to reach a long way forward to get that thin strip of wood to clear the blade out the back of the saw. It seems to me that if you set your offset halfway on the jig rather than right at the back you would not have to lean so far over the blade.
Thank you! Yes, reaching over the blade is something I never like to do. The shots in this video are actually the very first time using the jig. Now that I have used it a lot ( watch the 1000 piece cutting board video 😉 ), I now just let the pieces fall since I don't have an out feed table yet. For real short strips I think your idea might work just fine. I may have to experiment and give that a try. Thanks for watching!
@@LTDWoodworks I was thinking about this today as well, an easier fix might be to extend your grip/handle back towards yourself. It would then work somewhat like a push-stick. I did watch the 1000 piece cutting board video, I would not have the patience. It turned out great, I liked the pattern.
This is a great method. I"m trying to cut a lot of 3/16 inch irregular shapes that don't have a flat bottom. Any suggestions, maybe something similar to what you did in this one
Well, I think I would have to see what you are actually cutting 🤔 Any way to make a flat edge or are you trying to keep the irregular shape? Maybe a bandsaw would be better for your situation? Or you could email me some pictures and we could decide from there.
Very good method - probably w/ more consistent thickness results than other thin strip jigs I've built where you have to snug the fence up to the jig's wheel/index every cut as the stock gets smaller. However, the thick beam/handle and solid 3"x 3" or 4" x 4" is quite heavy, and using SOLID stock isn't necessary. I think will modify the design by making a hollow version of the 3x3" or 4"x4" --i.e., just using 2 pieces of 1/2" (3/4" max) plywood w/ spacer/support (forming an upside down "U"). Of course accurately jointing this U-box before assembly will be critical. I'm pondering yet another variation where the push stick/jig rides on the fence. Thanks for video.
Totally agree that this type of jig doesn't have to be so solid. I have a tendency to use what I have laying around so that I can put it together quickly. My shop time is VERY limited so this one was very quick to throw together. I can see my self making a lighter version one day down the road. But hey, it was a great work out!😉 I also think that the base doesn't need to be tall at all. Just sturdy to hold the back support piece is probably all that's needed which I believe is what you are saying. Hope to see your version one day. Thanks for watching!
Morning, nice job looks like he can rip out some nice strips with that, I am wanting some thing that you can make different sizes I guess you could always just put a shim between the push block and the fence and remove them when you need a different size? Question for you though I watched you run that piece of scrap through your jointer but when you placed it up against your fence to do the initial cut off of the excess it appeared in the video that there was a rather large gap at the top which would indicate to me that either your jointer fence is off out of square or your tablesaw fence is out? Just an observation could be a obstacle illusions. Anyway thanks for the great idea.
Thank you! If I remember right, it was probably the jointer. That old jointer was not very good. I have since sold it as it wouldn't hold square very well and got a better one. Nice and square now👍 I've been meaning to get around to making a better one that is lighter and better built. So many things to build and so little time. Oh well... Thanks for watching👍
It is! I'll have to look into that. My fence does pretty well so it hasn't been a real concern. But always looking to make things better so I'll see what's available. Thanks!
i need this exactly but my problem is i need a set up where the max height for wood im using is up to 140 or 150 mm in height strips any ideas for set up as most tables that i know are 12 inch and dont give me enough vertical height for the strips i need ..anyone ?
I've used that background music before in my videos... Some people don't like it, but I find it pretty fun! 😊 Anyway, fantastic jig, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nope, the back piece sticking out only an 1/8” should still push just about any thickness above the 1/8”. It’s really just there to push the wood. Another thought which I would like to do it make an adjustable piece in the back that would slide out more when needed.
I assume you mean making each board roughly a 1/4” thick by 5.5” wide because my guess is the board is about a 1/2” thick to begin with? If so, do you have a bandsaw with a fence? That’s probably what I would use. The use of a table saw can be done but would not be as safe.
Sorry for the stupid question, i'm new to woodworking, Why can't we just put our fence at the right thickness & cut the strips using only the fence as a guide? Thanks for your great video
No worries! Doing the method you describe would have a greater risk of getting the cut piece pinched between the blade and the fence. So after it's cut free it could get shot back at you at a million miles an hour. Not good! So basically the method in my video is MUCH safer👍 Thanks for watching👍
I have👍 I think in the future I’m going to make a new and improved version. I threw this version together pretty quick as I had a deadline to meet at that time. Thanks for watching!👍
If you used a larger tail hook piece made from Baltic birch ply that is above the blade to provide support, it becomes a mini sled kinda. And then safer as well.
I personally use any of the Freud blades. In my experience they work great and are way less expensive then some "high end" blades like Forest blades. Thanks for watching!
The only "jig" I use so far on mine is a fence I made out of plywood. This would work just fine for cutting thin strips on the band saw. Just set your thickness and push the wood through with a scrap piece of wood to protect your fingers. Good to go! Thanks for watching!
Solid idea, but the riving knife is hauling a lot of weight in regards to safety. I'm imagining that stock being launched upwards from the back of the blade if it wasn't there.
So, just because someone has lots of expensive tools this means they can't try to save money? Maybe this person is trying very hard to build a business and put money where it is most important. Maybe saving money on a simple jig like this has allowed someone to save enough money to purchase better and more expensive tools. Maybe this person is trying to help others that don't have the money to buy certain things needed to do a job. I'm not sure if I'm miss reading your comment or not, but it "sounds" like a snide comment. So, if I'm right in how I'm reading your comment I would say I love how someone could leave a comment like yours when they obviously have no clue on someone else's background or reason to make a video like this. I would say that if you don't have anything nice to say then don't say anything at all. If I did in fact miss read your comment, you have my apologies. Otherwise, next time just move on.
@@LTDWoodworks I wasn't trying to offend you, as I loved what you made! Unfortunately, I can't use your instructions.. Most DIYers on youtube looking for help, are similar to me.. Beginners who are starting out w a limited number of woodworking tools...I love it, but don't have the tools to make it .
Hi, Cody!! Sir, I need to re-saw (Mahogany) 10 foot plus, rough 2 x 6, into finished 1 x 6 for decking purposes. Question, after the jointer, what blade should I use in the table saw? P.S i have a thickness planer; can you suggest a process, that utilizes the mentioned equipment? FYI, I'm in The Philippines.
Hi! For the blade on your table saw I typically use a Freud name brand 10" thin kerf rip saw blade. There's better blades but for the price and for the amount of work that I do, these work great. For your process I would probably rip them just a bit thicker than what you need. Then run them through your thicknesser to the correct thickness. All being sure to run both sides of the piece so both sides are nice and flat. Hope that makes sense and helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.
I would think that this jig would work for something that long. You would just be starting the jig with your cut piece farther back while still resting up against your table saw fence. Or you would just have to make a longer jig. That does make me think that I'll verify the longest length that this current jig would cut safely. So I'll check and let you know👍
Hi. What's the thinnest piece of wood strip you could produce on the table saw? I need to get 1/32inch and 1/64inch strips and wanted to see if you thought it would be possible to cut strips that thin on the table saw
Well I personally have no experience cutting anything less then around an 1/8". My opinion is that when you start going much less then say 1/16" the wood would loose it's stability. 1/32 and 1/64 is incredibly thin. Yes, that's the range that most wood veneers are made but I'm not sure of the process to get it that thin. So, it might be interesting to try. But with my saw not being a high end saw I would worry that when trying that thin just pushing the work piece thru the blade would cause the work piece to "rock" slightly side to side. Now I'm only thinking it would "rock" side to side by a 1/32 or so but that would be an issue when working this thin. Basically causing inconsistencies in the wood. Maybe a combo of a table saw and a drum sander would be best. Of course only if you had a drum sander as well.
All fine, but use a planer push block to press the workpiece towards the saw blade. BTW I don't understand why people are so indifferent with simple security precautions.
Hello my friend. Great idea to cut strip wood in a table saw. I watched with curiosity. It's nice to create and share a variety of ideas to help many people. Congratulations ... I wish you a nice weekend. Great greetings...
Great answer but no. It was for my 1000 piece cutting board I made for when I reached 1000 subscribers on TH-cam. Check out that video👍 Thanks for watching!
@@LTDWoodworks Merci pour la réponse, non je ne suis pas français mais j'aime la france Je veux me dire, quelle est la taille réelle du morceau de bois de remorquage que vous êtes habitué à ce gabarit? votre taille de gabarit en bois? Merci
The main base wood is 17" (43.18cm) long, 3"(7.62cm) wide, 3.25"(8.255cm) tall. The small piece on the back is 3"(7.62cm) wide by 2.25"(5.715cm) tall. It sticks out from the base .25" (.635cm). Hope this helps!
That’s the point of this jig. It’s so you don’t have to move the fence each time. This way the cut pieces are exactly the same width every cut. This jig acts as the fence, it just moves as you cut. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching 👍
@@LTDWoodworks Thanks for the reply. I mean though wouldn't your fence stay in the same place (say 1/8") if your work piece is between the fence and blade? then you keep cutting new strips from the discard piece. The problem would just be in pushing it through. Maybe it's not possible without the jig?
I'm trying to cut 1/2" x 1 1/2" strips from a 2x4. It will be fine with just a push stick until I get to a square input piece of wood. Then there may be a tendency for it to flip over. What kind of jig would you suggest for that?
Ah, gotcha. In that scenario I would say that's too dangerous. Trying to push a 1/8" thick piece of wood pass the blade would just be too hard even with a push stick, etc.
First question would be how long of a piece are you try to cut as well? I would say the one issue with the jig in this video is the length of a cut that it can safely make. It's around 17" to 20" max. For me I would say that if your total length is longer and the thickness is your 1/2" thick by 1 1/2" thick, it would be ok to use just your fence with a push stick. So no jig needed. If the length happens to be shorter than the 20" then using the jig would be a safer route to go.
That was my older Delta wood jointer. I sold that one to get a slightly bigger one though. It makes a flat surface along one edge of wood. If you have any other questions just let me know. Thanks for watching!
Yep, you’re absolutely right. But the table saw blade leaves a much smoother surface as opposed to a band saw blade. I didn’t want to have to sand all that much. It was a one off project so oh well.
@@LTDWoodworks I watched that following this, that was pretty slick, 1000 piece cutting board. I'm a hobbyist and just getting into woodwork so I don't know all the ins and outs and don't own all the gear, just watching some videos to get some ideas. Take care!
It’s because it’s not easy or safe to push a thin piece past the blade. If you were to just push the main piece through the blade and once the thin piece is free of the main portion it would stop between the spinning blade and the fence. While it’s stopped there it also as a HIGH chance of being shot back towards you if you’re standing behind the blade (which you should try not to do anyways). So, this method is also about safety. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah I guess that does make sense. Could you also put a stop block against the fence and use the miter gauge? That way you’re repeatable and accurate but the thin off cut isn’t binding ?
It is needed. That 1/8" of wood that sticks out in my case is actually what pushes the wood thru as you are pushing the whole jig. 1/8" because that's how thick the thin strips I wanted were. If it was not there or just flush there would be nothing to push the wood forward. Hope that helps.
Great jig! Also, I noticed your excellent platform set up for your drill press. I'm going to adopt (steal actually) this design for mine and my Dad's! Will credit you and show your video to him. He's going to love it. Going to use knobs instead since his hands are getting pretty bad.
Thanks! For the drill press table I have actually built a new one that works much better! Be sure to check out my build video on it. It has T-Tracks with knob operated hold downs for the work pieces so you can be hands free. And it has built it dust collection! Thanks for watching!
Yes, the table saw is definitely the most dangerous tool in the shop. I "try" to be aware of what I'm doing at all times by using what I call the most important tool in the shop which is the brain. I will never say that it (brain) gets used like it's supposed to but I at least try. A SawStop Saw is on my list. This will at the very least help when my brain doesn't work and I do something very stupid. Stay safe everyone!
![[DIY] How to make a jig for cutting thin strips / Table saw project #8 / HOMEMADE](/img/n.gif)
I’ve seen a few jigs like yours and if I can make a suggestion. The piece you screwed on the back to hold the stock if you use a piece that is higher than the stock you are cutting and extend it farther out it will not only push the piece you want to cut but will also push the entire piece of stock reducing any kickback.
Thanks for the suggestion. Definitely worth a try👍
Or puch it into the back of the blade?
Of all the videos I watched on thin strips jigs, this one is the simplest and most effective-way to "keep it simple stupid" and not overthink it. I made a series of them 1/8, 1/4", etc... Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching!
I don’t understand the part about 1/8”, 1/4”, etc. Doesn’t this jig make all thicknesses? Just move the table saw fence right to make thicker strips and left to make thinner strips.
Nice idea. Only thing that catches my attention is that since you need to hold both sides to keep the stock from slipping to the left, it forces you to be directly behind the blade in the path of any kickback. I feel like a 1 sided sled with a stop block would be safer, right?
I think in general you're right. Standing directly behind what you're cutting should be avoided whenever possible. The table saw is always a challenging tool to be safe around. I think even a two sided sled would work just fine as well but I think I might try a one sided version like you say. Thanks for the idea👍
I saw Colin Knechts video about one year ago. And I made a jig according to that with some (minor) changes.
It works quite OK. Not perfect because I didn't make it enough precisely. This winter I'm going to make a better version.
Thanks for sharing the video. it is a good reminder for me.
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching!
I'm 100% making this push stick, I'm always making thin cuts and struggling through the process. Thanks for sharing this great solution.
Definitely do. It's well worth the time to make it👍
Excellent tutorial! Super easy jig, and a accurate, safe and repeatable method for cutting thin strips. There is no such thing as cheating! Anything that makes life in the workshop easier and safer, needs no apology 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching!👍
thats good and all for short pieces,but what about 4 to 6 ft boards?
Great idea!
I'm a pretty amateur woodworker myself...I recently bought a used table saw, and I'm just amazed at the possibilities it opens up!
Thank you! The world of woodworking itself has endless possibilities. It’s up to all of us to try and find them😊👍
Way too dangerous
realy it is the faster method that I ever saw to get a lot of srips with the same thikness.
Thanks a lot for this video.
You are most welcome and thanks for watching!
That will definitely be less setup between cuts but you can only cut short strips, the other jig will cut any size. Looks like I may need this jig too, thanks for sharing
Very true. If I remember right this one will do around 18 to 20 inches safety. Beyond that you would have to go the other route. Thanks for watching!
That's incredible once you know how thank you very much I'll give it a go very helpful
Great jig! Beats having to move the fence every time.
Can I offer one possible improvement?
After you push the wood through the blade you had to reach a long way forward to get that thin strip of wood to clear the blade out the back of the saw.
It seems to me that if you set your offset halfway on the jig rather than right at the back you would not have to lean so far over the blade.
Thank you! Yes, reaching over the blade is something I never like to do. The shots in this video are actually the very first time using the jig. Now that I have used it a lot ( watch the 1000 piece cutting board video 😉 ), I now just let the pieces fall since I don't have an out feed table yet.
For real short strips I think your idea might work just fine. I may have to experiment and give that a try. Thanks for watching!
@@LTDWoodworks I was thinking about this today as well, an easier fix might be to extend your grip/handle back towards yourself. It would then work somewhat like a push-stick.
I did watch the 1000 piece cutting board video, I would not have the patience. It turned out great, I liked the pattern.
This is why I like the TH-cam world, everyone has great ideas! Thanks again for watching!
This is a great method. I"m trying to cut a lot of 3/16 inch irregular shapes that don't have a flat bottom. Any suggestions, maybe something similar to what you did in this one
Well, I think I would have to see what you are actually cutting 🤔 Any way to make a flat edge or are you trying to keep the irregular shape? Maybe a bandsaw would be better for your situation? Or you could email me some pictures and we could decide from there.
@@LTDWoodworks I'm cutting out "wings" for whirligigs
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Very much appreciated.
You’re welcome and thanks for watching!👍
Very good method - probably w/ more consistent thickness results than other thin strip jigs I've built where you have to snug the fence up to the jig's wheel/index every cut as the stock gets smaller. However, the thick beam/handle and solid 3"x 3" or 4" x 4" is quite heavy, and using SOLID stock isn't necessary. I think will modify the design by making a hollow version of the 3x3" or 4"x4" --i.e., just using 2 pieces of 1/2" (3/4" max) plywood w/ spacer/support (forming an upside down "U"). Of course accurately jointing this U-box before assembly will be critical. I'm pondering yet another variation where the push stick/jig rides on the fence. Thanks for video.
Totally agree that this type of jig doesn't have to be so solid. I have a tendency to use what I have laying around so that I can put it together quickly. My shop time is VERY limited so this one was very quick to throw together. I can see my self making a lighter version one day down the road. But hey, it was a great work out!😉 I also think that the base doesn't need to be tall at all. Just sturdy to hold the back support piece is probably all that's needed which I believe is what you are saying. Hope to see your version one day. Thanks for watching!
Great! The only limit maybe is to cut long strips. Thanks for sharing ideas.
True, I would say this is definitely for shorter strips. Thanks for watching 👍
@LTDWoodworks how would you make one for long strips? We are planning to re saw lots of long teak strips for a teak deck on our sailboat.
I need to make 36 - 40 inch 1/8 - 1/4 pieces. Any tips for cutting long lengths like ?
1000 strips! Looking forward to that.
Technically a certain amount of strips that will be cut into 1000 pieces 👍
Morning, nice job looks like he can rip out some nice strips with that, I am wanting some thing that you can make different sizes I guess you could always just put a shim between the push block and the fence and remove them when you need a different size? Question for you though I watched you run that piece of scrap through your jointer but when you placed it up against your fence to do the initial cut off of the excess it appeared in the video that there was a rather large gap at the top which would indicate to me that either your jointer fence is off out of square or your tablesaw fence is out? Just an observation could be a obstacle illusions. Anyway thanks for the great idea.
Thank you! If I remember right, it was probably the jointer. That old jointer was not very good. I have since sold it as it wouldn't hold square very well and got a better one. Nice and square now👍 I've been meaning to get around to making a better one that is lighter and better built. So many things to build and so little time. Oh well... Thanks for watching👍
Delta T1 right! Best table saw. Surprised u have not upgraded the fence
It is! I'll have to look into that. My fence does pretty well so it hasn't been a real concern. But always looking to make things better so I'll see what's available. Thanks!
Brilliant so easy. Cheers
Great idea, but my thin strips are often 18 inches long. I would need a jig over 18 inches long... , maybe 24 inch.....????
easy and fast.
Thank you for this vedio.
Most welcome 😊
i need this exactly but my problem is i need a set up where the max height for wood im using is up to 140 or 150 mm in height strips any ideas for set up as most tables that i know are 12 inch and dont give me enough vertical height for the strips i need ..anyone ?
I've used that background music before in my videos... Some people don't like it, but I find it pretty fun! 😊
Anyway, fantastic jig, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Ya, I find as well that you can't please everyone when it comes to music. Oh well... Thanks for watching!
This is so easy, its genius 👏
I am assuming if you want to cut 1/8” and 1/4” strips you would need to build x2 separate jigs or add a new piece on the back each time?
Nope, the back piece sticking out only an 1/8” should still push just about any thickness above the 1/8”. It’s really just there to push the wood. Another thought which I would like to do it make an adjustable piece in the back that would slide out more when needed.
Great Vid! Is there a jig to split 5.5 redwood fence boards down the middle to make two thin boards?
I assume you mean making each board roughly a 1/4” thick by 5.5” wide because my guess is the board is about a 1/2” thick to begin with? If so, do you have a bandsaw with a fence? That’s probably what I would use. The use of a table saw can be done but would not be as safe.
Simple and Ingenious! Thanks!
You're welcome!
I need to make thin strips 16'0 long?
That is such a simple setup to gain a ton of efficiency!
Thanks! Any day now I'll start putting it to the test cutting up over 200 strips👍😬
That looks like a much better design! 👍
Yep, as I've said before it's ugly but works great!👍
Sorry for the stupid question, i'm new to woodworking,
Why can't we just put our fence at the right thickness & cut the strips using only the fence as a guide?
Thanks for your great video
No worries! Doing the method you describe would have a greater risk of getting the cut piece pinched between the blade and the fence. So after it's cut free it could get shot back at you at a million miles an hour. Not good! So basically the method in my video is MUCH safer👍 Thanks for watching👍
@@LTDWoodworks Thanks a lot 👍
Very good. I really like it. Tanks you.
Did you consider making the stop block you cut off, a sliding stop block so you can cut different thickness of strips?
I have👍 I think in the future I’m going to make a new and improved version. I threw this version together pretty quick as I had a deadline to meet at that time. Thanks for watching!👍
If you used a larger tail hook piece made from Baltic birch ply that is above the blade to
provide support, it becomes a mini sled kinda. And then safer as well.
great idea, i'm going to use it..
Great jig
Thank you! It's ugly but it works!👍
Now this, is a simple jig!
Yep, and it works great! I’m still thinking of making a better one though with some better features. Stay tuned 👍
How effective would this be for resawing a board to make thin strips for an edge grain cutting board
I would say very effective since that’s exactly why I made this jig👍 Check out my other video on my 1000 piece cutting board 👍
This is one thing I’ve always never enjoyed doing. Cutting thin strips for splines. Always trial are error to get the right fit. Nice video ✌🏻😃
Thank you, about to put it to use starting the big project I mentioned. Strips, strips everywhere!
LTD Woodworks look forward to seeing it! 🙌🏻
I’d prefer to square up the right side (against the fence) with the bottom of the push block to avoid left/right wobble.
show me a video of how you do that other wise i'm going to try this.
Hey, I just bought a dewalt 7491rs and was wondering if you recommend thin kerf or full kerf for cutting and ripping hardwood. Thanks
I personally use any of the Freud blades. In my experience they work great and are way less expensive then some "high end" blades like Forest blades. Thanks for watching!
Cool, I think you are going to cover the whole wall with the 1,000,000 strips...;0)
It’s great that you gave a shout out to Collin...
Ok, let's not get crazy with 1,000,000 strips!😳 And yes, got to give credit where credit is due 👍
Beats the jig I've been using. Thks
No problem, thanks for watching 👍
Are there jigs that will work on band saw
The only "jig" I use so far on mine is a fence I made out of plywood. This would work just fine for cutting thin strips on the band saw. Just set your thickness and push the wood through with a scrap piece of wood to protect your fingers. Good to go! Thanks for watching!
I like this one, if I never need some thin strips I know whos jig I will use!
Thanks and thanks for watching!👍
Solid idea, but the riving knife is hauling a lot of weight in regards to safety. I'm imagining that stock being launched upwards from the back of the blade if it wasn't there.
That's really cool, I need to rip a few thin strips for my next project so I may steal this idea ✌️
Go for it! It's supper easy to make and use👍
Great for short stock...what about longer stock?
Ya, this one is only good for around 20". I would use this method for longer stock. th-cam.com/video/HLH3o91II4A/w-d-xo.html
Awesome. Great idea buddy!
Thank you and thanks for watching!👍
Great video. You have some very nice tools.
Thank you! And I’m still collecting. He who dies with the most tools, wins!😆
Very useful! Just finished sawing wenge . The result is great!
Thank you very much!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Another great jig! Now I'm really curious as to what you'll need 1,000 thin strips for... 🤔😉
Well you'll just have to wait and see 😉 Admittedly I'm nervous that it will turn out ok. But we'll see!😀
@@LTDWoodworks Seriously can't wait to see what you do - already know it'll be an epic build. 😀
@@JustMightDIY Think small but epic😉
@@LTDWoodworks I ❤️epic!
gooood job Dad from Tucker
Wow superb
Thank you! Cheers!
Great idea!
Yep, couldn't be more easy to make and use!👍
Wow really smart i like it
Thank you!
I love how these videos show you how to "save money" making a DIY product in a workshop full of $1000 + tools..
So, just because someone has lots of expensive tools this means they can't try to save money? Maybe this person is trying very hard to build a business and put money where it is most important. Maybe saving money on a simple jig like this has allowed someone to save enough money to purchase better and more expensive tools. Maybe this person is trying to help others that don't have the money to buy certain things needed to do a job. I'm not sure if I'm miss reading your comment or not, but it "sounds" like a snide comment. So, if I'm right in how I'm reading your comment I would say I love how someone could leave a comment like yours when they obviously have no clue on someone else's background or reason to make a video like this. I would say that if you don't have anything nice to say then don't say anything at all. If I did in fact miss read your comment, you have my apologies. Otherwise, next time just move on.
@@LTDWoodworks I wasn't trying to offend you, as I loved what you made! Unfortunately, I can't use your instructions.. Most DIYers on youtube looking for help, are similar to me.. Beginners who are starting out w a limited number of woodworking tools...I love it, but don't have the tools to make it .
Hi, Cody!! Sir, I need to re-saw (Mahogany) 10 foot plus, rough 2 x 6, into finished 1 x 6 for decking purposes. Question, after the jointer, what blade should I use in the table saw? P.S i have a thickness planer; can you suggest a process, that utilizes the mentioned equipment? FYI, I'm in The Philippines.
Hi! For the blade on your table saw I typically use a Freud name brand 10" thin kerf rip saw blade. There's better blades but for the price and for the amount of work that I do, these work great. For your process I would probably rip them just a bit thicker than what you need. Then run them through your thicknesser to the correct thickness. All being sure to run both sides of the piece so both sides are nice and flat. Hope that makes sense and helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.
I think you are going to be building OSB strand board. Right?
Like the channel.
Not quite, it was for a 1000 piece cutting board 👍
BTW, take care with Cody... He shoot at Obi-Wan and he was his friend as well! 😬
Nice jig
Thank you and thanks for watching!
What happens if you want a piece of thin strip around 16 to 20 inches long
I would think that this jig would work for something that long. You would just be starting the jig with your cut piece farther back while still resting up against your table saw fence. Or you would just have to make a longer jig. That does make me think that I'll verify the longest length that this current jig would cut safely. So I'll check and let you know👍
Yep, just check. The total length of me jig is around 17.25" so it would handle up around 20" long strips just fine👍
On a band saw a jig like this would make less waste.
Now that's how you do it.
Ya buddy, it works great!
Hi. What's the thinnest piece of wood strip you could produce on the table saw? I need to get 1/32inch and 1/64inch strips and wanted to see if you thought it would be possible to cut strips that thin on the table saw
Well I personally have no experience cutting anything less then around an 1/8". My opinion is that when you start going much less then say 1/16" the wood would loose it's stability. 1/32 and 1/64 is incredibly thin. Yes, that's the range that most wood veneers are made but I'm not sure of the process to get it that thin.
So, it might be interesting to try. But with my saw not being a high end saw I would worry that when trying that thin just pushing the work piece thru the blade would cause the work piece to "rock" slightly side to side. Now I'm only thinking it would "rock" side to side by a 1/32 or so but that would be an issue when working this thin. Basically causing inconsistencies in the wood.
Maybe a combo of a table saw and a drum sander would be best. Of course only if you had a drum sander as well.
Thanks for this video!! You are awesome.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Congrats on the shoutout! Christofix sent me! 😀😇😎
Thanks! Ya, awesome channel Chris has👍 Thanks for watching!
I'm guessing parquetry flooring.
All fine, but use a planer push block to press the workpiece towards the saw blade.
BTW I don't understand why people are so indifferent with simple security precautions.
thumbs up for the idea and subscribed because the dog! :D
Excellent reason to subscribe! Thank you!
This maybe a silly question, but, do you ever get worried that the strings from your hoodie will somehow get caught?
but what did you think of the jig, i mean isn't that the reason we're all here...
How to cut long thin pieces
Thank you
You’re welcome
Hello my friend.
Great idea to cut strip wood in a table saw. I watched with curiosity. It's nice to create and share a variety of ideas to help many people. Congratulations ... I wish you a nice weekend. Great greetings...
Thank you and stay tuned for a big project coming soon.
Thank you for the video! 👍👍👍
You’re welcome and thanks for watching!👍
Plantation shutters is my guess
Great answer but no. It was for my 1000 piece cutting board I made for when I reached 1000 subscribers on TH-cam. Check out that video👍 Thanks for watching!
That’s cool if your strips are 1’ long
Canoe 🛶??
Ha, no. That would be a cool project one day though!👍 Try again!😉
Your making a strip wood boat?
Hi Mr. how are you?
please give me full size of tow wood Piece?
Êtes vous Français? Si oui, je n'ai pas compris votre question? Peux-tu réessayer?
@@LTDWoodworks Merci pour la réponse, non je ne suis pas français mais j'aime la france
Je veux me dire, quelle est la taille réelle du morceau de bois de remorquage que vous êtes habitué à ce gabarit? votre taille de gabarit en bois? Merci
The main base wood is 17" (43.18cm) long, 3"(7.62cm) wide, 3.25"(8.255cm) tall. The small piece on the back is 3"(7.62cm) wide by 2.25"(5.715cm) tall. It sticks out from the base .25" (.635cm). Hope this helps!
@@LTDWoodworks Thanks very much
I would have gone with Kumiko....
Good guess! Guess you've now seen what I actually made with it? If not, it was a 1000 piece cutting board. Thanks for watching!
Why would you move your fence with each cut without the jig? Isn't your work piece supposed to be against the fence?
That’s the point of this jig. It’s so you don’t have to move the fence each time. This way the cut pieces are exactly the same width every cut. This jig acts as the fence, it just moves as you cut. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching 👍
@@LTDWoodworks Thanks for the reply. I mean though wouldn't your fence stay in the same place (say 1/8") if your work piece is between the fence and blade? then you keep cutting new strips from the discard piece. The problem would just be in pushing it through. Maybe it's not possible without the jig?
I'm trying to cut 1/2" x 1 1/2" strips from a 2x4. It will be fine with just a push stick until I get to a square input piece of wood. Then there may be a tendency for it to flip over. What kind of jig would you suggest for that?
Ah, gotcha. In that scenario I would say that's too dangerous. Trying to push a 1/8" thick piece of wood pass the blade would just be too hard even with a push stick, etc.
First question would be how long of a piece are you try to cut as well? I would say the one issue with the jig in this video is the length of a cut that it can safely make. It's around 17" to 20" max. For me I would say that if your total length is longer and the thickness is your 1/2" thick by 1 1/2" thick, it would be ok to use just your fence with a push stick. So no jig needed. If the length happens to be shorter than the 20" then using the jig would be a safer route to go.
Simple jig.
Yep! Thanks for watching!
I have built 12 strip wood canoes an kayaks if you need help!
That would be a much future project for me but a very cool one👍 The project I made with this jig was a 1000 piece cutting board. Check out the video!👍
What machine is that at 01:19 ?
Thanks
That was my older Delta wood jointer. I sold that one to get a slightly bigger one though. It makes a flat surface along one edge of wood. If you have any other questions just let me know. Thanks for watching!
I’m guessing a lattice fence
Nope, it was for a 1000 piece cutting board I did for reaching 1000 subscribers. Check out the video if ya want 👍
The link to the previous video links to this video :)
1000 thin strips? Kumiko?
Nice guess. It was for a 1000 piece cutting board that I made to celebrate reaching 1000 subscribers. Check out the video 👍 Thanks for watching 👍
Kumiko😊
Nice guess👍 But no, is was a 1000 piece cutting board. Check out that video 👍
That's an awesome idea, but if you have to cut 999 times to get 1000 pieces and your kerf size is .125 (1/8"), that's a lot of saw dust (waste).
Yep, you’re absolutely right. But the table saw blade leaves a much smoother surface as opposed to a band saw blade. I didn’t want to have to sand all that much. It was a one off project so oh well.
@@LTDWoodworks I watched that following this, that was pretty slick, 1000 piece cutting board. I'm a hobbyist and just getting into woodwork so I don't know all the ins and outs and don't own all the gear, just watching some videos to get some ideas. Take care!
Sounds good. Let me know if you ever have any questions. Thanks for watching!👍
Curious why you couldn’t just set your fence at that thin distance from the blade and run your piece along the fence?
It’s because it’s not easy or safe to push a thin piece past the blade. If you were to just push the main piece through the blade and once the thin piece is free of the main portion it would stop between the spinning blade and the fence. While it’s stopped there it also as a HIGH chance of being shot back towards you if you’re standing behind the blade (which you should try not to do anyways). So, this method is also about safety. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah I guess that does make sense. Could you also put a stop block against the fence and use the miter gauge? That way you’re repeatable and accurate but the thin off cut isn’t binding ?
@@GK-ee7mw Yep, I think that would work just fine 👍
kind of cool, but not safe. you are applying tons of pressure with your left hand towards the blade. cool in theory, though!
How would 2 fingers apply tons of pressure?
@@pablor3138 because the fingers usually have body weight behind them? Is that a real question?
@@numerousactuary6640 didn't know you could apply more than 900kg in force with your fingers.
Why the piece of wood at the end when all u do is cut it off??
That’s just where it’s being cut to size for the thickness of strip that I was going to cut.
It still sticks out 1/8” in my case. It’s not flush with the large piece of wood.
So its not really needed?
It is needed. That 1/8" of wood that sticks out in my case is actually what pushes the wood thru as you are pushing the whole jig. 1/8" because that's how thick the thin strips I wanted were. If it was not there or just flush there would be nothing to push the wood forward. Hope that helps.
1000 pieces? Strip wood canoe?
Nope, that’s a popular guess though. Check out my other video on the 1000 piece cutting board 👍
Great jig! Also, I noticed your excellent platform set up for your drill press. I'm going to adopt (steal actually) this design for mine and my Dad's! Will credit you and show your video to him. He's going to love it. Going to use knobs instead since his hands are getting pretty bad.
Thanks! For the drill press table I have actually built a new one that works much better! Be sure to check out my build video on it. It has T-Tracks with knob operated hold downs for the work pieces so you can be hands free. And it has built it dust collection! Thanks for watching!
Watch your fingers. I know. I lost one
Yes, the table saw is definitely the most dangerous tool in the shop. I "try" to be aware of what I'm doing at all times by using what I call the most important tool in the shop which is the brain. I will never say that it (brain) gets used like it's supposed to but I at least try. A SawStop Saw is on my list. This will at the very least help when my brain doesn't work and I do something very stupid. Stay safe everyone!
@@LTDWoodworks I just ordered my SawStop this week. It will be shipped in 40 days
Nice! Did you order mine too?! When should I expect it?!😉😆
A wooden armor suit lol
That would be awesome! Great answer 👍 It was for the 1000 piece cutting board so check out that video too!👍
@@LTDWoodworks Right after submitting my answer I seen the link to the finished project pretty badass cutting board
@@qvo3426 Thank you!
1000 pieces for a trellis???
Nope, good guess. They were for a 1000 piece cutting board. Check out my other video on its build👍 Thanks for watching!